@@Puppyboi12345 Oohh you'd be surprised the amount of youngins that like cars that don't even know what those movies are. Or care about them to be honest... lol
@@Vert344 yeah that doesn’t exist my man. Kids that like jdm cars worship those movies. Now kids that like muscle or euro or supercars may not know what those movies are. But jdm idiots all know exactly what it is
Your issue with the silicone isn't really an issue as long as the sealing surfaces/outside edges are dry. The reason it's still wet is because you've sealed it off from the outside air that helps it cure, kinda like when it's in the tube still and you put the cap back on. When I was working for Mazda still earlier this year, I would be taking engines apart for warranty work and some of the silicone that would get captured in bolt holes for the timing cover would still be mildly wet, even after 20-40,000 miles! Still sealed and did it's job where needed. PS, thank you for not "taking sides" with whistlindiesel, because, it's whistlindiesel...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Party Special for you 💋 NUDE.SNAPGIRLS.TODAY/SIESTA?Party 💋. Gaze: "Amazed" Lips: "Sensual" Smile: "Sweeter" Body: "Colder" Жизнь, как красивая мелодия, только песни перепутались. #однако #я #люблю #таких #рыбаков #垃圾
I'm pretty sure that those sealants need the absence of air to cure not the other way around. Otherwise the metal to metal surface would never cure since there is no outside air
@@kyleroyce4365 my explanation probably wasn't the best, but it still has something to do with being sealed off. Put a glob of silicone out on an open surface and cap the rest in the tube, and the silicone left out is going to dry faster.
@@mikedorner5853 you want it sealed off from oxygen that's how it bonds. That's why it was hard on the machined surface. You can't have access to outside are on your seals otherwise they would not be "air tight". If there is access to air the seal would leak and you would not be able to maintain any pressure differences from atmospheric. This is why these products are designed to dry with the exclusion of air. It's counterintuitive to most silicones
@@kyleroyce4365 They said they used Permatex Ultra Black, which is an RTV, not anaerobic sealant. So your theory wouldn't apply here. Assuming RTV was used, Mike Dorner is right.
I highly recommend doing the oil restrictior in the head along with a head drain kit, not installing those pieces is how I spun a rod bearing in my RB26 after installing a Tomei oil pump, I didn't even track the car, I was driving home one evening, went up a hill on the freeway, shifted down to third and just maintained my speed, when the rpm increased, so did the volume of oil being pumped to the head and it spun a rod bearing. I pulled over, checked the oil level, it was below the minimum fill line and was back to normal after about 10-15 minutes.
I think it got over torqued before. Based on how it took resistance over the mid threads, but then rolled smoother as it got deeper within it. Threads are slightly torque meshed. Gorilla wristed.
Agreed same part with slightly different tolerance. Small amount of lubrication will help slide together. The largest risk is that the threads gall and have issues coming back apart. Some tap oil is what I would recommend. Another option is chasing the threads with a “die” to elevate the tolerance but obviously you will lose the zinc coating so again add some tap oil and they will mate much easier.
I believe nitto and many Australian companies sell amazing products to help with oiling issues for the RBs. These upgrades are almost a must sadly. Hope you don't run into any issues 🤞
It's awesome to see you guys both working on two of the main JDM legends now. Supra v Skyline battles lol. 2JZ&RB's love the engine and fabrication content during build season as much as the racing. Such clean engine stuff. Lots of attention to detail. That's the main thing for me is I really appreciate the details you put in! Cheers
There are instances where cross threading something to prevent it backing out is literally the correct method of securing hardware. This is mostly common in regards to very small items, it is a common practice in the gun industry.
@@TML34 I know a certain well known Gun Smith in the industry who would tell you otherwise... among many machinists especially old timey machinists...Keep in mind the type of cross threading I speak of Is calculated and measured by pitch and depth where a fastener will allow X amount of turns freely/by hand before the difference In thread pitches intersects and is what will prevent it from backing out...Sort of like Tapered threads except not... This is most commonly done in instances where depth is extremely limited.. such as fastening a sight block to a thin wall barrel.... it's Not simply ramming a fastener in a hole as shitty as you can with an impact until it stops.
@@TML34 you haven’t been around much in the automotive industry have you …. Literally they have the nut designed to burr or “cross” thread as a one use only on certain items to not allow the nut to back off …. Are you dense or just dense 😂😂😂
i love how SA does the best they can to build the cars and take in feed back without like it's a personal attack. that said may favorite series is the FRS were you guys built it up and took it on a racing tour, THAT WAS EPIC! im not saying do it again, just saying how awesome it was and i have re watched it like 5 times lol!
PT I would still highly advise doing the oil feed restrictor, arp head studs, MLS headgasket, and head oil drain. It is cheap insurance, you'll be surprised how fast even the stock pump drinks the pan dry. I can see mine drop quite a bit of pressure during a single pull.
oil feed restrictor isn't cheap insurance. its actually needed to not blow the engine. RBs can blow in 2 laps with the stock sump, and high flow pump, and no restrictor
I have been running the Tomei pump on my rb26for 7 years or so.I run the stock restrictions in the block but have a head drain in the rear of the head to a factory size sump with Tomei baffle kit.I run a single turbo also ball bearing.I run a 10w60 or better at all times.it’s in a drift car so gets a hard life. With the oil pump follow the instructions about setting the pressure at idle with the adjuster on the side of the pump. They supply copper washers to lower the pressure. To much pressure isn’t always best. It’s about getting it right.
Zink builds up the material so maybe the other fitting is already worn in al little bit. By my former employer (in the cleanroom) we had zink bolts and we only where allowed to use them one, because the coating wheres of. There the zink bolts were used so you didn't had to use grease (witch was forbidden in the cleanroom). So the bolts always come out, even years later. So if you thread in in and oud a couple of times it should go smoothly
In the western world most people are still learning the RB. The Ausiees and New Zelanders have built and daily drive 1000hp RBs reliably. Maatouks and others in Australia will set you right.
Common misconceptions about gaskets; they are designed to swell in the presence of oil, and that is what seals them. If you use permatex you're preventing the gaskets from their designed function.
