I'm going to try that. My organic/resin front brake pads always squeak like hell. While the rear resin pads are quiet. I have 2 bikes with the same type of brakes. Same issues.
Organic / Aluminum! Quiet and work good. Don't really care that they don't last as long as they still last plenty long and aren't very expensive... maybe I just need to ride more :)
i have ran the organic pads riding downhill, the organic pads work but burn off fast and smell very weird. the worst part is they make a wicked squeal and your rotors will get a film on them that makes them squeal even after you change to sintered. i would recommend swapping out organics to sintered on a new dh bike before you even run them.
I don't quite understand your statement - you can run any compound you want, regardless of the size of the rotor (unless you're just suggesting to stick with sintered if you're running big 203mm rotors).
If you do get a glaze on your pads, and even the rotors, you can safely sand that glaze off to refresh the surface (use 80 grit or 120 grit paper). That helps a lot to give you a new contact surface.
For my EX8 I use Galfer Green Pro up front (proprietary compound) on my Galfer WaveDisc rotor. Tektro ceramic-semi metallic out back on the stock rotor. Sintered are better in general. Though it does depends on type of riding and conditions.
I've been using Resin Pads in this very rainy south Florida Summer and they make so much noise when dirt/mud gets in there. I'm looking forward to trying semi-metalics next.
I've heard sintered is good for those of us that are heavier :) a question is if my resin pads are worn out but my centerline rotors are still good can I change pads without worrying?
Are metallic pads easier to decontaminate once they got any oil on them? Just an assumption because my experience with cleaning contaminated resin pads is very bad.
Metal pads are maybe a little easier to clean but they are both hard to get all contamination out once they get soaked with oil. Unfortunate sometimes if it's bad enough they just need to be replaced.
@@AdrianSchwizgebel you can just remove the pads before cleaning the bike, it's way easier and less work, than removing wheels and put a balloon......just saying. ;) just be sure how you remove it (the left and right pad, and front wheel and back wheel) so you can put after correctly.
Metal sinter would be good for city, sub-arctic, winter conditions like in Montreal Canada?... meaning very wet, slushy/snowy/frosty and salty conditions with a thaw after each wet ride. My bike is black but with all the salt stains it looks really dirty. It's not always slushy but when it is, it really IS. Right now i am using Tektro hydraulic brakes (mineral oil) with resin pads and i am considering a better, longer-lasting option if available. The e-bike i have has 20"x 4" fat tires. What do you think?
Sintered typically has better performance under high heat and will fade less. If you're downhilling long descents, you want sintered. Sintered also has better initial bite. Yes they do squeal, you just get used to it. Sintered pads on motorcycles and cars squeal too.
Having watched this video, I'm interested in switching from my current organic to metallic pads next, for more power (though I'm in mostly-dry NorCal). When swapping pad compound, I saw a SRAM video saying that I need to replace rotors together (so that they don't get mixed together): ua-cam.com/video/xTGHdFt5Y-s/v-deo.html (at 1:50~). Is this really recommended/necessary? Just wondering f this is rather a nice-to-do theoretical advice or a must-do practical advice?
What I've been able to gather with Googling is that if you sand your rotors and use brake cleaner to get all the old material off, you should be fine switching between organic and sintered/metallic.
I've got some questions. I ride a handcycle and they have 1 breaking surface, on the drive wheel. I've upgraded to hydraulic breaks but still don't have good stopping power. My handcycle is for road and I've hit speeds of up to 75 MPH at a race in Boston. I train on mixed use trails so I need to break a LOT and break for longer distances going down hills in heavy used areas. I burn up breaks about every 3 months or so. What pads would be best?
I’ve been running sintered metallic truckerco pads for a while but I want to try something a little smoother and more initial bite like semi metallics or ceramics
I don’t know if it’s just me but I really don’t like the feel of sintered pads because it makes the brakes feel inconsistent and crappy. I usually would run a semi metallic in damp or wet and organic in dry. I know sintered are the best for wet weather but I also can’t stand that high pitched screech that they make.
