SHAZZAM!!! The only luthier to mention tension vs no tension measurements! This man knows what he's talking about! I also love the banter back and forth with the camera man! 😊
Hey; I do complex guitar work for a lot of famous guys. I watch youtube stuff on occasion to see if I can pick up new tricks. Your video is well- explained and thorough. That's refreshing. It'll help a lot of budding repair people. Thanks.
Thank you, John, for sharing your time and expertise. Your assessment method at the beginning is great. Thanks for uploading, Glenn. "The noblest pleasure is the joy of understanding". (L. da Vinci)
Thank you so much for your videos. I finally decided to take apart my first guitar: Yamaha FG150 and reset the neck, plus many other improvements! Your videos really helped a newbie like me! -J.G.
Thank you for that information!! That technique for seeing if a neck reset was needed or not was something I really needed to understand!! Let's face it: if you own a steel string guitar long enough, you'll eventually need a neck reset. But at least I'll now know when it's time to do it.
Your tip about using an icing spatula to lift the fingerboard extension is right on the money. I just successfully removed the neck from a cheap chinese guitar that I'm converting to a resonator for a friend, and rocking the round end icing spatula to release the glue worked like a champ. Thanks mucho. Here's a tip to trade. I clamped a couple of 10" wooden parallel jaw clamps onto the box aligned with the neck, then bridged across the tops of them with a short piece of 1" square aluminum tubing, and then I used a medium size F clamp on the heel cap and the top of the aluminum bar. Boom! Instant neck press that didn't cost $100.
Nice video!!!!!!!!!!!! Hardly any good neck set videos out there with competent explanations. Thank you so much for posting this!!!!!!! John Arnold is not too far from my area. I've never met him, but a friend of mine took my 46 D-18 to him. Someone had refinished the entire guitar with paint lacquer many years ago & destroyed the guitar. As it's collectable value was more than cut in half, I decided to use 0000 steel wool & try to salvage what I could. I was young & dumb & I ended up sanding to bare wood in a couple quarter sized spots. John refinished those spots & matched the finish exactly. You couldn't tell where one started & the other stopped. I've seen a lot of his work & it's always been top notch!!!! He knows what he's doing!!!! Great video!!!!!!!
Dear Glen do you show how to reset an acoustic guitar neck from right to left looking from the lower bout towards the head stock mine drifts to the right about a 1/16 of an inch. thank you.
I have a question and would appreciate any imput...i have a 2001 Martin D41 and a 1996 martin D42 both play great both necks have perfect relief and the action is well within specs with original untouched saddles...my concern is both guitars have a small gap between the heel of the neck and the body of the guitar (enough to slide in a business card) and or thoughts... I've heard this is quite normal as martin leaves this area unglued
It can be done without steam but requires electricity, i'm sure Glen is familiar with the method, however it's not an exact science just yet and kits are being worked on for Luthiers workshops. I use the steam method but as soon as these kits become available i shall continue with the steam. One of the master has a parts list on his website but he wants a Patreon contribution for the list and method. I have seen it done and it's impressive, no risk of scalding any finish on the guitar.
sometimes they used epoxy if they did that you will have a tough time. I would suggest drilling 4 holes 2 an the 15th fret and 2 at the body fret and drill so that you follow the dovetail but hit the cheeks of the neck in case they glued that.
Whatever happened to the metal truss rod in the neck? We never see that come out or go back in. What holds it in at the head end, and how do you get it out?
Where do you get that little heating blanket from? It’s gotta be a better price than the stewmac iron ($85....seriously....) and it’s clearly a better solution than “my protect the top, hit it with the heat gun” method
I wondered if I can have opinions of what is a reasonable charge that a neck reset should be and what it should not be? I brought a 1996 Martin DM to a repair shop yesterday to have it looked at. From early on the guitar had a problem and I brought it to Martin in Nazareth a few months after buying it. They put on the repair invoice "Straightened uneven neck" and adjusted action. Lately, it has been downright painful to play so the man that looked at it yesterday (He is authorized to work on Martin) found the truss rod cannot be moved anymore (very tight he termed) and the action is high and saddle lower than original. He is keeping it with him to contact Martin but unfortunately, it may not be this week for I think they shut down for the holiday. He said if it is deemed a structural problem Martin may cover the repair under warranty. My questions are Does anyone out there have experience dealing with Martin as far as warranty and if Martin was to not cover it what is your opinions on what a reset should cost and if worth it. I believe this was the last or second to last Martin to be made in Nazareth for under $1000. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Signing off for now.
