Nice video. You will probably get a people telling you it won't work My wife and I did our apron in front of shop 15 x 20 we done ours in sections. It came out great. We drive our Toyota Sienna on it all the time. No problem it's a year old now. We learned about dry pour from Cajun country and are glad we did😊. We also put the wire in for reinforcement one of the things I liked was as being able to put the reinforcement exactly where it needed to be.
So far it's been great! This summer will be a year and not a single problem with either pad. Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment. We love hearing from people.
@@simpleacrehomestead your welcome our dry pour is talked about and pictures at about the 21 or 22 minute mark on Cajun country last dry pour about 2 weeks ago. If you are interested my wife and I wished we would have known about dry pour 40 years ago. Would have saved us a lot of work and we would have got better results not everyone can finish concrete in a timely manner. and at age 69 and more than a little overweight my hurry up days are gone.
@@simpleacrehomestead We will probably have four or five for Greenhouse, Henhouse and Storage by the time we are done - looking forward to having a solid surface to stand on and ROLL carts and dollies across!!
That will be nice. I have still have an existing hen house to do when I finally get around to it. Not sure how it will turn out with the building already in place. Harder to smooth things out with the walls in the way 😁
Thank you for commenting. Yes I wanted to make sure to have enough water getting into the slab. It's been close to a year and I am still super happy with these 2 pad foundations. Thank you for watching.
I don't know how far you live from a concrete delivery service but my experience has been, if you pour more than a 1/2 a yard of concrete you will spend far more on bags of Quikcrete than having it delivered.
Brother-Inlaw sure knew how to cut open the bags: Slice in the center, flip the bag, lift up the ends, and out it pours! He's also wearing a concrete dust mask - Roy is a smart "helper", and Cindy a great Camera woman!
I think what you did putting lot moisture after gravel before pouring in dry concrete is the WAY TO GO WITH THIS DRY POUR to make it stronger and less porous.
Nice job...looks great. I plan on doing a carport pad that is 16 x 20. I am going to do it in two sections and once I get the first section done, I will remove the form that would be against the next section and place a rubber wall cove base. This will actually give me two 16 x 10 pads with the rubber embedded between. I hope this will reduce the chance of cracking, along with the support of the added rebar.
I did a dry pour over the weekend. I personally think mixing with water in a wheel barrel first is less work. Because the gravel is very difficult to work down unless you want the exposed aggregate look.
Very Nice! Would suggest a footer around the perimeter with 1/4 inch rebar to go along with the mesh! Now try it again with a little mixer and a wheel barrow! Screed it as you go and set the anchors at the same time! This way the concrete will truly meld with the wonderful aggregate you put underneath! Then, after it sets, put the the sprinkler on it for a few days!
subscribed and liked. You're one of the few youtubers who has done a dry pour in a non-southern USA climate. I am in NW Ohio and would like to do a dry pour but we have some serious freeze/thaw cycles. Have you done other dry pours up there in CA? How old are they? Any update videos? THanks a lot!
Hi and thank you for your support. I have not done any other dry pours before other than fence posts. We did both pads this year and have built mini barns on them. I made sure to put 4+ inches of gravel under them to allow for drainage so I am hoping not to have any issues. So far it has been great but this winter will be the true test.
@@simpleacrehomestead very nice. Looking forward to more of your videos and I hope your slab will be OK! Never mind the nay sayers... they're traditionalists who are probably not even in the trade but they want to chirp up like their opinion holds weight. I have asked several of these negative nancy's for their published papers on the strength and consistencies of dry-pours. ... like, how do they know what PSI it cures at... WHEN does it cure, ... how did they test it, what brand did they test, was it a controlled environment,... etc... and would you believe it, NONE OF THEM had any responses. :/
Thank you Bill we appreciate the positive feedback. As you likely noticed in the comments the opinions very greatly. We hope you enjoy our videos. ~Bert
what I did was soaked the gravel really well before starting to pour the bags. I did not spray any layers. I didn't want to chance creating any inconsistency in between.
I think you are probably right, problem we had was the location. We couldn't get trucks in unless they went through the neighbours clay field. It just seemed to risky with the wet weather. Thank you for watching.
