Looks very tempting. With several new gravel suspension forks on the market recently, I'd love to see a head-to-head comparison of the Lauf, the Lefty, and the Rudy!
Really like the look of this, had a proper look when I was in Iceland recently and had the chance to visit Lauf and am pretty sure this is the bike for me.
I was also lucky enough to ride the Seigla for our Trans Cambrian Way relay challenge ➡️ ua-cam.com/video/fv0CW77fZCg/v-deo.html It was a seriously impressive bike for the route, incredibly composed when it got rough, yet responsive and nimble on the climbs and on road sections. Thanks for watching! - Felix
Just took delivery of Seigla rigid. Just about perfect out of the box! Their build team is very good (I worked in shops for years). I was worried I would regret not upgrading to the shock fork but no regret for the groomed roads I ride with the 45mm tires. Floats down the road. Only negatives I can report: slight flaw in clear coat under the top tube on an otherwise beautiful paint job. I may be able to wet sand it to perfection. No opportunity to upgrade to suspension fork after purchase unless you pay full price. No swapping stem length from Lauf. No regrets on purchase, though.
You should do a super-slow motion shot of the fork on gravel next time. That gives people who've never tried the Lauf the best understanding of what it actually does, even though you describe it well.
I don't doubt the Seigla is more plush to ride than the True Grit, thanks to the clearance increase from 40mm to 2.2" tyres. Switching from my 40mm gravel tyres to 2.2" tyres is transformative on any gravel bike with that much clearance. Which begs the question, is the leaf fork less relevant for the Seigla than for the True Grit? I would be curious for you to compare the Seigla to another Gravel bike with a 2.2" tyres, or even better, do some bumpy descents on the Seigla with both the leaf fork and the rigid fork and compare the results.
I have almost 5K miles on my True Grit and I really enjoy the bike. Coming from a road background the Grit fork has increased my downhill confidence immensely. I do agree that the rear compliance doesn’t match up to the front but am thinking of adding a Canyon/Ergon Leaf spring post to help with this as the next upgrade. I sized up to Maxxis Rambler 45’s and now Specialized Rhombus 42’s and have provided a good balance on road and off road. I have ridden Gravel Fondo’s as well as some light single track and the bike just works. Where I ride in the hilly Pacific NW of the US I really appreciate the mullet build with a 10-50 Eagle cassette. Based on the review this bike just improves on all of the points I mentioned. The switching back to a standard 12mm front axle rather than the 15mm is a big change that I will wish I had when it comes time for a wheel upgrade or using a bike travel case. Looking forward to the full review.
Hey Joe, I run the Canyon VCLS 2.0 post on my True Grit - it definitely helps with a bit of comfort, so would recommend. I currently run 40c Bonty GR2 tyres in mine but am about to swap in some 45c Ramblers, now that the ground here in the UK is less muddy! With the Seigla, I do just wish XPLR could take the 10-50 cassette, while the range is good with XPLR there are times when I ride in the 50t.
Hi Joe can I use this bike with a smart trainer especially a wahoo climber on the front wheel with that fork I don't know if it works and lauf don't answer to my request about.
Love the fact it's "race oriented" but also think Lauf are missing a trick. As you rightly pointed out, these high-end "Adventure" style bikes need the ability to carry loads, have mudguard mounts to ride the Winter bunch, and like any 29'r have a Mullet gearing set-up. Bit like a Bombtrack Hook.
could you do something on the forks and different rider weight please? Grab a weight vest and see how they work at 100kg if that's within their operational limit.
Looks promising. Glad to see they switched to a 12mm axle at the front. I hope that's also the case for the rigid fork, not just the suspension fork. I had the previous Lauf on my shortlist a couple of years ago but ultimately decided against it because I was planning to upgrade the wheelset and did not want to deal with the 15mm front axle. If pricing is indeed similar to the True Grit, this looks like an enticing option.