I don’t ride in wet conditions and I ride a trail bike fast, but like in the low 30’s fast, not DH speeds. SRAM G2 brakes. I prefer organic, aluminum backed brake pads. Every time I’ve tried metal/sintered I regret it due to the squealing and vibration. And that’s whether I set them up or my local shop. The noise is just not worth it to me.
Do Sintered Pads offer more braking power? I have a relatively new bike with guide RS brakes and they are not that flash. I see that the pads that the bike has come with are organic. I plan to change them to sintered in the hope of increasing braking power
Mark - I'll provide my input and opinion (but disclaimer, we are not affiliated with Worldwide Cyclery...yet...so this is just my real-world opinion). Technically, yes going to full-metallic pads will give you a physically-harder surface to bite your brake rotors. The initial feel will be actually stronger with your organics, but ultimately a full-metallic (sintered) technically give you more power on the charts. But also, more potential noise. Your Guide brakes are excellent regardless - maybe try to sand your current organic pads lightly with 80 grit paper to renew the surface and try that. Much of this is subjective...most of us at MTX prefer the feel and modulation of semi-metallics (organic) or our ceramics, but there will always be the die-hard sintered users. There is a chance that since your bike is new, the rotors may have had a little oil on them from the factory that wasn't cleaned - any trace will immediately ruin the pads. Try sanding the pads first, then yeah, you can try sintered and see how that works for you.
We got lucky with MTX Braking answering a lot of the comments on this video :) I agree with those guys. The verdict is that sintered can provide a bit more power but do also create more noise. The other thing to consider is that the pad material is just one factor. A lot of things go into how a brake feels and performs from bleeding to rotor size to proper break-in method etc. So make sure you've ticked all those boxes and considerations as well. Feel free to give us a call anytime though if you want to speak with a top notch mechanic about it.
To add one other element to this question: you may end up preferring the feel of the semi-metallic (organic) pads over metallic, so in order to easily maintain that feel but gain the power you're looking for, go up a size on your rotors. You can go up to 203mm front or rear (which is really rare that people do, but you certainly can). A 203mm up front and a 180mm in back with semi-metallic pads might be your ideal situation. You'll just need some adapter brackets to bump up a size - its a simple bolt on mod).
Hi MTX Braking. Thanks very much for the comments and advice. This is much appreciated. I will try and give them a light sand before changing. I agree the noise of more metallic pads is annoying. I ran more metallic pads on my last bike and those brakes were noisy but they were also powerful. I tend to get myself into trouble on occasions so my current set up is concerning. I will tinker with them as most people and yourselves tend to believe these brakes are good stoppers. Cheers
You're very welcome. One of our primary missions with this business is to educate our potential customers so they understand what their options are, and how different configurations can alter your experience for the better. The Guides really are great brakes, but like anything, bike parts are subjective. In our back-to-back testing, its just hard to beat the semi-metallic (organic / resin) pads in many cases (they sell 2:1 in most markets over full-metallics), believe it or not.
@@mtxbraking I tried to buy two pairs or rl121reds a few weeks ago but you only had one pair left in stock, i just placed an order for a set or RL121s.
You did not talk about which one wears out faster. Wouldn't metal pads last longer than organic? And doesn't organic require 'bedding' i.e. transferring the brake material before so it can grip the rotor well or something?
I run organic on my Norco Aurum a 7.2 DH bike. Fitted into Sram Guide R 4 piston hydraulic callipers with 203mm rotors.. it’s what the bike came with. They are Nice and quiet. It’s Generally dry with very little dust where I ride. Occasionally can be damp but never had a problem. They stop and stop good,, the best thing is the total lack of noise. I hate squealing brakes...and as a DH bike to make them last we just don’t use the brakes,,, speed is your friend. 🤪
Strava Leagues unfortunately we don't have any scientific data on that one where those are compared back to back. But it is known that sintered last longer than organic, especially in the occasional mud and rain.
