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The mortar is not necessarily what is clogging the weep holes,its the efflorescence that builds up around the mortar that is filling up the weep holes. If you protect the weeps from the mortar getting in there, the efflorescence cannot build up in those tiny little holes. Also the drain you show definitely has a lot of weep holes, but there are some cheaper drains from big box stores that only have 4 tiny holes. 33years tile installation here. I now trouble shoot shower systems full time and see this all the time.
I love these upending the system videos because I myself also like pointing out the stupidity in everyday things and getting to say to people "This is why this is bullsh*t"
First shower pan project, Home depot says i should use peet gravel over weep holes(I'm not), also they put backer board after liner then do the mortar. I dont want to replace this shower in 10 years. I trust your work experince.
Actually it doesn't really prove a whole lot, except that you can't clog a weep hole... and also it's irrelevant since everybody is waterproofing their pan surface, none of that matters anymore because your pan never see any moisture
I don’t know man…I have never done a shower pan in my life but I just took apart the shower at the house we just bought (12yo) because of the mildew smell and two things 1) weep holes filled with mortar 2) no pre-slope The mortar bed was stinky but not saturate. Some mildew under tile especially near drain. (No redgard in bed, just in corners on wall board). I’m not sure how I want to proceed… Thanks for the videos.
I like Starr-Tile's rebellious ways and think a lot of his principles are good, but if it were me, I'd insist on a pre-slope. If your contractor balks, just buy pre-formed foam one for him that he can just slip under the liner. It's only $60. Cheap insurance, IMO.
The standing water puddles on the membrane, wouldnt that cause odors over time? By pre sloping under membrane gravity becomes a friend to this situation. What am i missing here?
It actually easy to build proof of concept to validate wether capillary effect will retain water in thin-set. You would need bottle or jar out of transparent glass, fill it up with thin-set and put it on upside down till it dries out. Then immerse it into water for day to saturate it with water, then remove and put it upside down on something impervious like piece of pan liner, this is just to simulate that nothing sucks out moisture out of it, but same time allows natural wheep due to gravity, so my guess without sustained water source thinset will dry out quickly as gravity will pull out all water molecules, so preslope actually works as it’s pitch enables water molecules to drain toward wheep hole. Mud bed temperature is not high enough to keep water in jar in gas state so it will get dry.
Funny, I always knew this and always got comments from carpenters and plumbers about why my weep holes aren’t protected? “Um, because deck mud is specifically used for its porous water flowing ability”. I’ve moved on to a single final float and will only do a pre float, membrane and final if requested by the customer.
Hey so if you waterproof all the way to the drain. How does the water get over the drain? The drain sticks out about 1/4 of an inch above Redgard. How do you address that? You will have a wet ring of water around the drain about 12” in radius.
Not sure what you're talking about, the shower pan is waterproof up to the neck of the drain, a bead of silicone is run around the edge of the drain where the mortar meets at it...if moisture gets through grout it is stopped there and dried before next shower.
Ahh, designs... Water on top of tile will flow over drain screen and into drain. Water getting through grout joints will flow on top of redgard, around adjustable screen, and down center of drain. If you need further explanation, go buy a 3 pc drain and re-watch this and other videos with drain in front of you.
Str8UpCampin not if you silicone right around the drain. There are no weep holes to get to. If you have a family that takes three showers a night there is absolutely no way that it will ever dry.
Hey mate hope you doing well. I am currently redoing my bathroom and I am living in Japan and tiles just break my bank..... So I was thinking can you do a rough Plastering/Mortar wall finish on Redgard for a shower? maybe you could do a test? Kind regards. All the best from Toyko, Mike
Great experiment but Pre-slope will help water head toward the drain and not just sit and grow filth. You’re gonna slope the shower tiles anyway… may as well have the liner sloped. After all it’s not really water going down the drain, it’s a magical elixir, soap, shampoo, skin … but structurally it probably won’t matter. Ps for diy’ers … true deck mud has no lime in it… most pre-bagged mortar mixes do. Quick Crete etc give their deck mud formula on the spec sheet as either sand:Portland cement as 5:1 or 3:1 for deck mud … you can make your own… ( that’s Portland cement not concrete )… mortar and concrete have lime added which apparently reduces porosity and drainage which is up for a philosophical debate. Less porosity means less water gets in in the first place right ?
