The design and saw in general looks really good impressive work but if i might add a little helpful safety tip i'd highly recormend adding a rivingknife just to make the saw even safer would avoid many kickback situations
Should be easy enough for him to cut a splitter slot. Though the way they saw is mounted the rear handle may get in the way of him putting it all the way through the cabinet. He can just have a small splitter in slot in the table though.
Great idea, can’t help thinking that the rails would be better on the bottom, and the bearings on the sliding table to reduce the dust going into the open bearings when exposed❤
Agreed, also don't like the bearings leaving the rails when they move back and forth. Usually manufacturers will use longer rails to accomodate increased length.
Probably one of the best builds on youtube. You deserve 1m views. You mention its not as good as other sliding table saws but what are the limitations, cut height? Anything else? Curious of how youre considering angled cuts or other jigs or vertical fence? Id be curious how/if you add a router to it. My suggestion would be to add a router to the right of the saw and use a vertical fence for both but again your simplistic engineering would rather see what you come up with than copy what i consider the better designs. Very Well done!
What a great design. Would definitely replace my cabinet saw for this given how much space it takes up in my garage and the type of projects I'm working on. Great vid!
I'm glad you built this. I've thought about a worm drive for this application, or a cordless "worm drive" style simply for the power and torque. But they tilt opposite than a sidewinder. When used with a rip fence on the right side of the blade... doesn't work. Slide table on left does work, like you did here. I guess if you don't need to use the fence to rip a bevel you're good. I like seeing your version here. I've seen many and have been meticulously planning, designing, rethinking, and re-rethinking my own version. Ultimately, I'd like a cordless, transportable one for use on small remodeling jobs I do. Thankfully, Festool has one now that's way out of my price range. All that said, good job on your build. It has me re-rethinking the worm drive angle. Why not have the rip fence on the left and slide table on the right? Here we go...
Please let me know if you build it - I'd be so curious to see what you invent! I originally wanted to make this one portable as well, but it just ended becoming a shop fixture. Question - how would you do cordless? Like what would be the triggering method?
I build cabinets and I actually thought about doing something like this a few years ago before I decided to just bite the bullet and spend $15k on a new shop saw. I like to think it paid for itself after about a year since it did make me way more productive, happier, and my quality of work improved as a result.
couple of comments or tips if you will. you might think about slipping a playing card under the sliding table, its nice to have the stock clear the table just a smidge. You might drill some holes near the blade to help pull in more air and bring in more dust. This is a great build. Very nicely done
Thanks, and yes I've read that - having the sliding element slightly proud helps to eliminate drag / friction, and other benefits. Great idea on some extra holes near the blade. The suction is just strong enough to sort of suck in the off-cut, and when the blade is winding down it grinds a little impression into it. I think some strategically placed holes would help a lot to solve that. Thank you!
@@acanadianwoodworker again I think this is so awesome. im always in awe when someone builds a great tool! having some clamping solutions on the table are really nice, for yours micro jig dovetail clamps might be perfect. I am in the process after 4 years of owning a slider of building a fritz/franz jig for small stuff. there are a lot of things that sliders do well and some stuff they do not! but a F/F jig looks like it eliminates a lot of the not so good stuff.
Great Work! It seems very smooth like butter. I would like to recommend Riving Knife for your Safty. This Channel is my best No.1 Woodworking Channel in UA-cam. I Do like your comfortable speaking and earnest attitude. It helps my woodworking thoughts better than any loud channels. /From South Korea
Hey, nice design! However, you should flip the rail and the bearings... they'll accumulate sawdust and stop working properly in this manner. If you flip them, it'll be just the rail that get the sawdust and you then can add a little brush at both the beginning and the end of your saw to "scrape away" the dust on it.