Iv done 25 years of Uk riding, lots of muddy gritty winter stuff on organic and they last for ages ( Managed to go through 1 set on a week of Alps riding in the wet, but thats super extreme ) ... Ie a couple of years and considering you can get a set of pads for a fiver, not going to break the bank.
Brand new aztec ms 120 pads on the rear and a fluid change at the shop for front n back brakes on trek rail,the lever has gone flimsy on the rear yet my front shimano pads from may 2022 has loads left on it,has any one had the same problem or should i go back to the shop and ask why my rear fluid n pad swap has gone flimsy?
Sram rotors are always noisy either they howl or turkey gobblle in the wet under heavy braking which is why i use shimano rotors on my sram brakes. Silent under all conditions.
Not sure what kind of weather you're mostly riding in. If it's mostly dry going with resin is always a safe bet. Resin is a bit quieter and a better feel than metal but if it's wet than metal will definitely last longer.
in chemistry, basically every material which is based on carbon is defined as "organic". So since the plastic resin is a polymer, which are carbon molecule chains, it is called "organic".
I've heard that organic pads have stronger initial bite and that sintered pads are better at dealing with heat for longer descents. Is that accurate? I just bought a set of organic and sintered pads and just chucked one in each caliper since I just had no idea and other people have said they do it.
Where I live most of the descents are short with small burst of breaking. I feel organic works better for this, they seem to warm faster giving their best performance sooner. I'd say sintered work better on longer descents
Full metal sqeelly guy ... I ride no matter what conditions there are. But in my forests the grass and trails are 90% with a bit of humidity on them, only in summer you get the odd days when everything is bone dry
Jeff Low good question; because they want to sell you their brake pads with their rotors. And potentially to cover themselves with their lawyers. There is so much misinformation in the MTB community about braking products, which is why we started MTX. You’re certainly (and obviously) ok to match products but you absolutely don’t need to.
Organic is better. If your sinthered pads last too long they can collect grease and your pistons won't move freely as they've collected grease too around them making them not flow right. Organic is softer so it bites better when the brakes aren't "warmed" up. Changing the pads isn't much of an issue and you can push your pistons back so they can flow better again.
Well unless you are doing any maintenance then yes, but if you clean your brakes after every or other every ride, then no. But organic glaze quicker as they are unable to dissipate heat quickly enough.
@@janlabij7302 Yeah right. You think every rider is like you? I come from a GP background. Cleaning the entire bike (parts included) after practice between races is the NORM sonny boy.
@@rider65 How wonderful! A genuine GP background! I'm so impressed. And, of course, every rider is like you, from a genuine GP background, not like me, merely a guy who rides either for pleasure or to get somewhere.
@@janlabij7302 No, most are not. Very astute muppet boy! BUT, you don't have to have a GP background to be smart enough to MAINTAIN and care for your bike. By all means... stay the ass clown that you are! :-D You're a bike shops wet dream... ride the bike, poorly maintain it, spend more money that is probably necessary. #dope
When I'm shredding downhill and rocks flying I don't really give a flying fcuk about brake noise. I wanna be able to stop. That is why I use metallic. Btw it's not even noisy at all if it's not dirty, but it just bites like a great white. I love it.
(and to clarify, some countries are sensitive to the use of copper which is often used in semi-metallics/resin/organics...I didn't catch your sarcasm).
Nice looking bike but poor quality control or poor transport.Rear wheel has major issues right out of the box. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Rear axle is bent! Derailleur is misaligned.Since the rear wheel comes assembled I would have expected better.Assembly instructions poorly written, but that was not unexpected...just annoying.I just had the bike checked at a shop and was told that I should contact the seller about getting a whole rear wheel assembly with cartridge. (The bike shop could not do anything to help me).Not a good experience with this bike, so lesson learned.Added 3 stars for excellent customer serviceUpdate Sept 8 2020Just received a complete replacement wheel for free. Great service and an otherwise fine bike.
Really love you comparisons there no bs and straight to the point. Your not trying to sell anything but rather inform
Sintering is the process of compacting and forming a solid mass of material by heat[1] or pressure[2] without melting it to the point of liquefaction.
