I love how when rob started this project he knew basically nothing about building cars and using machinery. And how he still claims to know nothing to this day but yet this man has taught himself how to build engines, engineer suspension and use a tig welder and programme a CNC mill. Edit: Some morons obviously can't differentiate between "learning how to use something" and "becoming a master at something" and want to argue to try and deminish his ability. So I just want to clarify that i know he's not a master of any of these things, I'm just pointing out that he's taught himself enough in order to build this car himself rather than constantly paying others to do everything for him. And that's commendable.
It actually has some issues. The struts have a falling rate and the whole front of the chassis never really looked that rigid between the firewall and front tires. I’m sure Rob is aware of both of these issues.
He did say he kind of stole suspension idea from the hoonicorn mustang. And programing CNCs is super easy now as it is all software assisted now; load the cad select the tools, and it writes the program, HOSS machines even set themselves up.
Hey rob instead of using the emergency stop to stop the program just hit feed hold. It works just as fast and if you realize everything is ok you hit cycle start and it resumes machining. Also turn your rapid down when running a program for the first time. I run a 2014 vf4 at work just giving you friendly advice.
I was about to say the same thing. Figured I’d check before posting it myself. I also will hit feed hold about an inch above the part and check “distance to go” and if it looks about 1 inch I start the cycle again
@@kylegoerlitz7392 it's not just okuma, it's pretty much all fanuc controllers back a long ways. Even the enshu open air verticle I started on years ago had it. Haas is really only good for its interface, most other companies make a superior machine and fancy a superior controller
you’d be surprised, up until the 4 rotor engine first started about a year ago the comments section was filled with haters and wannabe armchair experts telling rob to give up
1:04 "I mean I have a $35k machine and I'm worried about saving the extra 15$... That's, that's why I can afford a $30k machine." This is a really important quote for people wanting to learn how to be wealthy.
It is very important, one man told me that every 10 cents counts, when i was working on a car and i needed to weld a nut on and it didnt work, got another nut. Yeah i'm not taking advice from a failed restaurant owner he bombed it into the ground in no time. Money matters, but you need to decide when does it really matter. You gonna charge the customer for the extra nut? Maybe but like why not just shop supplies, i'm not here to make a documentary about fixing the car i just want it done and good. Weath comes with hard work, knowing SOMETHING and doing it very well or broadcasting it and making others interested.
@@flippy9133 Which is BTW cheap, believe it or not. If he had just purchased a good (used, they are very pricy) CAM software too, he would be able to make so much more then what he currently is
triangles are by far the most useful mathematics I've learned. you can pretty much turn any spatial problem you may have into triangles. they're just so handy and straightforward to use it's crazy.
I always like to run everything around 25%-35% total speed for the first cuts to make sure it measures and comes out how I wanted each line of code. Saves a TON of money in tooling. Especially if you are running multiple parts. Saving, or making a working part first time consistantly is key to keeping cost down. Also, make sure you keep your machine clean at the end of every day. Nothing like the smell of some stale coolant and machining oils. WD40/PB Blaster and Scothbrite keeps the table clean nice
@@mostlymotorized To each their own. I could see certain 4 axis being difficult and finicky. But after being an operator in a humid area, I noticed especially after running certain tooling steels, rust stains and stench were special. I'm sure there are other solutions, but you listed none. Machining Oil works, certain mild detergeants are okay, just make sure it's mild, and thouroughly rinsed. Oh gawd the suds I could imagine! Mineral spirits, but man are they harsh.
Hey Rob, just an FYI, in Fusion 360, you can create a feature, like a hole, and create a circular pattern around a center point with however many features you want to duplicate and it will auto place them equi-distant from each other so you dont have to do all the math yourself. =) just look up fusion 360 pattern circle.
Unlike other channels I don't double-tap right when you make your product placements; thank you for the simple, not like... 'in your face' sponsor advertising
This is all the stuff I've had to teach myself on my works small mill. All the calculations and manually machining parts, it's a process. I probably would have thrown a sacrificial 1/8th inch plate over everything to sandwich it together better but they turned out pretty good and the super thin ones you probably won't use anyways. Love the content and your attitude towards building stuff. I love figuring stuff out and learn how to do it better the next time.
Another handy trick is to put the machine in single block mode, change the position to "distance to go" and then you can see if its going to try and go through the top of the job ! ua-cam.com/video/R8yIf8eQHvE/v-deo.html
@@LittleTrainZ Oh yes, time served :) Been a design engineer for 15yrs now but still write programs in Edgecam for a 5 axis mill & an EDM wirer on the odd occasion.
Realistically it should be said that you should use single block at the start of every tool since you're supposed to have a "safe" z movement on your height call so you can stop the machine and make sure it's actually. 1, or 1 inch or 2 inch away whatever you pick
I know nothing about CNC but I knew what you meant here! When that thing slammed down so fast my heart stopped for a second, lol. I have seen the cnc fail videos so I know things can go very bad very fast.
Rob, the machine has a 5% rapid button for a reason! I wouldn't full send on the first time running through the program. Feed hold is better than e stop, most of the time. Pressing reset on a Haas will stop the spindle and turn off coolant. And you should brush up on your trig! Awesome content, I love watching you work.
PLEASE ROB, take a machining course! Even a short one. I am 21 years old and only was a machinist, ahem button pusher, for three years but know that all you are missing is some confidence. Read up on your g and m codes. The program to cut your donut could have been 10 lines long bud. Save yourself time and headache and learn how to properly operate your cnc. Edit: forgot that two circles are needed for a donut. 😂 Been a few years since I was in a shop.
