To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Amazing learning experience. This coil replacement was very interesting and having spare parts is a godsend. Being a mechanical whiz is also helpful, it's not all about soldering. The ceramic capacitor lesson was invaluable, I had no idea. Such a great series, each episode is inspiring. Thanks Mr C for the unquestionable expertise and quality camera work, second to none. See you next time. 73
I quickly learned the shortcomings of cell phone pics then began doing fly around video but even then you always have a view that you wish you had gotten.
My Hallicrafters S-20R will be up for a refit next year, I did all the electrolytic caps when I got it a few years ago I am looking forward to give it a good service. Thanks to Paul and others of his ilk I now have a better understanding of these communication receiver's. Iv'e been building and repairing valve/tube guitar amps for nearly 40yrs and still learning!
Great series, I'm following along. An interesting deep dive would be remaking the melted coils. I think many of us who might encounter this don't have the benefit of a parts set to salvage coils from. Thanks for taking the time to document your work on this beautiful receiver!
I would suggest cooking the bad coils with a heat gun while using pliers to remove the remains of the plastic, then 3D print a new form to wind new coils on.
Absolutely loving this amazing series Paul. I surely can’t be the only one finding it difficult to wait patiently for each new episode! Would love to have seen the coils restored somehow. Following along with great interest from Melbourne AUS.
Paul, making a hand drawing of where the wires are connected to is a great way to make sure you don't make a mistake putting things back together. I have done the same thing years before I ever thought of taking photos.
Thank you for another great video! These old radios are just so fascinating. The face and side plates are probably made of such heavy steel because the unit was designed to be rack mounted.
Great stuff as usual. When you cleaned your soldering iron it reminded me of an instructor I had. He used to check the horizontal output tube by running his finger across the plate cap. He didn't even blink. I don't think he had a finger print on his right index finger.
I've known of electricians who have used their thumb and index fingers to test for live wires so often they no longer have any feeling in those two fingers. Scary.
Professor Carlson I so much enjoy your troubleshooting technique and analysis. The receiver is moving right along and looking real good. Can't wait for your final testing etc.....
Yes Paul pictures are a backup to figuring out the wiring on the coils but pictures don't see in 3D this is why our eyes are so useful because they see in binocular vision however pictures are very useful because you can see in zoom mode. My daughter is a doctor and she gave me a pair of her older binocular eye glasses that have a long focal length. These are very useful because now I can see in binocular vision and in zoom mode, videos are quite useful as well when you move around at different angles simulating binocular vision and recording for latter viewing.
Replacing the melty coils on a new tube structure would not be a fun task. Luckily you had a spare chassis to replace the "baked" ( Shango term ) coils. Great explanation about why they use tubular capacitors. Man there are a lots of screws, nuts, and washers in the receiver's sides and front faceplate. Thanks for the tip about getting matching paint at a hardware store. Should look brand new when done. Great series so far Paul!
You know, I kind of like the old nicks and blemishes. Puts me in mind of where it's been and it's history....like you say, every piece of gear has a story! Clean is good, but little dings are OK by me too. Good job on those coils, Mr. C. Must have been a cable goof or some really strong overload to actually melt the forms, ouch! RF will certainly do that. The panel and chassis had to be battleship-tough because it hung in a 19-inch rack and all that mass was cantilevered out there from the front face plate, so it had to be American iron! Carry on and thank you!!
Hello. Thank you so much for all your experience that you share with us, in your videos: I appreciate that very much. This comment is off topic though: I wish you could make also a video explaining about imperial screw sizes. I am in Europe, we use M sizes and we hardly understand how to navigate with imperial metrics. The reason for asking about this subject is that even in Europe some antique radios were built using imperial size screws, and I have learnd from you how important is also to keep the screws matching (which might require to replace entire sets). So, my problem is about recognizing the correct size of them, so that I can be able to order them correctly. I apologize if my request and explanation appears convoluted. I trust that you understand that my request is genuine. Thank you for your attention. Regards, Daniele
Paul the quality of that RCA could never be duplicated with today's cheap manufacturing trends. They don't care about making products that last a lifetime anymore and it's really a bad thing. I miss the days when products were made to work very well and last over 20 years before a rebuild was required and it was possible. In my Army days (1980s) we would rebuild (not exchange) anything that got worn out.