As a licensed builder and former concrete inspector...I was never a fan of dry pour. It's fine for a shed I suppose, but I've seen failures. You can never be sure there aren't pockets below the surface that didn't fully hydrate.
Thank you very much for watching and commenting. Yes I suggest everyone does there own homework. I am hoping for a shed it will stand the test of time 🙂
@@simpleacrehomestead I could pour a pad that size off the truck start at 7 an be back home at 12 an be alot stronger pad an definitely faster an for sure where I'm from way cheaper
Extended my driveway 3’ wide by 40’ long both sides. Was reinforced. Been 6 years not one crack, the original wet poured drive way has several cracks! Go figure..
If you water correctly, you can indeed be sure it is fully hydrated. Careful, gradual, even watering is the key. You should do it more systematically than he does here. And I always use a garden mister. But take the approach like you are spray painting the slab with water. One watering per 1/2 of slab, 30 minutes apart. Avoid letting any water stand on the surface. I believe it is best to use a mist spray for every watering and not try to soak it at the end. Doing it this way it migrates down very evenly. Migrates down about 3/4 inch in each watering and then slows, That's when you do the next watering. Start the next watering 30 minutes after starting the previous. Move the same direction each time and like you are spay painting. I have tested this in test forms of clear material, it is amazing how evenly it migrates down, all he way to the bottom, Don't cheat the schedule and don't get any water collecting on the surface. It's quite easy but stay systematic. If you just spray randomly, it will be harder to get even absorption. You'll have part wetter which will migrate down unevenly And I do not prewet. You do not want water to wick up. Wei from op down and cure from top down, Pre-watering woks against that, Doing wet pour, yes prewet but NOT on dry pour. n my testing I actually measured my watering volume accurately, Total water was only slightly more than minimum recommended water. A dryer mix makes a stronger slab because the materials don't settle and stay more uniform. Rather than sifting fines, you ca easily make your own fines with one part Portland and two parts sand, mixed. Scatter it on evenly and then paint roll. It is fully compatible with the concrete mix, DO NOT USE MORTAR MIX as a few guy recommend. It has lime and other components in it. The absorption rate and cure rate are different than the concrete, If you get freezing weather it ont stay well bonded to the slab, mortar mix is pricey too. For this size slab, a 5 gallon bucket of homemade dry fines, will be more than enough to improve the surface,
Hi Devin, I am trying to remember back to when I did them. I believe the gravel would have been about. 3 inches. It is just a "crushed gravel with fines" Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. We hope you will continue to follow.
Its definately not that simple. A smaller pad would be so much easier and then as long as you have enough material ahead of the 2x4 it will push most of the stones out of the way but it gets hard to push alot of material over that 10ft wide span that we were doing. I hope that helps to make sense of it ☺️ ~Bert
I don't think it is. For us it was more about location. I didn't say in the video but trucks couldn't get into this area. It would have been cheaper to have them poor it as well. This just shows another option 😁. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
@@simpleacrehomestead I have a harbor freight mixer and it mixes very well and quickly. We’ve used it around the farm to pour footing and big pours like yours. You lost me at the sifting. Based on this and other videos it looks like the effort is less with an electric mixer. Good job of presenting your content.
I'm very interested in the dry poor method and this video was a great start, but why wouldn't you do a follow-up video of how it turned out? Also, would have been nice to see your calculation on how many bags to use vs actual bags used. Thx
Hi LC, Thank you for watching the video. If you need to know how many bags to use I just referred to one of the online calculators.. you type in your dimensions and how thick of a pad and you will get your answer. ***www.quikrete.com/calculator/main.asp#concrete.*** As far as a follow up, if you follow along you will get a glimpse of the floors. I am in the process of building the barns on them now and have released a couple of videos on that topic if you care to follow along. But overall I am happy with how it turned out. If you give it a try I want to stress to spend plenty of time on getting the surface the way you want it to look because that will be your final result. I hope this helps 😊
Interesting way of doing a slab. Ive only done small slabs by mixing in wheelbarrow and its a good bit of work. I just wonder how strong a slab like this will get. Since its just a shed it probably wont matter. You could always just use CR6 gravel which has stone dust in it and it compacts with a tamper and it get hard. They use it for a base on highways or just regular gravel driveways.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes I am hoping since it's only a little barn that it won't be a issue. Interesting idea about the gravel.
