Could see the chassis flexing right about at the front of the motor mount ...definitely need the brace...been very educational to watch kinda itching to build a beast. Great info Earl thank you !
Thanks for the video Earl, I didn't hear or see much about the motors here, I was looking forward to it. I'd like to see a good comparison between the 1520 and the 1717 1650 KV motors. I'm on the fense about which to get for my limitless. Thanks again.
@@earlmoorhead5555 yes you Need to reach out to tp and have them make you a y wound motor castle says the D wound update is coming soon but who knows how long that would take
Very nice!😎 That 1520 is what I'm running for my drag/speedrun setup for 100 mph. I'm hoping to get there soon😎. That curb is like a magnet for me😂 That's going to be a wicked RC.😎♥️
@@earlmoorhead5555 Yes, it awesome Earl. It really is more than I need or really can handle but I'm doing this to help others and it's fun as hell to😂😎I'm doing the something you are doing but with a K6 and at 100 mph. I think for the K6, that's a perfect gearing for guys to go out and show off😂♥️😎💯It will leave a black mark 25 ft long almost. My trigger, I noticed, is if a little. I pull it and nothing happens at the very beginning, then if I squeeze more, it goes. I need to recalibrate it, I guess. I hope that's all. Damn DumboRC GYRO is GARBAGE! That thing will fight me and turn the car when a cross wind hits it! I'm not smart enough to use it right yet😂😎
@@rcpd3157 im having good luck with the radio link i have the mother if all radios the futaba 7pxr that stoped binding with receivers and its a paper weight and futaba is being so difficult to deal with they dont want to rma it
Just love the video Great 👍 knowledge on hobby,especially for high speeding. I'm know where close. But it good research for what's coming for me. You da Mann..
EARL... I was just thinking (sometimes it hurts),,but maybe shaving down the side of the servo mount some to maybe give some more wiggle room to install the aluminum body mount,,just a thought,,,I’m also thinking along with you...just a thought....ALSO are the ends of the tower to tower mount screwed on or pressed on? If they are screwed on Maybe you could shorten the ends a little so they will drop right in instead of flexing the chassis to install them.....just some thoughts.....🇺🇸🚘👈
Earl, i hope you can awnser this question and you might have ready tried or see someone try. What is the max KV you think a max5 can handle. I got the 1650kv HW hooked up atm and it handles it no problem in my infraction. Just a question before i make a huge mistake. Hope your doing well, thanks for the content.
The diff not being tight makes no sense at all i would still run the top brace with the plastic braces and ive ran the stock shafts for a while and havnt had any issues
Earl thx for the video....I have the stock motor on my Infraction v1, not the v2 model but I used the blue heatsink that GC sent me.... I don't like the odd blue color look bit it works. If I heard you correctly Sir, the 2x GC motor fans will work with the Arrma heatsink of the v1? I only need a few holes to line up for it to work.... thoughts?
Crazy flex just put my typhoons on and basher queen carbon bits on today and I just pushed the front brace to the right and the shaft clears Earl. I'll buy the raz shafts off ya Earl?
Hey Earl I have been looking to get a motor for my infraction i will be using a MMX8 on a road course for racing would a 1520 or a 1717 be better, the race is a good 6 minute race and 4 races in the day. trying not to over power or over heat while it runs around the track but wanting that power to fly down the straight away
Hey bud have you seen any of the new 22s drag cars that came out on the third batch? I just picked one up and wow what an improvement clean body lines straight spoiler I got stickers on the body that were not on the first batch like badging and such . the rear taillights are red instead of clear and i have no idea what they have changed the car does not spin out while braking anymore like what the!! I got the 22s exotek vador carbon kit with a stand up trans mount and 22s 5.0 bulk head cant wait to get it together Hobbyshop is nearing completion!