This has been very interesting rebuild! I have learned so much, but I always do learn more and more from each of your rebuilds. As far as bench mats go, I get mine from the local auto parts store for free! They will often give you their old counter mats, and sometimes they get extras and will give you new ones. I also like to put all my hardware that I remove into little ramakins, that way I don't knock them onto the floor. 73's Mike
Learning a lot from this series. The explanation of the ceramic capacitors was particularly interesting. Thank-you. I just wish I could find a set of original knobs for my AR 88, which a previous owner had "modernised" with horrible plastic and metal knobs.
I have to agree with you, Paul. Pictures are great, but you have to draw the physical connections. I do it all the time. I do like to verify the connections with the schematic. Better safe than sorry.
@35:50 you mention cost......What I like to do is research the original retail price back in the day and convert it to today's equivalent. It puts things in perspective.
I very much enjoy this rebuild job on a fine, old radio receiver. Thank you. If you'd like to see a more modern radio that was built that well, take a look at a Motorola SyntorX, mobile radio for the serious first responder and government market. (Think FCC, FBI, US Marshall's, big city police and fire departments, etc.) They were built in the 1970's, and I think you can stand on top of one with a garden hose pouring down on you while you make a contact on 2 meters. The 100W version that I had safely and easily tuned up to 160 watts, so I installed a 3 position power switch for 5W, 50W, and 160W. I was told by a net control op in MI that I sounded like God. (That's certainly good for a ham's radio ego.) I was running 5W from 30 miles away into the Bay City, MI repeater. I used that old Motorola radio with an equally old GE mobile mic. After learning a great deal about the rigs, and tuning them up, I simply have no interest in any newer mobile rig from anyone, because they just don't do the basics of radio nearly as well as a rig from the 1970's. Those were the golden years of radio, when they spent all their time trying to make the rigs better, just before they switched to spending all their time trying to make them cheaper.
I guess Mr. Carlson's solder finger has become like my Grandpa's fingers as he used to test live AC circuits up to 220 volts with two fingers. The skin on those fingers became like shoe leather which apparently limited current flow. Grandpa cautioned me not to test for voltage that way and gave me my very first neon voltage tester.
Paul, you mentioned that you might just rewind these coils, would love to see you do that sometime with the steps needed to accomplish this like sizing the wire without the enamel and probably counting the turns but first I imagine test the coil for.Henrys or Micro Henry's ect....
If those dials are not glued and can be taken off It may be a good idea to do so and gently scan them with image scanner (or MFP) to get its digital copies which can be used in future to make a reproduction if needed. And generally, to my mind, this procedure can be done to thousands of other samples of vintage electronics devices by hundreds of people around the world (if there is a physical opportunity to do this of course)
When you draw your coils on paper it wasn't clear that you were recording the direction of each winding which might be important in some situations if both windings end up connected in series or used for coupling as in an IF transformer.
And idea for some future video: how to read schematics that feature multi wafer switches. Did a Yaesu FT-102 a while back, it was a pain to figure out the positions.
I find it interesting, that the US was using color codes for decades, while the same era equipment from the eastern bloc didn't have color codes, instead having values directly printed/painted on the case, even for those small ceramic tubular caps or 1/8W resistors (МЛТ and OMIG series for example).
it is the same for every piece of technology or machinery older is ALLWAYS better better quality better construction better materials.. just better than the modern day Throwaway world we have become.. we do not repair anymore we just throw away and buy new...
So ... the tube caps have a NTC and "other components" have a PTC. Are the other components you speak of the mica caps or the tuning coils? This is a great series, really like your style.
So the color banding on on those caps, is very similar to resistor , except for end which identifys it. And the thermals, are PARD= periodic and random drift, until they stabilize.. Ok, that's a lot of engineering on that portion. Hugh Mc Chicago, metro. PS: You might want to try a small electric impact, for those nuts. It will make short work of them, save you a lot of time.
Very interesting. If necessary could new coils be wound? How difficult would it be? I think that could make for a nice DIY video. Thank you for all the lessons you teach us.
