Bachmann Spectrum Russian Decapod 2-10-0 January Locomotive of the Month and history behind it!
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- You've seen it time and time again doing the grunt work on my layout and pulling speedy freights. I'm glad to finally share with you the story behind January's locomotive of the month, 2-10-0 Russian decapod number 1110. I answer a few questions, like navigating 18° radius, and shorting out issues. There is some history on the REAL 1110 and photo's of it at work. So please hop on and enjoy the ride!
I purchased this locomotive used "Like New" from Trainz:
www.trainz.com/
A lot of the information for this video came from the site below:
www.steamlocom...
Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad book I referenced was written by Deane Mellander. The photos I used from this book were taken by W.R. Hicks and W.M. Price.
Very nice layout
There’s something about big locomotives like the decapod that makes its so fun watching it pull trains!
That’s a interesting story about these Russian 2-10-0 . I have watched several of your videos and I’m surprised I haven’t seen a string of Tyco Western Maryland flatcars ? They came with either 3 tractors, or 3 pieces of culvert pipe . Do you have any ?
I don’t know if you fixed this already but, if you find a place in your locomotive to put in some weights, it will pull more. Like on a real steam locomotive, if you have more weight on drivers, you have more adhesion.
The Western Maryland was one of very few railroads to find success with decapods. They put their Russian I-1s to great use and would order more from Baldwin. The later I-2s with their larger size and increased performance lasted until the end of steam. Most railroads found decapods to be poorly balanced and dangerous to run at higher speeds. However WMs newer batch had no such problems and were well liked by the crews that ran them.
I have a Bachmann decapod that I painted up as my railway’s engine number 7. I had that same problem with it shorting out when I first got it. I’ve found that simply putting electrical tape over the contacts does the job just fine. I’ve only had mine for a month, and it runs very good for a $110 secondhand model, even putting some of my new-bought engines to shame. I use BL&G 7 as a banking engine, simulating the last steam banker on the BL&G Sawtooth Pass incline.
After I posted this video, I started having shorting problems again. The repair you described is exactly what I did! Worked great, and I did a video on that as well. Thank you for commenting and sharing #7's story!
@@themillrunandwesternmaryland11 it was my pleasure. I’ll post some videos of it in action later this week. I’ve recently had problems with the decals peeling off, so I’ve ordered new decals. They just arrived before I commented. I’ll put them on tonight when I have time to.
I’m actually getting a second 2-10-0 to go with locomotive number 7. The second 2-10-0 will carry the number 8, and will be used as a backup for engine number 7. I’ve already bought the locomotive, and it will be arriving on June 3rd.
😍😍😍😍
They should rename the company to "BOTCH-MANN"! Some are well made & accurate, well others are total crap! I like the 2-8-0's (I have 5 of them) in HO, several 2-8-4's, and the C&O H4 Mallet. All of those run well! Although a lot of details are left off, and have to be added.
I also own 1 B&O GP7, and 1 C&O GP9 (custom painted & detailed). The biggest problem with those is the radiator & dynamic brake fans.
I drilled them out with a step drill, and replaced them with Cannon see through fans. Also added diamond tread styrene to the walkways, and other details! The Geeps run & pull as good as LL Proto diesels, and No gear problems so far.
Joe
You actually mean 18 inch and 15 inch radius curves, right?
Yeah
This locomotive has a very rich history in Russia
Indeed. The YE class decapods have quite the history, especially in Russia and the states. I know that a small handful of those engines are still around in the United States, and many more in Russia and China, as well as many Eastern European countries.
Would you buy it used for $125?
I'm considering asking for less like $99
Non dcc like mine are usually in the $175-$200 range, last I checked. If it's in good running condition, $100-$125 is pretty good.