Bit of heads-up for anyone that drags a trailer… If your tow vehicle has no issues, and you have a vibration while towing, it’s a tire problem on the trailer. I’ve hooked up to a LOT of different trailers while I was OTR, and I can feel if a tire is bad in a trailer. That’s about the time I head to the next exit and figure out the problem. On one trailer that I owned, I had an inside blowout. This only works with duals…. I had a light load, and I always carried my own tools. I took the wheels off, and removed the flat tire from the rim. That got stowed and tied down. Since the load was light, I was able to safely put the bare rim back on the inside, and ride with one tire on that side of the axle. It’s not illegal unless you are overloading that tire. Putting the hood tire in the outside is much better for stability, and the leverage factor puts less load on the remaining tire. Rode out the rest of the load, and had no problems going over scales. Those DOT officers know what to look for. They see the light axle weight, and obviously see the missing tire, and say nothing. Know your axle weights, and know your individual tire loading. On some empty or light trailer that have a tire or mechanical issue, it’s also legal to “retract” the axle with chains or straps to keep it off the ground. Also legal.
One of the Castle Rocks on my Forest River Wolf Pup separated at four years old. Fortunately I caught it before it blew; I saw a lateral deformity in the tread in my mirror while backing in after a trip. When I pulled the wheel I found that one lug nut was cross-threaded and rammed on with the impact wrench from the factory; it'd never been off, and I'm guessing it was like that from Lippert before the chassis even had a coach built on top of it. It tracks way better with the Goodyear Endurance tires I put on it. (I got a new stud and lug nut from NAPA.)
That's a good save! I have had good luck with mine, but I just didn't want to chance it any longer. I know it can happen with any tire, but there's definitely a difference in quality when it comes to tires.
I found the best way to not fail a tire is to change tires every year or two. Not worth blowing one out and tearing up the rig. I ran my trailer three times a year. One year was 4000 miles. Changed them every two years. The price of a set is way less than one flat. Plus run a load range D tire.
It is my understanding that Carlisle tires are made in China. At least the old ones on my trailer were made in China. I agree avoiding having a tire blowout is very important. I periodically inspect my tires by jacking them one at a time just enough so I can spin the tire. I spin the tire while watching the tread just above the ground. What I’m looking for is if there is a slipped belt by spinning the tire you can see side to side movement in the tread. If there is a slipped belt replace the tire immediately, before the tread separates from the tire carcass which is what damages the trailer. I also replace my trailer tires when they are about 5 years old, regardless of tread depth. As a side note, spinning the tire also lets you check the adjustment of the trailer brakes.
The GY endurance has been great on my trailer with one exception, they don't start out with as much rubber as other trailer brands so they haven't lasted very long. Otherwise, no complaints. Yes, I've had blowouts and even a tire that just suffered a tread separation laying in the back of my truck inside a canopy in the dark. I will never buy another Carlisle. All my tires have been meticulously maintained including having them balanced.
Bit of heads-up for anyone that drags a trailer…
If your tow vehicle has no issues, and you have a vibration while towing, it’s a tire problem on the trailer.
I’ve hooked up to a LOT of different trailers while I was OTR, and I can feel if a tire is bad in a trailer.
That’s about the time I head to the next exit and figure out the problem.
On one trailer that I owned, I had an inside blowout.
This only works with duals….
I had a light load, and I always carried my own tools.
I took the wheels off, and removed the flat tire from the rim.
That got stowed and tied down.
Since the load was light, I was able to safely put the bare rim back on the inside, and ride with one tire on that side of the axle.
It’s not illegal unless you are overloading that tire.
Putting the hood tire in the outside is much better for stability, and the leverage factor puts less load on the remaining tire.
Rode out the rest of the load, and had no problems going over scales.
Those DOT officers know what to look for.
They see the light axle weight, and obviously see the missing tire, and say nothing.
Know your axle weights, and know your individual tire loading.
On some empty or light trailer that have a tire or mechanical issue, it’s also legal to “retract” the axle with chains or straps to keep it off the ground.
Also legal.
I agree , the Carlisle was a great choice and going to a 10 ply was a really good move!
I hope so. Thanks for watching 👀
One of the Castle Rocks on my Forest River Wolf Pup separated at four years old. Fortunately I caught it before it blew; I saw a lateral deformity in the tread in my mirror while backing in after a trip. When I pulled the wheel I found that one lug nut was cross-threaded and rammed on with the impact wrench from the factory; it'd never been off, and I'm guessing it was like that from Lippert before the chassis even had a coach built on top of it. It tracks way better with the Goodyear Endurance tires I put on it. (I got a new stud and lug nut from NAPA.)
That's a good save! I have had good luck with mine, but I just didn't want to chance it any longer. I know it can happen with any tire, but there's definitely a difference in quality when it comes to tires.
All the camping groups I'm in talk about how bad those first tires are.
I found the best way to not fail a tire is to change tires every year or two.
Not worth blowing one out and tearing up the rig.
I ran my trailer three times a year. One year was 4000 miles. Changed them every two years. The price of a set is way less than one flat. Plus run a load range D tire.
Absolutely! I just got back from my trip to Florida so now have 2000 miles already but well worth the piece of mind.
It is my understanding that Carlisle tires are made in China. At least the old ones on my trailer were made in China.
I agree avoiding having a tire blowout is very important. I periodically inspect my tires by jacking them one at a time just enough so I can spin the tire. I spin the tire while watching the tread just above the ground. What I’m looking for is if there is a slipped belt by spinning the tire you can see side to side movement in the tread. If there is a slipped belt replace the tire immediately, before the tread separates from the tire carcass which is what damages the trailer. I also replace my trailer tires when they are about 5 years old, regardless of tread depth. As a side note, spinning the tire also lets you check the adjustment of the trailer brakes.
The GY endurance has been great on my trailer with one exception, they don't start out with as much rubber as other trailer brands so they haven't lasted very long. Otherwise, no complaints.
Yes, I've had blowouts and even a tire that just suffered a tread separation laying in the back of my truck inside a canopy in the dark. I will never buy another Carlisle. All my tires have been meticulously maintained including having them balanced.
What was the tire pressure when you left out that day? Just one trip and very few miles with it low will do it in.
Carlile are made in China also
❤👍👍👍