Back in the day, overdrawn rests were popular because all we had was aluminum arrows . Shortening the arrow was obviously a way to shoot lighter spined shorter arrows for more speed. People would say you loose all the " forgiveness " in the bow by moving the pivot point back of the rest............what they found was with a short overdraw, they actually GAINED forgiveness ! This all comes down to the bows PIVOT POINT. For years that was thought to be the deep point on the grip . That was flawed thinking. That is true as long as there isn't a human hand against it , lol. As soon as you grab a bow and draw it back, the pivot point becomes your WRIST . The most forgiving arrow rest location will be right over your wrist in 90% of cases. This is one of the reasons why a low wrist grip is generally more consistent ......it moves the natural pivot point of the bow, the low point on the grip, and the introduced pivot point, the wrist, closer together . It's not magic, it's just physics . I like the new torque tuning step that more shooter are adding to their tuning setup . I've been using it for years , but I just locate the rest pivot point above my wrist . That is where most shooters will wind up after they tq tune. Good vid !
I wanna start out by saying that I really enjoy watching your videos and I think you have a lot more knowledge then your average archer. I don’t want this to be a discouraging comment but I would like to point out a few critical things that you should mention during this video (do to this be a more in depth accuracy tip) #1 just like everything else you must reproduce the same exact torque on your hand every single time you do this in order for it to work. #2 you should defiantly warn that doing this to an extreme can derail a bow. #3 say you are able to reproduce the same shot every time while doing this, then 20y shouldn’t be you go to range. It’s really dependent on personal skill level (if this did work in the way it’s supposed to I personally would rather have a distance where the groups where MUCH farther apart then just a couple of inches {at least 6 to 8 inches per .25in rest adjustments and work from there} to give me piece of mind that it isn’t in my head. And lastly #4 naturally the closer the rest is to the center of your grip is where torque has the least amount of affect on the shot. Think about your sight for instance, the farther away your sight is from the riser the more that any hand torque will move the pin out of line and cause left or rights the same apply to the rest due to moving the tip of the arrow out of line with the pin. Think about this: if you apply right hand torque, your pin will move right but the tip of your arrow on a rest will move left. The further back the rest goes the more out of line with the pin it will become.
Can you do a follow-up video of this doing torque tune by moving the sight instead of the rest? Also, can this be done with a hamskea hybrid hunter pro rest?
Would you do this with a hunting bow? I would think this could help mitigate some of the effects of adrenaline or not being in an ideal position to shoot.
I haven't messed with it much for a hunting bow. It's only going to help with a ¼" of impact here or there. Basically just helps you catch that line in a tournament. Not really something that is going to bring in an arrow 5 or 6"
Inside Out Precision Still a very interesting topic! Tuning is so vital for good broadhead flight. I feel like I learn something new every time I set my bow up for a new combination. Love your videos!
Hey I got a question Where should you have a target sitting in order to sight in your bow? On the ground or at around three to four feet of the ground or does it really matter? Thanks Great videos
Going to look for a hidden camera on my outdoor range, was trying to figure this out today.Never heard of this, self taught until I wounded an elk three yrs ago. I run a hamskea micro all the way forward. The new Vertix is very unforgiving, this plus a 85 %let off will help I hope. If not the Chill goes back to #1 and the vertix will be the back up. Thanks again.
How did you adjust timing on your rest? Also what effect does moving my sight give? I got it torque tuned but my rest is now up on my shelf and I'd like to move it back so I can use the cage that came with my hamskea drop away.
I’ve got an off topic spine question for you. In trad’ archery where the arrow needs to dodge around the riser, they want the spine vertical, so the highest flex is horizontal, and set their arrows up that way. For a compound bow, where there’s no need to dodge the riser and the natural flex direction seems to be vertical (though can’t remember where I heard that), should you align your spines horizontal, stiffening the arrow in the plane of flex?
Im having trouble with my fletching's hitting my hand on shots fifty yards and further. I have taken it to basspro shops but they have not been able to help. Any advise on what might help me here. I have never had this problem with other bows in the past. Thank you.
Kellen, is there any chance that you could talk about string stoppers? I mean at let down, does the string slightly touch the stop, or is there a little space in between? Sorry for OT :)
Is your Hamskea maxed out laterally to the left, (or in your case to the right) to get the factory recommended 13/16? Not sure if that’s a common thing with the Mathews bows due to the thick risers. Does Hamskea make a spacer or anything so I can get more adjustments to the left?
