Hi, do you have any advice for fixing air bubbles leaking through a pin hole sized area in a fresh epoxy resin repair on the nose? I haven’t glassed it yet, but when I drop a bit of water over it it still leaks air 🤔 can you advise?
Once you opened the ding area take a small amount of epoxy with microballone powder and with your finger seal the foam surface, once dry keep going normally- you will have no bubbles 💪🏽
just to clarify you could color match underneath the lamination with the spray paint and glass over? or in this case you could do it over top? Also, what kind of spray paint was for the color?
It was not possible to paint first ad the carbon is Black, also the color was on the top only. The spray paint was normal acrylic paint and over it matte clear coat 🤙🏼
Koby, I’d love your input (along with any other shapers) on a build I’m trying. I recently picked up some old FireWire Tomo Vader/Vangaurds for $50 each and get worried about the LFT construction being weak and brittle over time. Would there be any downside to me laying carbon fiber over the existing fiberglass? Would it be worth trying to delaminate and use the shape from scratch? Maybe even sanding down the original glass with 100-200 grit and then adding it? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Why not just buy a new board everyone is wondering? Material is cheap, and a new one is $900 usd.
First of all- experience and trying new things is always good, you will have to sand the board with 60grit and do a damm good job doing that making sure it is exposed and clean (wax, oils and more) You can lay carbon but the added weight will be significant, you will also need to think about the fin boxes (they will low under the carbon) so that area needs to be addressed , and a hot coat layer Sounds like a big job, delaminating is a hard thing to do and NOT worth the time unless this is a huge board and you are shaping a new smaller board out of it Good luck
@@kobymaymonsurfboards7320I figured it wouldn’t be too easy, but neither is spending near $1000 haha! Great idea on the 60 grit instead of 100! I’m thinking that I can sand down majority of the fiberglass (or epoxy coat) off the board to minimize the weight, while keeping its strong adherence to the foam. (I’m thinking like with cars how in many cases it’s best to paint on paint instead of bare metal) It’s an LFT board with smaller stringer and weighs quite a bit less actually than it’s FST variation. Overall the board is stupid light, I’ll have to do some more math on what the end weight would be. The pros of strength in my opinion would be worth it, considering I’ll be vacuum bagging it with epoxy as well. Will be sure to let you know how the process goes, weight added, and how long it takes. Appreciate the feedback!
כי הגלשן נושם, תחשוב שזה הפתח יציאה היחיד של האויר לצאת החוצה, הטריק זה לשים שכבה קטנה לאיטום ולחכות שכמעט מתיבש עד שזה ממש ממש מסטיק ולוודא שזה אטום ואז מעל למלא עד הסוף, ואז לא יהיו בועות, וגם להוסיף אבקת אירוסיל לחזק את התערובת עוזר (חוץ מהמיקרובלון)
![Surfboard Ding Repair | How To - Fix Buckled Board [Start to Finish]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1K-wHq_a2tk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Surfboard Ding Repair | How To - Fix Buckled Board [Start to Finish]](/img/tr.png)
Nice work, a ding repair takes much time🤙
True, but so nice when it is done 🤙🏼
What spray clear do you use? Looks money!
I use matte finish X2 spray- works great 🤙🏼
Hi, do you have any advice for fixing air bubbles leaking through a pin hole sized area in a fresh epoxy resin repair on the nose? I haven’t glassed it yet, but when I drop a bit of water over it it still leaks air 🤔 can you advise?
Once you opened the ding area take a small amount of epoxy with microballone powder and with your finger seal the foam surface, once dry keep going normally- you will have no bubbles 💪🏽
Great video. What would you charge for that repair?
In $, about 75$
just to clarify you could color match underneath the lamination with the spray paint and glass over? or in this case you could do it over top? Also, what kind of spray paint was for the color?
It was not possible to paint first ad the carbon is Black, also the color was on the top only. The spray paint was normal acrylic paint and over it matte clear coat 🤙🏼
Koby, I’d love your input (along with any other shapers) on a build I’m trying.
I recently picked up some old FireWire Tomo Vader/Vangaurds for $50 each and get worried about the LFT construction being weak and brittle over time.
Would there be any downside to me laying carbon fiber over the existing fiberglass? Would it be worth trying to delaminate and use the shape from scratch? Maybe even sanding down the original glass with 100-200 grit and then adding it?
Any thoughts would be appreciated! Why not just buy a new board everyone is wondering? Material is cheap, and a new one is $900 usd.
First of all- experience and trying new things is always good, you will have to sand the board with 60grit and do a damm good job doing that making sure it is exposed and clean (wax, oils and more)
You can lay carbon but the added weight will be significant, you will also need to think about the fin boxes (they will low under the carbon) so that area needs to be addressed , and a hot coat layer
Sounds like a big job, delaminating is a hard thing to do and NOT worth the time unless this is a huge board and you are shaping a new smaller board out of it
Good luck
@@kobymaymonsurfboards7320I figured it wouldn’t be too easy, but neither is spending near $1000 haha!
Great idea on the 60 grit instead of 100! I’m thinking that I can sand down majority of the fiberglass (or epoxy coat) off the board to minimize the weight, while keeping its strong adherence to the foam. (I’m thinking like with cars how in many cases it’s best to paint on paint instead of bare metal)
It’s an LFT board with smaller stringer and weighs quite a bit less actually than it’s FST variation. Overall the board is stupid light, I’ll have to do some more math on what the end weight would be.
The pros of strength in my opinion would be worth it, considering I’ll be vacuum bagging it with epoxy as well.
Will be sure to let you know how the process goes, weight added, and how long it takes. Appreciate the feedback!
Just for clarity, this is an EPS core? Is epoxy hardener a standard product?
Yes - this is an EPS core. Epoxy is my go-to for all fixes - PU and Epoxy.
Pretty good repair.. Maybe 2 x layers of carbon fibre would have mitigated the sand through on the deck. Other wise well done.
Weight is a big issue with Carbon Surfboard so I try to keep it minimal
Thanks mate 🤙🏼
היי קובי, אתה יודע למה כל הזמן נוצרות לי בועות אוויר בשלב בראשון של החומר לאחר הייבוש?
כי הגלשן נושם, תחשוב שזה הפתח יציאה היחיד של האויר לצאת החוצה, הטריק זה לשים שכבה קטנה לאיטום ולחכות שכמעט מתיבש עד שזה ממש ממש מסטיק ולוודא שזה אטום ואז מעל למלא עד הסוף, ואז לא יהיו בועות, וגם להוסיף אבקת אירוסיל לחזק את התערובת עוזר (חוץ מהמיקרובלון)
@@kobymaymonsurfboards7320 ואוו אנסה תודה רבה קובי ודרך אגב תמשיך להעלות סירטונים למה הפסקת?