It's not just caused from temp alone!, it can be caused by having your travel speed too slow for non printed moves which allows the nozzle to ooze filament because it's going too slow!!! when it shouldn't be printing anything, the faster it moves to it's next location for printing the less chance it has to ooze filament!, if you don't believe me try it for yourself with your temp tower!!!!.........
Thank you so much for pointing it out that tuning should begin from temperature and then retraction. I had severe stringing when printing small parts at regular PETG temp (235) and retraction (5 mm). I decreased temp to 215 and retraction to just 2 mm and it was IT! Part printed beautifully but a bit weak, too little layer welding. I increased temp to 220 and retraction to 2.5 mm. Now it's perfect! No coasting, no wipe, no extra prime. Ender 3 with 1.9 mm ptfe. Thank you :)
thanks, however the criticism on this video is valid, however I learn from my mistakes, and I will be posting in the future a better video about this, and fix things I didn't do well here. thanks for your support my friend 😊
This issue is different for every role of filament I have owned. Because the melting point of different sources of the same plastic varies widely. You can print with any of them but the need to change slicer settings for each role can be really tedious.
I wonder if more heat will be better layer strength as it can melt into itself more. I'm currently printing at 203C for PLA and getting some stringing.
Haven't had issues with layers not being strong enough. But this MAY be a problem if you were to use a different filliment than mine. You can always print up a few sticks in different temps and test the strength 😉
@@kalmanf I haven't broken anything yet but layer adhesion in general is a lot weaker than I'd prefer for parts than need to take a lot of force like a clasp or hook. I've learned that just printing them in the right orientation so the layers are not taking the force is all that I needed! There are some good examples of testing I found recently where you can see a wide variation in strength depending on a bunch of settings like seen here where some layers let go with as little as 12lbs of force. I'm just trying to push it to the hottest I can so the pla melts into itself more ensuring I dont get random weak parts when its a part that needs to be strong. ua-cam.com/video/fbSQvJJjw2Q/v-deo.html
Yes I understood that. But like you said rotating a print is a great way to make it stronger (depending on the model). P.S. Don't put CNC Kitchen on my channel. LOL JK, that guy makes great content you can learn from!
Have you conducted this test for ABS? I just got a new printer (I've been only doing resin up to this point) and its stringing a bit, but since its an X1E I'll be printing primarily out of ABS.
stringing test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2450004 temperature test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028352 Also added to the description! Thanks for letting me know!
my advice not to retract before wipe just leave it 0% to wipe and retract directly not to make the seams notisable and less stringing too. and thank you very much for these information it really worked very well I really appreciate your hard work.❤
I read that putting the retraction more then 1.0 (you did 2.0) can cause problems later when filament moves into the 'cool area' and clogs it up. Do you find this to be true?
No, to answer your question. I have noticed a problem at 3 though. Maybe I don't have problems because of my printer model.. Thanks for your input though, you are awesome for watching the whole video 😊
Cute dog! There's a few more variables at play here, i've rarely seen stringing that bad at those higher temps such as 200-230, especially with your lumpy stringing, perhaps there was a flow rate problem at the time ? Thanks for sharing.
Yes i know, i also helped a friend build his creality printer with a bowden extruder. I think its a good change for creality, however i didnt care much for the filament sensor..
@@kalmanf It's obviously a kick, even if you try to downplay it. Even if it didn't cause any damage, it's the attitude about it, like good job tuff guy, you pwned a tiny dog....
If you're not going to use octoprint save your time by putting sd card in computer then export to sd card. No need to make extra files. I hope these settings get rid of retraction thanks!
Export the GCode, Save it, Replace the file, Pull out the SD Card, Put it in the Computer, Drag the file into the SD Card, Replace the Destination, Pull out the SD Card, Put it back into the Printer, ....and Print. Yes, seriously. I can't afford a Prusa MK4 yet, but when I can... my MK3 is going in the garbage... or maybe printing the files that I print a lot and never make changes to. I hate this process of 3D Printing so much, some days I just don't want to do it and I don't print anything. I can't wait to try this fix when I get home! (and replacing ALL my saved prints with the new setting, replacing each GCode in my SD Card one by one...)