I will add a thin coating of oil with my fingers to pre-swell the gaskets prior to install. Nothing significant, but better than a completely dry gasket.
Permabond has a great article called "Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using Anaerobic Adhesives". Anaerobic stuff is not meant to be used with gaskets, it is meant to be used INSTEAD the gasket.
Yep it's pretty cheap insurance really. And alot cheaper than going a proper dry sump kit. The accumsump can be mounted in the boot also. I'd be definitely looking I to one aswell as the block restrict or and rear head drain. And a good catch can with return line to the sump.
@@joshuawatson9486 I use mine primarily for pre-oiling since I don't drive my car often. But it's also good for surge control on the track. I made a custom oil pedestal so it's after the oil filter so I can use the oil filters drain back valve as a check valve. I mounted mine in the front bumper. It works quite well, but I'd recommend to use an electronic valve option instead of a manual one.
Cams aren't a bolt on part. It takes precision and care to assemble an engine. It's very easy to break engine internals. I think a lot of people make the mistake of following oem procedures for assembling aftermarket parts. And I think some people don't realize how fast the components are moving and why they need to be so precise.
Maybe when talking in terms of engines as glass like and fragile as the RB, but I can't think of anytime I've had a camshaft related failures simply from "bolting on" aftermarket cams, including high mileage engines and adding an extra 1,000 or 2,000rpms to their factory redline...
@@keithbusch4014 "Bolt on parts" and or "bolt on applications" is a term or reference in the car community for performance upgrades that don't require disassemble of the engine or in other words they are external components which require minimal tools and knowledge.
@@reecebower9934 So some how the term bolt on is different for imports and domestic???????? Unfortunately your wrong, and I feel sorry for your car community. You don't have to comment back at me because I'm not interested anymore......KMFNB
This title 🤦♂️ if you over tighten the cam gears and bounce a piston off a valve yeah they might, just like any other cam. Edit: WD cam gear snapped off the end btw, hence my comment. Glad you guys explained correct installation and the facts
The other thing that causes cams to snap is people lose a head gasket and warp the head a little. Then the machine shop decks the head back to flat, and you bolt it back on. Perfect. Yeah, except the original machine work had the head deck and cam journals parallel, if you warped the head deck and machined it back to flat, what happened to the cam rotational plane? In most cases its fine at first, but the cam flexing from the misalignment between the journals will eventually fatigue the cam.
Wow that is something that I never even thought about in my 25 years of wrenching on my cars and flip cars…… I’m so guilty of just having the head decked and not aligning the cam hournals
@@br4d101 it's not the case, people just don't put two and two together sometimes. The assumption is usually I overtorqued the cam caps, or the engine is xxx miles old, it was bound to happen, or some other reasonable explanation. But yes, some cams are more forgiving than others. I dunno, I just did 7 thou off a volvo xc70 5 cylinder, guess we'll see what happens...
@@BrainsofFrank you don't have a choice on modern engines, there aren't any bearings you can oversize... just put it together and hope it lasts long enough for rust to eat the car away lol back in the day, guys would tweak the head back by bolting it to a big chunk of machined steel, then shim and heat as necessary to get the head deck back into spec.
@@bgee461 I can see what you mean though and I agree with you but I’ve never known anyone to do it! Majority of people just slap an engine together, never really care about tolerances and it’ll work for years and years, them cams that WD had were brittle and seems as though they hadn’t been heat treated properly to be honest n was just to hard or the tempering process wasn’t correctly done! Never should of broke that easily!
Please let's all stop pandering to that guy, really merely mentioning him is why videos like his are made purely clickbait. SpeedAcademy keep making the awesome content that you usually do.
I know this video is old now, but I bought a 1JZ swapped IS300 back in 2020. The guy I bought it from put Tomei cams in it and had a cam break two different times. The second time it happened, Tomei sent him a set of HKS cams as a replacement. They were the same specs but cast by HKS instead of Tomei and they still work fine.
LMFAO, I laughed so hard when I saw that crank pulley bolt...I 100% said 'WHY are you going through so much effort to build such a beautiful looking engine....and you're going to put THAT thing back into it!?!' Thanks PT, you're the bestest lol
The sealant is typically drying on contact with the air moisture. It's not unusual that after 4 days, specially in those grooves, the sealant is still wet (as there's no or very few contact with air)
you should have soaked the header wrap in warm water before putting it on. it helps create a tight fit and coverage when it dries. also, sometimes pipe threading gets slightly marred, but threads arent always perfect. if it's slightly tight, thats fine. if it's really really fighting you THEN i wouldnt keep threading in. the reason why it gets easier is because the threads will correct themselves and straighten out.
People like WD don't realize how much damage they do to companies reputations by being ignorant and putting crap like this out. Tomei has has been top tier for longer than he's been alive...
@@tomsellout9576 exactly right, torque values and sequence on cams, head bolts and rod caps are critical. Plasti-gauge and a quality torque wrench, a dial indicator/calipers and a little bit of patience will net results or you can set fire to a stack of money and save a lot wasted effort and time doing it sloppy and blaming everyone else like "Whistlin Butthole"😂
@@petequinones3454 the cams even specifically stated the proper torque sequence WAS NOT the same as the oem toque sequence. When you say “oh yeah I know cams go inside to outside” well... you end up with broken tomei cams
@@tomsellout9576 I've never said anything about torquing cams inside to outside so I don't know where you came up with that. Tomei, as most have a 3 step gradual torqued spec. Example 2,6,9 ft. Lbs depending on application. . It's always outside to inside on cams!! Head bolts are always start inside to outside in whatever sequence is called for on an application. I'm not an RB expert so I can't speak in absolutes. But I would guess that WD's end cap was either over torqued, improper clearance (shims) or possibly oiling issues. All would cause heat and stress. Either way Tomei is legendary in the tuning scene for decades and the latter is dude with a mullet trying to break stuff on YT for clicks, which would you rather be?
i use pro cam tomei 272 making 1050hp on 4wheel and i have zero issues with the cams and i`ve been racing it for 7 years .. with tomei you are safe .. thats how i see it
I hope the conclusion to this is an hour long masterpiece where you guys road trip the cars grand tour style, track them, drag, switch drivers, etc etc etc. maybe do something wild like take them camping. Legends building legends.
