I was enthusiastic about Solarez Grain filler after hearing what you had to say. I wanted to use Crystalac it's Knot Shellac as a sealer first. I applied 3 coats at roughly 30 minute intervals, sanding between coats to level the raised grain. Let it dry for at least 12 hours, and applied the Solarez. The Solarez refused to cure. I tried to remove it with acetone, but it wouldn't budge. I sanded down to what I thought was bare wood, and re-applied. After more than an hour if full sun, it was still tacky. It did cure well on bare wood. I also tried some over some well cured wipe on poly, and it remained tacky. The stuff I got does not have the microballoons. I might still use it, but won't try it on top of anything again, I enjoy your videos. I am really glad I followed your advice and tried everything on a practice piece first.
Apparently Solarez Grain Filler doesn't play well with certain products as you discovered. I'm glad you tested it first instead of applying it to your project. I would stick to applying it over bare wood.
just some friendly advice from a fellow luthier: with epoxy man - 1 use a squeegee to scrape it if you want it thin - like a sealer - no lint. and 2 if you want it thick just put it on thick with a natural brush kind of patting it on then wait about 5 minutes and go over it with a propane torch to smooth and get rid of bubbles. you can wet sand and buff epoxy just the same as well.
Im no pro and doing one as a side project. But squeegee is leaving it too thick for pore/grain filling. Spreading it with fingers and drying wiping with cloth i feel like its giving it just enough wetness for the zpoxy to seep in the pores, and the cloth wipes of the excess top layer that the resin finish might create. After all, we're just filling the pores
@@cleangoblin2021 then scrape harder with the squeegee, make sure it's a rubber one. Also I have used zpoxy, which is fine but it does change the color of everything because it's very amber and it does not have a very long open coat time.
I have found that using a Credit Card to applying the Z-Poxy works well. I have also put masking tape on my finger and use that to smear it out. The Z-Poxy doesn't stick to the Masking Tape so it is good for applying it.
Nice. In the past I would dry everything in a small area that I had enclosed in taped off plastic sheets, using a small fan to pull air out of the enclosure, and a box fan, sometimes running on low, other times off, neither was consistently better, that had two decent furnace filters, 1" thick, taped to a cheap HEPA filter, with a mechanical filter, for dust, lint, hair, large pollen grains, etc., on the outermost layer, all taped to the outside of the box fan. The small fan pulling air out eventually was attached to flexible tubing, and the tubing attached to a vent that was ported to the outside air. Worked great, and it was like a sauna treatment to work in there, sweating out toxins by the cupful. I used to own three lab clean room overalls, that I could just machine wash each usage. I would soak one with sweat, saturated, with each body/job (I built some occasional custom furniture or art pieces for a friend's business), so I'd step out, remove the saturated suit, refill my old crappy sprayer, put on a new suit, shoot the next job. All of that stuff is now gone, it all became to worn out by the time we moved here and set up my temporary (nine years) shop.
Went looking for how to transfer a image to a guitar body for beginners and BAM there you are offering a whole step by step tut. Awesome work your doing. Wish i had the room to do projects like this. Till then i keep on watching you do your thing.
I have a 78 Harmony P Bass I'm refinishing and the body is plywood. It's mostly stripped and I have some Z-Poxy but I am thinking about ordering some total boat fairing epoxy first to smooth out the body and then when that's done I'll hit it with the z-poxy.
Chris, Thank you! I appreciate the excellent content and want to acknowledge the significant time and production work that goes into these videos. This video was particular helpful as I have been looking for an EV finish. I really love the ones I have seen on higher end guitars. Thanks again.
Very informative video - I build drums instead of guitars, but the finishing techniques are very similar. As a general rule, I feel obliged to give a thumbs down to anyone wearing a CSU cap, but I held back. Go Pokes!
I just subscribed to your channel I've been looking for a way to redo the top of my acoustic guitar it's a baby taylor mahogany. Do you have any tips on this. Thanks
Hi Chris, thanks for the many great videos but I have a question for you. Why not just use multiple coats of the resin instead of using 3 different products? Also, how much epoxy did you use for one coat? The reason why I‘m asking is that here in Europe only the 4 oz bottles are available through Amazon and I‘d like to have enough on hand.