You may have shown this in another restoration video but what if you didn't have any replacement coils, how would you go about building replacements? Reason I ask is I have a project in the queue from years ago where the inductors are now unobtanium so would have to build possibly from scratch. TNX in advance! 73 - Dino KLØS
Thank you for new episodes of this series. I'm looking forward for new 'adventures'. As for questions, I have one regarding the spring on the side panel at 33'30". What is it?
I've watched so many of your wonderful restorations, but I have one question: When I disassemble something I always put the hardware into one or more tuna tins as I take it off. Whenever I leave it on the bench, even for a few moments, it's guaranteed that something will get lost. So how do you do it?
I wish I knew all of this before I ripped apart my function generator from the 70s. It also has a few of these rotary switches with many wires attached to them. I relied on a few pictures which turned out to be a big mistake.
Would it be possible to re-wind that burnt coil on a straw, or cardboard tube, or other non-ferrous thing? It's just a question of coil diameter, wire gauge, and number of turns, right?
It's always fun watching your videos! I'm a little surprised that you don't organize the parts as you remove them into some sort of container (I have used muffin pans, for instance, with six to twelve separate "cups" in them). Is there a reason you don't? Just curious.
Can the melted coils be heated with a heat gun and straightened if you don't have a replacement and they are electrically intact or will they just turn to mush?
To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Hi. What is the best quality electrolytic capacitors ?. Thank you. I love all your videos. I always learn something from those videos.
Paul this CR-88 series just gets better with each episode. Thank you!
Loving your attention to detail,as always…
i still have no clue about all that stuff.... but i love watching your videos as they are so fascinating and relaxing :)
Everytime i see your lab im amazed
👍Thank you. Really enjoying this series.
Paul you are a once in a lifetime natural electronics instructor.. a national treasure, your videos will last 1000 years..
Thank You for your kind comment!
Amazing learning experience. This coil replacement was very interesting and having spare parts is a godsend. Being a mechanical whiz is also helpful, it's not all about soldering. The ceramic capacitor lesson was invaluable, I had no idea. Such a great series, each episode is inspiring. Thanks Mr C for the unquestionable expertise and quality camera work, second to none. See you next time. 73
Bob Ross of electronic. Love your stuff
I was amazed to see you cleaning your soldering tip, just the way I do, sweeping my finger very fast over it to throw away the old solder!!!!
I quickly learned the shortcomings of cell phone pics then began doing fly around video but even then you always have a view that you wish you had gotten.
I absolutely love the zoomed in close ups at the start. Such clarity! Plus education about positive and negative temperature drift.!
Love your work! I'm appreciative of your projects! Thank you!
My Hallicrafters S-20R will be up for a refit next year, I did all the electrolytic caps when I got it a few years ago I am looking forward to give it a good service. Thanks to Paul and others of his ilk I now have a better understanding of these communication receiver's. Iv'e been building and repairing valve/tube guitar amps for nearly 40yrs and still learning!
Thank you for the detail in this continuing series. I'm looking forward to seeing your chassis cleaning and panel restoration process
Great series, I'm following along. An interesting deep dive would be remaking the melted coils. I think many of us who might encounter this don't have the benefit of a parts set to salvage coils from. Thanks for taking the time to document your work on this beautiful receiver!
I would suggest cooking the bad coils with a heat gun while using pliers to remove the remains of the plastic, then 3D print a new form to wind new coils on.
I like the term, "Friendly."
Absolutely loving this amazing series Paul.
I surely can’t be the only one finding it difficult to wait patiently for each new episode!
Would love to have seen the coils restored somehow.
Following along with great interest from Melbourne AUS.
Great demo on thermal compensation. Those coils really were bent out of shape, the power of RF! Another superb video.
Paul thanks for showing the details in this restoration just love it. Learn new stuff all the time from you. Enjoyed so much till next video 73s Mike
Everything was repairable and could be rebuilt years ago. Skilled labor is a lost art for many things. Great job Sr. Take care, Mike
Looking good Paul, hope you keeping well. Thanks for sharing.
Paul, making a hand drawing of where the wires are connected to is a great way to make sure you don't make a mistake putting things back together. I have done the same thing years before I ever thought of taking photos.