Martin will overcharge as the want you to go to the repair centers. They most likely won't cover this anything over 5 years your pretty much on your own . The truss rod is most likely just stuck and there are ways to loosen it and add a washer. Look me up on my website and contact me through that you can call me
Hi liked the vid I have a question for you, I am riding around Thailand on my motorbike and need a travel guitar I can't afford a furch little Jane so I'm toying with the idea of buying a cheap guitar locally and using your technique of removing the neck and then inserting bolts to make it detachable for traveling just wondered if you think this is feasible or should I abandon the idea, bearing in mind I don't need a professional instrument, just something to bash out a few songs, it doesn't have to look pretty just useable
its hard to say Much depends on the construction method used. Some are doweled and epoxied and that may not be possible, Look for a travel gig bag you can wear it like a back pack
@@johnhall2795 yes but have you tried riding 800km a day when it's 32° C with a backpack, not good, I must find a better option, thanks so much for your reply
Also when you ride with a guitar in a backpack at 140 km per hour which I do all the time, after a couple of hundred kilometres your shoulders are just about ripped off
often it will go away on its own just excess moisture. Sometimes it is glue residue and polishes off. if it is real bad no blush from auto stores will do the trick that softens the finish to allow moisture to air out
i'd use the heatstick from stewmac over steam, which is unpredictable, potentially damaging, and the temperature can't be controlled like a soldering iron
I have the heat stick and in skilled hands steam is much better. First you have to run a 1/8 in hole and that is hard to hide in rosewood fretboard. Yes they work . Most people that use steam don't use it correctly . The key is to use 2 holes and work the steam a bit and switch hole. Most blushing goes away in 24hr . Using 2 holes the blushing isn't an issue. . How many necks have you pulled ? I only did a few thousand, Wayne Henderson John Arnold and most of the guys I know still steam. You are welcome to your opinion. As one that does this for a living , steam is still more reliable. As always check that the neck block is still glued. No matter what system you use .
Ross Kelly - Thanks. I was checking my D18 as I watched his video and the string/fret height at the 12th is at 5/64". I was thinking: 2/64" (1/32") is really low this far up the neck?!
yes saddle height above the bridge should be about .180 in .8 in would be over 3/4 inch. total height off the guitar top to the top of the saddle should be about .5 in I like bridges to be about . 325 to .375 then saddle height of .125 to .180 these are my happy measurements, you can vary a little but these are the target measurements. Tolerance of about +/- .o625 in
that soldering iron will work but now you have a 1/8 in hole to fix. I have been steaming out necks for 20 y rs, Martin has been doing it longer than I. Steam works well. The key to this is to pull the needle every few minutes and let the heat work in. I have tried the heat thing and I can do 3 necks in the time it takes to do 1
disagree the heat plug takes a 1/8 in hole and is difficult to hide on rosewoods after over 1000 resets I can tell you if your getting finish damage you are doing it wrong. I only let the steam work a min or so then move to another hole. Been working on guitars for 20 years and I learned a thing or 2 so we can disagree. I tried one of the heat plugs and gave it away yes it will work but I do 4 resets at a time . The key not to damage is how you control the steam you can't just let it blast away. Also I do use heat for the fret board. If you let your heater in too long you can loosen the neck block from the sides both methods have their issues and you have to learn your technique. My friends Wayne Henderson John Arnold david Nichols we all steam. I don't know many that kept the heater. best to you.
The problem I have with what your saying here is you're suppose to set the straight edge on the fretboard not the frets. Make the neck flat using the trussrod. Your frets may not be level. First step tune to pitch then set relief then check nut height then check action. If action is too high then take the straightedge you're using & see if the straight edge kiss the top of the bridge if it's hitting the bridge you have other options. Shave the bridge then the saddle. A neck reset is expensive & is never the first option.
having done over 3000 neck sets I think I have learned a few things. Your question in talking about tuning to pitch is about a set up that is all together different. Your talking a set up not reset ,Shaving a bridge is not the way you want to do things and is an amateurs way of addressing a problem and not curing it , and I think you have a few things confused. Since you didn't see this is about neck setting on a new build , . When a guitar needs a reset that is when you can no longer adjust to the proper geometry. Once that happens you need to reset the neck . Once you start shaving the bridge you loose the efficiency of the energy transfer from the loss of the height of the saddle. I have been working on guitars for about 25 yr and I am an authorized CF Martin repair center and have made about 300 guitars. If you have any questions I would be happy to share my experience.
