Lazy actuator? The thought occurred to me, what if you were able to feed it more than 12 volts? [a booster shot if you will] Maybe 18v from a drill battery? Even if this would do it once to spring the latch, where can you get to the wiring? I don't think the upper tailgate switch gives any easier access. Maybe in the headlining? Or disconnect the main battery and feed 18v int the accessory side of the fuse using a drill battery you have grounded on the negative side.. then go and press the rear handle in the normal way?? Sorry, no idea if this would work, just musing at coming at it from a different angle.
I just completed this step and followed your guide to replace the actuator as well. Thank you for the help! I didn’t have the specialty cable tool and found that a 30 cm flat crow bar did the trick to dislodge the cable from the steel housing with a little leverage lined up properly (no hammering necessary). Cheers
your videos was amazing on releasing the actuator!! the only problem I had was the Florida heat and humidity, which turned me into a Tasmanian devil in about 20 minutes, I was thrashing about the back!! but I did get it open!! Thank you so much!!
My tailgate failed a few days ago but to my surprise it opened this cold morning so I took advantage and stripped the mechanism out. The latch was sticky but the motor had no torque. I stripped down the solenoid/actuator and tested the motor. It seems that motor inside has a inbuilt stall protection system which is probably a series thermistor. It runs for a few seconds before the current drops from around 2A around 150mA then rotates at a crawl. Reversing it makes no difference. The motor is Chinese with the part number FC 280SC 22125. 9 tooth pinion £2.49 each with postage of around £4 from Aliexpress. I have had good service from Aliexpress in the past but things take a bit longer than most. A slightly different version of the actuator is the Ford 1481081 which is fitted to the later Fiestas and similar. I guess the working parts could be swapped as the moulding is the same. FoMoCo P454K Thanks for the video, I was lucky I didn't get the grief that you went through.
My D4's has started getting intermittent, so a Fiesta activator is being put in an envelope in China - lets see if it can get to New Zealand before I get complete shutdown! I did notice the latch was quite stiff, so have liberally applied penetrating oil - it appears to have relieved some stress on the actuator. Thanks for the videos.
I added a second cable to mine connected to the original (made from an old bicycle brake cable) that comes out under the top trim of the tailgate so if I get either of these failures, all I have to do is fish out the second cable end and tug it to release the upper tailgate. The main problem is that I know I'll be doing that for months until I get round to fixing it properly 😀.
Thank you, after having the same problem, I followed your guide to replace the actuator as this morning. A tip though "Regarding losing the mojo as you described 🙂" , found out that some times if you wait you might have a chance of actuating it one more time in the morning. This helped me open the tail gate this morning and saved me a lot of time. After that the installation went exactly as you guided Thanks you all 🦾
Hello thanks for the great video instead of smashing the cable out I managed to get my fingers in to the cable and push it back worked a treat all thanks to this great video
My tailgate stopped opening and locked me out. I found that tapping the area around the mechanism (on the inside) with a rubber mallet helped get it open. Going to look for the video on fitting a new actuator.
Superb. Thank you. Only problem for me was that it wasn't the actuator which had failed. There's something odd with the electrics. It's supplying 9V to the actuator all the time. Now trying to fault find the rest.
Hello, thank you very much for your video and your very detailed advice. I have a 2007 D3 and I have this problem with a blocked trunk. I followed all your advice but when I released and pulled on the cable (the elbow end was actually broken), my upper tailgate did not open. No effect on the cable, impossible to pull it. Do you have another solution to help me out?
Thanks so much ! Followed your steps and fixed it however just my cable broke at the end where it elbows….my actuator might of been ok but I replaced it anyways and just super glued the end of the cable in there since the elbow was broken off lol. Some Alabama rigging so fingers crossed the glue holds ! But hey thanks to y’all I know how to get into the tailgate if it locks up on me again…CHEERS
You are the best! I fixed my LR4 exactly this way today. Including the replacement actuator piece from Ford, that you recommended. :) 🙏🏼💯 Love your content!
@@L663 Yes, unfortunately it completely failed while closed. The thing was, that it "sometimes" did not work, starting past summer. Then the function came back to 100% without me doing anything. And then, this May, it stopped working again and didn't move since. That's quite bad, thinking of our rather large family with dog(box), baby etc. - So thanks to online research, your helpful content and the proper replacement part, it works fine now again. Quite funny (but not), that 2 local shops, including an official one, recommended a solution with drilling (!) holes in the rear cover/carpet? That rang a bell, I said "oh wait", and found this solution here, with really 0% damage on the tailgate / covers / carpets afterwards. The internal dust cover which had to be opened I closed temporarily with tape, but also here, a replacement part is on its way. Thanks again! I really love your content, but also somehow, I hope that I don't need much of it in the future in practice. Cheers from Austria!
