That was fun watching this video. I like your approach to doing what makes you happy. The generations before us hoarded these treasures and didn't have the fun that we are having. We look at the hobby much differently. To us, it's more about fitting our needs to get the most enjoyment out of it. Even if it means updating older technology and modifying things. The postwar era collectability era is gone, which gives younger enthusiasts an affordable opportunity to get started in the hobby. 5 dollar O27 cars. Do I need to say more. lol. I'll probably get flack for these statements in the comments, but oh well.
You won't get any flack from me sir, I agree with you 100%. There's few post-wars bringing the money they were several years ago ( there's always some exceptions) so nowadays post-wars (and MPC and LTI era products) are great entry-level points to the O Gauge hobby. And not being top dollar collectables now you can do anything you want to them. I've been doing some custom paint jobs on my less than perfect post-war steamers and really loving the results. (Well I hate the way one came out but I'll deal with it later. Like Mike Holmes says I'll take it down to the studs and start over!)
Another agreement. The postwar stuff is affordable, new stuff not. If the old postwar craps out or is a bit shabby then nothing you do to keep it going is gonna hurt. Your point of $5 rail car in 027 is just the market price I shop in. Spending twenty or thirty dollars is more in the engine that needs some attention but otherwise a good buy. I just purchased a 1666 that needs about 12 dollars in parts to reestablish as good looking and running for $40 shipped.
@@genemanno1533 Another nice thing about the post-wars is if the E-unit craps out you can always wire the motor direct to the pick-up and ground and run forward only, the way electric trains were run before E-units were invented. One of my engines is running that way now. I'll replace the E-unit eventually but since I almost never back a train I'm in no rush.
Another reason why I buy stuff that isn’t the prettiest and in best condition. If it’s already messed up, then it hurts less to modify it. Who knows if anyone would ever want my trains when I’m done with them, so I’m just going to enjoy myself 😊
@@dagryffynhobby Most all my trains are modified from as little as added weight, repaint to total rework adding a second magnatraction motor. In fact I’ve added magnatraction drive to front trucks and rear drive truck engines. Magnets help keep both trucks on dummy’s from derailing. Keep them on tracks at higher speeds too. Wiring a motor direct using a double throw switch allow for multi engines hooked up and still be able to reverse with no “E” unit. Added feature can turn off engine and leave it on the tracks while you run another engine.
I know that directional lights can be done on the conventional mechanical revers units with the normal incandescent bulbs, but not with the LED. Now I assume your LED had a voltage dropping resistor somewhere and a diode as well since the LED requires DC current and a voltage of about 1-4 volts depending on the design. Now if you had a electronic reversing unit with DC motors having directional lighting only requires a diode on one of the wires to each bulb and then wire it to the DC motors, depending on the direction of the diode the light will light or not light. I just tested it and it works very nice with incandescent lights on my test. Nice and open real project. Nice to see the reality of these projects.
This was a fun tutorial Dave! Both units are running very smoothly together. I found that if you use a 12v square battery on the horn for 2 seconds, it will help wake the horn up. It has to be 2 seconds exactly or you’ll end up damaging it for good. But afterwards it will be fictional again once it’s wire up to the engine again.🚂
Thanks! Yeah I’ve destroyed a horn or two hitting them with track power to wake them up. Not the best choice I guess! I could get the horn to sound just not through the relay. I’ll fiddle more with it another time
@@dagryffynhobby cool! I don’t usually like to work on them right away either. I also meant to say a 9v battery. My memory has been a little wonky lately. Don’t know why.
Everybody else’s opinion matters, just not that much. I rework my engines all the time. If it does what you wanted it to do, then, you’ve been successful!
