@@flashymonk12 yes, I have an avocado tree and have numerous videos on it. It is a Lila. This is one of my more recent videos. ua-cam.com/video/WzXTu57R0mY/v-deo.html This was from Plantogram, but Lowe’s has been selling Lila’s recently. They are gaining popularity.
@@TheMillennialGardener ....HI, SO I PURCHASED A 9 FT BARE-ROOT MIMOSA TREE (from TYTY nursery....) ....Anyway, I planted it back on March 29TH OF THIS YEAR, .......AND THERE IS STILL NO LEAF/OR BUD....I DID PERFORM THE BARK SCRATCH TEST AROUND April 30TH----THE CAMBIUM WAS GREEN!!!!!! .....BUT HERE IT IS """"""LATE MAY"""""" AN THERE IS NO LEAF/BUD......I AM THINKING ABOUT DOING ANOTHER SCRATCH TEST....BUT I GUES I AM A LITTLE NERVOUS OF THE RESULT.. .....ANOTHER REASON I AM CONCERNED, IS BECAUSE OF ALL THE """EXTREMELY NEGATIVE"""" REVIEWS FOR TYTY NURSERIES-------ONE VERY EXPERIENCED GARDENER INFORMED ME THAT MOST BARE ROOT TREES TAKE ALOT LONGER TO TRANSITION ....BECAUSE THEY'RE GROWING ALL NEW ROOTS.....AN ONCE THAT HAPPENS, THEN I SHOULD SEE SOME LEAVES......DO YOU AGREE.....???
@@OCKMEER hey Man, believe it or not, roots are EVERYTHING!!!!!! -honestly, I really dont like to purchase bare-root. I have a really good regimine when planting bareroot Trees, especially the 'taller' trees. which ALWAYS require more water. Its ALWAYS best to plant bareroot trees in the Fall/Winter, include a GOOD rich soil additive/compost/fertilizer/ to promote root growth---prior to planting, Soak the tree in luke warm water for a couple hours to replenish any lost water, Make sure the holes are 4 TIMES size!!---BUT please: Make sure you do "not" bury it 'below' the graft/soil level---with bareroot plants you just need to be much more 'meticulous' with the initial planting
@@OCKMEER Dude, I really hate to discourage you, I've purchased 7 Trees from TYTY Nurseries, only "ONE" lived!!!!!!---LOL. I mean, I am not like best gardener in the world, but I think I have a bit of a green thumb-My suggestion is to get a good fertilizer(Try "Holly Tone" though they are very adaptable, Mimosa's prefer the soil to be a little more on the Acidic side) An WATER@night!!!!! especially on hot days-If I kno TyTy Nursery, that poor Tree's roots were probably all butchered off---smmfh
Thank you for your video, you've saved me from throwing my Victoria Plum plant. I'm in my 2nd year of growing several fruit species and all bar the Vic Plums have leafed/budded this spring, particularly surprising as one of these fruit plants is my Japanese Black Amber Plum and they've thrived the UK winter better than a UK native!
Thank you from Texas!!! I will give this a try. That winter freeze we had has my figs looking sad but my crepe myrtles are growing okay and I did less to protect them. The figs already have suckers growing and looking healthy so I freaked since the main stalks aren't doing anything. Found this video and I will try the scratch and cutting back to see if I can kick start them.
Thank you so much for this video! Last year was the first year that I actually put my five-year-old Fig tree in the yard. I did cover it up with three layers and a tarp for the winter, but I noticed there was significant dry back anyway because it got record cold here too. I broke off a couple of tips that were Obviously dead. As I was watching you I was thinking about going out and trimming it back tomorrow. However there is a chance that there could be more frost in the evenings. So I thank you for commenting and that as well. I feel more confident going forward after this video. Appreciate your knowledge.
Great and timely video. I’m in zone 5B, and am trying to winter over a 8 year old fig tree that I have dug up and stored in the garage every winter prior to this one. The main trunk is very lignified so we will see how it goes. It’s well wrapped, but we did get down to near zero this winter so..... Anyway, appreciate the lesson and will be using the technique.
Much of the damage occurs from the desiccation as air condensing as frost and sucking the water out of the wood, so chances are it'll store better in the garage. Even if it freezes in there, it won't frost on the wood, so that helps a lot. Hopefully it makes it!