I have a sliding saw idea you have not seen. I am going to build a sliding table for my mark v 510. I should be able to do it in the next few months. I just purchase $300 in router molderbits. I got the bright idea to save my daughter a few bucks. She is a artist and she was bitching about the cost of a canvas. So I started making little frames to stretch the canvas on and gave her 5 or 6 canvases. Then I thought man her art would really look good if it is framed. So to save her a few bucks I had to spend $300. Lol . I love the approach you took on it. I seen a video of a add on slide table and he mounted the rails to the base and the slide blocks under the bottom side of the sled/slider. h=He then had to brace his underside of the table slide. I said man the base needs the bearings and the slide the track & no need to brace the carriage because the rail will. Then I got the idea to build a removable one for the mark V. I like building tool IU use. My profile has a scroll saw and 2x72 grinder I built
I'm interested in doing something similar, but I'd really like to use the Sawstop JSS as the basis, it'd be awesome if I could transplant everything into my own frame so I can get the sliding table up close to the blade. But barring that I'd probably make a replacement rip fence that frames around the saw, with the slider attached on the left of it, using aluminum linear rail and gantry carts for the rip fence and slider, the stuff they use for CNC machines.
That would be amazing! Ive never seen a full transplant of the guts of a high end job site saw into a new body, that would be really interesting to watch.
I'm making a similar project with a slight difference. I'm using SFC20 Guide Rails instead of 16mm supported rails you have used. Doing so, the rails will be fixed on the table to make alignment a bit easier. So the sliding part will be fixed on Slide Blocks. The only issue I may have a problem can be sagging of the sliding table on top of 4 blocks. I may end up a shorted sliding side, which will look awkward, or use 6 blocks. How about blade left circular saws? There are circular saws with blade left but don't know the relative performance to a worm drive, haven't tried both.
From what Ive seen the worm drive saw is much more powerful than a normal blade left circular saw. The geared drive gives it an enormous amount of torque. Yes 20mm rails sound a lot more solid. If you're worried about your table sagging, you can make a low profile 'Torsion box' and that should be very stiff
Existe algun problema en que la sierra esté al revés? Problemas con la lubricacion o algo asi... hace mucho tiempo que quisiera hacer algo asi, gracias por responder ❤
I know it would have cost a couple of hundred bucks more, but did you consider using a 10 1/4" beam saw for more depth of cut? What is your depth of cut now about 2 1/2 inches max? Also does the miter gauge adjust to cut actual miters or can you reach in and adjust the table on the saw itself to cut miters/bevels??
Actually its only (just over) 1.5" cut, because the saw is mounted underneath 3/4 MDF which eats up blade depth. Almost as soon as I made it, I started looking at every possible alternate just out of curiosity, looked at all the beam saw models, etc and tried to imagine a version with more blade depth. I made the miter gauge on a swivel point to do different angles in the future but haven't used it like that so far. If I ever do a v2 version it would be cool to go all the way and have every depth and angle feature a real sliding TS has.
Just with the normal mechanism of the circular saw. I just roll back the slider, and then you have access to the saw (just underneath a panel to keep dust in)
That's a great question. Actually I intentionally left bevelling out of this design. I want to use it for drawers & cabinets so its all 90 degree cuts. If you wanted to bevel, it breaks down like this: The way the saw is built, if you bevel the blade, it swings a long way. So you need a fairly wide 'throat' on the plate to accommodate that. Its fine if you use the saw normally, but as soon as it's upside down, that wide throat would just allow too much stuff to fall into the blade/saw. Like say if you were trimming a 1/4 inch off a 2x4 or something, it would be constantly falling into that wide throat. Also, the way the saw bevels it would swing the motor out towards the operator, and also into the rails of the sliding table, so it would get awkward quickly, design wise. I'm sure there's a way to do it elegantly, but I just haven't figured it out yet!
I remember seeing something called a 'splitter' which was sort of like a riving knife, but hard-mounted into the table in line with the blade. Maybe something like that?