Mr Carlsons lab your vintage RCA CR-88 shortwave desktop receiver with ssb is awesome 👌 👏 👍
Thank you for another great video! These old radios are just so fascinating. The face and side plates are probably made of such heavy steel because the unit was designed to be rack mounted.
Great stuff as usual. When you cleaned your soldering iron it reminded me of an instructor I had. He used to check the horizontal output tube by running his finger across the plate cap. He didn't even blink. I don't think he had a finger print on his right index finger.
I've known of electricians who have used their thumb and index fingers to test for live wires so often they no longer have any feeling in those two fingers. Scary.
Your capabilities have amazed me. Now I’m mesmerized!!!!
Thanks for your kind comment Peter.
Professor Carlson I so much enjoy your troubleshooting technique and analysis. The receiver is moving right along and looking real good. Can't wait for your final testing etc.....
Amazing restoration, respect! And gorgeus video editing: it seems to be there with You! Thanks!
Very good advice, drawing the rotary switch/coil connections. I've done it the hard way, using the schematic, VERY challenging and a royal pain.
Absolutely super fun --- as always. Thanks for another informative and entertaining video. I appreciate the project.
Thanks for your continued attention to detail!
Yes Paul pictures are a backup to figuring out the wiring on the coils but pictures don't see in 3D this is why our eyes are so useful because they see in binocular vision however pictures are very useful because you can see in zoom mode. My daughter is a doctor and she gave me a pair of her older binocular eye glasses that have a long focal length. These are very useful because now I can see in binocular vision and in zoom mode, videos are quite useful as well when you move around at different angles simulating binocular vision and recording for latter viewing.
Replacing the melty coils on a new tube structure would not be a fun task. Luckily you had a spare chassis to replace the
"baked" ( Shango term ) coils. Great explanation about why they use tubular capacitors. Man there are a lots of screws,
nuts, and washers in the receiver's sides and front faceplate. Thanks for the tip about getting matching paint at a hardware store. Should look brand new when done. Great series so far Paul!
Great tip on the touchup paint. Thanks.
You know, I kind of like the old nicks and blemishes. Puts me in mind of where it's been and it's history....like you say, every piece of gear has a story! Clean is good, but little dings are OK by me too. Good job on those coils, Mr. C. Must have been a cable goof or some really strong overload to actually melt the forms, ouch! RF will certainly do that. The panel and chassis had to be battleship-tough because it hung in a 19-inch rack and all that mass was cantilevered out there from the front face plate, so it had to be American iron! Carry on and thank you!!
Hello.
Thank you so much for all your experience that you share with us, in your videos: I appreciate that very much.
This comment is off topic though: I wish you could make also a video explaining about imperial screw sizes. I am in Europe, we use M sizes and we hardly understand how to navigate with imperial metrics.
The reason for asking about this subject is that even in Europe some antique radios were built using imperial size screws, and I have learnd from you how important is also to keep the screws matching (which might require to replace entire sets). So, my problem is about recognizing the correct size of them, so that I can be able to order them correctly.
I apologize if my request and explanation appears convoluted. I trust that you understand that my request is genuine.
Thank you for your attention.
Regards,
Daniele
Nice information Mr Carlson sir. you are awesome Thanks for the sharing another fantastic video sir ❤❤.
You're very welcome Nath!
Awesome. Love the rubber band!
I Can't wait to see the result! 😀
It all started with a idea and with that idea it continues
Paul the quality of that RCA could never be duplicated with today's cheap manufacturing trends. They don't care about making products that last a lifetime anymore and it's really a bad thing. I miss the days when products were made to work very well and last over 20 years before a rebuild was required and it was possible. In my Army days (1980s) we would rebuild (not exchange) anything that got worn out.
This has been very interesting rebuild! I have learned so much, but I always do learn more and more from each of your rebuilds. As far as bench mats go, I get mine from the local auto parts store for free! They will often give you their old counter mats, and sometimes they get extras and will give you new ones. I also like to put all my hardware that I remove into little ramakins, that way I don't knock them onto the floor.