Did you talk to Garrett before you decided to weld up and redrill the oil feed banjo bolt? I'd assume if it's a bolt on turbo application from Garrett they'd know what the stock oil feed system is capable of and design the turbo to accommodate that. I know efr turbos come with a build in restrictor so you can run whatever feed you want.
It's insane the guys from the shop went along with that stunt. Cast is very brittle. It's meant to not wear with metal on metal contact and be very strong against heat.
You might want to look into an oil drain for the head too. The reason the big pumps empty the sump is because it gets pushed into the head and can't return fast enough. Why leave the stock baffle in the cam covers when you have an aftermarket baffle on it? As far as I'm aware, you remove the stock baffle which would give you the clearance you needed without breaking it.
The stock baffle has a metal substrate in it which I would think is needed to reduce the blow by so removing it kinda negates the idea of trying to keep as much of the oil in the covers as possible
A lot of silicones and sealants will specify whether they are aerobic or anaerobic. Which will determine if the sealant cures with or without the absence or presence of oxygen.
The hyper tune rocker covers are meant for dry sump in Australia with there billet covers .try using HiOctain racing baffles. With steel mesh not the yellow foam.. They remove the original baffles All RB blow oil at high rpm . Big breathers and catch can
Nice work guys - good to see you enjoying #gtrlife I'm running an R33 GTR with built RB26 with Nitto high-flow oil pump, similar to the Tomei one in terms of flow. Has 2860r-7 turbo's. Have 1.0mm restrictor to stop all the oil being sent to the head. For what it's worth - have done ~5 track events without specific issues, stock sump capacity over-filled slightly (commonly done for track sessions). Could benefit with an extended sump - you'll tend to see oil pressure start to drop from say 3kg/cm2 to 2kg/cm2 when you are > 7,000 RPM as it pulls oil out of the sump until you let it drain out. Head Sump drain will probably help as well (I don't have this) - especially if you don't have an oil restrictor. Other option is head cam baffles as well or accusump if you lose oil pressure.
Some RTV only vulcanizes when cut off from oxygen. So my guess is that those little grooves trapped a small pocket of air which probably slowed the vulcanizing process. Didn’t think that the Permatex ultra black reacted that way, but who knows. Keep up the great content guys! Looking forward to these cars going head-to-head in the spring!
Anaerobic sealant does that. This rtv does the opposite : it hardens transporting air and/or moisture from outside to inside. So it happens to trap inself inside grooves not hardened while thin layer of interface is hardened already. Not an rtv failure tho.
2:03.. exactly...run the engine and it'll dry (cure) properly... 7:15.. good choice that one is better because the hole is actually bigger...bigger drain line is better with turbos 10:15.. that blue hose is fine especially since you covered it that's silicone hose is resistant to more heat than it's going to be in contact with 14:40 it's NPT... it's made to get tighter as you tighten...🤦♂️..or you have metric and standard fittings...giv'er
The extra layer of zinc and the differences in tolerances due to old age/corrosion. Thats my guess on what was going on as to why that pipe would thread into one thing just fine but not into the correct spot.
Your issue with the threads are the plating. The new plating oversized the thread by a tiny bit. This is why galvanized BSP pipe fittings get the thread cut after the galvanizing treatment. In your case the fitting has a seat to seal the joint, so the thread isn't as crucial.
-As for the fuel lines that are nicely zinc plated, it could be just because they were torqued together before and their matching threads are that tight due to mesh/rollover. Should still make a solid seal with the flare as long as it's lined up and not cross threaded, but it prolly got gorilla wristed before. -As for whistlin' - doesn't he just always break everything anyhow? I thought that was his schtick... being ignorant and wasteful.... -As for the oil drain lines, I was military at the time, and I went full AN across the car. It was all I knew anyhow lol. -The RTV needs air to dry. If it's in a vacuum... it shouldn't dry fast at all. Heat will also "cure" the sealant.
another technique to restrict the oil is to put a Nitrous pill before the turbo in the oil line, and if you're running those aftermarket baffles - you should drill out the rivets and remove the factory baffles, anyway you probably want to clean out the schmutz that has built up through the years behind them
The tomei turbo elbows will fit with this turbos and exhaust heat wrap. Even with turbo blanket. But you need to wrap just a thin layer on the front elbow and use every additional space in the holes in the header flange to cylinder head to push the front turbo as far as possible to the front and the back turbo as far as possible to the rear to create enough space between the front and the back turbo. If youre not doing it, you could run into fitting issue with the rear compressor housing to front elbow, and/ or rear inlet pipe to front elbow. I run into this issue, while i made it.
i used plastigage on a tomei cam and found it was a couple thou too tight… i think this is more common than people think and everyone thinks a cam is just drop in
RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising, and it needs air to cure, otherwise it needs more heat to cure based on its exposure to air when you squeeze it out the tube.
You could use adhesion promoter or mist the FIGP (sealer) with water to get it to cure faster. Also you could use a humidifier in the shop to help sealer cure.
I've been a Heavy Duty Mechanic for fifteen years. That's not really that big a deal that some fittings fit in tighter than others. I've had that lots. You get a feel of when it's ok or when it's not. You used a hand wrench and it went in fine. It happens.
Anaerobic adhesives and anaerobic sealants cure in the absence of air or oxygen. They are designed for fastening and sealing applications in which a tight seal must be formed without light, heat or oxygen
I bet Tomei wont tell you they'll snap.. ive been building engines for 20+ yrs a couple RBs.. snapping cams is a install error.. over torqueing cam caps... heat... 💥
@@bandwagon240 after 5 ugga duggas you need to slap em and say "those aren't going anywhere". That's the only way to prevent anything from moving from it's intended place
My poncams literally came with a warning to follow the proper torque sequence or risk snapping the cam with a cartoon Japanese guy holding a snapped cam lmao. User error
Now I cant remember for the life of me if I put rtv in those grooves in the front cam caps where you omitted the rtv. my initial reaction was that you are supposed to but maybe i just did the edge around the seal. definitely not under the mating surface the bolt goes through.