I think I saw a comment mentioning this already but just to be sure. I worked with a DMG Mori DMF 260/7 for quite some time so, I'm used to a different machine but this still applies. When running a new program, no matter who wrote it, run the feed extra slow. Especially during machine head movement. I always have my hand on the feed knob when running a program for the first time. That way I can slow everything down during critical moments and if something is wrong, I can just turn the feed to 0 and than back it out. That way to machine doesn't go into emergency stop and I can quickly edit and then resume the program. Saved me countless tools and a spindle or two. Replacing a spindle costs about 12000€ on that machine and many of the tools go into the thousands as well so, it's worth slowing down.
Rob, there is a 5% rapid button that is handy when proofing your new code on the first run. Combined with the Position - distance to go page, reduced feed and coolant off till the endmill starts cutting is a good recipe for ensuring your machine and tools stay healthy. Don't think that all that procedure will save you from breaking endmills - I break them as often, but that will allow you to catch and stop the machine from making greater damage. LOVE TO SEE YOU MAKING PARTS!
I'm impressed man, I run a couple Agie wire edm machines and it took me a good chunk of time to learn how to program and run the machines and that's with being taught by someone who already knew everything. To have the balls to be self taught an run theses kinds of machines is pretty intense! Keep up the good work man, and don't forget to do your maintenance!
@@rickjason215 There are many different kinds of programming, just because you know one doesn't mean you'll be able to jump right into another. If there's even much programming in security systems it's not going to be anything like telling a machine how to cut a design. I did some basic computer programming back in school and it was nothing like setting up a wire edm machine program.
Good job getting started. I program and run these machines at my job so hit me up with any questions. First thing I see about the tool path is you are plunging the end mill into the material. Endmills don’t like that. What you can do is use a ramp contour tool path this allows for the endmill to enter at an angle and feed downwards in increments you choose. I usually do 3 deg ramp angle and step down of .005” this will allow for a better cut but with you’re thin material it might start warping. Second thing is 5-6 flute endmills don’t cut aluminum well, it usually gets stuck to those high flute carbide endmills. Other than that keep on milling. With practice comes experience and remember that it’s not if you’re going to crash it’s when. You will definitely learn from your mistakes but overcoming these mistakes makes you a better machinist/programmer.
@@KahL646 then he's bought himself a ton more time doing the job. He could have done it all on the mill if he had a rotary table. Fix the DRO and you don't need to G code either.
Rob, you never cease to amaze me anymore. So many bad ass tools you’ve amassed, and taught yourself how to use them all. CNC, machining, welding, tuning, you’re fucking smart and deserve the praise brothur!!
Hey Rob! Quick tip if you find yourself cutting out a ring in the future - Start with the outer edge! Starting with the inner edge means that the middle bolt is not helping keep the piece secure during the second cut. A minor difference in this case, but it might come in handy one day. Love the videos. Especially love watching you expand your skill set! Hope I was able to offer some useful insight.
DAHM, you should start checking out used ads or options for laser cutting. A lot of cool things you need could be laser cut. So be it owning the machine or finding a local shop to support, this is an important element. And it's not just shims, shields, small button plaques, trim, bits and bobs. Worth investing in. One of the diff shops in my area, thought that it was such an important thing to have, they actually advertised space in their hangar for any company willing to nest with them. And i think it paid off because they always have all the shims you could possibly have on hand and if they don't, they make them quick.
Little tip for doing something like this in the future. For thin stuff. Make something thick that is the shape you need so it doesn’t get too mucked up to firmly clamp down the flimsy bits so they don’t bend out of whack. Other than that. This is crazy man. I’ve been out of the loop for a while because I’ve been busy working and fixing my car and you’ve picked up a cnc machine and are doing some of your own welding and learned how to use the new mill. That’s awesome man. This is why I love your videos because it really shows that if you want something you can achieve it with a little help, humility and good ol’ hard work and dedication. Good work man. I hope SEMA is on for next year so I can come check out the car.
Wolfgang Koeppen only if you’re using mazatrol. Otherwise going between screens is annoying. Also helps if your foreman uses coolant that doesn’t react with the seals. Speaking from experience here, if you can’t tell 😂
Hey rob, quick tip from a Technician, Inches per minute to calculate feeds and rpm for steel are about 150sfm with a steel endmill and 350-400 sfm with carbide, use the equation : RPM= (sfmX4)/Diameter of the tool, for the feed, use about .005 inches per teeth generally, for the linear feed: feed=inches per tooth(.005) x number of teeth on the tool x RPM oh and the main bearing of the press drill sounds like it's dying
Another cool trick with tapping using a manual mill is to simply use the quill as a pilot- a lot of tapping handles will have a divot in the top that you can use with a center drill or an actual dead center like you'd have on a lathe tailstock and use that to make sure your tap is perfectly aligned with the hole you're working on, then manually work it around. Much easier than tapping something by hand, especially in harder materials that you're more likely to break a tap in if it's crooked.
currently a freshman in college taking mechanical engineering, its like I've been learning alongside Rob, just wrote my first G code program last night!
The ruby bit self adjusting process was so satisfying to watch, it's awesome to see the whole process of setting something even so little as a cnc bit up! From a (hopefully) future engineer, your videos rock Mr. Dahm.
I've done a lot of work setting up differentials ... Pinion shims, carrier shims, crush washer, pinion nut, and that horrible yellow leaded paint - making the shims for that BMW differential was completely awesome! I still wonder why you didn't fit a quick change differential in front there because that would allow you the regular driving ratio and the high speed ratio all while still allowing all wheel drive for the different situations without having to do lots of extra work every time you want to make that change. You could even have some weird super high burnout ratio that you could change too and you could have a 600 mile per hour ratio that you could change to ... I get that's ridiculous but boy would it be fun
It’s great you have the tools to actually fabricate your parts. I assume most everything on this car had to be built specific or modified to work for this application. It really shows how much work is involved to get to the end product. Should be running an engineering class for mechanical engineers.
