@@taylorrose9923 I agree but some of the points were helpful to me. I tweaked my cage a few times after getting my bird until I got it how I liked it. 🙂
Very nice video! I am training my parakeet for an outdoor flight. parakeets are great because 1. They can talk 2. They like being held 3. Easy to train 4. Easy to breed 5. They come in many colours 6. Easy to tell gender 7. And easy to tell age.
+Budgie Parakeet Tv A budgie can still be happy alone if you're able to spend a lot of time with him/her and can keep him/her active and well-stimulated both mentally and physically.
I agree with you. Lexy, my budgie, used to live in a large flock and when he moved into my home by himself, he seemed sad and lonely. This is why I got him a friend budgie, and they are both really happy now.
Good, helpful video. The only thing I would point out is that this cage is very, very extremely small for a bird which was born to fly in the wild. I recommend getting a flight cage no less than 60cm X 60cm and letting your budgie out for 1-3 hours each day, but if you don't have that much room and get a smaller cage, make sure your budgie is out of-cage very often.
Yep, larger cages are better, but smaller cages are okay if they are let out all the time. My birds are spoilt as they have large cages but are let out all the time anyway :)
hello do you or would you do a tutorial on how to keep budgies warm in the winter?.Signs of if they are cold, space heaters, etc. Im a first time owner. specific instructions would be awesome.
budgies come from the open deserts of australia, so they are used to cold temperatures at night. However, it is a good idea to keep their environment at a constant temperature if possible without too much temperature fluctuation. eg: I have an electric heater on a thermostat that keeps my room temperature at around 20 celcius.
I know what he meant. It's my first pet in the house and I am not ready for a more complicated pet. Once I get used to take care of this one, I'll get something that needs more cleaning and washing, and walking and training
When you say Budgies have to be out for an hour or two everyday, does that mean I constantly have to play with them? Can I do my homework while having the budgie roam the room?
hiiii! i know im late but budgies actually need to be out longer the one to two hours. you dont have to be playing with them the whole time but you do have to have something for them to do💛
@@Jay_Loc AT LEAST, the bigger the better :D, also, its better if the cage is longer than height, so it's a more horizontal rectangle. Considering budgies dont fly directly upwards
@@yikes4501 tsk...the lady at the pet store chose the cage for me tho and its tall instead...I was gonna buy the what they call finch cage since it seems more suitable but she say it's not since budgies likes height and climbing...they're mostly on the wooden perches now...I need to go buy string perch tho...but it's a bit too crowded and I dont want them to poop over their food and water...tsk
this is very helpful, but i would like it a lot more if the actual products shown was in the description, because i still don't know the names and prices of these products.
Yeah dude...bought my cage for 94...or 95 with tax...it was not good for my wallet...but I sorta regret not buying or seeing a bigger cage since even tho the one I have is tall...its not good for the birds much...
Since i do have a bigger bird. I would use natural branches from pet stores a way bigger cage and way more toys. Birds also need allot of time out of the cage to fly around.
*IMPORTANT WARNING FOR PET BIRD OWNERS* : The food that we normally give to the canaries (and other companion birds) consisting of a "complete, balanced and top-quality seeds mixture" bought in pet stores or malls, makes the owners trust that their pet is well fed, but it's not so: indeed the health of the pets is at imminent and serious risk. The owners of canaries, parrots, cockatoos, parakeets, cockatiels, etc., WE MUST PAY ATTENTION TO DOMESTIC BIRD BREEDERS AND VETS and keep in mind that although we feed them with such a typical seeds mixture, our birds are very likely in danger of suffering an unexpected, painful and practically inevitable PREMATURE DEATH BY FATTY LIVER DISEASE. Canaries, for example, will surely die at 4 - 6 years of age of the more than 14 that they can live. It's sad that pet birds are fated to die early and painfully in so many cases. You have to warn people to avoid it! This deadly disease is very common in pet birds but owners usually don’t know or detect it in time. And we can’t imagine that *THE CAUSE IS IN THE FOOD ITSELF* that we provide to our birds, in which such *a typical mixture contains low-fat seeds such as canary seed together with other VERY fatty seeds such as niger, hemp or nabine and, in addition, the birds usually prefer to eat the fatty seeds* so that their REAL DIET is unbalanced by excessive fat, gradually causes the fatty infiltration of the liver and in a few years causes fatty liver hepatitis and PREMATURE DEATH to pet birds. *Also the breeding paste and its pigments and the sunflower seeds can attack the liver* if they are taken too much or for too long. It's a cruel disease that progresses silently and, when its unexpected symptoms begin, they are easily confused with other ailments so the owners usually postpone the visit to the vet at a time already critical for the life of the bird (besides that not all vets are trained to recognize this elusive and misleading disease, even to administer lipotropic and regenerative liver protectors in curative doses, just in case it's that and not a supposed blow). It's a process of slow and asymptomatic progression, but when their visible symptoms begin (acute phase) the disease accelerates. *SYMPTOMS OF THE ACUTE PHASE OF FATTY LIVER DISEASE* : First, emotional decay or progressive lack of interest, hard belly (in many cases, with a dark spot with a half-moon shape on the belly, which seems a "tumor", to see it you have to wet your fingers to remove the down), falls from the sticks of the cage that seem for "errors of calculation" and then lameness (that make believe that they are by the previous falls, but both symptoms are due to that it hurts the liver), lack of flight and singing, the bird fluffs up his feathers or bends more or less slowly; Then, within a few weeks or a few days, forced breathing with open beak, remaining lying on the floor of the cage near the food, sudden spasms from time to time (which make people believe that the bird is "epileptic" but it are twinges of pain of diseased liver), abundant greenish stools (caused by biliverdin which if it's not fasting, it means hepatic harm), then black and watery (from hepatic hemorrhages), then a strange purplish color of skin and beak, an excessive appetite and the final "improvement" of a few days (in the last phase, the already degenerated liver becomes deflated by what seems to ameliorate), after which it suddenly dies among seizures (which may seem a heart infarct). For the first symptoms the liver has already degenerated to 80% and only an urgent (and accurate) vet action can save your bird and revert the liver situation. If you simply feed your bird with the loose seeds mixture (even if you give it fresh fruits, vegetables and let it exercise, for example by letting it out of the cage at home), right now your pet's liver is degenerating, and neither you nor your bird know. *Without liver protectors, it's almost certain that your bird will die early and in many cases you won’t be able to determine its real cause* . Hepatic lipidosis it's not only deadly by itself when the visible symptoms begin (sometimes even it does not warn at all until few moments before the death). Even before the acute phase it predisposes the bird to suffer infections, as it weakens the immune system. Obese pet birds have an higher risk of many other diseases, like arthritis, heart disease and cancer. Obesity in birds it's not so apparent but it's more dangerous than in other animals like mammals. So in addition to giving to the birds lipotropic and detox / regenerating hepatic protectors preventively and routinely, breeders usually make their own mixtures with low fat seeds. *PREVENTION AND/OR TREATMENT* : The time to act is NOW that your pet doesn’t have yet the visible symptoms. It's necessary to ACTIVELY PREVENT THE LIVER DEGENERATION. Fortunately it's easy to do it: *It's very advisable to substitute progressively (within some weeks, as per the instructions of the manufacturer) the mixture of loose seeds for some pellets compound food of seeds, fruits and vegetables (preferably those that already include liver protectors), because this prevents the bird from filtering and eating mostly the fatty seeds (but without insisting if the bird does not get accustomed to eating pellets because he could die for starvation within a few days)* . *And, whatever the diet, it's CRUCIAL to add to the drinking water or to the food a LIPOTROPIC LIVER PROTECTOR that includes carnitine and / or choline, betaine, methionine, etc., (and it's very convenient to add a DETOX / REGENERATING LIVER PROTECTOR with thistle milk, boldo, artichoke extract)* . Liver protectors are not medicine but cheap food supplements manufactured by pet bird vet laboratories that remove the fat from the liver, clean it and favor its recovery. It's essential to add them to the pet birds diet to conserve their liver. It's something that professionals as breeders and vets know, but we the owners usually don't know. It are appearing in the market compound feed for pet birds that don’t include fatty seeds and that already include several liver protectors. But *the vast majority of owners still confidently feed their birds with the typical mixture of loose seeds with little fat and other very fatty seeds... And their birds continue dying of hepatic lipidosis in a large number of cases (likely, in most cases)* . Now we know that, as fatty liver disease develops from the daily food itself, it’s most likely THE FIRST CAUSE OF DEATH OF PET BIRDS, and more so as the bird ages. Webs on FLD: www.beautyofbirds.com/liverdisease.html Liver disease is a slow, on-going progressive disease where the liver tissue is replaced with fat. When the liver disease has progressed, the bird may suddenly appear ill. www.lovinghands.com/forms/Hepatic%20Lipidosis%20-%20Fatty%20Liver%20Disease.pdf One of the sadder diseases many avian vets see is that of hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease. It's sad in a number of ways since often the birds are very ill, life-threateningly so, or possibly having died suddenly. Often the owners have been unaware of the dangers of feeding their beloved pet the seeds, peanuts, or other fatty foods the bird obviously loves to eat. These are truly cases of "loving your bird to death". Any bird can fall victim to fatty liver disease. www.researchgate.net/publication/46105643_Treating_liver_disease_in_the_avian_patient Dietary deficiencies of lipotrophic factors such as choline, biotin, and methionine may decrease the transport of lipids from the liver. www.veterinaria.org/revistas/redvet/n111110B/111004B.pdf The clinical manifestations of hepatic diseases in ornamental birds are much more frequent than people could imagine and in many cases they are not appreciated, progress in a silent way and when they are evident, vet action may (usually) arrive late. Most any avian symptomatology should be considered as if it were a pathology that could be serious, and not allow the disease to develop because then it will probably be too late. We must closely investigate the symptoms, take preventive measures that don’t harm (such as giving liver and intestinal protectors according to the leaflet) ask for advice from vets, breeders, etc. and procure the most appropriate treatment RAPIDLY, but without rushing in the treatment or with the doses in such small animals. If the days go by and the bird doesn’t improve, it's necessary to continue investigating and, if necessary, change the medication in an informed and contrasted manner. Doing nothing or stopping research usually ends up with the bird dead, but acting without being sure of what is done and in what dose, it likely ends the same way. It's necessary to obtain and confirm the sufficient vet experience and have the serenity to determine in each case whether it's convenient to hasten to do and / or administer what medicine and in what dose, or if it’s better not to do and let the situation evolve without medicating for the time being, or according to the medication that has already been administered. A limp in a bird is not always an injury caused by a blow, but the symptom of a disease of some organ (usually the liver or an intestinal disease) that needs to be discovered and treated ASAP. When in doubt, change diet to one with the lowest fat possible (only birdseed, or with other low-fat seeds such as millet, chia, fresh fruits and vegetables) and administer lipotropic and regenerating liver protectors in curative doses immediately... although nothing could foresee a fatal outcome. There are also food supplements protectors of the intestinal mucosa and stimulants of the immune system. In doses according to the leaflets do not cause damage, it will surely save the life of your bird (if it's not too late), and will keep them with a basic wellness.
