Interesting. I've never seen that happen, but the mechanics I worked with when I was kid taught me to always weld the pick up to the pump. 25+ years later I finally see why.!
my moroso pickup has a bracket on it to bolt it to the oil pump housing. Still a good idea to weld it, I've seen drag racers weld the bolts to the housing so nothing can come apart.
Always weld them up where the pickup tube goes into the housing. Pontiacs are famous for vibrating that tube loose. When it goes to the bottom of the pan, it’s over. You’re walking in under 15 seconds. Then building a motor if the car hasn’t been stolen before the wrecker could get it. Weld them up! Every time! Not “tacked” or “spot welded”. Those will vibrate off and send frag through the motor. Weld it up. As far around as you can! Put an actual bead on it!
I built and raced small block chevy engines for 20 years. I always installed the pickup by cleaning the pump and pickup and coating the pickup tube with red locktite (bearing and sleeve retainer). Never had one move or come loose.
My trucks doing the same exact thing I’m gonna check that tomorrow. Thank you so much.!!!!!!!!4.3 2001 Chevy express. It’s doing the same exact thing, the same exact thing, the same exact thing!!!!!!
@@markmiller8853 mine developed a rod knock. I drop the oil pan change the rod bearings and installed a high flow oil pump. did the same thing for the first 3000 miles and now it holds just high enough that the oil light doesn't come on so I guess it's a win.
I have been driven to your video by chance , symptoms are exactly to what I have now on my SBC engine , and intended to order new oil pump but you opened my eye to inspect before losing money thanks man lot
That's why on race and performance engines the pickup either has a support bracket or is tack welded, it's not an uncommon issue. The pressure drops because it loses prime at lower speeds due to air getting around the pickup. The pickup also has probably turned so it is too close to the pan creating a flow issue that adds to the problem at idle.
More than one Small block Chevy engine has met its early demise because of this very issue . I used to check & set the pickup to bottom of oil Pan clearance with some modeling clay during mock-up whenever rebuilding one & once set up where I wanted it would mark the location on pickup / pump & remove pump carefully & braze pickup tube to pump body for this very reason . Another alternative is to use Red lock-tite on the tube to pump , but only if all parts are washed with brake parts cleaner to remove all traces of oil first & have a pretty tight fit to begin with . Good catch here , & hopefully it’s still running for ya .
Hey Kenny thanks for the video....This is not uncommon....I've seen this with a bunch of SBC 's over the years.....We even had one in the fleet that did not want to prime after oil changes. We had to plug the PCV, pull off the oil cap and use an air nozzle with a rag to seal around it and pressurize the crankcase, then another tech would start the engine. It was actually OK until the next oil change....eventually when we got time, the pan was pulled and the pickup to pump connection was repaired....lots of fun!! Keep up the good work, thanks again.
That sounds like a pretty ingenious idea to get the pump to get a grip on the oil! LOL 🤣 I suppose you want to be careful and not put too much pressure and blow out gaskets and seals all over the place. Good, and fairly quick method of getting it to prime. 👍 Like when I have siphoned gas, rather than risking a mouthful of gas, I wrap a rag around the hose and blow in it. The ABS tank expands and helps in pushing the gas through the hose to start siphoning. A damp rag works best to get a good seal.👍👌
I had one the other way from a accident it made so much oil pressure it blew the rear main seal out of a 350 TBI engine the guy is right put a tack weld on it thank you for your videos and have a blessed day
How exactly does that happen? I’m dealing with a 92 350 that’s blowing out filter seals!!! Could this be the cause? I understand 0 psi but how does it build excessive pressure? This one has a filter adapter but no cooler. And no there was not a leftover seal stuck in between. Happened outta the blue… but 2x in a row!
I had a 326 Pontiac do what you described. It was an original, one owner car, and when it was again driven regularly (with fresh oil changes), the light sludge took out the cam bearings. On tear down all else was fine and within spec.
As a retired dealership tech, this was my first guess. Weld the tube to the pump. A couple of tacks every 90 degrees will do the trick. Use a tapered punch to enlarge the end of the tube so it has to be "helped" into position.
I bought a used engine years ago and changed the oil pan gasket and found the pick up tube laying in the bottom of the oil pan before had the same oil pressure problems your talking about..
I use loc-tite sleeve retainer (Green) and I spot weld it as I want a great seal. Not all require loc-tite, if they press in hard enough. Some aftermarket pick-ups for aftermarket pans don't press-fit tightly, hence the sleeve retainer loc-tite. Great find and you did a good job diagnosing the unusual issue.
Interesting little problem, and confined to that pickup tube to pump body mating. With higher rpms, the pump is pulling enough to draw the tube into the pump body, and _voilà!_ Acceptable oil pressure. But at idle, the pump draw is low enough so as to allow that pickup tube/pump body joint to relax, and any oil drawn in is aerated. No pressure. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I know this is late but been thru this a few times with Gen 1 SBC. Pioneer 839061 Oil Pump Screen Fastener if this is a 5/8" pick up and not a 3/4" pickup is the way to go. Use thread locker on the bolts.
I had a Silverado 1500 pickup with a 4.3L in it. With 10K miles, I noticed the oil pressure was fine until I hit the brakes hard. The pressure would drop to zero, then come back up. The dealer pulled off the pan and found the same exact thing except the tube had pulled out of the hole. They fixed it. They welded the tub to the body. Never had happen again. Bought 5.3L ever since.
There's supposed to be an O ring on that pickup tube, I wonder where it went. I've heard that those O rings can dry and crack. As I recall there was a TSB on some of the chev trucks describing a poor O ring design that was changed. As you say, the pickup tube works like a straw, so if even a tiny leak above the level of the oil will allow air in, the pump can't work properly. Great case.
On a small block Chevy? No oring - that one is a press fit. You must believe this is an LS style engine. It is obviously an old school SBC - the newer style with the roller lifters.
Yes it's a 4.3 a Chevy 350 w 2 cylinders cut off no o ring a lot of guys will tack them but the factory didn't another trick it to egg shape it slightly and then tap it in and that will hold it in place .. I agree you must be mistaken in the L. S . Engines have an o ring on the long pick up tube that runs from the front of the engine where the oil pump is to the rear sump and after a couple hundred thousand miles will often fail giving you low oil pressure and once the o ring is replaced your good for a couple hundred thousand more miles ... And even then if you take it apart you can still see the cross hatch on the cylinder walls ..
O ring would be on a pickup tube on a ls series engine with the front mounted crank driven oil pump and pickup tube but this engine is earlier than ls. This is old style distributor driven pump. That pickup tube would be just press fit and should be much tighter than that.