Thanks a ton. I got my young tree around August and our Texas freeze seemed to have killed it to the base. The cambium on the main stem isn't a vibrant green, but it's green. There's several branches at the base and it's growing at a good rate. I've been fertilizing it and put tree spikes. I'm considering pruning the only 2 branches it has soon since they look dry and the cambium is brown. They were mostly new wood.
Thank You. Exactly what I was looking for. My Meyer Lemon tree suffered a cold night. There are suckers/off shoots near the trunk. So, that's a good sign. Thanks again.
Great video, I have a Shell Pink Black Diamond Crepe Myrtle that suffered frost damage from the cold spell in February. It has new shoots at the base, but I need to test further up, the tree is only about 4ft tall.
Hi The Millennial Gardener: I'm living in Fl Zone 9b and just had a few days of temperatures in the teens. I grow several tropical fruit trees in pots which got heavily damaged. and I now know what I need to do to determine if they are still alive or not. Thank you! :)
Had to do this to 3 of mine. Had a 5 year in ground Celeste that was beautiful. But the -4 degrees killed it off to a stump. Thank you for the knowledge!
I know we are getting close to the outdoor growing season 2021 here...Th e Home Depot in Conshohocken has replaced the snow blowers with riding mowers...its a sure sign!!
Thank you so very much for this video. I was so scared that my fig tree was dead and I was going to have to remove her😢. Just went to do this test and found out she was still alive🥰🥰🥰. I’m so excited!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
Outstanding. Were you a victim of the terrible freeze a few weeks ago? Figs are very tough when they're dormant, and the roots can survive below 0 temps if the tree is well established and you mulch them.
@@TheMillennialGardener I live in Fairhope, Alabama so wasn’t part of the big freeze but we did have a few days in the low 20’s and upper teens. I wrapped three blankets around her. She still has a good bit of dieback but she is alive🥰. Sally didn’t help her much either. Had a good bit of damage that way, too.
@@TheMillennialGardener hello yes in south Texas it got sooo cold and all my citrus trees look sad brown leaves n crispy....i feel there is hope but my ignorant dad started chopping one intensely 😫
Thanks for the tip. We were hit pretty hard over here in Texas. My 4 avocado, 2 mango and my lime trees are probably dead, they were burnt even covered. I'm going to test them all, even though just by looking at them they look pretty much dead.
I wouldn’t judge too quickly. Give a scratch test on the trunk. Don’t remove any wood. You may be surprised that tries to come back in a month. These trees will naturally defoliate to try to recover, and looks can be deceiving. Don’t make any hasty moves.
Thanks for sharing this video it was definitely helpful! Although my fig trees here in central FL didn’t get any die back from the cold weather, my mango tree did end up getting a little die back this winter and thanks to your video now I have an idea of what to do.
I have been doing this lately, we should be close to no more freezes, late March early April should be safe here in north Georgia. I do see some die back though, everything in my garage looks good....a few outside got some. Good video and good information. Thanks
Similar to here. Lowest forecast low to mid-March is 41. If that’s the case, we may have seen our last chance of frost a month early. But easily, the polar vortex could break down again. It is still too soon to tell, but I’m optimistic.
Thanks for info, keep making these awesome videos. I live in south texas and my meyer lemon didn't make it the freeze even killed the root stock i couldn't find any green layer
That’s really surprising. Meyer’s are tough. They also aren’t usually grafted. Any chance it is a rooted cutting? If so, it can come back from the roots. I would still give it a couple weeks before making any decisions.
Very timely video. We got hit pretty hard in Central Texas and spent 3 days in single digits. Will use this guide for pruning. On a different subject, have you looked into JADAM or Korean Natural Farming? JADAM has pretty much the entire content of the book on their youtube channel, and is an ultra low cost organic farming method where all garden inputs are created. Interested in what you think of it, and how the principles might be implemented on a home gardening scale.
This was so informative, thank you! Would you also recommend I do the same with my ‘Linebacker’ distylium that suffered from a late cold snap after putting out new Spring growth? Many of the newer branches have turned brown and appear to be dead. The branches are also starting to flop because they are too long and heavy.