Each coat of the Z-Poxy Finishing Resin makes the wood get darker and darker. So I use one coat for color (it looks a lot like boiled linseed oil) and I fill the grain with the Solarez ICBINL, which dries clear. Then I topcoat with the Brite Tone because it buffs out nicer. 4oz of the Z-Poxy will be enough for one guitar with a little left over.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the reply. I’ve been using Tru Oil on some past projects and had the same effect. Didn’t bother me though so I‘m going to give the epoxy a go.
Perfect timing on your upload of this video. I was wondering if the Brite Tone could be used over a Solar Rez base. Any issues with adhesion after scuffing with 320? Thank you for sharing your experience and experiments in finishing with us all. :)
I scuffed to 400 grit and had no problem with adhesion so 320 will work fine. The reason I scuff to 400 is that it takes more coats of Brite Tone to cover the scratches left by coarser grits like 220 and 320.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you so much..i just tried solarez and could not keep it nib free..so level sanded with 400 grit and hand rubbed brite tone on..it looks great..i was concerned it might peel..so thanks again.
Can I apply Z Poxy over a dyed guitar? Specifically, I'm doing an edge burst with dye, and want to be sure the Z Poxy Poxy won't disturb the dye, and how it fades to the natural wood I'm leaving on the bulk of the guitar. Thanks for all your great videos. Your positive instruction has given me the courage to advance from exclusively hand finishing, to using an HVLP sprayer.
Yes you can. However, you should test on some scrap first to see if you like the result. Z-Poxy can darken the color and wood a bit so testing is a good idea. Also, you can apply some rattle can shellac to fix the color before spreading on the Z-Poxy.
Hey Chris, I really enjoy/appreciate your videos. I know this is 4 years old, but do I surmise from this finishing video that you finish all the parts before gluing in the neck? I ask because I'm in the Z-Poxy filler portion of a mahogany set neck Explorer style guitar and finishing the whole guitar at once will create a bit of a challenge for me. Thank you if you see this!
That is exactly what I did. I prefer to finish the neck and body before glueing unless I have painted the body and neck the same solid color or have a sculpted heel to body transition.
Using crystalac on my current acoustic thanks to your recommendation. Probably one of the easiest finishes I've used and looks great. I did have a problem with the sanding sealer reactingvwithvthe tannins in my redwood top and turning it black. Used some oxilic acid to rectify the problem. Went back to shellac as a sealer first. Thanks for the videos
@@HighlineGuitars Wait...so the two products are very similar? If so, why bother with Solarez sealer when the Z-Poxy base coat should have sealed the wood.
I am refinishing my Fender Strat. I took the body to the bare wood. Painted with Black-Cherry-Peral automotive paint (several coats). Used a 3000grit to clean prior to using a few very light automotive clear coats. I want a deeper and harder finish to the guitar. Can I now go with the Z-Poxy to finalize for a hard finish and just buff it afterwards?
hi i've been using the solarez uv cure poly grain filler, and like the results, but their poly gloss resin topcoat has been kinda hit and miss... does the icbinl grain fill formula work as a fill and top gloss all in one? also, since i've already had success with their poly fill resin, could i use the icbinl brush on formula as a top gloss coat over that? thanks!
The ICBINL grain sealer is a bit softer and easier to sand than the ICBINL top coat product. However, on woods that have less severe grain and pores, you can use the top coat as a sealer/filler. I just did a test with the ICBINL over the polyester filler and it worked fine.
Another great video. Do you have any experience with shooting Brite Tone directly over the Zpoxy? Some people sand to bare wood after using Zpoxy, some are leaving a thin film - and that's the way I prefer to do it. But should I be concerned about adhesion issues between Brite Tone and Zpoxy? Thanks!