Hey Dave, if you come up with a better tethered system be sure to pass it on. I'm fine with just locking out the E units for one direction operation only when double heading powered units for continuous running in one direction. It's not likely I'll be using reverse in those situations anyway. I have ran as many as three powered units together without any problems. They have all been AC pullmor motors. I have ran several can motered engines together like this but have concerns about damaging them or their boards. I don't have those same concerns when running the AC motors with non electronic E units together. It's not like the dual motored AC engines connected to the same E unit run precisely at the same exact speed anyway like those that suggest one must do to double head them. I've seen a guy who tethered what I believe was at least an ABA 2343 with a custom dual motored B unit he built from scratch out of the frames from the rear sections of two powered A uints to provide for the use of powered truck sections. He fused these together in convincing fassion so as to fit the B unit shell with powered trucks. . He had 6 motors ,24 wheeled drive with at least 4 to 6 horns working simultaneously. It sounded pretty cool with that many horns working at once with different pitches. I don't recall how he interconnected the engines together or what he used to power the DC horns. It was very well done although pretty wild it ran and sounded very well eventhough he destroyed two postwar frames to do it. So drilling a couple little holes in a B unit frame is hardly sacrilegious. I'll be passing on your video of hot gluing the LED lights in place. The laddy I buy my LEDs from had a conniption fit when I told her I hot glue mine in place. She only recommendeds using the clear painters caulk or her special wax. Apparently according to her, hot glue isn't something one should use to secure LEDs. Obviously she didn't realize she was in the presence of a McGiverish individual or that I couldn't afford a couple of extra LEDs. Have you ever experienced any failures to any of the LEDs you've installed with hot glue? I find using the 5mm LEDs to be a good size for a direct replacement of the lenses on most engines. I remove the lense and install the LED directly in the opening and use the painter's clear caulk to hold it in place or sand and press fit in place. Light sanding the lens will not harm it. It will actually help disperse it in more directions. LEDs by their very nature is a single concentrated point of light. Do you recall the 1st use of the red LED Pointers? That's why they made good pointers. Hence SMLEDs. Surface mounted LEDs disperse light radially and are better suited to use in structures and passenger cars for better overall uniform light spread without hot spots.
Great tutorial Dave. The 2243's are great engines in their own right. They do look good with the 2500 series cars, which they do match with the black trucks. The 2383's also had the black trucks. Most likely a cost cutting move by Lionel. As I say, it is my railroad and I can run it the way I want! I do say, the longer passenger train is quite impressive.
That was a really fine job, Dave. Looks very nice leading passenger consist. Very smooth running. Quite a great tutorial on what looks to be a rather complex restoration.
I thought about doing something similar to my Sharknose ABA unit, but the idea of having an external tether triggers my OCD, do I chose to install a sound card in the B unit instead. Still, this is a great instructional video, Dave! Full of good onfo for the hobbiest.
Thanks! With clean track it would probably do better! I’ve been impressed with just the one engine in the past. They do pull six or seven 2500 cars, which is not an easy thing to do
Dave, wouldn't it be a lot easier to just add a Williams Electronic Control Board and move the other Motorized truck to the first A Unit. Then you could of used the twin motor A-Unit to haul around both the Dummy A & B units. As a bonus, then the Williams control board could have directionlized your head lamp also. But your approach was interesting, but I think much more difficult.
That would certainly be an option. But if I moved both motors to one unit, it really wouldn’t be any different than a 2343. I liked the idea and challenge of the project and using the old technology to do it. Hey, there’s no wrong way to play
Not jumping ahead in your video, my first thought is why not fix the E-Unit and then lock the E-Units on each diesel so they are pulling in unison? Do you know if there's a downside to using Superglue Gel as opposed to hot glue?
I dislike having to lock e-units to get two going the same direction. I’d rather they operate so I can reverse the train if needed. Also I bought the second A specifically to use it like this. But yeah, just locking the e-units would be easier!
Nice work Dave! And if the LED flickers a bit going in reverse so what? How often are you going to back it up anyway? Were I you at this point I'd start looking for some more aluminum passenger cars for a REALLY impressive long consist! 🤩
I really won’t back it up much, but that’s not really the point! It doesn’t matter if I use it or not, I just want it to work. I have another coach and vista but they are just too heavy all together to pull reliably.
I’m no electrical wiz, but I think it’s the fact that the device I have hooked up takes the ac and converts it to dc. Without that, it all works the way I want it to. The capacitor only keeps the bulb lit momentarily
Model airplane "Deans Connectors" udind 2 4 pin connector aileron extension cables female half on lead unit, complete cable on B unit and male plug on trailing A unit
That was fun watching this video. I like your approach to doing what makes you happy. The generations before us hoarded these treasures and didn't have the fun that we are having. We look at the hobby much differently. To us, it's more about fitting our needs to get the most enjoyment out of it. Even if it means updating older technology and modifying things. The postwar era collectability era is gone, which gives younger enthusiasts an affordable opportunity to get started in the hobby. 5 dollar O27 cars. Do I need to say more. lol. I'll probably get flack for these statements in the comments, but oh well.
You won't get any flack from me sir, I agree with you 100%. There's few post-wars bringing the money they were several years ago ( there's always some exceptions) so nowadays post-wars (and MPC and LTI era products) are great entry-level points to the O Gauge hobby. And not being top dollar collectables now you can do anything you want to them. I've been doing some custom paint jobs on my less than perfect post-war steamers and really loving the results.
(Well I hate the way one came out but I'll deal with it later. Like Mike Holmes says I'll take it down to the studs and start over!)