You put a plug in the drain and do a flood test after the liner is put down..... But..... this is an old video and we don't do that anymore, the mortar surface gets waterproofed so the motar will never see water and neither will the weep holes. Look up sealed system shower on YT
Anything that is built correctly will work. Some guys do things by the book because that's how they were taught. Plus to be fair some municipalities require you to use the book methods or they won't pass your inspection. In places like California were Isaac and landburge tile are or in Boston were sal is if you don't use proper book methods you don't pass inspection. Everyone has their own way but if you are a homeowner and your looking at UA-cam for ways to do a shower your better off using a book method or using a shower kit with instructions. It will protect you incase something goes wrong with the build. I'm a professional contractor and I have been called to look at showers that don't use proper methods and fail because the homeowner decided not to do everything right. Fact is if you waterproof everything on the top and use the right drain you won't have a problem. I prefer to use a bonding flange drain for topical membrane application because then you don't have to worry about weeping.
I agree with most everything you said especially your last paragraph. But there are a lot of people who question things like me, they want to know why you must do a b and c, I like showing these things against others who you mentioned that it *must* be done without explanation or logic behind it. So at least ppl are given a choice. Here in Georgia there's no rules on what a homeowner can do in their own home so at least they'll have both sides of knowledge before deciding how and why moving forward with a project... in my opinion there is no such thing as too much information
You are an wrong and are providing incorrect and inaccurate information. I hope no one takes your advice. The manufacturer of most shower drains in America Oatey, recommends that you put gravel around the weep holes so that you do not clog them up. I guess you know better than the manufacturer??? Pre-sloping the floor prior to your mud bed and liner are just "Insurance" to protect a customer's house and the huge investment they've made. The same can be said about the actual waterproofing of a shower. Showers cost thousands and thousands of dollars, and you are just too lazy to give your customers the extra added Insurance to protect their investment for years and years. You give true tile Setters a bad name.
Installer raised the height of the top float with thinset mortar to make the top surface of a thinner tile to meet up with drain properly. I noticed the thinset was very wet and I wondered if the thinset could flow to weep holes and clog it. Do you think there is any risk of that?
Yes it still weeps because it suppose to. But not nearly on the level when its done correctly. You didnt show nothing more then he did. Except that dry pack wicks water straight to the liner.
I appreciate the information you are giving out on this video but I could not understand you very well with the music playing in background. May I suggest turning the sound down on the background music when you make your videos.
Pebbles aren’t to stop weep holes clogging-it’s to create a path of least resistance for water that’s wicking into your pan saturates to the bottom of your deck mud and then ‘ wicks ‘ into the rest of your pan when saturated- the rocks create a permanent non saturation area that hits the bottom plate and down the drain before 100% Saturation of your deck mud and expansion of wicking properties
I live in RI and I drew a design how I wanted my walk in shower done. Someone refered me to a great contractor who I met with and recieved a price. He sent a tile guy who did a great job on my floor but not my shower. He forgot to put a pan in , tile cuts didn't match, water stayed in the middle of my shower and wouldn't drain. I asked the sub contractor to show me his license and insurance, he said he didn't have any and he told my contractor that he tiled as a hobby. My shower now leaks out from under the step up. I live on SSDI after working on a rescue for 10 years my knees and back are not good so I have to save for jobs like this. My savings are gone and everyone I call to come fix it, they won't touch someone else's bad work ? I don't know what else to do... Help anyone ? Earlene
@@bolerdweller I will clog the threads and do another experiment I don't know how difficult it is to understand... mortar is extremely porous, water will seep through it even in a three-quarter inch hole that's a 1/4" thick
@@StarrTile What about mineral deposits in water? Will those clog the weep holes when stuck between the tiny particles of mortar? What are your thoughts.