Great video! I think someone should make a template for the hole in the actuator where to push the cable holder to open the tailgate without removing the inside panel
I wonder if you can help🤞 Top Tailgate is opening fine but I will be fitting one of your secondary release mechanisms as a fail safe.. My problem is the lower tailgate is not functioning, will not open . Can you help please 🙏 And I was thinking could the manual device be fitted to upper and lower ( fit 2 ) if necessary Love your vids and hopefully you can help 🤞
Hello, it happens to me that when I press the button on the gate, it unlocks but remains stuck and in order to open it, I must press the button on the gate, plus the button on the electronic key
Strange - sounds like a faulty switch but its just a make / break switch so it seems to work if you press the button - what if you press the door button twice ? is it the 2nd "pulse" that is opening it ?
@@L663 oops! I just realized that the gate button doesn't actually work and I can only open the gate by pressing the gate button at the same time as the key button. If I only press the button on the key, the gate unlocks but remains latched.
I have the exactly same issue. I used to be able to unlock the tailgate with the second pulse on the key fob then just press the button on the tailgate. However that no longer works for some reason and I can only unlock and open now by pressing the third ‘LandRover’ button on the key fob plus pressing the button on the tailgate at the same time. If I only just press the button on the key fob it only partly unlocks the lifting section of the tailgate and the button on the tailgate won’t work. I wonder if it is a programming issue on the key fob or is it a precursor event that the actuator is shortly going to fail…?!
Hi - my background is a degree in mechanical engineering and a career in manufacturing companies - Sony / IBM etc but now I just love playing on cars and designing new parts for cars etc.
Hi I cannot open the upper tailgate of my land rover discovery 3 2006.I have crawled into the back and removed carpet and trim from lower tailgate to access actuator to discover that the cable has broken or come away from the lower tailgate lock/striker.Now that cable is disconnected How is it possible to open upper tailgate. Thanks Shane
Thanks for the video - heated up the plastic trim to reduce the risk of breaking and successfully released the upper tailgate as described. My actuator does fire though (altho intermittently I believe) so I'm wondering if the lock in the lower tailgate is the culprit - anyone advise on how to determine whether its functioning properly or needs replacing along with the actuator?
@@L663 yep, you were right: my lock seems okay. Thanks. Hey I had a nice surprise …having freed the lower carpet section, opened the upper tailgate (from the inside) and then unscrewing the side bolts and stays I DIDNT have to remove the upper plastic cover from the top of the lower tailgate, the carpet section just prized off (which provided all the access I needed to switch out the actuator). It slide back in pretty easily on reassembly. Thanks again guys. Empowering to diy. 😆
Lazy actuator? The thought occurred to me, what if you were able to feed it more than 12 volts? [a booster shot if you will] Maybe 18v from a drill battery? Even if this would do it once to spring the latch, where can you get to the wiring? I don't think the upper tailgate switch gives any easier access. Maybe in the headlining? Or disconnect the main battery and feed 18v int the accessory side of the fuse using a drill battery you have grounded on the negative side.. then go and press the rear handle in the normal way?? Sorry, no idea if this would work, just musing at coming at it from a different angle.
Thanks guys you've saved me a ton of time, blood, sweat and tears, oh and maybe some colourful language. great informative videos as usual.
I just completed this step and followed your guide to replace the actuator as well. Thank you for the help! I didn’t have the specialty cable tool and found that a 30 cm flat crow bar did the trick to dislodge the cable from the steel housing with a little leverage lined up properly (no hammering necessary). Cheers
Interesting alternative method but glad it helped. The hammering was perhaps a little severe but got the job done !
your videos was amazing on releasing the actuator!! the only problem I had was the Florida heat and humidity, which turned me into a Tasmanian devil in about 20 minutes, I was thrashing about the back!! but I did get it open!! Thank you so much!!
Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun !
@@L663 I love my Land Rover, there’s nothing like them. This is my fifth one keep the videos coming.
Thank you, brother. ❤️
After following your explanation today I was able to change the lock of my car by myself 🤗🤗🙋♂️
My tailgate failed a few days ago but to my surprise it opened this cold morning so I took advantage and stripped the mechanism out.
The latch was sticky but the motor had no torque. I stripped down the solenoid/actuator and tested the motor. It seems that motor inside has a inbuilt stall protection system which is probably a series thermistor. It runs for a few seconds before the current drops from around 2A around 150mA then rotates at a crawl. Reversing it makes no difference.
The motor is Chinese with the part number FC 280SC 22125. 9 tooth pinion £2.49 each with postage of around £4 from Aliexpress.
I have had good service from Aliexpress in the past but things take a bit longer than most.
A slightly different version of the actuator is the Ford 1481081 which is fitted to the later Fiestas and similar.