A lot of bike reviewers sing the praises of carbon bikes but never seem to hold onto any one bike beyond the time it takes to test ride and review it, or if they buy the bike themselves, only hang onto it for a short time, like 6 months to a year. So I would like to know about carbon's longevity. Say I want to plop down a few grand for a carbon bike with the intention of keeping it for 5 or 10 years. Is it a good idea?
So is this honestly a better bike than the true grit. Besides the tire clearance? I'm wanting to race this year and the trie grit is a little lighter but do you need more than 45c?
So they no longer have the holes to add a front derailleur? I thought one of the benefits of the true grit was that option (wireless) was still there if you needed it. Still looks like a great bike overall and I'm looking forward to your in depth review to see if it's an overall improvement over the true grit.
You're right - there's no front mech compatibility. This is what they say; "Its absence brings the presence of approximately 5mm extra tire clearance. Using space that would otherwise be reserved for an inner chainring, even though you’re riding a 1x configuration. As we strongly prefer 1x on our bikes for its simplicity, light weight and robustness, this “tradeoff” was an obvious choice to make." Full review will come!
I've not ridden it with a rigid fork, though I've ridden the Grit extensively. My opinion is that it's no hinderence on road or smooth tracks - it doesn't really bounce about, but those times when a bit of suspension would be useful, it's there. That said, I'm sure there's a place for the rigid fork (though it seems only a minority of their customers choose one)
So many bikes, so little money. Given where I live a 1x is extremely limiting so probably a pass but too bad this looks great 👍 otherwise though I hate round-tubed bars I prefer something a little more ovalized or flattened for hand comfort .
Depends on the terrain, but on mixed gravel, with non-chunky off-road sections and tarmac, then yeah, I'd say the gravel bike is faster*. Of course, fire a gravel bike down a normal MTB track and the gravel bike won't cope as well, but likewise - you don't see hybrids contesting the tour de france for a reason..! * gravel isn't one specific thing, though - there are racey gravel bikes with 32c tyres and monster-truck gravel bikes with tall, slack geo and MTB tyres. They're pretty diverse, and some will do some things better than others!
My stable consists of a Diverge comp carbon and a Chisel comp. Yes, the gravel bike is faster on road and smooth offroad sections, and is less capable when the terrain gets steeper and more technical. Both gaps narrow to a degree when I use my diverge with 27,5x2.1 tyres, but they don’t disappear. That is mainly due to the differences in geometry and suspension.
They are expensive but cost less than most other carbon gravel bikes out there. I have been contemplating one myself. But, as you said, it is still a lot of money.
@@justingrout8037 my gravel bike is aluminum and I've had it for about 6 years. It is still great. I'm also glad I have an aluminum frame every time I hear a rock hit the downtube really hard.
You should be able to fit a hub with combined planetary and derailleur gears on them, then you don't need a 2 by. Only problem being the planetary gear power loss.
1. who needs suspension when you can run huge tires? 2. does the suspension lock-out? I don't like to bob up and down while standing and climbing. 3. Good luck riding in mud with that clearance.
Bikes will come standard with 40/45c rubber, which roll faster on smoother trails - up to you how its run, but I agree if you are going to run 29x2.2 the fork is /less/ useful (though not redundant). Nope, no lockout on the suspension though I personally don't find it bobs much, nor is a huge issue - with bigger tyres, as mentioned in the review, there's a bit more of a disconnect between the bars and tyre contact point, which some might not like (it can be specc'd with a rigid fork, though). Mud clearance is much better than the True Grit and quite a few other gravel bikes, if you're running a 'traditional' gravel tyre, and is still pretty good even with 2.2 rubber in there - I don't think many people will run it with such wide rubber - I think the best compromise is a 50c tyre - this is how my test bike will be set up, so I'll put in the full review any issues with clearance 👌
Been there, done that. From flatbar on my xc full, xc ht, gravel flatbar.... now gravel with dropbar... for long rides is dropbar crucial... even if you camp hoods. On longer rides (5++hours..) u need to change hand positions ,also on hoods its more comfortable for hand than on flatbars....
@@intox43 I respectfully disagree. I have never missed drop bars when bike travelling. Changing hand positions never has been an issue on a flat bar yet.