@@tippie53 I know the difference between setup & neck reset. I just did 3 cheapo acoustics which really should have the neck reset. I'm aware of all aspects. You can go to 4 degrees on break angle before you really need a neck reset & even then you can slot the bridge to increase the break angle to give the consumer time before an expensive neck reset. You can shave the bridge down to 0.0250 before you notice any sound difference. Neck reset is the last resort. I know many authorized repair centers & I'm not saying you but most will go for the big bucks before telling the consumer the other options. I've been a machinist for 34 years & have worked on many guitars. With the strings off & neck straight the angle of the straight edge should be about 0.062 to 0.125 above the bridge. Setting a straight edge on frets (if you don't know are level) will yield incorrect results.
that is a soldering iron for comercial use not electronics. Then you see where I notched it to rider the frets. I think a small wood burner will also work
why on earth do acoustics not have adjustable saddles and bridges?.....for intonation, action etc....it just doesn't make sense not to have that......weird.
reed I understand resonance etc....but why make it hard for yourself... I love electric and because you can set your guitar as YOU like it......acoustics ALWAYS have adjustment limitations.....I love the sound of acoustics, dont get me wrong, but let's kick it up a gear bridge wise...x
I have a Yamaha FG 300, bought new in 1970 The bridge is fully adjustable. Sounds great and I can not imagine why I don't see that type on every guitar.
The brake angle myth has been around for years but , from an engineering and physics standpoint no. What is more important is the string height at the bridge. Most people forget that it is the point of connection. So if you look at it this way, the point of the ball end to the point of the saddle is what matters. If you look at the applied force of the string you use the sine of the angles and the string tension . From the ball end of the string to the top of the bridge and then to the saddle. So if you think it is just the break angle , that is not correct. The point that you loose on the break angle is when you get below about 6 degrees . That is proven by the match and physics. You can use an oscilloscope a or spectrum analyzer and that too will prove the math. In the brake angle analogy the assumption is applied down force but the reality of this , is the coupled force of the strings up pull from the ball end to the tension at the bridge and down force at the saddle. You are only looking at one part of this equation.
SHAZZAM!!! The only luthier to mention tension vs no tension
measurements! This man knows what he's talking about! I also love the banter back and forth with the camera man! 😊
Hey; I do complex guitar work for a lot of famous guys.
I watch youtube stuff on occasion to see if I can pick up new tricks.
Your video is well- explained and thorough.
That's refreshing.
It'll help a lot of budding repair people.
Thanks.
Alls I know is your the real deal.I have learned a lot from you .thanks so much.
Thank you, John, for sharing your time and expertise. Your assessment method at the beginning is great. Thanks for uploading, Glenn. "The noblest pleasure is the joy of understanding". (L. da Vinci)
Thank you so much for your videos. I finally decided to take apart my first guitar: Yamaha FG150 and reset the neck, plus many other improvements! Your videos really helped a newbie like me! -J.G.
I've a FG180 ... your 150 is it good know ?
@@zorzum i have an fg295s
Thank you for that information!! That technique for seeing if a neck reset was needed or not was something I really needed to understand!! Let's face it: if you own a steel string guitar long enough, you'll eventually need a neck reset. But at least I'll now know when it's time to do it.
Best explanation I’ve seen. Thank you.
Excellent video! You do an awesome job at sharing your expertise. Very much appreciated.
+xd451e1edcc8 thanks again it is our pleasure. A special thanks to my friend Maury Rutch he shot this video . He has Maury's music
Your tip about using an icing spatula to lift the fingerboard extension is right on the money. I just successfully removed the neck from a cheap chinese guitar that I'm converting to a resonator for a friend, and rocking the round end icing spatula to release the glue worked like a champ. Thanks mucho.