At 2:40 I totally forgot the reason that brought me here. 5 minutes later after repeating the kick again and again... Oh! The stringing, the temperature... yeah... Ok I'll try this settings thanks! 🤣🤣🤣
Faster retraction isn't better. That's a myth. I set my retraction to 1mm and speed to 20mm. No stringing. Done. And I have a cheap printer with direct drive. If you use a Bowden tube, set retraction to 4 or 5 mm and speed to 20mm.
kalmanf yea I think it could help people it's actually easy and makes printing way easier. Also explore the tons of plugins in there too. Octolapse alone needs more videos on setup, I.e using during case mode
Export the G Code Save it Replace the file Pull out the SD Card Put it in the computer Drag the file into the SD card Replace the destination Pull out the SD card Put it back in the printer And print
You are 100% wrong. What causes stringing is the SOFTWARE, nothing else. Cura simply doesn't string. Prusa is terrible. Identical settings, different algorithm.
Yes, it will do that. However for pretty much all my prints its been more than strong enough. Or try to print high temp and get rid of stringing with a blow dryer 😋
I think you mean 170. I don't advise printing so low. if you get stringing on 180 and up then you have moisture problem in you PLA. so, throw your filament into a dehydrator, on 50c for 8 hours. this works for me.
5 years later and still useful!
It's not just caused from temp alone!, it can be caused by having your travel speed too slow for non printed moves which allows the nozzle to ooze filament because it's going too slow!!! when it shouldn't be printing anything, the faster it moves to it's next location for printing the less chance it has to ooze filament!, if you don't believe me try it for yourself with your temp tower!!!!.........
Thank you so much for pointing it out that tuning should begin from temperature and then retraction. I had severe stringing when printing small parts at regular PETG temp (235) and retraction (5 mm). I decreased temp to 215 and retraction to just 2 mm and it was IT! Part printed beautifully but a bit weak, too little layer welding. I increased temp to 220 and retraction to 2.5 mm. Now it's perfect! No coasting, no wipe, no extra prime. Ender 3 with 1.9 mm ptfe. Thank you :)
nice video... but it could be shorter cutting the "process of saving the file"
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but you are an absolute legend, and the way you put this video together is great, and thank you.
thanks, however the criticism on this video is valid, however I learn from my mistakes, and I will be posting in the future a better video about this, and fix things I didn't do well here. thanks for your support my friend 😊
You need Octoprint. :)
It doesn't work for my printer for some reason [ender 3 pro (marlin 2.0)]
Great video, thanks !
Export the G-code, save it, replace the file, pull out the sd card :D
Man, I love it! That's gonna become a great channel
This issue is different for every role of filament I have owned. Because the melting point of different sources of the same plastic varies widely.
You can print with any of them but the need to change slicer settings for each role can be really tedious.
I wonder if more heat will be better layer strength as it can melt into itself more. I'm currently printing at 203C for PLA and getting some stringing.
Haven't had issues with layers not being strong enough. But this MAY be a problem if you were to use a different filliment than mine. You can always print up a few sticks in different temps and test the strength 😉
@@kalmanf I haven't broken anything yet but layer adhesion in general is a lot weaker than I'd prefer for parts than need to take a lot of force like a clasp or hook. I've learned that just printing them in the right orientation so the layers are not taking the force is all that I needed! There are some good examples of testing I found recently where you can see a wide variation in strength depending on a bunch of settings like seen here where some layers let go with as little as 12lbs of force. I'm just trying to push it to the hottest I can so the pla melts into itself more ensuring I dont get random weak parts when its a part that needs to be strong. ua-cam.com/video/fbSQvJJjw2Q/v-deo.html
Yes I understood that. But like you said rotating a print is a great way to make it stronger (depending on the model).
P.S.
Don't put CNC Kitchen on my channel. LOL JK, that guy makes great content you can learn from!
Dry filament is also a good factor.
Im trying to print the temp tower, but prusaslicer keeps overring the temperatures with the filament temps? What am I missing?
I like how my printer defaults with the settings you recommended and it strings like hell.
Might be wet filament. If I lower the temps like in the video my nozzle instantly clogs...
Have you conducted this test for ABS? I just got a new printer (I've been only doing resin up to this point) and its stringing a bit, but since its an X1E I'll be printing primarily out of ABS.
but will the lower temp printing make the 3D printed parts weaker?
and faster the better for retraction speeds is not true either
that part where you kicked the dog really confused me as i thought you actually did
When i want to print something and i put it on 180° but it automatically set it to 200
Thank you so much for this tutorial! It is really helpful!
