My parents’ house was built in 1953 with original hardwood floors. But it’s got carpet right now. I plan to rip it out and fix up the wooden floor. Thank you for this. ☺️😊
I really enjoyed this, no annoying music, no message from a sponsor etc. My (rented) homes floorboards are in a very bad shape and the gaps are filled with dusk, crumps and (dead) insects, guess one should clean them all before filling?
Hi. Thanks for your comment! I would try and vacuum/wipe up what you can first, but I wouldn't personally be worried about something under the floorboards or something that will be totally hidden (unless it was damp or active woodworm). Best of luck!
The proper way to show that videos made of a stream of pictures can be enough and even pleasing. Thank you for the effort of recording your steps and putting it online for everyone interested. Great job also, it looks a lot better!
Thanks for the comment and best of luck with your floor. I took some recent footage of this floor, 5 years on, and need to make a short follow-up video. I did some touching up where the tenant had dragged furniture, and painted over with a dedicated floor varnish paint (clear gloss) for protection like I should have originally, but I am still impressed with how well the filling stayed in place and looks.
This has got me all excited about possibly doing this myself! Glad people take time to post helpful videos like this. ( probably won't do it myself given it a further 30seconds thought.)
Hi friend, can u give me advice on my floor? Did your floor also bend when walking on it? Do I need to nail it every 6 inch to stop it bend or just don't nail it (leave it as it is) then sand it+put on 3 coats of polyurethane? Pls advice. Thanks. ua-cam.com/video/KBzFkDPibUQ/v-deo.html
Lovely job, I too stumbled on the same oak wood filler from screwfix. It’s brilliant. I took my carpet up a few years ago on my landing. I should have filled it then, instead I sanded it and sealed it. Your right about the loss of heat and draft. No problem now I’ve done it. I like your idea about the gaps under the skirting, mine Is a bit uneven. Will be doing mine with caulk. Thank you for sharing 👍
good work Jeremy! Achievable result for the average skilled home owner. I'm particularly impressed with using the cheap gloop to first plug the cavities. Would suggest get a decent outdoor/flexible product, a good one doesn't cost much more. Also, very interested in how things are looking after a year.
Just the video I was looking for! Our floors look exactly like this, we live in an old cottage…. I will be following your advise! Thank you and great job!
We had our floors professionally (I say that loosely) done and within a week there were bits coming off from in-between the floor boards.. the staining was extremely badly done. I'm going to attempt to redo the floors as you have shown, it just makes sense. Thank you for the video and for the explanation of the steps.
You're welcome, best of luck with it. I still intend to make a follow up video with footage I took a year ago (4 years after I did the floors), but haven't gotten around to it yet. I hope the Screwfix No Nonsense product is still as good. Regards, Jeremy.
I recommend using Ronseal Diamond Hard floor varnish. No, I'm not being paid to write that. I'm a hotelier, I've done loads of floors, the cheaper stuff wears through in no time. Cheaper stuff is OK around the edges where nobody treads, but the higher-traffic areas need the dearer stuff.
BEAUTIFUL, I love it and the information. I live in an old house, the wood is not as wide; however, I found this EXTREMELY helpful!!!!!! Thank you!!!!!!
Sweet! Thanks for the video. I’ll be applying some peel and stick vinyl planks but first need to fill in the gaps and fixed the loose wood that was under my carpets. Thanks you!
This will most likely not work in longer time, I made the same mistake. Filling will not stick to wood, because you didn't remove dirt, and in result when wood shrinks in winter the seal will simply break as it does not hold to anything solid. You need to use plunge saw or router to clean the crevice and then use some strong and elastic glue like Sika FC11. Regular stuff like "wood filler" is just garbage.
People underestimate just how effective air sealing is when concerning heating and cooling efficiency. Air sealing is 99% of the time far cheaper and far more impactful to building/maintaining an energy efficient home. Just make sure if you get things too tight (which is a good thing) that you keep the air changes per hour at an acceptable level for health and comfort reasons. That have special units for this that can bring in HEPA filtered air. Keeping the home with a constant filtered/conditioned air source from outside will keep the home in a positive pressure, which means instead of sucking in dirt at every gap in your home for its entire life, air instead will be pushing out words. You have no idea how much cleaner this will Keep your home and cut down on the time you need to spend cleaning. It’s a whole new world that few people are aware of.