I guess the working parts could be swapped as the moulding is the same. FoMoCo P454K
Thanks for the video, I was lucky I didn't get the grief that you went through.
The fiesta one fits
ua-cam.com/video/nb0CCSmuALw/v-deo.html
My D4's has started getting intermittent, so a Fiesta activator is being put in an envelope in China - lets see if it can get to New Zealand before I get complete shutdown! I did notice the latch was quite stiff, so have liberally applied penetrating oil - it appears to have relieved some stress on the actuator. Thanks for the videos.
I added a second cable to mine connected to the original (made from an old bicycle brake cable) that comes out under the top trim of the tailgate so if I get either of these failures, all I have to do is fish out the second cable end and tug it to release the upper tailgate. The main problem is that I know I'll be doing that for months until I get round to fixing it properly 😀.
You are more cunning than a double headed fox !
Thank you, after having the same problem, I followed your guide to replace the actuator as this morning.
A tip though "Regarding losing the mojo as you described 🙂" , found out that some times if you wait you might have a chance of actuating it one more time in the morning. This helped me open the tail gate this morning and saved me a lot of time.
After that the installation went exactly as you guided Thanks you all 🦾
Thanks guys for all your efforts on these experiments you do, it really does help the discovery community world wide, keep up the great content 🇦🇺👍👍👍👍
Our pleasure!
Thank you for hammering your car for my entertainment / education.
Briliant havin' a go w/ the hammer! You also saved me the time removing that 3 bolt flap that I was going to remove...but no need!
Hello thanks for the great video instead of smashing the cable out I managed to get my fingers in to the cable and push it back worked a treat all thanks to this great video
Well done - you must have long thin hands and fingers !
Thanks for posting this video, it just happened to my Discovery 4, so I guess it's climbing into the back with a mallet and wood for me 😂
Make sure you check the keyfob release first - incase its just the boot switch gone !
Great help…..wouldn’t have done it without you guys.Job done.Thanks
Glad to help
My tailgate stopped opening and locked me out. I found that tapping the area around the mechanism (on the inside) with a rubber mallet helped get it open. Going to look for the video on fitting a new actuator.
This is actually a good idea - the vibration may help
Can’t even open the trunk to do this 😢
Did u manage to get it open, I’ve ran into the same issue
Very helpful video. Thanks so much I just had to get into the tailgate of my 2014 D4. Thanks again. 👍🇦🇺
Superb. Thank you. Only problem for me was that it wasn't the actuator which had failed. There's something odd with the electrics. It's supplying 9V to the actuator all the time. Now trying to fault find the rest.
Interesting ! could it be a bad earth ?
Hello, thank you very much for your video and your very detailed advice.
I have a 2007 D3 and I have this problem with a blocked trunk. I followed all your advice but when I released and pulled on the cable (the elbow end was actually broken), my upper tailgate did not open. No effect on the cable, impossible to pull it.
Do you have another solution to help me out?
Thanks so much ! Followed your steps and fixed it however just my cable broke at the end where it elbows….my actuator might of been ok but I replaced it anyways and just super glued the end of the cable in there since the elbow was broken off lol. Some Alabama rigging so fingers crossed the glue holds ! But hey thanks to y’all I know how to get into the tailgate if it locks up on me again…CHEERS
You are the best! I fixed my LR4 exactly this way today. Including the replacement actuator piece from Ford, that you recommended. :) 🙏🏼💯 Love your content!
Yes that ford fix is a bonus ! Did your actuator fail with it closed ? glad the video helped !
@@L663 Yes, unfortunately it completely failed while closed. The thing was, that it "sometimes" did not work, starting past summer. Then the function came back to 100% without me doing anything. And then, this May, it stopped working again and didn't move since. That's quite bad, thinking of our rather large family with dog(box), baby etc. - So thanks to online research, your helpful content and the proper replacement part, it works fine now again. Quite funny (but not), that 2 local shops, including an official one, recommended a solution with drilling (!) holes in the rear cover/carpet? That rang a bell, I said "oh wait", and found this solution here, with really 0% damage on the tailgate / covers / carpets afterwards. The internal dust cover which had to be opened I closed temporarily with tape, but also here, a replacement part is on its way. Thanks again! I really love your content, but also somehow, I hope that I don't need much of it in the future in practice. Cheers from Austria!
Great video! I think someone should make a template for the hole in the actuator where to push the cable holder to open the tailgate without removing the inside panel
Interesting idea - but its not that hard to follow my steps - no need to remove the panel.
Good job. Have you considered a fibre optic cable inspection camera for future use?
We do have one... could be useful for some of these hard to see things.... its lovingly called the "arse inspection camera" in the workshop
I wonder if you can help🤞
Top Tailgate is opening fine but I will be fitting one of your secondary release mechanisms as a fail safe..