This winter was awful. Last year, I was hand pollinating my avocado in mid to late February. This year, we are on the back half of March and I don’t have a single flower open yet. My figs are far behind, too. I am a month behind where I was last year. It was a rough one, for sure. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video… Thank you. Just the information I was looking for. Could you also do a video on if Most of the plant is dead but there is green more towards the roots.
You'll simply just remove the dead wood until you find green like I did in this video. How far you have to go will vary based on the extent of the cold damage. It's entirely possible to lose all the above-ground wood and have to restart from the roots.
@@TheMillennialGardener it’s been crappy here in coastal MS too. Seems like we didn’t see the sun for several months. Cloudy, cool, wet. Grew lots of stink horns this winter 😂
@@moniquegebeline4350 what a year we've all had. It seems we can't catch a break! Oh well, today was 83 and gorgeously sunny, so I'll take any sunshine I can get these days.
@@TheMillennialGardener it was 85 here today but still, CLOUDY. I moved all my stuff outside a week ago and now we are getting another cold front Wednesday night into the low 40s 😂 bipolar Mother Nature! So everyone here says we are still in danger of an Easter frost /until the pecan trees begin budding (not yet 😭). And I haven’t seen any love bugs but the squeeter hawks have started. So- soon..... We are getting more rain too right now we have a gulf wind and ^humidity (91%)
I have several figs that had new growth but it’s been since February and they will not lignify. One of the trees has shriveled tips. The others have leaves growing but they are small. I’ve been moving the trees in and out, as the weather here in PA has been brutal. Quite cold. Had an unexpected snap last month as well. Temps are fluctuating from 80s down to mid 40s. Today we are in the 50s. The figs look so sad and did not get a good start. Can I cut back the new growth? Will I kill the plants? Should I just wait it out?
Hey!! 9a here.....i used your feeding schedule last year for my 7 trees. My 2 desert kings literally have 20+ figlets on every branch and they are growing every day! It's so exciting!!😁 when should I start up feeding them again? Should I feed just these 2 or should I just start feeding all 7 trees. I do see sins of the others waking up...green terminal buds and awoken figlet breba bumps...but no leaves like the desert kings. Thanks!!
That's great to hear. Have you seen my recent series on fertilizing? It goes through all the steps based on time of year: ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html The short answer is you should start immediately at last chance of freeze to give the fig tree help waking up and taking off like a rocket.
If it isn't bleeding, it's probably because sap flow hasn't returned yet. If the cambium is green, the tree should still be alive (unless it is actively dying back and hasn't reached that wood yet).
When is the best time to taking the winterization wrapping off my fig trees? Last week, it was 80. This week, it might snow/freezing rain with lows in the high 20s. Everything else is starting to bloom. Should I just take the wrapping off or wait another week?
I would wait for the freezing rain and snow to pass. Freezing rain can cause a lot of damage to fig trees. I would wait until it looks like your hard freezes are finished. At this point, it makes more sense to wait and not risk any dieback. In my experience, the most dangerous freezes are those really late ones that come in right before your last frost date because the tree starts to wake up and doesn't have the benefit of dormancy to protect it from freeze damage.
This video came just in time! My fig trees tip got all dried out and I was going to look up what to do. If I cut off the top, it won’t grow from there right? It will divide into two branches? 😔 That makes me sad, because I needed it to get taller. I am new at this. Thank you so much for the information!
Wherever you cut it, somewhere between 2-5 nodes underneath that cut will bud out. They will all try to grow up. What you'd want to do is pinch off all the buds except one and select that as the new leader. It will still grow up but with a slight hump in the trunk. In time, as the caliper of the tree expands, it'll become less and less noticeable. All my espaliered trees were headed, so they have that hump. It isn't a big deal and adds a touch of character.
That will tell you if there is dieback. That being said, do not prune any of your trees until winter is over. We surely have more cold coming, and old, dead wood can actually protect the trees. If you cut them back now, they'll be more susceptible to further damage.
Fig trees are deciduous. They lose their leaves every winter like a maple tree would. They are dormant. "Dead" means there is no green visible when you peel away the bark. If the cambium is green immediately under the bark, they're fine and will wake up in spring.