Limb driven drop aways can be tuned so the rest drops away sooner or later by changing where the string is mounted on the limb,is that similar to the way a target rest works
This might be a dumb question but im new to the archery scene. I have a pse stinger set ar 70# and my brother inlwa has a pse uprising set at 65# and i can not pull his back. Whats the difference making his so much harder to draw back? Mine is single cam his has two
Good video thanks..I shoot a Mathews trx 38 it's hits where I aim ,but I notice that the right scope housing is out of view ( about 2 or 3 mm) 1 5/8 the scope .. Any suggestions?
“If i torque my bow to the left, the impact will go to the left…” Seriously?? If you torque the bow to the left, your sight turns to the left. When aiming with that lefty sight, you will shoot to the right and not the left. That’s why you always turn a sight to the direction of the error. If your basics are allready incorrect … how can I trust this “knowledge”?
Back in the day, overdrawn rests were popular because all we had was aluminum arrows . Shortening the arrow was obviously a way to shoot lighter spined shorter arrows for more speed. People would say you loose all the " forgiveness " in the bow by moving the pivot point back of the rest............what they found was with a short overdraw, they actually GAINED forgiveness ! This all comes down to the bows PIVOT POINT. For years that was thought to be the deep point on the grip . That was flawed thinking. That is true as long as there isn't a human hand against it , lol. As soon as you grab a bow and draw it back, the pivot point becomes your WRIST . The most forgiving arrow rest location will be right over your wrist in 90% of cases. This is one of the reasons why a low wrist grip is generally more consistent ......it moves the natural pivot point of the bow, the low point on the grip, and the introduced pivot point, the wrist, closer together .
It's not magic, it's just physics .
I like the new torque tuning step that more shooter are adding to their tuning setup . I've been using it for years , but I just locate the rest pivot point above my wrist . That is where most shooters will wind up after they tq tune.
Good vid !
Finally a clear explanation, thanks for another awesome vid
Well explained, this is something most people don't know much about..
Awesome advice thanks so much
I wanna start out by saying that I really enjoy watching your videos and I think you have a lot more knowledge then your average archer. I don’t want this to be a discouraging comment but I would like to point out a few critical things that you should mention during this video (do to this be a more in depth accuracy tip) #1 just like everything else you must reproduce the same exact torque on your hand every single time you do this in order for it to work. #2 you should defiantly warn that doing this to an extreme can derail a bow. #3 say you are able to reproduce the same shot every time while doing this, then 20y shouldn’t be you go to range. It’s really dependent on personal skill level (if this did work in the way it’s supposed to I personally would rather have a distance where the groups where MUCH farther apart then just a couple of inches {at least 6 to 8 inches per .25in rest adjustments and work from there} to give me piece of mind that it isn’t in my head. And lastly #4 naturally the closer the rest is to the center of your grip is where torque has the least amount of affect on the shot. Think about your sight for instance, the farther away your sight is from the riser the more that any hand torque will move the pin out of line and cause left or rights the same apply to the rest due to moving the tip of the arrow out of line with the pin.
Think about this:
if you apply right hand torque, your pin will move right but the tip of your arrow on a rest will move left. The further back the rest goes the more out of line with the pin it will become.
Can you do a follow-up video of this doing torque tune by moving the sight instead of the rest? Also, can this be done with a hamskea hybrid hunter pro rest?
It’s equally as important for drop away rests and even whisker biscuits as it is for blade rests.
Not much you can do with a whisker biscuit… not enough adjustment in the mount
What distance do you recommend shooting this tuning technique at?
What rest would be able to do this and would be a good hunting rest
Nice I have been waiting for this video from someone. Thank you.
What sight do you have on that bow.
Do you recenter the pin when you torque the bow.
Would you do this with a hunting bow? I would think this could help mitigate some of the effects of adrenaline or not being in an ideal position to shoot.
I haven't messed with it much for a hunting bow. It's only going to help with a ¼" of impact here or there. Basically just helps you catch that line in a tournament. Not really something that is going to bring in an arrow 5 or 6"
Inside Out Precision Still a very interesting topic! Tuning is so vital for good broadhead flight. I feel like I learn something new every time I set my bow up for a new combination. Love your videos!
