Whaly Boat USA 455 and Yamaha 50 - Review
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- Опубліковано 19 кві 2022
- Extremely tough, unsinkable, and no pontoons to keep patched and inflated. Give Kern or Kyle a call and talk to them about the last dingy replacement you will ever need to make. Tell them you saw it on SV Seeker.
WhalyBoatsUSA.com
Kern Stakes 337-212-4321
Kyle Stakes 337-739-6100
WhalyBoatsGulfCoast@gmail.com
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[ Music ]
"Trickin Pickin" preformed by Doug Waterman
I,m a professional now retired, --- USE THE KILL CORD ---
Put a loop in the end and slip it on your wrist.
If you get knocked out of the boat the rotation of the crank and engine will put it hard over, and it will come around and get you.
As so many youtubers you forgot the first instruction in your outboard manual.
Use the red kill switch cord, it is a life saver.
Doug, I love your project and your attitude to life. Please, Please wear the kill switch cord when driving, especially if you are alone. If you fall out you can guarantee the Whaly will come right round and back at you. I have seen the injuries and I know of some deaths, here in OZ. Stay safe mate, so we can continue to enjoy and follow your journey.
Make a spreader bar for the front and back. Will eliminate height issue and forces from pulling inward. The tight angle increases the load tremendously. It really needs bow thrusters 👀
☝️
exactly. Just a low little gambrel at each end which would put the hoist webbing within a foot of the boat.
That would get it high enough above the transom to swing out a pair of arms for it to set on and then lower it back down.
No need to cut sliding rods into the boat.
Totaly agree !
My thoughts exactly.
Probably will tilt alot on rough seas, which is difficult incase of emergency.
I'm sure someone else has probably mentioned this, it looks like the Whaly is light in the bow when on a plane with just one person on board. With passengers or cargo it's probably not too much of an issue, but you might want to look into getting a set of hydrofoil fins to go on the outboard. Keeping the bow down will help immensely with rough weather handling, it's less likely to get picked up by the wind, plus it gives you a last line of defense against lines in the water, they've saved my rear more than once with crab pots in the Chesapeake.
Whale fin for whally boat
That will make a huge difference.
☝️
👍 yes install a Doel-Fin on the outboard motor, that is a must.
And just moved fuel tank to the front, would be my first course of action.
Hey Dough, I had the same problem needing a counterweight in front of my boat. I found the Hydrofoil 400 SE solving my problem on my 60hp Yamaha. Front down and very early starting to plane! 100 € invested at german amaz….👍 Works great!
Congrats SV Seeker on getting the Whaly ropes strighten out. Whaly Boat looks Great behind ur Boat.
Plastic cold flows so you will always have trouble with those lift holes and you've got the weight of that 40 hp outboard. Use two straps under the dingy with a longitudinal spreader. Lift with the strap and use the holes to tie the dingy off against bow and stern movement.
I'm having almost as much fun as you watching you have fun. by the way my experience with kayaks made of the same material as your Whaley boat, a heat gun will repair scratches and cuts. For more serious damages it can be plastic welded.
303 aerospace Uv protectant is what we coat our outdoor plastic furniture and kayaks.
Looks like a lot of fun!
You can use 303 marine protectant on your 455 insert aluminum sleeves to protect the Lifting points on your 455 . I love that boat.
Having a foil on the motor helps a lot on that setup. At least a big difference on my 500r with 60hp. Love the Whaly!
There are horizontal hydra foil wings you can attach to the cavitation plate of the lower unit. They make an amazing difference to performance generally but in particular to planing at low speed and getting the bow down without having to have a gorilla up there. The foils lift the back end of the boat. Makes trim and tilt extremely effective as well at all speeds. I hope you read this. Absolute "must have" will increase your performance 1,000 percent.
Some of that nylon strap and a couple of spreader bars to use as cradles would relieve any stress from those hard points that WILL break eventually in hard seas. With spread cradles you can drive right into them from port or starboard and the dinghy can be pulled up and stored face against the stern if needed.
No oil, Doh!
Check the height of the motor on the transom. Typically you want the anti-ventilation plate even with or slightly higher than the center rib of the boat. If the motor is too low it will can create excess bow lift. Also, if you can raise it 1 or 2 homes higher on the transom that will give your tiller more clearance.