Here's a tip to trade. I clamped a couple of 10" wooden parallel jaw clamps onto the box aligned with the neck, then bridged across the tops of them with a short piece of 1" square aluminum tubing, and then I used a medium size F clamp on the heel cap and the top of the aluminum bar. Boom! Instant neck press that didn't cost $100.
+Capn Crusty glad it worked out for you. I do this pretty often. I am happy to share the info.
Awesome vid
Nice video!!!!!!!!!!!! Hardly any good neck set videos out there with competent explanations. Thank you so much for posting this!!!!!!! John Arnold is not too far from my area. I've never met him, but a friend of mine took my 46 D-18 to him. Someone had refinished the entire guitar with paint lacquer many years ago & destroyed the guitar. As it's collectable value was more than cut in half, I decided to use 0000 steel wool & try to salvage what I could. I was young & dumb & I ended up sanding to bare wood in a couple quarter sized spots. John refinished those spots & matched the finish exactly. You couldn't tell where one started & the other stopped. I've seen a lot of his work & it's always been top notch!!!! He knows what he's doing!!!! Great video!!!!!!!
thanks
This video made me do the mummers strut when it was done
Dear Glen do you show how to reset an acoustic guitar neck from right to left looking from the lower bout towards the head stock mine drifts to the right about a 1/16 of an inch. thank you.
I have a question and would appreciate any imput...i have a 2001 Martin D41 and a 1996 martin D42 both play great both necks have perfect relief and the action is well within specs with original untouched saddles...my concern is both guitars have a small gap between the heel of the neck and the body of the guitar (enough to slide in a business card) and or thoughts... I've heard this is quite normal as martin leaves this area unglued
thanks John.
+slowhand500 your most welcome
we are always here to help
It can be done without steam but requires electricity, i'm sure Glen is familiar with the method, however it's not an exact science just yet and kits are being worked on for Luthiers workshops. I use the steam method but as soon as these kits become available i shall continue with the steam. One of the master has a parts list on his website but he wants a Patreon contribution for the list and method. I have seen it done and it's impressive, no risk of scalding any finish on the guitar.
I was surprised when he said finish blushing isn't a big deal...
Thank's a lot , for my FG180 Yamaha is there something to know more ?
sometimes they used epoxy if they did that you will have a tough time. I would suggest drilling 4 holes 2 an the 15th fret and 2 at the body fret and drill so that you follow the dovetail but hit the cheeks of the neck in case they glued that.
Whatever happened to the metal truss rod in the neck? We never see that come out or go back in. What holds it in at the head end, and how do you get it out?
Hi, The Truss rod is accessed from the sound hole, not the headstock, but the truss rod is in there :-)
Is it an issue that you should be worried off?
Where do you get that little heating blanket from? It’s gotta be a better price than the stewmac iron ($85....seriously....) and it’s clearly a better solution than “my protect the top, hit it with the heat gun” method
we sell them at blues creek guitar
john hall 👍
we do well them at blues creek guitars
10 minutes in and i gotta say the detail in this is amazing, thank you...
glad you enjoy them
glad you liked it
Heighth?
I wondered if I can have opinions of what is a reasonable charge that a neck reset should be and what it should not be? I brought a 1996 Martin DM to a repair shop yesterday to have it looked at. From early on the guitar had a problem and I brought it to Martin in Nazareth a few months after buying it. They put on the repair invoice "Straightened uneven neck" and adjusted action. Lately, it has been downright painful to play so the man that looked at it yesterday (He is authorized to work on Martin) found the truss rod cannot be moved anymore (very tight he termed) and the action is high and saddle lower than original. He is keeping it with him to contact Martin but unfortunately, it may not be this week for I think they shut down for the holiday. He said if it is deemed a structural problem Martin may cover the repair under warranty. My questions are Does anyone out there have experience dealing with Martin as far as warranty and if Martin was to not cover it what is your opinions on what a reset should cost and if worth it. I believe this was the last or second to last Martin to be made in Nazareth for under $1000. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Signing off for now.