Common sense tells me that while weep holes packed with mortar will flow water, they will likely not flow as fast as weep holes surrounded by pebbles. The few inches right around the drain is where the water will all end up. I'll take a technique that evacuates that water quickly over one that lets it out slowly. Unless someone has evidence to the contrary.
The water had enough access to get to the weep holes through the mortar so the mortar around the weep holes is irrelevant, and when you mix mortar with rocks you have concrete, Pebbles as you propose are denser than sand, there is your proof, but totally irrelevant now since we waterproof the surface
When I was in Europe it was 1989 and I wasn't doing tile so I didn't really pay attention , but I've definitely seen it in Jamaica, Dominican Republic, and Philippines
By not also clogging the bottom troughs (shown at 7:45 and later in the video), does this experiment really demonstrate that clogged weep holes isn't a problem because it can still drain water? It appears that the water simply drained instead through the unclogged troughs, and thus doesn't really demonstrate that clogging weep holes with mortar isn't a problem. Didn't this effectively just demonstrate the same situation as "if you only clog 1/2 of the weep holes, water will still drain out through the others"? I'm a big fan of these StarrTile videos, generally - but I'm simply not following how that experiment proved anything. Wouldn't you need to clog ALL of the weeping points, to make the case that it doesn't matter?
No, the point I was trying to make is you cannot clog weep holes with the same mortar that you propose water can get through 3 ft away to even GET the holes....contradictory. Mortar is sand/cement so water will get through, introducing pea gravel or rocks will make concrete, water would have a harder time getting through a rock then it would sand, especially if that rock is dead center of the hole which you would never know. And as I stated in the video there is not just the holes but the trough cutouts on the top and bottom of the flange as well as cutouts inside of the barrel threads. Of course it's all a moot issue now since everybody waterproofs the surface of the pan, water should never see any of that stuff to begin with. The manufacturers of the drains have not caught up with the modern practices.
Isaac didn't cheat. He used a different material to enhance the flow of water. If you use a weep hole sheild witch is a plastic ring that goes around the drain you get the same effect.
@@ryancoulter7681 he cheated because he used an *outdoor landscape mat* that is not meant for showers and no one uses, so his experiment was void of real life applications...the plastic weep hole protector wouldn't have nearly the same effect.
Bob in all reality everyone uses a topical membrane anymore. And Issac used a Schluter product that is available to anyone for his drainage mat. So it is realistic to do so. They do things differently on the west coast. I use a bit of this and a bit of that depending on the need or want.
@@ryancoulter7681 I would agree that modifying methods is not a bad thing, I do it all the time, but in this situation I had gone to the tile store I deal with and the product is extremely expensive and it comes in a huge roll that you must buy all of it for because again it is an outdoor application... it was never meant to go on your shower pan liner , that's the point I was trying to make, and because it is not meant for such an application I doubt people like Isaac actually using it because they are book soldiers and do everything by rules.. but to make his experiment believable he had to use something to get the water to escape so quickly.
The old ways are just that imo Bob. Hydroban, redgard, aquadefense, kerdi, wedi, ardex 8+9, ect. These are the new ways of doing showers. Pan liners and weeping showers are a thing of the past. Now need for them anymore. If I were you I'd stop even buying the liner. It's really not needed anymore. But use a bonding flange drain instead of the three piece. I challenge you to show a new video with this application. I've used it for years and never had a failure. Plus the manufacturer backs it if installed correctly. Go outside your comfort zone and give it a try. You will like it and it will speed up your process without compromising it. Take the challenge man. I look forward to your thoughts.