Hey doug, that thing you guys found on the beach is a high voltage insulator, to support conductor on a pole. The bottom screws onto a steel pin and the groove is where the wire sits. Then it gets tied to the insulator with soft drawn alum or copper
You should look down by the prop for the Trim tab. Most outboards have them, this can be adjusted so that when the boat is riding in the water it will keep the motor straight if it tends to fall to the same side all the time. Also a Hydrofoil will help with the bouncing. The Hydro foil will give the electric trim more purchase when you are adjusting it. They also say it helps with a lot more, I cannot verify that but I use one and it is a big help when trimming the motor for keeping the boat flat on the water at speed.
Get a SE Sport 300 hydrofoil for the outboard. It will allow you to trim the motor to help hold the bow down. It will improve the ride a lot.
Hi SV SEEKER,
I'm watching all your videos.
In reference to your red tender,
to avoid damaging the bow,
crawling on the water's edge,
you can apply an aluminum foil,
and use rivets together with sikaflex to fix it.
I'm not even telling you that the aluminum foil could be customized. Too easy!
Very nice.
Soon.
Antonio
That was a plastic high voltage insulator that would screw onto a cross arm insulator pin, on a power pole. That one was in bad shape, they're usually all smooth and light gray. The high voltage conductor would lay in the grove on the top and get tied down with aluminum wire.
We boys love the toys! Doug your smile was worth whatever it cost you !
Dave playing with his newest toy. I love it!
Yes I'd also like to add my many thank you's to people who have taken the time and made the effort to upload knowledge clips, or how to clips. I can't tell you how many thousands of dollars I've saved by fixing stuff I had no idea how to go about it. Not to mention the learning I've gained.
Exactly. Classroom on demand.
shackles and a spreader bar so you lift straight up on the connection points of the Whaly. Also a shackle to connect directly to the spreader bar from the lifting davit. shortest possible connections that way.
Hi Doug,
Not sure if anyone notice thus but I noticed you adjusted the trim of the motor so it was all the way down.
This will help with getting it onto the plane but then it needs to be adjusted back up once you're there, this will then help push the bow down, which will reduce the "slapping"
Regards
That's a cool little boat . Like the design like an amphibious landing ship
That should be a great fishing setup! I assume they had it in mind when designing that boat! Especially with that motor! I hope someone takes advantage of that boat and does some fishing on it!
Looks like a fun little tender.
Good to see a guy enjoying the fruits of his hard labor.
Man, I love that little boat. It was great to see you out on the water again. Notice you didn't get sea sick on the river.
Ha! It takes a bit more than that. : ) Heading back to sea next week for another sea sickness trail run. I got a bag stuffed with snake oils.
@@SVSeeker steel or plastic, your approch will be as unique as you are
@@SVSeeker Ginger chews. Failing that, tramadol. If you suffer from GERD reflux, add Pariet 10mg.
Doug, The shackle will help, but I highly recommend re-enforcing the entire shackle area with a custom Stainless shackle support. You can actually screw into the HDPE or Rivnut into the HDPE of the boat. This will apply stress to multiple areas and reduce spot loading. Besides, it would make for a great video! Also a custom stainless spreader bar on the front and back shackle points would reduce the load as well.
Exactly, a spreader bar is safest way to go.
Second on the spreader, connect right to the shackles and gives plenty of height.
Love that boat.
Yes, no doubt the spreader bar will make for a better lifting arrangement in calm water but will have the potential to become a head knocker or to capsize the boat when trying to launch or recover in any sea condition other than dead calm.. Seeker with be pitching and rolling differently than the little boat and the spreader bar arrangement will require 4 connections to be released or made up before depending on the operation while being dragged along.. This will create a bad situation for the Coxswain. I don’t know if it is feasible but you should check out the FRC (Fast Rescue Craft) on merchant ship and offshore platforms (any vessel that uses Free Fall Lifeboats). This design uses a single point lifting bridle that requires just one connection to made. ua-cam.com/video/N_REUOkgxyI/v-deo.html may provide some ideas.
You can also WELD on it. With a hot air welder.
@@2pi628 Yeap i was thinking that as well.
on your shakle for the tender lifting eyes.... make sure you add a bushing for the crossbolt to avoid material fatique & chafe !!
*Swing arm boat cradle*
Good idea! 👍
I saw a tender on the sailing nahoa channel where a bloke was making tenders and plenty of other things out of a plastic mix that easily withstood a massive strike from a sledgehammer,a wheelchair for on sand was one of his other designs.
It was run thru a cad and computer,interesting stuff.good luck
I grew up in a small town in Fl on the Gulf coast. When I turned 16 (and might've done it 1 or 2 times b4, don't tell anyone ;-). I'd take my little 14' flat bottom aluminum boat with an old 18hp Evinrude out, put it in the fresh water and in 15 minutes be out in the Gulf fishing... This was back in the late 70's & early 80's b4 the manatees became a thing and all the rivers had idle speed limits. We used to call the manatees speed bumps!! Never had trash like that down there, but I bet thats changed too. I miss the good old days... Safe travels sir!!!