Yup tack welding the pickup to the pump is old school insurance that has been a good way to keep it in place and pickup oil as well as keep it from letting air into the system! 😎👍
Yes. This is a known problem with those. Braze or weld that pickup tube on there. It should be hard as heck to put that tube in the pump. If it's not, make it that way. The oil pressure falling off the way it did was because when the engine is off, the oil level is high. You start it and the oil in the pan drops below where the pump and sump tube meet, and it starts sucking air. Seal that up, and you're good.
You can put a Mechanical gates on the front engine port to get a different Data point. I had a similar issue, and it seemed to be resolved by simply replacing the oil filter. The oil filter is actually between the front engine port in rear engine oil port. So it's possible they're sludge built up in there. I run my Chevy With a permanent oil gauge on the front port undred the hood
For high oil pressure, put a 2wd pick up tube and 2wd oil pan. I did that on a blazer I had and it ran 75 psi all the time. That same engine is now on its 3rd vehicle, s10. It has close to 400k miles and still running high oil pressure. Everyone has told me it's not a good thing to have that much oil pressure,but I can't believe that when the engine is outlasting the trucks I put it in.
Thank You sir for this informative video. I am a BIG FAN of the Chevrolet 4.3 liter V6. How can you go wrong with the 350’s baby brother. I have seen mechanics in the past put a spot weld on the oil pump/pickup tube during an engine rebuild just to solve that future problem. Again, Thank You for your time and effort to bring these small but important tips to the UA-cam communities attention. And by the way, nice looking shop. Keep up the good videos. Have A Productive Day! 🛻🚚🚛
Once you've set the oil pan to pickup clearance, drop the pump, spot weld the pickup in place to the pump, then reinstall it. Dropping the pump, or having the engine out, keeps you from trying to isolate all the electronics from the welder.
Never seen an oring on a chevy oil pump pickup tube, the relief valve is stuck, I've only used big block pumps on all small block, big blocks and V6s....
I love your video's my brother!! I am from the Autobody side of things. I am sure you have seen impact scenerio's from manufacturers and the Insurance industry. A.S.E. and ICAR.too. When something is involved in an impact, the kenetic energy is something that will blow your mind. And remember the vehicles passinger compartment is made to absorb this energy to protect the occupants. And rightfully so!! I have seen parts tweeked and out round or caliber that it will just blow your mind. It is very important to quiz the salvage yards and insurance info to find out what these parts have been involved in. I am specifically talking about inside a motor, Trans, Axle housing, etc.. stuff that you can not physically see individual parts inside!! Be safe everbody!! Peace and prosperity to all of you!! Montana Rick.
I am in the process of replacing the pan gasket on my 2002 4WD Sonoma. OMG, I had no idea how much stuff I'd have to remove to get the pan down. Did the same thing you did. I had to take upper control arm off driver side so I could barely get a socket on the upper diff mounting nut. Not a fun job. I will def check my pickup up tube and maybe give it a couple of zaps with my welder to keep it firmly connected.
I tig braze the tube in. Also all the pickups I have put on pumps are press fit. I remove the bypass spring before any tig brazing is done. I also make a sheet metal bracket that bolts to the pump and weld it to the tube. Just did this on a 6.2 diesel.
It didn't necessarily have to be sucking air. If you've ever watched video of a boat prop, totally submerged cavitate, it will produce bubbles underwater with no access to an air source. You just have to move the fluid faster than it is capable of, or introduce a secondary stream of fluid. At Idle, the pump was probably not moving enough oil to lower the oil level for it to suck air, but the pump was probably pulling enough suction to pull oil around the pick up tube (the second stream). That could have generated "frothy" oil, which would hold no pressure, because the air in the bubbles would compress more readily than the oil itself. Cavitation is the bane of anything hydraulic, and it has been known to happen in sealed hydraulic systems, resulting in anything from weak hydraulics to destroyed pumps.
boat propeller cavitation is different than just frothy oil in an engine. on boat propeller it has very high pressure and it makes the water actually boil even erodes away surface of propeller on high powered boats
@@ranger178 in any "hydraulic" scenario where you are moving fluid cavitation is possible. The only prerequisite is that the mechanical influence be greater than the fluids ability to move.
Same problem here with my 1994 chevy truck 5.7 . Now this is my second motor and doing the same thing. Oil pressure drops down to the red when hot and check engine light comes on. Changed sending unit several times on both motors and oil pump on the engine i have now. Good oil pressure when hot and when it drops sometimes it jumps up and down . I am wondering if it could be Elect when wires get hot. What a Headache .
I've heard so many people say the pickups fall off or don't seal right, etc. I've built many sbc and never once had a problem. I don't weld them or anything. Done them in 4x4s, drag cars, dirt cars, street cars. Even a couple 4.3l and just never had that bad luck, I guess. I also am selective and test fit as well as clearance check. That's a weird issue though, I'll say that.
Yeah I’ve done at least a hundred long block. It only makes common sense to sure the pick up Is tight and at the right height. That’s the same symptoms the ls motors have when the o-ring gets hard and flat. Just my two pennies.
@@majestic7117 yeah it's a solid idea and I'm not opposed to tacking the pickup in place. I've just never once had an issue and built motors from almost all domestic makes and models. Even some of the new gen engines and it's just never been an issue for me
Your video posted after this discuss the actual oil fill level in the pan and how it covers the pump and no need for priming. The oil level also covers the pickup tube interface, so siphoning air is not the cause of loss of oil pressure with proper oIl fill level. So, what did you find was the problem with oil pressure dropout? I did not see any subsequent videos covering your findings.
Wow. I have a 96 chevy 1500 pick up and have the same issue now I have something else to try. Good pressure at start up when cold no pressure or.very little when hot
while u have it apart weld that pick up tube on, its common to come apart and take out the engine. This is why hot rodders ect always weld om on the pick up tubes
Reman - Who ever removed the screen from the old pump distorted the (knock in ) press fit of the tube going into the pump or by turning the screen to the proper angle after installing the screen . Who ever installed that screen should have known that was not tight enough and a problem that can destroy the engine , should have got a new screen . Ive seen people years ago rough up the tube (burs )so it would fit tighter in the pump , I guess they didnt think about it sucking air because it wasnt sealing correctly . Other companies bolt the screen to the pump so this doesnt happen . And NO their is not a o`ring on the tube , its a press type fit .