What do you think of Lauf’s newest gravel munching machine? Also, let us know how jealous you are of Tom's trip by commenting below! 👇
One of the comments in the video in regards of sizing - did I understand it correctly that the Medium size felt too large for a rider at 182cm?
Looks very tempting. With several new gravel suspension forks on the market recently, I'd love to see a head-to-head comparison of the Lauf, the Lefty, and the Rudy!
Great vid. Think it would be the perfect winter/spring bike here in Vermont.
Really like the look of this, had a proper look when I was in Iceland recently and had the chance to visit Lauf and am pretty sure this is the bike for me.
I was also lucky enough to ride the Seigla for our Trans Cambrian Way relay challenge ➡️ ua-cam.com/video/fv0CW77fZCg/v-deo.html
It was a seriously impressive bike for the route, incredibly composed when it got rough, yet responsive and nimble on the climbs and on road sections. Thanks for watching! - Felix
This bike looks like an absolute blast.
Just took delivery of Seigla rigid. Just about perfect out of the box! Their build team is very good (I worked in shops for years). I was worried I would regret not upgrading to the shock fork but no regret for the groomed roads I ride with the 45mm tires. Floats down the road. Only negatives I can report: slight flaw in clear coat under the top tube on an otherwise beautiful paint job. I may be able to wet sand it to perfection. No opportunity to upgrade to suspension fork after purchase unless you pay full price. No swapping stem length from Lauf. No regrets on purchase, though.
You should do a super-slow motion shot of the fork on gravel next time. That gives people who've never tried the Lauf the best understanding of what it actually does, even though you describe it well.
Sadly I had GoPro issues - it was on my shot-list!
Lauf official youtube channel alraady has a slowmo video of their fork in action
I don't doubt the Seigla is more plush to ride than the True Grit, thanks to the clearance increase from 40mm to 2.2" tyres. Switching from my 40mm gravel tyres to 2.2" tyres is transformative on any gravel bike with that much clearance. Which begs the question, is the leaf fork less relevant for the Seigla than for the True Grit?
I would be curious for you to compare the Seigla to another Gravel bike with a 2.2" tyres, or even better, do some bumpy descents on the Seigla with both the leaf fork and the rigid fork and compare the results.
I have almost 5K miles on my True Grit and I really enjoy the bike. Coming from a road background the Grit fork has increased my downhill confidence immensely. I do agree that the rear compliance doesn’t match up to the front but am thinking of adding a Canyon/Ergon Leaf spring post to help with this as the next upgrade. I sized up to Maxxis Rambler 45’s and now Specialized Rhombus 42’s and have provided a good balance on road and off road. I have ridden Gravel Fondo’s as well as some light single track and the bike just works. Where I ride in the hilly Pacific NW of the US I really appreciate the mullet build with a 10-50 Eagle cassette. Based on the review this bike just improves on all of the points I mentioned. The switching back to a standard 12mm front axle rather than the 15mm is a big change that I will wish I had when it comes time for a wheel upgrade or using a bike travel case. Looking forward to the full review.
Hey Joe, I run the Canyon VCLS 2.0 post on my True Grit - it definitely helps with a bit of comfort, so would recommend. I currently run 40c Bonty GR2 tyres in mine but am about to swap in some 45c Ramblers, now that the ground here in the UK is less muddy! With the Seigla, I do just wish XPLR could take the 10-50 cassette, while the range is good with XPLR there are times when I ride in the 50t.
Don't forget the XPLR AXS dropper seatpost also has a compliance mode (20mm travel) when it's not at full-extension, if I recall.
Hi Joe can I use this bike with a smart trainer especially a wahoo climber on the front wheel with that fork I don't know if it works and lauf don't answer to my request about.
Yes! (Head-to-head review)
I'm wondering if the ability to run 50+ mm tires makes the rigid option more attractive for those of us looking to avoid any hint of pedal bob?
Love the fact it's "race oriented" but also think Lauf are missing a trick. As you rightly pointed out, these high-end "Adventure" style bikes need the ability to carry loads, have mudguard mounts to ride the Winter bunch, and like any 29'r have a Mullet gearing set-up. Bit like a Bombtrack Hook.