Hell yes there's a reason :)! Its two reasons: The first is the way the rail guides are bolted on - I wouldn't have as easy access from the top. Or have to drill a bunch of holes in the sliding top which would be a buzzkill. The second is that the linear rails serve to further stiffen the top and keep it straight.
Thats a very nice design, I'm totally stealing the "telescopic" linear rail design you made. Did you have any issues with dust in the bearings after using the saw for a couple of months? I'm contemplating flipping the bearings and rails around, however I see that your design adds a lot of stiffness to the moving slide.
The saw is in a little MDF vacuum box basically, so no dust shoots outs the side. The blocks/bearings stay fairly clean. I hit them with compressed air now and again and they are holding up well.
I built one of these and the problem is the worm drive saw has oil in the gear box it's not designed to be run upside-down my saw malfunctioned in a short time.
Once you pull back the sliding table portion you have access to the saw. You just use all the saw's own functionality/levers to adjust it, just like it was outside the table.
![[Woodworking DIY] Make your own table saw with Makita circular saw / Main body production](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jvOZNiS4-zg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Woodworking DIY] Make your own table saw with Makita circular saw / Main body production](/img/tr.png)
Amazing work ❤
The design and saw in general looks really good impressive work but if i might add a little helpful safety tip i'd highly recormend adding a rivingknife just to make the saw even safer would avoid many kickback situations
Should be easy enough for him to cut a splitter slot. Though the way they saw is mounted the rear handle may get in the way of him putting it all the way through the cabinet.
He can just have a small splitter in slot in the table though.
You really only need a riving knife when using a fence, I didn't see a fence or hear him say anything about adding one in the video!
Great idea, can’t help thinking that the rails would be better on the bottom, and the bearings on the sliding table to reduce the dust going into the open bearings when exposed❤
Agreed, also don't like the bearings leaving the rails when they move back and forth. Usually manufacturers will use longer rails to accomodate increased length.
Probably one of the best builds on youtube. You deserve 1m views.
You mention its not as good as other sliding table saws but what are the limitations, cut height? Anything else?
Curious of how youre considering angled cuts or other jigs or vertical fence?
Id be curious how/if you add a router to it. My suggestion would be to add a router to the right of the saw and use a vertical fence for both but again your simplistic engineering would rather see what you come up with than copy what i consider the better designs.
Very
Well done!
What a great design. Would definitely replace my cabinet saw for this given how much space it takes up in my garage and the type of projects I'm working on. Great vid!
I'm glad you built this. I've thought about a worm drive for this application, or a cordless "worm drive" style simply for the power and torque. But they tilt opposite than a sidewinder. When used with a rip fence on the right side of the blade... doesn't work. Slide table on left does work, like you did here. I guess if you don't need to use the fence to rip a bevel you're good.
I like seeing your version here. I've seen many and have been meticulously planning, designing, rethinking, and re-rethinking my own version. Ultimately, I'd like a cordless, transportable one for use on small remodeling jobs I do. Thankfully, Festool has one now that's way out of my price range.
All that said, good job on your build. It has me re-rethinking the worm drive angle. Why not have the rip fence on the left and slide table on the right? Here we go...
Please let me know if you build it - I'd be so curious to see what you invent! I originally wanted to make this one portable as well, but it just ended becoming a shop fixture. Question - how would you do cordless? Like what would be the triggering method?
I just wasted to say thank you for your video very helpful and ty for the plans Your awesome, wish more on UA-cam were like you.
Great table saw. Detailed, I love it. Wow I can save a lot of money with this build. Thank you. 🇿🇦
As usual, great work! I enjoy watching your videos. Good stuff!
I build cabinets and I actually thought about doing something like this a few years ago before I decided to just bite the bullet and spend $15k on a new shop saw. I like to think it paid for itself after about a year since it did make me way more productive, happier, and my quality of work improved as a result.
Enhorabuena, que gran proyecto.