So you and issac have shown how a shower pan is made and design to work and all of your shower builds do not seem to have any common sense built upon them.Seems to me great tile guy but you do not have the right way to lead water where you want it to go.And yes I build showers professionally and will never ever put any redguard in my shower base or seal the redguard with the shower walls to the shower pan because you go completely against how a shower pan is designed to work.
Gloria is it ??? And you've built for how long ? As for me going back to 1998, every time I tear apart a shower I find the failure and mitigate those failures any way I choose to... and Common Sense rules my day... Isaac is a book Soldier which is why he's had multiple failures on his channel, common sense isn't common. Be that as it may, everybody who bills showers waterproof whether it's a liquid topical membrane or Kerdi membrane or some other way to waterproof their walls and their floor, the water in water out system is a fading and archaic method. Look up the 100 year shower in the search box on YT...nuff said after I posted THAT video 👌👍
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the plastic injection molding of that black drain assembly is impeccable. stainless steel bolts. nice.
Thanks for the good explanation. Very helpful.
I'll have to see this one again sir. Was driving and trying to listen but audio was not cooperating. Thank you greatly for sharing your wisdom.
The mortar is not necessarily what is clogging the weep holes,its the efflorescence that builds up around the mortar that is filling up the weep holes. If you protect the weeps from the mortar getting in there, the efflorescence cannot build up in those tiny little holes. Also the drain you show definitely has a lot of weep holes, but there are some cheaper drains from big box stores that only have 4 tiny holes. 33years tile installation here. I now trouble shoot shower systems full time and see this all the time.
What type of company do you work for to troubleshoot showers for a living? Sounds awesome
I need you!
I love these upending the system videos because I myself also like pointing out the stupidity in everyday things and getting to say to people "This is why this is bullsh*t"
Great video brother this analysis has been long overdue but would you consider doing a video with a complete mud bed
Happy Friday! Weeping for you!
😂😂😂
First shower pan project, Home depot says i should use peet gravel over weep holes(I'm not), also they put backer board after liner then do the mortar. I dont want to replace this shower in 10 years. I trust your work experince.
You are so right I love you
hot mop here in california clogged my weep holes, but water can still seep through in other areas around the drain
Great video. This proves the importance of pre-sloping!
Actually it doesn't really prove a whole lot, except that you can't clog a weep hole... and also it's irrelevant since everybody is waterproofing their pan surface, none of that matters anymore because your pan never see any moisture
Yes indeedy!
Very interesting!!
Indeed
I don’t know man…I have never done a shower pan in my life but I just took apart the shower at the house we just bought (12yo) because of the mildew smell and two things
1) weep holes filled with mortar
2) no pre-slope
The mortar bed was stinky but not saturate.
Some mildew under tile especially near drain.
(No redgard in bed, just in corners on wall board).
I’m not sure how I want to proceed…
Thanks for the videos.
I like Starr-Tile's rebellious ways and think a lot of his principles are good, but if it were me, I'd insist on a pre-slope. If your contractor balks, just buy pre-formed foam one for him that he can just slip under the liner. It's only $60. Cheap insurance, IMO.
The standing water puddles on the membrane, wouldnt that cause odors over time? By pre sloping under membrane gravity becomes a friend to this situation. What am i missing here?
I have a video call pre-slope explained I did it about 4 years ago, use that title in the search box on UA-cam and you can watch it
@K T that is one way to do it, although nowadays we are waterproofing the pan surface so it makes you pre slope a moot issue
It actually easy to build proof of concept to validate wether capillary effect will retain water in thin-set. You would need bottle or jar out of transparent glass, fill it up with thin-set and put it on upside down till it dries out. Then immerse it into water for day to saturate it with water, then remove and put it upside down on something impervious like piece of pan liner, this is just to simulate that nothing sucks out moisture out of it, but same time allows natural wheep due to gravity, so my guess without sustained water source thinset will dry out quickly as gravity will pull out all water molecules, so preslope actually works as it’s pitch enables water molecules to drain toward wheep hole. Mud bed temperature is not high enough to keep water in jar in gas state so it will get dry.