Worked perfectly for my HATCHBOX PLA filaments, along with the right temperature, stringing now is nearly non-existent, thanks!
Hi good video, could you share the link for the tower and rods , thanks a lot.
stringing test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2450004
temperature test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028352
Also added to the description! Thanks for letting me know!
Thank you so much for this help, best result I've get from A LOT of testing.
Now I need a video "How to Fix Blobs on a 3D Printer" 😅
my advice not to retract before wipe just leave it 0% to wipe and retract directly not to make the seams notisable and less stringing too. and thank you very much for these information it really worked very well I really appreciate your hard work.❤
I read that putting the retraction more then 1.0 (you did 2.0) can cause problems later when filament moves into the 'cool area' and clogs it up. Do you find this to be true?
No, to answer your question. I have noticed a problem at 3 though. Maybe I don't have problems because of my printer model.. Thanks for your input though, you are awesome for watching the whole video 😊
@@kalmanf Yeah no worries :). I am using the Mk3S, which printer were you using? It looked like the same printer but wasn't sure.
Mk3, basically you have a fancier hotend then mine 😉 my wife always tells me she doesn't like my hotend 😋
This was an absolutely immense help! Thank you! Stringing is completely gone!
Cute dog! There's a few more variables at play here, i've rarely seen stringing that bad at those higher temps such as 200-230, especially with your lumpy stringing, perhaps there was a flow rate problem at the time ? Thanks for sharing.
Cheers now I really know how to move an sd card from computer to printer and back. Cause that was the information I wanted from this video.
Is this a direct drive of a bowden set up?
Its a Prusa mk3, yes its a direct drive bowden.
@@kalmanf i'm using a creality cr6 se with a bowden setup and still working out the settings to get rid of the stringing.
Yes i know, i also helped a friend build his creality printer with a bowden extruder. I think its a good change for creality, however i didnt care much for the filament sensor..
Very nice explanation, with the same Settings my print is a dream. thanks very much.
Playing with temp is the easiest thing ive done. No hassle for extra tuning
I am printing with a 1 mm nozzle. It helps a lot if I dial the temperature a lot back
Don't kick your dog and you get much more likes, good content. Very cute the end too
I didn't really kick him. Anyhow, I would never kick him on camera.. I'm not dumb, only off camera.
@@kalmanf we know.. but it didn't fit well lol
Lol, I always feel like I have to defend myself 😂
@@kalmanf It's obviously a kick, even if you try to downplay it. Even if it didn't cause any damage, it's the attitude about it, like good job tuff guy, you pwned a tiny dog....
Going to give your settings a go, because I have been experiencing stringing on my recent prints. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks a lof for your video, I just get a prusa, and your parameters works perfect
Happy to hear this! Happy printing!
That is a very informant video. Thanks for making this youtube video and for the 3D files you're AWESOME !!
Are those Uggs??
If you're not going to use octoprint save your time by putting sd card in computer then export to sd card. No need to make extra files. I hope these settings get rid of retraction thanks!
Don't worry, I will use octoprint and make a video about it! Just got my first Rasbarry Pi 👌😊❤️
Dont kick the dog.
LOL! its effects!
@@kalmanf :D
@@newbsdiy3087 it was clearly a cat dressed as a dog
It's kind of fucked up to see you treat your dog like that. It only hurts you in trying to build your channel/brand....
@@tr0798 oof
My PLA does not melt at 185!
Export the GCode,
Save it,
Replace the file,
Pull out the SD Card,
Put it in the Computer,
Drag the file into the SD Card,
Replace the Destination,
Pull out the SD Card,
Put it back into the Printer,
....and Print.
Yes, seriously. I can't afford a Prusa MK4 yet, but when I can... my MK3 is going in the garbage... or maybe printing the files that I print a lot and never make changes to.
I hate this process of 3D Printing so much, some days I just don't want to do it and I don't print anything.
I can't wait to try this fix when I get home! (and replacing ALL my saved prints with the new setting, replacing each GCode in my SD Card one by one...)