I don’t use brakes. Just aim for the nearest tree and pray.
You mean 'coward levers'...
Do you use brakes?
I always put a stick into my spokes it works fine
I go Sintered for Fall, winter, and spring, then organic for summer. Since the PNW gets a nice mix.
Sintered all the way, every couple hundred miles I give my rotors a scrub with 800 grit sandpaper, it stops the squeal
If I get squeal I just find a really big downhill, it generally goes away with heat.
I use:
- sintered in front
- organic in rear
This is actually a pretty good idea too.
I'm going to try that. My organic/resin front brake pads always squeak like hell. While the rear resin pads are quiet. I have 2 bikes with the same type of brakes. Same issues.
One of each in each caliper is better
Tu esi no lv?
“Just buy any of them and probably wont even notice the difference” Best words of wisdom I’ve heard today.
Organic / Aluminum! Quiet and work good. Don't really care that they don't last as long as they still last plenty long and aren't very expensive... maybe I just need to ride more :)
Old video but just watched this and very good as all your other videos. Fun to watch and very educational.
Awesome! Thanks for watching. :)
i have ran the organic pads riding downhill, the organic pads work but burn off fast and smell very weird. the worst part is they make a wicked squeal and your rotors will get a film on them that makes them squeal even after you change to sintered. i would recommend swapping out organics to sintered on a new dh bike before you even run them.
thanks mjs1231...i only have dh bikes and bmx so i don't have any smaller rotor brakes...good heads up though!
I don't quite understand your statement - you can run any compound you want, regardless of the size of the rotor (unless you're just suggesting to stick with sintered if you're running big 203mm rotors).
If you do get a glaze on your pads, and even the rotors, you can safely sand that glaze off to refresh the surface (use 80 grit or 120 grit paper). That helps a lot to give you a new contact surface.
What if I'm ridin' dirty? I'm on Shimano metallic in the SoCal high desert mainly because I'm 210lbs.
For my EX8 I use Galfer Green Pro up front (proprietary compound) on my Galfer WaveDisc rotor. Tektro ceramic-semi metallic out back on the stock rotor.
Sintered are better in general. Though it does depends on type of riding and conditions.
I know this is an old video, but I loved the last line.
I ride in wet and run resin pads, don't care! Has worked well for me and it will too
if you ride in the cold the resin pads will give a good bike without needing to warm up like metal pads do, FWIW.
Sintered pads wear out your rotors faster too.
My rotors sometimes make a terrible sound from my metal pads
I'm still running a really old set of Magura rotors 203 front 180 back and they are fine and will probably outlast the Magura MT brakes.
I've been using Resin Pads in this very rainy south Florida Summer and they make so much noise when dirt/mud gets in there. I'm looking forward to trying semi-metalics next.
Organic only, like the quieter braking.
I've heard sintered is good for those of us that are heavier :) a question is if my resin pads are worn out but my centerline rotors are still good can I change pads without worrying?
FoVision yeah typically a set of rotors will last 5+ brake pad changes no problem.
I think that is pretty high (5+). Every rotor has a "minimum thickness" rating that the user needs to watch. 5 sets of pads is a lot.
Loves me some Shimano metallic pads on my XTR Race brakes.
sintered pads on resin only brake disk rotor
Or as it should be called 'a cheap nasty rotor'.
Metal pads all the way for me ! I ride street and trails in asphalt
Are metallic pads easier to decontaminate once they got any oil on them? Just an assumption because my experience with cleaning contaminated resin pads is very bad.
Metal pads are maybe a little easier to clean but they are both hard to get all contamination out once they get soaked with oil. Unfortunate sometimes if it's bad enough they just need to be replaced.
Worldwide Cyclery I somehow suspected that answer. From now on I remove both wheels and put a balloon over the calipers when cleaning.
@@AdrianSchwizgebel you can just remove the pads before cleaning the bike, it's way easier and less work, than removing wheels and put a balloon......just saying. ;)
just be sure how you remove it (the left and right pad, and front wheel and back wheel) so you can put after correctly.