Funny, I always knew this and always got comments from carpenters and plumbers about why my weep holes aren’t protected? “Um, because deck mud is specifically used for its porous water flowing ability”. I’ve moved on to a single final float and will only do a pre float, membrane and final if requested by the customer.
Could thinset clog them if a wet mix was pushed into the float?
Hey so if you waterproof all the way to the drain. How does the water get over the drain? The drain sticks out about 1/4 of an inch above Redgard. How do you address that? You will have a wet ring of water around the drain about 12” in radius.
Not sure what you're talking about, the shower pan is waterproof up to the neck of the drain, a bead of silicone is run around the edge of the drain where the mortar meets at it...if moisture gets through grout it is stopped there and dried before next shower.
Ahh, designs... Water on top of tile will flow over drain screen and into drain. Water getting through grout joints will flow on top of redgard, around adjustable screen, and down center of drain. If you need further explanation, go buy a 3 pc drain and re-watch this and other videos with drain in front of you.
Str8UpCampin not if you silicone right around the drain. There are no weep holes to get to. If you have a family that takes three showers a night there is absolutely no way that it will ever dry.
A bead of silicone is put at area where Redgard meets drain neck...no water gets into pan
StarrTile but that’s my point. Water cannot drain out properly. Maybe do one or your tests and see how long it takes for that water to evaporate.
Hey mate hope you doing well. I am currently redoing my bathroom and I am living in Japan and tiles just break my bank..... So I was thinking can you do a rough Plastering/Mortar wall finish on Redgard for a shower? maybe you could do a test? Kind regards. All the best from Toyko, Mike
Might work..idk
Great experiment but Pre-slope will help water head toward the drain and not just sit and grow filth. You’re gonna slope the shower tiles anyway… may as well have the liner sloped. After all it’s not really water going down the drain, it’s a magical elixir, soap, shampoo, skin … but structurally it probably won’t matter. Ps for diy’ers … true deck mud has no lime in it… most pre-bagged mortar mixes do. Quick Crete etc give their deck mud formula on the spec sheet as either sand:Portland cement as 5:1 or 3:1 for deck mud … you can make your own… ( that’s Portland cement not concrete )… mortar and concrete have lime added which apparently reduces porosity and drainage which is up for a philosophical debate. Less porosity means less water gets in in the first place right ?
Very good video my question is how we are going to test the liner if the weep holes will keep draining
You put a plug in the drain and do a flood test after the liner is put down.....
But..... this is an old video and we don't do that anymore, the mortar surface gets waterproofed so the motar will never see water and neither will the weep holes. Look up sealed system shower on YT
Anything that is built correctly will work. Some guys do things by the book because that's how they were taught. Plus to be fair some municipalities require you to use the book methods or they won't pass your inspection. In places like California were Isaac and landburge tile are or in Boston were sal is if you don't use proper book methods you don't pass inspection. Everyone has their own way but if you are a homeowner and your looking at UA-cam for ways to do a shower your better off using a book method or using a shower kit with instructions. It will protect you incase something goes wrong with the build. I'm a professional contractor and I have been called to look at showers that don't use proper methods and fail because the homeowner decided not to do everything right. Fact is if you waterproof everything on the top and use the right drain you won't have a problem. I prefer to use a bonding flange drain for topical membrane application because then you don't have to worry about weeping.
I agree with most everything you said especially your last paragraph. But there are a lot of people who question things like me, they want to know why you must do a b and c, I like showing these things against others who you mentioned that it *must* be done without explanation or logic behind it. So at least ppl are given a choice. Here in Georgia there's no rules on what a homeowner can do in their own home so at least they'll have both sides of knowledge before deciding how and why moving forward with a project... in my opinion there is no such thing as too much information
You are an wrong and are providing incorrect and inaccurate information. I hope no one takes your advice. The manufacturer of most shower drains in America Oatey, recommends that you put gravel around the weep holes so that you do not clog them up. I guess you know better than the manufacturer???