Great info! When is it safe to unwrap the fig trees in the spring? Should I wait till after the last frost date or longer? I've seen videos where it looks like other trees are leafing out when they are unwrapping their fig trees. I'm in zone 6
@@elizabethfigarola2512 yes the tree is in ground this is the second winter. I didn't wrap it last year and it died back close to the ground. Last fall I wrapped tar paper, filled with dry leaves and topped with black garbage bag.
So I have a question that wasn’t addressed in the video. I have 2 plants that were tiny tissue culture plants in late summer and they didn’t get very large. They did have decent root systems- if the trunk of a younger small plant dies back from cold could a healthy root system push up new growth?
@@TheMillennialGardener figs doll. One was my violette 😡 and I don’t remember the other variety off hand. They were TINY when I received them i think it was late aug/sept (a bad time to get figs but I thought they’d grow quick enough for me). They were only maybe 6-8 inches by winter. They were kept in a (non climate controlled) garage with a space heater, so it was probably in the high 40s in there during the cold snap (we went down to 17 but had many nights in the 30s). The others are all waking up except those 2.
Nice video! But I am not so sure, that it was a cambium (the green thing), that you scrached out from under thin outer bark (periderm). Most trees don't have green cambium, it is often whitish or almost translucent (especially in the spring, at the time of the most intense growth), usually only single cell layer thick. Usually that green thing is a phloem under the outer cork. Inbetween the phloem and the periderm is pericambium, that produces cork, but pericambium is usually even thinner layer (smaller cells) than cambium. Maybe figs are different, I haven't debarked any thicker fig branches or studied a cross section of a fig branch under microscope.
If you scrape past the bark and see green, the tree is alive. Figs have very thin bark. So do persimmons, citrus, pears, apples and a lot of other fruit trees. They don’t have thick bark layers like pine and oak.
@@TheMillennialGardener I know, what the bark of figs or citruses looks like. I just haven't looked it under microscope. The question was if that green thing under the surface is actually a cambium or nor. You said, that the same green "cambium" scraping method is applicable for other fruit trees also. I know for sure, that apples, pears, cherrys and plums don't have green cambium. Cambium is the layer, that is exposed when all the bark is removed, not just the outer thin layer of the bark.
Austin Texas got hit hard; the trees aren't used to that kind of cold. Full size trees even had major damage. Worst I saw was a 16" diameter tree that looked like someone put explosives in it; it was destroyed. Most of my trees survived well, but two had die back. A 15 ft elm tree and a 25 ft Monterrey oak, both are growing leaves in the bottom half but the top half is probably dead.
I don't think watering my trees more would help... it's already pretty waterlogged here. I'm still not sure what's going on with my tree, but it appears to be dying.
![5 Reasons Your Fruit Trees AREN'T GROWING [And How To FIX It]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FWsaiKgCXFY/mqdefault.jpg)
Did you suffer any cold damage in the recent historic freeze? Let us know in the Comments below.
Historic freeze? It got all the way down to 28 in Seattle.
@@justinfiorini3142 it wasn't the entire country. It was much of the country. 50% of the land mass of the country was crushed.
@@TheMillennialGardener I'm aware, it was a joke.
@@TheMillennialGardener Do you plant avocados as well and if so where do you purchase your plants from?
@@flashymonk12 yes, I have an avocado tree and have numerous videos on it. It is a Lila. This is one of my more recent videos. ua-cam.com/video/WzXTu57R0mY/v-deo.html This was from Plantogram, but Lowe’s has been selling Lila’s recently. They are gaining popularity.
Thanks for the video. I didn’t realize that the tree literally dehydrated during a freeze. Good info.
That's basically what happens. That's why they get crispy and brown. It's like putting them in a food dehydrator.
@@TheMillennialGardener ....HI, SO I PURCHASED A 9 FT BARE-ROOT MIMOSA TREE (from TYTY nursery....) ....Anyway, I planted it back on March 29TH OF THIS YEAR, .......AND THERE IS STILL NO LEAF/OR BUD....I DID PERFORM THE BARK SCRATCH TEST AROUND April 30TH----THE CAMBIUM WAS GREEN!!!!!! .....BUT HERE IT IS """"""LATE MAY"""""" AN THERE IS NO LEAF/BUD......I AM THINKING ABOUT DOING ANOTHER SCRATCH TEST....BUT I GUES I AM A LITTLE NERVOUS OF THE RESULT.. .....ANOTHER REASON I AM CONCERNED, IS BECAUSE OF ALL THE """EXTREMELY NEGATIVE"""" REVIEWS FOR TYTY NURSERIES-------ONE VERY EXPERIENCED GARDENER INFORMED ME THAT MOST BARE ROOT TREES TAKE ALOT LONGER TO TRANSITION ....BECAUSE THEY'RE GROWING ALL NEW ROOTS.....AN ONCE THAT HAPPENS, THEN I SHOULD SEE SOME LEAVES......DO YOU AGREE.....???