Stupendous - my heaven - wonderful job. I have an old cedar plank floor - made the mistake of trying to fill gaps with aluminum foil and then concrete - terrible. Now I am looking at a suggestion of various sizes of ropes vs. an admixture of cedar sawdust with white glue. I have used this outside in a test in winter and it seems to be holding up remarkably well. I have trouble with the rubbery compounds on the market - somehow they don't fill the bill for me. In closing your UA-cam has been exceptionally inspirational. Thanks.
Haha many years ago I used kitchen roll and grout 😂 And that was on a rented house! I was so silly. Now I just got my first home and I’m watching this to do it right! Glad there’s another me out there winging it somewhere haha!!
Many many years ago there was some forestry infected with wood worms and when they cut the trees down they found this out , But they used the wood anyway instead of discarding it as wast your floor may have been a part of that part of history……sometimes you see it in antique furniture
Great video. Not the slickest out there but awesome. Interesting, real and with good ideas and solutions to a slightly tricky problem. My floorboards in this old house we just bought are pine and are in quite bad condition. We've just sanded the floors down, trying not to lose too much of the wood like a hire company might. This has recalled a nice wood but the cracks are wide and previous central heating workers have butchered the wood with cuts, lazy nail application and mismatching wood ages and styles. all we need to do now is apply your methods and away we go.
+Paul Hicks Glad you've found it of some use. I know some people use a sawdust and glue mixture to fill gaps, but some of my gaps were huge with a void underneath. I think one thing I would change in hindsight is to use a better quality varnish designed specifically for floors, but you live and learn. Hope it all goes well for you.
Two months is not enough to assess this. Wood board shrink during the winter season and expand during the summer... I'm curious to see an update on this after 2 years.
This was in a rental property and I have only just seen it again two years later, so here's the update. I took some photos but not sure how I would be able to post them here. Anyway, I can report that in the main the floor is as I left it. A few lines about 40cm long in one area had started to crack and needed topping up with the sealant (maybe I rushed that area or maybe it experienced more movement than other areas), but otherwise fine or very minimal cracking. The varnish had been scraped away by furniture in a few places, but I'd already said here that I would recommend using proper floor varnish. I've also already said that speed and cost were key factors in this job rather than achieving the best possible finish, but nevertheless I am pleased with how it came out and how it has lasted in a rental property. Best wishes.
@@JeremyKnight9 I used some of the methods on here to do a floor & it worked great, if you were going to sand the floor would you sand it prior to filling gaps etc or afterwards? Thanks
@@CMB_Vinyl Hi, pleased to hear you found the video useful. If you were using a filler like I did, I would say to do any sanding before filling as sanding after could disturb and possibly ruin the filling, but after you've finished adding noggins or tightening down boards. A good quality floor varnish will also help smooth the floor a little. Best of luck with your floor.
Your better off using a gel substance like waterproof bathroom sealant on the underside of the skirting , just incase of constant and continuous vibration wear and tear.
Thank you for your video, when you applied the color, I noticed you did not sand the floor. So it's not necessary to sand the floor before you add the wood color?
Hi! No I didn't, just a modest clean to remove as much dust & dirt as possible. I'm sure a light sand wouldn't have hurt, and may be necessary if your boards have been painted more recently and require a key, but I didn't feel it necessary with my boards. Modern day paint is pretty incredible with what you can get away with - I do agree that preparation is important, but it also depends on time/cost/importance too. I was simply looking for an improvement in as little a time possible, so meticulously sanding every board or hiring a professional sander was not something I wanted to do, personally. Good luck! J
Where is the insulation under the floor? It looks like a cheap way to do it but I would have torn it up and put insulation in. The insulation would have paid for itself in heating bills.
Aaaaaaargh! Eine Kleine Nachtmusic. I had to listen to it before every daily German lesson in my college language lab for two years. Good video, however, having text - with sound off. Thanks.