I guess if you like labor and money is no problem this might be way to go. having a remix truck deliver 10 yards cost is about $1400 for 10 yards. bags of sakrete cost is at least 1/3 more
Hi and thank you for watching. For the extra 20 dollars they sell for here it would have probably been a easier fix. It was more a case of trying to save a couple bucks by using what I had in storage.
Thank you for watching and enquiring. The 1st pad I did 4 weeks ago and the 2nd almost 2 weeks. So far no cracking. As far as strength I don't see it being a issue since I won't be driving on them but I will keep you posted. I hope to start framing the 2 small Barns this weekend.
Hi Mi Sm I am not sure how to attach photos on a response otherwise I have no problem sharing. What I can do later this afternoon is post a close up on my community tab. I would describe the surface as a textured sand feel. Please subscribe and watch our community tab later today.
Wouldnt it be easier to just order a concrete truck and have him back up and pour it? You made a neat contraption with a roller, but they make a bull float that does the same thing. It has to be cheaper to buy concete by the truck than by the bag???? Idk.... seams like more work
Hi Frank, you are right. The truck would have been cheaper and likely easier. The location didn't allow truck access on our property (too many obstacles and septic tiles). The easy access would have been through the neighbouring crop field but the risk of getting stuck in the clay just seemed to high.
Yes I used them on the first form. The second one I didn't find it as necessary. Without being premixed you don't have the weight pushing out the way you would with a wet form.
Where we are I needed to use gravel for drainage to avoid freezing below the cement which would cause the pad to shift and potentially crack. But what I did is heavily watered the gravel to give the concrete moisture to pull from. 😊. Thank you very much for watching and taking the time to comment.
Thank you for watching and commenting. We used this method because of the location. The trucks didn't have access to do a pour. I had also seen it done before and wanted to give it a try 😊
While I appreciate you taking the time to film your process, I would have Ike to see less of you sitting there with the hose in your hand and some good close up shots of you putting the anchors in and more close up shot of what the concrete looked like at the end of each stage and then of course the final product up close.
Yes it would have been cheaper. This question has come up a few times and you are right. The issue we had was accessibility. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I have actually heard of others doing that. For these barns the finish was good enough for me since they will likely see animal traffic. But the mortar finish might be nice for exposed patios etc.
@@randythomas3478 There are several videos where they use mortar mix for the final top layer...and it works very well ... absolutely smooth finish. You may want to check it out.
Thank you for watching and commenting. As explained in previous comments the location didn't allow a mixing truck access. When we priced it out it was cheaper just not an option.
@@simpleacrehomestead you gotta do what you have to. Im curious how the surface holds up. Most of the surface hardness and wear ability comes from the ability to bring the cement to the surface and consolidate with a trowel. Im guess its not going to be high traffic.
@@dennisyurconis742 very low traffic, if you watch the next video I start building the little barns on the pads. One will house rabbits and Quail and the other will house goats in the winter ☺
It's funny, you are getting about 1500-2000psi. The "experts" condemn your method and demand you need 5000psi, but had you used asphalt with it's max 200psi, nobody would have said anything. Well done.
Yes I had the hardware store deliver the bags. It would have taken alot of trips to get them with my truck due to the weight. Paying for delivery just made sense in my situation.
I’m thought of updating the graven pad in my shelter logic 14x32 to be cement, but after calculations I would need 300 bags at 60 pounds each, I looked it up and there are only ~50 bags to a pallet so I’d need 6 pallets😂. I can’t imagine doing all that work, parts $1,000. Idk how much a cement truck would cost, but O could use another pad around the fire pit, change my patio from stone and also a new driveway. Maybe I should just build up some finishing experience before doing my driveway.
@@BWeezy-sw1wy If a truck can get into the spot I think it would be cheaper. For us it cost about 900 dollars for each pad. It would have been about 200 dollars less for each pad if the truck would have been able to get into our location. Good luck with your decision and thanks so much for watching :)
Thanks for watching and commenting. You could very well be correct. I have no experience with wet poor. I know that in my area it would have been cheaper to have a truck come but it wouldn't be able to get to our location. The other concern was I didn't feel confident that I could mix it fast enough by hand. At the end of the day this seemed like the easier solution for what I needed.