New pump, New screen installed correctly, pickup screen requires a specific tool for installation to the pump, have correct pickup for and adjustment to the oil pan to be used, and correctly tack welded (not to getting it to hot, or welding any debris) check everything before final assembly! SB Chevy oiling is critically important to life expectancy. Always New OEM Delco stock parts! GM already invested millions researching V-8 oiling systems 🙂 GBU
@@ChevyCoco All you have to do is , what ever spacing you want the pickup screen off the bottom of the oil pan , just start the screen in the pump slightly and slightly tilted up toward the pan , lay something the thickness you want it off the bottom > on the bottom of the screen , and then set the oil pan down in place it will push the screen down in the position where it belongs , then remove the pan put on some red loctite and knock the screen into the pump up against the stop . I have never tore down a GM engine with the screen tack welded to the pump..........Its not like a new screen is that expensive .
@@davecramer9725 Go ahead and weld the freeze plugs , bearing races and etc.. also while your at it , all of which are not necessary when done correctly .......Then call GM and tell them you know more about it than they do ...........
Thourally clean the outside of the pick up tube, and the inside of the receiving hole for the tube. Run a small bead of JB Weld around the tube just infront of the buldge on the pipe. Set in place. Allow to cure. Should be good.
Nobody in their right mind would use JB Weld to secure a press fit oil pump pitch up tube. Either the tube gets replaces or you swedge the tube to fit securely. Then tack Weld it onto the pump.
The O-ring seal that goes into the oil pump from the pickup tube is a known problem as is the oil pressure relief valve right above the oil filter on them. I've seen people actually take the oil pressure relief valve off of the oil pan and replace it with a M 14 by 1.5 oil drain plug with Teflon tape on it.
It's actually common for this. A reason for the tack weld is a must. If you don't have a welder, use a little bit of JB Weld on it. Just make sure the surface is cleaned with no oil so it sticks.
thats why i always weld a bracket on the tube and bolt it to the pump and i also epoxy the tube in the pump , been doin this since the 70s never had a problem
I had a 4.3 that would do something very similar. Ended up having a rear cam bearing spun in block. No noises but it would just drop off after got hot. Put shop air in sending unit tube with intake off and sure enough you could see it bubbling between bearing and block.
Years ago I had a 262 V8 out of a Monza that lost oil pressure on me . Shut it down and coasted to my girlfriend's place . Went to leave it had oil pressure , WTF ? It had split the rear cam bearing . 43 years later I have never seen it again .
Well its press fit i install them with a special tool thats off set to hammer it home i have both 1.2 inch and 3.4 available from melling very nice and easy to install p.u
Older Chevys relied on an interference from it, and a lot of builders brazed or welded the pickup to the pump. I’d go for brazing myself, but a lot of engines ran right without that.
1997 Honda Accord struck a deer. The impact was enough to break the windshield washer nozzle! But if the pickup tube was still in the pump, but loose, may not be from the impact.
I have a 2013 f-150 3.7 naturally aspirated, 102000 miles, its runs great has lots of power, but once its warmer 20+ mins of running if you come to a stop and put it in park it has a roughness it''ll be like smooth then every like second 2 it'll stumble then smooth then stumble, in drive at idle it is so smooth you cant tell its running but if you put in park smooth then miss,smooth then miss, I've had it to ford many times, they ran injector cleaner, and replaced spark plugs, smoked the intake for intake leaks couldn't find anything ive done a ton of maintenance and the fluids are good new air filter, new mass air flow sensor just bugs me a lot but they say they can fill it but can't find anything. they tested fuel pressure and which was good and did a power balance and said its normal, but i've been in other trucks and the idle is super smooth in park or in drive with the break on. so just wondering if you had any ideas
I would take the spring out of the oil pump and tack weld the pick up and after it cools put the spring back in but add one small washer to the end of spring for just a little added pressure but as long as you’re already in there I’d take the pump out and apart and blue print it.check the clearances and sand flat on a piece emery paper on a piece of plexiglass to make sure it’s a flat surface put together make sure it spins freely before reinstalling and you’re golden.there’s not much else that can be wrong with an oil pump.they don’t usually spin that free without the extra care.
generally if the pump is replaced...they can come without the pick up installed... I used to braze the pick up in place...also...to adjust the level of the pick up from the bottom of the pan...I shot for a 1/4in clearance... used play-doh on top of the pick up... squished it with the pan to check my clearance
Lucky that didn't fall out while running down the road. I had a 1997 Jeep with a 2.5 and 200k miles that would do the exact same thing. The pan on it was actually easy to pull so it wasn't quite the PIA as a pan on a 4.3 in a 4x4 is. The new pump fixed it. But I bet you are right on your application, the pump was probably OK, just the pickup tube drawing air when it got warm and at low rpms.
Lyle makes a oil pump pick up tube sweging driver kit that comes with 14 different drivers....unfortunately, you also need the Lyle oil pump pick up tube installing kit
Check the pressure by pass on the oil pump. Ive seen them stick with a piece of debris, holding it open. It'll make pressure still, but it'll be all over the map. When the volume of the pump comes up and loads the system, pressure is fine. But if the by pass piston is stuck, you rely on the volume of the pump at low rpm to produce pressure and if, like you surmised originally if the oil is aerated/foamy at all, you wont have jack for pressure. Especially if the pick up tube is sucking air too.
Seems like it just sucks air at idle. Up the RPM and it sucks the pickup tight and provides good pressure. I’ve seen the same thing on fuel systems with a mechanical pump. Where the hose connects to the metal tank outlet it rots around the bead roll. When idling it sucks air and carb runs dry, but if you stay on the throttle it keeps going. That was tricky to find too.
1999 chevy tahoe 4wd 5.7 v8 350. when i was installing my rebuilt, i had to measure the distance of that pick up tube, i had my brother weld it to the pump. One problem i am having though is my oil psi drops when engine is hot but only at idle or in park, I had a leak in the rear main seal which was installed backword, and when i was installing the transmission together i broke the oil pressure sensor on the top of the engine. I installed a new one and was noticing the said problem. Im thinking it might be my oil cooler adapter, that when it gets hot and the engine is at high rpm its sending oil to the intercoller or something like that. normal psi when starting and cold is 40, driving at 30-60mph when hot is 35ish, and complete stop or warm and idle is below 10.
I just did this job... first for me... I did NOT have to take the front diff or the rack off... took the starter off but realized I didnt need to...just removed the cross member, 2 nuts and 2 nutted bolts from the front axle. enough room to remove the pan... YT Universtiy!
Years ago I had a 82 Volvo DL, thanks to a previous owner the engine had a bad case of piston slap so I pulled it and sent it to the machine shop for a rebuild. After I reinstalled it, I'd get a flashing oil pressure light at idle. I pulled the pan and found the idiot machine shop had put an older style oil pump in it but had not changed the pickup tube to match, it caused an o-ring to blow out. I had the old oil pump, I inspected it and found it to be in great shape, I put that in which solved the problem.