@@OCKMEER hey Man, believe it or not, roots are EVERYTHING!!!!!! -honestly, I really dont like to purchase bare-root. I have a really good regimine when planting bareroot Trees, especially the 'taller' trees. which ALWAYS require more water. Its ALWAYS best to plant bareroot trees in the Fall/Winter, include a GOOD rich soil additive/compost/fertilizer/ to promote root growth---prior to planting, Soak the tree in luke warm water for a couple hours to replenish any lost water, Make sure the holes are 4 TIMES size!!---BUT please: Make sure you do "not" bury it 'below' the graft/soil level---with bareroot plants you just need to be much more 'meticulous' with the initial planting
@@OCKMEER Dude, I really hate to discourage you, I've purchased 7 Trees from TYTY Nurseries, only "ONE" lived!!!!!!---LOL. I mean, I am not like best gardener in the world, but I think I have a bit of a green thumb-My suggestion is to get a good fertilizer(Try "Holly Tone" though they are very adaptable, Mimosa's prefer the soil to be a little more on the Acidic side) An WATER@night!!!!! especially on hot days-If I kno TyTy Nursery, that poor Tree's roots were probably all butchered off---smmfh
@@OCKMEER tyty??? ohhhhh sh!t. if I were you, like King Solomon says, get your money back--ASAP!
Thank you for your video, you've saved me from throwing my Victoria Plum plant. I'm in my 2nd year of growing several fruit species and all bar the Vic Plums have leafed/budded this spring, particularly surprising as one of these fruit plants is my Japanese Black Amber Plum and they've thrived the UK winter better than a UK native!
Thanks for the tips. It'll be helpful when assessing the cold damage from the Christmas cold snap here in Louisiana.
Thank you from Texas!!! I will give this a try. That winter freeze we had has my figs looking sad but my crepe myrtles are growing okay and I did less to protect them. The figs already have suckers growing and looking healthy so I freaked since the main stalks aren't doing anything. Found this video and I will try the scratch and cutting back to see if I can kick start them.
Thank you so much for this video! Last year was the first year that I actually put my five-year-old Fig tree in the yard. I did cover it up with three layers and a tarp for the winter, but I noticed there was significant dry back anyway because it got record cold here too. I broke off a couple of tips that were Obviously dead. As I was watching you I was thinking about going out and trimming it back tomorrow. However there is a chance that there could be more frost in the evenings. So I thank you for commenting and that as well. I feel more confident going forward after this video. Appreciate your knowledge.
Great and timely video. I’m in zone 5B, and am trying to winter over a 8 year old fig tree that I have dug up and stored in the garage every winter prior to this one. The main trunk is very lignified so we will see how it goes. It’s well wrapped, but we did get down to near zero this winter so..... Anyway, appreciate the lesson and will be using the technique.
Much of the damage occurs from the desiccation as air condensing as frost and sucking the water out of the wood, so chances are it'll store better in the garage. Even if it freezes in there, it won't frost on the wood, so that helps a lot. Hopefully it makes it!
Thanks a ton. I got my young tree around August and our Texas freeze seemed to have killed it to the base. The cambium on the main stem isn't a vibrant green, but it's green. There's several branches at the base and it's growing at a good rate.
I've been fertilizing it and put tree spikes. I'm considering pruning the only 2 branches it has soon since they look dry and the cambium is brown. They were mostly new wood.
Thank You. Exactly what I was looking for. My Meyer Lemon tree suffered a cold night. There are suckers/off shoots near the trunk. So, that's a good sign. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful. I hope your tree is doing well.
Great video, I have a Shell Pink Black Diamond Crepe Myrtle that suffered frost damage from the cold spell in February. It has new shoots at the base, but I need to test further up, the tree is only about 4ft tall.
