Highline leashes break super weird! SLACKSNAP!
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- We break test 2 new highline leashes and 3 old ones on our SlackSnap machine plus static ropes of all sizes. Elliot Kirk (@elliotisanoodle) and I also whip for science at Kirby Cove in San Francisco so we know how strong slackline leashes need to be.
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12:52 got dang , I love this channel, I'm not a climber, or a slack liner, er anything to do with heights really but I am a man of the rope,line&twine, and everyday you teach me something interesting or sublime, and further opens my mind
That was amazing ryan. You are a treasure trove of break test knowledge. I would love to see the real life scenario on a low stretch short line rather than a high stretch long line. I think that would give a better perspective on real life leash forces :) i beleive stefan from landcruising had made a pdf about it. I think the max force experienced was 6kn. Cheers!
Great videos!!.
Video suggestion: to set it up to pull both types of rope at 2 kilanewton (idealy it would reset itself with a counter) and see essentially how many whips someone could take before failure.
Maybe it would never break I dont know but could give interesting results.
Great video! You are on your way to a material science lab. The slow addition of force gives you a more accurate picture of strength. In our lab when we are doing compressive strength tests of concrete if you apply the load quickly you get results that indicate a higher compressive strength than when you apply the load slowly.
After Bolt Busters is well under way, I will start designing a drop test machine
great content Ryan my dude. joined the patreon team. keep on keeping on
Thanks dude for the $toke! I appreciate it :)
Another great video, Ryan. I'd be very interested in the differences in a static vs dynamic leash. Back in 2011 I cracked my ribs with a static leash on tight Mantra 1 at 40 meters. Hurt like hell and I figured it was due to the very low dynamic elongation in the system. Looking forward to your next episode!
Wow. At 40 meters you should have had enough give to absorb some of the whip. Unless it was one of those harsh ones. I use to walk 30 meter tight spider silk and i cant believe i did that haha. I did this whole elaborate test one time comparing static vs dynamic leashes only to find out both ropes were dynamic afterwards haha. I will do a video about it for sure.
do you do custom brake-tests? how much do you charge for tests?
Not sure if you read the comments on these now aging videos, but I feel as though it would be interesting if you did this same experiment with only the outer tubing. I understand its not the component of the rope that actually is trusted with holding the force, but it may actually be less than the value you showed especially if the interior component is holding most of the force. You have probably already thought about that, however, even if you didn't its still irrelevent as its not the strongest component.
The outer tubing is just 11/16th tubular webbing which would break roughly around 13kn give or take 5. They definitely work together as this leash and everything breaks in the knot. I've tested a bunch of 1" tubular and 9/16th tubular before and its pretty consistent
What material was the 11mm static rope? I wonder if that has to do with why it deteriorated more than the sheathed one
What would it take to develop, say, 17 kn via a shock load vs a long slow pull and would there be any difference in how the materials respond...?
Im developing a drop test machine idea because why not... but dont tell anyone ;). Im super curious the difference between drop tests and slow pull. I think it would break the same but may be hard to get it just right to break the tubular webbing only and not the rope.
@@HowNOT2 this is what I meant in my above comment! A drop test would be far better as it'd simulate a real world scenario far more accurately.
I've been thinking the exact same thing
but I think it might break before on the connection with the new skinny titanium rings that have a small diametre , i know it holds but its too skinny for my nerves
Could you whip with a figure 8 rappel device as your ring say you dropped your leash and needed to make one to save the trip? Figure 8's are generally rated at 25kn and higher and seem like a pretty beefy ring just with another ring attached. Haha Thoughts?
Arent those usually aluminium? Aluminium rings are contraindicated due to fatigue characteristics and their failure modes.
@@JasperJanssen True. But they have aluminum rings for Whips too. Would be curious to know for sure.
have you ever done break tests on ropes with little nicks and abrasion on them? To see how much it lowers the strength from a pristine condition
i've broken some really old rope and it breaks much higher of a force than any normal use can put on it. We will have some slacksnap episodes about it this winter.
I'm a climber, not a high liner, so I'm ignorant of some details...what is the purpose of the webbing cover of the leash? Why not just use a piece of plain kernmantle?
It makes people feel better. It also makes it 16mm so its easier to climb up the leash after falling.
After all the carabiners have a mbs of 22kn I expected the rope to get closer to 22kn
Would your travel to Boulder Colorado?!
I love how informative everything you put out is! Totally breaks the dumb stereotype that highliners and climbers are crazed adrenaline junkies. You're a scientist :D good shit!
Interesting video !
Are you going to make a harness break tests ?
For sure! Already did some :)
Looking forward for that ;)
You are doing great job!
I don't think these tests are realistic. What would be better in my opinion would be to rig some short high line webbing across two points (short), and simulate a fall with the leash by attaching a weight to it, with ever increasing increments. This would better simulate the sudden shock of a fall rather than a gradual failure with an ever, slowly increasing load, which is unrepresentative of real life imo.
An higher concer to me is that he's only measuring loads on the center, which is nowhere near close to the actual loads on the anchors as the angle in the highline looks close to 150º, which multiplies the load a bit more, so the actual load on the ropes close to the anchor, disregarding the dissipation of energy in the rope is on the doubles probably.
This would be a cool test, I wonder is the weight would get rather heavy!
I am curious about the formic acid dipping to join sheath and core of a nylon rope, want to give some details how not to formic acid a leash / rope?
Its all in here... ua-cam.com/video/kk4TqUe6TGc/v-deo.html
Sounds like fun, until you remember actual climbing deaths from acid contaminated ropes. Acid plus nylon safety equipment - not touching that even with a ten foot long pole...There is just too many ways to f*ck it up. The damage can be invisible, the nylon might still look fine, but fail under body weight.
You know, people (companies) would pay you to do tests like this? They would pay you to use this equipment to do their tests. Large companies would jprobably ust make their own, but it might be appealing to small companies and startups who can't afford this kind of equipment. In addition to climbing innovators, fire and rescue, automotive and other device makers might be interested.
data.slacklineinternational.org/safety/research/forces-in-highlines-english.pdf/
Here's the link.
Worst case described-
For a ~19m dyneema line with walking tension of 2kn you can experience a leash peak load of 7kn. (Stupid for someone to rig such a line but anyway.)
Same conditions but with polyester webbing the peak leash load is 5kn. (I wouldn't prefer to rig such a line now but ive done it in the past)
So in a short polyester line you will experience double the force on your leash compared to your findings.
Thought i should add this perspective to the discussion.
Cheers ryan, perhaps your biggest fan in india!
Interesting "climbing" gear hanging on the wall
good shit starts at 11:59
🐕🐶eh i m free after that🐩😉