Alpha authentication can be pretty straightforward. Of course, comparing Alpha versus authentic Alphas or Betas is the simplest check. Check the mana symbol registration on Alpha rares from graded versions online or Scryfall. Many Alphas have misprints, font differences, and/or typos. Many Alphas have printer hickeys and weird centering. If they're minty you can see the corner flips. Many of the colors are different between Beta/CE & Alpha. Also very rarely see any Alphas with all 4 corners exactly the same shape.
Great content as always. Never held a fake *old* card that didn't immediately feel off. Can't replicate that stock in combination with aging process. Also, love it how you use Ancestral and Jet as authenticators - could have used a basic just as easily..! 🍻
These counterfeiters are getting so good at what they do that it’s getting harder to tell a fake from a real card. So far, the touch and feel method is the best one to identify a fake. Some people say you can use the “rip” test to identify a fake, but I personally don’t think it’s worth the risk.
Terrific content, great work on magnifying the print pattern on camera. Most fakes stick out like a sore thumb just by the light reflection, but all these pointers were very well explained.
It’s a 4 over print process, CMYK (Cyan Magenta Yellow Black) I do believe all 4 are laid down and then an additional spot black is done for the text and symbols
@@AlphaHoarder yeah there’s what’s called a “process black” which is part of the CMYK pattern to make ANY color, and then a “spot” black which is typically richer and darker..hence why it’s crisp and sharp too. There’s alot about the frequency for the rosette patterns too that matter. If you ever want to dive into it and have questions I can definitely help
Learning the authentication methods is a MUST for any serious collector Have only had one instance of buying counterfeits (a Revised dual land set). Was able to get my money back quickly (eBay). I could tell just buy the feel that they were fake, but they also failed the light and dot tests. I know someone who bought a Mox Sapphire from an LGS and didn’t know it was fake until years later when it was too late. I also recommend buying a cheap card from each older set as a reference.
Absolutely have reference cards! Honestly, texture and feel is the best test there is, but it requires more familiarity and experience, so the larger toolkit is useful to know. That sucks for the guy who found out years later…. What a let down that must have been 😩😩
I played magic for a long time and never came across fake cards. I once came across fake pokemon cards and they were so easy to bend, it was just clear that they were fake. Now I wonder, are fakes really that common at all? Seems like much fuzz about nothing. And if I come across a fake, wouldn't I spot it given I spent so much time with magic cards?
In most cases, if you are familiar with vintage cards, you will probably feel something is off immediately. Honestly, the touch and feel test is the one I use 95% of the time, though it’s too hard to explain in video form. The other stuff is good to know and to confirm or dissuade that first sense. I’ve seen really convincing Unlimited and Revised fakes, but I have no idea how common they are. Common enough that I’d argue it’s not only fuzz… but not so common we need to be fearful when conducting reasonable transactions.
lol the color test, works great when they used to do quality printing. Some of my STX cards vary so hard it's like a totally different set, moreso than the Oubliette from AN. Also - wouldn't do it with a feedback ? Pfff, thats 25 -> 80 bucks. That's like a whole weekend of really nice sandwiches right there.
Very good video, I have never really paid much attention to my alphas (but in my defense, have only ever bought from very reputable ppl) and the reason why I have invested the majority in graded cards (at least, the chance of being connend there is minimal)
Eh. Tavis King has a 40 minute video of total fuck ups by grading compies and it is mostly BGS. The only graded card I personally purchased ended up being a fake lol. I got a refund so all good. Authenticate your stuff, at least do the red dot test. It takes 10 seconds.
@@yorionenthusiast170 Well, nothing is 100%, but with graded cards you are def a lot closer to making sure you buy actual cards vs. fakes, rebacks etc ... and I buy PSA, not BGS :) :)
@@InLoveWith123 you should do due diligence on every card you wouldn't want to discover was fake down the line when you go to sell. PSA is not infallible either. They spend something like 37 seconds per card.
I've seen a lot of fake cards. But I haven't seen anything pass the green dot test (I have seen cards with a LOT of red dots in the spot where just the L should be). Has anyone actually seen fakes (besides rebacks) that would pass that test?
Best steak in New York is Bowery Meat Company, Empire on w54 is also great. I just don't like the experience at Peter Lugers and think their steak is pretty average. Give BMC a try if you're ever in the mood for something new. Thanks for the videos! -- Also that Teferi in the end looked very real on the front, does it pass the green dot test on the back?
Well if you rate Lugers “average” and recommend BMC, I 100% have to go give that place a try! Appreciate the tip. I’ll check on that Teferi and get back to you (I’m traveling atm) but I doubt it does. Thanks for the comment 💪
When talking Luger, you referring to the Brooklyn location, or Great Neck location? IMO there absolutely is a huge difference in ambiance, and the steak itself, between the two. (Last time I went to the GN location, steak was definitely fattier than I remembered the ones at the Brooklyn location, there was a nice crispy char on the outside though, different from what I experienced at the Brooklyn location. Also, the carpeted floors in some parts of the dining area, the more intimate feel of some of those areas, especially where the dining room wraps around the kitchen.
question : i have bought 4 phyrexian dreadnought from a guy who i trust. 3 are for sure real but one is kinda poor and it is harder to spot the red pixels on the green dot. i mean they are there BUT they are way more faint the the other 3 (that are in excellent status). could it be fake? the rosette is there, the blue core same,the red pixels are harder to spot tho....