@@pigjubby1 zpoxy is a grain filler, not a sanding sealer. In anyway - I asked this question about 7 months ago, and now I can tell: no adhesion issues when using britetone over zpoxy
@@pigjubby1 Some suggest that you should sand untill you only left with the zpoxy inside the pores, others are going for a thin film, and that's the way I did it. It's just too easy to leave tiny bits of zpoxy on top of the surface and then you might get a blotchy look. I did two or three thin layers (don't remember exactly) using a spreader/squeegee trying to squeeze the zpoxy into the pores, not leaving a lot of unneeded excess on the surface. I basically stopped after all the pores got completely filled (again, two or three applications, preferably with about 6+ hours dry time between coats). After letting the last coat dry, I level sanded with 220, I believe, maybe 320 (it doesn't matter that much). Final results: all the pores got filled, and I left with a thin film on top of the surface. Again, without any problems of building layers of crystalac sanding sealer+clear coat on top of it
@@HighlineGuitars Oh thank you so much for the quick response...iam usually using thin superglue for that purpose and its working well but i needed a less messy alternative....
Thank you for a very informative video on your guitar finishing process. Quick question... i was under the impression that the Solarez being a polyester based resin would not adhere to a epoxy based resin such as Z-Poxy. Is that not true? are you finding the polyester adheres to the epoxy? Thank you
Hey Chris, after you've sprayed your final coats of crystalac satin, do you still level sand and buff afterwards? Or what exactly is your process when using the crystalac satin brite-tone?
Chris...Thanks for your very informative videos. They have helped tremendously. I have a question about the Solarez grain filler. Could you add pigment to this like in your other techniques to enhance the grain? Also, I see that Solarez now has a filler/sealer combo. What are your thoughts on this?
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the quick reply! That's what I figured but thought I would ask. In that case if you wanted to highlight the grain would you use one of your other techniques to do so and then use the Solarez filler sealer for the top coat after staining?
i need your help. What is a good non-toxic (WB or epoxy is fine) finish i can brush on? I will try to refinish an explorer in white so ideally would be a pigmented epoxy or WB finish. Any experience with this?
Great video as usual, thank you. I have been experimenting a lot with Solarez since you first introduced it... I love it so far, but am trying to expand its use. I have successfully used ICBINL as atop clear coat over aerosol glitter paint and it is very, very successful and looks great. But have you had any success in adding any sort of pigment or dye to the ICBINL ? If so, what kind. Also have you tried to use the ICBINL over colored Notro after it has cured ? Thanks
I have not tried tinting ICBINL because I fear it will cause problems with the UV cure. Since I don't use nitro anymore, I don't know if there would be any compatibility issues.
@@HighlineGuitars apparently you can, according to their website, but when I ask them what type (i.e. water based, acrylic etc) they do not answer. To your point, It does say that the closer to "RED" pigment you use, to use less so it will cure faster and they also suggest using a small biit of MEKP. Well, I will attempt it and let you know.
All of them. However, since you don't need to fill the grain on a Maple fretboard, I'd go with the Z-Poxy to enhance the grain and color and either the Solarez or Crystalac for the topcoat. You don't really need both.
@@HighlineGuitars when I visited Solarez I asked that question and he said no to polyester on top of epoxy and showed me some surfboards as to what happens later on. He reccomended using vinyl ester and using polyester UV ear on top. Of course you dont surf on a guitar, ha. Ill find out if the "lacquer" can be used over epoxy. Enjoy your painting how to's. As a forty year painter, you are the only one that really has it down
Hi bought some z poxy the 30 min one ..Pacer Zap PT-39 Z-POXY 30 Minute Epoxy Resin 8oz Pack PT39 not the finishing one and wanted follow what you had done but waiting see what you say before I use it incase its the wrong one especially as I'm putting it on an acrylic painted guitar ? Thankyou
You can't thin Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer. Apply it and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. It will be as level as it can get. Be careful on vertical surfaces as it can sag if it sits for too long. It's a good idea to keep turning it every couple of minutes like it's on a rotisserie.