Hi The Millennial Gardener: I'm living in Fl Zone 9b and just had a few days of temperatures in the teens. I grow several tropical fruit trees in pots which got heavily damaged. and I now know what I need to do to determine if they are still alive or not. Thank you! :)
Great video and exactly what I was wanting to know. Thank you❤
Had to do this to 3 of mine. Had a 5 year in ground Celeste that was beautiful. But the -4 degrees killed it off to a stump. Thank you for the knowledge!
I know we are getting close to the outdoor growing season 2021 here...Th e Home Depot in Conshohocken has replaced the snow blowers with riding mowers...its a sure sign!!
I used to work on Alan Wood Road. Small world 😅
That's like the retail version of robins and hummingbirds showing up.
Thank you so very much for this video. I was so scared that my fig tree was dead and I was going to have to remove her😢. Just went to do this test and found out she was still alive🥰🥰🥰. I’m so excited!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
Outstanding. Were you a victim of the terrible freeze a few weeks ago? Figs are very tough when they're dormant, and the roots can survive below 0 temps if the tree is well established and you mulch them.
@@TheMillennialGardener I live in Fairhope, Alabama so wasn’t part of the big freeze but we did have a few days in the low 20’s and upper teens. I wrapped three blankets around her. She still has a good bit of dieback but she is alive🥰. Sally didn’t help her much either. Had a good bit of damage that way, too.
@@TheMillennialGardener hello yes in south Texas it got sooo cold and all my citrus trees look sad brown leaves n crispy....i feel there is hope but my ignorant dad started chopping one intensely 😫
Thanks for the tip. We were hit pretty hard over here in Texas. My 4 avocado, 2 mango and my lime trees are probably dead, they were burnt even covered. I'm going to test them all, even though just by looking at them they look pretty much dead.
I wouldn’t judge too quickly. Give a scratch test on the trunk. Don’t remove any wood. You may be surprised that tries to come back in a month. These trees will naturally defoliate to try to recover, and looks can be deceiving. Don’t make any hasty moves.
Very helpfull video. Thank you very much and greetings from Poland :)
Thanks for sharing this video it was definitely helpful! Although my fig trees here in central FL didn’t get any die back from the cold weather, my mango tree did end up getting a little die back this winter and thanks to your video now I have an idea of what to do.
A mango in Central Florida is certainly prone to that. Sounds like a fairly easy pruning come March, though. Thanks for watching!
Did you get text ?
I have been doing this lately, we should be close to no more freezes, late March early April should be safe here in north Georgia. I do see some die back though, everything in my garage looks good....a few outside got some. Good video and good information. Thanks
Similar to here. Lowest forecast low to mid-March is 41. If that’s the case, we may have seen our last chance of frost a month early. But easily, the polar vortex could break down again. It is still too soon to tell, but I’m optimistic.
What a great informative video. You have taught me something new today. Thank you from England 😀
Thanks for watching from across the pond!
Thanks. Exactly what was I was looking for.
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for info, keep making these awesome videos. I live in south texas and my meyer lemon didn't make it the freeze even killed the root stock i couldn't find any green layer
That’s really surprising. Meyer’s are tough. They also aren’t usually grafted. Any chance it is a rooted cutting? If so, it can come back from the roots. I would still give it a couple weeks before making any decisions.
Very timely video. We got hit pretty hard in Central Texas and spent 3 days in single digits. Will use this guide for pruning. On a different subject, have you looked into JADAM or Korean Natural Farming? JADAM has pretty much the entire content of the book on their youtube channel, and is an ultra low cost organic farming method where all garden inputs are created. Interested in what you think of it, and how the principles might be implemented on a home gardening scale.
Thanks. I have not heard of them, no. It isn’t something I’m aware of.
This was so informative, thank you! Would you also recommend I do the same with my ‘Linebacker’ distylium that suffered from a late cold snap after putting out new Spring growth? Many of the newer branches have turned brown and appear to be dead. The branches are also starting to flop because they are too long and heavy.
As always great informative video. This winter has been a beast for a lot of folks.
This winter was awful. Last year, I was hand pollinating my avocado in mid to late February. This year, we are on the back half of March and I don’t have a single flower open yet. My figs are far behind, too. I am a month behind where I was last year. It was a rough one, for sure. Thanks for watching.