Glad to see that you (and your Crew) are making use of this Wonderful Milling Machine! More Creativity and more Engineering!!! Custom Parts, for a Custom Car. I'd LOVE to be able to afford and plan a Trip to visit your Shop FIRTSHAND.👍 Take care Rob Dahm, 🤓 -Thomas Port Orchard, Washington
Mr. Dahm showing off his fancy CNC-skills... Makes me wish i had one! My dad has been doing about 5 of these diffs a week lately, and although we don't often need extra shims; when he does, guess who gets to make some extra ones... (Completely by hand!) Even your broken DRO is more than what i have available to me...
Hey Rob! If you loosen the textured nut on your x, y and z axis's on your manual mill you can set the dials to zero so you don't have to remember what the dial was at before you moved.
Hey Rob, If I was you I'd bring that 6 tooth cutter in more slowly when initially drilling downward. The very centre point of the tool doesn't have a cutting surface capable of cutting directly downward hence why you usually use a 2 tooth tool to cut slots. Any tool above 2 teeth is generally better for cutting edges rather than drilling. It shouldn't be a problem when just drilling to start a slot but it'll save your tool in the long run if the initial plunge cut is done more gently 😄
A little tip from a machinist. When you are running a program for the first time run it with a +z offset. If you deepest cut is lets say 3 inches make it at least +4" that way you can check the tool path. Also running single step to make sure you got all the right coordinate.
Long time ago i was an green button punsher on an Haas. Did not do any programing or "installations" , Just change bit and pushed the green button, But if i remember correctly u can easy slow down the speed off the program and be ready to push the stop button, And look so the machine is doing what it suppose to do. And if i remember u can also easy turn off the cooling so u can see what the machine is doing and stop it a few mm from the piece and look in the program how long distance it have left for travel. Keep up the good work and dreams : )
G'day from West Australia, Rob😉 Very nice creativity in a bind!! Dad's old saying springs to mind ; If you have the big boy toys then the mother of necessity creates your desired outcome for perfection!!!🙂👍👍
It's cool that you can make the parts by yourself, and actually use the tools that you have. It is smart to let someone who has done it before shim out the diff.
Those turned out much better than I expected - a saving in time and some good maching practice, too! Old school would be hole punches and sharp scissors. New school I'd have had them laser or water jet cut - either of which would have added days to the job - smart move avoiding that.
You should get yourself a machinist handbook. They’re pretty cheap and a priceless tool when trying to find speeds/feeds, or anything else relating to machining.
Love watching this build coming together. Watching you drill those shims was a pain though. Get the machinists handbook. It has tables for hole spacing along with loads of other useful stuff.
Balls of steel with those rapid travels. I always used to run my rapids at 20% and stand ready on the feed hold for the first run of a new program. Good work cutting that shim stock, it's finnickey at best. I miss running CNCs...
I would use multiplex wood. Wasting that nice aluminum made me cry a bit. Just set the plates with wood screws with small washers 10 outside and 10 in. Then cut the hole operation first on the CNC, and then set screws with plates in all the new holes. And cut away. Fusion 360 can divide the holes easy and seprate the operations. Great channel!
Rob I use manual and CNC machines of all kinds every single day. I can say I didnt not cringe that hard at all watching this video so take that as a pat on the back for sure. It only gets easier with experience and learning from mistakes. Great job.
Use your DRO's features bro. On almost all DRO's there is a PCD feature. Gives you exact coordinates for whatever bolt circle/pitch circle diameter you want. You just set the zero point for the center of the circle, then add in the amount of holes, and then diameter. It generates the coordinate system for the holes and tells you number 1, then you skip to next hole, rinse and repeat. Props for learning this stuff. Machining is insanely rewarding but boy can you spend some moolah. Alot of time spending on the mistakes you made and having to fix em, so don't let those issues discourage you. SFM and your feeds are critical depending on material being cut, tool being used, and rigidity of the machine doing the cutting.
Hey Rob, you should use more cutting oil, especially when you’re tapping with the upright mill. Your taps and parts will be much happier. You literally can’t use enough lube.
I bought the factory Bmw shims 5 years ago I believe, it comes in 2 sets if I remember, it wasn't cheap though, like 200+ bucks. I've used quite a lot setting the diffs, but having custom ones gonna make your life easier for sure. Nice job
Hey rob on a hass hit setting graphs twice to display graphics to show what your actually cutting. Can be done in memory mode or mdi i believe been awhile since I ran a hass but ran em and programed em for 5 years ps get mastercam and don't even f with the manual machine I understand the fixture but you only needed one taped hole in the center lol your getting it man keep moving forward!
The next time you do a shim pack like that, cut yourself a piece of 1/4in aluminum for the top layer and it will fix the warping problem. That’s my favorite trick when milling thin material like that.
Rob have a look at getting some machine/ spiral flute taps, they remove the chips for you and are less likely to break. Also see if you can find a tool man who can tell you what endmills and other tooling you want.
NIce job Rob! it's not exactly easy running those machines and getting a useable result, you've done well. It would have been a nice idea to use a top sandwich plate on your shim jig to stop them warping, but they came out nicely! you made it look way easier that it actually was!
Machining tip: you can set the NC to interpolate the circles. So it will cut the diameter whilst spiralling down in Z at the same time. Maybe go 0.008” per ‘lap’ of the circle if you want to be cautious. Those 6 flute cutters don’t like to be plunged into a face. Maybe get a slot drill (2 flute) or a 4 flute end mill 👍🏽 Also turn your rapid traverse down to make it a bit less scary 👍🏽
Great work! I find machining to be quite fascinating. So interesting to think that with the right tools and know-how, many parts could simply be made custom in the shop. Love it.