@@earlmoorhead5555 yea and we paid for their mistakes $60 bucks more for them to go back and fix their issues its $459 now but im happy i needed another chassis was going to grab the roller but the t1 was available and i actually do not regret haha
@@earlmoorhead5555 Earl the more i look at them side by side the more differences i see i can not believe it its almost an entirely new car Wheelie bar is straight and not curved downwards Actual oil filled shocks on all four sides Bump stops in the rear shocks Tighter turn buckles Alignment is almost spot on Gear mesh is on point Bodies have been cut and assembled properly with perfect wheel well cuts And most of all no more spin outs on braking Im happy im filming to point out all the fixes very impressed well done losi took you a while third time round better late than never lol
hey earl another great video. i have a question tho I just purchased an xlx2 and i calibrated it and everything. when i looked in the data log under the power out section 86% was the highest i did not 100%( and i had the trigger at 100% during the run). So i recalibrated the system again and slowly pulled back not in a jerking motion and went out for another quick rip and long story short im still at 86%. what am i doing wrong
Make sure before calibration the trims are at 0 for trigger and if your using and aftermarket remote you can adjust the trigger to 120 % to get to 100 % pulls if needed
@@earlmoorhead5555 thank you I got it working. I did two things I recalibrate my remote from the system settings and then I fixed my trim and set it to 0 and now I'm at 100%. Thank you for the help
Hey earl, it looks like the chassis is to thin it might add a bit more weight but even a carbon fibre chassis should be a bit thicker that’s the backbone of the car
Me too....which I had his shop skills to solder and cut stuff....I should have taken shop class seriously in 7th grand Junior High...hell I am 50 now so I would have forgotten....LOL
hey earl does someone make a front and rear drive shafts for the stock limitless that fits with out sanding down the braces and is a up graded from the stock shafts? dont want to sand my braces. i have stock braces in mine. they work good . take care earl.
Could see the chassis flexing right about at the front of the motor mount ...definitely need the brace...been very educational to watch kinda itching to build a beast. Great info Earl thank you !
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the video Earl, I didn't hear or see much about the motors here, I was looking forward to it. I'd like to see a good comparison between the 1520 and the 1717 1650 KV motors. I'm on the fense about which to get for my limitless. Thanks again.
Always about the details… RC therapy …good relaxing vid… 👍👍👍
Lol you cut em with the screws in it thats smart i was buying smaller screws when ill i had to do was cut the ones with the nub thanks for the tip
Looks great Earl! Finished my limitless based on your clown car build , tp 4070
Xlx2, GCRC fans , Scorched shafts .
The xlx2 needs a Y wind motor all tp motors are D wind so be careful as I had a custom winding done ✅
@@earlmoorhead5555 yes you Need to reach out to tp and have them make you a y wound motor castle says the D wound update is coming soon but who knows how long that would take
Cordova is making me a y wound 1470 i can not wait!
Are the tp motors good for bashing also or just speed runs?
Very nice!😎 That 1520 is what I'm running for my drag/speedrun setup for 100 mph. I'm hoping to get there soon😎. That curb is like a magnet for me😂 That's going to be a wicked RC.😎♥️
Nice 👍
U should get a killmode for drag bud lol
@@nolimitrc1 That's another company I want to try their CapPack at some point.
@@earlmoorhead5555 Yes, it awesome Earl. It really is more than I need or really can handle but I'm doing this to help others and it's fun as hell to😂😎I'm doing the something you are doing but with a K6 and at 100 mph. I think for the K6, that's a perfect gearing for guys to go out and show off😂♥️😎💯It will leave a black mark 25 ft long almost. My trigger, I noticed, is if a little. I pull it and nothing happens at the very beginning, then if I squeeze more, it goes. I need to recalibrate it, I guess. I hope that's all. Damn DumboRC GYRO is GARBAGE! That thing will fight me and turn the car when a cross wind hits it! I'm not smart enough to use it right yet😂😎
@@rcpd3157 im having good luck with the radio link i have the mother if all radios the futaba 7pxr that stoped binding with receivers and its a paper weight and futaba is being so difficult to deal with they dont want to rma it
It is getting more and more like a Real rc car 🤘👊💯
Just love the video
Great 👍 knowledge on hobby,especially for high speeding. I'm know where close. But it good research for what's coming for me. You da Mann..
Looking good it's going to be a fun car to drive
EARL... I was just thinking (sometimes it hurts),,but maybe shaving down the side of the servo mount some to maybe give some more wiggle room to install the aluminum body mount,,just a thought,,,I’m also thinking along with you...just a thought....ALSO are the ends of the tower to tower mount screwed on or pressed on? If they are screwed on Maybe you could shorten the ends a little so they will drop right in instead of flexing the chassis to install them.....just some thoughts.....🇺🇸🚘👈
i have the 1520 good for speed runs plus its less weight helps with power to weight ratio
Earl, i hope you can awnser this question and you might have ready tried or see someone try.
What is the max KV you think a max5 can handle. I got the 1650kv HW hooked up atm and it handles it no problem in my infraction. Just a question before i make a huge mistake. Hope your doing well, thanks for the content.
Max kv ? The kv is based off how heavy your rc is and what type of running your doing it’s really impossible to answer that 🤷🏻♂️
The diff not being tight makes no sense at all i would still run the top brace with the plastic braces and ive ran the stock shafts for a while and havnt had any issues
Earl thx for the video....I have the stock motor on my Infraction v1, not the v2 model but I used the blue heatsink that GC sent me.... I don't like the odd blue color look bit it works. If I heard you correctly Sir, the 2x GC motor fans will work with the Arrma heatsink of the v1? I only need a few holes to line up for it to work.... thoughts?