Great and informative video! Thank you so much for this!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This is exactly what i needed thank you so so so so much 😘🙌🏽
Thanks for watching!
Great simple video!
Thanks! Thanks for watching.
My early blooms this year froze off on some persimmon sapplings. Can I trim them now that spring has arrived? Or wait until next year? Thanks!
Excellent video… Thank you. Just the information I was looking for. Could you also do a video on if Most of the plant is dead but there is green more towards the roots.
You'll simply just remove the dead wood until you find green like I did in this video. How far you have to go will vary based on the extent of the cold damage. It's entirely possible to lose all the above-ground wood and have to restart from the roots.
Very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Great tip! Thanks
You’re welcome!
I’m in Greenville NC and I can say we did get substantial amount of rain this year...
I’ve accumulated well over a foot since the calendar rolled over. And more is on the way. Looks like it is going to be a rainy week 😔
@@TheMillennialGardener yes very much so😂
@@TheMillennialGardener it’s been crappy here in coastal MS too. Seems like we didn’t see the sun for several months. Cloudy, cool, wet. Grew lots of stink horns this winter 😂
@@moniquegebeline4350 what a year we've all had. It seems we can't catch a break! Oh well, today was 83 and gorgeously sunny, so I'll take any sunshine I can get these days.
@@TheMillennialGardener it was 85 here today but still, CLOUDY. I moved all my stuff outside a week ago and now we are getting another cold front Wednesday night into the low 40s 😂 bipolar Mother Nature!
So everyone here says we are still in danger of an Easter frost /until the pecan trees begin budding (not yet 😭). And I haven’t seen any love bugs but the squeeter hawks have started. So- soon.....
We are getting more rain too right now we have a gulf wind and ^humidity (91%)
I have several figs that had new growth but it’s been since February and they will not lignify. One of the trees has shriveled tips. The others have leaves growing but they are small. I’ve been moving the trees in and out, as the weather here in PA has been brutal. Quite cold. Had an unexpected snap last month as well. Temps are fluctuating from 80s down to mid 40s. Today we are in the 50s. The figs look so sad and did not get a good start.
Can I cut back the new growth? Will I kill the plants? Should I just wait it out?
Hey!! 9a here.....i used your feeding schedule last year for my 7 trees. My 2 desert kings literally have 20+ figlets on every branch and they are growing every day! It's so exciting!!😁 when should I start up feeding them again? Should I feed just these 2 or should I just start feeding all 7 trees. I do see sins of the others waking up...green terminal buds and awoken figlet breba bumps...but no leaves like the desert kings. Thanks!!
That's great to hear. Have you seen my recent series on fertilizing? It goes through all the steps based on time of year: ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
The short answer is you should start immediately at last chance of freeze to give the fig tree help waking up and taking off like a rocket.
.
No I.havent seen the.newest....ill check it out! Thanks!
@@dizazati8627 you’re welcome.
It's green underneath but cutting a piece on the top it's completely dry, no bleeding or anything, is that normal? Great video!
If it isn't bleeding, it's probably because sap flow hasn't returned yet. If the cambium is green, the tree should still be alive (unless it is actively dying back and hasn't reached that wood yet).
When is the best time to taking the winterization wrapping off my fig trees? Last week, it was 80. This week, it might snow/freezing rain with lows in the high 20s. Everything else is starting to bloom. Should I just take the wrapping off or wait another week?
I would wait for the freezing rain and snow to pass. Freezing rain can cause a lot of damage to fig trees. I would wait until it looks like your hard freezes are finished. At this point, it makes more sense to wait and not risk any dieback. In my experience, the most dangerous freezes are those really late ones that come in right before your last frost date because the tree starts to wake up and doesn't have the benefit of dormancy to protect it from freeze damage.
This video came just in time! My fig trees tip got all dried out and I was going to look up what to do. If I cut off the top, it won’t grow from there right? It will divide into two branches? 😔 That makes me sad, because I needed it to get taller. I am new at this. Thank you so much for the information!