Doug was having so much fun with the Whaly - I think Seeker was jealous :-)
For rigging, the forces on an attachment point for a rigging wire being off vertical is not a linear increase, it is closer to parabolic.
The forces on a point with the wire at vertical are incredibly high with a sling that is off angle more than 45 degrees.
In rigging the general rule is no more than 30 degrees, especially with something that will see continuous loading like your tender.
The solution to this is to use a spreader bar to spread the rope/wires out with a shallow angle and let that take a compression load instead of your attachment points being under tension.
Yeah, I think we learned that on swing sets, but they have likely removed those from all schools. : )
Adjust the engine trim to get the bow down. Some boats I use plastic collapsible water jugs for weight up front when alone and empty them when I have passengers.
When I worked in AK "blue steel" rope was the go to. Very tough. Low stretch. Abrasion resistant. Lol in the 10 years since I've left I've dreamed of someday buying myself a spool.
I would fabricate a 1/8" sheet metal cover for those lifting points to take the stress off of the plastic. You should be able to bend something up and weld where have to. Once that is made your lifting shackles should go thru the plastic like now and the metal cover. In fastening the metal I would use a combination of adhesive and screws or rivets. That combination of glue and mechanical is hard to beat.
For that boat also they make a longer tiller handle where you could sit further up and plane the boat out.
Nice review on your tender.
Thanks!
You can drill a hole straight through the bolts and drill a hole in the head of the bolt and thread it so you can put a grease nipple in the bolt. When it comes to regular maintenance make it easy or it wont get done.
Love the Whaly
Doug, you might consider a hydrofoil stabilizer to help trim your boat, you wont need to add weight to your bow. they work great for smaller boats to keep the bows down like a set of trim tabs. Cheers Brian
You were wondering about the top end and bow rising……looks like the motor is too deep in the water……motor cavitation plate should be 1” above the keel (or bottom of boat)……if motor is to deep it will create bow rise due to cantilever pressure of the thrust…..raising the motor will reduce the cantilever amount
Loved you smile while motoring along. A true sign of happiness.
That’s a pretty cool rig.
While you were talking about the planer boards it took me back in time to when I would use them for diving for lobster down the the FL Keys. It’s hands down the fastest why to the bottom.
All the Best
Tim
Use the shackles through the boat . And a bar attached to the shackles with a small chain the weld large tabs to the center of the bar with a hole and attach the strap with shackles to the bar and you could bring it right up to the guides. I would replace the straps with winch rope and and snatch blocks from the lifting point also might track better
Like a kid at Christmas :) Well done!
Load it up with OB on your gang plank side and you can fresh water flush it while hoisted! Sweet setup
My suggestion for your Davit lifting is to actually sew a second canvas strap into your lifting system with a length set such that you are lifting all 4 points using your canvas straps. It will take the boat higher and also be less dependent on rope etc. In rough weather you will end up a little higher. Also for your placing of metal bars under the boat why not have them set on a rotating system so a single central winch can lift both out of the way. For example when lifted out of the way they are at a similar position to the davits and when dropped go out and around under the boat. add a chain to the end of each and up over boat means boat is chained down as well. Beauty of rotating it down into position is you can have it designed to match boat contours in order to be more supportive. other option is a straight drop down but that would need hydraulics I think.
When running in the ocean, you could turn it around when hoisting so its easier to use the ramp to get the flush muff on.
Want one of these so bad! ❤️
They're not good, balance is the issue, nose diving once u have few ppl on board
If you put a dole fin on the cavitation plate it will help with the bouncing it gives the motor more force to lower the bow.
You can adjust the trim to keep it from porpoising with low weight in the bow, my 16 foot inboard v hull does the same. Also if youre going boating in shallow rivers or lakes Id consider popping the aluminum prop on, if it strikes a rock itll deform way easier than SS and not transmit all that shock force to the gears. Gear sets are pretty spendy so losing 3-5% of your top speed is cheap insurance.
I run a 3.1 meter inflatable weighing 46kg with the two stroke Mercury 30hp. Goes like a scalded cat, near 40 knots in flat water. A good tip for steering damping is install a motorcycle steering damper on the outboard, get an adjustable one so you can tune it. Makes it a bit safer for inexperienced crew wanting to open the thing up and getting a tank slapper. Greetings from a boat in New Zealand.....