Looking good. Hope you can compared it to Speciaized Comp Carbon, which is in about the same price range.
Did you ever do a full review of this bike (as promised in the video?). If so, please link as I haven't been able to find it. Cheers.
We didn't make a video review but we have a written review www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/gravel-bikes/lauf-seigla-review
We are in the Cambrian explosion of bike evolution, and the Seigla is part of that. Amazing bike.
I own the new seigla, wireless race with grit fork. Will post up after i get it tuned, fitted and some good long rides.
How do you like the result? Are you used to the compliant front with (mostly noncompliant) rear?
Pls hurry!! I surely want to see video on "that"
could you do something on the forks and different rider weight please? Grab a weight vest and see how they work at 100kg if that's within their operational limit.
Would it kill them to add rear fender mounts? :\
What is the brand of the rear mudguard?
I wondered that, too...
Looks promising. Glad to see they switched to a 12mm axle at the front. I hope that's also the case for the rigid fork, not just the suspension fork. I had the previous Lauf on my shortlist a couple of years ago but ultimately decided against it because I was planning to upgrade the wheelset and did not want to deal with the 15mm front axle. If pricing is indeed similar to the True Grit, this looks like an enticing option.
Pricing is now on BikeRadar's news story - www.bikeradar.com/news/lauf-seigla/
What is the maximum size tires can use?
A lot of bike reviewers sing the praises of carbon bikes but never seem to hold onto any one bike beyond the time it takes to test ride and review it, or if they buy the bike themselves, only hang onto it for a short time, like 6 months to a year. So I would like to know about carbon's longevity. Say I want to plop down a few grand for a carbon bike with the intention of keeping it for 5 or 10 years. Is it a good idea?
So is this honestly a better bike than the true grit. Besides the tire clearance? I'm wanting to race this year and the trie grit is a little lighter but do you need more than 45c?
So they no longer have the holes to add a front derailleur? I thought one of the benefits of the true grit was that option (wireless) was still there if you needed it. Still looks like a great bike overall and I'm looking forward to your in depth review to see if it's an overall improvement over the true grit.
You're right - there's no front mech compatibility. This is what they say;
"Its absence brings the presence of approximately 5mm extra tire clearance. Using space that would otherwise be reserved for an inner chainring, even though you’re riding a 1x configuration. As we strongly prefer 1x on our bikes for its simplicity, light weight and robustness, this “tradeoff” was an obvious choice to make."
Full review will come!
More importantly no bottle opener
Anyone out there currently riding s Seigla and can give sizing feedback? Please say how tall you are and what size you’re riding.
what is the fender youre running on true grit?
Excellent
I think I’m in love 🥰
What size frameset for 1,82 Cm???
Can you comment on your view of the rigid vs grit sl fork if you are hoping to use for smooth single track.
I've not ridden it with a rigid fork, though I've ridden the Grit extensively. My opinion is that it's no hinderence on road or smooth tracks - it doesn't really bounce about, but those times when a bit of suspension would be useful, it's there. That said, I'm sure there's a place for the rigid fork (though it seems only a minority of their customers choose one)
whats the jacket in 10:17?
Take that suspension design and add it to the back wheel as well. 😀
Broooo !!!! Yessss!!!!
Is it a threaded BB?
Yes
So many bikes, so little money. Given where I live a 1x is extremely limiting so probably a pass but too bad this looks great 👍 otherwise though I hate round-tubed bars I prefer something a little more ovalized or flattened for hand comfort .
To those that have ridden both; is a gravel bike noticeably faster than an XC hardtail MTB?
Depends on the terrain, but on mixed gravel, with non-chunky off-road sections and tarmac, then yeah, I'd say the gravel bike is faster*. Of course, fire a gravel bike down a normal MTB track and the gravel bike won't cope as well, but likewise - you don't see hybrids contesting the tour de france for a reason..!
