Very informative video. I'm in the middle of making a kayak mold I'm wondering what type of primer to use? I'm going to be using polyester resin and fiberglass for the kayak
From my experiences in woodworking I can tell you that a company called Holdfast makes some great pumps and vacuum bags that come with a great mesh. All you have to do is place the part into the bag of the size you need and turn on the vacuum.
It's good to know why you did a negative/positive 45. More layers would be 0/90/45+/45- . This is to cause it to work against itself to help hold the shape during the cure process.
Thanks, I learned a great deal from this. I'm scratch building a 1/100 scale model submarine. I own a vacuum pump and think I can put it to good use! Still deciding whether to build the sail (conning tower) separately. its (going to be) a Soviet Alfa class sub so it might release ok from the mould?
Use both...wax several coats first, then release second...always use both...I prefer using a gelcoat after the release agent, gives a great finish on your fiber...
texaswildcat2000 exactly, Use PVA and gelcoat after waxing for the first one or two of products when using a new mold, if the mold releases ok, then it is ready to use withoud PVA. When doing resin infusion it is highly recommended to use gelcoat andPVA when using new molds... By the way, in this film they use a polyester mold, allways !!!!!!! Postcure a polyester mold before using vacuum cure or resin infusion. The vacuum can suck out excess styrenen which is still in the polyester, this outcoming styrene dissolves your wax and your product will be stuck into the mold.. in my 22 years experience in composites i’ve seen this many times (yess it happened to me also :) )
juan perez postcuring a mold means you give the mold a heat cycle, This is geanerally done to improve crosslinking of the matrix (mixed resin) and improving the TG (glass transition temp) in case of a polyester mold it is also done to make sure all of the excess styrene evaporates, if you don’t do this there is a big change the excess styrene dissolve the mold release when vacuum is applied, especially when temperature Increases (exothermic peak) at cure
Cool I'm thinking about making an ultralight flying wing like the mitchell a-10 maybe something better more efficient with a closed cockpit. Have to build a really big CNC first I guess.. still not sure.. but I've seen people glass over foam to make parts too.. and then gel coat and wax.
Vacuum breach unit/valve made specifically for vacuum bagging. You reuse them [unless you suck up resin in to it, so run a strip of breather away from the part where resin is]. I've seen people just use a tube that's tacky-taped in to a corner with a wad of breather cloth.
Really really good video, is there a video somewhere of how you glue the two halves that i might have missed or a link to a similar process that is as well explained as this video
This an excellent demonstration. However why is he calling a perforated release film a bleeder cloth at 14:35? That is clearly a release film. And in place of bleeder cloth he is actually using some sort of towels.
students abuse them, I sharpen them, then I buy more, students abuse them, I sharpen them, that I buy more, students abuse them, I sharpen them, I buy more… I think you see where I'm going with this.
Adventure Aircraft I went to a vocational school, so unfortunately I know what you're talking about. Scissors are cheap though, make them buy their own. People tend to not respect tools until they have to buy them.
back when i worked at vestas Blades. where we made 55 - 62 Meters wings. we where using about 1500 sissors every 6 month. this is the sissor 57 USD a pop vestaindustry.com/source/products/Household%20Scissor/Tailor%20Scissors%20Stainless%20Steel%20Size%2011cm.jpg
This is an excellent video of showing how not to do it. Way too much resin, where is your squeegee, the perforated plastic over the peel-ply just gets in the way of the excess resin transferring to the bleeder ply, and so much resin he lost all local vacuum where it soaked through to the vacuum bag, which is a big problem. If you don't have air space to pull a vacuum between the bag and part there is NO PRESSURE on the part, so no vacuum. Kudos he at least did the video, but it's only good for entertainment.
While this is very painful to watch, I think some of your observations are slightly off the mark. The perforated film is used to limit bleed and control resin flow. If you allow the resin to bleed entirely to your breather, you will undoubtedly create a dry and porosity laden part. You can also see that he has vacuum path between the perforations (for most of the cure), and therefore has good vacuum on the part. If the breather is saturated, you will shut off your vacuum flow and lose the pressure you need. Surprisingly, his part seemed to be pretty good on the mold surface, but probably resin rich still. Why he added resin to the peel ply I'll never know.
It actually scales quite nicely. Full size yachts and airplanes are made with these materials daily. They might use different methods, but the results are similar. It actually saves on labor as you can build your structure into the parts, or simply make a one piece part to eliminate many pieces.
Does anyone know about the usage of gloves. And never use you bare fingers around carbon fiber the way he showed us. Those little fibers go very deep into your skin, then your off to see your doctor. As I remove the parts from a mold, use a tool like a tongue depressor or very thin hard plastic. Never fingers. And if you knew how to use a squeegee, you would have a better part, lighter. When you have hard corners that the bag doesn't touch, your bag was too tight of a fit over your part. In that case you bring your vacuum up to around 3lbs, then push the bag into your hard edges, even use a tool. Then bring up the vacuum to full pressure. I have Forty years of Composites usage. You guys need a little more knowledge, then you can brag a little.