I use one hole on the arrma heat sinks 👍👍
Great video your other stuff is on the way you wanted. 👊👊💯💯
You have to make your own brace on the front with a L shape to clear and fit into the front
Crazy flex just put my typhoons on and basher queen carbon bits on today and I just pushed the front brace to the right and the shaft clears Earl.
I'll buy the raz shafts off ya Earl?
Not selling them as I’ll try them on my speed car
Hey Earl I have been looking to get a motor for my infraction i will be using a MMX8 on a road course for racing would a 1520 or a 1717 be better, the race is a good 6 minute race and 4 races in the day. trying not to over power or over heat while it runs around the track but wanting that power to fly down the straight away
The 1717 geared right won’t run hot 👍
Them carbon drives look beefy wish they made some for the k8 or even the dog bones
Hey bud have you seen any of the new 22s drag cars that came out on the third batch? I just picked one up and wow what an improvement clean body lines straight spoiler
I got stickers on the body that were not on the first batch like badging and such . the rear taillights are red instead of clear and i have no idea what they have changed the car does not spin out while braking anymore like what the!! I got the 22s exotek vador carbon kit with a stand up trans mount and 22s 5.0 bulk head cant wait to get it together Hobbyshop is nearing completion!
Crazy they knew they had issues
@@earlmoorhead5555 yea and we paid for their mistakes $60 bucks more for them to go back and fix their issues its $459 now but im happy i needed another chassis was going to grab the roller but the t1 was available and i actually do not regret haha
I’ll call and find out what they will do for the first batch 👍👍👍
@@earlmoorhead5555 haha
@@earlmoorhead5555 Earl the more i look at them side by side the more differences i see i can not believe it its almost an entirely new car
Wheelie bar is straight and not curved downwards
Actual oil filled shocks on all four sides
Bump stops in the rear shocks
Tighter turn buckles
Alignment is almost spot on
Gear mesh is on point
Bodies have been cut and assembled properly with perfect wheel well cuts And most of all no more spin outs on braking
Im happy im filming to point out all the fixes very impressed well done losi took you a while third time round better late than never lol
Did you use flux before you tinned up the wires?
Yes that’s the can I’m soldering on
hey earl another great video. i have a question tho I just purchased an xlx2 and i calibrated it and everything. when i looked in the data log under the power out section 86% was the highest i did not 100%( and i had the trigger at 100% during the run). So i recalibrated the system again and slowly pulled back not in a jerking motion and went out for another quick rip and long story short im still at 86%. what am i doing wrong
Make sure before calibration the trims are at 0 for trigger and if your using and aftermarket remote you can adjust the trigger to 120 % to get to 100 % pulls if needed
@@earlmoorhead5555 thank you I got it working. I did two things I recalibrate my remote from the system settings and then I fixed my trim and set it to 0 and now I'm at 100%. Thank you for the help
Hey earl, it looks like the chassis is to thin it might add a bit more weight but even a carbon fibre chassis should be a bit thicker that’s the backbone of the car
The carbon chassis work great and don’t need support braces 👍👍
Why can't you just drill and tap a hole in the deck and one up top for that chassy brace?
I have a typhon don't know if I should get the 1717 or 1520 1650kv?
1520 should be fine for that weight but check the chart on the motor for weight
I like yours videos
Thanks 🙏
Me too....which I had his shop skills to solder and cut stuff....I should have taken shop class seriously in 7th grand Junior High...hell I am 50 now so I would have forgotten....LOL
hey earl does someone make a front and rear drive shafts for the stock limitless that fits with out sanding down the braces and is a up graded from the stock shafts? dont want to sand my braces. i have stock braces in mine. they work good . take care earl.
Scorched rc makes a kit that’s supposed to fit 👍
@@earlmoorhead5555 thanks earl i will look at them.
ah ok bud educational take care mike uk
Drives the castle 1520 1650kv hotter than the 1717 1650kv ?
I want to build a 100 mph basher infraction thats why my question witch runs cooler or it makes no difference ?
The 1520 should run hotter since it’s smaller.
Spacers under the center...lift it a tad
Not sure where the spacers your talking about but I have ne spacers under my mount and it’s high already?
Carbon all due wasn't at the edge, 1/3 away
Yes and the final 1/4 is tapered so I really don’t count that part as it will break a pin at the tapered part 👍
Sell the shafts to me.
He’s making more 👍👍