* gravel isn't one specific thing, though - there are racey gravel bikes with 32c tyres and monster-truck gravel bikes with tall, slack geo and MTB tyres. They're pretty diverse, and some will do some things better than others!
Yes, top end speed is much higher on a gravel bike. The aerodynamic difference is very noticeable.
My stable consists of a Diverge comp carbon and a Chisel comp. Yes, the gravel bike is faster on road and smooth offroad sections, and is less capable when the terrain gets steeper and more technical. Both gaps narrow to a degree when I use my diverge with 27,5x2.1 tyres, but they don’t disappear. That is mainly due to the differences in geometry and suspension.
Did anyone else think he was naked for a second? No, just me then.
These look very nice.. how do find sizing I’m usually a 54 on most bikes but according to there site I would be a small
Which Sigla did you review ?
I saw that there are several models.
Thank you
Wish they weren’t so damn expensive 😩
They are expensive but cost less than most other carbon gravel bikes out there. I have been contemplating one myself. But, as you said, it is still a lot of money.
@@DaveCM true, been riding and upgrading the same aluminum gravel bike since 2017 and been very happy
@@justingrout8037 my gravel bike is aluminum and I've had it for about 6 years. It is still great. I'm also glad I have an aluminum frame every time I hear a rock hit the downtube really hard.
Someone will find something they don’t like about it, that’s how people are but IMO … Welcome to perfection, ladies & gentleman.
Should have made it 2X. 1X is ok for MTBs but when on the road where most of the time is spent you need 2X.
2x is simply not possible with that tire size.
2x is simply not possible with that tire clearance.
You should be able to fit a hub with combined planetary and derailleur gears on them, then you don't need a 2 by. Only problem being the planetary gear power loss.
You can always make this bike 2x if you go with a Powershift rear hub.
@@user-yv2cz8oj1k Agreed - but then someone would complain that it is way overpriced, and that you are locked into one brand of rear hubs ;)
That's a very nice mountain bike, just needs some flat bars. 🤣
"Testing" in Iceland.. no hills or climbs in sight or filmed.. hmmm..
1. who needs suspension when you can run huge tires? 2. does the suspension lock-out? I don't like to bob up and down while standing and climbing. 3. Good luck riding in mud with that clearance.
Bikes will come standard with 40/45c rubber, which roll faster on smoother trails - up to you how its run, but I agree if you are going to run 29x2.2 the fork is /less/ useful (though not redundant).
Nope, no lockout on the suspension though I personally don't find it bobs much, nor is a huge issue - with bigger tyres, as mentioned in the review, there's a bit more of a disconnect between the bars and tyre contact point, which some might not like (it can be specc'd with a rigid fork, though).
Mud clearance is much better than the True Grit and quite a few other gravel bikes, if you're running a 'traditional' gravel tyre, and is still pretty good even with 2.2 rubber in there - I don't think many people will run it with such wide rubber - I think the best compromise is a 50c tyre - this is how my test bike will be set up, so I'll put in the full review any issues with clearance 👌
@@TomMarvin1 can you explain the phrase "there's a bit more of a disconnect between the bars and tyre contact point"? What is this mean?
first
Here's another 1,000,000 BikeRadar gold stars! Don't use them all at once 😁 ⭐️
@@bikeradar 'another'? oh someone is keeping track😊
@@savagepro9060 All our gold stars are accounted for 😇
1X only?!, what a huge error.
To all the people buying a drop bar bike and always riding with the hands on the hoods: buy a flat bar!!!!1!!1!!1!!!
Been there, done that. From flatbar on my xc full, xc ht, gravel flatbar.... now gravel with dropbar... for long rides is dropbar crucial... even if you camp hoods. On longer rides (5++hours..) u need to change hand positions ,also on hoods its more comfortable for hand than on flatbars....
@@intox43 I respectfully disagree. I have never missed drop bars when bike travelling. Changing hand positions never has been an issue on a flat bar yet.
If it helps, I use the tops, extensions, hoods and drops quite a bit - but it's hard to go-pro with your hands on the drops :-)
Why buy a flat bar when there is a flat part to put your hands on a dropbar?
spot on :-)