@@speedacademy Honesty tho, I'm just talking shit. If Tomei had a major problem with them breaking i believe they would address that. Can't believe you replied.🤣🤣
It just needs to heat cycle.. I've seen it happen a few times. One of which was a timing cover that I pulled of a chevy 3.6l that didn't run after the timing components were replaced. The car sat for almost two weeks before I tore into it qnd the rtv gray was still tacky within the groves
You should be careful to use the genuine Garrett recommended oil feed fitting as it has a special taper fit at the one end to fit onto the pin that holds the bearing cage in place in the bearing housing. They also have a very specific sized orifice in order to provide the correct amount of oil to the ball bearing system. Definitely need to change those oil feed fittings that you made for the genuine Garret ones, they’re specifically made for ball bearing turbos.
I use a lot of silicone sealant in my line of work, which is industrial mechanical. I see this same thing on silicone sealants that are closed off from outside air. I don’t think they can cure when they can’t outgas. That being said, it means that the pan was sealed.
I have had the coating on threads bung up the treads just enough to make it not work, I just ran a tap and die in both sides of the threads and it threaded in fine
Soundtracks in your videos are perfect. I shazamed already 3 of them and they become immediately my most listening songs. Don't you have some playlist somewhere?
I dont know which is better. But I do know after watching this I would rather work on a 2jz. Getting to see this thing up close and personal is really cool.
You should always wet the wrap before applying it. Apply it wet, it stretches on better and tighter and forms so much better. Use a spray bottle with water. Probably too late now, but you would have ended up with a much nicer and tigher form fitting wrap. Also it dosnt tend to unwrap itself and shift around like a dry wrap does over time.
Once the engine is complete, refitted and tuned, get some clear OEM engine ‘wax’ it will keep the zinc coated parts etc free from corrosion in your salty Canadian winters.
My Suzuki cappuccino pan and timing cover have grooves like that. I used permatex black and no leaks since the summer. No idea if it's still damp but I'm not exactly taking it apart to check
Honestly bro, save yourself some time and trouble by talking to any of the major players here in Australia about do's and don'ts with building RBs. Alot of the info on the net about them is old or not entirely true. Best hear it from the real deal. Also Andrew from motive video is very well knowledgeable with gtrs too alot of people reach out to him for help. Love the work bro keep it going!
@14.39 your probably have to much stress or a burr on the pipe that's adding to much stress on the threads. Idk if you can use little bit of thread lubricant? Or even out the pressure on the pipe going in and check little burrs on threads and pipe.
i have pulled my 2jz pans multiple times within a few days (I'm an idiot or whatever) and I experienced the wet FIPG in the groves. Seems to be normal for those inner groves take forever to cure.
Enjoying the RB vs 2JZ builds immensely. In regards to the Tomei manifolds, I don't have personal experience, but I've read that those can crack at the welds. They have a newer full cast manifold which is supposed to address that issue. May be worth looking into.
I watched the video that you're talking about where he broke the cams. I have broken a cam before in tech School. It was a isky electro-motive camshaft that was a regrind and it snapped because I installed it wrong. Since then I have installed every cam appropriately and have not broken one since. They are hardened so that way they do not wear and if you do not install them correctly they will shatter. So do you want a cam that slowly wears out in your engine or do you want a camshaft that when installed properly last forever? Anyway awesome video I would pick an rb any day of the week over a 2J even though I know the 2J will make more power and probably be more reliable stock vs stock.
Rome was not built in a a day but a 2J was built in a day with 15 grand in over night parts from japan
😂 Some kids watching this will have absolutely no idea where this line came from.
@@EatMyPropwash are you serious? Every stupid jdm kid knows what that’s from lmao
🤣😂🤣
@@Puppyboi12345 Oohh you'd be surprised the amount of youngins that like cars that don't even know what those movies are. Or care about them to be honest... lol
@@Vert344 yeah that doesn’t exist my man. Kids that like jdm cars worship those movies. Now kids that like muscle or euro or supercars may not know what those movies are. But jdm idiots all know exactly what it is
Your issue with the silicone isn't really an issue as long as the sealing surfaces/outside edges are dry. The reason it's still wet is because you've sealed it off from the outside air that helps it cure, kinda like when it's in the tube still and you put the cap back on. When I was working for Mazda still earlier this year, I would be taking engines apart for warranty work and some of the silicone that would get captured in bolt holes for the timing cover would still be mildly wet, even after 20-40,000 miles! Still sealed and did it's job where needed.
PS, thank you for not "taking sides" with whistlindiesel, because, it's whistlindiesel...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Party Special for you
💋 NUDE.SNAPGIRLS.TODAY/SIESTA?Party 💋.
Gaze: "Amazed"
Lips: "Sensual"
Smile: "Sweeter"
Body: "Colder"
Жизнь, как красивая мелодия, только песни перепутались.
#однако #я #люблю #таких #рыбаков #垃圾
I'm pretty sure that those sealants need the absence of air to cure not the other way around. Otherwise the metal to metal surface would never cure since there is no outside air
@@kyleroyce4365 my explanation probably wasn't the best, but it still has something to do with being sealed off. Put a glob of silicone out on an open surface and cap the rest in the tube, and the silicone left out is going to dry faster.
@@mikedorner5853 you want it sealed off from oxygen that's how it bonds. That's why it was hard on the machined surface. You can't have access to outside are on your seals otherwise they would not be "air tight". If there is access to air the seal would leak and you would not be able to maintain any pressure differences from atmospheric. This is why these products are designed to dry with the exclusion of air. It's counterintuitive to most silicones
@@kyleroyce4365 They said they used Permatex Ultra Black, which is an RTV, not anaerobic sealant. So your theory wouldn't apply here. Assuming RTV was used, Mike Dorner is right.