If you were going to take your finish to a high gloss on this guitar, would you still use crystalalac as the top coat or would you just stop at Solarez and finish with the solarez as your top coat? Why would you use the Solarez I can't believe it is not lacquer as opposed to the Solarez polyester resin. I have seen you use both. Apparently the polyeseter resin is more scratch resistant but why the I can't believe it's not lacquer over the polyester resin?
Good question. The polyester resin is hard to work with as it is very temperature sensitive. ICBINL is easier to work with and sands much easier than the polyester. That said, Crystalac Brite Tone yields a better high gloss shine than ICBINL.
I want to do this exact method on a build for the quickness, and the fact I have a spalted maple top, it would seem the best route to stabilize the top with the zpoxy. I want to do a darker honey burst, My one question is the crystalac Top coat tintable with the craftnique pigments?
So I won’t need to buy the Craftnique Grande Finale along with the high solids poly top coat your using here? Thanks for the reply. Tried looking for you in amateur luthier on FB couldn’t find you! Haha
I was enthusiastic about Solarez Grain filler after hearing what you had to say. I wanted to use Crystalac it's Knot Shellac as a sealer first. I applied 3 coats at roughly 30 minute intervals, sanding between coats to level the raised grain. Let it dry for at least 12 hours, and applied the Solarez. The Solarez refused to cure. I tried to remove it with acetone, but it wouldn't budge. I sanded down to what I thought was bare wood, and re-applied. After more than an hour if full sun, it was still tacky. It did cure well on bare wood. I also tried some over some well cured wipe on poly, and it remained tacky. The stuff I got does not have the microballoons. I might still use it, but won't try it on top of anything again, I enjoy your videos. I am really glad I followed your advice and tried everything on a practice piece first.
Apparently Solarez Grain Filler doesn't play well with certain products as you discovered. I'm glad you tested it first instead of applying it to your project. I would stick to applying it over bare wood.
just some friendly advice from a fellow luthier: with epoxy man - 1 use a squeegee to scrape it if you want it thin - like a sealer - no lint. and 2 if you want it thick just put it on thick with a natural brush kind of patting it on then wait about 5 minutes and go over it with a propane torch to smooth and get rid of bubbles. you can wet sand and buff epoxy just the same as well.
Im no pro and doing one as a side project. But squeegee is leaving it too thick for pore/grain filling.
Spreading it with fingers and drying wiping with cloth i feel like its giving it just enough wetness for the zpoxy to seep in the pores, and the cloth wipes of the excess top layer that the resin finish might create.
After all, we're just filling the pores
@@cleangoblin2021 then scrape harder with the squeegee, make sure it's a rubber one. Also I have used zpoxy, which is fine but it does change the color of everything because it's very amber and it does not have a very long open coat time.
@garyscott6439 hi I bought the 30 min and was going use it on a guitar I painted with watercolour paints .it's ad clear so it isn't? Cheers
I have found that using a Credit Card to applying the Z-Poxy works well. I have also put masking tape on my finger and use that to smear it out. The Z-Poxy doesn't stick to the Masking Tape so it is good for applying it.
Nice. In the past I would dry everything in a small area that I had enclosed in taped off plastic sheets, using a small fan to pull air out of the enclosure, and a box fan, sometimes running on low, other times off, neither was consistently better, that had two decent furnace filters, 1" thick, taped to a cheap HEPA filter, with a mechanical filter, for dust, lint, hair, large pollen grains, etc., on the outermost layer, all taped to the outside of the box fan. The small fan pulling air out eventually was attached to flexible tubing, and the tubing attached to a vent that was ported to the outside air. Worked great, and it was like a sauna treatment to work in there, sweating out toxins by the cupful. I used to own three lab clean room overalls, that I could just machine wash each usage. I would soak one with sweat, saturated, with each body/job (I built some occasional custom furniture or art pieces for a friend's business), so I'd step out, remove the saturated suit, refill my old crappy sprayer, put on a new suit, shoot the next job. All of that stuff is now gone, it all became to worn out by the time we moved here and set up my temporary (nine years) shop.