Check for double layered printing. All of the black text and borders should have perfectly clear edges, not rosettes. If you can spot the red pixels, however faint, and the double layered printing is on point, then you're probably good to go.
@@AlphaHoarder yeah the text and border is totally legit. it was just those red pixels that worried me. they are so fainter, i guess the card got "scratched" right in that precise spot?
Assuming it was done well (no obvious surface/weight anomalies) high magnification of the side would likely reveal it. Authentic cards have the core paper line dead center along the thickness, which is next to impossible to replicate. I’m not sure if there’d be a reason to make a reback like that, however 🤔
Hmm. They would still need access to the authentic card front, which implies they have a true copy of the card… so I think we’re only talking about the edge case where the card is clean on the front but has a nasty scratch or ink only on the back. Then perhaps somebody would attempt a reback just to get the cleaner back. That would be a tricky maneuver since typically re-backed card comes out looking played rather than mint… But yeah I suppose if someone were to try that, your best bet is to look for surface waviness, or high magnification along the edges for the core paper. Interesting thought!
Alpha authentication can be pretty straightforward. Of course, comparing Alpha versus authentic Alphas or Betas is the simplest check.
Check the mana symbol registration on Alpha rares from graded versions online or Scryfall.
Many Alphas have misprints, font differences, and/or typos.
Many Alphas have printer hickeys and weird centering.
If they're minty you can see the corner flips.
Many of the colors are different between Beta/CE & Alpha.
Also very rarely see any Alphas with all 4 corners exactly the same shape.
Ah forgot to mention the corner flip 🤦♂️ those are all good points too. Thanks for adding those to the list here 👍
Great content as always. Never held a fake *old* card that didn't immediately feel off. Can't replicate that stock in combination with aging process.
Also, love it how you use Ancestral and Jet as authenticators - could have used a basic just as easily..! 🍻
Yes, the touch and feel test remains the best one, if you have some familiarity with the cards. Thanks for watching!!
These counterfeiters are getting so good at what they do that it’s getting harder to tell a fake from a real card. So far, the touch and feel method is the best one to identify a fake. Some people say you can use the “rip” test to identify a fake, but I personally don’t think it’s worth the risk.
Terrific content, great work on magnifying the print pattern on camera. Most fakes stick out like a sore thumb just by the light reflection, but all these pointers were very well explained.
Agreed, the touch and feel test is by far the best, but it requires some familiarity and is hard to explain. Appreciate that kind remark my friend 👍
It’s a 4 over print process, CMYK (Cyan Magenta Yellow Black) I do believe all 4 are laid down and then an additional spot black is done for the text and symbols
I didn’t realize black went down twice, thanks for clarifying 🤜🤛
@@AlphaHoarder yeah there’s what’s called a “process black” which is part of the CMYK pattern to make ANY color, and then a “spot” black which is typically richer and darker..hence why it’s crisp and sharp too. There’s alot about the frequency for the rosette patterns too that matter. If you ever want to dive into it and have questions I can definitely help
Great video! Super interesting! I had never even heard about the green dot test
Useful to know!
Learning the authentication methods is a MUST for any serious collector
Have only had one instance of buying counterfeits (a Revised dual land set). Was able to get my money back quickly (eBay). I could tell just buy the feel that they were fake, but they also failed the light and dot tests.
I know someone who bought a Mox Sapphire from an LGS and didn’t know it was fake until years later when it was too late.
I also recommend buying a cheap card from each older set as a reference.
Absolutely have reference cards! Honestly, texture and feel is the best test there is, but it requires more familiarity and experience, so the larger toolkit is useful to know. That sucks for the guy who found out years later…. What a let down that must have been 😩😩
10/10 awesome video. I shared it on fb because this needs to be shared.
Thank you for that, much appreciated 🙏
You threw that mox down and I flinched. But when you bent it I dropped my phone and passed out 😅
😂
Most card board/paper collectables will be counterfeited in the future. As values go up and technology gets better. Is my opinion
It’s definitely a danger, especially with modern printed serialized stuff.
buying from a trustworthy source is also good advise…! 😁👊🏻
Yes good point!
@@AlphaHoarder i often pay more buying from big stores, but the risk of counterfit cards is so much less that it’s worth it to me!
I agree, I wish I’d mentioned that in the video. Delegating some checks to responsible parties is definitely worth something and worth doing.
Counterfeits for the win🔥 saves me a lot of money and still enjoy playing the game.
Authentification is the base. Good video.
hey mothman chaser!! 😁👊🏻.
Thanks as always 👍👍
Never been, but always wanted to go to Lugers for a beast porterhouse haha...great video, enjoy the content.
Haven’t found a better 🥩 yet! Thanks for watching 🙂
awesome content as usual!
Appreciate that my friend 👍
Great content as always!