@@Blue_Oceanic The most important thing to avoid or to cure the fatty liver disease it's to include routinely and preventively into the birds diet the LIPOTROPIC liver protectors for pet birds. Normally a few drops in their drinking water, with the doses and frequency as per the instructions of the manufacturer, the pet bird vet laboratory; While, the detox / regenerating liver protectors are quite advisable. Yes, pellets are better than loose seeds mixtures, because this way the bird can't filter and eat mostly the fatty seeds. But there are brands of loose seeds mixtures for pet birds which already include liver protectors, as well. *To accustom the birds to eating food compounds pellets (preferably those which already include liver protectors) instead of loose seeds, first you have to mix the two types of food in the same feeder. Then you gradually, within some weeks, increase the quantity of the new type of food as well as decreasing the proportion of loose seeds (as per the manufacturer instructions).* Regarding specific brands of healthy pet birds food (both, loose seeds mixtures, or pellets, including several liver protectors), just read the composition of each brand of food for pet birds available in your country, and confirm that it contain the liver protectors I mention in my main comment above (and also below in this comment). *Normally the birds eat the food compound and they like it, but it also may happen that the birds don't get accustomed to eat pellets; If this is the case, don't insist on that the bird should eat the pellets at any cost, because the bird could die for starvation (the smaller the bird, the sooner it may die for this cause. A canary could die in just 1 or 2 days without food and/or water).* *It's necessary, both: 1) to offer to the bird an ample variety of healthy food appropriated to the specific bird species (loose seeds, pellets, vegetables, not sweet fruits, some cereals, etc.) and let the bird to choose what to eat. And 2) to include routinely into the bird's diet the liprotopic and regenerating liver protectors.* You also can make your own loose low-fat seeds mixtures, as indeed most breeders do. Some seeds pet birds eat: LOW FAT SEEDS: - Birdseed. - Thistle. - Chia. - Foxtail millet (sold normally on branch). - Quinoa (sold separately) - Perilla. The great "invention" of fatty seeds is the white perilla. This one, unlike the other fatty seeds does not damage the liver nor the intestine. It can be supplied in winter for pet birds to better resist the winter low temperatures, but don't give too much because it makes our birds fat. It can replace rapeseed and flaxseed. HIGH FAT SEEDS: - Sunflower seeds (the most fatty seed, be most careful with this one as it heavily damages the liver; or, still better, DON'T give them to your birds). - Hemp (also very careful with this one as administered in excess causes liver damage). - Nabine (can damage the liver and create indigestion). - Niger seed. - Flaxseed. - Rapeseed. There are videos in UA-cam of breeders explaining the proportions of the different seeds they use to make their loose seeds mixtures. So, *whatever the food (loose seeds mixture or pellets of compound food), it's ESSENTIAL to include into their diet the specifically developed liver protectors (specially the LIPOTROPIC ones but it's quite advisable the detox/regenerating), by administering a few drops in the drinking water (as per the respective leaflets), to keep the birds with a basic wellness and their liver clean of fat, for avoiding the covert, misleading and deadly FLD.* This is BASIC info every pet bird owner should get at first when getting a birb, as this disease it's caused by the food these animals eat... Sadly, pet stores normally don't say it! *Liver protectors are not medicine but cheap, necessary food supplements manufactured by pet bird vet laboratories all around the world precisely for this purpose of preventing and/or curing the hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease.* *LIPOTROPIC LIVER PROTECTORS:* Those food supplements containing some or several of the following: carnitine, choline, betaine, methionine, lysine, biotine, etc. *DETOX / REGENERATING LIVER PROTECTORS:* The ones which contain: thistle milk, boldo, artichoke extract. You should go to your favorite pet shop or vet office to ask them what lipotropic and detox liver protectors brands for pet birds are available in your country. Also, you can buy them online. Just search in Google or in your favorite web search engine by the keywords "liver protectors for pet birds" or "lipotropic liver protectors for pet birds" and "detox liver protectors for pet birds" and (fortunately) one gets lots of results.
@Orchid Flock You are right. Indeed, several avian vets and canary breeders in UA-cam spontaneously confirmed this and so congratulated me. My comment above is the summary of several months of careful study and testing with veterinarians, breeders and gathering scattered information on the Internet, on the most common cause of premature death in pet birds: fatty liver hepatitis. I carried out this study on the occasion of the unexpected death of our affectionate, very intelligent, communicative and much loved orange canary, at only 3 years of age. Yes, the general vet misdiagnosed him because he thought his limp would surely be a blow (we let him fly freely around the house), since he had no wings or broken legs and he was a young bird. This is the BASIC information that all owners should first obtain when purchasing a pet bird. Unfortunately pet stores don't usually say this. Therefore, I put this information in many videos, to alert people about it and try to avoid these unexpected but very common situations. I am glad that now your birds will also avoid the most common disease, as well as covert, deceptive and DEADLY, and they will remain well-being throughout their life expectancy. Please also spread the word offline to your neighbors, friends, etc., and let's save more birds from dying in this sad way. 👍👍
I stared laughing so hard when he bugies as starter pets and good for people who are not home it’s pretty much the exact opposite in realty🤦🏽♀️ please do proper research on birds and avoid videos that give wrong info
Hey, I bought a budgie pair this Monday. Owner suggested us that tgey are not tamed and not to take them out at least one week. Butd it looks like they really looking for coming out and struggling so hard to be inside. Can you please suggest what should I do
I have a question I was having 2 male budgies in a cage and they fight all the time but one day at morning I found that one of them which was smaller budgie was screaming and he can't stand and after some while he died so I want to know that second budgie have killed him. Can a budgie kill another budgie in the same cage?? and if yes then how????? please give answer
XxPARROT SQUADxX No, it is RECOMMENDED to have only MALE budgies live together. Females with males will breed and 2 females often fight. To answer the question above, you knew they were fighting, why did you not separate them? It's unlikely that 2 males fight. Did you have one longer than the other? If so, maybe you did not introduce them properly. And yes, they will fight when threatened.
Hi i have a question how often do budgies pee and when you let the budgie fly in your room do they poop everywhere also can you potty train your budgie and do they make noise at night
Hello I need some help with budgies so mine died last night around 11-3 am but I'm getting a new one or two but should I get 2 or 1 because I will be in school 7-4 so should I have 2 cockatiels right by the cage typically so will 1 or 2 work???
Thats great that you rehomed budgies! This isnt my video but I used this same method to tame my budgies and it worked really well! You can find it here : ua-cam.com/video/n_41yhF9fg0/v-deo.html It will take longer with all of them in one cage so you might want to put them in different cages for the taming process. Hope this helps!
Hi, what do you mean that budgies need to be kept out one to two hours a day? Do you mean out of their cage? If so, then do you mean indoors or outdoors? Plus how do you you get them back in the cage?
Hello stranger scrolling through the comments seeds are treats not food they are very high in fat, that cage in the vid is too small, don’t put a spray millet in the cage it is a treat, I don’t recommend getting that thing that you put in your birds water cuz it barley works I don’t have a budgie yet but I know this stuff from a year of researching have a nice day 😊
They don't usually eat a lot of the paper and even if they do, it's small enough to be digested without issue. Most newspapers use soy-based inks now, which are safer. We do not recommend using cedar wood shavings ever as they contain harmful vapors which can cause respiratory issues in pets.