I just love these videos where we actually get to see you do a finish. Keep it up!
Went looking for how to transfer a image to a guitar body for beginners and BAM there you are offering a whole step by step tut. Awesome work your doing. Wish i had the room to do projects like this. Till then i keep on watching you do your thing.
Great video. Unintended tip- I love the fixture for holding the body! Great idea.
Man I really appreciate your videos. It has made it so much easier for me get started since you've been willing to teach after doing all the leg work.
I have a 78 Harmony P Bass I'm refinishing and the body is plywood. It's mostly stripped and I have some Z-Poxy but I am thinking about ordering some total boat fairing epoxy first to smooth out the body and then when that's done I'll hit it with the z-poxy.
Was any sanding sealer used between the Solarez and Brite Tone? Was the alcohol used simple isopropyl alcohol? I have 200-proof ethanol.
I didn't use any. I use 91% isopropyl.
Chris, Thank you! I appreciate the excellent content and want to acknowledge the significant time and production work that goes into these videos. This video was particular helpful as I have been looking for an EV finish. I really love the ones I have seen on higher end guitars. Thanks again.
Very informative video - I build drums instead of guitars, but the finishing techniques are very similar. As a general rule, I feel obliged to give a thumbs down to anyone wearing a CSU cap, but I held back. Go Pokes!
I just subscribed to your channel I've been looking for a way to redo the top of my acoustic guitar it's a baby taylor mahogany. Do you have any tips on this. Thanks
Thank You.
Any reason why you didn’t use Crystalacs product for pore filling? (Or was this just for video demonstration)
Hi Chris, thanks for the many great videos but I have a question for you. Why not just use multiple coats of the resin instead of using 3 different products? Also, how much epoxy did you use for one coat? The reason why I‘m asking is that here in Europe only the 4 oz bottles are available through Amazon and I‘d like to have enough on hand.
Each coat of the Z-Poxy Finishing Resin makes the wood get darker and darker. So I use one coat for color (it looks a lot like boiled linseed oil) and I fill the grain with the Solarez ICBINL, which dries clear. Then I topcoat with the Brite Tone because it buffs out nicer. 4oz of the Z-Poxy will be enough for one guitar with a little left over.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the reply. I’ve been using Tru Oil on some past projects and had the same effect. Didn’t bother me though so I‘m going to give the epoxy a go.
I've been waiting for this video. Very interesting products indeed.
I was surprised you didn’t just use a couple coats of z poxy for pore filling. Do you not like it for this application?
I do like it, but there are many pore filling strategies.
Perfect timing on your upload of this video.
I was wondering if the Brite Tone could be used over a Solar Rez base. Any issues with adhesion after scuffing with 320? Thank you for sharing your experience and experiments in finishing with us all. :)
I scuffed to 400 grit and had no problem with adhesion so 320 will work fine. The reason I scuff to 400 is that it takes more coats of Brite Tone to cover the scratches left by coarser grits like 220 and 320.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you so much..i just tried solarez and could not keep it nib free..so level sanded with 400 grit and hand rubbed brite tone on..it looks great..i was concerned it might peel..so thanks again.
Can I apply Z Poxy over a dyed guitar? Specifically, I'm doing an edge burst with dye, and want to be sure the Z Poxy Poxy won't disturb the dye, and how it fades to the natural wood I'm leaving on the bulk of the guitar. Thanks for all your great videos. Your positive instruction has given me the courage to advance from exclusively hand finishing, to using an HVLP sprayer.
Yes you can. However, you should test on some scrap first to see if you like the result. Z-Poxy can darken the color and wood a bit so testing is a good idea. Also, you can apply some rattle can shellac to fix the color before spreading on the Z-Poxy.
thank you
Thanks for another great vid Chris!
Hey Chris, I really enjoy/appreciate your videos. I know this is 4 years old, but do I surmise from this finishing video that you finish all the parts before gluing in the neck? I ask because I'm in the Z-Poxy filler portion of a mahogany set neck Explorer style guitar and finishing the whole guitar at once will create a bit of a challenge for me. Thank you if you see this!