Hey rob just a heads up, when machine tapping you should use a spiral flute tap, they work much better for blind holes. What you're using is a hand tap, not great for chip clearing and on steel parts itll cause issues for you.
You can get those shims from BMW. The 188mm differential is very common. Cool that you made the shims yourself, but unnecessary. Make sure you replace the 6 bolts that hold the side caps on. Pre crush the crush washer. I've rebuilt a lot of BMW diffs. When you were machining the shims a machinist trick is to put a piece of sacrificial aluminum on top of them as well sandwiching the shims. You won't get the deformation of the thin stock like you got. Good work putting your machines to work!
His ad segue was almost as smooth as Ed Bolian, and quite a bit better than Linus Sebastian. On a more serious note. This is amazing how far you've come.
Use a 4 flute endmill for slotting steel tale there is more space for the chips to escape. The 6 flute endmill will be better for perimeter milling as the feed per tooth is lower for a flyover rpm and feedrate which will give you a better surface finish
he has shims already. what you do, drill and tap first hole. step two, bolt shim to stack. step 3, transfer punch all the rest of the holes. 4,drill tap and cut.
Man I wish I was there to help you with the programing, I have a few tips for working on the cnc(no pun intended). You don't have to be completely fearless when running your programs, start it slow, some machines have a dial on the machine for the rapid feed rate and normal feed rate. Also if you close your normal feed rate the machine should stop moving completely except for the spindle. As for the programing, your contour is correct but see if you can "ramp" down at a continuous rate instead of directly plunging into the material every new depth cut you take. So start like 0.01 above and no lead in or lead out either because you don't want to ramp down 2 inches and have the tool want to lead out ^^
When I saw the CNC machine's logo I was like: Wait, I know that logo... Then I checked and discovered that Haas is an automation company, didn't know the origin of the F1 team lol
pro tip, model you entire setup in fusion, then use that to see if your tool will mill into it. you could even model a large ring where you don't want the tool to go, so it wont crash into your fixturing. in the setup include it as the stock, so it shows up in the simulation. also your tool may have been pulling the material up, or the tool itself may have been getting pulled down out of the collet.
And this is why almost every one of my comments have the word "Genius" in them lol, I need to start using "mad scientist" a little more. Because you can't deny it, Rob is a rotary mad scientist and a Genius!!
Rob, do your self a favor and make a solid DOM sleeve to replace the crush sleeve. It's going to allow too much axial play of the pinion immediately after you launch, thus causing the diff to grenade.
11:52 if you can buy, HSS tools instead of carbide they are cheaper when you crash😂👍 "single step" or single block here on the first run and read the code BEFORE you run it.
I love how when rob started this project he knew basically nothing about building cars and using machinery. And how he still claims to know nothing to this day but yet this man has taught himself how to build engines, engineer suspension and use a tig welder and programme a CNC mill.
Edit: Some morons obviously can't differentiate between "learning how to use something" and "becoming a master at something" and want to argue to try and deminish his ability. So I just want to clarify that i know he's not a master of any of these things, I'm just pointing out that he's taught himself enough in order to build this car himself rather than constantly paying others to do everything for him. And that's commendable.
On the suspension part he just become genius to find an already amazing design
It actually has some issues. The struts have a falling rate and the whole front of the chassis never really looked that rigid between the firewall and front tires. I’m sure Rob is aware of both of these issues.
He did say he kind of stole suspension idea from the hoonicorn mustang. And programing CNCs is super easy now as it is all software assisted now; load the cad select the tools, and it writes the program, HOSS machines even set themselves up.
and still doesn't know how to use cosines
I was just thinking the same thing.
Hey rob instead of using the emergency stop to stop the program just hit feed hold. It works just as fast and if you realize everything is ok you hit cycle start and it resumes machining. Also turn your rapid down when running a program for the first time. I run a 2014 vf4 at work just giving you friendly advice.
I was about to say the same thing. Figured I’d check before posting it myself. I also will hit feed hold about an inch above the part and check “distance to go” and if it looks about 1 inch I start the cycle again
@@kohlhorsch8171 yes i forgot to mention that as well
He is practicing to make the rotor billet block.
wish HAAS would put feed and rapid knobs on their controllers like okuma does. at work we all just put feed and rapids at 20% or so to be safe.
@@kylegoerlitz7392 it's not just okuma, it's pretty much all fanuc controllers back a long ways. Even the enshu open air verticle I started on years ago had it. Haas is really only good for its interface, most other companies make a superior machine and fancy a superior controller
Rob blessing my school days with content to watch in class
Try hard you'll appreciate it later
Pay attention or you won't be able to build your own sick race car... I made that mistake
@@Matty.Hill_87 In my government class I'd take a 30 minute nap cause I blew through my work. Could be the same principal
Same. Om Done with everything so the teachers asks me to go home since they think i Waste my time.
Same
i seriously don't know how anyone can hate this guy you can clearly see the dedication and the PASSION that he puts into his builds
you’d be surprised, up until the 4 rotor engine first started about a year ago the comments section was filled with haters and wannabe armchair experts telling rob to give up
That's exactly why how people can hate. Haters gonna hate because they can't be like this guy
1:04 "I mean I have a $35k machine and I'm worried about saving the extra 15$... That's, that's why I can afford a $30k machine."
This is a really important quote for people wanting to learn how to be wealthy.
exactly
It is very important, one man told me that every 10 cents counts, when i was working on a car and i needed to weld a nut on and it didnt work, got another nut. Yeah i'm not taking advice from a failed restaurant owner he bombed it into the ground in no time. Money matters, but you need to decide when does it really matter. You gonna charge the customer for the extra nut? Maybe but like why not just shop supplies, i'm not here to make a documentary about fixing the car i just want it done and good. Weath comes with hard work, knowing SOMETHING and doing it very well or broadcasting it and making others interested.