I was thinking about getting a bird like a budgie and I was thinking am I able to just get one because I feel like it would be easier for me sense me and my family have never owned birds, also I was wondering I have school for 6 hours 8-2 so would it be a smart idea for me to just leave the budgie in the cage with toys, food, water, etc and when I get home let him/she out of the cage for about 3-4 hours? Because I do a lot of sports that require me to wake up early so I might not be able to let him/she out of the cage for a long time in the mornings. Would all of this be ok?
DHRUV SHARMA it depends on you. Cockatiels are cuddly and sweet, very similar to budgies. Though Tiels require more out time and get attached to you very easily.
I’ve been planning on getting a budgie ever since I saw a baby one with blue and yellow feathers when I went on holiday. One question, is there anything such as a too big of a cage. The cage I’ve been planning on is 175 + cm tall ( without stand) and is a three story cage. I’m only really planning on getting one for a start as I’ve had reptiles in the past and only owned one at a time and maybe further on of owning a bird but I’m worried about it getting lonely or depressed.
Imagine.corbyn .m.besson The bigger the cage is the better! Our cage is about 45 inches without the shelf and I still want a bigger one 😁 Just make sure to put a few ladders and different types of perches so he can get around well. Rope, branches and other natural wood ones they sell online or at the pet store are great. But It is recommended to have at least 2.. you could get one now and have him bond with you, and then get another later on. Just make sure he has plenty of toys and gets lots of attention every day ☺️
I don’t really know inches but I’ll do what I can, a basic budgie cage should be at least 60 centimeters wide and 70 tall (this is the bare minimum mind you, the bigger the better). The diet has to consist of many types of greens, veggies, premium pellets and very few seeds, I highly recommend a few channels on youtube like Birdtricks, Elleandthebirds, salvador budgie, flying fids and a few others. And please please PLEASE do your own research from dated, reputable websites ran by people who know what they’re doing. VERY IMPORTANT! Do not EVER listen to the advice from pet stores, especially big chain stores like petco and petsmart
So you we saying they need to be washed daily, it's that a necessity every day, ? I do have a spray bottle I can use. Also got my calcium bell a few toys, perches a small house and a mix. Of budgie crumble and millet seed, think I'm set.
Shaun Burgess its better when they have a bath on there own! But the bathes you can buy are usually too small (they can't spread their wings) just use a flat bowl with water
Shaun Burgess I don't think they don't need a bath/shower every day.. they do a pretty good job at keeping themselves clean. We use a spray bottle and bird bath only a couple times a week
My aunt wants to get a bird as a companion pet but she doesn't know which one! she is a beginner and she wants a small or medium sized bird! Like a cockatiel or a budgie! Does anyone know what type of bird she should get? Thank you🙂
get a budgie. they're smaller so make less noise/ mess (but still require plenty of love and care). my nan had a male budgie for twelve years and he made a great pet :D
Jaida Kaya not to sound rude but his cage is way too small! The biggest one you can afford is best, so they can have plenty of toys and different types of perches
Hello, thank you for the video! I'm planning to have soon 2 Budgies but for now i'm just preparing... I'm looking for a cage but it's hard to find a cage in the size that is recommend for 2 birds ( I'm from a small town)... what is the size of this cage from the video?
『 Memory-gacha』:3 YT yeah budgies need more time out of the cage my birds are out all day on their stand with toys on it and they go to my room and different stands budgies need way more attention than what this guy said
+Eric Shiver One budgies will feel lonely but will learn to talk English easier. Two budgies will entertain eachother, stay pretty happy, BUT they may never learn to talk English. I got two budgies, I'm still a fairly new owner. Mine are I think about 3 months old now. Still haven't said any words except tweeting and squawking at each other. But they are very happy. Before when I only had one I could tell it was lonely, scared, and didn't want to interact with anyone.
+Eric Shiver it depends how much time you have to spend with them each day. If you have lots of time to spend with them, one is usually fine. Having two may keep them more entertained while you're not around, but they will likely bond to each other, making it somewhat harder to tame them.
Do NOT use those dishes for seed. You will have seed shells everywhere in your house. Use the clear box with the perch inside that contains the seed shells after. They are fairly cheap and will change your life if you have these birds. Also these birds are not a piece of cake. They are very sensitive to food, smells, sound, and being handled to roughly. Also if you put a box in the cage you will have baby's and tho that sounds awesome it is a huge thing to take on. Be smart. Please
I’m going to correct the cage setup. There should be any dowel perches, they are dangerous for the feet. The toys should be a little bigger and better spread out. The bowls should have a little door so you don’t have to reach into the cage everyday and freak out the bird.
This looks like a decent size. And the budgie should be happy, providing they are well loved :) It is handy to have a size that works well for transporting too.
This cage would be the minimum size we would recommend for 2 budgies if you play with them a lot. If you can provide more space, that is always better.
Kenzie Atkins In my opinion, this cage is too small for even one :-( but the biggest you can afford is best. They need lots of room for toys and different types of perches too!
*IMPORTANT WARNING FOR PET BIRD OWNERS:* The food that we normally give to the canaries (and other companion birds) consisting of a "complete, balanced and top-quality seeds mixture" bought in pet stores or malls, makes the owners trust that their pet is well fed, but it's not so: indeed the birds health is at serious risk. The owners of canaries, parrots, cockatoos, budgies, cockatiels, etc., WE MUST PAY ATTENTION TO DOMESTIC BIRD BREEDERS AND VETS and keep in mind that although we feed them with such a typical seeds mixture, our birds are very likely in danger of suffering an unexpected, painful and practically inevitable PREMATURE DEATH BY FATTY LIVER DISEASE. Canaries, for example, will surely die at 4 - 7 years of age of the more than 14 that they can live. It's sad that pet birds are fated to die early and painfully in so many cases. You have to warn people to avoid it! This deadly disease is very common in pet birds but owners usually don’t know or detect it in time. And we can’t imagine that *THE CAUSE IS IN THE FOOD ITSELF* that we provide to our birds, in which such *a typical mixture contains low-fat seeds such as canary seed together with other VERY fatty seeds such as niger, hemp or nabine and, in addition, the birds usually prefer to eat the fatty seeds* so that their REAL DIET is unbalanced by excessive fat, gradually causes the fatty infiltration of the liver and in a few years causes fatty liver hepatitis and PREMATURE DEATH to pet birds. *Also the fruits and specially the breeding paste and its pigments and THE SUNFLOWER SEEDS can attack the liver* if they are taken too much or for too long. It's a cruel disease that progresses silently and, when its unexpected symptoms begin, they are easily confused with other ailments so the owners usually postpone the visit to the vet at a time already critical for the life of the bird (besides that not all vets are trained to recognize this elusive and misleading disease, even to administer lipotropic and regenerative liver protectors in curative doses, just in case it's that and not a supposed blow). It's a process of slow and asymptomatic progression, but when their visible symptoms begin (acute phase) the disease accelerates. *SYMPTOMS OF THE ACUTE PHASE OF FATTY LIVER DISEASE:* First, progressive sadness and/or pecking, overgrowth of beak and nails, hard belly (in many cases, with a dark spot with a half-moon shape on the belly, which seems a "tumor", to see it you have to wet your fingers to remove the down), falls from the sticks of the cage that seem for "errors of calculation" and then lameness (that make believe that they are by the previous falls, but both symptoms are due to that it hurts the liver), lack of flight and singing, the bird fluffs up his feathers or bends more or less slowly; Then, within a few weeks or a few days, heavy breathing with open beak, remaining lying on the floor of the cage near the food, sudden spasms from time to time (which make people believe that the bird is "epileptic" but it are twinges of pain of diseased liver), abundant greenish poop (caused by biliverdin which if it's not fasting, it means hepatic harm), then black and watery (from hepatic hemorrhages), then a strange purplish color of skin and beak, an excessive appetite and the final "improvement" of a few days (in the last phase, the already degenerated liver becomes deflated by what the bird seems to ameliorate), after which it suddenly dies among seizures (which may seem a "heart infarct" or a "stroke"). For the first symptoms the liver has already degenerated to 80% and only an urgent (and accurate) vet action can save your bird and revert the liver situation. If you simply feed your bird with the loose seeds mixture (even if you give it fresh fruits, vegetables and let it exercise, for example by letting it out of the cage at home), right now your pet's liver is degenerating, and neither you nor your bird know. *Without liver protectors, it's almost certain that your bird will die early and in many cases you won’t be able to determine its real cause.* Hepatic lipidosis it's not only deadly by itself when the visible symptoms begin (sometimes even it does not warn at all until few moments before the death). Even before the acute phase it predisposes the bird to suffer infections, as it weakens the immune system. Obese pet birds have an higher risk of many other diseases, like arthritis, heart disease and cancer. Obesity in birds it's not so apparent but it's more dangerous than in other animals like mammals. So in addition to giving to the birds lipotropic and detox / regenerating hepatic protectors preventively and routinely, breeders usually make their own mixtures with low fat seeds. *PREVENTION AND/OR TREATMENT:* The time to act is NOW that your bird doesn’t have yet the visible symptoms. It's necessary to ACTIVELY PREVENT THE LIVER DEGENERATION. Fortunately it's easy to do it: *It's very advisable to substitute progressively (within some weeks, as per the instructions of the manufacturer) the mixture of loose seeds for some pellets compound food of seeds, fruits and vegetables (preferably those that already include liver protectors), because this prevents the bird from filtering and eating mostly the fatty seeds (but without insisting if the bird does not get accustomed to eating pellets because he could die for starvation within a few days).