That is exactly what I did. I prefer to finish the neck and body before glueing unless I have painted the body and neck the same solid color or have a sculpted heel to body transition.
Re the "Tack Cloth" at 6:30 --- Doesn't this potentially leave gunk on the surface? I've even had trouble with 3M tack cloths.
Only if you’ve done a poor job of sanding the surface.
Sweet! 👍
Using crystalac on my current acoustic thanks to your recommendation. Probably one of the easiest finishes I've used and looks great. I did have a problem with the sanding sealer reactingvwithvthe tannins in my redwood top and turning it black. Used some oxilic acid to rectify the problem. Went back to shellac as a sealer first. Thanks for the videos
Try this: thecrystalacstore.com/collections/sealers-and-fillers/products/its-knot-shellac
@@chipsterb4946 it was the crystalac sanding sealer. He didn't use it in this video
Nice looking body Chris, like the carve top. What wood is this?? Mahogany??
Quartersawn African Mahogany.
Is there a reason you went with Z-Poxy instead of the Solarez Grain Sealer for the first coat? Or - is the color created by the Z-Poxy that unique?
Z-Poxy adds a subtle amber warmth to the color which Solarez doesn't.
Thank you for the feedback - much appreciated.
@@HighlineGuitars Wait...so the two products are very similar? If so, why bother with Solarez sealer when the Z-Poxy base coat should have sealed the wood.
I am refinishing my Fender Strat. I took the body to the bare wood. Painted with Black-Cherry-Peral automotive paint (several coats). Used a 3000grit to clean prior to using a few very light automotive clear coats. I want a deeper and harder finish to the guitar. Can I now go with the Z-Poxy to finalize for a hard finish and just buff it afterwards?
I would just build up more coats of the automotive clear, let it cure, level sand, and buff.
How is that neck stick you have built?
hi i've been using the solarez uv cure poly grain filler, and like the results, but their poly gloss resin topcoat has been kinda hit and miss... does the icbinl grain fill formula work as a fill and top gloss all in one?
also, since i've already had success with their poly fill resin, could i use the icbinl brush on formula as a top gloss coat over that?
thanks!
The ICBINL grain sealer is a bit softer and easier to sand than the ICBINL top coat product. However, on woods that have less severe grain and pores, you can use the top coat as a sealer/filler. I just did a test with the ICBINL over the polyester filler and it worked fine.
Chris, can you use the Z-poxy over water-based stain? Thanks.
Another great video. Do you have any experience with shooting Brite Tone directly over the Zpoxy? Some people sand to bare wood after using Zpoxy, some are leaving a thin film - and that's the way I prefer to do it. But should I be concerned about adhesion issues between Brite Tone and Zpoxy? Thanks!
@@pigjubby1 zpoxy is a grain filler, not a sanding sealer. In anyway - I asked this question about 7 months ago, and now I can tell: no adhesion issues when using britetone over zpoxy
@@amirgad4635 The question was for Chris but you answered it. Did you sand the Zpoxy before using Crystalac Britetone? Thank you.
@@pigjubby1 Some suggest that you should sand untill you only left with the zpoxy inside the pores, others are going for a thin film, and that's the way I did it. It's just too easy to leave tiny bits of zpoxy on top of the surface and then you might get a blotchy look.
I did two or three thin layers (don't remember exactly) using a spreader/squeegee trying to squeeze the zpoxy into the pores, not leaving a lot of unneeded excess on the surface. I basically stopped after all the pores got completely filled (again, two or three applications, preferably with about 6+ hours dry time between coats). After letting the last coat dry, I level sanded with 220, I believe, maybe 320 (it doesn't matter that much). Final results: all the pores got filled, and I left with a thin film on top of the surface. Again, without any problems of building layers of crystalac sanding sealer+clear coat on top of it
Do you think epoxy is the same as Solarez grain sealer?
No, it isn't. Solarez remains liquid until cured with UV exposure. Epoxy cures with catalytic action.