Great video, I am half way through restoring a solid pine board floor in our family home. A beautiful Victorian property from 1856! I have however fully sanded using a belt sander from screwfix. Its taken a while and a lot of cursing but its getting there! I noticed your fireplace, it looks like a Victorian cast iron bedroom arch insert. In the room I am currently renovating (we are working our way through the whole house!), I romeved a sheet of Asbestos board with an electric fire in that had been fitted to coever the fireplace. Absolutley gorgeous victorian Hob Grate style ornate fireplace behind! who knew :) You used the same wood sealant (no nonsense) that Im about to today so its good to know that it works effectivley. Also, LONG LIVE WILKO!! theres one a minute walk from my house. DIY on a budget = Wilko :) Sam x
Glad you liked the video Sam, be careful with that Asbestos! Wilko is usually pretty good - as I said to someone else, I would recommend using a dedicated floor varnish instead of the standard wood varnish I used. Much more expensive but sounds like you're after a top finish. As an aside, I painted the (unused) fireplaces and hearths with Wilko matt black wood & metal paint and they came up great, though I can't see it on their website. Good luck with the rest of your project!
Interested in knowing how your wood floor has held up since doing the repairs. We are in the process of purchasing a home from 1820 and need to save our money for exterior repairs, but the floor boards are original and look EXACTLY like the ones in this video. This looks a lot easier to do than I thought it would be. I've done my own projects previously and feel comfortable doing something like this, but always hesitate in fear of ruining the original floorboards.
Thanks for your comment. I haven't personally ever used grey wood stain, but looking on Google it seems that you should be successful, provided that the paint is quite thick or you use two or three coats. Best of luck.
Is there a general rule on how much sandpaper will i be going through. I need to restore 480 square feet of pine floorboards that have been painted and have developed a curve and need to be leveled probably with a 16 grit sandpaper. How much sandpaper would i need to get for each of the sanding steps? I was thinking i would go though grits 16,36,60,80
Hi, sorry but I have no idea, I did not sand this floor because I wanted to get the job done quickly. Good luck with your floor. You should take photos and make a video!
Man k am sooooo screwed my floors are ten times worse that yours and I gotta do the work myself and buy tools and I CANNOT LIFT THE BOARDS AT ALL BC IN just an old disabled lady and I willl CRY looking under there seeing the dead bugs live bugs mice whagever elese is infested under there BUT I GOTTA GET THIS DONE BEFORE THE SPRING FUK….. I need help help sooo much help & can’t afford it
Hey there. Thanks for the step-by-step. Did you sand the floor to start? It looks like you didn't, that you started with a finished floor. I have an old floor of pine boards that I would rather not sand. Let me know! Thanks
sorry, only just read this. did you sand your floor in the end? I didn't sand it because I could see the wood would take the varnish without it, I wanted to complete the job quickly, and the boards weren't good enough to warrant a full restoration. By time you have your furniture and a rug or two you can't even see that much anyway!
Hi, the sealant I used and seen in the video, from what I recall, stayed pliant for about 15-30 minutes before starting to lightly cure, and was fully cured 24 hours later, although it remains slighty flexibility which makes it ideal for this situation. Other people here have suggested different types of sealant and methods - I had success with the one I used which is why I shared my experience, but I guess it depends on what you have to work with / finish you're looking for. Best of luck with your project.
Hi, I didn't sand it as I wasn't looking for a perfect / as new result. Plus the varnish hid a lot of the imperfections. Personally if I were to sand a large area of floor, I would probably hire a sander or get someone in as in my experience hand held orbital sanders take ages and can leave ring marks. Good luck with your project.
wondering what the floor filler will look like on floor boards that were laid in 1860 which i am in the process of sanding down and securing, but i dont want to varnish i want to wax the boards......any ideas
You could try mixing the sanding dust and pva to create a thick paste and use that, although I've never tried it myself. Or you could try one of the Ronseal (or equivalent if not in UK) wood fillers which come in a few different shades. Or if the gaps are quite small, could you leave them and just concentrate on any large gaps? Whatever you try, test on a small area first to check you're happy with it. Hope your project goes well!