* *And, whatever the diet, it's CRUCIAL to add to the drinking water or to the food a LIPOTROPIC LIVER PROTECTOR that includes carnitine and / or choline, betaine, methionine, etc., (and it's very convenient to add a DETOX / REGENERATING LIVER PROTECTOR with thistle milk, boldo, artichoke extract).* Liver protectors are not medicine but cheap food supplements manufactured by pet bird vet laboratories that remove the fat from the liver, clean it and favor its recovery. It's essential to add them to the pet birds diet to conserve their liver. It's something that breeders and vets know, but we the owners usually don't know. It are appearing in the market compound feed for pet birds that don’t include fatty seeds and that already include several liver protectors. *But the vast majority of owners still confidently feed their birds with the typical mixture of loose seeds with little fat and other very fatty seeds... And their birds continue dying for hepatic lipidosis in a large number of cases (likely, in most cases).* Now we know that, as fatty liver disease develops from the daily food itself, it’s most likely THE FIRST CAUSE OF DEATH OF PET BIRDS, and more so as the bird ages. Webs on FLD: www.beautyofbirds.com/liverdisease.html Liver disease is a slow, on-going progressive disease where the liver tissue is replaced with fat. When the liver disease has progressed, the bird may suddenly appear ill. www.lovinghands.com/forms/Hepatic%20Lipidosis%20-%20Fatty%20Liver%20Disease.pdf One of the sadder diseases many avian vets see is that of hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease. It's sad in a number of ways since often the birds are very ill, life-threateningly so, or possibly having died suddenly. Often the owners have been unaware of the dangers of feeding their beloved pet the seeds, peanuts, or other fatty foods the bird obviously loves to eat. These are truly cases of "loving your bird to death". Any bird can fall victim to fatty liver disease. www.researchgate.net/publication/46105643_Treating_liver_disease_in_the_avian_patient Dietary deficiencies of lipotrophic factors such as choline, biotin, and methionine may decrease the transport of lipids from the liver. www.veterinaria.org/revistas/redvet/n111110B/111004B.pdf The clinical manifestations of hepatic diseases in ornamental birds are much more frequent than people could imagine and in many cases they are not appreciated, progress in a silent way and when they are evident, vet action may arrive late. Most any avian symptomatology should be considered as if it was a pathology that could be serious, and not allow the disease to develop because then it will probably be too late. We must closely investigate the symptoms, take preventive measures that don’t harm (such as giving liver and intestinal protectors according to the leaflet) ask for advice from vets, breeders, etc. and procure the most appropriate treatment RAPIDLY, but without rushing in the treatment or with the doses in such small animals. If the days go by and the bird doesn’t improve, it's necessary to continue investigating and, if necessary, change the medication in an informed and contrasted manner. Doing nothing or stopping research usually ends up with the bird dead, but acting without being sure of what is done and in what dose, it likely ends the same way. It's necessary to obtain and confirm the sufficient vet experience and have the serenity to determine in each case whether it's convenient to hasten to do and / or administer what medicine and in what dose, or if it’s better not to do and let the situation evolve without medicating for the time being, or according to the medication that has already been administered. A limp in a bird is not always an injury caused by a blow, but the symptom of a disease of some organ (usually the liver or an intestinal disease) that needs to be discovered and treated ASAP. When in doubt, change diet to one with the lowest fat possible (only birdseed, or with other low-fat seeds such as millet, chia and vegetables) and administer lipotropic and regenerating liver protectors in curative doses immediately... although nothing could foresee a fatal outcome. There are also food supplements protectors of the intestinal mucosa and stimulants of the immune system. In doses according to the leaflets do not cause damage, it will surely save the life of your bird (if it's not too late), and will keep them with a basic wellness.
+Angela zhao-grande Sorry about the late reply! For bedding/litter you have several options: paper/paper towel, gravel paper (this is a good one), or a recycled paper bedding such as Carefresh.
My left ear really enjoyed this.
Thanks for the info
Haha, yeah same.
nospamful same 😂
well, my left earring is broken, only right one is working, seems like no info for me :(
nospamful same but with my right
nospamful I K r it's only the left ear XD
Hello person scrolling through the comments! Have a good day/night!
Thanks! You too!😁
Quantum’s PG3D thanks bro
Quantum’s PG3D thanks :DDD
are you still alive
Don't know why i'm still scrolling, the left ear comment is as the top
I'm considering getting a budgie and this was very helpful. Thanks!
Me too
Harper M did you get it??
@@kota7366 lmaooo
Harper This cage set up is actually very bad. Any type of bird needs much more space and toys. Please dont use this vid as a guid.! 😊
@@taylorrose9923 I agree but some of the points were helpful to me. I tweaked my cage a few times after getting my bird until I got it how I liked it. 🙂
Very nice video! I am training my parakeet for an outdoor flight. parakeets are great because
1. They can talk
2. They like being held
3. Easy to train
4. Easy to breed
5. They come in many colours
6. Easy to tell gender
7. And easy to tell age.
Bill - Nature for 1 it can be difficult to get them to do that but it is possible
1,3,7.. nope
King Satan most budgies don't like to be held...depends on the bird
You can easily tame budgies to like being held. If most budgies you know dont like being held, then they have been raised wrongly as a family pet.
every budgie needs a budgie friend. very important !
+Budgie Parakeet Tv A budgie can still be happy alone if you're able to spend a lot of time with him/her and can keep him/her active and well-stimulated both mentally and physically.
+waffleman901 actually you need to have a friend for them
Unless you can play with them for 2 hours per day
watch on my channel how happy they are together. they are active birds :)
I agree with you. Lexy, my budgie, used to live in a large flock and when he moved into my home by himself, he seemed sad and lonely. This is why I got him a friend budgie, and they are both really happy now.
I'm late of course. But not always, it's recommended but u don't have to
Good, helpful video. The only thing I would point out is that this cage is very, very extremely small for a bird which was born to fly in the wild. I recommend getting a flight cage no less than 60cm X 60cm and letting your budgie out for 1-3 hours each day, but if you don't have that much room and get a smaller cage, make sure your budgie is out of-cage very often.
Yep, larger cages are better, but smaller cages are okay if they are let out all the time. My birds are spoilt as they have large cages but are let out all the time anyway :)
Talon Holst the only time my budgie is in his cage is when he’s feeding or sleeping I share an entire room with him
Thank you, my left ear enjoyed this SO MUCH 😂 (not sure for my right ear)
hello do you or would you do a tutorial on how to keep budgies warm in the winter?.Signs of if they are cold, space heaters, etc. Im a first time owner. specific instructions would be awesome.
Felicia Ulmer have you ever considered setting them on fire? It keeps them warm all winter!
budgies come from the open deserts of australia, so they are used to cold temperatures at night. However, it is a good idea to keep their environment at a constant temperature if possible without too much temperature fluctuation. eg: I have an electric heater on a thermostat that keeps my room temperature at around 20 celcius.
Just don't let your house get cold budgies will be fine at room temperature
Hermione Granger fuck off
BomBie Tony Not funny
Does this method work with the right ear?
My budgie died two days ago,i dont what killed him,poisoned food,or cold.I will buy new budgie and take care of him better
I miss him so much :S
+GreatSage Sorry to hear that :(
+GreatSage so sorry for your loss
good luck
Next time make camera closer to the cage because I can't see shit
And you shouldn’t call them starter pets cause after the bird the cost can get up to 400 dollars
ture ture i got mad when he said starter birds
I know what he meant. It's my first pet in the house and I am not ready for a more complicated pet.
Once I get used to take care of this one, I'll get something that needs more cleaning and washing, and walking and training
they actually cost about 26 $ or 25 $ depending on how many colors, how smart they are, and how rare they are.
@@hanenemimoune1245 that’s the price of the bird the right supplies is what jake probably means and also they can go up to 800
True
I need more Connor videos in my life.
Food, Perches and water is not just important IT's absoulutly necesary along with cuddlebone
When you say Budgies have to be out for an hour or two everyday, does that mean I constantly have to play with them? Can I do my homework while having the budgie roam the room?
I think that's fine?...but dont they chew or rip paper tho?
I have budgies and my budgies come out while I do my homework, and they love it, just leave a few toys out and food and water x
Yes because they are very social but just make sure your area is safe for the Budgie
Yes but you should try to have the bird out as much as possible I would say that 3 hours is a minimum!
hiiii! i know im late but budgies actually need to be out longer the one to two hours. you dont have to be playing with them the whole time but you do have to have something for them to do💛
I like how he had to point out that food and water will the the bird hydrated and nourished 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Great video and very helpful. Just got two parakeets yesterday.