I think it’s cause your using bezek WiFi it ruins everything
At 2:40 I totally forgot the reason that brought me here. 5 minutes later after repeating the kick again and again... Oh! The stringing, the temperature... yeah... Ok I'll try this settings thanks! 🤣🤣🤣
I kicked a teddy bear, and coverd it with the dogs picture. SPFX are the best!
YOU ARE A GODSEND!
Try octoprint so you don’t need to use sd card. Good video. Thanks
Happy to hear your feedback! I might do a video on this in the future. Sounds like a great idea!
basic - swith of fan and buy correct filament. i never have any strigs
Loose belts also causes stringing
פתאום ראיתי בזק חחח יש לי prusa mk3s+ מנסה כרגע להבין למה יש כל מיני חצ'קונים על הדברים שאני מדפיסה
Awesome video thanks man
Faster retraction isn't better. That's a myth. I set my retraction to 1mm and speed to 20mm. No stringing. Done.
And I have a cheap printer with direct drive. If you use a Bowden tube, set retraction to 4 or 5 mm and speed to 20mm.
Thank you Christopher Walken
Thank you for the explanation!
Great video. Very helpful and informative.
Thanks ❤️
Made all the difference, thank you!
I agree its temperature. Nice video
Your retraction speed is too high. Your slicer can't perform it correctly thats why it is red.
Pthanks bro you help me no stringing nice
old ass video but it still worked with prusa slicer 2.3.3 :) shoutouts to you
Yup, the saving and moving file process is just as annoying in video as in real life.
please get a pi and use octoprint, it'll change your life. Also more doge
Lol, i got the Pi, i just never set it up.. Should i make a video setting it up or nah, just do it?
kalmanf yea I think it could help people it's actually easy and makes printing way easier. Also explore the tons of plugins in there too. Octolapse alone needs more videos on setup, I.e using during case mode
Export the G Code
Save it
Replace the file
Pull out the SD Card
Put it in the computer
Drag the file into the SD card
Replace the destination
Pull out the SD card
Put it back in the printer
And print
that was so funny when you "kicked the dog" I was laughing so hard
Special effects 😉
Wok your dog! Don't kick it! lol
Call the Dog Protection Unit... he kicked his cute doggy!
I thought i had stringing but i just set it to the wrong printer😂
Why dont you just save the file directly to the sd card then you can save a step lol
Settings at 7:00
#8:15
You are 100% wrong.
What causes stringing is the SOFTWARE, nothing else. Cura simply doesn't string. Prusa is terrible. Identical settings, different algorithm.
But low temperature makes your layers de-laminate more easily.
Yes, it will do that. However for pretty much all my prints its been more than strong enough.
Or try to print high temp and get rid of stringing with a blow dryer 😋
process of saving the file
was
necessary to see how he kicks his dog :)
For some reason the dog sounds like a cat when he gets kicked 🐈🐕
haha the annoying walk to get that damn SD card - I need to upgrade mine with wifi!!
the steps bit was funny the first time... then immediately annoying
I had to put it down to 70 but it worked!
I think you mean 170. I don't advise printing so low. if you get stringing on 180 and up then you have moisture problem in you PLA. so, throw your filament into a dehydrator, on 50c for 8 hours. this works for me.
@@kalmanf sorry I responded so late, thank you but I dont have a dehydrator. Is there anything else I can do with my ender 3?
I gave you thumbs up for the effort , but the part with exporting the g code and writing on the sd card is anoying ...don't do it
I like that noob joke haha
Pretty useful video but I need to say that the "How to save a file" parts were not needed.
Ture but i thought it was funny
thanks
we know how to move files, wtf
Nice
i had a HUGE crak when he Kick the RAT xD
Why kick the little dog
nice video
Nice of you to say that, thanks 😊
Seriously u need octopi lol ~~
nice video btw
2020 pandemic should give me a long time to get that done.. Stay safe and healthy!
Jesus.... fucking.... christ....
💕👍
Why is your dog just licking your hands at the end of the video why are you making those noises
Chihuahuas are weird.
Allah usadek
I was Like 69. lol
Dirty, dirty, dirty. But I like it!
Nice
Weird af way to end a video
Stupid joke kicking an animal.... even if it´s a fake, no need for that.
Signaled him pls.
We go at Police next week for "Bad tretance on Animal"