the gaps vary a little....its a large landing area which has been hidden under carpet for 40 odd years that i know of, and if my memory serves me right lino before that im guessing lino as it was in the bedrooms when we moved in.....I just want that rustic feel, which i think would suit the age of the house. It will be a while before i get to the stage of filling gaps, even with a sander its going to take a wee while..... I will pass the info on to my better half and let him try a mixing a little up and see...thank you
Personally, I'm not sure there are many 'have tos' in DIY. Clearly some professionals would disagree, but then you're no longer talking about the average weekend DIYer. I think for a lot of DIY there is the 'best practice possible' for achieving the best/most durable results obtainable at any cost (be it time/money), but that isn't always within the skills/budget/time frame of a DIYer. Often the most important thing is just to get a job done to avoid further degradation and for it to not cost too much. In this case, my floor didn't appear varnished before I started work on it so I wasn't concerned about new varnish not sticking. And I was even considering leaving it as it was, so as long as it looked better afterwards I was happy. I certainly wasn't going to hire a floor sanding machine or spend two days with an orbital sander. So to answer your question, I would say sanding may well be the optimum for your floor, but whether it's the optimum for you only you can decide. Best of luck with your project!
A quick sand wouldn't have hurt, but the boards here weren't very smooth or shiny so I just went straight in. My aim was to make it better than it was as quickly and cheaply as possible. As with most DIY, if you have the time and inclination to fully prepare the surface then you usually will get a better end result, but it all depends on your priorities. Thanks for watching
The original flooring looked so much better. It had character! Floor boards were laid down with gaps between them to allow air to flow through out the house, also allowing natural movement. You’ve done a good job at making a beautiful floor look like a badly faux wood laminate floor.
I doubt it, as those adhesives tend to be a bit runnier and may shrink too much when dried. But you could always test on a small area or on some scrap wood. Good luck!
You're crazy. Your floor looked awesome before you stained it with teak stain! Bad move. You said you want to hide all the dark parts of the wood, but they looked good. Now it does look dirty.
Best video on here ! I’m off to screw fix for the gap filler 😀
My parents’ house was built in 1953 with original hardwood floors. But it’s got carpet right now. I plan to rip it out and fix up the wooden floor. Thank you for this. ☺️😊
I really enjoyed this, no annoying music, no message from a sponsor etc. My (rented) homes floorboards are in a very bad shape and the gaps are filled with dusk, crumps and (dead) insects, guess one should clean them all before filling?
Hi. Thanks for your comment! I would try and vacuum/wipe up what you can first, but I wouldn't personally be worried about something under the floorboards or something that will be totally hidden (unless it was damp or active woodworm). Best of luck!
The proper way to show that videos made of a stream of pictures can be enough and even pleasing. Thank you for the effort of recording your steps and putting it online for everyone interested.
Great job also, it looks a lot better!
Thanks so much! I need to do this to my floor- I pulled up carpet to discover natural woodwork, beautiful albeit rough.
Thanks for the comment and best of luck with your floor. I took some recent footage of this floor, 5 years on, and need to make a short follow-up video. I did some touching up where the tenant had dragged furniture, and painted over with a dedicated floor varnish paint (clear gloss) for protection like I should have originally, but I am still impressed with how well the filling stayed in place and looks.
This has got me all excited about possibly doing this myself! Glad people take time to post helpful videos like this. ( probably won't do it myself given it a further 30seconds thought.)
Did you do it? 😋
Thank you....again! I watched this last summer and now again as I'm working on another old floor and needed a refresher!
Hi friend, can u give me advice on my floor? Did your floor also bend when walking on it? Do I need to nail it every 6 inch to stop it bend or just don't nail it (leave it as it is) then sand it+put on 3 coats of polyurethane? Pls advice. Thanks. ua-cam.com/video/KBzFkDPibUQ/v-deo.html
Lovely job, I too stumbled on the same oak wood filler from screwfix. It’s brilliant. I took my carpet up a few years ago on my landing. I should have filled it then, instead I sanded it and sealed it. Your right about the loss of heat and draft. No problem now I’ve done it. I like your idea about the gaps under the skirting, mine Is a bit uneven. Will be doing mine with caulk. Thank you for sharing 👍
Use silicon edging. You can buy it with an adhesive backing and it is much easier and looks neater.
good work Jeremy! Achievable result for the average skilled home owner. I'm particularly impressed with using the cheap gloop to first plug the cavities. Would suggest get a decent outdoor/flexible product, a good one doesn't cost much more. Also, very interested in how things are looking after a year.