This was a pleasure, much fun and very educating to watch. Thanks for posting.
couple of comments or tips if you will. you might think about slipping a playing card under the sliding table, its nice to have the stock clear the table just a smidge. You might drill some holes near the blade to help pull in more air and bring in more dust. This is a great build. Very nicely done
Thanks, and yes I've read that - having the sliding element slightly proud helps to eliminate drag / friction, and other benefits. Great idea on some extra holes near the blade. The suction is just strong enough to sort of suck in the off-cut, and when the blade is winding down it grinds a little impression into it. I think some strategically placed holes would help a lot to solve that. Thank you!
@@acanadianwoodworker again I think this is so awesome. im always in awe when someone builds a great tool!
having some clamping solutions on the table are really nice, for yours micro jig dovetail clamps might be perfect. I am in the process after 4 years of owning a slider of building a fritz/franz jig for small stuff. there are a lot of things that sliders do well and some stuff they do not! but a F/F jig looks like it eliminates a lot of the not so good stuff.
Great Work! It seems very smooth like butter. I would like to recommend Riving Knife for your Safty. This Channel is my best No.1 Woodworking Channel in UA-cam. I Do like your comfortable speaking and earnest attitude. It helps my woodworking thoughts better than any loud channels.
/From South Korea
Thank you so much for your generous comment! Yes, I will add riving knife soon!
Great build, clearly detailed video. Thank you!
nice implementation! I love what you did 👍🏽
"Fine dining vs fastfood" - I like the comparison
Hey, nice design! However, you should flip the rail and the bearings... they'll accumulate sawdust and stop working properly in this manner. If you flip them, it'll be just the rail that get the sawdust and you then can add a little brush at both the beginning and the end of your saw to "scrape away" the dust on it.
I have a sliding saw idea you have not seen. I am going to build a sliding table for my mark v 510. I should be able to do it in the next few months. I just purchase $300 in router molderbits. I got the bright idea to save my daughter a few bucks. She is a artist and she was bitching about the cost of a canvas. So I started making little frames to stretch the canvas on and gave her 5 or 6 canvases. Then I thought man her art would really look good if it is framed. So to save her a few bucks I had to spend $300. Lol .
I love the approach you took on it. I seen a video of a add on slide table and he mounted the rails to the base and the slide blocks under the bottom side of the sled/slider. h=He then had to brace his underside of the table slide. I said man the base needs the bearings and the slide the track & no need to brace the carriage because the rail will. Then I got the idea to build a removable one for the mark V. I like building tool IU use. My profile has a scroll saw and 2x72 grinder I built
I'm interested in doing something similar, but I'd really like to use the Sawstop JSS as the basis, it'd be awesome if I could transplant everything into my own frame so I can get the sliding table up close to the blade. But barring that I'd probably make a replacement rip fence that frames around the saw, with the slider attached on the left of it, using aluminum linear rail and gantry carts for the rip fence and slider, the stuff they use for CNC machines.
That would be amazing! Ive never seen a full transplant of the guts of a high end job site saw into a new body, that would be really interesting to watch.
I'm making a similar project with a slight difference. I'm using SFC20 Guide Rails instead of 16mm supported rails you have used. Doing so, the rails will be fixed on the table to make alignment a bit easier. So the sliding part will be fixed on Slide Blocks. The only issue I may have a problem can be sagging of the sliding table on top of 4 blocks. I may end up a shorted sliding side, which will look awkward, or use 6 blocks.
How about blade left circular saws? There are circular saws with blade left but don't know the relative performance to a worm drive, haven't tried both.