Metal sinter would be good for city, sub-arctic, winter conditions like in Montreal Canada?... meaning very wet, slushy/snowy/frosty and salty conditions with a thaw after each wet ride. My bike is black but with all the salt stains it looks really dirty. It's not always slushy but when it is, it really IS.
Right now i am using Tektro hydraulic brakes (mineral oil) with resin pads and i am considering a better, longer-lasting option if available. The e-bike i have has 20"x 4" fat tires.
What do you think?
Hi, could you please tell me what pads are good for storm rotors? Mrtalic semi or organic?
Sintered typically has better performance under high heat and will fade less. If you're downhilling long descents, you want sintered. Sintered also has better initial bite. Yes they do squeal, you just get used to it. Sintered pads on motorcycles and cars squeal too.
I run sintered metallic pads year round on all my am/fr/dh/en bikes
I think Kevlar is better for me, I live in Scotland. It is wet and muddy. I also wonder if ceramic ones are good or not.
Having watched this video, I'm interested in switching from my current organic to metallic pads next, for more power (though I'm in mostly-dry NorCal). When swapping pad compound, I saw a SRAM video saying that I need to replace rotors together (so that they don't get mixed together): ua-cam.com/video/xTGHdFt5Y-s/v-deo.html (at 1:50~). Is this really recommended/necessary? Just wondering f this is rather a nice-to-do theoretical advice or a must-do practical advice?
Asking the same question and noticed no one answered you over the year since you posted.
What I've been able to gather with Googling is that if you sand your rotors and use brake cleaner to get all the old material off, you should be fine switching between organic and sintered/metallic.
That sounds about right. I an not planning to replace rotors any time soon.
Do hope rotors work with metal pads?
I've got some questions. I ride a handcycle and they have 1 breaking surface, on the drive wheel. I've upgraded to hydraulic breaks but still don't have good stopping power. My handcycle is for road and I've hit speeds of up to 75 MPH at a race in Boston.
I train on mixed use trails so I need to break a LOT and break for longer distances going down hills in heavy used areas. I burn up breaks about every 3 months or so.
What pads would be best?
i was running organic pads but I'm switching to sintered because i want pads that last longer and have a better bite
I’ve been running sintered metallic truckerco pads for a while but I want to try something a little smoother and more initial bite like semi metallics or ceramics
You guys are awesome and very informative and honest I’m also buying a set of maxxis minion tires from your online store!
Awesome thank you very much! Glad to hear you are enjoying our content, let us know if there is anything specific you want to see :)
4:45 THIS is what I needed to hear 😆
I don’t know if it’s just me but I really don’t like the feel of sintered pads because it makes the brakes feel inconsistent and crappy. I usually would run a semi metallic in damp or wet and organic in dry. I know sintered are the best for wet weather but I also can’t stand that high pitched screech that they make.
In Zagreb when it rains metal pads squeek like the train. That is why I use resin here
I don’t ride in wet conditions and I ride a trail bike fast, but like in the low 30’s fast, not DH speeds. SRAM G2 brakes. I prefer organic, aluminum backed brake pads. Every time I’ve tried metal/sintered I regret it due to the squealing and vibration. And that’s whether I set them up or my local shop. The noise is just not worth it to me.
2:48 I died lol thanks for the great info. Keep the videos comin
No problem! Let us know if you have any other topics you want to see us cover :)
Worldwide Cyclery the feeling of Fox forks vs Rock Shox in the Enduro segment
Worldwide Cyclery differences in types of shock, high-end vs low-end and piggy back shocks
Do Sintered Pads offer more braking power? I have a relatively new bike with guide RS brakes and they are not that flash. I see that the pads that the bike has come with are organic. I plan to change them to sintered in the hope of increasing braking power
Mark - I'll provide my input and opinion (but disclaimer, we are not affiliated with Worldwide Cyclery...yet...so this is just my real-world opinion). Technically, yes going to full-metallic pads will give you a physically-harder surface to bite your brake rotors. The initial feel will be actually stronger with your organics, but ultimately a full-metallic (sintered) technically give you more power on the charts. But also, more potential noise. Your Guide brakes are excellent regardless - maybe try to sand your current organic pads lightly with 80 grit paper to renew the surface and try that. Much of this is subjective...most of us at MTX prefer the feel and modulation of semi-metallics (organic) or our ceramics, but there will always be the die-hard sintered users. There is a chance that since your bike is new, the rotors may have had a little oil on them from the factory that wasn't cleaned - any trace will immediately ruin the pads. Try sanding the pads first, then yeah, you can try sintered and see how that works for you.