Just the video I was looking for! Our floors look exactly like this, we live in an old cottage…. I will be following your advise! Thank you and great job!
Amazing video, best I have seen for restoring an old wooden floor yourself. This will guide me for the rest of the week!
What an effective video! Quick, easy to understand and follow. Thanks!
We had our floors professionally (I say that loosely) done and within a week there were bits coming off from in-between the floor boards.. the staining was extremely badly done. I'm going to attempt to redo the floors as you have shown, it just makes sense. Thank you for the video and for the explanation of the steps.
You're welcome, best of luck with it. I still intend to make a follow up video with footage I took a year ago (4 years after I did the floors), but haven't gotten around to it yet. I hope the Screwfix No Nonsense product is still as good. Regards, Jeremy.
Finally some good music 🎶
I’ve just pulled up floors in my new house to reveal Victorian floorboards…thank you for this great help!
Nobody gunna talk about the old used q tips just chilling underneath lol 1:30
This is perfect for my bathroom, thanks for the video!
I recommend using Ronseal Diamond Hard floor varnish. No, I'm not being paid to write that. I'm a hotelier, I've done loads of floors, the cheaper stuff wears through in no time. Cheaper stuff is OK around the edges where nobody treads, but the higher-traffic areas need the dearer stuff.
I put a wood beading round the perimeter of the skirting just to finish it off. You don’t see any gaps that’s been filled.
Thank you for showing all the steps so clearly. Very helpful!
BEAUTIFUL, I love it and the information. I live in an old house, the wood is not as wide; however, I found this EXTREMELY helpful!!!!!! Thank you!!!!!!
This is exactly what I have been looking for, wasn’t quite sure if I needed to fill the gaps but your demonstration has answered that. Great job!
Fabulous. Thank you for Mozart too.
I was wandering how your floor was holding up and how long it's been ? New photos would be nice too. Thanks
Sweet! Thanks for the video. I’ll be applying some peel and stick vinyl planks but first need to fill in the gaps and fixed the loose wood that was under my carpets. Thanks you!
This will most likely not work in longer time, I made the same mistake. Filling will not stick to wood, because you didn't remove dirt, and in result when wood shrinks in winter the seal will simply break as it does not hold to anything solid. You need to use plunge saw or router to clean the crevice and then use some strong and elastic glue like Sika FC11. Regular stuff like "wood filler" is just garbage.
i was very moved by this inspiring and beautifully relayed information thank you ..... kerry
Excellent upload and truly educational. Thank you.
People underestimate just how effective air sealing is when concerning heating and cooling efficiency.
Air sealing is 99% of the time far cheaper and far more impactful to building/maintaining an energy efficient home.
Just make sure if you get things too tight (which is a good thing) that you keep the air changes per hour at an acceptable level for health and comfort reasons. That have special units for this that can bring in HEPA filtered air. Keeping the home with a constant filtered/conditioned air source from outside will keep the home in a positive pressure, which means instead of sucking in dirt at every gap in your home for its entire life, air instead will be pushing out words.
You have no idea how much cleaner this will Keep your home and cut down on the time you need to spend cleaning. It’s a whole new world that few people are aware of.
Thank you for your insightful comment
Great video thank you, and I love the Mozart!
Thanks pal the video was well informative and actually quite a pleasure to watch
Stupendous - my heaven - wonderful job. I have an old cedar plank floor - made the mistake of trying to fill gaps with aluminum foil and then concrete - terrible. Now I am looking at a suggestion of various sizes of ropes vs. an admixture of cedar sawdust with white glue. I have used this outside in a test in winter and it seems to be holding up remarkably well. I have trouble with the rubbery compounds on the market - somehow they don't fill the bill for me. In closing your UA-cam has been exceptionally inspirational. Thanks.