Careful most manufacturers recommend not using above a 20hp on small inflatables
When you come to a fast stop, turn hard to port or starboard at the last minute, it will stop the well flooding as the stern wave catches up with you.
That front drop opening on the Whaly can storm the beach at Normandy.
i love this boat, looks like a lil higgins boat
Cool little boat. I’m thinking ultimately your probably going to rig a under hull strap sling for extended davit stays and in transit. Unfortunately I don’t see the roto plastic holding up at the 4 solo hoist points just due to point loading on the small area the bridle puts most of its load. The opening bow door is brilliant.
And it's most likely going to fail while underway in rough seas, at night and in heavy rain.
I would sleeve those holes as well, with either bronze or nylon and glue it in place.
Doug make you an aluminum spreader bar for the whaly boat . Like they used to lift sealer. It will solve all your problems. Straight lift on Whaley's eyes. Will shorten your lift by taking the y of your bridle away.
Yeah, we're talking about something like that to get her up higher for transit.
A idea to stop the whaly from Porpoising would be to install hydrofoil on the motor it will help with hole shot and stability at speed
Cheers Tom
That is a sweet looking tender! One thing I'd consider right away is to make it's keel a little more bulletproof for beach (& other surface) landings most forgiving of which would be soft mud. Kayaks use a piece of 2" PVC but even metal keel guards shaped & molded to bow's keel right under pad-eye to protect that rounded transitional part that will take brunt of impact when coming ashore with momentum of boat's speed & full weight. It will prevent deep gouges in material that will erode away the keel over time & if allowed to get bad enough wear a hole clean through it right there..
We'll see. I'll need to see a deep gouge first.
Use a spreader bar to hold the rope apart so the last bit to the whsley boat is straight.
True, though a shackle like he mentioned would be almost as good, and a lot lighter.
Effective April 1, 2021, the new law requires a vessel operator to use either a helm or outboard lanyard or wireless ECOS on certain vessels less than 26 feet when traveling on plane or above displacement speed.
It’s a great law for fools.
@@SVSeeker so.....a majority of the masses?
@@Chris-ho6uf HA! Love that! Got one on my main engine that I need to wire up. And yes I am a FOOL, just like everyone else. My magical power is that I know it and I'm good with it. : ) It's the poor slobs that can't embrace their failure that are slaves to public opinion.
@@SVSeeker it is yes but remember the boat turns into a raging a hole if you fall out without, where it will spin in circles continually striking the person that fell out until it runs out of fuel,
@@vxnova1 True, I have seen this happen twice. Both times the boat kept circling until it hit something like a boat or dock. Luckily both times the operator was able to get away with no major injuries. An unexpected wave or boat wake can do it even to smart and non-inebriated folks.
You can also use a spreader bar to space the lines out; and raise the level.
Yeah, that's what we've been talking about.
Got to make sure the pucker is in tip top condition. All sewn up by an expert needle worker. Magnetis ass! neat idea. great video 2x👍
If you can try to change the trim on the engine to get the nose more pointing down. Once on a plane you can straighten it. If that doesnt work you could try putting the battery and fuel tank to the nose or installing a hydrofoil or trim tabs.
I'm pretty sure we had it pitched all the way down.
Build a bar that goes across like a spreader at the hole in your poly boat tabs on the bar with quick attach pins put a shackle in the middle of the bar bring your flat straps all the way down the the bar.
and put Stainless steel sleeve in the poly boat holes to stop wear.
Love the drawbridge bow yet reminds me of one the Geougeon brothers built a Florida shallow cruiser built on two rowing shells that had a drop down forward loading/unloading ramp. It drew 6” and had a big prop Yamaha on a hydraulic system so that it could be raised out of the water halfway.
That 50 horsepower should make that thing freakin scoot! Can’t wait until break in is done!
Been following your boat build for a few years now. My family and I stopped by over the weekend briefly,we live in the area and was admiring your boat (from a distance). Its even more impressive in person.
We saw you in town and I was telling my wife and daughter about your channel and they wanted to see it.
Consider a spreader bar on the boat lift so it lifts up instead of pinching inward.
Just use a couple of light weight spreader bars for the tender much kinder to the boat simple and easy
I sure like the bow on that tender. Makes loading it easy. Big fish, a deer, a skid.
...a diver, someone who did not hold on. : )
@@SVSeeker No kidding. Most don't realise that if you go overboard it take a long time to 'circle back'.
Great video
Enjoying the ACE hardware store
I haven't followed you for very long, but I have to say this journey of yours is fascinating! I just wish I had the resources to do something like this! Since I don't, I'll enjoy it through you.