Appreciate that 🙏
I played magic for a long time and never came across fake cards. I once came across fake pokemon cards and they were so easy to bend, it was just clear that they were fake. Now I wonder, are fakes really that common at all? Seems like much fuzz about nothing. And if I come across a fake, wouldn't I spot it given I spent so much time with magic cards?
In most cases, if you are familiar with vintage cards, you will probably feel something is off immediately. Honestly, the touch and feel test is the one I use 95% of the time, though it’s too hard to explain in video form. The other stuff is good to know and to confirm or dissuade that first sense. I’ve seen really convincing Unlimited and Revised fakes, but I have no idea how common they are. Common enough that I’d argue it’s not only fuzz… but not so common we need to be fearful when conducting reasonable transactions.
lol the color test, works great when they used to do quality printing. Some of my STX cards vary so hard it's like a totally different set, moreso than the Oubliette from AN.
Also - wouldn't do it with a feedback ? Pfff, thats 25 -> 80 bucks. That's like a whole weekend of really nice sandwiches right there.
🤣 yeah that’s a whole other problem, isn’t it
Very good video, I have never really paid much attention to my alphas (but in my defense, have only ever bought from very reputable ppl) and the reason why I have invested the majority in graded cards (at least, the chance of being connend there is minimal)
A definite advantage of graded cards 🙂
Eh. Tavis King has a 40 minute video of total fuck ups by grading compies and it is mostly BGS. The only graded card I personally purchased ended up being a fake lol. I got a refund so all good. Authenticate your stuff, at least do the red dot test. It takes 10 seconds.
@@yorionenthusiast170 Well, nothing is 100%, but with graded cards you are def a lot closer to making sure you buy actual cards vs. fakes, rebacks etc ... and I buy PSA, not BGS :) :)
@@InLoveWith123 you should do due diligence on every card you wouldn't want to discover was fake down the line when you go to sell. PSA is not infallible either. They spend something like 37 seconds per card.
I've seen a lot of fake cards. But I haven't seen anything pass the green dot test (I have seen cards with a LOT of red dots in the spot where just the L should be). Has anyone actually seen fakes (besides rebacks) that would pass that test?
I haven't either. Rebacks and clipped corners would be the two concerns.
really informative video, thanks!
Appreciate that 👍
Best steak in New York is Bowery Meat Company, Empire on w54 is also great. I just don't like the experience at Peter Lugers and think their steak is pretty average. Give BMC a try if you're ever in the mood for something new. Thanks for the videos! -- Also that Teferi in the end looked very real on the front, does it pass the green dot test on the back?
Well if you rate Lugers “average” and recommend BMC, I 100% have to go give that place a try! Appreciate the tip. I’ll check on that Teferi and get back to you (I’m traveling atm) but I doubt it does. Thanks for the comment 💪
When talking Luger, you referring to the Brooklyn location, or Great Neck location? IMO there absolutely is a huge difference in ambiance, and the steak itself, between the two. (Last time I went to the GN location, steak was definitely fattier than I remembered the ones at the Brooklyn location, there was a nice crispy char on the outside though, different from what I experienced at the Brooklyn location. Also, the carpeted floors in some parts of the dining area, the more intimate feel of some of those areas, especially where the dining room wraps around the kitchen.
I've only been to the great neck location, but I've heard the Brooklyn location is slightly better.
question : i have bought 4 phyrexian dreadnought from a guy who i trust.
3 are for sure real but one is kinda poor and it is harder to spot the red pixels on the green dot. i mean they are there BUT they are way more faint the the other 3 (that are in excellent status).
could it be fake? the rosette is there, the blue core same,the red pixels are harder to spot tho....
Check for double layered printing. All of the black text and borders should have perfectly clear edges, not rosettes. If you can spot the red pixels, however faint, and the double layered printing is on point, then you're probably good to go.
@@AlphaHoarder yeah the text and border is totally legit. it was just those red pixels that worried me. they are so fainter, i guess the card got "scratched" right in that precise spot?
Always hard to say for sure without handling the card myself, but it sounds like you're good!
@@AlphaHoarder i just need a better lense.
btw 3 exc and 1 poor (inked) for 300 euros...i count it as a win
Nice!!
let the buyer beware!!!
Yes indeed !!
could u detect a rebacked alpha card of a alpha card if that makes sense
Assuming it was done well (no obvious surface/weight anomalies) high magnification of the side would likely reveal it. Authentic cards have the core paper line dead center along the thickness, which is next to impossible to replicate. I’m not sure if there’d be a reason to make a reback like that, however 🤔
@@AlphaHoarder i mean rebacking like a circle of protection with a lightning bolt or somthing front would give u a pretty good profit
Hmm. They would still need access to the authentic card front, which implies they have a true copy of the card… so I think we’re only talking about the edge case where the card is clean on the front but has a nasty scratch or ink only on the back. Then perhaps somebody would attempt a reback just to get the cleaner back. That would be a tricky maneuver since typically re-backed card comes out looking played rather than mint… But yeah I suppose if someone were to try that, your best bet is to look for surface waviness, or high magnification along the edges for the core paper. Interesting thought!
Hold in light look for glue
@@thatguyronwaiters6485 there has to be methods that beat that right