About to make my first Architectural model for final presentation. Thank you so much for really improving the quality of my work. Been practicing with the different techniques.
love the foamboard buildings series. I've been watching them all day! Just a quick thought that might help, you can do this in 2 ways: 1st, head down to your local matting and framing shop with you foamboard, smile at them and ask them, "Can you do a 45 degree bevel cut on these please? I just need them cut in half at 45 degrees." The will smile and say, "Sure! What's it for?" at which point, you tell them what you need it for, they come up with other great ideas and you make a new friend. Option 2, go to the local craft store and buy your own matte cutter that does foamboard and forget about new friends. just have them cut in half at 45 degrees and then you can use opposite sides when building your buildings. The new friend method gets the help of someone who has several repetitions doing it and a higher quality matte cutter. the higher quality cutter will also get you different angles like 22.5 degrees and 67.5 degrees for some more diverse shapes. Quite often you will get a very experienced framer who can cut out the whole model in a few minutes with interesting bevels in the windows and doors and all kinds of flare. They probably would enjoy doing it because most of them are artists who matte and frame to pay the bills and the chance to do something creative will get them excited.
Very helpful video Mel, Another good way of hiding a join is to use a piece of 6mm square balsa wood as buttress on the corners. You can even keep it as a single piece of foamboard.
Very nice examples, thanks. I had used a bevel technique, but cutting each piece with 45degree knife and then glued two pieces. I just looked up the rabbet cutter on Amazon and they are only $20 and that seems well worth it.
very useful. ty sir I will apply these tips next time. the problem i did with my foam board is using a knife that was too thick and it ended up sticking/pulling the foam and giving me very uneven cuts, the exacto style knives are always best for the job.
Cheers matey. You'll probably find that those are caused be a too higher cutting angle. Check this mate ... ua-cam.com/video/o5qHfkGC37s/v-deo.htmlm52s
For cutting rabbets/rebates* in foam core, it's pretty easy to put a depth gauge on the blade of the knife. A couple of thin strips of gaffer's tape around the blade at the depth and angle that you prefer works pretty well. If you're doing a lot, soldering a wire on either side of the blade at the right place will work even better, though that's obviously the more complex technique. Alternatively, a box cutter can often be set at the perfect depth for reliably cutting the foam without cutting the face paper. They're designed for opening boxes without cutting any of the packaging inside, and it turns out that the walls of those boxes are quite close to the thickness of foamcore. Both of these will dull the tip of the blade more quickly than usual, as you're only using the tip for cutting. * I think "rabbet" is the current US term (though it came into the language from French in the 14th century) and "rebate" is the more common current British term.
Thank you! Now I understand how to hide the joins! I only use Balsa Wood on my models and I think Filler is going to be my best choice! I've been searching for tutorials on Architectural Models, unfortunately, I did not find any..
I am using filler (we call it spackle in the US, for skinning gypsum wallboard) on Mel's recommendation and it is such a good tip. 3.5 gallons for about 9 dollars and it's enough to.... well it's enough. It'll dry out long before I use it all UNLESS we decide to remodel the basement sooner rather than later.
@@TheTerrainTutor hello, in America is the filler essentially spackle that one would use to cover holes in their inside walls before painting? I make projects which foam core board yet I need to find something to make the edge look more finished. So I was thinking the filler might be my best option. If it is not the same as spackle would you please let me know what the filler is that you use? Thank you in advance for your help I truly appreciate it. Have a beautiful day ❤️ I have not found any information on making the edges of foam core board look more finished online anywhere. Yours is the best and dare I say the only. Thanks again.
I have pretty much done the beveling, I think I'll try in one piece, I've just covered the corner with glued on paper on some pieces, rabbiting in one piece would take some time figuring out the measurements.
Great video, just one advice. Your ruler is not a scraping tool. You probably realized how fast that foam dulls sharp blades. It will take away a little material from your ruler. You might still use it, but don't use the "0" end where precision counts.Same is true when scraping with the blade, if you scrape with the backside, which usually works even better, you don't kill your blades as fast.
If you know anything about woodworking, many of the same or similar techniques work with the foamboard. You could join them with box joints I'd bet, though it's a little bit of work
Thank’s a lot for your sharing, I know « Foamerks » with lot solutions but so expensive and I thing you’re in the good reality. Sorry form my English, I’m a real french and speak‘s isn’t easy. Sam 💚 Pyrénées
"...and ladies." HAHA. Politically correct Mel. I just had someone start a High Elf Army of the female gender in my vicinity. It happens. I wish I had foam board around here because this tut was excellent man. Awesome techniques.
Hi there, Nice and very informative tutorial. Could you please tell what filler did you use? I heard that most fillers will eat the foam? Thanks and Well Done again!
