Knife Sharpening - Revisiting pdTools 650 grit diamond bonded stone
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- Опубліковано 8 лис 2024
- Thanks to pdTools for sending this stone for me to test out. Although my results were not stellar, I can't fully blame the abrasive. I suspect during the course of my use, I damaged the edge on this knife, more than I realized. Since this plate is not very coarse, it was unable to remove, and grind out, this damage. Regardless, if you are interested in their products, the link is:
pdt.tools/en/
Also thanks to NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY for sending pdt to my channel, and making them aware of my content. His link is:
/ @northwestknifeguy
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These are some direct quotes from my interactions with pdTools about their products:
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Our company is one of the largest diamond tool manufacturers in the world. In addition, we were one of the first in the world to synthesize diamond. But unfortunately not everyone knows us as a manufacturer of diamond stones for knife sharpening. That's why we want to show our products to the world.
Price for such stone (as shown in my video) will be 128 USD (without delivery cost). Price will be the same for any grit.
Or we can use stone with smaller width (8" x 2"). Price for such plate will be 90 USD (without delivery cost).
To be honest, the most popular stones are those for sharpening knives by machine. This is why we do not have ready-made stones in stock. In general, we can produce any size and even label our stones in a special way. It depends on the customer's wishes. Which means if you want to sell our stones, we can add any inscription you want.
Regarding your questions:
Grit size available: from 60 grit up to 15,000 grit (from 250-212 um up to 0 up to 1 um); Grit size does not influence the price; 6"x1" mounted on a high-quality aluminum blank 3 mm or 4 mm / or without blank by request; Customization available; Brand name marking available.
About freehand sharpening - we are using 8" x 3" stones and have no blank. It`s full diamond stone. For such stones we prefer to use Metal bond.
We are producing them this way:
We prepare a mold with the desired dimensions of the product. We pour the diamond charge into this mold (this includes: diamond powder and bond. In our case it is a metal bond, which means it includes a whole list of different components. Copper, tin, etc.). Then all this is sintered at high temperature for 20-30 minutes. And then it is additionally processed. We mark the product, dress the diamond layer, make a chamfer, etc.
How is this different from ATOMA and other similar products. Sintering provides better retention of the diamond grit on the product. They just don't fall off as often when working.
If it is a galvanic (electroplated) method of applying the diamond grains to the product, then it is a different situation. In this process, there is no bonding, and the grains are attached to the body. Roughly speaking, the bond hides the grains and helps to sharpen the product, while in galvanizing (electroplated) the grains stick out and because of this they fall off faster. So sintering is better method of producing such things like diamond tools.
Hey man been on a bit of a break for a while, hope you and Connie are doing well and had a good Thanksgiving. After conditioning the stone as you suggested, using with mineral oil and also cleaning with a scouring stick I purchased from home depot the plate produced good results overall. I have since sent it off for a few people to try out, so far the first person a good buddy seems to really like it. The plate isn't for me however I think a lot of people out there will like the feel/results from it. I did enjoy playing around with it though, something different to experiment with.
Hope you had a good thanksgiving as well. I had to work on call, so mine was uneventful.
It’s awesome we have so many choices these days! If one item doesn’t suit our fancy, we can browse around and surely find something that does. Like you, I don’t think this plate is for me. My results on it are not fantastic. It is nice to try out, and i will probably do a giveaway on mine.
So you said you used a scouring stick? What is that exactly? Like one of those brick grinding stones? Or something else? What happened to the ferric acid? Did you not bother getting that stuff?
thanks for doing the follow-up on this pdt 650 grit diamond sintered plate Jef.. Always a pleasure watching your vids and hearing your thought on the stones. Keep em coming
Thanks for checking it out 🎉
Another great video, Jewelly! Thanks, bud.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Jef good video as always and thanks for sharing brother 👊🏼
Thanks for watching!
Thanks jeff enjoy your sharpening vids.