Martin will overcharge as the want you to go to the repair centers. They most likely won't cover this anything over 5 years your pretty much on your own . The truss rod is most likely just stuck and there are ways to loosen it and add a washer. Look me up on my website and contact me through that you can call me
Hi liked the vid I have a question for you, I am riding around Thailand on my motorbike and need a travel guitar I can't afford a furch little Jane so I'm toying with the idea of buying a cheap guitar locally and using your technique of removing the neck and then inserting bolts to make it detachable for traveling just wondered if you think this is feasible or should I abandon the idea, bearing in mind I don't need a professional instrument, just something to bash out a few songs, it doesn't have to look pretty just useable
its hard to say Much depends on the construction method used. Some are doweled and epoxied and that may not be possible, Look for a travel gig bag you can wear it like a back pack
@@johnhall2795 yes but have you tried riding 800km a day when it's 32° C with a backpack, not good, I must find a better option, thanks so much for your reply
Also when you ride with a guitar in a backpack at 140 km per hour which I do all the time, after a couple of hundred kilometres your shoulders are just about ripped off
At about 18:55 in the video, you mention cloudiness in the finish not being a big deal. What would be a solution to the cloudiness?
often it will go away on its own just excess moisture. Sometimes it is glue residue and polishes off. if it is real bad no blush from auto stores will do the trick that softens the finish to allow moisture to air out
@@tippie53 Alright thanks.
I was kinda put off by that remark.
Entertaining video but the adjustable neck isn’t what I was hoping for. Looking for info on a dovetail reset.
i'd use the heatstick from stewmac over steam, which is unpredictable, potentially damaging, and the temperature can't be controlled like a soldering iron
I have the heat stick and in skilled hands steam is much better. First you have to run a 1/8 in hole and that is hard to hide in rosewood fretboard. Yes they work . Most people that use steam don't use it correctly . The key is to use 2 holes and work the steam a bit and switch hole. Most blushing goes away in 24hr . Using 2 holes the blushing isn't an issue. . How many necks have you pulled ? I only did a few thousand, Wayne Henderson John Arnold and most of the guys I know still steam. You are welcome to your opinion. As one that does this for a living , steam is still more reliable. As always check that the neck block is still glued. No matter what system you use .
Would 2 thinner heat sticks that fit the hole size you like appeal to you? Steam seems to scare clients
You said you were at 2 or 3 after setting the relief to .005". Is that 2 or 3 referring to x/64"?
My guess was 2mm treble and 3mm bass strings. That would make sense as a typical or lowish action halfway down the fretboard.
Ross Kelly - Thanks. I was checking my D18 as I watched his video and the string/fret height at the 12th is at 5/64". I was thinking: 2/64" (1/32") is really low this far up the neck?!
String height at 12th fret: "Right at 3 and right at 2, so that's perfect." 3 what? 2 what? What system of measurement are you using?
using CF Martin nomenclature so a 3 - 2 action is 3/32 on bass 2/32 on treble at the 12th fret under the string.
3/64" and 2/64"
@@mamachip Nope, incorrect. See correct answer above from the maker of the video, John Hall.
Saddle height 0.180" is 4.5mm, is that correct? Did you mean 0.80"
yes saddle height above the bridge should be about .180 in .8 in would be over 3/4 inch. total height off the guitar top to the top of the saddle should be about .5 in I like bridges to be about . 325 to .375 then saddle height of .125 to .180 these are my happy measurements, you can vary a little but these are the target measurements. Tolerance of about +/- .o625 in
I meant, 0.080" ,thanks
@@tippie53 do you prefer steam over a soldering iron extension? seems more unpredictable
Yes @@34672rr wiremessiah
that soldering iron will work but now you have a 1/8 in hole to fix. I have been steaming out necks for 20 y rs, Martin has been doing it longer than I. Steam works well. The key to this is to pull the needle every few minutes and let the heat work in. I have tried the heat thing and I can do 3 necks in the time it takes to do 1
Electric heat is by far the better way to do this .steam will mar the finish. Never on the pickguard.
disagree the heat plug takes a 1/8 in hole and is difficult to hide on rosewoods after over 1000 resets I can tell you if your getting finish damage you are doing it wrong. I only let the steam work a min or so then move to another hole. Been working on guitars for 20 years and I learned a thing or 2 so we can disagree. I tried one of the heat plugs and gave it away yes it will work but I do 4 resets at a time . The key not to damage is how you control the steam you can't just let it blast away. Also I do use heat for the fret board. If you let your heater in too long you can loosen the neck block from the sides both methods have their issues and you have to learn your technique. My friends Wayne Henderson John Arnold david Nichols we all steam. I don't know many that kept the heater. best to you.
