Hey Rune :) Disclaimer - I'm not an expert! I'm just brainstorming here. If you look at the rear of the valve where the firing pin strikes it, the edges of the valve stem are ground flat on either side so that CO2 blows backwards as well as forwards. The firing pin is set in a piston, so that whole assembly is pushed backwards to drive the hammer block back and recock the gun when the valve is opened. In fact if you take the magazine out and remove the rubber seal over the valve, if you hold it up you can see light all the way through around the valve. So quite a lot of the extra CO2 your grinding out produced is probably being lost in blowback, and the firing pin is being moved backwards harder and faster, and probaby counteracting the extra gas as the valve is open for a shorter time. Maybe a longer firing pin would help. The firing pins are quite simple, someone with a modellers lathe could turn a new one easily. Another thing I thought for the same effect was to shim the end of the valve stem where the firing pin hits by glueing a tiny disk of metal onto it so that the valve is open for longer, but I haven't tried it yet as I'm scared of breaking my firing pin. You could make an experimental softer shim from epoxy putty maybe, to see if it works. You could remove the valve and replace it with modelling clay to see how deep the firing pin goes when fired, and then compare to how far in the valve can be pushed in to see if the valve is being fully opened as far as it can possibly go, then make the new or shimmed firing pin fractionally shorter to avoid damage. Reducing the blowback would be tricky, but you might be able to block the gaps around the valve stem somewhat with epoxy putty or solder, It's an engineering task well beyond my abilities though, as you'd still need enough blowback to cycle the slide. IMO, a longer (or shimmed) firing pin is possibly the only way to tune this pistol with the stock barrel. However, there is also this if you can find a barrel extension that fits it - it's a silencer adaptor. They sell the silencers to fit, but they are vented so you'd have to dissasemble and block the holes with a liner ;): www.ram-shop24.de/de/qblock-adapter-fuer-ppq-m2-t4e-cal-0-43.html
Hi my friend. I have had the same ideas. I have bought epoxy putty I think I will block one side of the valve stem. If it will hold is another question. The firing pin beeing longer sounds like a good idea. I dont have a lathe so I doubt I can make one. But it sounds like like it might work. Btw the link dont work. Stay tuned for more videos. Thanks for the tips my friend 😃
Rune it looks like you got lots of material out of the valve. My pile didn’t look that big. I am surprised it didnt do better. Maybe that mesh co2 screen is the issue?
Yes I guess so. I will open it up and remove it. Think I will grind the upper part with the dermmel type tool also. Iam not so good with drills but I can use a dremmel. Stay tuned for more videos 😃
This is more the size and style I like……enjoyed todays videos Rune😀
Thank you Lance 😃
Hey Rune :) Disclaimer - I'm not an expert! I'm just brainstorming here. If you look at the rear of the valve where the firing pin strikes it, the edges of the valve stem are ground flat on either side so that CO2 blows backwards as well as forwards. The firing pin is set in a piston, so that whole assembly is pushed backwards to drive the hammer block back and recock the gun when the valve is opened. In fact if you take the magazine out and remove the rubber seal over the valve, if you hold it up you can see light all the way through around the valve. So quite a lot of the extra CO2 your grinding out produced is probably being lost in blowback, and the firing pin is being moved backwards harder and faster, and probaby counteracting the extra gas as the valve is open for a shorter time. Maybe a longer firing pin would help. The firing pins are quite simple, someone with a modellers lathe could turn a new one easily. Another thing I thought for the same effect was to shim the end of the valve stem where the firing pin hits by glueing a tiny disk of metal onto it so that the valve is open for longer, but I haven't tried it yet as I'm scared of breaking my firing pin. You could make an experimental softer shim from epoxy putty maybe, to see if it works. You could remove the valve and replace it with modelling clay to see how deep the firing pin goes when fired, and then compare to how far in the valve can be pushed in to see if the valve is being fully opened as far as it can possibly go, then make the new or shimmed firing pin fractionally shorter to avoid damage. Reducing the blowback would be tricky, but you might be able to block the gaps around the valve stem somewhat with epoxy putty or solder, It's an engineering task well beyond my abilities though, as you'd still need enough blowback to cycle the slide. IMO, a longer (or shimmed) firing pin is possibly the only way to tune this pistol with the stock barrel. However, there is also this if you can find a barrel extension that fits it - it's a silencer adaptor. They sell the silencers to fit, but they are vented so you'd have to dissasemble and block the holes with a liner ;): www.ram-shop24.de/de/qblock-adapter-fuer-ppq-m2-t4e-cal-0-43.html
Hi my friend. I have had the same ideas. I have bought epoxy putty I think I will block one side of the valve stem. If it will hold is another question. The firing pin beeing longer sounds like a good idea. I dont have a lathe so I doubt I can make one. But it sounds like like it might work. Btw the link dont work. Stay tuned for more videos. Thanks for the tips my friend 😃
I love the wood handled hex key! Nice work Craig!
Thank you
Thanks. Craig makes exelent work😃
Thank you for the informative video, my friend.
Thanks my friend. Iam glad you like the video 😃
Very informative,Thank you!👍🏻🇺🇸
Thank you my friend. Iam glad you like the video 😃
You had a lot of elements working against you. I would try again with a warmed co2.
Yes. I will try again. Make sure the room is warmer and maybe start with another type of ball🤔
Nice!
Thanks
Rune it looks like you got lots of material out of the valve. My pile didn’t look that big. I am surprised it didnt do better. Maybe that mesh co2 screen is the issue?
Yes I guess so. I will open it up and remove it. Think I will grind the upper part with the dermmel type tool also. Iam not so good with drills but I can use a dremmel. Stay tuned for more videos 😃
Try the Powerballs (the 🔵 ones) with a fresh CO2. You'll be surprised
Ok. I will try them next time☺👍
Good try anyway 🇨🇾❤️👍🏻
Thanks my friend. I might have to try and drill the valve, but its a risk ruining it.
@@runerebel8441 i think no worth it because if you get more power will be very little i think 🤔
@@noobt4eguns I think so too. Plus if I ruin the magazine I must buy a new one, and they are very expencive here...
@@runerebel8441 better don't do it i think
@@noobt4eguns I wont.