We got lucky with MTX Braking answering a lot of the comments on this video :)
I agree with those guys. The verdict is that sintered can provide a bit more power but do also create more noise. The other thing to consider is that the pad material is just one factor. A lot of things go into how a brake feels and performs from bleeding to rotor size to proper break-in method etc. So make sure you've ticked all those boxes and considerations as well. Feel free to give us a call anytime though if you want to speak with a top notch mechanic about it.
To add one other element to this question: you may end up preferring the feel of the semi-metallic (organic) pads over metallic, so in order to easily maintain that feel but gain the power you're looking for, go up a size on your rotors. You can go up to 203mm front or rear (which is really rare that people do, but you certainly can). A 203mm up front and a 180mm in back with semi-metallic pads might be your ideal situation. You'll just need some adapter brackets to bump up a size - its a simple bolt on mod).
Hi MTX Braking. Thanks very much for the comments and advice. This is much appreciated. I will try and give them a light sand before changing. I agree the noise of more metallic pads is annoying. I ran more metallic pads on my last bike and those brakes were noisy but they were also powerful. I tend to get myself into trouble on occasions so my current set up is concerning. I will tinker with them as most people and yourselves tend to believe these brakes are good stoppers. Cheers
You're very welcome. One of our primary missions with this business is to educate our potential customers so they understand what their options are, and how different configurations can alter your experience for the better. The Guides really are great brakes, but like anything, bike parts are subjective. In our back-to-back testing, its just hard to beat the semi-metallic (organic / resin) pads in many cases (they sell 2:1 in most markets over full-metallics), believe it or not.
Good info as always thank you!!!
I like my brakes to make a little noise on the downhills. It means hikers can hear me and I don't need to ring the bell.
Did MTX ever send you those organic pads to try?
We're working on it. I need to contact Liam this week - thanks for the reminder.
@@mtxbraking I tried to buy two pairs or rl121reds a few weeks ago but you only had one pair left in stock, i just placed an order for a set or RL121s.
This was great.
Now do a video about brake calipers and what are multi piston calipers. Thank you.
Thanks for the idea! Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
You did not talk about which one wears out faster. Wouldn't metal pads last longer than organic? And doesn't organic require 'bedding' i.e. transferring the brake material before so it can grip the rotor well or something?
Yes, organic tend to wear out faster. However both materials require "bedding" or "breaking in". Especially on fresh rotors.
Worldwide Cyclery Awesome thank you for clearing my misunderstanding.
hi is semi metallic pad differs?
Metal sintered . Last longer and works good enough in wet and dry .
Don’t use my brakes much anyways 😂😂🤙
What are benefits of ceramic pistons in brake calipers?
Daniel Wiltshire good question! I'm not sure. We should ask Shimano :)
My guess is weight and heat dispersion.
Its about heat just as you said.
Metal for sure. Way longer lasting and with everything adjusted properly i've not really had too much issue with noise.
Can you tell what type of SRAM brake pad it is by the color the pad backing?
Yes!!!!!!! Comedic introw mang!!!!!!!
what has the strongest bite over all any and all conditions? semi-metallic?
Is it true? do you have to run a specific rotor for the sintered metal brake pads?
is there any difference in fading between resin pads with cooling fin vs metallic pads without cooling fin?