I have an 02' Blazer ZR2. Can't get to the oil pump or pan off without pulling the engine. It's been very well taken care of & has 300k miles on her. I deleted the oil cooler lines & my pressure went up but at idle it drops below the 1/2 mark on the gauge. Then when I start going it goes back up past the 1/2 way mark on gauge. With new oil it stays at 1/2 or higher all the time. Plus it depends on outside temp & I'm in hot area here South of Houston.
This is happening to my ‘67 mustang with the 200ci just got finished putting new rod bearings and mains in. Didn’t have to do the rings since the motor has 22k miles on it and has good compression. Everytime I drive it when it’s under operating temperature my oil psi stays at 40psi which is good. But when it gets hot (to operating temp) it drops to 20psi and when I brake at a stop light it drops all the way down to 0psi and when I made the complete stop it jumps back to 20psi. I’m hoping this is my issue because this project was very time consuming and they barley make parts for my original engine anymore
That sounds like it's simply low on oil when braking the oil sloshes to the front of the pan the pump sucks air for a few seconds then when you stop the oil goes back to original level and it picks it back up again or another thing to check is the oil pump drive that runs off of the distributor on some ford's they had issues w them slipping good luck w it ..
My 305 pick up screen did fall and screwed up some rod bearing i did a complete overhaul cam and bearing too and at a idol its 10 psi and thats with a high volume pump got 700 miles on it now highway speed i get 45 psi
I might have to do this with my truck, stock oil pump, I do lots of off-roading though and I've noticed my oil pressure is running at like 10PSI on hot idle, I am using high flow rate K&N filters so maybe that has something to do with it. I also plan on putting a higher flow rate pump in there while I'm at it since I *really* like pressing the gas pedal. However, mine never goes to zero, if that happened I'd be immediately doing this mod.
You may want to make sure that it's not the oil filter gasket. You may have double gasketed. Or there may be a plastic on the oil filter. I knocked a round pin through mine it is a expanding pin never had any problem with it after that
The drop in negative pressure at idle would be enough to allow air into the oil feed causing the pump to cavitate at idle...and no oil pressure... You're right. Shocking mechanical design when you think it could wreck the entire engine potentially....🤔😳😏😏😏🇬🇧...Maybe it's a GM sales drive?
Not so shocking, it's a chevy remember. This is my 2nd s10. I've had a LOT of Fords. Never have a problem like this.... This thing is hard as hell to work on too. Like he said, the oil sending unit is a rean pain in the ass, and the oil pan....OMG. Removing the entire front wheel hubs AND the frond Diff is insane. Just for an oil pan. I have a spark plug I can't remove because the steering column is blocking it. I don't know if that plug has ever been changed in 150k miles. I can't trust a shop won't just skip it either. No knuckles or bolts visible for removing the steering column shaft either. I see no way to change that damn plug. Stupid GMC/chevy garbage. Anyone want to buy a clean 1995 sonoma 4x4 extend cab with 150k miles?
Those engines For some reason have always had oil pump problems the 43 and the 57 I think At 1 time the dealer even said there was ATS P about using 3M roll off pads to Being gaskets was the problem but then they used those plastic ones with the same abrasive basically. I think just put in a good mellings oil pump And either attack well or use sleeve retainer or even some good right stuff silicone on the oil pump pick up Problem fixed
I'm 70 years old and learned 50yrs ago that a SBC that lasted 100mi was a really good one. Reason being where I live the roads are really crooked and unless you dam near stop to go around every curve the oil will climb up the side of the oil pan and the pickup is sucking air bearings don't last long that way. I have never encountered any other engine that does that. So the lesson is if you live in the mountains and have twisting roads stay away from small block Chevrolet engines.
Interesting. I've never seen that happen, but the mechanics I worked with when I was kid taught me to always weld the pick up to the pump. 25+ years later I finally see why.!
Welding the pickup tube to the pump is a must on small blocks and big blocks
Yep iv always done that on everyone I've ever done. Not one has come loose
my moroso pickup has a bracket on it to bolt it to the oil pump housing. Still a good idea to weld it, I've seen drag racers weld the bolts to the housing so nothing can come apart.
Always weld them up where the pickup tube goes into the housing. Pontiacs are famous for vibrating that tube loose. When it goes to the bottom of the pan, it’s over. You’re walking in under 15 seconds. Then building a motor if the car hasn’t been stolen before the wrecker could get it. Weld them up! Every time! Not “tacked” or “spot welded”. Those will vibrate off and send frag through the motor. Weld it up. As far around as you can! Put an actual bead on it!
Yep, can’t believe he made a video. We all know this!
Definitely throw a few tack welds on the pickup!
I built and raced small block chevy engines for 20 years. I always installed the pickup by cleaning the pump and pickup and coating the pickup tube with red locktite (bearing and sleeve retainer). Never had one move or come loose.
Indian Head it! LOL 🤣 The shellac sealant. I've used on brass freeze plugs then stake in with a chisel in 4 places.
My trucks doing the same exact thing I’m gonna check that tomorrow. Thank you so much.!!!!!!!!4.3 2001 Chevy express. It’s doing the same exact thing, the same exact thing, the same exact thing!!!!!!
@@markmiller8853 mine developed a rod knock. I drop the oil pan change the rod bearings and installed a high flow oil pump. did the same thing for the first 3000 miles and now it holds just high enough that the oil light doesn't come on so I guess it's a win.
Old race car folks used to weld or braze the pickup tubes on so they would not do that
I have been driven to your video by chance ,
symptoms are exactly to what I have now on my SBC engine , and intended to order new oil pump but you opened my eye to inspect before losing money thanks man lot
That's why on race and performance engines the pickup either has a support bracket or is tack welded, it's not an uncommon issue.
The pressure drops because it loses prime at lower speeds due to air getting around the pickup. The pickup also has probably turned so it is too close to the pan creating a flow issue that adds to the problem at idle.
More than one Small block Chevy engine has met its early demise because of this very issue . I used to check & set the pickup to bottom of oil Pan clearance with some modeling clay during mock-up whenever rebuilding one & once set up where I wanted it would mark the location on pickup / pump & remove pump carefully & braze pickup tube to pump body for this very reason . Another alternative is to use Red lock-tite on the tube to pump , but only if all parts are washed with brake parts cleaner to remove all traces of oil first & have a pretty tight fit to begin with . Good catch here , & hopefully it’s still running for ya .
Thank you for saving me typing this out. Was taught to do this when I was a wee boy watching the mechanics.