It's so true.
To forget $5k ? :D
I love Rob's attitude, if you can't buy it, make it🤣
but first you need to buy 35k mill :D
@@flippy9133 Which is BTW cheap, believe it or not. If he had just purchased a good (used, they are very pricy) CAM software too, he would be able to make so much more then what he currently is
Students to math teachers: when are we ever going to use Pythagorean theorem
Rob Dahm: 6:29
Y E S
Built my friend some stairs. Had to bust it out. Super useful.
triangles are by far the most useful mathematics I've learned. you can pretty much turn any spatial problem you may have into triangles. they're just so handy and straightforward to use it's crazy.
Don't yall forget sin and cos law
@@m8onethousand Triangles are super applicable to real life.
I always like to run everything around 25%-35% total speed for the first cuts to make sure it measures and comes out how I wanted each line of code. Saves a TON of money in tooling. Especially if you are running multiple parts. Saving, or making a working part first time consistantly is key to keeping cost down. Also, make sure you keep your machine clean at the end of every day. Nothing like the smell of some stale coolant and machining oils. WD40/PB Blaster and Scothbrite keeps the table clean nice
First run at 100% had me puckering haha
@@mostlymotorized To each their own. I could see certain 4 axis being difficult and finicky. But after being an operator in a humid area, I noticed especially after running certain tooling steels, rust stains and stench were special. I'm sure there are other solutions, but you listed none. Machining Oil works, certain mild detergeants are okay, just make sure it's mild, and thouroughly rinsed. Oh gawd the suds I could imagine! Mineral spirits, but man are they harsh.
Hey Rob, just an FYI, in Fusion 360, you can create a feature, like a hole, and create a circular pattern around a center point with however many features you want to duplicate and it will auto place them equi-distant from each other so you dont have to do all the math yourself. =) just look up fusion 360 pattern circle.
Unlike other channels I don't double-tap right when you make your product placements; thank you for the simple, not like... 'in your face' sponsor advertising
This is all the stuff I've had to teach myself on my works small mill. All the calculations and manually machining parts, it's a process.
I probably would have thrown a sacrificial 1/8th inch plate over everything to sandwich it together better but they turned out pretty good and the super thin ones you probably won't use anyways.
Love the content and your attitude towards building stuff. I love figuring stuff out and learn how to do it better the next time.
Amazing that you taught yourself CNC, slow that rapid down though its a lot less scary
Another handy trick is to put the machine in single block mode, change the position to "distance to go" and then you can see if its going to try and go through the top of the job ! ua-cam.com/video/R8yIf8eQHvE/v-deo.html
@@shaunwilmer2358 fellow machinist!
@@LittleTrainZ Oh yes, time served :) Been a design engineer for 15yrs now but still write programs in Edgecam for a 5 axis mill & an EDM wirer on the odd occasion.
Realistically it should be said that you should use single block at the start of every tool since you're supposed to have a "safe" z movement on your height call so you can stop the machine and make sure it's actually. 1, or 1 inch or 2 inch away whatever you pick
I know nothing about CNC but I knew what you meant here! When that thing slammed down so fast my heart stopped for a second, lol. I have seen the cnc fail videos so I know things can go very bad very fast.
Cmon Rob... it’s not “left, right, backwards “... it’s “X, Y and Z!” Talk CNC lol... love the content!!
left, right and backwards is only X & Z, Y is height
@@Ezthereals x is left/right y is front/back z is up/down
@@randy0048 He's using Minecraft coordinates for knowledge lol
@@megahornet Some European machines use y for the vertical axis.
In various CAD programs Y and Z defaults can be flipped. I prefer Z being the vertical axis because it just makes more sense to me.
Rob, the machine has a 5% rapid button for a reason! I wouldn't full send on the first time running through the program. Feed hold is better than e stop, most of the time. Pressing reset on a Haas will stop the spindle and turn off coolant. And you should brush up on your trig! Awesome content, I love watching you work.
PLEASE ROB, take a machining course! Even a short one. I am 21 years old and only was a machinist, ahem button pusher, for three years but know that all you are missing is some confidence. Read up on your g and m codes. The program to cut your donut could have been 10 lines long bud. Save yourself time and headache and learn how to properly operate your cnc.
Edit: forgot that two circles are needed for a donut. 😂 Been a few years since I was in a shop.
I think I saw a comment mentioning this already but just to be sure. I worked with a DMG Mori DMF 260/7 for quite some time so, I'm used to a different machine but this still applies. When running a new program, no matter who wrote it, run the feed extra slow. Especially during machine head movement. I always have my hand on the feed knob when running a program for the first time. That way I can slow everything down during critical moments and if something is wrong, I can just turn the feed to 0 and than back it out. That way to machine doesn't go into emergency stop and I can quickly edit and then resume the program. Saved me countless tools and a spindle or two. Replacing a spindle costs about 12000€ on that machine and many of the tools go into the thousands as well so, it's worth slowing down.
Rob, there is a 5% rapid button that is handy when proofing your new code on the first run. Combined with the Position - distance to go page, reduced feed and coolant off till the endmill starts cutting is a good recipe for ensuring your machine and tools stay healthy. Don't think that all that procedure will save you from breaking endmills - I break them as often, but that will allow you to catch and stop the machine from making greater damage. LOVE TO SEE YOU MAKING PARTS!
I'm impressed man, I run a couple Agie wire edm machines and it took me a good chunk of time to learn how to program and run the machines and that's with being taught by someone who already knew everything. To have the balls to be self taught an run theses kinds of machines is pretty intense! Keep up the good work man, and don't forget to do your maintenance!
I think he has a computer security business. He knows programming.