For what it is worth Christy used to make the Spyderco ultra fine ceramic his penultimate step, last being stropping.
5k Is usually my stropping point. Thats if i am going for a full on sharpening. Just a hair finer than the spyderco ceramic. Its probably closer to a 2-3k.
not be a hater but I legitimately question if that guy could even get a knife sharp without his constant reliance on like 20 different strops he would furiously swipe away at ranging from actual sharpening grits like 10 um (1500 grit) all the way to the sub-micron level. Anyone ever seen him actually get a knife sharp without using 5 different strops? I've seen quite a few of his videos and I don't believe I've ever seen it. Every video I've seen of him, he's grinding with stone in his hand, very unimpressively, looks amateurish frankly, then doing most of his actual work on strops, in an absurd and superfluous progression from actual sharpening grits all the way down, step by step, to sub-micron. If anyone has any evidence where he actually gets a knife sharp without using multiple strops, much less straight off a stone like Jeff and everyone else does, I'd love to see it. I don't understand what guys see in Mike's videos that impresses them at all.
@@TimJohnson-x1oHe definitely does his own thing. Just in my own personal opinion, anyone who can get effortless hair splitting edges like he does.. regardless of the method they use to get there,. is an expert in that method and their opinion is worth listening to.
Always enjoy your videos, it's funny to hear how you go about solving the same problems that I've had like continuing on the second side even though you feel the burr has swapped back over. I went about it a bit different by sticking to a number of strokes on each side. Just starting out with 20 strokes on one, 20 on the other, gradually developing an even apex until it burrs up. Took me a few months of looking at uneven bevels to change it up from the way I'd learned. How do you like Magnacut? It reminds me a bit of Maxamet aesthetically. I feel like with wear resistant steels, it's so hard to fully remove the burr, even to the point where I feel like the paper cutting at the end helps to remove the last little bit.
Yea, this burr was a booger to remove. As far as magnacut, it is amazing. At least in this knife. It keeps an edge even better than maxamet. That particular steel, was my favorite, till now 😆
I used to count strokes, as well. After some experience, i realized, it wasn’t necessary. As long as i try to keep an approximate amount of work on each side, it usually works itself out. This particular knife, had a bad factory grind. The bevel is very acute on one side. Not sure if you were able to see it in the close ups. The first video i did on this plate, really showed it. Slowly, I’m starting to meet it, with my own angle.
As you pointed out, that can also become apparent, when you sharpen more on one side, as opposed to the other. There are ways to fix it, but it just takes too much steel away. I don’t feel the need to do that, since it doesn’t really hurt the cutting capabilities. Least not in a noticeable when, from day to day use. Through use, and subsequent sharpenings, it’ll sort out.
@@Jef Better than Maxamet you say? Well damn guess I'll start shoppin for one 😂
Good video mate and to nad you arent getting along with it. We all like different stuff for sure 😊
Very true. Shame you can’t get your hands on those gritomatic sic stones. I’d love to see what your thoughts on them are
@@Jef yeah i would love to try em
Interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing. Did you try etching with ferric or phosphoric acid? That's what Poltava recommended to me.
This
I mentioned that in the beginning of the sharpening. No. I don’t have any. I used loose sic powder bc that was all i have. Northwest knife guy was supposed to use some and get back to me on the outcome. I never heard back from him so I’ve no idea if he was able to alter the surface texture 🤷♂️
@@Jef Thanks for the clarification. Stroppy stuff had a similar experience regarding initial quality inconsistency and he mentioned that he would try etching in my yt comment discussion with him, so I'm looking out for that update as well.
Right on. I’ll have to drop him a dm and see what results he got
I use Atoma diamond lates 300, 600, and 1200 followed by spydie medium ceramic stone. Bu I would like to try the spydie CBN 400/800 plate
Diamond plates are ok, for learning. However, they just remove too much steel. I’d prefer something like this, of the venev resin diamond stones. They are way less aggressive.
