Joining angle iron at 90 degrees using 3 easy joint methods - cope & mitre. Welding preparation
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- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- Detailing Metal workshop and site fabrication welding.
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Cope mitre joint
I'm glad you can't hear me yelling on #2 to just cut the dam thing !!!
Thanks for the video !!
Method 2 worked a treat for me. Easy to cut it out. Easy to weld it up and turned out nice and square. No more 45 degree mitre cuts for me!
@gregwilson9035
Thanks Greg
Pleased you took from the video.
All the best.
Tired to do method #1 by myself but couldn't figure it out. Thanks to the vid now I know.
Great stuff. I always cope, never 45. Thanks for an awesome video!
Thanks for watching Tom. 👍
Thanks! #2 and #3 look less problematic for sure.
Полезное видео, спасибо!👍👍👍👍👍
Εισαι ο καλυτερος.Μπραβο σου.
ANOTHER WINNING FABRICATION VIDEO .......Thank you T M F G.......
excelente video. Saludos
This is awesome, thanks a million
Thanks for watching 👍
Better than perfect, exelent coping samples
Thank you for watching Jorge. 👍
The 45 is more pleasing to the eye for exposed joints but has 80% of the strength that the inside & outside coping joints have due to a shorter weld bead. Weld beads are usually stonger than the parent metal.
this. people forget the metal used for welding is very pure and has incredible strength. More weld is a better for strength.
❤ very good
Nice work brother man
Thank you Justin
Nice
good work, one day i will practice that with scrap material i have waiting on me. thanks!
Thank you for watching Fernando 👍
I do 45 cuts way differently. Coping is what I do when I’m joining regular mill scale covered angle iron. . But when I want it to look nice like if I’m tiging some stainless for a frame. I always go with 45
Thanks for your comments and watching Steve. 👍
nice information =)
Thanks for watching 👍
ahhh! beginner hobbyist here building a shelf that wishes he saw this a few days ago. trying to do 45s with a chop saw I've learned is a crap shoot.
I don't have a band saw. angle grinder doing either of the copes would've been better.
I'll do better next time. thanks to you
And Thanks to you for watching Camilo.
Instead of the Cope or mitres anther option would have been a square cut but to have sat the angle inside each other, like you see commonly on a gallows bracket.
Plenty of options...
Good luck with your project .
@@TheMetalFabGuy I thought of that initially but mitre looks pretty and it's for a girlfriend's garage.
getting it done? I can do that. add some finesse? uhhhh
Que giz é esse que tu usa?
Yes
cool !!
Thanks for watching 👍
Thank you
Thank you .
Dear Metal Fab Guy: how do you keep you fingers and hands so clean?.....I always look like I just changed an engine and transmission in a WWII German Tiger Tank!!!! While at the Russian front in the Mud and Blood of the Spring Offensive......Cheers, Paul
😄😄
As you say…Hard to keep anything
Clean in this game. I normally film the videos at the beginning of the day, which I guess accounts for the clean 🤚.
Cheers Paul.
Is any one of them structurally stronger than the other one? Which one is your preferred method if not specified by the drawing?
Thanks for watching Bob. Unsure with regard to the structural strength but would imagine all 3 would be more than adequate in the smaller range of material ie 2”’as per video.
Personally I Would usually go for mitred option on framework.
Though both methods 2&3 allow for simple square cuts on 2 sides of a frame opposed to a mitred joint being required on every end.
Method 3 as the video briefly shows, can also be used as an option for a mid bar on a frame.
(Where I slid it into position)
@@TheMetalFabGuy thanks so much for your explanation.
With consideration, I’d suggest that the mitred joint is the weaker of the 3. More joint to weld with the other 2 and the mitred joint has only the one axis of weld. But only my suggestion and I’m sure there’s a calculation out there somewhere to prove that.
The first one
Pa nagdrill ng bakal sir.alin ang maganda lagyan ng tubig o hindi na?
So satisfying watching your videos. How long you been fabricating?
Hi Dalton.
Thank you for watching.
25+years metal bashing
@@TheMetalFabGuy UK or Australia? Canada?
👍🏻
Thanks for watching 👍
#3❤
I could use some help. Even with a square guide I'm never getting perfect 90 squares using 45 cuts on aluminum... I figure it can't be heat, but I'm losing my mind trying (and failing) to get square corners here. Any advice? Are 45s too hard for the layman fabricator?
Once you’ve welded the 45°s or before ?
Sounds silly but make sure your square is actually square to begin with.
So say you are trying to make it out of a single piece to make a shelf, couldn't you cut two opposing 45s, then cut a relief in the steel and bend the angle to make a right angle?
Sure can. Good option for a 90 👍
Yes, by far the easiest option if you have a long piece, just make sure you leave an extra mm to be filed away if necessary for a perfect fit.
@@TheMetalFabGuy can be used for other degrees, just divide the angle you need by two and then trace each one.
Maybe it introduces more ways to mess it up, but couldn't you cut a 90° notch out of 1 piece, on one side, then bend it to make 2 45° like the first method? Less cutting, less welding, maybe a little hammering.
For the other methods, i was thinking if instead of removing the notch, you ground it down (thickness) and the other piece and have them overlap, then weld? You'd have a buldge but it might be stronger? Idk, new to all this, just spitballin
You could do that but be sure to bend well because the curve where it was bent adds a few millimeters and can easily mess up the 90 degrees. I had to resort to just using the first method in this video.
Hi, what machine are you using to cut the steel?
Bandsaw for the cut to size. Angle grinder to notch.
Most saw machines I run cut 45 angles without the extra effort. Just type 45 and go… but honestly I’ve never saw someone cut with that little of coolant.
Thanks for watching Eric 👍
“Type 45”. That’s some saw you have.
Look forward to your video.
Sometimes I cut without any coolant 🤫
@@TheMetalFabGuy hydmech or hem saw are what I usually run. I do like the video. I saw a lot of steel with angles,channels,flats, and I beams that are fabricated by companies who have us saw there kits. 55-100 pcs.
Good work
Cheers Paulo.
Thanks for watching
Saved humanity from not knowing how to use hands and toilet paper
I always do a 45 for an outside corner, only cope for the inside joint
Thanks for watching 👍
how to smooth the inner part
That is always difficult because an angle grinder with a flap sanding disk cannot reach all the way into a miter cut. The two coped 90s are easier to smooth. There are narrow hand-held belt sanders for close quarter sanding in tight spaces, but they are a specialized tool.
Now part 2, I do not do !! Can’t stand cutting with grinders. Just to risky
What thickness is the material
5mm
1st one is beautiful and better
I do have easy way in round;
Tan{90}=8×50=16mm.
method 2 and 3 are the same
Take another look Faraidun.
Thanks for watching
I agree. They are very similar. The only difference is what side is the coped piece cut.
I wish I could message you directly. . Life's not perfect.
Instagram Sammy
Good video, nice techniques, but what's with the long pauses between the cuts? Had to skip through more than half of the video.
Thanks for watching Stephan.
Mate I’m a welder fabricator with a camera phone. But I take onboard your comments for future videos.
For the record the videos are chopped a lot more from the original cut. So I did at least save you from some skipping. 😂😂
All the best .
There’s a fourth way
Thanks for watching Joseph.
I think there may be a couple more at least.
Cope is better stronger
သိတဂူဆရါောာ်တရါးောွ်၎င်းျါး
Are you mute ?
What would you like to talk about @blackn5485 ?
He is skilled
45s are the best