How to clean teak | Top tips for keeping your boat’s decks pristine | Motor Boat & Yachting
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- Опубліковано 18 січ 2023
- Teak decks look lovely as well as being hardwearing, grippy and gentle underfoot. The one downside to real teak is keeping it clean. Jon Mendez explains all...
► Edited by Richard Langdon (oceanimages.co.uk/)
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I love watching your "How to..." videos Jon they're very helpful and instructive for us boaters. No one can say they know everything about boating so every day is a learning curve for us all.
A boat is still a dream for me but I can watch your videos all day long Jon. Very informative. I love the way you simplify things in minutes that have taken you years of experience to learn. 👍
Wow! Give me a painted steel deck and a beer 🙂
Try Teak Clean from DiTEC next time! No sanding required and it's readily biodegradable.
Great tips. Loving big Jons magic gloves. Still hoping one day for a big JM bloopers video!
Love these how too videos 🤙
Great work 👌
Another great, informative video. Thanks very much, really appreciate them. 👍
Thanks for another too tutorial Jon. 👍
I love using Ditec's teak cleaner! You can wash it right in water and doesn't have any harmful chemicals that burns your skin
Thanks for this video. Our teak is much better now. 👌👌👍👍
Great vid. Thank you
Why didn't you show the end result???!!
Just one concern, if I may… I don’t think Cif is an “innocent” cleaner. I had this perception, but using it proved disastrous. I thought it was just mildly abrasive chalk, emulsified somehow so it could take the form of a manageable liquid.
Long story short, the floor of my Highfield dinghy was covered by a textured rubber-like polymer. A very nice non skid surface with a pleasant feel on your bare feet. But towards the end of the summer it is so stained that looks dirty and ugly. So I decided to use the “innocent” in my mind Cif, to scrub the stains away with a soft, non abrasive sponge. Rinsed thoroughly, 5-6 times, and let it dry…
In the morning the entire floor was sticky as hell. Had to rip it off and go for synthetic teak instead.
So I am concerned the black filler of the teak floor, which is also a polymer, might turn into a gummy, sticky, liquid substance, and I have never used it for this purpose.
I personally prefer to use a high pressure hose instead, in the total absence of chemicals. Yes, it will take whatever varnish or saturator off, together with a tiny bit of loose bits of wood, but then you can reapply a saturator, and the wood will be safe and sealed again. Have been doing that for 7 years now, and the teak deck looks as new.
Here in the med, with all the sunshine, I also prefer non skid GRP to teak on the flybridge and the sidewalks, as stepping on a burnt by the sun teak surface, is not much different to stepping on burning charcoal. It is fine for the cockpit, the swim platform, but not far beyond those areas. Even the swim platform, we have to spray it with water before using it in the med.
Great video as always, love this videos, but why not show the result?
Nice job
when working with acid safety proper glasses would be great to wear
Great video. A small correction re the identification of the chemical solutions. It looks like you are using Wessex Part 1 and Part 2 Cleaner. Like all the two part cleaners I am familiar with Part 1 is Alkaline Sodium/Potassium Hydroxide (not acid as stated) and Part 2 is the neutralising Oxalic/Hydrochloric acid (not alkaline as stated) brightener solution. For either one, gloves a good idea!
You did not show the final result???!!!
#proper 👍
I clean most everything on the boat, including the teak, with Simple Green, 5% white vinegar, and water in equal parts. The detergent cleans and the vinegar cleans and kills any mildew. Don’t use oil on teak. That is food for mold, which will become unsightly in years to come.