I highly recommend doing the oil restrictior in the head along with a head drain kit, not installing those pieces is how I spun a rod bearing in my RB26 after installing a Tomei oil pump, I didn't even track the car, I was driving home one evening, went up a hill on the freeway, shifted down to third and just maintained my speed, when the rpm increased, so did the volume of oil being pumped to the head and it spun a rod bearing. I pulled over, checked the oil level, it was below the minimum fill line and was back to normal after about 10-15 minutes.
bump , i highly recommend this for sure
When you upgrade the pump, you upgrade the sump so you can hold more oil. Those upgraded pumps flow more oil hence why that happened to you.
The RB is slowly driving him insane. I like that y’all don’t act like you know everything.
And learn as you go just like us!
Different tolerances of the threads + thickness of the zinc coating = added resistance.
I think it got over torqued before. Based on how it took resistance over the mid threads, but then rolled smoother as it got deeper within it. Threads are slightly torque meshed. Gorilla wristed.
Agreed same part with slightly different tolerance. Small amount of lubrication will help slide together. The largest risk is that the threads gall and have issues coming back apart. Some tap oil is what I would recommend.
Another option is chasing the threads with a “die” to elevate the tolerance but obviously you will lose the zinc coating so again add some tap oil and they will mate much easier.
Zinc coating is marginal to make a difference in threads.
Looked like the thread was tapered
I believe nitto and many Australian companies sell amazing products to help with oiling issues for the RBs. These upgrades are almost a must sadly. Hope you don't run into any issues 🤞
yes i think you have to run the oil restrictors and external drain. these fixes basically mandatory
Buy a 2jz problem fixed
Isn't nitto a tire manufacturer? Lol
I can sleep better at night knowing that the crank bolt has been cleaned up and painted black, thanks guys.
It's awesome to see you guys both working on two of the main JDM legends now. Supra v Skyline battles lol. 2JZ&RB's love the engine and fabrication content during build season as much as the racing. Such clean engine stuff. Lots of attention to detail. That's the main thing for me is I really appreciate the details you put in!
Cheers
Cross-threading is more effective than Loctite.
Tight is tight! 😂
There are instances where cross threading something to prevent it backing out is literally the correct method of securing hardware. This is mostly common in regards to very small items, it is a common practice in the gun industry.
@@wma6019 LOL, no it isn’t. Cross threading is never acceptable, are you that dense?
@@TML34 I know a certain well known Gun Smith in the industry who would tell you otherwise... among many machinists especially old timey machinists...Keep in mind the type of cross threading I speak of Is calculated and measured by pitch and depth where a fastener will allow X amount of turns freely/by hand before the difference In thread pitches intersects and is what will prevent it from backing out...Sort of like Tapered threads except not... This is most commonly done in instances where depth is extremely limited.. such as fastening a sight block to a thin wall barrel.... it's Not simply ramming a fastener in a hole as shitty as you can with an impact until it stops.
@@TML34 you haven’t been around much in the automotive industry have you …. Literally they have the nut designed to burr or “cross” thread as a one use only on certain items to not allow the nut to back off …. Are you dense or just dense 😂😂😂
i love how SA does the best they can to build the cars and take in feed back without like it's a personal attack.
that said may favorite series is the FRS were you guys built it up and took it on a racing tour, THAT WAS EPIC!
im not saying do it again, just saying how awesome it was and i have re watched it like 5 times lol!
I have Tomei cams in my 1jzvvti jzx100, everybody told me they could break, I installed them EXACTLY as Tomei said no issues
i appreciate you guys keeping our Saturday morning tradition of a video, we do enjoy them
PT I would still highly advise doing the oil feed restrictor, arp head studs, MLS headgasket, and head oil drain. It is cheap insurance, you'll be surprised how fast even the stock pump drinks the pan dry. I can see mine drop quite a bit of pressure during a single pull.
oil feed restrictor isn't cheap insurance. its actually needed to not blow the engine. RBs can blow in 2 laps with the stock sump, and high flow pump, and no restrictor
100% the restrict or is needed. No doubt about that. He will have issues with running the pan dry.
I have been running the Tomei pump on my rb26for 7 years or so.I run the stock restrictions in the block but have a head drain in the rear of the head to a factory size sump with Tomei baffle kit.I run a single turbo also ball bearing.I run a 10w60 or better at all times.it’s in a drift car so gets a hard life. With the oil pump follow the instructions about setting the pressure at idle with the adjuster on the side of the pump. They supply copper washers to lower the pressure. To much pressure isn’t always best. It’s about getting it right.
Zink builds up the material so maybe the other fitting is already worn in al little bit.
By my former employer (in the cleanroom) we had zink bolts and we only where allowed to use them one, because the coating wheres of. There the zink bolts were used so you didn't had to use grease (witch was forbidden in the cleanroom). So the bolts always come out, even years later.
So if you thread in in and oud a couple of times it should go smoothly
In the western world most people are still learning the RB. The Ausiees and New Zelanders have built and daily drive 1000hp RBs reliably. Maatouks and others in Australia will set you right.
Common misconceptions about gaskets; they are designed to swell in the presence of oil, and that is what seals them. If you use permatex you're preventing the gaskets from their designed function.
I will add a thin coating of oil with my fingers to pre-swell the gaskets prior to install. Nothing significant, but better than a completely dry gasket.
Permabond has a great article called "Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using Anaerobic Adhesives".
Anaerobic stuff is not meant to be used with gaskets, it is meant to be used INSTEAD the gasket.
I see PT getting a bit annoyed with the RB with all it's minor challenges that it presents to him. Good job as always!
Permatex Right Stuff and Hondabond are the only two sealants you use on the planet. Period. Lol
Toyota fipg
Running an oil accumulator is a good option when you don't want to worry about surging, but not spend loads of money on a dry sump system.
Yep it's pretty cheap insurance really. And alot cheaper than going a proper dry sump kit. The accumsump can be mounted in the boot also. I'd be definitely looking I to one aswell as the block restrict or and rear head drain. And a good catch can with return line to the sump.
@@joshuawatson9486 I use mine primarily for pre-oiling since I don't drive my car often. But it's also good for surge control on the track. I made a custom oil pedestal so it's after the oil filter so I can use the oil filters drain back valve as a check valve. I mounted mine in the front bumper. It works quite well, but I'd recommend to use an electronic valve option instead of a manual one.