Howdy there Mel, just a quick question. In my unfailing quest to find the perfect hobby knife handle, I've purchased a few that looked comfortable but when I received them them were sorely lacking. I just noticed the one you used in this video and am wondering if you recall the manufacturer and model of this Hobby Knife? Any clues would be helpful. Thank You for your tutorials, they are VERY helpful and entertaining to say the least...
Great video!! Cant wait to use it to make some walls for Infinity the game. question though... What kind of glue do you like to us to keep a nice firm hold? I plan on doing the Beveling method.
The second technique is what would be called a rebate joint or shoulder joint in woodworking. (The Americans seem to call a rebate a rabbit.) The final joint is a mitre joint.
the Americans call it a rabbit, us British people tend to call it a re-bait. and a "continuous re-bait" is called a dado, actully... after re-watching the video its not really a dado because you are folding it back on its self..... what you cut though was a dado.. And the bevel is called a miter en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabbet en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dado_(joinery) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miter_joint They are methods used in carpentry for centuries :)
You are the foam bored king. lol :-) Do you do or will you should I say.. be doing a vid on interlocking joints? Or would you consider it an impractical idea? :-)
LOL - I wouldn't say that mate but thanks. I'll probably cover it at some point but it's is a bit impractical considering the amount of cuts you have to make.
TheTerrainTutor Thanks Mel. I think I have it straight now. Not sure how it on your side of the pond, but I now realize that here there is "foamcore" (foam with paper sheathing) & "foamboard" (foam with cardboard sheathing). Thanks for all your videos. You have inspired me to start putting my artistic abilities to use. I scratch built a seven piece 28mm rock wall set and molded it for "mass" production (actually more like quicker production) and listed them on eBay. I've had lots of lookers but no buyers yet. I'm guessing it takes a bit for people to bite on a new seller, so I'm just working on expanding my product line and keeping my fingers crossed for customers. I think sometime in the next few months I'm going to make some "this is how I do things videos" and see how it goes. Again thanks for the inspiration and keep up the awesome work.
Mr Terrain Tutor, first of all i would like to say that your videos are inspiring so much so my brain is melting with ideas. When it comes to cutting you foam core, have you thought of using any of the foam core cutting tools? Here is a link to a place i found that has these tools (although they seem pricey) www.cavalierart.com.au/catalog/boards-and-cards/foam-core/foam-werks-foamboard-cutters Hope this helps, keep up the fantastic work.
About to make my first Architectural model for final presentation. Thank you so much for really improving the quality of my work. Been practicing with the different techniques.
Awesome mate, good luck!
love the foamboard buildings series. I've been watching them all day! Just a quick thought that might help, you can do this in 2 ways:
1st, head down to your local matting and framing shop with you foamboard, smile at them and ask them, "Can you do a 45 degree bevel cut on these please? I just need them cut in half at 45 degrees."
The will smile and say, "Sure! What's it for?" at which point, you tell them what you need it for, they come up with other great ideas and you make a new friend.
Option 2, go to the local craft store and buy your own matte cutter that does foamboard and forget about new friends.
just have them cut in half at 45 degrees and then you can use opposite sides when building your buildings.
The new friend method gets the help of someone who has several repetitions doing it and a higher quality matte cutter. the higher quality cutter will also get you different angles like 22.5 degrees and 67.5 degrees for some more diverse shapes. Quite often you will get a very experienced framer who can cut out the whole model in a few minutes with interesting bevels in the windows and doors and all kinds of flare. They probably would enjoy doing it because most of them are artists who matte and frame to pay the bills and the chance to do something creative will get them excited.
Family Mini Gaming I'll give it a go matey, thanks for the heads up!
Never thought of continuous bevel, would have made a project so much easier. Lots of great ideas Mel. Thanks.
No worries matey
Thank you for sharing your skills with us. The bevel looks best in my opinion 🥰👍
Very helpful video Mel, Another good way of hiding a join is to use a piece of 6mm square balsa wood as buttress on the corners. You can even keep it as a single piece of foamboard.
Dan Cain Yeah, I remember seeing Viv do that in one of his tutorials, nice technique.
Very nice examples, thanks. I had used a bevel technique, but cutting each piece with 45degree knife and then glued two pieces. I just looked up the rabbet cutter on Amazon and they are only $20 and that seems well worth it.
Glad it helped bud
for some reason I can't find ANY informative videos on the internet regarding foamboard THANK YOU SO MUCH THANK YOU THANK YOU THKNA OY
Hey google flite test and look at their free builds it's for planes but I use the concept for my buildings and walls really clean corners.
thank you!
very useful. ty sir I will apply these tips next time. the problem i did with my foam board is using a knife that was too thick and it ended up sticking/pulling the foam and giving me very uneven cuts, the exacto style knives are always best for the job.