73's Mike
Learning a lot from this series. The explanation of the ceramic capacitors was particularly interesting. Thank-you. I just wish I could find a set of original knobs for my AR 88, which a previous owner had "modernised" with horrible plastic and metal knobs.
34:00 "desk killers"
Cut up Mrs. Carlson's yoga mat and put that under the studs
Great one Paul. That thing is build to last forever! It will sound amazing I am sure.
As always, another great video. Thank you.
I have to agree with you, Paul. Pictures are great, but you have to draw the physical connections. I do it all the time. I do like to verify the connections with the schematic. Better safe than sorry.
Fantastic radio reciever. My Father loved the AR88 thats very similar.You may like the BC779 which is supposed to be similar to Super pro 200
Thanks for this fascinating video, Paul.
@35:50 you mention cost......What I like to do is research the original retail price back in the day and convert it to today's equivalent. It puts things in perspective.
I very much enjoy this rebuild job on a fine, old radio receiver. Thank you.
If you'd like to see a more modern radio that was built that well, take a look at a Motorola SyntorX, mobile radio for the serious first responder and government market. (Think FCC, FBI, US Marshall's, big city police and fire departments, etc.) They were built in the 1970's, and I think you can stand on top of one with a garden hose pouring down on you while you make a contact on 2 meters. The 100W version that I had safely and easily tuned up to 160 watts, so I installed a 3 position power switch for 5W, 50W, and 160W. I was told by a net control op in MI that I sounded like God. (That's certainly good for a ham's radio ego.) I was running 5W from 30 miles away into the Bay City, MI repeater. I used that old Motorola radio with an equally old GE mobile mic. After learning a great deal about the rigs, and tuning them up, I simply have no interest in any newer mobile rig from anyone, because they just don't do the basics of radio nearly as well as a rig from the 1970's. Those were the golden years of radio, when they spent all their time trying to make the rigs better, just before they switched to spending all their time trying to make them cheaper.
11:45 I do it all the time 😁
it's the best cleaning method 😂
I guess Mr. Carlson's solder finger has become like my Grandpa's fingers as he used to test live AC circuits up to 220 volts with two fingers. The skin on those fingers became like shoe leather which apparently limited current flow. Grandpa cautioned me not to test for voltage that way and gave me my very first neon voltage tester.
awesome , cant wait for alignment
"the ... rubber band of science" LOL - best laugh of my day, Thanks
Mr. Carlson uses his fingers to clean a hot soldering gun! (This would top the list of "Chuck Norris" sayings!!!) LOL
You only catch a falling soldering iron twice, at the most!😲
That's an impressive heat tolerant finger Paul. I think shurap has you beat though, he cleans scale off glowing red hot steel with his finger.
When I'm looking at vintage electronic equipment I often ask the seller if they have seen Mr. Carlson's rebuild rebuild of that particular piece.
Paul, you mentioned that you might just rewind these coils, would love to see you do that sometime with the steps needed to accomplish this like sizing the wire without the enamel and probably counting the turns but first I imagine test the coil for.Henrys or Micro Henry's ect....
Thanks, Paul. I am not cleaning my soldering iron tip with my finger!
If those dials are not glued and can be taken off It may be a good idea to do so and gently scan them with image scanner (or MFP) to get its digital copies which can be used in future to make a reproduction if needed.
And generally, to my mind, this procedure can be done to thousands of other samples of vintage electronics devices by hundreds of people around the world (if there is a physical opportunity to do this of course)
"I Think, Mr. Carlson was it.. Let's take his fingerprints". "No chance, he hasn't any. He has skills in soldering"... :)
Actually yes - fingeretip - solder tip cleaning since high school in the 80s. ...and the "quick single shake". lol - but I didn't hear it here.
Thanks and please more is more!!!
If I was an octopus, Paul, I would give you eight thumbs up.
Too much coffee this morning indeed! Flicking the tip of the iron clean with your finger. Think of the children 😂
If you still have finger prints your aren't a real electronics tech, or chef.
Really smart 🤓
Warped plastic? You never know what Mr. Carlson is going to teach you!
When you draw your coils on paper it wasn't clear that you were recording the direction of each winding which might be important in some situations if both windings end up connected in series or used for coupling as in an IF transformer.