From what Ive seen the worm drive saw is much more powerful than a normal blade left circular saw. The geared drive gives it an enormous amount of torque. Yes 20mm rails sound a lot more solid. If you're worried about your table sagging, you can make a low profile 'Torsion box' and that should be very stiff
I like it
Can you post a link to where you got the safety slippers you wear? 🤪🤪🤪
🤣🤣
Existe algun problema en que la sierra esté al revés? Problemas con la lubricacion o algo asi... hace mucho tiempo que quisiera hacer algo asi, gracias por responder ❤
I I love it but I would add some type of mitre function to that fence❤
Yeah in version 2.0 I think I'd add mitering fence, angle adjustment to the blade, and some kind of sheet metal top like 1/8 aluminum or something
I know it would have cost a couple of hundred bucks more, but did you consider using a
10 1/4" beam saw for more depth of cut? What is your depth of cut now about 2 1/2 inches max? Also does the miter gauge adjust to cut actual miters or can you reach in and adjust the table on the saw itself to cut miters/bevels??
Actually its only (just over) 1.5" cut, because the saw is mounted underneath 3/4 MDF which eats up blade depth. Almost as soon as I made it, I started looking at every possible alternate just out of curiosity, looked at all the beam saw models, etc and tried to imagine a version with more blade depth. I made the miter gauge on a swivel point to do different angles in the future but haven't used it like that so far. If I ever do a v2 version it would be cool to go all the way and have every depth and angle feature a real sliding TS has.
This is really nice, the build is neat and quite simple. How do you raise and lower the saw blade though?
Just with the normal mechanism of the circular saw. I just roll back the slider, and then you have access to the saw (just underneath a panel to keep dust in)
Like and subscribe! Greetings from Ukraine. I have nice table saw, but I want to built another one.
Отличный станок, спасибо за идею) Получилось весьма эстетично. Смущают немного подшипники, они не забьются пылью? Чертежи у Вас в продаже?
The saw is in a box, which keeps the bearings from getting dusty. Yes I have very basic plans. I will add them for free as a PDF
@@acanadianwoodworker Thank you very much, you are a good person!
Does using a left-blade circular saw mess with your ability to do bevel cuts? Or would you just have to put the fence on the other side?
That's a great question. Actually I intentionally left bevelling out of this design. I want to use it for drawers & cabinets so its all 90 degree cuts. If you wanted to bevel, it breaks down like this: The way the saw is built, if you bevel the blade, it swings a long way. So you need a fairly wide 'throat' on the plate to accommodate that. Its fine if you use the saw normally, but as soon as it's upside down, that wide throat would just allow too much stuff to fall into the blade/saw. Like say if you were trimming a 1/4 inch off a 2x4 or something, it would be constantly falling into that wide throat. Also, the way the saw bevels it would swing the motor out towards the operator, and also into the rails of the sliding table, so it would get awkward quickly, design wise. I'm sure there's a way to do it elegantly, but I just haven't figured it out yet!
do you think it'd be easy to add some sort of riving knife?
I remember seeing something called a 'splitter' which was sort of like a riving knife, but hard-mounted into the table in line with the blade. Maybe something like that?
Is there a reason why you chose to have the lineR rails attached to the sliding table rather than spanning the base unit?
Hell yes there's a reason :)! Its two reasons: The first is the way the rail guides are bolted on - I wouldn't have as easy access from the top. Or have to drill a bunch of holes in the sliding top which would be a buzzkill. The second is that the linear rails serve to further stiffen the top and keep it straight.
❤
Thats a very nice design, I'm totally stealing the "telescopic" linear rail design you made. Did you have any issues with dust in the bearings after using the saw for a couple of months?
I'm contemplating flipping the bearings and rails around, however I see that your design adds a lot of stiffness to the moving slide.
The saw is in a little MDF vacuum box basically, so no dust shoots outs the side. The blocks/bearings stay fairly clean. I hit them with compressed air now and again and they are holding up well.
I built one of these and the problem is the worm drive saw has oil in the gear box it's not designed to be run upside-down my saw malfunctioned in a short time.
I'm sorry to hear that! Worm drives are expensive. I never knew the gear oil is gravity based - thats something to watch out for
How do you adjust the blade height?
Once you pull back the sliding table portion you have access to the saw. You just use all the saw's own functionality/levers to adjust it, just like it was outside the table.