You are werry good mechanic buddy great explanation and work you do thanks i werry appreciate not to many mechanics like you 👍
Glad you found it. Thanks for sharing. I have never witnessed that happen but always tack the pickup when I find one not done. Good save
Hey Kenny thanks for the video....This is not uncommon....I've seen this with a bunch of SBC 's over the years.....We even had one in the fleet that did not want to prime after oil changes. We had to plug the PCV, pull off the oil cap and use an air nozzle with a rag to seal around it and pressurize the crankcase, then another tech would start the engine. It was actually OK until the next oil change....eventually when we got time, the pan was pulled and the pickup to pump connection was repaired....lots of fun!! Keep up the good work, thanks again.
That sounds like a pretty ingenious idea to get the pump to get a grip on the oil! LOL 🤣 I suppose you want to be careful and not put too much pressure and blow out gaskets and seals all over the place. Good, and fairly quick method of getting it to prime. 👍 Like when I have siphoned gas, rather than risking a mouthful of gas, I wrap a rag around the hose and blow in it. The ABS tank expands and helps in pushing the gas through the hose to start siphoning. A damp rag works best to get a good seal.👍👌
I had one the other way from a accident it made so much oil pressure it blew the rear main seal out of a 350 TBI engine the guy is right put a tack weld on it thank you for your videos and have a blessed day
Oil pressure blow out the rear main??? Doesn't seem possible to me.
How exactly does that happen? I’m dealing with a 92 350 that’s blowing out filter seals!!! Could this be the cause? I understand 0 psi but how does it build excessive pressure? This one has a filter adapter but no cooler. And no there was not a leftover seal stuck in between. Happened outta the blue… but 2x in a row!
I had a 326 Pontiac do what you described. It was an original, one owner car, and when it was again driven regularly (with fresh oil changes), the light sludge took out the cam bearings. On tear down all else was fine and within spec.
As a retired dealership tech, this was my first guess. Weld the tube to the pump. A couple of tacks every 90 degrees will do the trick. Use a tapered punch to enlarge the end of the tube so it has to be "helped" into position.
I bought a used engine years ago and changed the oil pan gasket and found the pick up tube laying in the bottom of the oil pan before had the same oil pressure problems your talking about..
I use loc-tite sleeve retainer (Green) and I spot weld it as I want a great seal. Not all require loc-tite, if they press in hard enough. Some aftermarket pick-ups for aftermarket pans don't press-fit tightly, hence the sleeve retainer loc-tite. Great find and you did a good job diagnosing the unusual issue.
Interesting little problem, and confined to that pickup tube to pump body mating. With higher rpms, the pump is pulling enough to draw the tube into the pump body, and _voilà!_ Acceptable oil pressure. But at idle, the pump draw is low enough so as to allow that pickup tube/pump body joint to relax, and any oil drawn in is aerated. No pressure.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
CSI - Oil Pump Division - These are the stories from the pan .....😊👍
@@marccampbellsr1085Yes I agree . Ever got a soda and the straw had a crack in it . Not getting much , same thing .
I know this is late but been thru this a few times with Gen 1 SBC. Pioneer 839061 Oil Pump Screen Fastener if this is a 5/8" pick up and not a 3/4" pickup is the way to go. Use thread locker on the bolts.
I had a Silverado 1500 pickup with a 4.3L in it. With 10K miles, I noticed the oil pressure was fine until I hit the brakes hard. The pressure would drop to zero, then come back up. The dealer pulled off the pan and found the same exact thing except the tube had pulled out of the hole. They fixed it. They welded the tub to the body. Never had happen again. Bought 5.3L ever since.
There's supposed to be an O ring on that pickup tube, I wonder where it went. I've heard that those O rings can dry and crack. As I recall there was a TSB on some of the chev trucks describing a poor O ring design that was changed. As you say, the pickup tube works like a straw, so if even a tiny leak above the level of the oil will allow air in, the pump can't work properly. Great case.
On a small block Chevy? No oring - that one is a press fit. You must believe this is an LS style engine. It is obviously an old school SBC - the newer style with the roller lifters.
@@PapawCulbersoncorrect there is no o ring it's just a press fot
Yes it's a 4.3 a Chevy 350 w 2 cylinders cut off no o ring a lot of guys will tack them but the factory didn't another trick it to egg shape it slightly and then tap it in and that will hold it in place .. I agree you must be mistaken in the L. S . Engines have an o ring on the long pick up tube that runs from the front of the engine where the oil pump is to the rear sump and after a couple hundred thousand miles will often fail giving you low oil pressure and once the o ring is replaced your good for a couple hundred thousand more miles ... And even then if you take it apart you can still see the cross hatch on the cylinder walls ..
O ring would be on a pickup tube on a ls series engine with the front mounted crank driven oil pump and pickup tube but this engine is earlier than ls. This is old style distributor driven pump. That pickup tube would be just press fit and should be much tighter than that.
Never an o-ring.
Change the O ring on the dipstick while you have the oil pan off. It will fix your problem.
Excellent save!!
Tack weld the pick up tube to the pump body on both sides! Good insurance…
Done !!
Tack weld jeez that sounds rough..O ring perhaps we need a good seal dont we ?
ive heard that welding it can ruin the oil bypass spring in the pump.. how do you get around this, do u have to remove the spring? if so how.
@@dave6199 you know nothing. Go read a book.
Yup tack welding the pickup to the pump is old school insurance that has been a good way to keep it in place and pickup oil as well as keep it from letting air into the system! 😎👍
I JB Weld my pump pick up 15 years ago and still going strong.
Yes. This is a known problem with those. Braze or weld that pickup tube on there. It should be hard as heck to put that tube in the pump. If it's not, make it that way. The oil pressure falling off the way it did was because when the engine is off, the oil level is high. You start it and the oil in the pan drops below where the pump and sump tube meet, and it starts sucking air. Seal that up, and you're good.
We always tack weld the pick up on or wire it on for that very reason.. thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
You can put a Mechanical gates on the front engine port to get a different Data point. I had a similar issue, and it seemed to be resolved by simply replacing the oil filter. The oil filter is actually between the front engine port in rear engine oil port. So it's possible they're sludge built up in there. I run my Chevy With a permanent oil gauge on the front port undred the hood
Where is the port exactly on the front ?
@@kellismith4329 front driverside near the ground wire. It's really hard to see with the power steering pump in the way. There's a large plug
For high oil pressure, put a 2wd pick up tube and 2wd oil pan. I did that on a blazer I had and it ran 75 psi all the time. That same engine is now on its 3rd vehicle, s10. It has close to 400k miles and still running high oil pressure. Everyone has told me it's not a good thing to have that much oil pressure,but I can't believe that when the engine is outlasting the trucks I put it in.
