That ignition control looks like a rebadged Fenwal IP module. You can put a new Stacon on that spark lead. Just strip it carefully. Also, you need a stacon crimp tool; they have both insulated and non-insulated spots for crimping the solderless terminals. Using the non-insulated section to crimp insulated stacons will actually compromise the connection. It will poke a hole through and allow moisture in and break the wire strands. Yes, the secondary of that spark coil is anywhere from 5K to 20K volts. It's basically a step-up transformer. It will knock the shit out of you.
I work on Modine PDP warehouse type heaters. That orange spark wire is notorious for shorting out. Doesn’t even need to rub completely through because the voltage is so high, the spark will jump and prevent it from lighting. That said, I don’t know that it would burn out the transformer, but the transformer is something that seems to go out frequently on Modine. I really wish they would put a heavier spark wire on from the factory.
Left it nice and clean, nice.... except the white low voltage wire touching the high voltage igniter wire you replaced, with what looks like a black low voltage wire.
you ought to explain the flame rectification through the ignition assembly. i believe you can put the burner ground in series with your meter to read the specified d/c milli amps. i also found a low voltage short giving me a false trip through the smoke detector
Severely doubt it's the ignition module. My money is on a shorting heater in the sequencer. I have several ATC fuseholders with male and female 1/4" tab crimps. Put them inline with items. When there is a short... just that fuse blows. EDIT: you can put your own crimp on the igniter wire. A short to ground on that wire won't short the 24v supply.
I have seen pump contactors burnt up from someone crimping with pliers on all connectors used in an rbi boiler. Creates a point for arcing and sparking if not crimped with proper tools. Thats why i dont use those 7-1 stripper, crimpers that are popular nowadays. Dedicated klein insulated/no insulated crimpers are the way
That ignition control looks like a rebadged Fenwal IP module. You can put a new Stacon on that spark lead. Just strip it carefully. Also, you need a stacon crimp tool; they have both insulated and non-insulated spots for crimping the solderless terminals. Using the non-insulated section to crimp insulated stacons will actually compromise the connection. It will poke a hole through and allow moisture in and break the wire strands. Yes, the secondary of that spark coil is anywhere from 5K to 20K volts. It's basically a step-up transformer. It will knock the shit out of you.
How did u determine those parts were faulty?
Great video. Good job and nice work. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend
@zekenzy6486 Thank you brother! Much appreciated. You too! 🔧⚡️🤙
Nice work Jumper Man.
@stevencossaboon3237 Thank you brother! 🔧⚡️🙏🤙
I work on Modine PDP warehouse type heaters. That orange spark wire is notorious for shorting out. Doesn’t even need to rub completely through because the voltage is so high, the spark will jump and prevent it from lighting. That said, I don’t know that it would burn out the transformer, but the transformer is something that seems to go out frequently on Modine. I really wish they would put a heavier spark wire on from the factory.
The problem is most likely the gas valve coil these days with the minimum amount of copper the manufacturers use for coils it is a problem alot
I heard my wake up alarm at 2:13
That's mine too 😂😂😂 It's was an alarm as a reminder to pay the parking meter within 10min haha thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️
First one here life is complete lol
@robertdavenport9095 Haha thank you! It is now complete 😂 Enjoy your weekend 🔧⚡️
@ I love the long videos. Keep up the great work. Enjoy your weekend too.
I really hate intermittent problems
@@StevenQingchengCao Oh man, me too! So tricky. Thanks for watching 🙏🔧⚡️🤙
God me too man. Its hard to catch and looks bad when something goes down right after I left but it was running when I was there lol
Left it nice and clean, nice.... except the white low voltage wire touching the high voltage igniter wire you replaced, with what looks like a black low voltage wire.
you ought to explain the flame rectification through the ignition assembly. i believe you can put the burner ground in series with your meter to read the specified d/c milli amps. i also found a low voltage short giving me a false trip through the smoke detector
Microamps
@@Blakethegoat yes, I mis spoke. you're correct
😻💚💜💚
@@ILoveKittys78 💜🔧⚡️
Severely doubt it's the ignition module. My money is on a shorting heater in the sequencer. I have several ATC fuseholders with male and female 1/4" tab crimps. Put them inline with items. When there is a short... just that fuse blows. EDIT: you can put your own crimp on the igniter wire. A short to ground on that wire won't short the 24v supply.
This is pretty sharp never thought of that. I’m stealing this
Ive heard that loose connections cause higher amps but i cant wrap my brain around how that happens. Anybody know?
I have seen pump contactors burnt up from someone crimping with pliers on all connectors used in an rbi boiler. Creates a point for arcing and sparking if not crimped with proper tools. Thats why i dont use those 7-1 stripper, crimpers that are popular nowadays. Dedicated klein insulated/no insulated crimpers are the way