Pre-sloping the floor prior to your mud bed and liner are just "Insurance" to protect a customer's house and the huge investment they've made. The same can be said about the actual waterproofing of a shower. Showers cost thousands and thousands of dollars, and you are just too lazy to give your customers the extra added Insurance to protect their investment for years and years. You give true tile Setters a bad name.
Installer raised the height of the top float with thinset mortar to make the top surface of a thinner tile to meet up with drain properly. I noticed the thinset was very wet and I wondered if the thinset could flow to weep holes and clog it. Do you think there is any risk of that?
Weep holes would never kick in because I waterproof the surface of the motar and the entirety of the shower
@@StarrTile how do you waterproof the surface of the mortar?
@@terrinight5035 with Hydro ban, Redguard, aquadefense, even a Kerdi membrane, doesn't really matter as long as water doesn't get through
Yes it still weeps because it suppose to. But not nearly on the level when its done correctly.
You didnt show nothing more then he did. Except that dry pack wicks water straight to the liner.
I appreciate the information you are giving out on this video but I could not understand you very well with the music playing in background. May I suggest turning the sound down on the background music when you make your videos.
I live in Atlanta as well. I would like to tag along on any of your jobs and learn for free
Sometimes people sound like envious. I would say focus on yourself and let the world spin on it's axis
A better example:
A lie unanswered becomes the truth
Pebbles aren’t to stop weep holes clogging-it’s to create a path of least resistance for water that’s wicking into your pan saturates to the bottom of your deck mud and then ‘ wicks ‘ into the rest of your pan when saturated- the rocks create a permanent non saturation area that hits the bottom plate and down the drain before 100% Saturation of your deck mud and expansion of wicking properties
I live in RI and I drew a design how I wanted my walk in shower done. Someone refered me to a great contractor who I met with and recieved a price. He sent a tile guy who did a great job on my floor but not my shower. He forgot to put a pan in , tile cuts didn't match, water stayed in the middle of my shower and wouldn't drain. I asked the sub contractor to show me his license and insurance, he said he didn't have any and he told my contractor that he tiled as a hobby. My shower now leaks out from under the step up. I live on SSDI after working on a rescue for 10 years my knees and back are not good so I have to save for jobs like this. My savings are gone and everyone I call to come fix it, they won't touch someone else's bad work ? I don't know what else to do... Help anyone ? Earlene
I always wondered why people say water will travel through the mortar under the tile, but not the mortar in the weep holes. It seems illogical.
Right ????!!! 😂
@@bolerdweller I will clog the threads and do another experiment I don't know how difficult it is to understand... mortar is extremely porous, water will seep through it even in a three-quarter inch hole that's a 1/4" thick
MoneyManHolmes the weep holes unclogged gives it an easy exit as opposed to a disrupted exit. Common sense
@@StarrTile What about mineral deposits in water? Will those clog the weep holes when stuck between the tiny particles of mortar? What are your thoughts.
Anything Could Happen, but now that we waterproof surface it's irrelevant
You look like my grandpa bob.
Common sense tells me that while weep holes packed with mortar will flow water, they will likely not flow as fast as weep holes surrounded by pebbles. The few inches right around the drain is where the water will all end up. I'll take a technique that evacuates that water quickly over one that lets it out slowly. Unless someone has evidence to the contrary.
The water had enough access to get to the weep holes through the mortar so the mortar around the weep holes is irrelevant, and when you mix mortar with rocks you have concrete, Pebbles as you propose are denser than sand, there is your proof, but totally irrelevant now since we waterproof the surface
Have you ever seen European shower designs?