Love your store and channel keep it up
CAGE IS TOO SMALL
@@Jay_Loc AT LEAST, the bigger the better :D, also, its better if the cage is longer than height, so it's a more horizontal rectangle. Considering budgies dont fly directly upwards
@@yikes4501 tsk...the lady at the pet store chose the cage for me tho and its tall instead...I was gonna buy the what they call finch cage since it seems more suitable but she say it's not since budgies likes height and climbing...they're mostly on the wooden perches now...I need to go buy string perch tho...but it's a bit too crowded and I dont want them to poop over their food and water...tsk
Itry2rush that isn’t good for a budgie, it should at least be 32 inches long and 28 inches high
Witchtrial
Init and he has no natural perches
My wish is that I forgot I watched this so then I can come back and watch it again for the 48th time!! Love this video!
yeah v beautiful budgies live happy and healthy in such type of environment
My left ear really enjoyed this video👍
this is very helpful, but i would like it a lot more if the actual products shown was in the description, because i still don't know the names and prices of these products.
My sound is working fine!! :)
i have two budgies and my cage costed 72 dollars and adding toys so it costed about 120 dollars
That's pretty cheap
Yeah dude...bought my cage for 94...or 95 with tax...it was not good for my wallet...but I sorta regret not buying or seeing a bigger cage since even tho the one I have is tall...its not good for the birds much...
I've read online that stainless steal bowls are best because they don't get scratched up so that harmful bacteria won't culminate.
PixelBerrry
Accumulate
Destroyer 5000, I looked into the audio and it seems to be working on our end. Are you still having the issue?
can u give me a link plz thnx nice video really helpful:)
A link to this video? ua-cam.com/video/TYh9BdQHO9w/v-deo.html
al hacc you
Since i do have a bigger bird. I would use natural branches from pet stores a way bigger cage and way more toys. Birds also need allot of time out of the cage to fly around.
Hello person scrolling through the comments! Please dont use this vid as a guid for your bird cage! It is very inaccurate! 😟
Ikr
Yes I know
I know do you watch Elle and the birds
*IMPORTANT WARNING FOR PET BIRD OWNERS* : The food that we normally give to the canaries (and other companion birds) consisting of a "complete, balanced and top-quality seeds mixture" bought in pet stores or malls, makes the owners trust that their pet is well fed, but it's not so: indeed the health of the pets is at imminent and serious risk.
The owners of canaries, parrots, cockatoos, parakeets, cockatiels, etc., WE MUST PAY ATTENTION TO DOMESTIC BIRD BREEDERS AND VETS and keep in mind that although we feed them with such a typical seeds mixture, our birds are very likely in danger of suffering an unexpected, painful and practically inevitable PREMATURE DEATH BY FATTY LIVER DISEASE. Canaries, for example, will surely die at 4 - 6 years of age of the more than 14 that they can live.
It's sad that pet birds are fated to die early and painfully in so many cases. You have to warn people to avoid it!
This deadly disease is very common in pet birds but owners usually don’t know or detect it in time. And we can’t imagine that *THE CAUSE IS IN THE FOOD ITSELF* that we provide to our birds, in which such *a typical mixture contains low-fat seeds such as canary seed together with other VERY fatty seeds such as niger, hemp or nabine and, in addition, the birds usually prefer to eat the fatty seeds* so that their REAL DIET is unbalanced by excessive fat, gradually causes the fatty infiltration of the liver and in a few years causes fatty liver hepatitis and PREMATURE DEATH to pet birds.
*Also the breeding paste and its pigments and the sunflower seeds can attack the liver* if they are taken too much or for too long.
It's a cruel disease that progresses silently and, when its unexpected symptoms begin, they are easily confused with other ailments so the owners usually postpone the visit to the vet at a time already critical for the life of the bird (besides that not all vets are trained to recognize this elusive and misleading disease, even to administer lipotropic and regenerative liver protectors in curative doses, just in case it's that and not a supposed blow). It's a process of slow and asymptomatic progression, but when their visible symptoms begin (acute phase) the disease accelerates.
*SYMPTOMS OF THE ACUTE PHASE OF FATTY LIVER DISEASE* : First, emotional decay or progressive lack of interest, hard belly (in many cases, with a dark spot with a half-moon shape on the belly, which seems a "tumor", to see it you have to wet your fingers to remove the down), falls from the sticks of the cage that seem for "errors of calculation" and then lameness (that make believe that they are by the previous falls, but both symptoms are due to that it hurts the liver), lack of flight and singing, the bird fluffs up his feathers or bends more or less slowly; Then, within a few weeks or a few days, forced breathing with open beak, remaining lying on the floor of the cage near the food, sudden spasms from time to time (which make people believe that the bird is "epileptic" but it are twinges of pain of diseased liver), abundant greenish stools (caused by biliverdin which if it's not fasting, it means hepatic harm), then black and watery (from hepatic hemorrhages), then a strange purplish color of skin and beak, an excessive appetite and the final "improvement" of a few days (in the last phase, the already degenerated liver becomes deflated by what seems to ameliorate), after which it suddenly dies among seizures (which may seem a heart infarct).
For the first symptoms the liver has already degenerated to 80% and only an urgent (and accurate) vet action can save your bird and revert the liver situation. If you simply feed your bird with the loose seeds mixture (even if you give it fresh fruits, vegetables and let it exercise, for example by letting it out of the cage at home), right now your pet's liver is degenerating, and neither you nor your bird know. *Without liver protectors, it's almost certain that your bird will die early and in many cases you won’t be able to determine its real cause* .
Hepatic lipidosis it's not only deadly by itself when the visible symptoms begin (sometimes even it does not warn at all until few moments before the death). Even before the acute phase it predisposes the bird to suffer infections, as it weakens the immune system. Obese pet birds have an higher risk of many other diseases, like arthritis, heart disease and cancer. Obesity in birds it's not so apparent but it's more dangerous than in other animals like mammals.
So in addition to giving to the birds lipotropic and detox / regenerating hepatic protectors preventively and routinely, breeders usually make their own mixtures with low fat seeds.
*PREVENTION AND/OR TREATMENT* : The time to act is NOW that your pet doesn’t have yet the visible symptoms. It's necessary to ACTIVELY PREVENT THE LIVER DEGENERATION. Fortunately it's easy to do it: *It's very advisable to substitute progressively (within some weeks, as per the instructions of the manufacturer) the mixture of loose seeds for some pellets compound food of seeds, fruits and vegetables (preferably those that already include liver protectors), because this prevents the bird from filtering and eating mostly the fatty seeds (but without insisting if the bird does not get accustomed to eating pellets because he could die for starvation within a few days)* .
*And, whatever the diet, it's CRUCIAL to add to the drinking water or to the food a LIPOTROPIC LIVER PROTECTOR that includes carnitine and / or choline, betaine, methionine, etc., (and it's very convenient to add a DETOX / REGENERATING LIVER PROTECTOR with thistle milk, boldo, artichoke extract)* . Liver protectors are not medicine but cheap food supplements manufactured by pet bird vet laboratories that remove the fat from the liver, clean it and favor its recovery. It's essential to add them to the pet birds diet to conserve their liver. It's something that professionals as breeders and vets know, but we the owners usually don't know.
It are appearing in the market compound feed for pet birds that don’t include fatty seeds and that already include several liver protectors. But *the vast majority of owners still confidently feed their birds with the typical mixture of loose seeds with little fat and other very fatty seeds... And their birds continue dying of hepatic lipidosis in a large number of cases (likely, in most cases)* . Now we know that, as fatty liver disease develops from the daily food itself, it’s most likely THE FIRST CAUSE OF DEATH OF PET BIRDS, and more so as the bird ages.
Webs on FLD:
www.beautyofbirds.com/liverdisease.html
Liver disease is a slow, on-going progressive disease where the liver tissue is replaced with fat. When the liver disease has progressed, the bird may suddenly appear ill.
www.lovinghands.com/forms/Hepatic%20Lipidosis%20-%20Fatty%20Liver%20Disease.pdf
One of the sadder diseases many avian vets see is that of hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease. It's sad in a number of ways since often the birds are very ill, life-threateningly so, or possibly having died suddenly. Often the owners have been unaware of the dangers of feeding their beloved pet the seeds, peanuts, or other fatty foods the bird obviously loves to eat. These are truly cases of "loving your bird to death". Any bird can fall victim to fatty liver disease.
www.researchgate.net/publication/46105643_Treating_liver_disease_in_the_avian_patient
Dietary deficiencies of lipotrophic factors such as choline, biotin, and methionine may decrease the transport of lipids from the liver.
www.veterinaria.org/revistas/redvet/n111110B/111004B.pdf The clinical manifestations of hepatic diseases in ornamental birds are much more frequent than people could imagine and in many cases they are not appreciated, progress in a silent way and when they are evident, vet action may (usually) arrive late.
Most any avian symptomatology should be considered as if it were a pathology that could be serious, and not allow the disease to develop because then it will probably be too late. We must closely investigate the symptoms, take preventive measures that don’t harm (such as giving liver and intestinal protectors according to the leaflet) ask for advice from vets, breeders, etc. and procure the most appropriate treatment RAPIDLY, but without rushing in the treatment or with the doses in such small animals. If the days go by and the bird doesn’t improve, it's necessary to continue investigating and, if necessary, change the medication in an informed and contrasted manner. Doing nothing or stopping research usually ends up with the bird dead, but acting without being sure of what is done and in what dose, it likely ends the same way. It's necessary to obtain and confirm the sufficient vet experience and have the serenity to determine in each case whether it's convenient to hasten to do and / or administer what medicine and in what dose, or if it’s better not to do and let the situation evolve without medicating for the time being, or according to the medication that has already been administered.
