First, thanks for your videos, they are the best available. 1. The Roberts stapler you used in this video was great. It retails for a little over $100 and is very reliable and convenient. It recommends Duro-Fast or Sure Bonder staples, 3/16" narrow crown 9/16" shank. These are tough to find so order early. I used DeWalt staples in the same spec. After a few hundred shots, not one malfunction. The gun is also small, which is a special treat when trying to get under the nose on the side that is open to view. 2. OMG, problems with the padding. In each step, ensure your padding is in place. Working from the bottom can disloge it, especially if you have traffic or big dogs. I had to rip up three steps because my padding was bunched up against the riser. 3. Don't be a knucklehead like me and assume your factory edge is square, or more likely, it's square but your stairs are not. I started out a quarter inch off, and then 3/4 on the next tread. This precipitated a battle back and forth all the way up the stairs. 4. If you have a problem, rip it up, but be careful at the edges, that can fray the factory edge. 5. I didn't have a factory edge on the end of my runner to finish at the top step. Therefore, I ran up to the top tread, stapled in the join of the tread and riser, and pulled the runner up along the upstairs flooring, cutting each side below the flooring at the edge with a razor knife. I then folded it back upon a board and cut it with a straight edge. I was too conservative. I had to trip twice, but it's very forgiving as long as you don't cut too much. If you do, you can always pull up the the join between the riser and the tread, secure the carpet at the top so it looks nice, and smooth down the rest to hide your mistake.
Hi Keith I noticed sometimes u use smooth edge but sometimes u don’t. Any particular reason? Or how to determine when it’s needed? What setting is used for the kicker? U have been amazing with tutorials. Thank u!
How much of a gap do you leave between the padding on the tread and the surface of the riser? I've seen "one finger width" recommended up to a whole inch. My guess is about a 1/4" - 1/2" depending on the thickness of the runner being installed, but I just don't know.
Nice work Keith! Question, which way is better to install the carpet padding? Is it better to go over and around the nosing, or cut padding up to the where tread begins to round off? Will I get better wear going around the nosing, or will that make for a bulkier look? I've seen it done both ways.
That is a great question. Carpet will always wear better if you run them under padding over the nose, but yes, it can get bulkier and it can show from the side out of the front of the stair runner now if you don’t have a side view and you can deal with that gap you can always put the padding over the edge. We only usually run our padding up to the nose of the stair just because we know how it looks, when it runs over now, there’s two schools of thought some people always wanna run it over because that’s what the manufacturer recommends but we’ve been installing for a long time and we have noticed that we’d like it to go nice and tight against the nose of the stair
Love the way it looks
Thanks
First, thanks for your videos, they are the best available.
1. The Roberts stapler you used in this video was great. It retails for a little over $100 and is very reliable and convenient. It recommends Duro-Fast or Sure Bonder staples, 3/16" narrow crown 9/16" shank. These are tough to find so order early. I used DeWalt staples in the same spec. After a few hundred shots, not one malfunction. The gun is also small, which is a special treat when trying to get under the nose on the side that is open to view.
2. OMG, problems with the padding. In each step, ensure your padding is in place. Working from the bottom can disloge it, especially if you have traffic or big dogs. I had to rip up three steps because my padding was bunched up against the riser.
3. Don't be a knucklehead like me and assume your factory edge is square, or more likely, it's square but your stairs are not. I started out a quarter inch off, and then 3/4 on the next tread. This precipitated a battle back and forth all the way up the stairs.
4. If you have a problem, rip it up, but be careful at the edges, that can fray the factory edge.
5. I didn't have a factory edge on the end of my runner to finish at the top step. Therefore, I ran up to the top tread, stapled in the join of the tread and riser, and pulled the runner up along the upstairs flooring, cutting each side below the flooring at the edge with a razor knife. I then folded it back upon a board and cut it with a straight edge. I was too conservative. I had to trip twice, but it's very forgiving as long as you don't cut too much. If you do, you can always pull up the the join between the riser and the tread, secure the carpet at the top so it looks nice, and smooth down the rest to hide your mistake.
Hi Keith I noticed sometimes u use smooth edge but sometimes u don’t. Any particular reason? Or how to determine when it’s needed?
What setting is used for the kicker?
U have been amazing with tutorials. Thank u!
Really depends on the type of carpet
How much of a gap do you leave between the padding on the tread and the surface of the riser? I've seen "one finger width" recommended up to a whole inch. My guess is about a 1/4" - 1/2" depending on the thickness of the runner being installed, but I just don't know.
We will leave 1/4 inch to 1/2
Nice work Keith! Question, which way is better to install the carpet padding? Is it better to go over and around the nosing, or cut padding up to the where tread begins to round off?
Will I get better wear going around the nosing, or will that make for a bulkier look? I've seen it done both ways.
That is a great question. Carpet will always wear better if you run them under padding over the nose, but yes, it can get bulkier and it can show from the side out of the front of the stair runner now if you don’t have a side view and you can deal with that gap you can always put the padding over the edge. We only usually run our padding up to the nose of the stair just because we know how it looks, when it runs over now, there’s two schools of thought some people always wanna run it over because that’s what the manufacturer recommends but we’ve been installing for a long time and we have noticed that we’d like it to go nice and tight against the nose of the stair