When I was in Europe it was 1989 and I wasn't doing tile so I didn't really pay attention , but I've definitely seen it in Jamaica, Dominican Republic, and Philippines
By not also clogging the bottom troughs (shown at 7:45 and later in the video), does this experiment really demonstrate that clogged weep holes isn't a problem because it can still drain water? It appears that the water simply drained instead through the unclogged troughs, and thus doesn't really demonstrate that clogging weep holes with mortar isn't a problem. Didn't this effectively just demonstrate the same situation as "if you only clog 1/2 of the weep holes, water will still drain out through the others"? I'm a big fan of these StarrTile videos, generally - but I'm simply not following how that experiment proved anything. Wouldn't you need to clog ALL of the weeping points, to make the case that it doesn't matter?
No, the point I was trying to make is you cannot clog weep holes with the same mortar that you propose water can get through 3 ft away to even GET the holes....contradictory. Mortar is sand/cement so water will get through, introducing pea gravel or rocks will make concrete, water would have a harder time getting through a rock then it would sand, especially if that rock is dead center of the hole which you would never know. And as I stated in the video there is not just the holes but the trough cutouts on the top and bottom of the flange as well as cutouts inside of the barrel threads.
Of course it's all a moot issue now since everybody waterproofs the surface of the pan, water should never see any of that stuff to begin with. The manufacturers of the drains have not caught up with the modern practices.
@@StarrTile I’m pickin up what you’re throwin down.
This shower war is going to go on forever lol. Issac cheated on his experiment so I considered that null and void.
Isaac didn't cheat. He used a different material to enhance the flow of water. If you use a weep hole sheild witch is a plastic ring that goes around the drain you get the same effect.
@@ryancoulter7681 he cheated because he used an *outdoor landscape mat* that is not meant for showers and no one uses, so his experiment was void of real life applications...the plastic weep hole protector wouldn't have nearly the same effect.
Bob in all reality everyone uses a topical membrane anymore. And Issac used a Schluter product that is available to anyone for his drainage mat. So it is realistic to do so. They do things differently on the west coast. I use a bit of this and a bit of that depending on the need or want.
@@ryancoulter7681 I would agree that modifying methods is not a bad thing, I do it all the time, but in this situation I had gone to the tile store I deal with and the product is extremely expensive and it comes in a huge roll that you must buy all of it for because again it is an outdoor application... it was never meant to go on your shower pan liner , that's the point I was trying to make, and because it is not meant for such an application I doubt people like Isaac actually using it because they are book soldiers and do everything by rules.. but to make his experiment believable he had to use something to get the water to escape so quickly.
The old ways are just that imo Bob. Hydroban, redgard, aquadefense, kerdi, wedi, ardex 8+9, ect. These are the new ways of doing showers. Pan liners and weeping showers are a thing of the past. Now need for them anymore. If I were you I'd stop even buying the liner. It's really not needed anymore. But use a bonding flange drain instead of the three piece. I challenge you to show a new video with this application. I've used it for years and never had a failure. Plus the manufacturer backs it if installed correctly. Go outside your comfort zone and give it a try. You will like it and it will speed up your process without compromising it. Take the challenge man. I look forward to your thoughts.
background music while you are talking was very distracting to someone who is trying to concentrate and listen to you
So you and issac have shown how a shower pan is made and design to work and all of your shower builds do not seem to have any common sense built upon them.Seems to me great tile guy but you do not have the right way to lead water where you want it to go.And yes I build showers professionally and will never ever put any redguard in my shower base or seal the redguard with the shower walls to the shower pan because you go completely against how a shower pan is designed to work.
Gloria is it ???
And you've built for how long ?
As for me going back to 1998, every time I tear apart a shower I find the failure and mitigate those failures any way I choose to... and Common Sense rules my day... Isaac is a book Soldier which is why he's had multiple failures on his channel, common sense isn't common.
Be that as it may, everybody who bills showers waterproof whether it's a liquid topical membrane or Kerdi membrane or some other way to waterproof their walls and their floor, the water in water out system is a fading and archaic method.
Look up the 100 year shower in the search box on YT...nuff said after I posted THAT video 👌👍