I get it now. That does make sense and it can get very expensive for a truck with just that much concrete. I been working with concrete for 30 Year's. It is expensive to hire guys to help you even when it's free for the help. You got drink's, food and I'm sure you would want to pay them a little still for there help because you come out as a nice person. I hope it all came out well for you to build the shed on. Good job tho for being dry concrete. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 👍
Guys dont try this dry crap....i did 3 jobs using dry pour..they all are weak as f. Also i gave twice more cement then i would use concrete mixer...just take little concrete mixer and work with shovel and you will get great result.
You watch one dry pour video and that’s all you see recommended. I think this is probably ok for a small- nope not even. Anyway if you insist on this method why not wet the pad before putting the mix down to help with hydration on the bottom. Still it seems much easier instead of moving 100 bag’s around and choking on dust call a truck, do it the right way and pour out your pad in 15 minutes. If you know how to do concrete this just looks so miserable
Thanks! Excellent video, subscribed
Thank you so much! We are happy to have you join us! 😊
Nice video. You will probably get a people telling you it won't work
My wife and I did our apron in front of shop 15 x 20 we done ours in sections. It came out great. We drive our Toyota Sienna on it all the time. No problem it's a year old now. We learned about dry pour from Cajun country and are glad we did😊. We also put the wire in for reinforcement one of the things I liked was as being able to put the reinforcement exactly where it needed to be.
So far it's been great! This summer will be a year and not a single problem with either pad.
Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment. We love hearing from people.
@@simpleacrehomestead your welcome our dry pour is talked about and pictures at about the 21 or 22 minute mark on Cajun country last dry pour about 2 weeks ago. If you are interested my wife and I wished we would have known about dry pour 40 years ago. Would have saved us a lot of work and we would have got better results not everyone can finish concrete in a timely manner. and at age 69 and more than a little overweight my hurry up days are gone.
Very cool. I will check that out for sure 😁
@stevecarney6750 Just checked out their video.. They did a great Job, and by the looks of your pictures so did you.
@@simpleacrehomestead thanks
FINALLY, someone puts a rebar in!
💯 thank you for taking the time to comment 😊
@@simpleacrehomestead thinking to run mesh + rebar on our pad as well. Great video! Thank you for posting!
Thank you for the positive feedback. It is much appreciated. I hope your pad turns out well. I am still very happy with the 2 we did.
@@simpleacrehomestead We will probably have four or five for Greenhouse, Henhouse and Storage by the time we are done - looking forward to having a solid surface to stand on and ROLL carts and dollies across!!
That will be nice. I have still have an existing hen house to do when I finally get around to it. Not sure how it will turn out with the building already in place. Harder to smooth things out with the walls in the way 😁
Just did a dry pour and first mist. Wish I watched this first for the paint roller trick, never as easy as these guys make it look!
Thank you for taking the time to come back and leave feedback 🙂. I hope it turned out.
and the Water wicking up from the bottom, another great tip!
Thank you for commenting. Yes I wanted to make sure to have enough water getting into the slab. It's been close to a year and I am still super happy with these 2 pad foundations. Thank you for watching.
Looks very nice🥰🥰🥰🥰
Thank you so much 😊
Can't wait to see the results 😊
Thank you for watching. Please keep following.... I have been hard at work and Cindy is making a time lapse video of the progress.
Dude, you are a stud, reminds me of my Dad.
Very kind. Thank you ☺️
Good job bud you work like me ha ha work hard then sit , best way for sure. Good video. Thanks 👍
Thank you for watching and the kind comments. Please follow along. I have started the barns and this week we are filming a time lapse of part 1.
You did a great job..
Thank you so much ☺️
Wow guys...your most views yet!!!!! Awesome!
Thank you! 😊. This one was definitely helpful in meeting some UA-cam goals!
I don't know how far you live from a concrete delivery service but my experience has been, if you pour more than a 1/2 a yard of concrete you will spend far more on bags of Quikcrete than having it delivered.
Yes it would have actually been cheaper to have them come but they couldn't get into the location.
Thank you for watching.
Nice
Thank you 😊. And thanks for watching
Great, easy job
Thank you for watching 😊
Brother-Inlaw sure knew how to cut open the bags: Slice in the center, flip the bag, lift up the ends, and out it pours!
He's also wearing a concrete dust mask - Roy is a smart "helper", and Cindy a great Camera woman!
I couldn't agree more. Thank you for watching ☺️
@@simpleacrehomestead Thank you all for your HARD work in a HOT area!
Great job
Thank you very much 😊
Great work guys! Maybe I need some mini barns for the dogs.....
That might be handy for you. I can't wait to be able to clear the animals out of my shop.
I think what you did putting lot moisture after gravel before pouring in dry concrete is the WAY TO GO WITH THIS DRY POUR to make it stronger and less porous.
Thank you Ricardo, Thank you also for taking the time to watch and comment.
Nice job...looks great.
I plan on doing a carport pad that is 16 x 20. I am going to do it in two sections and once I get the first section done, I will remove the form that would be against the next section and place a rubber wall cove base. This will actually give me two 16 x 10 pads with the rubber embedded between. I hope this will reduce the chance of cracking, along with the support of the added rebar.
Thank you for watching and commenting it is very appreciated. It sounds like a big project and I hope it goes well for you. 😊
Great vid. Jeez I thought that was a Wehrmatch gorget on your upper chest for a split second. Then I realized it was a mask.
Thank you and lol yes it should have been on my face more than it was.
Love this idea. I want a small patio out back.
I hope this works out for you
I watched this video only because of the shirt “mmm bacon”
LMAO it's one of my favourites. Thank you for watching ☺️
Anybody else click because of the shirt?
Lol, what's wrong with my shirt 😅
Thanks for watching ~Bert
I did a dry pour over the weekend. I personally think mixing with water in a wheel barrel first is less work. Because the gravel is very difficult to work down unless you want the exposed aggregate look.
I hope your project turned out well. Yes it takes a long time to get that top smooth.
Love yer shirt!l
Lol 😂 thanks. I think it's an awesome shirt. Who doesn't love bacon 🥓😍
As a fellow dry concrete pourer, great job. 😊
Thank you 😊
Very Nice! Would suggest a footer around the perimeter with 1/4 inch rebar to go along with the mesh! Now try it again with a little mixer and a wheel barrow! Screed it as you go and set the anchors at the same time! This way the concrete will truly meld with the wonderful aggregate you put underneath! Then, after it sets, put the the sprinkler on it for a few days!
Thank you for watching and commenting.
subscribed and liked. You're one of the few youtubers who has done a dry pour in a non-southern USA climate. I am in NW Ohio and would like to do a dry pour but we have some serious freeze/thaw cycles.
Have you done other dry pours up there in CA? How old are they? Any update videos? THanks a lot!
Hi and thank you for your support. I have not done any other dry pours before other than fence posts. We did both pads this year and have built mini barns on them. I made sure to put 4+ inches of gravel under them to allow for drainage so I am hoping not to have any issues. So far it has been great but this winter will be the true test.
@@simpleacrehomestead very nice. Looking forward to more of your videos and I hope your slab will be OK! Never mind the nay sayers... they're traditionalists who are probably not even in the trade but they want to chirp up like their opinion holds weight. I have asked several of these negative nancy's for their published papers on the strength and consistencies of dry-pours. ... like, how do they know what PSI it cures at... WHEN does it cure, ... how did they test it, what brand did they test, was it a controlled environment,... etc... and would you believe it, NONE OF THEM had any responses. :/
Thank you Bill we appreciate the positive feedback. As you likely noticed in the comments the opinions very greatly. We hope you enjoy our videos. ~Bert
Do you wet the first layer and then ad more and then ad another layer??
what I did was soaked the gravel really well before starting to pour the bags. I did not spray any layers. I didn't want to chance creating any inconsistency in between.
seems like more work than getting ready mix.... But Im 71 and getting tired.😅
I think you are probably right, problem we had was the location. We couldn't get trucks in unless they went through the neighbours clay field. It just seemed to risky with the wet weather.
Thank you for watching.
As a licensed builder and former concrete inspector...I was never a fan of dry pour. It's fine for a shed I suppose, but I've seen failures. You can never be sure there aren't pockets below the surface that didn't fully hydrate.
Thank you very much for watching and commenting. Yes I suggest everyone does there own homework. I am hoping for a shed it will stand the test of time 🙂
@@simpleacrehomestead I could pour a pad that size off the truck start at 7 an be back home at 12 an be alot stronger pad an definitely faster an for sure where I'm from way cheaper
Extended my driveway 3’ wide by 40’ long both sides. Was reinforced. Been 6 years not one crack, the original wet poured drive way has several cracks! Go figure..
@@robertseiser7511 wow, now that is impressive!! Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
If you water correctly, you can indeed be sure it is fully hydrated. Careful, gradual, even watering is the key. You should do it more systematically than he does here. And I always use a garden mister. But take the approach like you are spray painting the slab with water. One watering per 1/2 of slab, 30 minutes apart. Avoid letting any water stand on the surface. I believe it is best to use a mist spray for every watering and not try to soak it at the end. Doing it this way it migrates down very evenly. Migrates down about 3/4 inch in each watering and then slows, That's when you do the next watering. Start the next watering 30 minutes after starting the previous. Move the same direction each time and like you are spay painting.
I have tested this in test forms of clear material, it is amazing how evenly it migrates down, all he way to the bottom, Don't cheat the schedule and don't get any water collecting on the surface. It's quite easy but stay systematic. If you just spray randomly, it will be harder to get even absorption. You'll have part wetter which will migrate down unevenly
And I do not prewet. You do not want water to wick up. Wei from op down and cure from top down, Pre-watering woks against that, Doing wet pour, yes prewet but NOT on dry pour.
n my testing I actually measured my watering volume accurately, Total water was only slightly more than minimum recommended water. A dryer mix makes a stronger slab because the materials don't settle and stay more uniform.
Rather than sifting fines, you ca easily make your own fines with one part Portland and two parts sand, mixed. Scatter it on evenly and then paint roll. It is fully compatible with the concrete mix, DO NOT USE MORTAR MIX as a few guy recommend. It has lime and other components in it. The absorption rate and cure rate are different than the concrete, If you get freezing weather it ont stay well bonded to the slab, mortar mix is pricey too. For this size slab, a 5 gallon bucket of homemade dry fines, will be more than enough to improve the surface,
How many inches of gravel did you put out and what type was it?
Hi Devin, I am trying to remember back to when I did them. I believe the gravel would have been about. 3 inches. It is just a "crushed gravel with fines"
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. We hope you will continue to follow.
Your the first that I have seen screen to get the rocks out. Others act like they got it smooth with no issues. I am confused
Its definately not that simple. A smaller pad would be so much easier and then as long as you have enough material ahead of the 2x4 it will push most of the stones out of the way but it gets hard to push alot of material over that 10ft wide span that we were doing. I hope that helps to make sense of it ☺️
~Bert
Im still not convinced that this is easier, quicker, or more structurally sound than a traditional wet pour.
I don't think it is. For us it was more about location. I didn't say in the video but trucks couldn't get into this area. It would have been cheaper to have them poor it as well.
This just shows another option 😁.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
@@simpleacrehomestead I have a harbor freight mixer and it mixes very well and quickly. We’ve used it around the farm to pour footing and big pours like yours. You lost me at the sifting. Based on this and other videos it looks like the effort is less with an electric mixer. Good job of presenting your content.
Thank you.
I'm very interested in the dry poor method and this video was a great start, but why wouldn't you do a follow-up video of how it turned out? Also, would have been nice to see your calculation on how many bags to use vs actual bags used. Thx
Hi LC, Thank you for watching the video. If you need to know how many bags to use I just referred to one of the online calculators.. you type in your dimensions and how thick of a pad and you will get your answer. ***www.quikrete.com/calculator/main.asp#concrete.*** As far as a follow up, if you follow along you will get a glimpse of the floors. I am in the process of building the barns on them now and have released a couple of videos on that topic if you care to follow along. But overall I am happy with how it turned out. If you give it a try I want to stress to spend plenty of time on getting the surface the way you want it to look because that will be your final result.
I hope this helps 😊
Interesting way of doing a slab. Ive only done small slabs by mixing in wheelbarrow and its a good bit of work. I just wonder how strong a slab like this will get. Since its just a shed it probably wont matter. You could always just use CR6 gravel which has stone dust in it and it compacts with a tamper and it get hard. They use it for a base on highways or just regular gravel driveways.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes I am hoping since it's only a little barn that it won't be a issue. Interesting idea about the gravel.
hard labor in 90 degree heat with a jump suit or coveralls on. Roy reminded me of my time in prison on the chain gang. I can eat 50 eggs.
Cool Hand Luke. Roy handled the heat better than I did lol. Thank you for watching we appreciate it.
How many bags did it take
105 - 66 pound bags. Thank you for watching.
Cool You are not driving a truck on it so it should be good for a mini barn.
My daughter and family live in McGregor are you near there?
That's exactly how I looked at the project. I believe we would be about 1hr45 ish minutes north of them. That is close to Windsor if I am correct?
I guess if you like labor and money is no problem this might be way to go. having a remix truck deliver 10 yards cost is about $1400 for 10 yards. bags of sakrete cost is at least 1/3 more
Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes mix would have been cheaper but as mentioned in previous comments no truck access.
Why not just buy one more reinforcement piece and use a cutoff wheel to cut it in half?
Hi and thank you for watching. For the extra 20 dollars they sell for here it would have probably been a easier fix. It was more a case of trying to save a couple bucks by using what I had in storage.
How did it turn out? Any cracks? Strength? Thanks :)
Thank you for watching and enquiring. The 1st pad I did 4 weeks ago and the 2nd almost 2 weeks. So far no cracking. As far as strength I don't see it being a issue since I won't be driving on them but I will keep you posted. I hope to start framing the 2 small Barns this weekend.
What does the finished product look like? Can you show some close-up images of the surface and texture?
Hi Mi Sm I am not sure how to attach photos on a response otherwise I have no problem sharing. What I can do later this afternoon is post a close up on my community tab. I would describe the surface as a textured sand feel. Please subscribe and watch our community tab later today.
I have posted a couple of pictures on the community tab.
This isn't a method its a shortcut. I recommend following the directions on the bag.
Thank you for watching
Concrete finishers been doing this wrong for years😂😂
Lol. Oh I am sure they have better results. ☺️
Wouldnt it be easier to just order a concrete truck and have him back up and pour it? You made a neat contraption with a roller, but they make a bull float that does the same thing. It has to be cheaper to buy concete by the truck than by the bag???? Idk.... seams like more work
Hi Frank, you are right. The truck would have been cheaper and likely easier. The location didn't allow truck access on our property (too many obstacles and septic tiles). The easy access would have been through the neighbouring crop field but the risk of getting stuck in the clay just seemed to high.
Wouldn't you use steaks to hold the forms in place
Yes I used them on the first form. The second one I didn't find it as necessary. Without being premixed you don't have the weight pushing out the way you would with a wet form.
Don’t use gravel that prevents the moisture coming in from the soil
Where we are I needed to use gravel for drainage to avoid freezing below the cement which would cause the pad to shift and potentially crack. But what I did is heavily watered the gravel to give the concrete moisture to pull from. 😊. Thank you very much for watching and taking the time to comment.
why no footer around outside edge?
Don't see why it's necessary?
Hell yea Bacon
😂
The silicosis method
What size pad? How many bags of concrete? 80 pounders?
10x16 ft. Took 105- 66 pd bags of Quikrete.
I have been looking for this question and answer. Thank you
@@DanielRenfro you are very welcome.
Why would you want to do it this way? It looks like a lot more work.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
We used this method because of the location. The trucks didn't have access to do a pour. I had also seen it done before and wanted to give it a try 😊
While I appreciate you taking the time to film your process, I would have Ike to see less of you sitting there with the hose in your hand and some good close up shots of you putting the anchors in and more close up shot of what the concrete looked like at the end of each stage and then of course the final product up close.
Thank you for the feedback.
Wouldn’t it be just as cheap to get a concrete truck I mean what did I u save 75$
Yes it would have been cheaper. This question has come up a few times and you are right. The issue we had was accessibility.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Looks great...just wondering why not use mortar mix as a final top layer for a smoother top with less work ?
I have actually heard of others doing that. For these barns the finish was good enough for me since they will likely see animal traffic. But the mortar finish might be nice for exposed patios etc.
@@simpleacrehomestead gotcha
Mortar is for laying bricks and blocks.
@@randythomas3478 There are several videos where they use mortar mix for the final top layer...and it works very well ... absolutely smooth finish. You may want to check it out.
@@RussaultGaming nothing wrong with mortar it has lime in it which will make it set faster though.
I dont understand...dont you have transit mix? So much easier and cheaper to wet pour
Thank you for watching and commenting. As explained in previous comments the location didn't allow a mixing truck access. When we priced it out it was cheaper just not an option.
@@simpleacrehomestead you gotta do what you have to. Im curious how the surface holds up. Most of the surface hardness and wear ability comes from the ability to bring the cement to the surface and consolidate with a trowel. Im guess its not going to be high traffic.
@@dennisyurconis742 very low traffic, if you watch the next video I start building the little barns on the pads. One will house rabbits and Quail and the other will house goats in the winter ☺
Are the bags premixed with stone?
Yes they are, just add water
It's funny, you are getting about 1500-2000psi. The "experts" condemn your method and demand you need 5000psi, but had you used asphalt with it's max 200psi, nobody would have said anything. Well done.
Thank you so much 😊
Why would you not call a short load company?
Fair question, It came down to not being able to get their trucks into the location without the risk of getting stuck in the clay at the time.
How many bags did you use?
105 - 66 pound bags. Thanks for watching.
It's not shimmying it's called striking off
Thanks Glenn.
Nice job. What size is the pad?
10' x 16'
Thank you for watching 😌
do you have concrete deliver?
Yes I had the hardware store deliver the bags. It would have taken alot of trips to get them with my truck due to the weight. Paying for delivery just made sense in my situation.
I’m thought of updating the graven pad in my shelter logic 14x32 to be cement, but after calculations I would need 300 bags at 60 pounds each, I looked it up and there are only ~50 bags to a pallet so I’d need 6 pallets😂. I can’t imagine doing all that work, parts $1,000.
Idk how much a cement truck would cost, but O could use another pad around the fire pit, change my patio from stone and also a new driveway. Maybe I should just build up some finishing experience before doing my driveway.
@@BWeezy-sw1wy If a truck can get into the spot I think it would be cheaper. For us it cost about 900 dollars for each pad. It would have been about 200 dollars less for each pad if the truck would have been able to get into our location. Good luck with your decision and thanks so much for watching :)
ke but what can you keep
?
I don't get it. Wet poor would have been the same work if not easier.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You could very well be correct. I have no experience with wet poor. I know that in my area it would have been cheaper to have a truck come but it wouldn't be able to get to our location. The other concern was I didn't feel confident that I could mix it fast enough by hand. At the end of the day this seemed like the easier solution for what I needed.
I get it now. That does make sense and it can get very expensive for a truck with just that much concrete. I been working with concrete for 30 Year's. It is expensive to hire guys to help you even when it's free for the help. You got drink's, food and I'm sure you would want to pay them a little still for there help because you come out as a nice person. I hope it all came out well for you to build the shed on. Good job tho for being dry concrete. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 👍
if your going this much effort, get a small mixer and do real concrete
Thank you for watching and commenting. I would like to try with a mixer some time ☺️ ~Bert
I thought Brady was gonna confess to cheating his whole career
concrete looks good, but what about that shirt!
Who doesn't like bacon lol. Unless it's for religious reasons.
Just do it right the first time. Your mix is not evenly distributed. Period.
Duly noted. Thanks for watching!
Guys dont try this dry crap....i did 3 jobs using dry pour..they all are weak as f. Also i gave twice more cement then i would use concrete mixer...just take little concrete mixer and work with shovel and you will get great result.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and share your experience. I am still quite happy with my barn floors. Have a blessed week.
i don't like this method but each to there own
Thank you
😂😂😂😢😢😢😢
Thank-you for watching
Should be banned
Thank you watching the video and taking the time to respond ~ Bert
You watch one dry pour video and that’s all you see recommended. I think this is probably ok for a small- nope not even. Anyway if you insist on this method why not wet the pad before putting the mix down to help with hydration on the bottom. Still it seems much easier instead of moving 100 bag’s around and choking on dust call a truck, do it the right way and pour out your pad in 15 minutes. If you know how to do concrete this just looks so miserable
Thank you for taking the time to watch our video.
How many bags did you use
105 (66 pound bags)