You can’t do that with the integrated rests. Correct?
Hey I got a question
Where should you have a target sitting in order to sight in your bow?
On the ground or at around three to four feet of the ground or does it really matter?
Thanks
Great videos
It doesn't really matter but I like to get it about chest level.
@ what distance would you say would be best to torque tune?
20yds
Oh wow! I figured it would be longer to show more.
Going to look for a hidden camera on my outdoor range, was trying to figure this out today.Never heard of this, self taught until I wounded an elk three yrs ago. I run a hamskea micro all the way forward. The new Vertix is very unforgiving, this plus a 85 %let off will help I hope. If not the Chill goes back to #1 and the vertix will be the back up. Thanks again.
How did you adjust timing on your rest? Also what effect does moving my sight give? I got it torque tuned but my rest is now up on my shelf and I'd like to move it back so I can use the cage that came with my hamskea drop away.
Will rest timing also affect torque tuning? If moving the rest back helps would it have the same affect to have the rest drop away faster?
I’ve got an off topic spine question for you. In trad’ archery where the arrow needs to dodge around the riser, they want the spine vertical, so the highest flex is horizontal, and set their arrows up that way. For a compound bow, where there’s no need to dodge the riser and the natural flex direction seems to be vertical (though can’t remember where I heard that), should you align your spines horizontal, stiffening the arrow in the plane of flex?
I believe it is done in the vertical position.
@@5jjt thanks
Im having trouble with my fletching's hitting my hand on shots fifty yards and further. I have taken it to basspro shops but they have not been able to help. Any advise on what might help me here. I have never had this problem with other bows in the past. Thank you.
Maybe boxing 101 should I ask a top 3D pro such as Levi Morgan if torque tuning is relevant. This is a video about tuning, not form.
Kellen, is there any chance that you could talk about string stoppers? I mean at let down, does the string slightly touch the stop, or is there a little space in between?
Sorry for OT :)
The factory recommends a credit cards width between the string and stopper.
Is your Hamskea maxed out laterally to the left, (or in your case to the right) to get the factory recommended 13/16? Not sure if that’s a common thing with the Mathews bows due to the thick risers. Does Hamskea make a spacer or anything so I can get more adjustments to the left?
Yeah you can take out the set screw and move the whole thing further left.
Awesome thanks
Limb driven drop aways can be tuned so the rest drops away sooner or later by changing where the string is mounted on the limb,is that similar to the way a target rest works
Not really, the most common target rest is blade style rest. They don't fall away but they have minimal contact with the arrow.
This might be a dumb question but im new to the archery scene. I have a pse stinger set ar 70# and my brother inlwa has a pse uprising set at 65# and i can not pull his back. Whats the difference making his so much harder to draw back? Mine is single cam his has two
Single cams have much easier draw cycle. They roll in and out of peak weight much smoother. Because of that, they are much slower.
Seen a comment about this being best way to derail string is this a risk?
I mean yeah if you torque the hell out of it. It's just a little bit though. Come on people, common sense!!!
Good video thanks..I shoot a Mathews trx 38 it's hits where I aim
,but I notice that the right scope housing is out of view ( about 2 or 3 mm) 1 5/8 the scope .. Any suggestions?
Hmm is your rest in center shot?
@@InsideOutPrecision how can I measured ? ...I did walk back tuning at 20 and 40 yards and its perfect..did not paper tune
Can you do this with a QAD rest ? that's what's on my Triax
You can't. Doesn't move far enough back. It's hard to do with anything except a blade style rest. Pretty much for target bows only.
Inside Out Precision kinda what I thought from looking at it but far from an expert so I thought I’d ask thanks for the quick reply
I’m doing this because I use a whisker biscuit
Not worth the time if your using a whisker biscuit. Cant move it far enough back.
A guy told me he torque tunes by sliding his sight in have you ever heard of that..?
Yeah if you have a long enough dovetail you can do that as well
Thank you for letting me know...
“If i torque my bow to the left, the impact will go to the left…”
Seriously??
If you torque the bow to the left, your sight turns to the left. When aiming with that lefty sight, you will shoot to the right and not the left.
That’s why you always turn a sight to the direction of the error.
If your basics are allready incorrect … how can I trust this “knowledge”?
We’re taking about the rest, not the sight