I tried some cbn stones that big brown bear had manufactured. They were similar to venev in the sense that they weren’t just laying on top of a plate. They had some sort of binder wore like a water stone. Similar again, to venev. I never quite got the hang of them. I kept comparing them to my sic stones, and i ALWAYS got better results, with the sic. Is that true for the spyderco as well? I don’t know. Never tried one.
@@Jef I use the spyderco medium and fine ceramic stones more as finishing stones. What I sharpen the most is a single bevel Japanese leather skiving knife. Whick looks like a wide flat chisel. My folding knives, after the initial dulling and sharpening off the burnt edge….got like 10 of em, I strop with white compound. Steels I use is mainly s30v. Leather knives; cladded super blue/white, or m4, or tool steel for the kiridashi type knives and other cutting tools like edge bevelers.
Need the diamond plates for flattening the backs especially for the hardened m4
Right on. I always found they cut very poorly, on large surface areas. They scream through steel, on v bevels. Thinning or flattening, they always felt slow, when compared to a water stone, that sheds grit readily. I’m thinking in particular, about the shapton pro 120. The Norton coarse crystolon (very underrated) too. Trouble comes into paradise, bc they wear so quickly. Therefore they loose flatness, quickly. Regardless, if diamond plates work for you, by all means, keep at it 👌. Just sharing with you, my experiences 👍
@@Jef also cos I don’t have to soak, lubricant of choice is a 50/50 water and windex. My atoma goes down to 120 grit, but that mainly for brand new Japanese leather knives outta the box with 62+ hrc for m4 or elmax(custom knife guy here in malaysia fav steel). I find it does cut slow but it’s a 1 and done…unless I drop the thing…I now have carpet under my work table hahaha 🤣
Nice convex bevel.
Yea most my bevels come out pretty round 😁
@@Jef Ain’t nothing wrong with that!
Hi Jef i would like to see d review of d new sharpton rockstar whetstone.
Perry sure they are going to be similar to Shapton glass but who knows 🤷♂️ Know anyone that has them in stock?
Nvm. I just ordered a set from japan. Will take few weeks to get here but ill hit a video when they arrive
Cool I will wait for the video jef thks
Just picked em up. Should shoot a video to ight or tomorrow
You're saying you don't like diamond compounds for stropping? I've always used DMT paste; usually the 1 micron; and gotten very good results. I almost never reapply I though. I just keep stropping until it's black 😅 I like the 6 micron stuff for stropping an edge back on a knife that I feel doesn't quite need a stone yet. I have tried diamond compounds I hated though. The DMT paste is really nice though 🤷♂️ Just wondering I you've tried it
You know, i think i have. I want to say my buddy max sent me some to test out. I can’t recall how my results faired, bc it was so long ago. I’ve only found a handful of diamond compounds i liked. The stuff that big brown bear sells on his site, from portland knife house(?), is fantastic. Can’t say the same, for all the others I’ve tried. Gunny juice has given me decent results, as well. I’ve got one side of this strop in the video, loaded with the 1 micron
@Jef Yeah it leaves like a waxy film on the strop. Like I said I haven't reapplied it in years now so maybe that's why I don't find it too "aggresive". Once in a blue moon I'll take a little oil and recondition it a little bit but other than that I just keep stropping. I think the surface of the leather matters too...I like the hair side of the leather but the surface is slightly abraded on my strop to give a little more more draw and kind of create a middle ground between the feel of the the knappy flesh side and the hair side. I've tried the DMT spray too (0.5 micron I think) and highly prefer the paste
@@AnarchAngel1 Id suggest anyone to get generic industrial diamonds. all the consumer grade stuff like that really shitty DMT spray are comically overpriced.
@user-xf4es7eh9y In the case of the paste, it lasts so long I'm not gonna bother with that. I've gotten a ridiculous amount of use out of that stuff. You rarely need to reapply it. In my opinion it's worth the money