Thank You sir for this informative video. I am a BIG FAN of the Chevrolet 4.3 liter V6. How can you go wrong with the 350’s baby brother. I have seen mechanics in the past put a spot weld on the oil pump/pickup tube during an engine rebuild just to solve that future problem. Again, Thank You for your time and effort to bring these small but important tips to the UA-cam communities attention. And by the way, nice looking shop. Keep up the good videos. Have A Productive Day! 🛻🚚🚛
Once you've set the oil pan to pickup clearance, drop the pump, spot weld the pickup in place to the pump, then reinstall it. Dropping the pump, or having the engine out, keeps you from trying to isolate all the electronics from the welder.
Never seen that before...good catch!
Never seen an oring on a chevy oil pump pickup tube, the relief valve is stuck, I've only used big block pumps on all small block, big blocks and V6s....
I love your video's my brother!! I am from the Autobody side of things. I am sure you have seen impact scenerio's from manufacturers and the Insurance industry. A.S.E. and ICAR.too. When something is involved in an impact, the kenetic energy is something that will blow your mind. And remember the vehicles passinger compartment is made to absorb this energy to protect the occupants. And rightfully so!! I have seen parts tweeked and out round or caliber that it will just blow your mind. It is very important to quiz the salvage yards and insurance info to find out what these parts have been involved in. I am specifically talking about inside a motor, Trans, Axle housing, etc.. stuff that you can not physically see individual parts inside!! Be safe everbody!! Peace and prosperity to all of you!! Montana Rick.
I am in the process of replacing the pan gasket on my 2002 4WD Sonoma. OMG, I had no idea how much stuff I'd have to remove to get the pan down. Did the same thing you did. I had to take upper control arm off driver side so I could barely get a socket on the upper diff mounting nut. Not a fun job. I will def check my pickup up tube and maybe give it a couple of zaps with my welder to keep it firmly connected.
These are press fit you’ll need a new pickup tube and tac weld for insurance. Been building Chevys for over 50 years.
Done !! Did that this afternoon !!
doesnt the heat from the weld weaken the oil bypass spring in the pump?
No it's just a tack weld it doesn't get that hot
So where the follow up video to this ? I have the same issue . Did replacing the oil pump and pickup tube help ?
the engine shop i worked with used to tack weld the pick up tubes especially on Chevy small blocks
I tig braze the tube in. Also all the pickups I have put on pumps are press fit. I remove the bypass spring before any tig brazing is done. I also make a sheet metal bracket that bolts to the pump and weld it to the tube. Just did this on a 6.2 diesel.
It didn't necessarily have to be sucking air. If you've ever watched video of a boat prop, totally submerged cavitate, it will produce bubbles underwater with no access to an air source. You just have to move the fluid faster than it is capable of, or introduce a secondary stream of fluid.
At Idle, the pump was probably not moving enough oil to lower the oil level for it to suck air, but the pump was probably pulling enough suction to pull oil around the pick up tube (the second stream).
That could have generated "frothy" oil, which would hold no pressure, because the air in the bubbles would compress more readily than the oil itself.
Cavitation is the bane of anything hydraulic, and it has been known to happen in sealed hydraulic systems, resulting in anything from weak hydraulics to destroyed pumps.
boat propeller cavitation is different than just frothy oil in an engine. on boat propeller it has very high pressure and it makes the water actually boil even erodes away surface of propeller on high powered boats
@@ranger178 in any "hydraulic" scenario where you are moving fluid cavitation is possible. The only prerequisite is that the mechanical influence be greater than the fluids ability to move.
@@ranger178 It also causes bent/broken exhaust valves on a 454 ls6. Ask me how I know!
Same problem here with my 1994 chevy truck 5.7 . Now this is my second motor and doing the same thing. Oil pressure drops down to the red when hot and check engine light comes on. Changed sending unit several times on both motors and oil pump on the engine i have now. Good oil pressure when hot and when it drops sometimes it jumps up and down . I am wondering if it could be Elect when wires get hot. What a Headache .
I've heard so many people say the pickups fall off or don't seal right, etc. I've built many sbc and never once had a problem. I don't weld them or anything. Done them in 4x4s, drag cars, dirt cars, street cars. Even a couple 4.3l and just never had that bad luck, I guess. I also am selective and test fit as well as clearance check. That's a weird issue though, I'll say that.
Yeah I’ve done at least a hundred long block. It only makes common sense to sure the pick up
Is tight and at the right height. That’s the same symptoms the ls motors have when the o-ring gets hard and flat. Just my two pennies.
@@majestic7117 yeah it's a solid idea and I'm not opposed to tacking the pickup in place. I've just never once had an issue and built motors from almost all domestic makes and models. Even some of the new gen engines and it's just never been an issue for me
Your video posted after this discuss the actual oil fill level in the pan and how it covers the pump and no need for priming. The oil level also covers the pickup tube interface, so siphoning air is not the cause of loss of oil pressure with proper oIl fill level. So, what did you find was the problem with oil pressure dropout? I did not see any subsequent videos covering your findings.
On a new Chevy oil pump and screen we always tack welded pick up tube to pump. Some times they do come loose.
Wow. I have a 96 chevy 1500 pick up and have the same issue now I have something else to try. Good pressure at start up when cold no pressure or.very little when hot
while u have it apart weld that pick up tube on, its common to come apart and take out the engine. This is why hot rodders ect always weld om on the pick up tubes
Good point. Keep wrenching!
Hello I've been a engine mechanic for 46 years I have seen this before that is why I lock tight them 😎
Reman - Who ever removed the screen from the old pump distorted the (knock in ) press fit of the tube going into the pump or by turning the screen to the proper angle after installing the screen . Who ever installed that screen should have known that was not tight enough and a problem that can destroy the engine , should have got a new screen . Ive seen people years ago rough up the tube (burs )so it would fit tighter in the pump , I guess they didnt think about it sucking air because it wasnt sealing correctly . Other companies bolt the screen to the pump so this doesnt happen . And NO their is not a o`ring on the tube , its a press type fit .
New pump, New screen installed correctly, pickup screen requires a specific tool for installation to the pump, have correct pickup for and adjustment to the oil pan to be used, and correctly tack welded (not to getting it to hot, or welding any debris) check everything before final assembly! SB Chevy oiling is critically important to life expectancy. Always New OEM Delco stock parts!
GM already invested millions researching V-8 oiling systems 🙂 GBU
@@ChevyCoco All you have to do is , what ever spacing you want the pickup screen off the bottom of the oil pan , just start the screen in the pump slightly and slightly tilted up toward the pan , lay something the thickness you want it off the bottom > on the bottom of the screen , and then set the oil pan down in place it will push the screen down in the position where it belongs , then remove the pan put on some red loctite and knock the screen into the pump up against the stop . I have never tore down a GM engine with the screen tack welded to the pump..........Its not like a new screen is that expensive .
