Napo, La sfinge 5c | LEAD Rope SOLO Free Climbing | Italy, Karst
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- Опубліковано 29 жов 2024
- 2021/06/25, Italy, Trieste, Napoleonica, sector "La Cuenca" - La sfinge 5c (~5.10a) - Sport, 12 m
Lead rope solo free climbing repetition (onsighted 2019/10/31)
Before asking questions, please read my lead rope solo manual here:
My channel → About → My lead rope solo manual
Keep in mind that I don't necessarily always respect the things that I've written in the manual, depending on the particular pitch, the risk I want to take, things I'm testing, etc.
System:
Modded Wild Country Revo, Beal Stinger III 9.4 mm Unicore Dry Cover, DMM Ceros.
Petzl Oxan Triact-Lock ANSI Z359.12 for the main anchor and the second bolt, 8 mm maillon for the backup anchor (knot against maillon).
True max resolution for the first person view parts is 1080p.
Tags: rope solo, rope solo lead, lead solo, self-belaying, self belay, climbing alone, Karst, Karst edge, Karst coast, Karst Plateau, Karst region, Friuli Venezia Giulia, FVG, Trieste, Gorizia, Udine, limestone, crag, single pitch, sport route, arrampicata, arrampicata libera, autosicura, autoassicurazione, autosicura da primo, solitaria,
Carso, Friuli, calcare, falesia, monotiro, via sportiva, Full HD, FHD, 1080p, 60 FPS, 60fps, 60p
Hey Andrea, It's good to see you climbing again after the accident. I see you mentally strong, climbing without back up knots 😬. I also had a 5 metres fall recently, fortunately nothing broke, and I know it's hard. Take care man 🙋🏻♂️
Why do people never read the video descriptions; videos are always delayed.
Anyway, I'll be back climbing in one month and a half circa, the bone is healing quite fast, so I'm positive.
Before the mountain accident I ended up trusting the Revo a lot. Still, when I feel like it, depending on the route, I tie one single knot, see my 6b+ at the same crag ( ua-cam.com/video/E4VMtxZKD5g/v-deo.html ): I tie it such that when I'm near the anchor, if I fall I would hit the knot, while I'm not covered in the first part of the route: with the rationale that:
1) I trust the Revo
2) if shit happens it's better for it to happen in the first part of the route when you're not so far from the ground yet.
3) when I'm very high on the route the knot on the spare rope will be at such position that it will catch me in the very unlikely case that the Revo fails.
By the way, how did the fall happen? I'm always trying to learn from accidents.
I was rappelling a canyon with my nephew, which is learning, after climbing.
Error 1 : I let him to recover the rope after one rappel without supervision. He forgot to untie the stopper knot.
Error 2: After several hard pulls without succes, I decided to climb up the rappel, because we needed the rope to continue climbing down.
Error 3: After 5 meters I found myself in the harder part of the climb, attached to the rope without using it. I thought it would be Ok use the rope in the crux, only one step, the rest part was gonna be easier. But the knot slip through the anchor in that precise moment (I thought it would be impossible) and I fell
Bad decisions and bad luck I guess
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing if you know people do not always read the video descriptions, you should write details in your video opener to save your frustration :)
No. I won't support laziness! (lol)
Ehilà!
Come va il recupero?
Io oggi mi sono levato l'ultimo tubo che avevo in corpo. Sono carico a pallettoni ... Immagino anche tu ...
Prima o poi si torna sempre a scalare 😉
Un carissimo saluto
Ah, son contento.
Io è lunga... oggi ero sul Peralba, ho fatto la normale Giovanni Paolo II che ha anche dei tratti di banale arrampicata, ma arrampicare sul serio chissà quando. Alla fine sono passati appena due mesi, quindi minimo ancora altri due, che guarisca bene l'osso. Intanto faccio camminate.
45 giorni ancora, poi riprendo.
Hai mai provato il cinch? Io lo usavo anni fa per scalare in solitaria con imbrago ventrale e mi son sempre trovato bene... oggi dicono non sia più sicuro ma molti li usano ancora in falesia
Mai provato direttamente.
Scorre bene ma blocca in base all'orientamento della corda (come entra ed esce dal dispositivo) invece che per l'attrito, e quindi in certi casi non blocca, come ad esempio se cadi per dietro, ma non solo; in questo senso sono più sicuri i dispositivi che lavorano come il GriGri; vedi "Other belay devices/systems" sul manuale.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing una volta il.cinch andava per la maggiore, adesso son passato al grigri
Come si scala con il REVO ?
app.box.com/s/xe19rd4mymgu63vqaq1owf1doh2na92g
GRAZIE !!!! 😀 Domani pomeriggio lo provo in falesia spero.@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing