I was trying to work out what kind of application this would suit, given the many issues which would limit life/duty. Then I saw the name of your channel 😲😆
Awesome video man! You make it easy to follow along and build it. I'm gonna order everything and build it. Would love to see other videos about this stuff. Thank you
Appreciate the content. Wondered what your thoughts were on using this type of set up over your milkit design that uses an arm instead of a screw. (only care about the suction aspect myself) Seems like this style would have better mitigation for popoff, remove the need for a solenoid and be easer to sync with video.
There's some benefits to both. My opinion of the rocker arm is that it has some unique benefits (assuming same stepper / servo motor as screw). It's the only design that allows a physical max stroke that can be adjusted mechanically. So, you can set a max stroke on the arm of 4" or 10" or anything, and then adjust anywhere within that on the fly just like a screw. It's the absolutely fastest transmission (if speed matters) because regardless of length, one complete stroke is one revolution. The screws is given in distance per revolution. The downsides are speed comes at the cost of strength, so you're not going to drive it with a Nema17. And calculating actual length requires some math - the distance per step isn't constant in a single revolution.
I thought I'd be able to reply to this with a link to the video, but it's taking me a lot longer than expected :/ I was having problems running it closed loop but just realized it's likely a cable problem! Hopefully by the end of next month!
any idea of the Newton force this can push? I've been looking into making one myself that is a bit heavy duty. Looking to lift around 100-200lbs at a decent rate of speed (ie; over 1"/sec)
I've been working on measuring / calculating force for awhile... but haven't had the best results. I just put up this - ua-cam.com/video/bf-2tbeEQOE/v-deo.html - which has some good info.
I used to be able to measure the force (with current / voltage) using feedback from the drivers, but all I'm getting are null responses. I'm working on it - I actually delayed this video for weeks so I could have that info.
I wouldn't think it could support 500# - well, definitely not with the coupler I'm using. At around ~80# the coupler separates on the pull stroke. I've been prioritizing speed (>10"/s) The next version of this is going to be much larger. It's using 6060 with a 10x50 Igus screw, and TBD larger motor.
Ah! Like a telescopic actuator. I looked into this awhile ago and the skills are beyond me. You'd need some type of hollow screw to fit one inside (?) This may help : www.neff-ballscrews.com/products/telescopic-screw-drives
This device has no features to transmit linear force, if you used it in anger it would self-disassemble, It's a display piece, not that there's anything wrong with that.
I'm not sure what you mean by this? A stepper driving a screw is a pretty standard linear mechanism. I probably should have stated the goal more clearly - high speed, low cost, as much off the shelf as possible to make it easy to DIY. No one would be using an electric cylinder to drive a CNC...
@@nsfwmachines8343 I think what he means is the motor shaft bearings are having to take the full axial load. They will only be rated to take a very light axial loads. You need to add in some thrust bearings so the motor bearing don’t die.
@@Wiggleraway OH! Absolutely!!! I've been trying to use different motors for each build, to be somewhat motor agnostic. The one at the start is sort of a novelty - I totally agree. Thanks for the clarification :)
@@nsfwmachines8343 Yes the bearing isn't really appropriate, but that's fine for this sort of DIY, learning is half the point, kind of project. The thing is the lead screw isn't attached to the inner race of the bearing so linear force is carried by the motor and in turn by its bracket which is only designed for torque loading. Under tension loads the coupler will separate. Because you used a really fast thread lead screw there might not be enough force to cause any of these failures but half the folks that replicate your design will substitute threaded rod.
Excellent - and true - points! With the motor inline, the coupler separates before peak force when pulling. Luckily, pulling tends to require significantly less force (in my use case). The screw speed is critical, anything under 20mm lead won't work. Machining the screw from Igus to put a thread on the end takes it from $10 to ~$120. Possibly a FK style bearing mount and a shaft collar could work.
SUPERBE MACHINE À SENSATIONS, ET RÉGLAGE DE LA VITESSE 👍👍👍👍
I was trying to work out what kind of application this would suit, given the many issues which would limit life/duty. Then I saw the name of your channel 😲😆
Same. I am like cool engineering youtube then I was like oooh
Awesome video man! You make it easy to follow along and build it. I'm gonna order everything and build it. Would love to see other videos about this stuff. Thank you
Thank you! :)
Appreciate the content.
Wondered what your thoughts were on using this type of set up over your
milkit design that uses an arm instead of a screw. (only care about the suction aspect myself)
Seems like this style would have better mitigation for popoff, remove the need for a solenoid and be easer to sync with video.
There's some benefits to both. My opinion of the rocker arm is that it has some unique benefits (assuming same stepper / servo motor as screw). It's the only design that allows a physical max stroke that can be adjusted mechanically. So, you can set a max stroke on the arm of 4" or 10" or anything, and then adjust anywhere within that on the fly just like a screw. It's the absolutely fastest transmission (if speed matters) because regardless of length, one complete stroke is one revolution. The screws is given in distance per revolution. The downsides are speed comes at the cost of strength, so you're not going to drive it with a Nema17. And calculating actual length requires some math - the distance per step isn't constant in a single revolution.
@@nsfwmachines8343
Makes sense.
Thanks for the info.
Look forward to seeing more of your builds.
Can you make a detailed video on how to use Motion Studio to control a motor?
I thought I'd be able to reply to this with a link to the video, but it's taking me a lot longer than expected :/ I was having problems running it closed loop but just realized it's likely a cable problem! Hopefully by the end of next month!
any idea of the Newton force this can push? I've been looking into making one myself that is a bit heavy duty. Looking to lift around 100-200lbs at a decent rate of speed (ie; over 1"/sec)
I've been working on measuring / calculating force for awhile... but haven't had the best results. I just put up this - ua-cam.com/video/bf-2tbeEQOE/v-deo.html - which has some good info.
what kinda force can this withstand? this could be the a solution for diy active aero...
Same, I'd like to know how much weight it can withstand? 500lbs of downward force x2 of these would be what I'd need for an active aero use case.
I used to be able to measure the force (with current / voltage) using feedback from the drivers, but all I'm getting are null responses. I'm working on it - I actually delayed this video for weeks so I could have that info.
I wouldn't think it could support 500# - well, definitely not with the coupler I'm using. At around ~80# the coupler separates on the pull stroke. I've been prioritizing speed (>10"/s) The next version of this is going to be much larger. It's using 6060 with a 10x50 Igus screw, and TBD larger motor.
I want it 200mm. 2 stage actutor. Do you have any idea??
Ah! Like a telescopic actuator. I looked into this awhile ago and the skills are beyond me. You'd need some type of hollow screw to fit one inside (?) This may help : www.neff-ballscrews.com/products/telescopic-screw-drives
@@nsfwmachines8343 you can try it by 3d printer
you should check some of the stuff that is on the market
It seems hard to shop for electric cylinders without needing to go through sales agents etc. Do you recommend any?
@@nsfwmachines8343 I can't send you some of the ones that are common. Link and other stuff got deleted.
None of my comments are showing
@@nsfwmachines8343 look for linear actuator frc
@@nsfwmachines8343 linear actuators frc
Fantastic man! Check your messages haha
Sorry, I've checked my mail a couple times - even junk and trash. Can you resend? nsfwmachines@gmail.com
This device has no features to transmit linear force, if you used it in anger it would self-disassemble, It's a display piece, not that there's anything wrong with that.
I'm not sure what you mean by this? A stepper driving a screw is a pretty standard linear mechanism. I probably should have stated the goal more clearly - high speed, low cost, as much off the shelf as possible to make it easy to DIY. No one would be using an electric cylinder to drive a CNC...
@@nsfwmachines8343 I think what he means is the motor shaft bearings are having to take the full axial load. They will only be rated to take a very light axial loads. You need to add in some thrust bearings so the motor bearing don’t die.
@@Wiggleraway OH! Absolutely!!! I've been trying to use different motors for each build, to be somewhat motor agnostic. The one at the start is sort of a novelty - I totally agree. Thanks for the clarification :)
@@nsfwmachines8343 Yes the bearing isn't really appropriate, but that's fine for this sort of DIY, learning is half the point, kind of project.
The thing is the lead screw isn't attached to the inner race of the bearing so linear force is carried by the motor and in turn by its bracket which is only designed for torque loading. Under tension loads the coupler will separate. Because you used a really fast thread lead screw there might not be enough force to cause any of these failures but half the folks that replicate your design will substitute threaded rod.
Excellent - and true - points! With the motor inline, the coupler separates before peak force when pulling. Luckily, pulling tends to require significantly less force (in my use case). The screw speed is critical, anything under 20mm lead won't work. Machining the screw from Igus to put a thread on the end takes it from $10 to ~$120. Possibly a FK style bearing mount and a shaft collar could work.
is the rest of yout body as veiny as your arms? gyat damm
That's what she said
Yeah, phlebotomists love me :)