Always welded that pick up tube to the pump never had any problems with oil pressure
@@davecramer9725 Go ahead and weld the freeze plugs , bearing races and etc.. also while your at it , all of which are not necessary when done correctly .......Then call GM and tell them you know more about it than they do ...........
Thourally clean the outside of the pick up tube, and the inside of the receiving hole for the tube. Run a small bead of JB Weld around the tube just infront of the buldge on the pipe. Set in place. Allow to cure. Should be good.
Nobody in their right mind would use JB Weld to secure a press fit oil pump pitch up tube. Either the tube gets replaces or you swedge the tube to fit securely. Then tack Weld it onto the pump.
@@PapawCulberson yup. Now you've got it. 🤪
Mr. JB Weld Mark...Geezer Auto Repair...Justice Brothers Fixes...
Interesting 🤔 Thanks 👍
The O-ring seal that goes into the oil pump from the pickup tube is a known problem as is the oil pressure relief valve right above the oil filter on them. I've seen people actually take the oil pressure relief valve off of the oil pan and replace it with a M 14 by 1.5 oil drain plug with Teflon tape on it.
Interesting, I will have to keep that in mind. Thanks for watching!
Your talking about an LS engine
There’s no print on the small blocks
You are correct 💯
@@user-bc6cy8xy3t True statement. Seen several Gen 1 SBC with the pickup tube brazed in the oil pump body to prevent this.
There is no oring on this engine
It's actually common for this. A reason for the tack weld is a must. If you don't have a welder, use a little bit of JB Weld on it. Just make sure the surface is cleaned with no oil so it sticks.
I always used a millings high volume pump when I rebuilt a motor
The pumps for sbc remans I've been installing always have the pickup attached.
thats why i always weld a bracket on the tube and bolt it to the pump and i also epoxy the tube in the pump , been doin this since the 70s never had a problem
I used to put the pickup tube tack braze it in place then remove the pump and braze it all the way around.
I had a 4.3 that would do something very similar. Ended up having a rear cam bearing spun in block. No noises but it would just drop off after got hot. Put shop air in sending unit tube with intake off and sure enough you could see it bubbling between bearing and block.
Years ago I had a 262 V8 out of a Monza that lost oil pressure on me . Shut it down and coasted to my girlfriend's place . Went to leave it had oil pressure , WTF ? It had split the rear cam bearing . 43 years later I have never seen it again .
my 4.3 just did the same thing but it has 400k on it spun a cam bearing
We used to weld them on our race cars so they wouldn’t move or fall out. but I’m old maybe they don’t do that anymore
Well its press fit i install them with a special tool thats off set to hammer it home i have both 1.2 inch and 3.4 available from melling very nice and easy to install p.u
Older Chevys relied on an interference from it, and a lot of builders brazed or welded the pickup to the pump. I’d go for brazing myself, but a lot of engines ran right without that.
Usually when oil pressure drops at idle,it's usually bad cam bearings,but yes this Is an odd one.
Wild finding Kenny, I have an 01 GMC JIMMY has the same issue with oil pump gauge.. maybe I have a silmilar situation on my pump?.
Did the oil pump replacement work? I’m having the same problem with a 454
1997 Honda Accord struck a deer. The impact was enough to break the windshield washer nozzle!
But if the pickup tube was still in the pump, but loose, may not be from the impact.
I have a 2013 f-150 3.7 naturally aspirated, 102000 miles, its runs great has lots of power, but once its warmer 20+ mins of running if you come to a stop and put it in park it has a roughness it''ll be like smooth then every like second 2 it'll stumble then smooth then stumble, in drive at idle it is so smooth you cant tell its running but if you put in park smooth then miss,smooth then miss, I've had it to ford many times, they ran injector cleaner, and replaced spark plugs, smoked the intake for intake leaks couldn't find anything ive done a ton of maintenance and the fluids are good new air filter, new mass air flow sensor just bugs me a lot but they say they can fill it but can't find anything. they tested fuel pressure and which was good and did a power balance and said its normal, but i've been in other trucks and the idle is super smooth in park or in drive with the break on. so just wondering if you had any ideas
Yep I always spot tig weld chevy pickup tubes after driving them in pump
Pioneer makes a bracket to hold the pickup to the pump without welding or brazing it.
Had that happen to me on a 1966 so 396 after a rebuild, ended up tack welding the pickup to the oil pump , not trusting the press fit !
Im chasing a simklar ghost on my small block. Im praying its this and not bearings. Thanks for the clue
This is the only video I’ve seen yet that proves the Chevy oil pump pickup myth in fact is truth!
I have always welded the pickup to the pump had the same problem once
I would take the spring out of the oil pump and tack weld the pick up and after it cools put the spring back in but add one small washer to the end of spring for just a little added pressure but as long as you’re already in there I’d take the pump out and apart and blue print it.check the clearances and sand flat on a piece emery paper on a piece of plexiglass to make sure it’s a flat surface put together make sure it spins freely before reinstalling and you’re golden.there’s not much else that can be wrong with an oil pump.they don’t usually spin that free without the extra care.
I always tack weld the pickup tube to the pump to keep this from happening.
Good video
Thank you !
generally if the pump is replaced...they can come without the pick up installed... I used to braze the pick up in place...also...to adjust the level of the pick up from the bottom of the pan...I shot for a 1/4in clearance... used play-doh on top of the pick up... squished it with the pan to check my clearance
This is why I used to spot braze the pick-up tube in place on all those type pumps, V6, V8, anything with that style pump.
Lucky that didn't fall out while running down the road. I had a 1997 Jeep with a 2.5 and 200k miles that would do the exact same thing. The pan on it was actually easy to pull so it wasn't quite the PIA as a pan on a 4.3 in a 4x4 is. The new pump fixed it. But I bet you are right on your application, the pump was probably OK, just the pickup tube drawing air when it got warm and at low rpms.
Check the oil valve next to oil filter it's looks like a bolt it's above where the oil filter screws in
How did that new oil pump work out on that chevy I seem to have the same issue with mine.
An alternate explanation is somehow getting high vacuum in the crankcase.
The oil flow would remain the same but the gauge would show lower.