Haha many years ago I used kitchen roll and grout 😂
And that was on a rented house! I was so silly. Now I just got my first home and I’m watching this to do it right! Glad there’s another me out there winging it somewhere haha!!
Excellent choice of music.
Thanks, simple, sweet n easy to watch, followed with action to do. Excelent. Cheers
Thank you so much for the video so helpful ❤
Many many years ago there was some forestry infected with wood worms and when they cut the trees down they found this out ,
But they used the wood anyway instead of discarding it as wast your floor may have been a part of that part of history……sometimes you see it in antique furniture
I use old chop sticks and used matches for filling gaps.
Great video. Not the slickest out there but awesome. Interesting, real and with good ideas and solutions to a slightly tricky problem. My floorboards in this old house we just bought are pine and are in quite bad condition. We've just sanded the floors down, trying not to lose too much of the wood like a hire company might. This has recalled a nice wood but the cracks are wide and previous central heating workers have butchered the wood with cuts, lazy nail application and mismatching wood ages and styles. all we need to do now is apply your methods and away we go.
+Paul Hicks Glad you've found it of some use. I know some people use a sawdust and glue mixture to fill gaps, but some of my gaps were huge with a void underneath. I think one thing I would change in hindsight is to use a better quality varnish designed specifically for floors, but you live and learn. Hope it all goes well for you.
This video was very helpful I’m wanting to restore my Victorian bedroom floor boards and rip up my horrible carpet!
Good luck with it, original floorboards certainly have lots of character
Great video thank you
Two months is not enough to assess this. Wood board shrink during the winter season and expand during the summer... I'm curious to see an update on this after 2 years.
This was in a rental property and I have only just seen it again two years later, so here's the update. I took some photos but not sure how I would be able to post them here. Anyway, I can report that in the main the floor is as I left it. A few lines about 40cm long in one area had started to crack and needed topping up with the sealant (maybe I rushed that area or maybe it experienced more movement than other areas), but otherwise fine or very minimal cracking. The varnish had been scraped away by furniture in a few places, but I'd already said here that I would recommend using proper floor varnish. I've also already said that speed and cost were key factors in this job rather than achieving the best possible finish, but nevertheless I am pleased with how it came out and how it has lasted in a rental property. Best wishes.
@@JeremyKnight9 I used some of the methods on here to do a floor & it worked great, if you were going to sand the floor would you sand it prior to filling gaps etc or afterwards?
Thanks
@@CMB_Vinyl Hi, pleased to hear you found the video useful. If you were using a filler like I did, I would say to do any sanding before filling as sanding after could disturb and possibly ruin the filling, but after you've finished adding noggins or tightening down boards. A good quality floor varnish will also help smooth the floor a little. Best of luck with your floor.
@@CMB_Vinyl before.
Very helpful. Thank you ❤️🇧🇧
Your better off using a gel substance like waterproof bathroom sealant on the underside of the skirting , just incase of constant and continuous vibration wear and tear.
Just what I have been looking for. Thanks!
Preferred it before, myself! Can’t see caulk lasting long.
I will try this. Thanks for posting the video.
Thank you.
You're most welcome :-)
Keep it fresh Jeremy keep it fresh
Thank you for your video, when you applied the color, I noticed you did not sand the floor. So it's not necessary to sand the floor before you add the wood color?
Did you sand the floors before varnishing?
Hi! No I didn't, just a modest clean to remove as much dust & dirt as possible. I'm sure a light sand wouldn't have hurt, and may be necessary if your boards have been painted more recently and require a key, but I didn't feel it necessary with my boards. Modern day paint is pretty incredible with what you can get away with - I do agree that preparation is important, but it also depends on time/cost/importance too. I was simply looking for an improvement in as little a time possible, so meticulously sanding every board or hiring a professional sander was not something I wanted to do, personally. Good luck! J
Great video! I have a floor that looks pretty much the same, and I will do the restoring the way you present it. I like the result. Good job.
the music got me entertained
Isn't there supposed to be a subfloor there?
Thank you so much for this!
Where is the insulation under the floor? It looks like a cheap way to do it but I would have torn it up and put insulation in. The insulation would have paid for itself in heating bills.