Cams aren't a bolt on part. It takes precision and care to assemble an engine. It's very easy to break engine internals. I think a lot of people make the mistake of following oem procedures for assembling aftermarket parts. And I think some people don't realize how fast the components are moving and why they need to be so precise.
Maybe when talking in terms of engines as glass like and fragile as the RB, but I can't think of anytime I've had a camshaft related failures simply from "bolting on" aftermarket cams, including high mileage engines and adding an extra 1,000 or 2,000rpms to their factory redline...
Cams are a bolt on part, pull bolts out put new parts (cams) in and bolts back in. FYI the cams are spinning half the speed of the crank.
@@keithbusch4014 "Bolt on parts" and or "bolt on applications" is a term or reference in the car community for performance upgrades that don't require disassemble of the engine or in other words they are external components which require minimal tools and knowledge.
@@reecebower9934 So some how the term bolt on is different for imports and domestic???????? Unfortunately your wrong, and I feel sorry for your car community. You don't have to comment back at me because I'm not interested anymore......KMFNB
@@keithbusch4014 🙂
This title 🤦♂️ if you over tighten the cam gears and bounce a piston off a valve yeah they might, just like any other cam. Edit: WD cam gear snapped off the end btw, hence my comment. Glad you guys explained correct installation and the facts
I totally understand your frustration with lack of provided instructions for parts. Especially when it’s comes to high end parts.
You guys always do the best engines and engine bays! Love the details! 👍
The other thing that causes cams to snap is people lose a head gasket and warp the head a little. Then the machine shop decks the head back to flat, and you bolt it back on. Perfect. Yeah, except the original machine work had the head deck and cam journals parallel, if you warped the head deck and machined it back to flat, what happened to the cam rotational plane? In most cases its fine at first, but the cam flexing from the misalignment between the journals will eventually fatigue the cam.
Wow that is something that I never even thought about in my 25 years of wrenching on my cars and flip cars…… I’m so guilty of just having the head decked and not aligning the cam hournals
@@BrainsofFrank you’ve never heard of
It because it’s never really an issue!
@@br4d101 it's not the case, people just don't put two and two together sometimes. The assumption is usually I overtorqued the cam caps, or the engine is xxx miles old, it was bound to happen, or some other reasonable explanation. But yes, some cams are more forgiving than others. I dunno, I just did 7 thou off a volvo xc70 5 cylinder, guess we'll see what happens...
@@BrainsofFrank you don't have a choice on modern engines, there aren't any bearings you can oversize... just put it together and hope it lasts long enough for rust to eat the car away lol back in the day, guys would tweak the head back by bolting it to a big chunk of machined steel, then shim and heat as necessary to get the head deck back into spec.
@@bgee461 I can see what you mean though and I agree with you but I’ve never known anyone to do it! Majority of people just slap an engine together, never really care about tolerances and it’ll work for years and years, them cams that WD had were brittle and seems as though they hadn’t been heat treated properly to be honest n was just to hard or the tempering process wasn’t correctly done! Never should of broke that easily!
Please let's all stop pandering to that guy, really merely mentioning him is why videos like his are made purely clickbait. SpeedAcademy keep making the awesome content that you usually do.
I know this video is old now, but I bought a 1JZ swapped IS300 back in 2020. The guy I bought it from put Tomei cams in it and had a cam break two different times. The second time it happened, Tomei sent him a set of HKS cams as a replacement. They were the same specs but cast by HKS instead of Tomei and they still work fine.
LMFAO, I laughed so hard when I saw that crank pulley bolt...I 100% said 'WHY are you going through so much effort to build such a beautiful looking engine....and you're going to put THAT thing back into it!?!'
Thanks PT, you're the bestest lol
Over here patiently waiting for more Tundra content.
The sealant is typically drying on contact with the air moisture. It's not unusual that after 4 days, specially in those grooves, the sealant is still wet (as there's no or very few contact with air)
It’s when you zinc plate it. Makes it a little bit thicker!
you should have soaked the header wrap in warm water before putting it on. it helps create a tight fit and coverage when it dries.
also, sometimes pipe threading gets slightly marred, but threads arent always perfect. if it's slightly tight, thats fine. if it's really really fighting you THEN i wouldnt keep threading in. the reason why it gets easier is because the threads will correct themselves and straighten out.
People like WD don't realize how much damage they do to companies reputations by being ignorant and putting crap like this out. Tomei has has been top tier for longer than he's been alive...
🤣🤣🤣
My set of poncams came with a specific warning to follow the torque sequence or risk breaking the cam. Never had and issue with them
@@tomsellout9576 exactly right, torque values and sequence on cams, head bolts and rod caps are critical. Plasti-gauge and a quality torque wrench, a dial indicator/calipers and a little bit of patience will net results or you can set fire to a stack of money and save a lot wasted effort and time doing it sloppy and blaming everyone else like "Whistlin Butthole"😂
@@petequinones3454 the cams even specifically stated the proper torque sequence WAS NOT the same as the oem toque sequence. When you say “oh yeah I know cams go inside to outside” well... you end up with broken tomei cams
@@tomsellout9576 I've never said anything about torquing cams inside to outside so I don't know where you came up with that. Tomei, as most have a 3 step gradual torqued spec. Example 2,6,9 ft. Lbs depending on application.
. It's always outside to inside on cams!! Head bolts are always start inside to outside in whatever sequence is called for on an application. I'm not an RB expert so I can't speak in absolutes. But I would guess that WD's end cap was either over torqued, improper clearance (shims) or possibly oiling issues. All would cause heat and stress. Either way Tomei is legendary in the tuning scene for decades and the latter is dude with a mullet trying to break stuff on YT for clicks, which would you rather be?
That diffuser teaser though 😍
Anaerobic sealants cure in the absence of air, like the metal to metal contact. There was still air present in those grooves so it did not harden
For flanges to come together, they require heat cycles.
Black, silver and red is looking so good!!
i use pro cam tomei 272 making 1050hp on 4wheel and i have zero issues with the cams and i`ve been racing it for 7 years .. with tomei you are safe .. thats how i see it
I hope the conclusion to this is an hour long masterpiece where you guys road trip the cars grand tour style, track them, drag, switch drivers, etc etc etc. maybe do something wild like take them camping. Legends building legends.