@@rickjason215 There are many different kinds of programming, just because you know one doesn't mean you'll be able to jump right into another. If there's even much programming in security systems it's not going to be anything like telling a machine how to cut a design. I did some basic computer programming back in school and it was nothing like setting up a wire edm machine program.
Good job getting started. I program and run these machines at my job so hit me up with any questions. First thing I see about the tool path is you are plunging the end mill into the material. Endmills don’t like that. What you can do is use a ramp contour tool path this allows for the endmill to enter at an angle and feed downwards in increments you choose. I usually do 3 deg ramp angle and step down of .005” this will allow for a better cut but with you’re thin material it might start warping. Second thing is 5-6 flute endmills don’t cut aluminum well, it usually gets stuck to those high flute carbide endmills. Other than that keep on milling. With practice comes experience and remember that it’s not if you’re going to crash it’s when. You will definitely learn from your mistakes but overcoming these mistakes makes you a better machinist/programmer.
The DRO has bolt circle functionality already built in. Spend some time with DRO vids and it'll make using that mill a lot easier.
Yep. Adam Savage just didn’t it on texted. And Alec Steele did it on his channel too. UA-camrs unite! Lol.
The dro he said within the first 2 minutes wasn't working ?
@@KahL646 then he's bought himself a ton more time doing the job. He could have done it all on the mill if he had a rotary table. Fix the DRO and you don't need to G code either.
Watching from "Yugoslavia" for a few years now. Oh and no, its not a country any more
I promise not all americans are that bad at geography hahaha
@@TEAMSTEAM4LIFE most are.
As someone who’s been working with metal and running and setting up cnc’s for over four year you are doing very well with it all.
*casually makes more manual work in a video then I’ve done in my whole life*
Much love, your friends at Rev Media!!
*slowly stroking up and down* “you can actually use this to tap”🤣🤣 classic Rob being oblivious
Rob getting freaky with machines, no simp September is almost over come on!
just be in an ascended time zone and be october already lol
Rob, you never cease to amaze me anymore. So many bad ass tools you’ve amassed, and taught yourself how to use them all. CNC, machining, welding, tuning, you’re fucking smart and deserve the praise brothur!!
Hey Rob! Quick tip if you find yourself cutting out a ring in the future - Start with the outer edge! Starting with the inner edge means that the middle bolt is not helping keep the piece secure during the second cut. A minor difference in this case, but it might come in handy one day.
Love the videos. Especially love watching you expand your skill set! Hope I was able to offer some useful insight.
DAHM, you should start checking out used ads or options for laser cutting. A lot of cool things you need could be laser cut. So be it owning the machine or finding a local shop to support, this is an important element. And it's not just shims, shields, small button plaques, trim, bits and bobs. Worth investing in.
One of the diff shops in my area, thought that it was such an important thing to have, they actually advertised space in their hangar for any company willing to nest with them. And i think it paid off because they always have all the shims you could possibly have on hand and if they don't, they make them quick.
You should look into HSM advisor, it will give you speeds and feeds depending on tool and material.
Little tip for doing something like this in the future. For thin stuff. Make something thick that is the shape you need so it doesn’t get too mucked up to firmly clamp down the flimsy bits so they don’t bend out of whack. Other than that. This is crazy man. I’ve been out of the loop for a while because I’ve been busy working and fixing my car and you’ve picked up a cnc machine and are doing some of your own welding and learned how to use the new mill. That’s awesome man. This is why I love your videos because it really shows that if you want something you can achieve it with a little help, humility and good ol’ hard work and dedication. Good work man. I hope SEMA is on for next year so I can come check out the car.
Good to see at least one Haas is working. Magnussen and Grosjeans’ Haas machines appear to be malfunctioning smh
disagree, those haas machines work fine, except this one is a but quicker then grosjean and magnussens
Yeah Haas is killing it with a buy it philosophy, Integration not so much.
Funniest thing I’ve read all morning!
Mazak is where its at tbh
Wolfgang Koeppen only if you’re using mazatrol. Otherwise going between screens is annoying. Also helps if your foreman uses coolant that doesn’t react with the seals. Speaking from experience here, if you can’t tell 😂
Really enjoying these vids bro ! Can really appreciate an enjoyable / educational filmmaker on UA-cam..
Hey rob, quick tip from a Technician, Inches per minute to calculate feeds and rpm for steel are about 150sfm with a steel endmill and 350-400 sfm with carbide, use the equation : RPM= (sfmX4)/Diameter of the tool, for the feed, use about .005 inches per teeth generally, for the linear feed: feed=inches per tooth(.005) x number of teeth on the tool x RPM
oh and the main bearing of the press drill sounds like it's dying
Vc is sfm not ipm. 🙃
Got mixed up in my units, thanks
Another cool trick with tapping using a manual mill is to simply use the quill as a pilot- a lot of tapping handles will have a divot in the top that you can use with a center drill or an actual dead center like you'd have on a lathe tailstock and use that to make sure your tap is perfectly aligned with the hole you're working on, then manually work it around. Much easier than tapping something by hand, especially in harder materials that you're more likely to break a tap in if it's crooked.
currently a freshman in college taking mechanical engineering, its like I've been learning alongside Rob, just wrote my first G code program last night!
The ruby bit self adjusting process was so satisfying to watch, it's awesome to see the whole process of setting something even so little as a cnc bit up! From a (hopefully) future engineer, your videos rock Mr. Dahm.
I've done a lot of work setting up differentials ... Pinion shims, carrier shims, crush washer, pinion nut, and that horrible yellow leaded paint - making the shims for that BMW differential was completely awesome!
I still wonder why you didn't fit a quick change differential in front there because that would allow you the regular driving ratio and the high speed ratio all while still allowing all wheel drive for the different situations without having to do lots of extra work every time you want to make that change.
