As I stated in your previous video on WWs, the markings are for application and if coated or not. Exception is Zn for Zinc and Fe for Ferrous/Ferrum. The varying hardness you show for the markings are from the various manufacturer alloys and even the same manufacturer but different time periods. Or, year of manufacture in the US. Not worth wasting time and effort sorting amongst the clip-on weights. Heat treat if you need them harder.
I had a guy in one of the forums that I frequent display some apprehension about certain coated weights. That was the motivating reason for this video. But, through this little project I found that there are a lot of people tossing out good lead simply because it doesn't look a certain way. Hopefully this video helps.
I think it will help. No reason to be scared of the lead. Just aware of the parameters. Do the initial WW melt at a low temp and throw out the junk. Then melt again to clean as needed. I saved zinc for some time to cast really hard bullets, slingshot ammo, and sinkers, but never got around to it so took buckets of it to the recycle place. If I want a hard bullet I'll just heat-treat, which is what I do for the 500 NE. I didn't want to dedicate one of my melting pots, molds, ladle, etc just to cast zinc.
I just finished sorting out 2 buckets of wheel weights and was considering trying to sort out the clip on ones that seemed softer for possible black powder use. Ended up just tossing the clip on weights together and separating out the stick ons for the front stuffers.
@@leadsmith44 Yep! I was able to get a handful of em. Ended up with 215# clip on lead, 16# stick on lead, 46# steel, and 15# zinc and trash. The 16# of soft lead will make a lot of .350 round balls for my squirrel rifle but I burn through a lot of lead when the Minie ball mold comes out and I start casting those .575" 535gr bullets.
Don't know if this helps but if the whole weight is drawn to the magnet it's ferrous and not lead if ONLY THE CLIP is drawn then probably lead unless marked zinc
Good Morning LeadSmith, very interesting and informative video. I was referred to your channel by @Viejo Sure glad I did. As a Caster you have excellent content and I enjoyed the video, well done!!! You gained another subscriber to your channel!!! Reb Tyree 👋🤠🐕🙏🇺🇸🇺🇦
As I stated in your previous video on WWs, the markings are for application and if coated or not. Exception is Zn for Zinc and Fe for Ferrous/Ferrum.
The varying hardness you show for the markings are from the various manufacturer alloys and even the same manufacturer but different time periods. Or, year of manufacture in the US.
Not worth wasting time and effort sorting amongst the clip-on weights.
Heat treat if you need them harder.
I had a guy in one of the forums that I frequent display some apprehension about certain coated weights. That was the motivating reason for this video. But, through this little project I found that there are a lot of people tossing out good lead simply because it doesn't look a certain way. Hopefully this video helps.
I think it will help. No reason to be scared of the lead. Just aware of the parameters. Do the initial WW melt at a low temp and throw out the junk. Then melt again to clean as needed. I saved zinc for some time to cast really hard bullets, slingshot ammo, and sinkers, but never got around to it so took buckets of it to the recycle place. If I want a hard bullet I'll just heat-treat, which is what I do for the 500 NE. I didn't want to dedicate one of my melting pots, molds, ladle, etc just to cast zinc.
I just finished sorting out 2 buckets of wheel weights and was considering trying to sort out the clip on ones that seemed softer for possible black powder use. Ended up just tossing the clip on weights together and separating out the stick ons for the front stuffers.
Those soft stamped stick ons are ideal. I've made lots of great round balls from them.
@@leadsmith44 Yep! I was able to get a handful of em. Ended up with 215# clip on lead, 16# stick on lead, 46# steel, and 15# zinc and trash. The 16# of soft lead will make a lot of .350 round balls for my squirrel rifle but I burn through a lot of lead when the Minie ball mold comes out and I start casting those .575" 535gr bullets.
Don't know if this helps but if the whole weight is drawn to the magnet it's ferrous and not lead if ONLY THE CLIP is drawn then probably lead unless marked zinc
The ALM designates the clip is made for an aluminum wheel which is thicker
Makes sense to me. Thanks for stopping by!
Good Morning LeadSmith, very interesting and informative video. I was referred to your channel by @Viejo Sure glad I did. As a Caster you have excellent content and I enjoyed the video, well done!!! You gained another subscriber to your channel!!!
Reb Tyree 👋🤠🐕🙏🇺🇸🇺🇦
Thanks for joining! I'm glad you enjoy my work. Hope to see you around. Send me a link to Viejo so that I can thank him :)
Ahh... Just realized Viejo was Walter Bunning... I had a Columbo moment lol
Thaks for the info
Your are welcome. Thanks for the view
Use a magnet
Magnets can be problematic since the clips are all steel. Stick ons don't use clips, so this is easier done. Thanks for stopping by.