Did you talk to Garrett before you decided to weld up and redrill the oil feed banjo bolt? I'd assume if it's a bolt on turbo application from Garrett they'd know what the stock oil feed system is capable of and design the turbo to accommodate that. I know efr turbos come with a build in restrictor so you can run whatever feed you want.
It's insane the guys from the shop went along with that stunt. Cast is very brittle. It's meant to not wear with metal on metal contact and be very strong against heat.
You might want to look into an oil drain for the head too. The reason the big pumps empty the sump is because it gets pushed into the head and can't return fast enough. Why leave the stock baffle in the cam covers when you have an aftermarket baffle on it? As far as I'm aware, you remove the stock baffle which would give you the clearance you needed without breaking it.
The stock baffle has a metal substrate in it which I would think is needed to reduce the blow by so removing it kinda negates the idea of trying to keep as much of the oil in the covers as possible
Poor Pete. I feel your frustration man. Stay strong, some jobs don't go as smooth as others.
This channel and this series is gold.
Sure there was an installation error. You are right he thrives off the break stuff model. Its right up his alley
A lot of silicones and sealants will specify whether they are aerobic or anaerobic. Which will determine if the sealant cures with or without the absence or presence of oxygen.
The hyper tune rocker covers are meant for dry sump in Australia with there billet covers .try using HiOctain racing baffles. With steel mesh not the yellow foam.. They remove the original baffles All RB blow oil at high rpm . Big breathers and catch can
Nice work guys - good to see you enjoying #gtrlife
I'm running an R33 GTR with built RB26 with Nitto high-flow oil pump, similar to the Tomei one in terms of flow. Has 2860r-7 turbo's. Have 1.0mm restrictor to stop all the oil being sent to the head.
For what it's worth - have done ~5 track events without specific issues, stock sump capacity over-filled slightly (commonly done for track sessions).
Could benefit with an extended sump - you'll tend to see oil pressure start to drop from say 3kg/cm2 to 2kg/cm2 when you are > 7,000 RPM as it pulls oil out of the sump until you let it drain out.
Head Sump drain will probably help as well (I don't have this) - especially if you don't have an oil restrictor. Other option is head cam baffles as well or accusump if you lose oil pressure.
I felt this video 100%. I ran into the same problems when upgrading the twins on my car. Except I did it all with the engine still in the car
Must have been a NIGHTMARE to do it in the car!
Some RTV only vulcanizes when cut off from oxygen. So my guess is that those little grooves trapped a small pocket of air which probably slowed the vulcanizing process. Didn’t think that the Permatex ultra black reacted that way, but who knows. Keep up the great content guys! Looking forward to these cars going head-to-head in the spring!
Anaerobic sealant does that. This rtv does the opposite : it hardens transporting air and/or moisture from outside to inside. So it happens to trap inself inside grooves not hardened while thin layer of interface is hardened already. Not an rtv failure tho.
Hylomar is the best
Zinc plating process may have added some debris to the threads. Some careful wrenching and it goes right in!
2:03.. exactly...run the engine and it'll dry (cure) properly...
7:15.. good choice that one is better because the hole is actually bigger...bigger drain line is better with turbos
10:15.. that blue hose is fine especially since you covered it that's silicone hose is resistant to more heat than it's going to be in contact with
14:40 it's NPT... it's made to get tighter as you tighten...🤦♂️..or you have metric and standard fittings...giv'er
You can use Tomei cams. Just hit them on a rock first to do a hardness test.
The extra layer of zinc and the differences in tolerances due to old age/corrosion. Thats my guess on what was going on as to why that pipe would thread into one thing just fine but not into the correct spot.
Your issue with the threads are the plating. The new plating oversized the thread by a tiny bit. This is why galvanized BSP pipe fittings get the thread cut after the galvanizing treatment. In your case the fitting has a seat to seal the joint, so the thread isn't as crucial.
-As for the fuel lines that are nicely zinc plated, it could be just because they were torqued together before and their matching threads are that tight due to mesh/rollover. Should still make a solid seal with the flare as long as it's lined up and not cross threaded, but it prolly got gorilla wristed before.
-As for whistlin' - doesn't he just always break everything anyhow? I thought that was his schtick... being ignorant and wasteful....
-As for the oil drain lines, I was military at the time, and I went full AN across the car. It was all I knew anyhow lol.
-The RTV needs air to dry. If it's in a vacuum... it shouldn't dry fast at all. Heat will also "cure" the sealant.
Only advice I’d take from whistlindiesel is how to junk a perfectly good truck- aside from that, nah
Supposed to wet the header wrap then wrap then heat it up so it shrinks tight .. Can heat with a prepo torch
I hate the idea of introducing moisture into the wrap so I always do it dry
another technique to restrict the oil is to put a Nitrous pill before the turbo in the oil line, and if you're running those aftermarket baffles - you should drill out the rivets and remove the factory baffles, anyway you probably want to clean out the schmutz that has built up through the years behind them
The tomei turbo elbows will fit with this turbos and exhaust heat wrap. Even with turbo blanket. But you need to wrap just a thin layer on the front elbow and use every additional space in the holes in the header flange to cylinder head to push the front turbo as far as possible to the front and the back turbo as far as possible to the rear to create enough space between the front and the back turbo. If youre not doing it, you could run into fitting issue with the rear compressor housing to front elbow, and/ or rear inlet pipe to front elbow. I run into this issue, while i made it.
i used plastigage on a tomei cam and found it was a couple thou too tight… i think this is more common than people think and everyone thinks a cam is just drop in
Too tight compared to the recommended Tomei specs? Or just compared to OEM specs?
@@NightPwnGaming im talking about the journals
RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising, and it needs air to cure, otherwise it needs more heat to cure based on its exposure to air when you squeeze it out the tube.
This is such a nice build!
Can’t wait to see what kinda numbers you guys are making!!
You could use adhesion promoter or mist the FIGP (sealer) with water to get it to cure faster. Also you could use a humidifier in the shop to help sealer cure.
