It wasn't really a video I needed to watch. More so curious what information you planned to share. You definitely covered everything possible to help anyone undertake this job. As part of my business I was previously involved in engine reconditioning, more so rebuilding Motorcycle engines. I did enjoy the work. But, found that even though it was personally satisfying it wasn't exactly financially rewarding ??? Another, Very Good video from you guys👍👍
Really enjoy watching you guys work through the challenges! Maybe a future project you could do something like this but for an old Slant 6 or Stovebolt or even SBC/SBF though that would be a lot more fabrication. Really looking forward to you firing up this beast.
GR8T Job! I feel like I learned something that was a "Secret of Kings"... Very COoL. What gearhead on a budget would not Sub to this channel? Try and stop me! This channel is my new drug of choice :O)
congratulations guys, great video! I observed one thing, when you use a reamer, you make the first entry from the combustion chamber side, but then you changed, you did it from the tappet side. what is the correct condition?, I await your response, hello and thank you.
When you fit new guides they are never 100% true to the seat. A few thou at the guide can make it 10 thou at the seat. Lapping the valve it just won’t cut it. You need to get the head to a machine shop to cut the seats to give a 100% seal at the seat.
I know you'll have to get custom cams made, and that only requires $$$. But I've never seen custom head gaskets before........are you going to o-ring the heads or something like that?
@@brysonshires9742 there are differences in the 2v vs 4v heads, but only slightly. I think the 3v is the same as the 2v and 4v though. They should be able to use the v10 stock gaskets. I believe the cooling ports on a 4v are the same for 2v except maybe one at the front of the head. I don't know that for sure. I did a 4v head swap years ago on a 2v block and used a 2v gasket. I had no issues with it.
Yup, both the v10 2v or 3v would work. There’s two thicknesses we can choose from 0.040” or 0.050”. We’ll be going with the 0.050” for our build. The other difference between the 2v and 3v gaskets is the size of the holes for the coolant ports. For the 3v gasket, some of the holes are either not there or smaller than the 2v gasket. We’ll most likely use 3v gaskets.
The exhaust should be looser, those valves get hot, they will expand more than intake will. When your talking .0015 to .0018, I'd shoot for a larger clearance.
OLÁ. Sinceramente eu esperava que entendessem de troca de guias É lastimável mas Vosso atraso Técnico é de mais de 20 anos. Sugiro procurar a Liquid Carbonic ou um bom curso referente a aplicação do "tratamento antagônico". ABRAÇOS Roberto Udo Krapf.
So you say you would put heat on the head to ease the extraction of the guide. Wouldn’t that expand the aluminium and put more pressure on the guide? I would have thought that cooling the guide to contract it would make more sense.
It wasn't really a video I needed to watch.
More so curious what information you planned to share.
You definitely covered everything possible to help anyone undertake this job.
As part of my business I was previously involved in engine reconditioning, more so rebuilding Motorcycle engines.
I did enjoy the work.
But, found that even though it was personally satisfying it wasn't exactly financially rewarding ???
Another, Very Good video from you guys👍👍
Excellent Tutorial. I have a much better understanding of the process.
Really enjoy watching you guys work through the challenges! Maybe a future project you could do something like this but for an old Slant 6 or Stovebolt or even SBC/SBF though that would be a lot more fabrication. Really looking forward to you firing up this beast.
lol a series 4v the world
Thanks alot for this video! Very comprehensive and easy to follow.
You should try uploading shorts. The work you do is stellar but hasn't reached enough people yet.
Thank you! We have considered it and we're thinking about putting out some shorts in the future!
the way you take the reamer out of the guide is your own thing? super easy to watch, the story flows like a river, great job!
Great work guys. I learnt a lot.
This thing is gonna be a monster.
Thank You very much, wonderful job. 👏🏻
Great instructional guys, thank you!
This was a super informative and interesting video.
Excellent presentation. Thank you.
Very good info guys!
Very very nice video many thanks
100% view percentage over here, gotta help the algorithm
Great vid! Enjoyed the info! Just subscribed
Excellent explanation an instruction
Where did you purchase the valve guides, reamers and brushes?
GR8T Job! I feel like I learned something that was a "Secret of Kings"... Very COoL. What gearhead on a budget would not Sub to this channel? Try and stop me! This channel is my new drug of choice :O)
I hope y'all wind up putting this in a gt40 replica, something deserving of the v10!
It’s definitely going in something unique! We’re pumped to reveal the car to everyone soon!
Part numbers on all the tools?
congratulations guys, great video! I observed one thing, when you use a reamer, you make the first entry from the combustion chamber side, but then you changed, you did it from the tappet side. what is the correct condition?, I await your response, hello and thank you.
Don’t forget to get the valve seats cut after fitting new guides.
Why’s that
Completely uneccessary, makes no sense
@@ghj1502completely necessary as you will struggle to get a good valve seal.
@@andrewlindley8209 why not just lap the valves if they are cut in the same angle as the seat?
When you fit new guides they are never 100% true to the seat. A few thou at the guide can make it 10 thou at the seat. Lapping the valve it just won’t cut it. You need to get the head to a machine shop to cut the seats to give a 100% seal at the seat.
I know you'll have to get custom cams made, and that only requires $$$.
But I've never seen custom head gaskets before........are you going to o-ring the heads or something like that?
you dont think the 3v headgaskets would be identical?
@@brysonshires9742 there are differences in the 2v vs 4v heads, but only slightly. I think the 3v is the same as the 2v and 4v though. They should be able to use the v10 stock gaskets. I believe the cooling ports on a 4v are the same for 2v except maybe one at the front of the head. I don't know that for sure. I did a 4v head swap years ago on a 2v block and used a 2v gasket. I had no issues with it.
@@brysonshires9742 Of course.....brain fart....
Yup, both the v10 2v or 3v would work. There’s two thicknesses we can choose from 0.040” or 0.050”. We’ll be going with the 0.050” for our build. The other difference between the 2v and 3v gaskets is the size of the holes for the coolant ports. For the 3v gasket, some of the holes are either not there or smaller than the 2v gasket. We’ll most likely use 3v gaskets.
The exhaust should be looser, those valves get hot, they will expand more than intake will. When your talking .0015 to .0018, I'd shoot for a larger clearance.
Do you guys have a list of the exact tools that you used for this video for the ford dohc 4.6?
Where did you purchase the bronze valve guides
We bought the valve guides from MMR
OLÁ. Sinceramente eu esperava que entendessem de troca de guias É lastimável mas Vosso atraso Técnico é de mais de 20 anos. Sugiro procurar a Liquid Carbonic ou um bom curso referente a aplicação do "tratamento antagônico". ABRAÇOS Roberto Udo Krapf.
Very good info!
what is the part number for the driver you are using?
I am working on a ford 4.6 and curious where you guys got you valve guides from?
We got the guides from MMR
So you say you would put heat on the head to ease the extraction of the guide. Wouldn’t that expand the aluminium and put more pressure on the guide? I would have thought that cooling the guide to contract it would make more sense.
It’s more of a heat penetrating not expanding
10cyl ford 4.6….