As painful as this is to watch, some of your advice is off the mark. In my near 40 years of composite manufacturing, I have never been to a doctor for touching raw carbon fiber. Furthermore, I have never known a single individual to do so either. Now, I have had my share of cuts and a few slivers while handling raw edges of parts, but I'll take the blame for those and some simple tweezers will get those slivers out. The bag he is using is called Stretchlon. It elongates 500%, so your comment of tight bag are unfounded. That doesn't mean that his breather materials aren't bridged, but he seemed to do good job of getting those in place before the bag, so it worked out well. You'll also note that his part looked quite nice on the mold side, but may have been a bit resin rich. AS you can see, there's more than one way to skin a cat. You may want to take some of your own advice and get "a little more knowledge" before bragging about your 40 years.
i highly reccomend removing this video !!! this is not the correct way to produce aviation parts. it starts when they talk about an epoxypump, every certified aviation composite employee (company) know a pump cannot guarantee a correct mix ratio, simply because it is not 100% failproof!! no gloves, safety glases no de-airing of the fabrics, dabbing with a brush makes air bubbles, and vacuum expands them When i saw him placing the airtech connector in the middle of the part..... heheheh hobbyist
great demo, really appreciate the use of economically sourced membranes rather than propitiatory products, very helpful thank you.
Very informative video. I'm in the middle of making a kayak mold I'm wondering what type of primer to use? I'm going to be using polyester resin and fiberglass for the kayak
From my experiences in woodworking I can tell you that a company called Holdfast makes some great pumps and vacuum bags that come with a great mesh. All you have to do is place the part into the bag of the size you need and turn on the vacuum.
It's good to know why you did a negative/positive 45. More layers would be 0/90/45+/45- . This is to cause it to work against itself to help hold the shape during the cure process.
Thanks, I learned a great deal from this. I'm scratch building a 1/100 scale model submarine. I own a vacuum pump and think I can put it to good use! Still deciding whether to build the sail (conning tower) separately. its (going to be) a Soviet Alfa class sub so it might release ok from the mould?
Very nice and proper demonstrated presentation. Thank a lot..
Thank you for this. I've seen the use of PVA for mold release. Is wax better or pva? What is your preference? Thanks
Use both...wax several coats first, then release second...always use both...I prefer using a gelcoat after the release agent, gives a great finish on your fiber...
texaswildcat2000 exactly,
Use PVA and gelcoat after waxing for the first one or two of products when using a new mold, if the mold releases ok, then it is ready to use withoud PVA.
When doing resin infusion it is highly recommended to use gelcoat andPVA when using new molds...
By the way, in this film they use a polyester mold, allways !!!!!!! Postcure a polyester mold before using vacuum cure or resin infusion.
The vacuum can suck out excess styrenen which is still in the polyester, this outcoming styrene dissolves your wax and your product will be stuck into the mold.. in my 22 years experience in composites i’ve seen this many times (yess it happened to me also :) )
Tks for the detail... but... what is "POSTCURE" ?
place it on a oven? how long?
juan perez postcuring a mold means you give the mold a heat cycle,
This is geanerally done to improve crosslinking of the matrix (mixed resin) and improving the TG (glass transition temp)
in case of a polyester mold it is also done to make sure all of the excess styrene evaporates, if you don’t do this there is a big change the excess styrene dissolve the mold release when vacuum is applied, especially when temperature Increases (exothermic peak) at cure
Tks for answering... I apprecitate... any general guides? at what temp? how long?
I really enjoyed the video and class thank you
Working with Epoxy, without gloves? Sure hope they have not gotten Epoxy Sensitivity issues.
I take it you dont know Brian.
@@flat_stickproductions209 No, I don't know Brian, but what does he have to do with not wearing gloves?
It’s gonna cause cancer🤦🏻♂️ crazy to work with Resin without gloves
Thanks for the detail demonstration
tKS!
interesting and well explained... a lot of technical info, tips & tricks (like to add a layer of fiberglass)
Cool I'm thinking about making an ultralight flying wing like the mitchell a-10 maybe something better more efficient with a closed cockpit. Have to build a really big CNC first I guess.. still not sure.. but I've seen people glass over foam to make parts too.. and then gel coat and wax.
What valve do you place inside the bag? How reusable is it?
Vacuum breach unit/valve made specifically for vacuum bagging. You reuse them [unless you suck up resin in to it, so run a strip of breather away from the part where resin is]. I've seen people just use a tube that's tacky-taped in to a corner with a wad of breather cloth.
Really really good video, is there a video somewhere of how you glue the two halves that i might have missed or a link to a similar process that is as well explained as this video
This an excellent demonstration. However why is he calling a perforated release film a bleeder cloth at 14:35? That is clearly a release film. And in place of bleeder cloth he is actually using some sort of towels.
Great video. What's with the stockpile of rusty old scissors @ 23:30?
students abuse them, I sharpen them, then I buy more, students abuse them, I sharpen them, that I buy more, students abuse them, I sharpen them, I buy more… I think you see where I'm going with this.
Adventure Aircraft
I went to a vocational school, so unfortunately I know what you're talking about. Scissors are cheap though, make them buy their own. People tend to not respect tools until they have to buy them.