I've been a Heavy Duty Mechanic for fifteen years. That's not really that big a deal that some fittings fit in tighter than others. I've had that lots. You get a feel of when it's ok or when it's not. You used a hand wrench and it went in fine. It happens.
Anaerobic adhesives and anaerobic sealants cure in the absence of air or oxygen. They are designed for fastening and sealing applications in which a tight seal must be formed without light, heat or oxygen
I bet Tomei wont tell you they'll snap.. ive been building engines for 20+ yrs a couple RBs.. snapping cams is a install error.. over torqueing cam caps... heat... 💥
So what you're saying is that 5 ugga duggas on those cam caps is bad. Who knew?
@@bandwagon240 after 5 ugga duggas you need to slap em and say "those aren't going anywhere". That's the only way to prevent anything from moving from it's intended place
My poncams literally came with a warning to follow the proper torque sequence or risk snapping the cam with a cartoon Japanese guy holding a snapped cam lmao. User error
Now I cant remember for the life of me if I put rtv in those grooves in the front cam caps where you omitted the rtv. my initial reaction was that you are supposed to but maybe i just did the edge around the seal. definitely not under the mating surface the bolt goes through.
Hahahah this is the most real channel 😁 certified "struggle-while-working-on-cars" channel
Accusump! do so much for peace of mind. Really cool build
I'm excited for the "I told ya so" when those cams do break.
Explain why the cams will break after doing the proper install procedure.
@@speedacademy Honesty tho, I'm just talking shit. If Tomei had a major problem with them breaking i believe they would address that. Can't believe you replied.🤣🤣
Love the fresh crank pulley bolt. I just realised how triggered I was in the last video 😂😂
Permatex ULTRA GREY is the correct sealant to use.
It just needs to heat cycle.. I've seen it happen a few times. One of which was a timing cover that I pulled of a chevy 3.6l that didn't run after the timing components were replaced. The car sat for almost two weeks before I tore into it qnd the rtv gray was still tacky within the groves
I hope you put some thread locker on them bolts for the cam baffles. High rpm may back them out and then rip your motor.
You should be careful to use the genuine Garrett recommended oil feed fitting as it has a special taper fit at the one end to fit onto the pin that holds the bearing cage in place in the bearing housing. They also have a very specific sized orifice in order to provide the correct amount of oil to the ball bearing system. Definitely need to change those oil feed fittings that you made for the genuine Garret ones, they’re specifically made for ball bearing turbos.
You could use a plumbers pipe bending spring as well to support the hose from collapsing.
Inside the hose ? I would thing the metal on the spring insert would be aluminum or stainless
I use a lot of silicone sealant in my line of work, which is industrial mechanical. I see this same thing on silicone sealants that are closed off from outside air. I don’t think they can cure when they can’t outgas. That being said, it means that the pan was sealed.
I have had the coating on threads bung up the treads just enough to make it not work, I just ran a tap and die in both sides of the threads and it threaded in fine
Soundtracks in your videos are perfect. I shazamed already 3 of them and they become immediately my most listening songs. Don't you have some playlist somewhere?
Your best bet is to speak with nitto or crd in Australia 🇦🇺
Na kelford cams in nz!!
I dont know which is better. But I do know after watching this I would rather work on a 2jz. Getting to see this thing up close and personal is really cool.
Those painted engine covers look damn good!
I just love this channel.....Saudi Arabia
Perfectly normal for anaerobic adhesives.
I also hugely trust Pete and his skills and
Ability to assembly and engine that being said .... WHAT IF the cam broke ?
You should always wet the wrap before applying it. Apply it wet, it stretches on better and tighter and forms so much better. Use a spray bottle with water. Probably too late now, but you would have ended up with a much nicer and tigher form fitting wrap. Also it dosnt tend to unwrap itself and shift around like a dry wrap does over time.
Don’t think it was cross threading, but maybe held up on that coating adding thickness possibly?
Once the engine is complete, refitted and tuned, get some clear OEM engine ‘wax’ it will keep the zinc coated parts etc free from corrosion in your salty Canadian winters.
Issues with the lines was probably just tolerances, and the thickness of the new zinc plating on the lines.
Engineered Performance Racing out of Texas is doing some enlarged capacity OE oil pans. Looks pretty sweet.
My Suzuki cappuccino pan and timing cover have grooves like that. I used permatex black and no leaks since the summer. No idea if it's still damp but I'm not exactly taking it apart to check
Oh man this RB has been a pain but it's so worth it. Great job guys can't wait for the battle with the supra.
Wow good afternoon I have a 1972 Datsun 510 wagon I like to see what kind of motor would be good in it
Honestly bro, save yourself some time and trouble by talking to any of the major players here in Australia about do's and don'ts with building RBs. Alot of the info on the net about them is old or not entirely true. Best hear it from the real deal. Also Andrew from motive video is very well knowledgeable with gtrs too alot of people reach out to him for help. Love the work bro keep it going!
@14.39 your probably have to much stress or a burr on the pipe that's adding to much stress on the threads. Idk if you can use little bit of thread lubricant? Or even out the pressure on the pipe going in and check little burrs on threads and pipe.
i have pulled my 2jz pans multiple times within a few days (I'm an idiot or whatever) and I experienced the wet FIPG in the groves. Seems to be normal for those inner groves take forever to cure.
Enjoying the RB vs 2JZ builds immensely. In regards to the Tomei manifolds, I don't have personal experience, but I've read that those can crack at the welds. They have a newer full cast manifold which is supposed to address that issue. May be worth looking into.
I watched the video that you're talking about where he broke the cams. I have broken a cam before in tech School. It was a isky electro-motive camshaft that was a regrind and it snapped because I installed it wrong. Since then I have installed every cam appropriately and have not broken one since. They are hardened so that way they do not wear and if you do not install them correctly they will shatter. So do you want a cam that slowly wears out in your engine or do you want a camshaft that when installed properly last forever? Anyway awesome video I would pick an rb any day of the week over a 2J even though I know the 2J will make more power and probably be more reliable stock vs stock.