Lyle makes a oil pump pick up tube sweging driver kit that comes with 14 different drivers....unfortunately, you also need the Lyle oil pump pick up tube installing kit
Check the pressure by pass on the oil pump. Ive seen them stick with a piece of debris, holding it open. It'll make pressure still, but it'll be all over the map. When the volume of the pump comes up and loads the system, pressure is fine. But if the by pass piston is stuck, you rely on the volume of the pump at low rpm to produce pressure and if, like you surmised originally if the oil is aerated/foamy at all, you wont have jack for pressure. Especially if the pick up tube is sucking air too.
Old school BBC were famous for this, sometimes the pick up tube would fall out and sink to the bottom of the pan.
Seems like it just sucks air at idle. Up the RPM and it sucks the pickup tight and provides good pressure. I’ve seen the same thing on fuel systems with a mechanical pump. Where the hose connects to the metal tank outlet it rots around the bead roll. When idling it sucks air and carb runs dry, but if you stay on the throttle it keeps going. That was tricky to find too.
Cliffhanger! You never told us the outcome! I have an 03 with 135K on it drops below 20
1999 chevy tahoe 4wd 5.7 v8 350. when i was installing my rebuilt, i had to measure the distance of that pick up tube, i had my brother weld it to the pump.
One problem i am having though is my oil psi drops when engine is hot but only at idle or in park, I had a leak in the rear main seal which was installed backword, and when i was installing the transmission together i broke the oil pressure sensor on the top of the engine. I installed a new one and was noticing the said problem. Im thinking it might be my oil cooler adapter, that when it gets hot and the engine is at high rpm its sending oil to the intercoller or something like that. normal psi when starting and cold is 40, driving at 30-60mph when hot is 35ish, and complete stop or warm and idle is below 10.
I just did this job... first for me... I did NOT have to take the front diff or the rack off... took the starter off but realized I didnt need to...just removed the cross member, 2 nuts and 2 nutted bolts from the front axle. enough room to remove the pan... YT Universtiy!
Hello, I'm in same situation, just replaced sending unit only to get same low pressure as the old one. Did the new oil pump fixed the issue?
That's a press fit pickup no oring needed if the pickup is put on and most guys tack weld the pickup on so it doesn't come out
Years ago I had a 82 Volvo DL, thanks to a previous owner the engine had a bad case of piston slap so I pulled it and sent it to the machine shop for a rebuild. After I reinstalled it, I'd get a flashing oil pressure light at idle. I pulled the pan and found the idiot machine shop had put an older style oil pump in it but had not changed the pickup tube to match, it caused an o-ring to blow out. I had the old oil pump, I inspected it and found it to be in great shape, I put that in which solved the problem.
I have an 02' Blazer ZR2. Can't get to the oil pump or pan off without pulling the engine.
It's been very well taken care of & has 300k miles on her.
I deleted the oil cooler lines & my pressure went up but at idle it drops below the 1/2 mark on the gauge. Then when I start going it goes back up past the 1/2 way mark on gauge.
With new oil it stays at 1/2 or higher all the time. Plus it depends on outside temp & I'm in hot area here South of Houston.
If you're concerned put a mechanical guage on it. The rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Keep wrenching 🔧
This is happening to my ‘67 mustang with the 200ci just got finished putting new rod bearings and mains in. Didn’t have to do the rings since the motor has 22k miles on it and has good compression. Everytime I drive it when it’s under operating temperature my oil psi stays at 40psi which is good. But when it gets hot (to operating temp) it drops to 20psi and when I brake at a stop light it drops all the way down to 0psi and when I made the complete stop it jumps back to 20psi. I’m hoping this is my issue because this project was very time consuming and they barley make parts for my original engine anymore
That sounds like it's simply low on oil when braking the oil sloshes to the front of the pan the pump sucks air for a few seconds then when you stop the oil goes back to original level and it picks it back up again or another thing to check is the oil pump drive that runs off of the distributor on some ford's they had issues w them slipping good luck w it ..
My 305 pick up screen did fall and screwed up some rod bearing i did a complete overhaul cam and bearing too and at a idol its 10 psi and thats with a high volume pump got 700 miles on it now highway speed i get 45 psi
I might have to do this with my truck, stock oil pump, I do lots of off-roading though and I've noticed my oil pressure is running at like 10PSI on hot idle, I am using high flow rate K&N filters so maybe that has something to do with it. I also plan on putting a higher flow rate pump in there while I'm at it since I *really* like pressing the gas pedal. However, mine never goes to zero, if that happened I'd be immediately doing this mod.
high volume pump never hurts. but if i was you id do the rod bearings while your at it. you like pressing the gas? the rods like eating the bearings.
Is there a follow up video regarding replacement pump installation?
We used to TIG tack the tube to the pump to make sure this didn’t happen
You may want to make sure that it's not the oil filter gasket. You may have double gasketed. Or there may be a plastic on the oil filter. I knocked a round pin through mine it is a expanding pin never had any problem with it after that
The drop in negative pressure at idle would be enough to allow air into the oil feed causing the pump to cavitate at idle...and no oil pressure... You're right. Shocking mechanical design when you think it could wreck the entire engine potentially....🤔😳😏😏😏🇬🇧...Maybe it's a GM sales drive?
Not so shocking, it's a chevy remember.
This is my 2nd s10. I've had a LOT of Fords. Never have a problem like this....
This thing is hard as hell to work on too. Like he said, the oil sending unit is a rean pain in the ass, and the oil pan....OMG. Removing the entire front wheel hubs AND the frond Diff is insane. Just for an oil pan.
I have a spark plug I can't remove because the steering column is blocking it. I don't know if that plug has ever been changed in 150k miles. I can't trust a shop won't just skip it either. No knuckles or bolts visible for removing the steering column shaft either. I see no way to change that damn plug. Stupid GMC/chevy garbage.
Anyone want to buy a clean 1995 sonoma 4x4 extend cab with 150k miles?
Kenny did you solve this problem I would like to know? i junked a Chevy with the same 4.3 problem . just couldn't figure it out.
Those engines For some reason have always had oil pump problems the 43 and the 57 I think At 1 time the dealer even said there was ATS P about using 3M roll off pads to Being gaskets was the problem but then they used those plastic ones with the same abrasive basically. I think just put in a good mellings oil pump And either attack well or use sleeve retainer or even some good right stuff silicone on the oil pump pick up Problem fixed
A good healthy spot weld or two will always solve the problem
I tack weld, or safety wire every one I install in place.
I'm 70 years old and learned 50yrs ago that a SBC that lasted 100mi was a really good one. Reason being where I live the roads are really crooked and unless you dam near stop to go around every curve the oil will climb up the side of the oil pan and the pickup is sucking air bearings don't last long that way. I have never encountered any other engine that does that. So the lesson is if you live in the mountains and have twisting roads stay away from small block Chevrolet engines.