Another agreement. The postwar stuff is affordable, new stuff not. If the old postwar craps out or is a bit shabby then nothing you do to keep it going is gonna hurt. Your point of $5 rail car in 027 is just the market price I shop in. Spending twenty or thirty dollars is more in the engine that needs some attention but otherwise a good buy. I just purchased a 1666 that needs about 12 dollars in parts to reestablish as good looking and running for $40 shipped.
@@genemanno1533 Another nice thing about the post-wars is if the E-unit craps out you can always wire the motor direct to the pick-up and ground and run forward only, the way electric trains were run before E-units were invented.
One of my engines is running that way now. I'll replace the E-unit eventually but since I almost never back a train I'm in no rush.
Another reason why I buy stuff that isn’t the prettiest and in best condition. If it’s already messed up, then it hurts less to modify it. Who knows if anyone would ever want my trains when I’m done with them, so I’m just going to enjoy myself 😊
@@dagryffynhobby Most all my trains are modified from as little as added weight, repaint to total rework adding a second magnatraction motor. In fact I’ve added magnatraction drive to front trucks and rear drive truck engines. Magnets help keep both trucks on dummy’s from derailing. Keep them on tracks at higher speeds too. Wiring a motor direct using a double throw switch allow for multi engines hooked up and still be able to reverse with no “E” unit. Added feature can turn off engine and leave it on the tracks while you run another engine.
I know that directional lights can be done on the conventional mechanical revers units with the normal incandescent bulbs, but not with the LED. Now I assume your LED had a voltage dropping resistor somewhere and a diode as well since the LED requires DC current and a voltage of about 1-4 volts depending on the design. Now if you had a electronic reversing unit with DC motors having directional lighting only requires a diode on one of the wires to each bulb and then wire it to the DC motors, depending on the direction of the diode the light will light or not light. I just tested it and it works very nice with incandescent lights on my test. Nice and open real project. Nice to see the reality of these projects.
This was a fun tutorial Dave! Both units are running very smoothly together. I found that if you use a 12v square battery on the horn for 2 seconds, it will help wake the horn up. It has to be 2 seconds exactly or you’ll end up damaging it for good. But afterwards it will be fictional again once it’s wire up to the engine again.🚂
Thanks! Yeah I’ve destroyed a horn or two hitting them with track power to wake them up. Not the best choice I guess! I could get the horn to sound just not through the relay. I’ll fiddle more with it another time
@@dagryffynhobby cool! I don’t usually like to work on them right away either. I also meant to say a 9v battery. My memory has been a little wonky lately. Don’t know why.
Great job Dave! I personally love the black side frames and vertical motors!
Thanks. I’ve been impressed with the engine and pulled long trains with it.
Excellent job Dave, I would just run them permanently ABA because they're impressive looking. Passenger cars look great behind them.
Thanks! I’d wire them permanently but I don’t know how I’d pick them up to move them to the shelf!
@@dagryffynhobby yeah, they're definitely not n scale light.
Dave, you are so genuine and reasonable. Just have fun making it do what you want. Keep on Trainin'!
Thanks! I just do what I like. It’s a bonus when others enjoy it too.
Magnificent, looks so good pulling passenger cars
Thank you!
Man that stuff is over my pay grade. Great video. 👍
Mine too! Haha
Awsome as always Dave !
Thank you!
Everybody else’s opinion matters, just not that much. I rework my engines all the time. If it does what you wanted it to do, then, you’ve been successful!
Thanks! I agree, why not change things around to make yourself happy.
Great Video Dave Because I have some postwar F Units.
Cool, thanks
Hey Dave, if you come up with a better tethered system be sure to pass it on. I'm fine with just locking out the E units for one direction operation only when double heading powered units for continuous running in one direction. It's not likely I'll be using reverse in those situations anyway. I have ran as many as three powered units together without any problems. They have all been AC pullmor motors. I have ran several can motered engines together like this but have concerns about damaging them or their boards. I don't have those same concerns when running the AC motors with non electronic E units together. It's not like the dual motored AC engines connected to the same E unit run precisely at the same exact speed anyway like those that suggest one must do to double head them. I've seen a guy who tethered what I believe was at least an ABA 2343 with a custom dual motored B unit he built from scratch out of the frames from the rear sections of two powered A uints to provide for the use of powered truck sections. He fused these together in convincing fassion so as to fit the B unit shell with powered trucks. . He had 6 motors ,24 wheeled drive with at least 4 to 6 horns working simultaneously. It sounded pretty cool with that many horns working at once with different pitches. I don't recall how he interconnected the engines together or what he used to power the DC horns. It was very well done although pretty wild it ran and sounded very well eventhough he destroyed two postwar frames to do it. So drilling a couple little holes in a B unit frame is hardly sacrilegious. I'll be passing on your video of hot gluing the LED lights in place. The laddy I buy my LEDs from had a conniption fit when I told her I hot glue mine in place. She only recommendeds using the clear painters caulk or her special wax. Apparently according to her, hot glue isn't something one should use to secure LEDs. Obviously she didn't realize she was in the presence of a McGiverish individual or that I couldn't afford a couple of extra LEDs. Have you ever experienced any failures to any of the LEDs you've installed with hot glue? I find using the 5mm LEDs to be a good size for a direct replacement of the lenses on most engines. I remove the lense and install the LED directly in the opening and use the painter's clear caulk to hold it in place or sand and press fit in place. Light sanding the lens will not harm it. It will actually help disperse it in more directions. LEDs by their very nature is a single concentrated point of light. Do you recall the 1st use of the red LED Pointers? That's why they made good pointers. Hence SMLEDs. Surface mounted LEDs disperse light radially and are better suited to use in structures and passenger cars for better overall uniform light spread without hot spots.