Great video! There are not many video for old soft wood. I'm wondering what wood varnish product you were using?
Aaaaaaargh! Eine Kleine Nachtmusic. I had to listen to it before every daily German lesson in my college language lab for two years. Good video, however, having text - with sound off. Thanks.
You wouldn’t recommend slivers?
Brilliant
Great video, I am half way through restoring a solid pine board floor in our family home. A beautiful Victorian property from 1856! I have however fully sanded using a belt sander from screwfix. Its taken a while and a lot of cursing but its getting there! I noticed your fireplace, it looks like a Victorian cast iron bedroom arch insert. In the room I am currently renovating (we are working our way through the whole house!), I romeved a sheet of Asbestos board with an electric fire in that had been fitted to coever the fireplace. Absolutley gorgeous victorian Hob Grate style ornate fireplace behind! who knew :)
You used the same wood sealant (no nonsense) that Im about to today so its good to know that it works effectivley. Also, LONG LIVE WILKO!! theres one a minute walk from my house. DIY on a budget = Wilko :)
Sam x
Glad you liked the video Sam, be careful with that Asbestos! Wilko is usually pretty good - as I said to someone else, I would recommend using a dedicated floor varnish instead of the standard wood varnish I used. Much more expensive but sounds like you're after a top finish. As an aside, I painted the (unused) fireplaces and hearths with Wilko matt black wood & metal paint and they came up great, though I can't see it on their website. Good luck with the rest of your project!
Interested in knowing how your wood floor has held up since doing the repairs. We are in the process of purchasing a home from 1820 and need to save our money for exterior repairs, but the floor boards are original and look EXACTLY like the ones in this video. This looks a lot easier to do than I thought it would be. I've done my own projects previously and feel comfortable doing something like this, but always hesitate in fear of ruining the original floorboards.
you could have replaced the skirting boards as the current ones look really cheap. Which is a shame because the wood flooring is nice.
looks great, great video
hello Jeremy. thanks for the turorial. if my wood floor is brown, can i stain it with gray dark color if i sand the floor ?
Thanks for your comment. I haven't personally ever used grey wood stain, but looking on Google it seems that you should be successful, provided that the paint is quite thick or you use two or three coats. Best of luck.
Really helpful! thanks and kudos for the music.
I am curious as to know if you had sanded the floor at all before applying the finish.
Nice restoration. Hell...I would have stayed just for the music!
Thanks
You're most welcome. Hope it helped.
Good job! Nice music!
Good Video!
Is there a general rule on how much sandpaper will i be going through. I need to restore 480 square feet of pine floorboards that have been painted and have developed a curve and need to be leveled probably with a 16 grit sandpaper. How much sandpaper would i need to get for each of the sanding steps? I was thinking i would go though grits 16,36,60,80
Hi, sorry but I have no idea, I did not sand this floor because I wanted to get the job done quickly. Good luck with your floor. You should take photos and make a video!
Nice job!
You didn’t sand the floor before putting varnish on?! Mistake
Looks damn good!
Man k am sooooo screwed my floors are ten times worse that yours and I gotta do the work myself and buy tools and I CANNOT LIFT THE BOARDS AT ALL BC IN just an old disabled lady and I willl CRY looking under there seeing the dead bugs live bugs mice whagever elese is infested under there BUT I GOTTA GET THIS DONE BEFORE THE SPRING FUK….. I need help help sooo much help & can’t afford it
No sanding before varnish? Very strange method...
What brand teak varnish did you use?
Hey there. Thanks for the step-by-step. Did you sand the floor to start? It looks like you didn't, that you started with a finished floor. I have an old floor of pine boards that I would rather not sand. Let me know!
Thanks
sorry, only just read this. did you sand your floor in the end? I didn't sand it because I could see the wood would take the varnish without it, I wanted to complete the job quickly, and the boards weren't good enough to warrant a full restoration. By time you have your furniture and a rug or two you can't even see that much anyway!
How long did the sealant take to go off? Great video, thank you. Just about to do mine!