Wherever you cut it, somewhere between 2-5 nodes underneath that cut will bud out. They will all try to grow up. What you'd want to do is pinch off all the buds except one and select that as the new leader. It will still grow up but with a slight hump in the trunk. In time, as the caliper of the tree expands, it'll become less and less noticeable. All my espaliered trees were headed, so they have that hump. It isn't a big deal and adds a touch of character.
You can train it to be a tall tree by removing all but 1 of the tops.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you so much for answering my question, I really appreciate it!
@@420......... Thanks!
@@lettucegobackinthyme1075 you’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
I am going to do this on my three citrus trees that have suffered cold damage.
That will tell you if there is dieback. That being said, do not prune any of your trees until winter is over. We surely have more cold coming, and old, dead wood can actually protect the trees. If you cut them back now, they'll be more susceptible to further damage.
Thank You 🙏
You're welcome!
Hi, did not cover my fig trees and they seem quite dead! Will they come back ?
Fig trees are deciduous. They lose their leaves every winter like a maple tree would. They are dormant. "Dead" means there is no green visible when you peel away the bark. If the cambium is green immediately under the bark, they're fine and will wake up in spring.
Great info! When is it safe to unwrap the fig trees in the spring? Should I wait till after the last frost date or longer? I've seen videos where it looks like other trees are leafing out when they are unwrapping their fig trees. I'm in zone 6
Wow zone 6
Can you unwrap your self ?
@@elizabethfigarola2512 yes the tree is in ground this is the second winter. I didn't wrap it last year and it died back close to the ground. Last fall I wrapped tar paper, filled with dry leaves and topped with black garbage bag.
@@sherrymilen1346 wow
Amazing
@@sherrymilen1346 2 0 2 6 9 5 8 8 2 1
If you don’t cut back the cold damage does the damage travel down the tree?
What about the changing and watering the earth?
So I have a question that wasn’t addressed in the video. I have 2 plants that were tiny tissue culture plants in late summer and they didn’t get very large. They did have decent root systems- if the trunk of a younger small plant dies back from cold could a healthy root system push up new growth?
It depends on the plant. What variety of plant is it?
@@TheMillennialGardener figs doll. One was my violette 😡 and I don’t remember the other variety off hand. They were TINY when I received them i think it was late aug/sept (a bad time to get figs but I thought they’d grow quick enough for me). They were only maybe 6-8 inches by winter. They were kept in a (non climate controlled) garage with a space heater, so it was probably in the high 40s in there during the cold snap (we went down to 17 but had many nights in the 30s).
The others are all waking up except those 2.
Nice video! But I am not so sure, that it was a cambium (the green thing), that you scrached out from under thin outer bark (periderm). Most trees don't have green cambium, it is often whitish or almost translucent (especially in the spring, at the time of the most intense growth), usually only single cell layer thick. Usually that green thing is a phloem under the outer cork. Inbetween the phloem and the periderm is pericambium, that produces cork, but pericambium is usually even thinner layer (smaller cells) than cambium. Maybe figs are different, I haven't debarked any thicker fig branches or studied a cross section of a fig branch under microscope.
If you scrape past the bark and see green, the tree is alive. Figs have very thin bark. So do persimmons, citrus, pears, apples and a lot of other fruit trees. They don’t have thick bark layers like pine and oak.
@@TheMillennialGardener I know, what the bark of figs or citruses looks like. I just haven't looked it under microscope. The question was if that green thing under the surface is actually a cambium or nor. You said, that the same green "cambium" scraping method is applicable for other fruit trees also. I know for sure, that apples, pears, cherrys and plums don't have green cambium. Cambium is the layer, that is exposed when all the bark is removed, not just the outer thin layer of the bark.
My fig is red at the tip of some branches- what does he need?
I'm not sure what you mean. A photo would help.
Austin Texas got hit hard; the trees aren't used to that kind of cold. Full size trees even had major damage. Worst I saw was a 16" diameter tree that looked like someone put explosives in it; it was destroyed. Most of my trees survived well, but two had die back. A 15 ft elm tree and a 25 ft Monterrey oak, both are growing leaves in the bottom half but the top half is probably dead.
Pruning back also releases growth hormones
I don't think watering my trees more would help... it's already pretty waterlogged here.
I'm still not sure what's going on with my tree, but it appears to be dying.
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching.
Are you going to root prune your older trees this year?
Yes, within the next few weeks.