You could even have some weird super high burnout ratio that you could change too and you could have a 600 mile per hour ratio that you could change to ... I get that's ridiculous but boy would it be fun
It’s great you have the tools to actually fabricate your parts. I assume most everything on this car had to be built specific or modified to work for this application. It really shows how much work is involved to get to the end product. Should be running an engineering class for mechanical engineers.
MATH RULES ALL!
So glad that you have the KNOWLEDGE and Equipment to be able to make your own Shims...👍
Peace Out!
-Thomas
Glad to see that you (and your Crew) are making use of this Wonderful Milling Machine!
More Creativity and more Engineering!!!
Custom Parts, for a Custom Car.
I'd LOVE to be able to afford and plan a Trip to visit your Shop FIRTSHAND.👍
Take care Rob Dahm,
🤓 -Thomas
Port Orchard, Washington
Mr. Dahm showing off his fancy CNC-skills... Makes me wish i had one! My dad has been doing about 5 of these diffs a week lately, and although we don't often need extra shims; when he does, guess who gets to make some extra ones... (Completely by hand!) Even your broken DRO is more than what i have available to me...
Hey Rob! If you loosen the textured nut on your x, y and z axis's on your manual mill you can set the dials to zero so you don't have to remember what the dial was at before you moved.
Hey Rob,
If I was you I'd bring that 6 tooth cutter in more slowly when initially drilling downward. The very centre point of the tool doesn't have a cutting surface capable of cutting directly downward hence why you usually use a 2 tooth tool to cut slots. Any tool above 2 teeth is generally better for cutting edges rather than drilling.
It shouldn't be a problem when just drilling to start a slot but it'll save your tool in the long run if the initial plunge cut is done more gently 😄
A little tip from a machinist. When you are running a program for the first time run it with a +z offset.
If you deepest cut is lets say 3 inches make it at least +4" that way you can check the tool path.
Also running single step to make sure you got all the right coordinate.
Rob out here power taping aluminum. Send it!! Also be careful when doing that if you bottom the tap out in the hole you can snap it off.
Long time ago i was an green button punsher on an Haas. Did not do any programing or "installations" , Just change bit and pushed the green button, But if i remember correctly u can easy slow down the speed off the program and be ready to push the stop button, And look so the machine is doing what it suppose to do. And if i remember u can also easy turn off the cooling so u can see what the machine is doing and stop it a few mm from the piece and look in the program how long distance it have left for travel. Keep up the good work and dreams : )
G'day from West Australia, Rob😉
Very nice creativity in a bind!!
Dad's old saying springs to mind ; If you have the big boy toys then the mother of necessity creates your desired outcome for perfection!!!🙂👍👍
It's cool that you can make the parts by yourself, and actually use the tools that you have. It is smart to let someone who has done it before shim out the diff.
Those turned out much better than I expected - a saving in time and some good maching practice, too!
Old school would be hole punches and sharp scissors.
New school I'd have had them laser or water jet cut - either of which would have added days to the job - smart move avoiding that.
You should get yourself a machinist handbook. They’re pretty cheap and a priceless tool when trying to find speeds/feeds, or anything else relating to machining.
The counting got a giggle out of me, I loved the squeaky voice! Also machining is very satisfying to watch..
Love watching this build coming together. Watching you drill those shims was a pain though. Get the machinists handbook. It has tables for hole spacing along with loads of other useful stuff.
Melin tools has a couple really good charts for sfm and chip per tooth for figuring out your speeds and feeds in different materials
07:30 love watching the machines doing their job
Balls of steel with those rapid travels. I always used to run my rapids at 20% and stand ready on the feed hold for the first run of a new program. Good work cutting that shim stock, it's finnickey at best. I miss running CNCs...
Rob coming in clutch on these lunch time uploads
I would use multiplex wood. Wasting that nice aluminum made me cry a bit. Just set the plates with wood screws with small washers 10 outside and 10 in. Then cut the hole operation first on the CNC, and then set screws with plates in all the new holes. And cut away. Fusion 360 can divide the holes easy and seprate the operations. Great channel!
Rob I use manual and CNC machines of all kinds every single day. I can say I didnt not cringe that hard at all watching this video so take that as a pat on the back for sure. It only gets easier with experience and learning from mistakes. Great job.
Use your DRO's features bro. On almost all DRO's there is a PCD feature. Gives you exact coordinates for whatever bolt circle/pitch circle diameter you want. You just set the zero point for the center of the circle, then add in the amount of holes, and then diameter. It generates the coordinate system for the holes and tells you number 1, then you skip to next hole, rinse and repeat.
Props for learning this stuff. Machining is insanely rewarding but boy can you spend some moolah. Alot of time spending on the mistakes you made and having to fix em, so don't let those issues discourage you. SFM and your feeds are critical depending on material being cut, tool being used, and rigidity of the machine doing the cutting.
Can't find'em ? Make'em! Epic work, hope the race goes well for you!!!
Hey Rob, you should use more cutting oil, especially when you’re tapping with the upright mill. Your taps and parts will be much happier. You literally can’t use enough lube.
I bought the factory Bmw shims 5 years ago I believe, it comes in 2 sets if I remember, it wasn't cheap though, like 200+ bucks. I've used quite a lot setting the diffs, but having custom ones gonna make your life easier for sure. Nice job
Hey rob on a hass hit setting graphs twice to display graphics to show what your actually cutting. Can be done in memory mode or mdi i believe been awhile since I ran a hass but ran em and programed em for 5 years ps get mastercam and don't even f with the manual machine I understand the fixture but you only needed one taped hole in the center lol your getting it man keep moving forward!
actually really cool to see the machine in action and how it works step by step can proper geek out over that XD
The next time you do a shim pack like that, cut yourself a piece of 1/4in aluminum for the top layer and it will fix the warping problem. That’s my favorite trick when milling thin material like that.