I run organic on my Norco Aurum a 7.2 DH bike. Fitted into Sram Guide R 4 piston hydraulic callipers with 203mm rotors.. it’s what the bike came with. They are Nice and quiet.
It’s Generally dry with very little dust where I ride. Occasionally can be damp but never had a problem. They stop and stop good,, the best thing is the total lack of noise. I hate squealing brakes...and as a DH bike to make them last we just don’t use the brakes,,, speed is your friend. 🤪
How quickly do organic pads wear out compared to sintered in uk conditions?
Strava Leagues unfortunately we don't have any scientific data on that one where those are compared back to back. But it is known that sintered last longer than organic, especially in the occasional mud and rain.
Iv done 25 years of Uk riding, lots of muddy gritty winter stuff on organic and they last for ages ( Managed to go through 1 set on a week of Alps riding in the wet, but thats super extreme ) ... Ie a couple of years and considering you can get a set of pads for a fiver, not going to break the bank.
btw this video was super helpful thanks so much
Brand new aztec ms 120 pads on the rear and a fluid change at the shop for front n back brakes on trek rail,the lever has gone flimsy on the rear yet my front shimano pads from may 2022 has loads left on it,has any one had the same problem or should i go back to the shop and ask why my rear fluid n pad swap has gone flimsy?
Left pads sintered, right pads organic
Considering it's front and back and different countries run different sides...
What trail are you on in this video? what city?
Suicide in Oak Park, CA :)
Norther europe organic in the summer metalic in the winter organic pads in the winter ar worn out after 200 miles or so.
Hayes: Hold my beer (Sintered and semi metallic)
Need some run of the mill pads for my rear hub motor converted MTB for commuting 🤔
1 sub added ❤
TRP semi metallic copper.
So organic is quieter but not silent correct? I still hear howl sound from Organic pads on road bike sram rotors.
Sram rotors are always noisy either they howl or turkey gobblle in the wet under heavy braking which is why i use shimano rotors on my sram brakes. Silent under all conditions.
Correct - organic / semi-metallic DO still have metallic content which can make noise at times. Nature of the beast.
What about Ceramic pads ?
Look at the comments toward the top - we talk about ceramics. They're coming...
Awesome, looking forward to getting some on my Hope Tech 3 E4s :D.
We haven't tried any yet but looks like MTX is going to bring some to market!
@@WorldwideCyclery We want to send you some of our Red Label RACE (ceramic) brake pads to test. ASAP. Please let me know if we can arrange this....
I run one of each in both brakes 😀
Resin
So if i ride in the snow i should go with sintered or semi metallic?
sintered
any pad type tip for austria.
Not sure what kind of weather you're mostly riding in. If it's mostly dry going with resin is always a safe bet. Resin is a bit quieter and a better feel than metal but if it's wet than metal will definitely last longer.
Worldwide Cyclery in summer it can be pretty try and in the winter there is most times snow and sometimes it is pretty rainy but not so often
East Coast = Metal. Got it.
West Side
I don't know what is exactly organic in an artificial resin pad though...
in chemistry, basically every material which is based on carbon is defined as "organic". So since the plastic resin is a polymer, which are carbon molecule chains, it is called "organic".
Fair enough explanation. Thanks!
I've heard that organic pads have stronger initial bite and that sintered pads are better at dealing with heat for longer descents. Is that accurate? I just bought a set of organic and sintered pads and just chucked one in each caliper since I just had no idea and other people have said they do it.
We have heard that claim as well. Honestly it is really hard to quantify that. I can't confidently say it is true or not.
I think it's very accurate.
Where I live most of the descents are short with small burst of breaking. I feel organic works better for this, they seem to warm faster giving their best performance sooner. I'd say sintered work better on longer descents
Braking.
Organic have metal shavings? Mine do and say organic?.? Anybody know?
do sram pads fit into shimano?
I would say they won’t
Full metal sqeelly guy ... I ride no matter what conditions there are. But in my forests the grass and trails are 90% with a bit of humidity on them, only in summer you get the odd days when everything is bone dry
No mention of rotor type...if you are switching compound, or getting new pads you need to make sure the rotor is compatible with that type of pad.