A limp in a bird is not always an injury caused by a blow, but the symptom of a disease of some organ (usually the liver or an intestinal disease) that needs to be discovered and treated ASAP. When in doubt, change diet to one with the lowest fat possible (only birdseed, or with other low-fat seeds such as millet, chia, fresh fruits and vegetables) and administer lipotropic and regenerating liver protectors in curative doses immediately... although nothing could foresee a fatal outcome. There are also food supplements protectors of the intestinal mucosa and stimulants of the immune system. In doses according to the leaflets do not cause damage, it will surely save the life of your bird (if it's not too late), and will keep them with a basic wellness.
jesus christ this was long!
Thank you for this comment more people need to know about proper care for birds
So my budgies eat vegetables every day but still eat mainly seed do you know how to switch them to a main pellet diet so that they don’t die early
@@Blue_Oceanic The most important thing to avoid or to cure the fatty liver disease it's to include routinely and preventively into the birds diet the LIPOTROPIC liver protectors for pet birds. Normally a few drops in their drinking water, with the doses and frequency as per the instructions of the manufacturer, the pet bird vet laboratory; While, the detox / regenerating liver protectors are quite advisable.
Yes, pellets are better than loose seeds mixtures, because this way the bird can't filter and eat mostly the fatty seeds. But there are brands of loose seeds mixtures for pet birds which already include liver protectors, as well.
*To accustom the birds to eating food compounds pellets (preferably those which already include liver protectors) instead of loose seeds, first you have to mix the two types of food in the same feeder. Then you gradually, within some weeks, increase the quantity of the new type of food as well as decreasing the proportion of loose seeds (as per the manufacturer instructions).*
Regarding specific brands of healthy pet birds food (both, loose seeds mixtures, or pellets, including several liver protectors), just read the composition of each brand of food for pet birds available in your country, and confirm that it contain the liver protectors I mention in my main comment above (and also below in this comment).
*Normally the birds eat the food compound and they like it, but it also may happen that the birds don't get accustomed to eat pellets; If this is the case, don't insist on that the bird should eat the pellets at any cost, because the bird could die for starvation (the smaller the bird, the sooner it may die for this cause. A canary could die in just 1 or 2 days without food and/or water).*
*It's necessary, both: 1) to offer to the bird an ample variety of healthy food appropriated to the specific bird species (loose seeds, pellets, vegetables, not sweet fruits, some cereals, etc.) and let the bird to choose what to eat. And 2) to include routinely into the bird's diet the liprotopic and regenerating liver protectors.*
You also can make your own loose low-fat seeds mixtures, as indeed most breeders do.
Some seeds pet birds eat:
LOW FAT SEEDS:
- Birdseed.
- Thistle.
- Chia.
- Foxtail millet (sold normally on branch).
- Quinoa (sold separately)
- Perilla. The great "invention" of fatty seeds is the white perilla. This one, unlike the other fatty seeds does not damage the liver nor the intestine. It can be supplied in winter for pet birds to better resist the winter low temperatures, but don't give too much because it makes our birds fat. It can replace rapeseed and flaxseed.
HIGH FAT SEEDS:
- Sunflower seeds (the most fatty seed, be most careful with this one as it heavily damages the liver; or, still better, DON'T give them to your birds).
- Hemp (also very careful with this one as administered in excess causes liver damage).
- Nabine (can damage the liver and create indigestion).
- Niger seed.
- Flaxseed.
- Rapeseed.
There are videos in UA-cam of breeders explaining the proportions of the different seeds they use to make their loose seeds mixtures.
So, *whatever the food (loose seeds mixture or pellets of compound food), it's ESSENTIAL to include into their diet the specifically developed liver protectors (specially the LIPOTROPIC ones but it's quite advisable the detox/regenerating), by administering a few drops in the drinking water (as per the respective leaflets), to keep the birds with a basic wellness and their liver clean of fat, for avoiding the covert, misleading and deadly FLD.*
This is BASIC info every pet bird owner should get at first when getting a birb, as this disease it's caused by the food these animals eat... Sadly, pet stores normally don't say it!
*Liver protectors are not medicine but cheap, necessary food supplements manufactured by pet bird vet laboratories all around the world precisely for this purpose of preventing and/or curing the hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease.*
*LIPOTROPIC LIVER PROTECTORS:* Those food supplements containing some or several of the following: carnitine, choline, betaine, methionine, lysine, biotine, etc.
*DETOX / REGENERATING LIVER PROTECTORS:* The ones which contain: thistle milk, boldo, artichoke extract.
You should go to your favorite pet shop or vet office to ask them what lipotropic and detox liver protectors brands for pet birds are available in your country.
Also, you can buy them online. Just search in Google or in your favorite web search engine by the keywords "liver protectors for pet birds" or "lipotropic liver protectors for pet birds" and "detox liver protectors for pet birds" and (fortunately) one gets lots of results.
@Orchid Flock You are right. Indeed, several avian vets and canary breeders in UA-cam spontaneously confirmed this and so congratulated me.
My comment above is the summary of several months of careful study and testing with veterinarians, breeders and gathering scattered information on the Internet, on the most common cause of premature death in pet birds: fatty liver hepatitis.
I carried out this study on the occasion of the unexpected death of our affectionate, very intelligent, communicative and much loved orange canary, at only 3 years of age. Yes, the general vet misdiagnosed him because he thought his limp would surely be a blow (we let him fly freely around the house), since he had no wings or broken legs and he was a young bird.
This is the BASIC information that all owners should first obtain when purchasing a pet bird. Unfortunately pet stores don't usually say this. Therefore, I put this information in many videos, to alert people about it and try to avoid these unexpected but very common situations.
I am glad that now your birds will also avoid the most common disease, as well as covert, deceptive and DEADLY, and they will remain well-being throughout their life expectancy. Please also spread the word offline to your neighbors, friends, etc., and let's save more birds from dying in this sad way. 👍👍
I will save this video for when I get my budgie this Christmas also I learned a lot of info thanks😁
I stared laughing so hard when he bugies as starter pets and good for people who are not home it’s pretty much the exact opposite in realty🤦🏽♀️ please do proper research on birds and avoid videos that give wrong info
Agreed
agreed. also he excluded a bunch of things, IS THAT A DOWEL PERCH!?
Hey,
I bought a budgie pair this Monday. Owner suggested us that tgey are not tamed and not to take them out at least one week. Butd it looks like they really looking for coming out and struggling so hard to be inside.
Can you please suggest what should I do
Amazing video will help alot learned so much thanks
I have a question I was having 2 male budgies in a cage and they fight all the time but one day at morning I found that one of them which was smaller budgie was screaming and he can't stand and after some while he died so I want to know that second budgie have killed him. Can a budgie kill another budgie in the same cage?? and if yes then how????? please give answer
DHRUV SHARMA yes budgies shouldn’t be male and male because they will fight
XxPARROT SQUADxX No, it is RECOMMENDED to have only MALE budgies live together. Females with males will breed and 2 females often fight. To answer the question above, you knew they were fighting, why did you not separate them? It's unlikely that 2 males fight. Did you have one longer than the other? If so, maybe you did not introduce them properly. And yes, they will fight when threatened.
Hi i have a question
how often do budgies pee and when you let the budgie fly in your room do they poop everywhere
also can you potty train your budgie and do they make noise at night
Very informative. Nice video, I'm getting a budgie (sorta) soon!
A lot of the things in this video is misinformation
Hello I need some help with budgies so mine died last night around 11-3 am but I'm getting a new one or two but should I get 2 or 1 because I will be in school 7-4 so should I have 2 cockatiels right by the cage typically so will 1 or 2 work???
Get 2 and go to the vet so you can see why he did
*died
I have four young budgies that were rehomed with me now, but I'm not sure how to tame them, I have them in one fairly big cage?
Thats great that you rehomed budgies! This isnt my video but I used this same method to tame my budgies and it worked really well! You can find it here : ua-cam.com/video/n_41yhF9fg0/v-deo.html It will take longer with all of them in one cage so you might want to put them in different cages for the taming process. Hope this helps!
Hi, what do you mean that budgies need to be kept out one to two hours a day? Do you mean out of their cage? If so, then do you mean indoors or outdoors? Plus how do you you get them back in the cage?
Hi there great video thank you! How would you clean the rope perch? As I imagine it will get dirty.
Anthony Casto You can put it in the dishwasher or even the clothes washer itself.
Will my cage still work if the bars are all up
Hello stranger scrolling through the comments seeds are treats not food they are very high in fat, that cage in the vid is too small, don’t put a spray millet in the cage it is a treat, I don’t recommend getting that thing that you put in your birds water cuz it barley works I don’t have a budgie yet but I know this stuff from a year of researching have a nice day 😊
i agree so much
Pet store seed isn't the best option for your parrots and they will live longer with a better diet. ua-cam.com/video/wV8jBQUupyU/v-deo.html
About how much would you say that you paid for that cage?