I remember that I had to learn a little bit about CNC code in school. It all came back to me when you showed the screen.
Rob have a look at getting some machine/ spiral flute taps, they remove the chips for you and are less likely to break. Also see if you can find a tool man who can tell you what endmills and other tooling you want.
Rob, you're the coolest UA-camr out there. Seriously this is awesome content. Keep up the good work!!!
NIce job Rob! it's not exactly easy running those machines and getting a useable result, you've done well.
It would have been a nice idea to use a top sandwich plate on your shim jig to stop them warping, but they came out nicely! you made it look way easier that it actually was!
Machining tip: you can set the NC to interpolate the circles. So it will cut the diameter whilst spiralling down in Z at the same time. Maybe go 0.008” per ‘lap’ of the circle if you want to be cautious. Those 6 flute cutters don’t like to be plunged into a face. Maybe get a slot drill (2 flute) or a 4 flute end mill 👍🏽
Also turn your rapid traverse down to make it a bit less scary 👍🏽
Chinesium mill tools are good to stockpile and have on hand for light duty stuff like that.
Great work! I find machining to be quite fascinating. So interesting to think that with the right tools and know-how, many parts could simply be made custom in the shop. Love it.
Man, this stuff is so cool. I love how you show us so much and explain things. You’re very smart
Ok, hands down my favorite car enthousiast youtube channel.
Rob Dahm: Buys a $30k HAAS CNC
Also Rob Dahm: Drills a bolt circle on the clapped out mill without DRO
Thats what I was thinking!
Nailed it on the head
same thought ^^
What's your point?
Only because he doesn’t know how to use his CNC.
Hey rob just a heads up, when machine tapping you should use a spiral flute tap, they work much better for blind holes. What you're using is a hand tap, not great for chip clearing and on steel parts itll cause issues for you.
This race is the most exciting part of 2020
"My first time running generated code"......100% rapid to the table, legend.
You can get those shims from BMW. The 188mm differential is very common.
Cool that you made the shims yourself, but unnecessary.
Make sure you replace the 6 bolts that hold the side caps on. Pre crush the crush washer.
I've rebuilt a lot of BMW diffs.
When you were machining the shims a machinist trick is to put a piece of sacrificial aluminum on top of them as well sandwiching the shims. You won't get the deformation of the thin stock like you got.
Good work putting your machines to work!
His ad segue was almost as smooth as Ed Bolian, and quite a bit better than Linus Sebastian.
On a more serious note. This is amazing how far you've come.
Use a 4 flute endmill for slotting steel tale there is more space for the chips to escape. The 6 flute endmill will be better for perimeter milling as the feed per tooth is lower for a flyover rpm and feedrate which will give you a better surface finish
I just learned how to do this building my own hubs, Fusion 360 was super easy to do all the bolt patterns with and its free for hobbyist , check it.
I have never wanted to see AvE and Rob do a video together more than now.
6:18 That moment you realize you DO actually have to use algebra. "Chuckles.... I'm in danger." 😅😨
Trig isn't algebra.
he has shims already. what you do, drill and tap first hole. step two, bolt shim to stack. step 3, transfer punch all the rest of the holes. 4,drill tap and cut.
@@billybobjoe198 Lol, this is true. Trig seems like it would be worse.
Man I wish I was there to help you with the programing, I have a few tips for working on the cnc(no pun intended). You don't have to be completely fearless when running your programs, start it slow, some machines have a dial on the machine for the rapid feed rate and normal feed rate. Also if you close your normal feed rate the machine should stop moving completely except for the spindle. As for the programing, your contour is correct but see if you can "ramp" down at a continuous rate instead of directly plunging into the material every new depth cut you take. So start like 0.01 above and no lead in or lead out either because you don't want to ramp down 2 inches and have the tool want to lead out ^^
Good luck on your race Rob!
Love he showed everything no secrets really doesn’t cut major spot out
It’s so cool seeing rob use the same exact machines I use on a daily basis at my work
Math is not that confusing
Also Math: 6:35
"....Even though it's a circle, it ends up being a triangle....."
Thinking outside the box to get the job done.. I can't believe how close this thing is to being an actual car now!!
Congrats mr rob dahm you just created a new market man. You could sell and make these shims now. 🙌🏼🙌🏼
Iam obsessed with rotaries like you. It is my passion. And I extremely love your videos👍💞♥️
When I saw the CNC machine's logo I was like: Wait, I know that logo... Then I checked and discovered that Haas is an automation company, didn't know the origin of the F1 team lol
They also make the interfaces in the steering wheels on basically all f1 cars. You can see the haas splash on startup
Rob, with the cats. Look them in the eyes and slowly blink at them. It's how cats show trust/affection.
Lol
okc 306 no lol. What BlakePries tells is 100% true.
Petition for Rob to hang a cat toy from the rear view mirror of the four rotor in memoriam of all of the car budget he spent on cat food.
pro tip, model you entire setup in fusion, then use that to see if your tool will mill into it. you could even model a large ring where you don't want the tool to go, so it wont crash into your fixturing. in the setup include it as the stock, so it shows up in the simulation. also your tool may have been pulling the material up, or the tool itself may have been getting pulled down out of the collet.
This project is a dream build bro. I’ve never seen anything this complex! Props
And this is why almost every one of my comments have the word "Genius" in them lol, I need to start using "mad scientist" a little more. Because you can't deny it, Rob is a rotary mad scientist and a Genius!!
Rob, do your self a favor and make a solid DOM sleeve to replace the crush sleeve. It's going to allow too much axial play of the pinion immediately after you launch, thus causing the diff to grenade.
11:52
if you can buy, HSS tools instead of carbide they are cheaper when you crash😂👍
"single step" or single block here on the first run and read the code BEFORE you run it.