Cheers matey. You'll probably find that those are caused be a too higher cutting angle. Check this mate ... ua-cam.com/video/o5qHfkGC37s/v-deo.htmlm52s
For cutting rabbets/rebates* in foam core, it's pretty easy to put a depth gauge on the blade of the knife. A couple of thin strips of gaffer's tape around the blade at the depth and angle that you prefer works pretty well. If you're doing a lot, soldering a wire on either side of the blade at the right place will work even better, though that's obviously the more complex technique.
Alternatively, a box cutter can often be set at the perfect depth for reliably cutting the foam without cutting the face paper. They're designed for opening boxes without cutting any of the packaging inside, and it turns out that the walls of those boxes are quite close to the thickness of foamcore.
Both of these will dull the tip of the blade more quickly than usual, as you're only using the tip for cutting.
* I think "rabbet" is the current US term (though it came into the language from French in the 14th century) and "rebate" is the more common current British term.
nice to see someone use "rebate"!
+5 points for using gaff tape :)
I'm gonna try and build some buildings today. Thanks Mel!
Crack on!
Your videos are usually great but this one is really up there!
Maybe you should add this one to your basics playlist?
+soundwave810 It's always a struggle picking which playlist vids should be in lol
About to start my first foam board building, great video, thank you, I subscribed.
Great Tutorial, looking forward to trying out some of these techniques once I get started on my own builds.
Excellent, let me know how you get on mate
Just the tutorial I needed! Thanks!
absoluty great vids, im learnig so much as a beginner in making models
+Mark Leenders Glad it's helping bud :-)
Thank you! Now I understand how to hide the joins! I only use Balsa Wood on my models and I think Filler is going to be my best choice! I've been searching for tutorials on Architectural Models, unfortunately, I did not find any..
Hope the rest of the foamboard playlist is just as useful mate
I am using filler (we call it spackle in the US, for skinning gypsum wallboard) on Mel's recommendation and it is such a good tip. 3.5 gallons for about 9 dollars and it's enough to.... well it's enough. It'll dry out long before I use it all UNLESS we decide to remodel the basement sooner rather than later.
@@TheTerrainTutor hello, in America is the filler essentially spackle that one would use to cover holes in their inside walls before painting? I make projects which foam core board yet I need to find something to make the edge look more finished. So I was thinking the filler might be my best option. If it is not the same as spackle would you please let me know what the filler is that you use? Thank you in advance for your help I truly appreciate it. Have a beautiful day ❤️ I have not found any information on making the edges of foam core board look more finished online anywhere. Yours is the best and dare I say the only. Thanks again.
Very nice collection. I prefer the 45° angle solution, but normally cut through the board.
I'm not good enough to pull that off mate lol
I need to send you some girls to cheer for you. ;)
For perpendicular lines...use a small Square you can get them from micro Mark
In the past, I have used cardboard to hide my basic joints. Was good an functional, yet made everything look like a shipping container... ;)
I've seen that done with cardboard and plasticard, I think it looks pretty cool mate
I have pretty much done the beveling, I think I'll try in one piece, I've just covered the corner with glued on paper on some pieces, rabbiting in one piece would take some time figuring out the measurements.
Good video and ideas for making wall corners.
Thanks mate
Great video, just one advice. Your ruler is not a scraping tool. You probably realized how fast that foam dulls sharp blades. It will take away a little material from your ruler. You might still use it, but don't use the "0" end where precision counts.Same is true when scraping with the blade, if you scrape with the backside, which usually works even better, you don't kill your blades as fast.
Good tips matey
cheers matey
Nicely done and very informative.
john volker glad you found it helpful mate
If you know anything about woodworking, many of the same or similar techniques work with the foamboard. You could join them with box joints I'd bet, though it's a little bit of work
I personally prefer to dovetail my edges.
Thank’s a lot for your sharing, I know « Foamerks » with lot solutions but so expensive and I thing you’re in the good reality. Sorry form my English, I’m a real french and speak‘s isn’t easy.
Sam 💚 Pyrénées
"...and ladies." HAHA. Politically correct Mel. I just had someone start a High Elf Army of the female gender in my vicinity. It happens.
I wish I had foam board around here because this tut was excellent man. Awesome techniques.
Thank you for this video!! It was so helpful
Glad it helps, hope the rest of the playlist is as helpful bud!
Great tutorial Mel.
Cheers matey
Hi there, Nice and very informative tutorial.
Could you please tell what filler did you use?
I heard that most fillers will eat the foam?
Thanks and Well Done again!
+MeC Photographers Fillers won't harm the foam mate, there's no solvent in them. I use B&Q's home brand, Diall I think it's called
Thank you very much Mate!
I've tried them and worked just fine!
Again well done!