Galactic Marine CZ-6492 I have a really good cage and it cost me between 100-120€
Does taking care of a budgie cost a lot? I am thinking of getting one.
Moon Sans Taking Care Of Budgies Is Really Easy But U Have To Spend At Least 1Hour Of PlayTime Or Handling :)
Good video. I wouldn't use newspaper though. They ting to eat paper. You can find wood or ceder chips in almost any hardware or supply store.
They don't usually eat a lot of the paper and even if they do, it's small enough to be digested without issue. Most newspapers use soy-based inks now, which are safer. We do not recommend using cedar wood shavings ever as they contain harmful vapors which can cause respiratory issues in pets.
+Pisces Pets.. Grit papers are best I think. They sell them at pet shops, even supermarkets.
JANINE Rowling I heard that too. Thanks for the tip.
Discerning Daniel You're welcome . A vet told me they need the grit for their digestion .☺
I was thinking about getting a bird like a budgie and I was thinking am I able to just get one because I feel like it would be easier for me sense me and my family have never owned birds, also I was wondering I have school for 6 hours 8-2 so would it be a smart idea for me to just leave the budgie in the cage with toys, food, water, etc and when I get home let him/she out of the cage for about 3-4 hours? Because I do a lot of sports that require me to wake up early so I might not be able to let him/she out of the cage for a long time in the mornings. Would all of this be ok?
Tiffany It's really best to have 2.. But with lots of toys and time out of the cage every day, he might be ok
and I want to know which is better budgie or cockatiel
budgie
DHRUV SHARMA it depends on you. Cockatiels are cuddly and sweet, very similar to budgies. Though Tiels require more out time and get attached to you very easily.
You are the best
my left ear loved this
Ohhh they boujjie they got they own theme song
I’ve been planning on getting a budgie ever since I saw a baby one with blue and yellow feathers when I went on holiday. One question, is there anything such as a too big of a cage. The cage I’ve been planning on is 175 + cm tall ( without stand) and is a three story cage. I’m only really planning on getting one for a start as I’ve had reptiles in the past and only owned one at a time and maybe further on of owning a bird but I’m worried about it getting lonely or depressed.
Imagine.corbyn .m.besson The bigger the cage is the better! Our cage is about 45 inches without the shelf and I still want a bigger one 😁
Just make sure to put a few ladders and different types of perches so he can get around well. Rope, branches and other natural wood ones they sell online or at the pet store are great.
But It is recommended to have at least 2.. you could get one now and have him bond with you, and then get another later on. Just make sure he has plenty of toys and gets lots of attention every day ☺️
I don’t really know inches but I’ll do what I can, a basic budgie cage should be at least 60 centimeters wide and 70 tall (this is the bare minimum mind you, the bigger the better). The diet has to consist of many types of greens, veggies, premium pellets and very few seeds, I highly recommend a few channels on youtube like Birdtricks, Elleandthebirds, salvador budgie, flying fids and a few others. And please please PLEASE do your own research from dated, reputable websites ran by people who know what they’re doing. VERY IMPORTANT! Do not EVER listen to the advice from pet stores, especially big chain stores like petco and petsmart
Sir when I purchase a pair of budgies I want to get this toys
So you we saying they need to be washed daily, it's that a necessity every day, ? I do have a spray bottle I can use. Also got my calcium bell a few toys, perches a small house and a mix. Of budgie crumble and millet seed, think I'm set.
Shaun Burgess to spray the Birds?
ebruh you said you can spray them instead if a bird bath, is it totally necessary?
Shaun Burgess its better when they have a bath on there own! But the bathes you can buy are usually too small (they can't spread their wings) just use a flat bowl with water
Shaun Burgess I don't think they don't need a bath/shower every day.. they do a pretty good job at keeping themselves clean. We use a spray bottle and bird bath only a couple times a week
If you are located where I live I might come to the store!
4921 Skyline Way NE
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Where did u get those toys
I'm wearing earbuds and only my right side has audio. I checked again with another video and both of my earbuds work :/
+Amanda Le Sorry about that. Seems to be working through both of my headphones but I will look into it! Thanks for letting us know.
Its doing that with mine on this video, how strange
Its doing that with mine on this video, how strange
I'm sorry, I wish I knew how to fix this issue but I can't seem to recreate the problem. :/
Yea same
Where do we get the item which u have showed
Really great video!! 😊
My aunt wants to get a bird as a companion pet but she doesn't know which one! she is a beginner and she wants a small or medium sized bird! Like a cockatiel or a budgie! Does anyone know what type of bird she should get? Thank you🙂
budgie all the way
get a budgie. they're smaller so make less noise/ mess (but still require plenty of love and care). my nan had a male budgie for twelve years and he made a great pet :D
Do you know what the max. bar spacing is allowed?
+Buffy I would say max. bar spacing would be 1/2" (1.27 cm). Try and keep it less than that.
great video this helped me a lot 👍
what size cage is that? might be getting a budgie tomorrow and would really help!
Jaida Kaya not to sound rude but his cage is way too small! The biggest one you can afford is best, so they can have plenty of toys and different types of perches
You Need at least 2 ! Minimum size is 100x 50x50 cm
where are you guys located
my female budgie has died leaving three eggs behind. how can i take care of them. Thanks for your help in advance.
+Titus Dsouza Was there a male in there too? It's possible that the eggs are not even fertilized.
Pisces Pets Yes, but he does seem to be interested in looking after the eggs. Thanks for responding.
Hello, thank you for the video! I'm planning to have soon 2 Budgies but for now i'm just preparing... I'm looking for a cage but it's hard to find a cage in the size that is recommend for 2 birds ( I'm from a small town)... what is the size of this cage from the video?
It is too small
This advice is bad watch Elle and the birds instead
@@Blue_Oceanic yup
It was louder when I put my phone up and down wise and less loud when I put it side ways
And the birds need lots of toys it make them even more busy
『 Memory-gacha』:3 YT yeah budgies need more time out of the cage my birds are out all day on their stand with toys on it and they go to my room and different stands budgies need way more attention than what this guy said
please let me know about round cages are they right or not
Don't they are horrible. The birds will have nowhere to hide while they are scared
Round cages are not recommended as budgies have hooked bills and use the horizontal bars in their cages to move about.
DHRUV SHARMA No they are really bad
Wow finally a pet store who aircraft gave some good advice about parakeets ool
LPS Cookie Cat not really this is terrible advice watch live laugh birds for advice
Thx for helping me help me set up the cage
Can u help me find grass salads for parakeets please help me
I'm a student but I want to train my budgie. Should I get one or two budgies?
+Eric Shiver One budgies will feel lonely but will learn to talk English easier.
Two budgies will entertain eachother, stay pretty happy, BUT they may never learn to talk English.
I got two budgies, I'm still a fairly new owner. Mine are I think about 3 months old now. Still haven't said any words except tweeting and squawking at each other. But they are very happy. Before when I only had one I could tell it was lonely, scared, and didn't want to interact with anyone.
+Cat Ross Okay! Thanks!
+Eric Shiver it depends how much time you have to spend with them each day. If you have lots of time to spend with them, one is usually fine. Having two may keep them more entertained while you're not around, but they will likely bond to each other, making it somewhat harder to tame them.
+Pisces Pets I will usually have 1 hour free each day to spend time with the budgie. Is this enough time?
+Pisces Pets Thanks for the reply!
can you show how to take care of a parut
Zhang Richard look for parrot videos...
when you mean wash can we just spray there feathers with a mist bottle?
+Omar Hjz Yes, you can spray them with warm or lukewarm water from a mist bottle. Alternatively, you can provide a bath for them to go in.
How do u clean it tho
Nathan Schoolmeesters water
Very helpful! thanks
how much was all of that?
This guy looks so nervous. Calm down. Great video
Rhubarb Pie it’s not always easy having to talk in front of a bunch of people 😅
Do NOT use those dishes for seed. You will have seed shells everywhere in your house. Use the clear box with the perch inside that contains the seed shells after. They are fairly cheap and will change your life if you have these birds. Also these birds are not a piece of cake. They are very sensitive to food, smells, sound, and being handled to roughly. Also if you put a box in the cage you will have baby's and tho that sounds awesome it is a huge thing to take on. Be smart. Please
of stop telling people what to do
Are you my boss
Good job.
I would put the water and food bowl on top of a perch
We are getting a budgie too and you a very helpful thank you from Lauren 🐥
how much is stuff?
Great info! thanks so much!
I’m going to correct the cage setup. There should be any dowel perches, they are dangerous for the feet. The toys should be a little bigger and better spread out. The bowls should have a little door so you don’t have to reach into the cage everyday and freak out the bird.
thanks this was so helpful!
hes like a joaquin phoenix before acting classes
i have two birds these birds are very happy first time my bird is need help of me then i care him
Had only one ear bud in and it was very quiet so I turned it all the way up........ then put in the other ear and about died
I have 2 budgies and it's hard to tame them
is this cage too small for two budgies, though?
This looks like a decent size. And the budgie should be happy, providing they are well loved :) It is handy to have a size that works well for transporting too.
This cage would be the minimum size we would recommend for 2 budgies if you play with them a lot. If you can provide more space, that is always better.