My problem is the lower tailgate is not functioning, will not open .
Can you help please 🙏
And I was thinking could the manual device be fitted to upper and lower ( fit 2 ) if necessary
Love your vids and hopefully you can help 🤞
Is the solenoid replaceable? Should be cheaper that replacing the whole actuator
Hello wondering if you can help me? I've replaced the actuator but still nothing I think theres no power going to it, anything I can do for that??
Lazy solenoidz my new band name! Lol ! Thank for the detailed vid. Let me try now.
Thank God Tyler was there
Hi 👋 this is a great tool to open the door/gate ❤️❤️👍👍
Thanks 🙏 for
Hi Mr Virdi ! this job was not as bad as we had feared !
Just get a piece of 5mm rod and put a small right angle on the end and go through the hole at the back and give the cable a tug..
Sounds a good 😊 idea
Do you have part number for actuator? Good job without breaking plastics!
LAnd Rover PN is FUG500010
@@L663 Thank you for your quick response. Found shortly after writing.
Wow thank you mine is stuck and my mechanic is charging me almost $800😢
Hello, we changed it like you but Nothing happened no noise no Motion Nothing. What schuld i do ?
Strange - did you try the boot release on the keyfob ?
Yes i tried
Thank you soo much for your videos, you really helped me out
Hello, it happens to me that when I press the button on the gate, it unlocks but remains stuck and in order to open it, I must press the button on the gate, plus the button on the electronic key
Strange - sounds like a faulty switch but its just a make / break switch so it seems to work if you press the button - what if you press the door button twice ? is it the 2nd "pulse" that is opening it ?
@@L663 oops! I just realized that the gate button doesn't actually work and I can only open the gate by pressing the gate button at the same time as the key button. If I only press the button on the key, the gate unlocks but remains latched.
I have the exactly same issue. I used to be able to unlock the tailgate with the second pulse on the key fob then just press the button on the tailgate. However that no longer works for some reason and I can only unlock and open now by pressing the third ‘LandRover’ button on the key fob plus pressing the button on the tailgate at the same time. If I only just press the button on the key fob it only partly unlocks the lifting section of the tailgate and the button on the tailgate won’t work. I wonder if it is a programming issue on the key fob or is it a precursor event that the actuator is shortly going to fail…?!
Genius guys Well done, thanks, one question, what's your background, Mechanic, bodyshop, engineer?
Hi - my background is a degree in mechanical engineering and a career in manufacturing companies - Sony / IBM etc but now I just love playing on cars and designing new parts for cars etc.
@@L663 greatly appreciate
Well done lads 🚙🚘🚗👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Hi
I cannot open the upper tailgate of my land rover discovery 3 2006.I have crawled into the back and removed carpet and trim from lower tailgate to access actuator to discover that the cable has broken or come away from the lower tailgate lock/striker.Now that cable is disconnected How is it possible to open upper tailgate.
Thanks
Shane
Pull on the cable and it should release but only if still connected at the top
Thanks for the video - heated up the plastic trim to reduce the risk of breaking and successfully released the upper tailgate as described. My actuator does fire though (altho intermittently I believe) so I'm wondering if the lock in the lower tailgate is the culprit - anyone advise on how to determine whether its functioning properly or needs replacing along with the actuator?
9 times out of 10 its the actuator.... let us know how you get on
@@L663 yep, you were right: my lock seems okay. Thanks. Hey I had a nice surprise …having freed the lower carpet section, opened the upper tailgate (from the inside) and then unscrewing the side bolts and stays I DIDNT have to remove the upper plastic cover from the top of the lower tailgate, the carpet section just prized off (which provided all the access I needed to switch out the actuator). It slide back in pretty easily on reassembly. Thanks again guys. Empowering to diy. 😆
Has anyone tried using the UMO replacement actuator? It's about half the price of the OEM.
Is this similar to a Range Rover Sport???
Thank you for the video 🙏
Did you try this yet ? did it work ?
There is a much simpler way, I'm self taught Land Rover mechanic from Namibia
Does it involve an axe ?
please share how
please share
please share how
Very helpful
Great vid 👍👍🇬🇧
thanks
helpful information
Thanks
Great video
Nice video!
Denzil have you got a bot to comment for you ? you are faster than a rat up a drainpipe !
@@L663 I'm a simple man... I see powerful uk upload, I click!
Bravo....
Carl - he speaks the truth !
Think I would just break a window
Of course you can get out the doors - the thing we were trying to do was open the tailgate to change the central locking actuator
Keep the tailgate and change the vehicle. Land Rover, seriously?!
Just another reason why these cars are absolute junk and poorly made.
Did you like your own comment ?
Yippee ki a
Thanks guys, this worked for me on my LR3. Complete jobs took 1.5hr
Thanks for these videos guy's.
Our pleasure!