In my opinion that is a misconception. Most rotors are 410 stainless steel and can interchange with several compounds of pads and work perfectly.
Why do manufacturers specify pad type on the rotor them?
Jeff Low good question; because they want to sell you their brake pads with their rotors. And potentially to cover themselves with their lawyers. There is so much misinformation in the MTB community about braking products, which is why we started MTX. You’re certainly (and obviously) ok to match products but you absolutely don’t need to.
You know what's better at drawing out heat than steel or aluminium... copper.
Feel resin pad when long desening feel soft then metal pad. even dry weather metal stop faster.
what size wheel is that
Got some code rsc’s on my Fezzari pretty sure they are sintered pads. They loud as hell. Sounds like a goose under water
Same here
You know what i just use what it come with the brakes and if its wear out just buy new one the same dont really cRe
I’m a morbidly obese borderline alcoholic father. I run organic and they work great and stop my big fat ass @250lbs on my hard tail no problem.
Whet weather.
Wtr iligit find it the other way round
Organic, aluminum
Organic is better. If your sinthered pads last too long they can collect grease and your pistons won't move freely as they've collected grease too around them making them not flow right. Organic is softer so it bites better when the brakes aren't "warmed" up. Changing the pads isn't much of an issue and you can push your pistons back so they can flow better again.
Well unless you are doing any maintenance then yes, but if you clean your brakes after every or other every ride, then no. But organic glaze quicker as they are unable to dissipate heat quickly enough.
@@rider65 Clean brakes after every ride? Yeah, right.
@@janlabij7302 Yeah right. You think every rider is like you? I come from a GP background. Cleaning the entire bike (parts included) after practice between races is the NORM sonny boy.
@@rider65 How wonderful! A genuine GP background! I'm so impressed. And, of course, every rider is like you, from a genuine GP background, not like me, merely a guy who rides either for pleasure or to get somewhere.
@@janlabij7302 No, most are not. Very astute muppet boy! BUT, you don't have to have a GP background to be smart enough to MAINTAIN and care for your bike. By all means... stay the ass clown that you are! :-D
You're a bike shops wet dream... ride the bike, poorly maintain it, spend more money that is probably necessary. #dope
And now I know!
What I learned here, sintered is for "Hhwwet"
When I'm shredding downhill and rocks flying I don't really give a flying fcuk about brake noise. I wanna be able to stop. That is why I use metallic. Btw it's not even noisy at all if it's not dirty, but it just bites like a great white. I love it.
Metal pads fade in hot dry conditions.
What's your point? Organics fade in every condition...
They shouldn't. The upside to having rotor eating is no fade. If yours are fading, try a different brand.
They don't sell organic pads in Great Britain
Winterfell 7102 I will research this but I am assuming because of the copper content.
MTX Braking I think they actually sell them, although the weather in GB is not ideal for 'em
Winterfell 7102 ha yeah I see what you’re saying of course.
Winterfell 7102 resin pads
(and to clarify, some countries are sensitive to the use of copper which is often used in semi-metallics/resin/organics...I didn't catch your sarcasm).
Nice looking bike but poor quality control or poor transport.Rear wheel has major issues right out of the box. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Rear axle is bent! Derailleur is misaligned.Since the rear wheel comes assembled I would have expected better.Assembly instructions poorly written, but that was not unexpected...just annoying.I just had the bike checked at a shop and was told that I should contact the seller about getting a whole rear wheel assembly with cartridge. (The bike shop could not do anything to help me).Not a good experience with this bike, so lesson learned.Added 3 stars for excellent customer serviceUpdate Sept 8 2020Just received a complete replacement wheel for free. Great service and an otherwise fine bike.
I thought this was about Kale...
Putting car brakes on bikes.
I run a $170 Schwin, so whatever POS that thing comes with.
тормоза придумали трусы!
You literally said the same thing over and over for the first 4 minutes
you get a dislike simply because of the prices on those links you provided... other than that... great vid.