Great tutorial Dave. The 2243's are great engines in their own right. They do look good with the 2500 series cars, which they do match with the black trucks. The 2383's also had the black trucks. Most likely a cost cutting move by Lionel. As I say, it is my railroad and I can run it the way I want! I do say, the longer passenger train is quite impressive.
Thank you! This is the sort of tinkering that just makes me happy.
That was a really fine job, Dave. Looks very nice leading passenger consist. Very smooth running. Quite a great tutorial on what looks to be a rather complex restoration.
Thanks! Like most things, it’s not as complex as it seems. Essentially it’s wired just like a 2343, except with a lot more wire between the motors!
I like all your videos, let’s just this one is great anyway 👍 which it actually is !
Thanks! Glad you like them!
Amazing 😊
Thanks 😄
Adventures with Dave
😊
I thought about doing something similar to my Sharknose ABA unit, but the idea of having an external tether triggers my OCD, do I chose to install a sound card in the B unit instead. Still, this is a great instructional video, Dave! Full of good onfo for the hobbiest.
Thanks! Yeah the external tether irks me as well. One day I’ll find a really good and really small connector that will work well and not be obvious.
Runs very smoothly Dave, I wonder how many cars the ABA can pull? I really enjoyed this video!😊
Thanks! With clean track it would probably do better! I’ve been impressed with just the one engine in the past. They do pull six or seven 2500 cars, which is not an easy thing to do
Dave, wouldn't it be a lot easier to just add a Williams Electronic Control Board and move the other Motorized truck to the first A Unit. Then you could of used the twin motor A-Unit to haul around both the Dummy A & B units. As a bonus, then the Williams control board could have directionlized your head lamp also. But your approach was interesting, but I think much more difficult.
That would certainly be an option. But if I moved both motors to one unit, it really wouldn’t be any different than a 2343. I liked the idea and challenge of the project and using the old technology to do it. Hey, there’s no wrong way to play
Not jumping ahead in your video, my first thought is why not fix the E-Unit and then lock the E-Units on each diesel so they are pulling in unison? Do you know if there's a downside to using Superglue Gel as opposed to hot glue?
I dislike having to lock e-units to get two going the same direction. I’d rather they operate so I can reverse the train if needed. Also I bought the second A specifically to use it like this. But yeah, just locking the e-units would be easier!
Nice work Dave! And if the LED flickers a bit going in reverse so what? How often are you going to back it up anyway? Were I you at this point I'd start looking for some more aluminum passenger cars for a REALLY impressive long consist! 🤩
I really won’t back it up much, but that’s not really the point! It doesn’t matter if I use it or not, I just want it to work.
I have another coach and vista but they are just too heavy all together to pull reliably.
@@dagryffynhobby OOOOH, you know what THAT means? A powered B unit is needed! 😉
Nice job, Dave. I don't think that you'll be able to use that e-unit in a steamer. The lever orientation is down, steamers require up levers.
Don't worry, he's got plenty o' diesels he can install it in should the need arise.
@@wayneantoniazzi2706
Of that I am quite sure!!!
I would wire both motors to one eunit
That’s what I did.
Could it be the capacitor is keeping the led lit once the direction is switched?
I’m no electrical wiz, but I think it’s the fact that the device I have hooked up takes the ac and converts it to dc. Without that, it all works the way I want it to.
The capacitor only keeps the bulb lit momentarily
Model airplane "Deans Connectors" udind 2 4 pin connector aileron extension cables female half on lead unit, complete cable on B unit and male plug on trailing A unit
I think those have been recommended to me in the past, I should really check them out. Thanks