EKO Ranger are easy resets, the necks are bolt on.
until the neck pocket breaks out.....and it ALWAYS breaks out.
The problem I have with what your saying here is you're suppose to set the straight edge on the fretboard not the frets. Make the neck flat using the trussrod. Your frets may not be level. First step tune to pitch then set relief then check nut height then check action. If action is too high then take the straightedge you're using & see if the straight edge kiss the top of the bridge if it's hitting the bridge you have other options. Shave the bridge then the saddle. A neck reset is expensive & is never the first option.
having done over 3000 neck sets I think I have learned a few things. Your question in talking about tuning to pitch is about a set up that is all together different. Your talking a set up not reset ,Shaving a bridge is not the way you want to do things and is an amateurs way of addressing a problem and not curing it , and I think you have a few things confused. Since you didn't see this is about neck setting on a new build , . When a guitar needs a reset that is when you can no longer adjust to the proper geometry. Once that happens you need to reset the neck . Once you start shaving the bridge you loose the efficiency of the energy transfer from the loss of the height of the saddle. I have been working on guitars for about 25 yr and I am an authorized CF Martin repair center and have made about 300 guitars. If you have any questions I would be happy to share my experience.
@@tippie53 I know the difference between setup & neck reset. I just did 3 cheapo acoustics which really should have the neck reset. I'm aware of all aspects. You can go to 4 degrees on break angle before you really need a neck reset & even then you can slot the bridge to increase the break angle to give the consumer time before an expensive neck reset. You can shave the bridge down to 0.0250 before you notice any sound difference. Neck reset is the last resort. I know many authorized repair centers & I'm not saying you but most will go for the big bucks before telling the consumer the other options. I've been a machinist for 34 years & have worked on many guitars. With the strings off & neck straight the angle of the straight edge should be about 0.062 to 0.125 above the bridge. Setting a straight edge on frets (if you don't know are level) will yield incorrect results.
btw thats not a souldering iron, it's a woodburner lol. I have the same one.
that is a soldering iron for comercial use not electronics. Then you see where I notched it to rider the frets. I think a small wood burner will also work
Informative video, but watching him repeatedly slap that metal straightedge down on the frets of that D42 really stressed me out.
that metal ruler is softer than the frets. also I am not working on my bench but in the shop where I have room for the cameras
Me, too. He's surely a fine tech - but I don't like the way he handles this instrument and I wouldn't let him touch any of mine.
danashane ohh wahhh
You need therapy
Yeah that's almost as scary as ( god forbid) PLAYING the guitar and having those strings slapping off the frets.
again wheres the interior truss rod
I love this video, it's very informative, but I am really worried you are going to burn the hell out of yourself with that steam.
8/64ths?!?! You mean 1/8th?
why on earth do acoustics not have adjustable saddles and bridges?.....for intonation, action etc....it just doesn't make sense not to have that......weird.
DEADASTRONAUTFX sustain
DEADASTRONAUTFX resonance
reed I understand resonance etc....but why make it hard for yourself... I love electric and because you can set your guitar as YOU like it......acoustics ALWAYS have adjustment limitations.....I love the sound of acoustics, dont get me wrong, but let's kick it up a gear bridge wise...x
I have a Yamaha FG 300, bought new in 1970 The bridge is fully adjustable. Sounds great and I can not imagine why I don't see that type on every guitar.
@@jro101346 cool, yeah it would make more sense wouldnt it, but i guess they wouldnt sell as many...hmmmm
Sorry but the string brake angle is critical.
The brake angle myth has been around for years but , from an engineering and physics standpoint no. What is more important is the string height at the bridge. Most people forget that it is the point of connection. So if you look at it this way, the point of the ball end to the point of the saddle is what matters. If you look at the applied force of the string you use the sine of the angles and the string tension . From the ball end of the string to the top of the bridge and then to the saddle. So if you think it is just the break angle , that is not correct. The point that you loose on the break angle is when you get below about 6 degrees . That is proven by the match and physics. You can use an oscilloscope a or spectrum analyzer and that too will prove the math. In the brake angle analogy the assumption is applied down force but the reality of this , is the coupled force of the strings up pull from the ball end to the tension at the bridge and down force at the saddle. You are only looking at one part of this equation.
15th like
😴🥱