Yes sorry, for two budgies I'm sure Pisces Pets are spot on!
Kenzie Atkins In my opinion, this cage is too small for even one :-( but the biggest you can afford is best. They need lots of room for toys and different types of perches too!
great video subbed!
A lot of the stuff in the vid is wrong 🙁🙁🙁🙁🙁🙁
what is the price of this cage
+sabit alam It is currently priced at $75.99 in store.
thank you, the video was really useful.
*IMPORTANT WARNING FOR PET BIRD OWNERS:* The food that we normally give to the canaries (and other companion birds) consisting of a "complete, balanced and top-quality seeds mixture" bought in pet stores or malls, makes the owners trust that their pet is well fed, but it's not so: indeed the birds health is at serious risk.
The owners of canaries, parrots, cockatoos, budgies, cockatiels, etc., WE MUST PAY ATTENTION TO DOMESTIC BIRD BREEDERS AND VETS and keep in mind that although we feed them with such a typical seeds mixture, our birds are very likely in danger of suffering an unexpected, painful and practically inevitable PREMATURE DEATH BY FATTY LIVER DISEASE. Canaries, for example, will surely die at 4 - 7 years of age of the more than 14 that they can live.
It's sad that pet birds are fated to die early and painfully in so many cases. You have to warn people to avoid it!
This deadly disease is very common in pet birds but owners usually don’t know or detect it in time. And we can’t imagine that *THE CAUSE IS IN THE FOOD ITSELF* that we provide to our birds, in which such *a typical mixture contains low-fat seeds such as canary seed together with other VERY fatty seeds such as niger, hemp or nabine and, in addition, the birds usually prefer to eat the fatty seeds* so that their REAL DIET is unbalanced by excessive fat, gradually causes the fatty infiltration of the liver and in a few years causes fatty liver hepatitis and PREMATURE DEATH to pet birds.
*Also the fruits and specially the breeding paste and its pigments and THE SUNFLOWER SEEDS can attack the liver* if they are taken too much or for too long.
It's a cruel disease that progresses silently and, when its unexpected symptoms begin, they are easily confused with other ailments so the owners usually postpone the visit to the vet at a time already critical for the life of the bird (besides that not all vets are trained to recognize this elusive and misleading disease, even to administer lipotropic and regenerative liver protectors in curative doses, just in case it's that and not a supposed blow). It's a process of slow and asymptomatic progression, but when their visible symptoms begin (acute phase) the disease accelerates.
*SYMPTOMS OF THE ACUTE PHASE OF FATTY LIVER DISEASE:* First, progressive sadness and/or pecking, overgrowth of beak and nails, hard belly (in many cases, with a dark spot with a half-moon shape on the belly, which seems a "tumor", to see it you have to wet your fingers to remove the down), falls from the sticks of the cage that seem for "errors of calculation" and then lameness (that make believe that they are by the previous falls, but both symptoms are due to that it hurts the liver), lack of flight and singing, the bird fluffs up his feathers or bends more or less slowly; Then, within a few weeks or a few days, heavy breathing with open beak, remaining lying on the floor of the cage near the food, sudden spasms from time to time (which make people believe that the bird is "epileptic" but it are twinges of pain of diseased liver), abundant greenish poop (caused by biliverdin which if it's not fasting, it means hepatic harm), then black and watery (from hepatic hemorrhages), then a strange purplish color of skin and beak, an excessive appetite and the final "improvement" of a few days (in the last phase, the already degenerated liver becomes deflated by what the bird seems to ameliorate), after which it suddenly dies among seizures (which may seem a "heart infarct" or a "stroke").
For the first symptoms the liver has already degenerated to 80% and only an urgent (and accurate) vet action can save your bird and revert the liver situation. If you simply feed your bird with the loose seeds mixture (even if you give it fresh fruits, vegetables and let it exercise, for example by letting it out of the cage at home), right now your pet's liver is degenerating, and neither you nor your bird know. *Without liver protectors, it's almost certain that your bird will die early and in many cases you won’t be able to determine its real cause.*
Hepatic lipidosis it's not only deadly by itself when the visible symptoms begin (sometimes even it does not warn at all until few moments before the death). Even before the acute phase it predisposes the bird to suffer infections, as it weakens the immune system. Obese pet birds have an higher risk of many other diseases, like arthritis, heart disease and cancer. Obesity in birds it's not so apparent but it's more dangerous than in other animals like mammals.
So in addition to giving to the birds lipotropic and detox / regenerating hepatic protectors preventively and routinely, breeders usually make their own mixtures with low fat seeds.
*PREVENTION AND/OR TREATMENT:* The time to act is NOW that your bird doesn’t have yet the visible symptoms. It's necessary to ACTIVELY PREVENT THE LIVER DEGENERATION. Fortunately it's easy to do it: *It's very advisable to substitute progressively (within some weeks, as per the instructions of the manufacturer) the mixture of loose seeds for some pellets compound food of seeds, fruits and vegetables (preferably those that already include liver protectors), because this prevents the bird from filtering and eating mostly the fatty seeds (but without insisting if the bird does not get accustomed to eating pellets because he could die for starvation within a few days).*
*And, whatever the diet, it's CRUCIAL to add to the drinking water or to the food a LIPOTROPIC LIVER PROTECTOR that includes carnitine and / or choline, betaine, methionine, etc., (and it's very convenient to add a DETOX / REGENERATING LIVER PROTECTOR with thistle milk, boldo, artichoke extract).*
Liver protectors are not medicine but cheap food supplements manufactured by pet bird vet laboratories that remove the fat from the liver, clean it and favor its recovery. It's essential to add them to the pet birds diet to conserve their liver. It's something that breeders and vets know, but we the owners usually don't know.
It are appearing in the market compound feed for pet birds that don’t include fatty seeds and that already include several liver protectors. *But the vast majority of owners still confidently feed their birds with the typical mixture of loose seeds with little fat and other very fatty seeds... And their birds continue dying for hepatic lipidosis in a large number of cases (likely, in most cases).* Now we know that, as fatty liver disease develops from the daily food itself, it’s most likely THE FIRST CAUSE OF DEATH OF PET BIRDS, and more so as the bird ages.
Webs on FLD:
www.beautyofbirds.com/liverdisease.html
Liver disease is a slow, on-going progressive disease where the liver tissue is replaced with fat. When the liver disease has progressed, the bird may suddenly appear ill.
www.lovinghands.com/forms/Hepatic%20Lipidosis%20-%20Fatty%20Liver%20Disease.pdf One of the sadder diseases many avian vets see is that of hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease. It's sad in a number of ways since often the birds are very ill, life-threateningly so, or possibly having died suddenly. Often the owners have been unaware of the dangers of feeding their beloved pet the seeds, peanuts, or other fatty foods the bird obviously loves to eat. These are truly cases of "loving your bird to death". Any bird can fall victim to fatty liver disease.
www.researchgate.net/publication/46105643_Treating_liver_disease_in_the_avian_patient Dietary deficiencies of lipotrophic factors such as choline, biotin, and methionine may decrease the transport of lipids from the liver.
www.veterinaria.org/revistas/redvet/n111110B/111004B.pdf The clinical manifestations of hepatic diseases in ornamental birds are much more frequent than people could imagine and in many cases they are not appreciated, progress in a silent way and when they are evident, vet action may arrive late.
Most any avian symptomatology should be considered as if it was a pathology that could be serious, and not allow the disease to develop because then it will probably be too late. We must closely investigate the symptoms, take preventive measures that don’t harm (such as giving liver and intestinal protectors according to the leaflet) ask for advice from vets, breeders, etc. and procure the most appropriate treatment RAPIDLY, but without rushing in the treatment or with the doses in such small animals. If the days go by and the bird doesn’t improve, it's necessary to continue investigating and, if necessary, change the medication in an informed and contrasted manner. Doing nothing or stopping research usually ends up with the bird dead, but acting without being sure of what is done and in what dose, it likely ends the same way. It's necessary to obtain and confirm the sufficient vet experience and have the serenity to determine in each case whether it's convenient to hasten to do and / or administer what medicine and in what dose, or if it’s better not to do and let the situation evolve without medicating for the time being, or according to the medication that has already been administered.
A limp in a bird is not always an injury caused by a blow, but the symptom of a disease of some organ (usually the liver or an intestinal disease) that needs to be discovered and treated ASAP. When in doubt, change diet to one with the lowest fat possible (only birdseed, or with other low-fat seeds such as millet, chia and vegetables) and administer lipotropic and regenerating liver protectors in curative doses immediately... although nothing could foresee a fatal outcome. There are also food supplements protectors of the intestinal mucosa and stimulants of the immune system. In doses according to the leaflets do not cause damage, it will surely save the life of your bird (if it's not too late), and will keep them with a basic wellness.
I hear it fine .
What about bedding/litter
+Angela zhao-grande Sorry about the late reply! For bedding/litter you have several options: paper/paper towel, gravel paper (this is a good one), or a recycled paper bedding such as Carefresh.
+Unimax You can use an absorbent, paper-based bedding, newspaper, or even paper towel.
You can use paper towels or regular paper to line the bottom of their cage!
Grit paper or even paper towels with sand spread over as budgies need the grit for digestion.
were is the budge
Thank you dude