Lookin good Doug 👍✅
If you want to put a rod between the rope mounts, you could add a pipe, maybe weld washers on the ends of the pipe to spread the load
Having the pipe would mean you could weld a crossbar with a central eye for lifting, also can be used as a grab bar
Yeah, I like the crossbar idea. Maybe we could use the same attachment points. Good idea.
Take a piece of PVC pipe about 2.5 ft it need an inside diameter the same as the end of the tiller. Make 4 cuts lengthways so you can push the PVC over the tiller. Secure the PVC with a stainless steel hose clamp. I then inserted an old oak broom handle in the end and secured it with some 5200. This will allow you to move forward a but and also stand up. Those fins that fit on the lower engine wings will help you to plane faster. The broom handle reduces the diameter of the tiller so it's more confortable. Have fun always.
GREAT attitude on travel. You're 1000% right.
The zerks are to grease the cable steer system that it can be mounted with
Grease Nipple
Adding my two cents if you use two spreader bars you can raise the tender up higher and it will be safer. Again suggest safety chains. I'm sure you notice that d-ring is going to abrading that rope. Of course you still have to haul the tender up against the stern with bumpers. You don't want to lose that nice tender in a storm. Thanks so much for the awesome content.
Yeah we're talking about bars to get it up higher for transit.
@@SVSeeker Yeah a bit higher and it's easier to load just in case.
Used to rig whaly’s at my old work, they’re rugged as hell and can hack a load of abuse but don’t expect stellar hull performance or ride as the plastic does move and flex. That and the shallow v means an “industrial” ride.
The nose up launch with 1 POB is normal as the weights a long way back with a tiller and won’t be a lot you can do to avoid it
That's cool. It's not the speed I care about.
Hi love your work, I live in Perth Western Australia. May I Suggest you put a stingray on your Yamaha outboard motor. A stingray is a attachment you put to the bottom of your motor that helps hold the front of your boat down. Making your boat run level of just one person in it
When you are alone you can trim that motor up and hold the front down. But bringing a friend is fun also.
Your tender has nearly twice the power of my whole sailboat!
We'll make use of it.
Socket man made the video!!! How about fell out of my chair when I saw him. Thanks a lot man!! 22:32
He needs a socket dog now. : )
imho, turn the eyes over on the winch straps so the flat part is in the strap, round part to the ropes. Put the SS bar in/across the boat and weld a couple eyes on it so it won't pull to the center and will just lift up the boat.
the grease zerks are on the friction plate to grease the push rod for cable steering, you dont need to grease it since you are using the tiller. if you where using a steering wheel you wouldn't have the friction plate and just have the zerks
Anyone bawking at the price of the motor has never shopped for an outboard motor before lol. Yamaha makes the best outboard motors on the planet they work in any conditions no matter what and will not fail because they can't fail.
Long spreader bars can be attached to stern in the down position
You should make a spreader bar a hook on each end by using a pipe you are able to have a slider pipe inside to lock it the railing
Gas tank in the front has a double effect by moving center of gravity forward without adding weight.
You need a spacer bar at the bottom of both of the triangles where you attach the boat to the pulley. The way you have it Right now is like a clamping stress, as the boat bounces around the weight will pull the sides closed like a hotdog bun. I know you said you were going to implement some kind of underside support but it is something that will help now and even after you the supports in place.
That's actually one of my next task, but it's to get the boat higher out of the water to avoid storm waves. We routinely lift the boat with 500 pounds of passengers and gear. It's a tough boat. Well worth the money.
This was a good video
Hauling the tender out of the water is one task. Securing it for under way is the next. The lift points need to be able to carry the load in sea conditions without damage. I suggest first using stainless tubing to span two sets of holes, plus threaded rod inside them. Cut your spreader bar to follow the upper gunwhale profile and hook them onto your SS lifting point bars. They need to be tensioned tight onto the hull, solid. Then winch up as you like. The spreader bars need to slid into steel brackets on your David’s, and lock the whole package tight for sea. Solid and simple. Love the work you men have done. Fair winds to you all. Edit…. This will eliminate your winching stop points, since the spreader bar will be a natural stop. A couple of captive through-bolts will secure the spreader bar to the davit brackets, so you can unload the winch too, once you are done lifting. The spreader bars are easily fashioned from timber 6x2, and easy to shape for the hull cutouts
Absolutely. The current system is going to result in the tender being lost, and probably under the worst conditions. (Rough seas, at night, in the cold, and in the rain.)