How to Replace an RV Tail Light to LED
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- How to Replace an RV Tail Light to LED Easy as can be. just watch your wire connections, I can't believe they do not use the same color-coded wires coming out
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Angelo, you made my day! I was replacing my taillights with the exact same ones you have. I was at a loss as to what connected to what. My Outdoors Creekside is wired exactly the same right down to the fat green wire. You saved me loads of time since my trailer was not situated so I could connect to it with the truck. Thank goodness I didn't find any black electrical tape. They used wire nuts (crimped). I remembered your mistake cutting the wires short. So I had plenty to work with. Yup, the holes didn't line up exactly, but I used one to hold the light in place and had the self tapping screws do the rest. Well done!
Thanks for the video, I need to replace my tailgate light with LEDs. Backing into a mailbox help me make that decision. I also need to install a backup camera next.
😅
Very thorough! Thanks.
And, boy, it's sad to see that the manufacturers of RVs are still so slapdash. I am in the process of completely re-building a 1974 aluminum pull-behind trailer camper. When I bought it, I had not planned to COMPLETELY re-build it, though I knew it was in rough shape, but the further I got into it, the more I saw that it was nearly a lost cause, and that's because of the way it was originally built: poor wiring choices, poor sealing, almost insane plumbing, and made to NOT be easily repairable, with huge staples holding it all together. Nearly all of those staples were shot into the structure from angles that made it easy, I suppose, for the builders, but impossible to get into without basically ripping the whole thing apart! The thing is, most of the rot and failure I've found (and it's everywhere) was not due to anything other than the shoddy construction, which let water get in all over the thing, not from the outside, but through the poorly installed plumbing, and terrible sealing of pipes: fresh, gray, and black. Yuck.
Still, it's become a challenge I refuse to let go of. I've torn out all the insides other than some of the framing, and I removed the aluminum shell from the trailer and floor. I recently finished re-framing and re-flooring the trailer, and will now re-attach the shell. It's going to be much better than new once I'm done, and I just ordered new LED lighting all around. And NO electrical tape will be used in the installation process! Sheesh!!
I'm getting ready to change my tail lights over to LEDS
I wonder if this swap will work on something as old as the Tioga 1990 that im redoing would work ? Id love to swap out the old for the new !
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Why not just replace the bulbs?
Why didn't you solder the wires then use shrink tape for your connections
That is the best, but not necessary. It's protected by the light, which is silicone sealed. The but connector like that, the connection will last longer than the led light. Think about it. My Camaro has a fuse block under the dash. Where the fuse goes into the fuse spot, there is no heat shrink tubing around it. Does not even have dielectric grease on them. The wire behind the fuse block where it crimps to the terminals does not even have heat shrink around the crimp. No need.
Now, if you have a wire harness under the trailer, where you can see it, and is hanging down, and could get wet, there you should use solder and a heat shrink, or a crimp and heat shrink, to seal it from rain splash.
I just bought new lights but the new lights have blue wire and the rv has no blue but a green wire. Zero paperwork with the new lights
Just test it. Regular bulbs work either way, but led, the positive must be on the positive, and the ground needs to go to ground.
Bulb lights are half the price of LEDs, they make more profit that way.
Dude, it took you forever to finally get to the tutorial. WAY too much BS. After 7 minutes of you bitching about the wiring and the burnt plastic, I had to find another video.