Wow, that is one sick adapter! Definitely the oldest 22 Watt adapter I’ve ever seen. Those 20 W linear fixtures you were talking about I’m pretty sure I referred to as “kitchen units”, and I would almost dare say that adapter you have right there could almost classify as one as well. 20 W linear tube kitchen unit seem to be the most common, I actually happen to have an interesting interesting single foot three lamp half pipe variant which seems to be extremely uncommon. Someday I should shoot a video of it.
I also have a 22W T9 preheat circline fluorescent adapter similar to this one and decided to replace the ballast with an Advance LC-25-TP ballast in order to allow the lamp to run at full power on a 120V 60Hz supply since the original Robertson SP2 ballast underdrove the lamp quite a bit. I also like how they have replaceable P21 base starters. An interesting fact about the base designation of 2 pin fluorescent starters is that while most countries do bot have an official base designation for the standard 2 pin twist lock starter base, Japan somehow gives these fluorescent starters the “P21” designation for standard 2 pin starters.
It is actually a ceiling fixture that was made into an adapter. You can see the mounting hole in the back made to fit a 3-1/4 inch or a 4 inch octagon or round box. This is early 1950’s. The 22 watt 8 inch and 40 watt 16 inch diameters circline lamps appeared on the market in 1952, and the 32 watt 12 inch diameter lamp was put on the mary in 1945. The potted GE choke/reactor ballast is a late 1940’s to late 1950’s item, so most likely made between 1952 and about 1958. Usually the actual specs for them are on the backing plate of the ballast, earlier ones with a paper label, lager ones stamped into the metal. The number you see is the order code. Ad for the brittle rubber/cloth wires on old ballasts, just be sure the wire isn’t touching the inside of the hole in the case of the ballasts and apply good quality clear or white RTV in a squeeze tube package around tge wires and onto the case, and up on the wires a bit and let it set up. Be sure the ballast case is clean so it sticks well to hold and insulate the wires, and apply and shrink heat shrink tubing up to where the wires are still flexible and use the ballasts. I do it a lot. Works fine. The lamp is not pronounced “Circ-YOU-Line” but merely “Circ-Line.” Nice adapter, it is a very early one! Also, one more Circline bulb was the 20 watt 6 inch diameter one introduced in 1977. Cheers!
Another nice application for these circline fluorescent adapters would include a long chain swag lamp or a ceiling mounted pendant lamp if the shade is large enough.
Got a few PL adaptors, that are a magnetic ballast in a case, that has a B22D base on it, and which will operate any self starting PL lamp from PL7 to PL10, and gives a good lamp life. Ballast will have a date stamp in ink under the ballast, the top stamping is a part number, and you will also likely will also find there is another rubber stamped ink number under the ballast on the actual base as well, showing the assembly date of the fixture as well.
@@SeanBZA I also have a GE OWL incandescent to high pressure sodium conversion adapter in my collection as well and it uses 35W S76 high pressure sodium lamps.
OH!! The ITT lamp is made by Sylvania, and not original. It is a replacement. The original was probably a GE. The ITT ones are pretty scarce. Too bad it is crap 4150 K headache inducing COOL WHITE, thouhj. 😫
Wow, that is one sick adapter! Definitely the oldest 22 Watt adapter I’ve ever seen. Those 20 W linear fixtures you were talking about I’m pretty sure I referred to as “kitchen units”, and I would almost dare say that adapter you have right there could almost classify as one as well. 20 W linear tube kitchen unit seem to be the most common, I actually happen to have an interesting interesting single foot three lamp half pipe variant which seems to be extremely uncommon. Someday I should shoot a video of it.
I also have a 22W T9 preheat circline fluorescent adapter similar to this one and decided to replace the ballast with an Advance LC-25-TP ballast in order to allow the lamp to run at full power on a 120V 60Hz supply since the original Robertson SP2 ballast underdrove the lamp quite a bit. I also like how they have replaceable P21 base starters.
An interesting fact about the base designation of 2 pin fluorescent starters is that while most countries do bot have an official base designation for the standard 2 pin twist lock starter base, Japan somehow gives these fluorescent starters the “P21” designation for standard 2 pin starters.
It is actually a ceiling fixture that was made into an adapter. You can see the mounting hole in the back made to fit a 3-1/4 inch or a 4 inch octagon or round box. This is early 1950’s. The 22 watt 8 inch and 40 watt 16 inch diameters circline lamps appeared on the market in 1952, and the 32 watt 12 inch diameter lamp was put on the mary in 1945. The potted GE choke/reactor ballast is a late 1940’s to late 1950’s item, so most likely made between 1952 and about 1958. Usually the actual specs for them are on the backing plate of the ballast, earlier ones with a paper label, lager ones stamped into the metal. The number you see is the order code. Ad for the brittle rubber/cloth wires on old ballasts, just be sure the wire isn’t touching the inside of the hole in the case of the ballasts and apply good quality clear or white RTV in a squeeze tube package around tge wires and onto the case, and up on the wires a bit and let it set up. Be sure the ballast case is clean so it sticks well to hold and insulate the wires, and apply and shrink heat shrink tubing up to where the wires are still flexible and use the ballasts. I do it a lot. Works fine. The lamp is not pronounced “Circ-YOU-Line” but merely “Circ-Line.” Nice adapter, it is a very early one! Also, one more Circline bulb was the 20 watt 6 inch diameter one introduced in 1977. Cheers!
Another nice application for these circline fluorescent adapters would include a long chain swag lamp or a ceiling mounted pendant lamp if the shade is large enough.
Got a few PL adaptors, that are a magnetic ballast in a case, that has a B22D base on it, and which will operate any self starting PL lamp from PL7 to PL10, and gives a good lamp life.
Ballast will have a date stamp in ink under the ballast, the top stamping is a part number, and you will also likely will also find there is another rubber stamped ink number under the ballast on the actual base as well, showing the assembly date of the fixture as well.
@@SeanBZA I also have a GE OWL incandescent to high pressure sodium conversion adapter in my collection as well and it uses 35W S76 high pressure sodium lamps.
I think @TechnologyConnections made a video about one of these at one point
OH!! The ITT lamp is made by Sylvania, and not original. It is a replacement. The original was probably a GE. The ITT ones are pretty scarce. Too bad it is crap 4150 K headache inducing COOL WHITE, thouhj. 😫