Can you use Z poxy just for grain filling and then spray paint color on top of it?
Yes, you can. However, each Z-Poxy coat takes 3+ hours to dry and 12 more to cure. Solarez ICBINL cures in minutes when exposed to bright sunlight.
@@HighlineGuitars Oh thank you so much for the quick response...iam usually using thin superglue for that purpose and its working well but i needed a less messy alternative....
Thank you for a very informative video on your guitar finishing process. Quick question... i was under the impression that the Solarez being a polyester based resin would not adhere to a epoxy based resin such as Z-Poxy. Is that not true? are you finding the polyester adheres to the epoxy? Thank you
The Solarez product I used in this video is not polyester.
@@HighlineGuitars Ah well that makes sense then. I'll check on there website and make sure I order the correct one. Thank you
Excellent
Some people recommend a coat of sealer, shellac or lacquer on the bare wood before applying the z-poxy. Thoughts?
I use a sealer if the wood is oily or I applied dye without a binder.
@@HighlineGuitars i'll be doing bare swamp ash with solid color over it. I have never been able to successfully get swamp ash fully grain filled.
Hey Chris, after you've sprayed your final coats of crystalac satin, do you still level sand and buff afterwards? Or what exactly is your process when using the crystalac satin brite-tone?
I level sand from about 600 grit to 3,000 grit and that’s it.
Chris...Thanks for your very informative videos. They have helped tremendously. I have a question about the Solarez grain filler. Could you add pigment to this like in your other techniques to enhance the grain? Also, I see that Solarez now has a filler/sealer combo. What are your thoughts on this?
You can't tint it because it won't cure properly. I love the filler/sealer. It's the best as long as the sun is shining.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the quick reply! That's what I figured but thought I would ask. In that case if you wanted to highlight the grain would you use one of your other techniques to do so and then use the Solarez filler sealer for the top coat after staining?
@@terryrose1665 Yes. I would use water or alcohol-based aniline dye first followed by the filler/sealer and the topcoat.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you very much for taking the time to answer questions, it's a great help!
Have you had problems with ICBINL not curing in the pores and later on it coming out and ruining the finish? I’ve read about people who have.
I never had that happen. It always cures bone dry for me.
i need your help. What is a good non-toxic (WB or epoxy is fine) finish i can brush on? I will try to refinish an explorer in white so ideally would be a pigmented epoxy or WB finish. Any experience with this?
All of the products mentioned in this video will work.
@@HighlineGuitars but i need white not clear. What white base coat is compatible?
@@geezberry8889 I use Createx 6001 White Sealer.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks my friend
Great video as usual, thank you. I have been experimenting a lot with Solarez since you first introduced it... I love it so far, but am trying to expand its use. I have successfully used ICBINL as atop clear coat over aerosol glitter paint and it is very, very successful and looks great. But have you had any success in adding any sort of pigment or dye to the ICBINL ? If so, what kind. Also have you tried to use the ICBINL over colored Notro after it has cured ? Thanks
I have not tried tinting ICBINL because I fear it will cause problems with the UV cure. Since I don't use nitro anymore, I don't know if there would be any compatibility issues.
@@HighlineGuitars apparently you can, according to their website, but when I ask them what type (i.e. water based, acrylic etc) they do not answer. To your point, It does say that the closer to "RED" pigment you use, to use less so it will cure faster and they also suggest using a small biit of MEKP. Well, I will attempt it and let you know.
@@tommybyrne8092 Where on the Solarez website did you see it can be tinted?
Are you spraying the Solarez ICBINL over the color coat? I’d be very interested to know more about your process.
@@HighlineGuitars I asked the owner.
How is the finish doing after these last four years? Thanks, man!
I don't know. I sold the guitar 4 years ago.
How many coats of Brite Tone did you ultimately use?
Chris, would you recommend any of the three products for lacquering a maple fretboard? Thanks.
All of them. However, since you don't need to fill the grain on a Maple fretboard, I'd go with the Z-Poxy to enhance the grain and color and either the Solarez or Crystalac for the topcoat. You don't really need both.