M.
cool tips, I want to do an imperial guard bunker and wondered how to do a beveled surface on the wall openings
Howdy there Mel, just a quick question. In my unfailing quest to find the perfect hobby knife handle, I've purchased a few that looked comfortable but when I received them them were sorely lacking. I just noticed the one you used in this video and am wondering if you recall the manufacturer and model of this Hobby Knife? Any clues would be helpful. Thank You for your tutorials, they are VERY helpful and entertaining to say the least...
What type of filler did you use? I am using foam board for a ceiling and looking for a way to remove lines.
Great video!! Cant wait to use it to make some walls for Infinity the game. question though... What kind of glue do you like to us to keep a nice firm hold? I plan on doing the Beveling method.
PVA mate
What's the best filler to use for this thx great video
Nice tutorial... very informative... BTW, what filler are you using?
Thanks mate, I use Polycell's Polyfiller but most good fillers will do
I was thinking of just gluing paper over the building and cutting it on the corner, so I only have one edge to hide. These are good options though.
That'll work well
Great techniques buddy.
Cheers matey
They make adjustable mat board cutting knives where you can set a beveled edge. I wonder if that would work?
The second technique is what would be called a rebate joint or shoulder joint in woodworking. (The Americans seem to call a rebate a rabbit.) The final joint is a mitre joint.
great tutorial, nice tips and tricks :)
Cheers mate
this vid is realy usefull!
Cheers, Ian
Thanks mate
What is used for your filler?
your a good person.
+Katie Hunter I try to be :-)
GREAT VID!
another great tutorial! thanks for this :)
No worries mate, glad you liked it
Very useful tips
Thanks
How would you cover the top foam part then ?
I was thinking about using paper, but the texture wouldn't be the same
Good info
the Americans call it a rabbit, us British people tend to call it a re-bait.
and a "continuous re-bait" is called a dado, actully... after re-watching the video its not really a dado because you are folding it back on its self..... what you cut though was a dado..
And the bevel is called a miter
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabbet
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dado_(joinery)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miter_joint
They are methods used in carpentry for centuries :)
You are the foam bored king. lol :-)
Do you do or will you should I say.. be doing a vid on interlocking joints? Or would you consider it an impractical idea? :-)
LOL - I wouldn't say that mate but thanks. I'll probably cover it at some point but it's is a bit impractical considering the amount of cuts you have to make.
What if we use 2mm foam boards ? Would the problems be solved ?
I’ve found a better way ! Use blade #11
hi, i was wondering if you could use an envelope opener to obtain one of the flaps.
julio ramirez peña Can't see why not matey
mainly because envelope openers tend to be slimmer in gap than the thickeness of the tool
45 degree picture mounting card cutter
@terraintutor What do you use as filler?
Diall ready made filler from B&Q mate
What type of filler?
What is that material
It is Tuesday my dudes
what is that green board with the lines called? im trying to find it
self healing cutting mat
Is that gatorboard or something else?
Foamboard mate
TheTerrainTutor
Thanks Mel. I think I have it straight now. Not sure how it on your side of the pond, but I now realize that here there is "foamcore" (foam with paper sheathing) & "foamboard" (foam with cardboard sheathing). Thanks for all your videos. You have inspired me to start putting my artistic abilities to use. I scratch built a seven piece 28mm rock wall set and molded it for "mass" production (actually more like quicker production) and listed them on eBay. I've had lots of lookers but no buyers yet. I'm guessing it takes a bit for people to bite on a new seller, so I'm just working on expanding my product line and keeping my fingers crossed for customers. I think sometime in the next few months I'm going to make some "this is how I do things videos" and see how it goes. Again thanks for the inspiration and keep up the awesome work.
That's what I was thinking, but atm thinking ain't a strong point lol :-)
lol, join the club mate
Yeah
I'm still lacking with my wonderful cutting ability lol
Practice makes perfect mate, keep at it!
I did a hangar by watching your videos. Pass by my channel if you have time.
Cool, i've subbed you and I'll check it out mate
its rebate, the Americans call it a rabbit
Mr Terrain Tutor, first of all i would like to say that your videos are inspiring so much so my brain is melting with ideas.
When it comes to cutting you foam core, have you thought of using any of the foam core cutting tools? Here is a link to a place i found that has these tools (although they seem pricey)
www.cavalierart.com.au/catalog/boards-and-cards/foam-core/foam-werks-foamboard-cutters
Hope this helps, keep up the fantastic work.
Salem Ravenwood I've seen them before,just haven't been able to get my hands on them yet.
"engage the brain!"
:D
I do have to tell it sometimes, occasionally it listens mate lol
sup elim peps
Levi Davidson Suh dud
Rebate
Awesome tips Sir. Really helpful. Thank you so much. ^_^
No worries mate, glad you found it useful
Great tips.
cheers mate