Hi, the sealant I used and seen in the video, from what I recall, stayed pliant for about 15-30 minutes before starting to lightly cure, and was fully cured 24 hours later, although it remains slighty flexibility which makes it ideal for this situation. Other people here have suggested different types of sealant and methods - I had success with the one I used which is why I shared my experience, but I guess it depends on what you have to work with / finish you're looking for. Best of luck with your project.
How did you sand it? Hand held orbital sander perhaps? Or did you hire an industrial floor sander?
Hi, I didn't sand it as I wasn't looking for a perfect / as new result. Plus the varnish hid a lot of the imperfections. Personally if I were to sand a large area of floor, I would probably hire a sander or get someone in as in my experience hand held orbital sanders take ages and can leave ring marks. Good luck with your project.
@@JeremyKnight9 Sure and thanks for your reply. Your final result was excellent!
Just wow
This helped immensely.
wondering what the floor filler will look like on floor boards that were laid in 1860 which i am in the process of sanding down and securing, but i dont want to varnish i want to wax the boards......any ideas
You could try mixing the sanding dust and pva to create a thick paste and use that, although I've never tried it myself. Or you could try one of the Ronseal (or equivalent if not in UK) wood fillers which come in a few different shades. Or if the gaps are quite small, could you leave them and just concentrate on any large gaps? Whatever you try, test on a small area first to check you're happy with it. Hope your project goes well!
the gaps vary a little....its a large landing area which has been hidden under carpet for 40 odd years that i know of, and if my memory serves me right lino before that im guessing lino as it was in the bedrooms when we moved in.....I just want that rustic feel, which i think would suit the age of the house. It will be a while before i get to the stage of filling gaps, even with a sander its going to take a wee while..... I will pass the info on to my better half and let him try a mixing a little up and see...thank you
I thought you have to sand it before revarnishing?
Personally, I'm not sure there are many 'have tos' in DIY. Clearly some professionals would disagree, but then you're no longer talking about the average weekend DIYer. I think for a lot of DIY there is the 'best practice possible' for achieving the best/most durable results obtainable at any cost (be it time/money), but that isn't always within the skills/budget/time frame of a DIYer. Often the most important thing is just to get a job done to avoid further degradation and for it to not cost too much. In this case, my floor didn't appear varnished before I started work on it so I wasn't concerned about new varnish not sticking. And I was even considering leaving it as it was, so as long as it looked better afterwards I was happy. I certainly wasn't going to hire a floor sanding machine or spend two days with an orbital sander. So to answer your question, I would say sanding may well be the optimum for your floor, but whether it's the optimum for you only you can decide. Best of luck with your project!
You didn't need to sand before applying a new stain/varnish?
A quick sand wouldn't have hurt, but the boards here weren't very smooth or shiny so I just went straight in. My aim was to make it better than it was as quickly and cheaply as possible. As with most DIY, if you have the time and inclination to fully prepare the surface then you usually will get a better end result, but it all depends on your priorities. Thanks for watching
Lovely
I already varnished my floors a while back, should I sand them down again and then start this or do I even need to varnish it again?
Thanks for the Mozart 'Eine Kleine Natchmusik' instead of some godawful ear damaging rock music.
The original flooring looked so much better. It had character!
Floor boards were laid down with gaps between them to allow air to flow through out the house, also allowing natural movement.
You’ve done a good job at making a beautiful floor look like a badly faux wood laminate floor.
Thanks!
Use pine tar not calk to fill floors ahhhh
Is that wood caulk similar to Liquid Nail?
I doubt it, as those adhesives tend to be a bit runnier and may shrink too much when dried. But you could always test on a small area or on some scrap wood. Good luck!
Bro I hope you cleaned up the 500 Q tips that was under the floor 🤮🤮🤮
abcflooring nj
Splendidly to see Stodoys have new plans which helped me save some money and energy for this construction.
Biggest shit i have ever seen. Cant you sand it and work with Bona or something similar? I have spent 30 hours just sanding the floor.....shit
Enjoy woodprix woodworking instructions.
You're crazy. Your floor looked awesome before you stained it with teak stain! Bad move. You said you want to hide all the dark parts of the wood, but they looked good. Now it does look dirty.
You don't know nothing about restoring wood floor. Sorry but that's true.
What is the solution you used to mix with the sawdust