Was I mistaken in thinking that solarez was not made to go on top of epoxy or was that just the polyester solarez?
I don't know about that. I've used both over epoxy without issue.
@@HighlineGuitars when I visited Solarez I asked that question and he said no to polyester on top of epoxy and showed me some surfboards as to what happens later on. He reccomended using vinyl ester and using polyester UV ear on top. Of course you dont surf on a guitar, ha. Ill find out if the "lacquer" can be used over epoxy. Enjoy your painting how to's. As a forty year painter, you are the only one that really has it down
Hi bought some z poxy the 30 min one ..Pacer Zap PT-39 Z-POXY 30 Minute Epoxy Resin 8oz Pack PT39 not the finishing one and wanted follow what you had done but waiting see what you say before I use it incase its the wrong one especially as I'm putting it on an acrylic painted guitar ? Thankyou
I've never used the 30 minute formula so I can't comment on it.
@@HighlineGuitars wondering if it's different than the finishing one ?
@@18psutton 🤷♂️
What do you think is the best thing to thin the solarez so it levels better?
You can't thin Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer. Apply it and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. It will be as level as it can get. Be careful on vertical surfaces as it can sag if it sits for too long. It's a good idea to keep turning it every couple of minutes like it's on a rotisserie.
What kind of bit did you use to recess your pots ? I thought of using a spade bit until I realized it would widen the shaft hole
1/4” diameter 2-flute spiral up cut bit.
If you were going to take your finish to a high gloss on this guitar, would you still use crystalalac as the top coat or would you just stop at Solarez and finish with the solarez as your top coat? Why would you use the Solarez I can't believe it is not lacquer as opposed to the Solarez polyester resin. I have seen you use both. Apparently the polyeseter resin is more scratch resistant but why the I can't believe it's not lacquer over the polyester resin?
Good question. The polyester resin is hard to work with as it is very temperature sensitive. ICBINL is easier to work with and sands much easier than the polyester. That said, Crystalac Brite Tone yields a better high gloss shine than ICBINL.
@@HighlineGuitars Have you notice any adhesion problems using and water based finish over the ICBINL?
@@user-ch9jo8mi7m no.
Is it possible to use zpoxy on a dyed fretboard? Or is that a dumb idea
If you dye a fretboard, you have to clear coat it with something to protect the dye. Z-Poxy would work, but I would test on scrap first to make sure.
Great thanks so much
Btw great content, learning alot from your videos!! Thank you for posting them!!!
Great video.
Oh, had to do it; FIRST.
What are your thoughts about using Solarez on acoustic guitars? I emailed Solarez and never heard back from them.
Chris, Are you still using any of these products? (Zpoxy, ICBINL, Brite Tone)
Yes, all of them and more.
I want to do this exact method on a build for the quickness, and the fact I have a spalted maple top, it would seem the best route to stabilize the top with the zpoxy. I want to do a darker honey burst, My one question is the crystalac Top coat tintable with the craftnique pigments?
Yes, it is.
So I won’t need to buy the Craftnique Grande Finale along with the high solids poly top coat your using here? Thanks for the reply. Tried looking for you in amateur luthier on FB couldn’t find you! Haha
@@sambracken3325 Use Brite Tone. It’s more durable. I’m not on FB.
Awesome.. one more question I promise! Can I do a wipe on burst with this method over the zpoxy or will spraying be the best way to go?
@@sambracken3325 if you can spray, spray. Wiped on always looks wiped on.
What kind of wood was that
Rift sawn Mahogany.
Could you just sand the second material up to say a 1000 grit paper to achieve a satin sheen
Yes, but the sheen won’t last because anything that rubs against it will polish that spot to a higher gloss shine.
Can you use your LVLP gun with Brite Tone?
No. The needle is too small.
In Italy, they are practically unavailable products
Look at water-based 2k polyurethane. Italy is the leading supplier. Look for Renner an Milesi.
34th.
Awesome content, as always, but please, don't add background music.
Ive never had good luck mixing products so I stay far away from it