Believe me, we've had that discussion.
back when i worked at vestas Blades. where we made 55 - 62 Meters wings. we where using about 1500 sissors every 6 month. this is the sissor 57 USD a pop vestaindustry.com/source/products/Household%20Scissor/Tailor%20Scissors%20Stainless%20Steel%20Size%2011cm.jpg
Good video, but the audio sounds like it was recorded on a windy english hillside.
Great work!😺
coconut tree form carbon
first step is the cell form vacuum. the tree guides technology.
Why do you use carbon fiber to make the mold and not fiber to make the mold?
Good one! Now, I know how I'm going to build that new three-camera pod for the belly of my Sting.
more would be great. thanks for the video
Thanks for the great video......
Is that a Bobby Sherman wig?
I was going for the Einstein look, but it's just not messy enough.
Why yes!! I believe it is?
The first rule of using epoxy is WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!
Thank Sir 👍😊
Thanks for sharing
How did u cure epoxy ?
This is an excellent video of showing how not to do it. Way too much resin, where is your squeegee, the perforated plastic over the peel-ply just gets in the way of the excess resin transferring to the bleeder ply, and so much resin he lost all local vacuum where it soaked through to the vacuum bag, which is a big problem. If you don't have air space to pull a vacuum between the bag and part there is NO PRESSURE on the part, so no vacuum. Kudos he at least did the video, but it's only good for entertainment.
Show us a video of how it’s done.
While this is very painful to watch, I think some of your observations are slightly off the mark. The perforated film is used to limit bleed and control resin flow. If you allow the resin to bleed entirely to your breather, you will undoubtedly create a dry and porosity laden part. You can also see that he has vacuum path between the perforations (for most of the cure), and therefore has good vacuum on the part. If the breather is saturated, you will shut off your vacuum flow and lose the pressure you need. Surprisingly, his part seemed to be pretty good on the mold surface, but probably resin rich still. Why he added resin to the peel ply I'll never know.
Seriously labour-intensive process. That's not going to scale for series production. (I understand this case isn't.)
It actually scales quite nicely. Full size yachts and airplanes are made with these materials daily. They might use different methods, but the results are similar. It actually saves on labor as you can build your structure into the parts, or simply make a one piece part to eliminate many pieces.
Please think before you distract your teacher , don't be " that guy "
24:45 is that the placenta? lol
muito bom vídio ! (very good video)!
Thanks
cant watch the sound is bloody awful. what are they doing blowing over the mike its a shame
YUP - Sound's really annoying
Yes
Where are the gloves, safety glasses, lab coat, why is the orientation on the plays crucial, why don't work on a clean room?
Alfredo Reyna you think that's bad....come work at our place...
Trevor Elliott I work on the aerospace industry already. thanks for your offer.
What type of wax do you use for your mold?
David Madden , Carnuba car wax.
professionals not using (and therefore teaching about) safety equipment... i dont get it.
Makes one wonder if they know as much as they think they do.
Перчатки и пластиковые клинья вам в помощь.
What a dirty room to do layup
All I have to say is... That hair.
I know. At my age I'm trying to save all I've got. That and I'm too busy to get a haircut I guess.
Stop saying pressure!! It's vacuumed, measured in inches mercury. Teach people properly or don't bother!!!
Does anyone know about the usage of gloves. And never use you bare fingers around carbon fiber the way he showed us. Those little fibers go very deep into your skin, then your off to see your doctor. As I remove the parts from a mold, use a tool like a tongue depressor or very thin hard plastic. Never fingers. And if you knew how to use a squeegee, you would have a better part, lighter. When you have hard corners that the bag doesn't touch, your bag was too tight of a fit over your part. In that case you bring your vacuum up to around 3lbs, then push the bag into your hard edges, even use a tool. Then bring up the vacuum to full pressure. I have Forty years of Composites usage. You guys need a little more knowledge, then you can brag a little.
Come on then make a video and show us how it should be done - be great to see - how a pro does it
As painful as this is to watch, some of your advice is off the mark. In my near 40 years of composite manufacturing, I have never been to a doctor for touching raw carbon fiber. Furthermore, I have never known a single individual to do so either. Now, I have had my share of cuts and a few slivers while handling raw edges of parts, but I'll take the blame for those and some simple tweezers will get those slivers out. The bag he is using is called Stretchlon. It elongates 500%, so your comment of tight bag are unfounded. That doesn't mean that his breather materials aren't bridged, but he seemed to do good job of getting those in place before the bag, so it worked out well. You'll also note that his part looked quite nice on the mold side, but may have been a bit resin rich. AS you can see, there's more than one way to skin a cat. You may want to take some of your own advice and get "a little more knowledge" before bragging about your 40 years.
i highly reccomend removing this video !!! this is not the correct way to produce aviation parts.
it starts when they talk about an epoxypump, every certified aviation composite employee (company) know a pump cannot guarantee a correct mix ratio, simply because it is not 100% failproof!!
no gloves, safety glases no de-airing of the fabrics, dabbing with a brush makes air bubbles, and vacuum expands them
When i saw him placing the airtech connector in the middle of the part..... heheheh
hobbyist