And idea for some future video: how to read schematics that feature multi wafer switches. Did a Yaesu FT-102 a while back, it was a pain to figure out the positions.
I find it interesting, that the US was using color codes for decades, while the same era equipment from the eastern bloc didn't have color codes, instead having values directly printed/painted on the case, even for those small ceramic tubular caps or 1/8W resistors (МЛТ and OMIG series for example).
it is the same for every piece of technology or machinery older is ALLWAYS better better quality better construction better materials.. just better than the modern day Throwaway world we have become.. we do not repair anymore we just throw away and buy new...
So ... the tube caps have a NTC and "other components" have a PTC. Are the other components you speak of the mica caps or the tuning coils?
This is a great series, really like your style.
My soldering iron doubles as a home tattoo kit.
Always cleaned the tip with my finger.
So the color banding on on those caps, is very similar to resistor , except for end which identifys it. And the thermals, are PARD= periodic and random drift, until they stabilize.. Ok, that's a lot of engineering on that portion. Hugh Mc
Chicago, metro.
PS: You might want to try a small electric impact, for those nuts. It will make short work of them, save you a lot of time.
Very interesting. If necessary could new coils be wound? How difficult would it be? I think that could make for a nice DIY video. Thank you for all the lessons you teach us.
You may have shown this in another restoration video but what if you didn't have any replacement coils, how would you go about building replacements? Reason I ask is I have a project in the queue from years ago where the inductors are now unobtanium so would have to build possibly from scratch. TNX in advance! 73 - Dino KLØS
Hi Dino, I will do a coil winding video in the future. Thanks for your input.
Thank you for new episodes of this series. I'm looking forward for new 'adventures'. As for questions, I have one regarding the spring on the side panel at 33'30". What is it?
It's a repair tag holder, (pinches the card against the chassis) and the center of the spring holds the Allen Key for the knob removal / installation.
Really enjoying the video. Would like to know if there is a solution for the damaged coils if you didn't have a donor unit. Thanks
Wiping the soldering iron tip with my finger drives my wife crazy. She says that I have developed 'asbestos fingers'.
As others have mentioned, great video series here. Can you mention what wattage soldering iron(s) you use in this type of restoration work? Thank you.
They are variable temperature, but the iron is rated for 80 Watts, and the other: 60 Watts. Between 375 and 400 degrees is where I use them.
@@MrCarlsonsLab Thank you. Good info to have.
I've watched so many of your wonderful restorations, but I have one question: When I disassemble something I always put the hardware into one or more tuna tins as I take it off. Whenever I leave it on the bench, even for a few moments, it's guaranteed that something will get lost. So how do you do it?
I've never seen coils that bad before. LOL.
I wish I knew all of this before I ripped apart my function generator from the 70s. It also has a few of these rotary switches with many wires attached to them. I relied on a few pictures which turned out to be a big mistake.
Would it be possible to re-wind that burnt coil on a straw, or cardboard tube, or other non-ferrous thing? It's just a question of coil diameter, wire gauge, and number of turns, right?
Have you looked at the Yaesu FT-710 AESS radio yet? They were released in October last year.
I think that UA-cam is exagerating on the ads. My point of view. Thanks for your videos and explanations.
Add an adblocker to your browser.
It's always fun watching your videos! I'm a little surprised that you don't organize the parts as you remove them into some sort of container (I have used muffin pans, for instance, with six to twelve separate "cups" in them). Is there a reason you don't? Just curious.
What soldering station does Mr Carlson reccomend? Thanks!
I tend to favor Hakko products, they seem to have the longest tip life.
Those nuts for the jack and potentiometer you think are not original seem to be "palnuts", quite common in electronics those days...
Can the melted coils be heated with a heat gun and straightened if you don't have a replacement and they are electrically intact or will they just turn to mush?
As always very interesting video ! Can I ask you how old are you to have all this knowledge ?
what kind of paint? i want to clean a rusty amp cover. ill sand it to the metal. should i use some kind of base before painitng? like cars?
Maybe it is time to switch to decaf. I know I had to about a year ago.
I've never seen tuning coils & formers that bad.
Why would those coils be wound on plastic tubes rather than something like glass?
I remember the time I blindly reached for my iron😂