@sjagain GREAT QUESTION!!!! You can clamp to the aluminum head and the electricity conducts fine into the broken stud. You can also grip the nut to be welded with needle nose vice grips and ground the vice grips.
Thanks for the great video. After watching this I used a similar method to remove a center bolt from a 30 year old Honda mower. I had burred the 14mm bolt head that holds the cutting disc to the drive shaft. This method worked a treat. Thank-you from Australia !
That is feckin ace. A bolt sheered off on my old Suzuki DT8 outboard, tried the usual butchery to get it out, heating with a blow torch, mole grips, cutting a notch for the impact driver, all to no avail. I'm buying a welder. Sean Connery had fallen on hard times. His agent phones one night and says "Sean, I've found a job for you. Be there for tennish in the morning." Sean says "Tennish?? But I haven't got a racket!"
@epiphaknee I learned to weld from a professional welder when I worked for an Engineering firm that crashed cars to generate expert witness evidence. In trade I taught him how to do timing belts and motor swaps. I always like to learn from people who do whatever it is. I've had many teachers that failed to do well and turned to teaching. They were a waste of time! (bless their hearts) As for Loctite- it breaks down with heat and you get to pick your color of stuck.
Awesome Brian! I've got lots of tools, now I need to buy myself a welder. This is the best method I have ever seen as far as removing stock bolts, brilliant man!
Great trick for removing the bolt. I once saw my brother oxidize a bolt that was snapped off below the surface using an acetylene torch. I was totally amazed. The block threads were fully intact. He said it works because the heat doesn't transfer across the threads rapidly enough to damage the threaded hole. I'm off now to return the spark plugs for my 4-runner V-6 thanks to watching your video first. They gave me the single electrode type. Wish you worked in my city. I 'd have a new mechanic.
@ryansauto93 Bad clutch, leaking water pump, and coolant spewing from the intake manifold. I was told to replace the intake manifold gasket. (it was the worst of the three.)
@eallend Likely you can drive the stud out. A torch would be a great idea to preheat it first. It's hard to say without looking at it, but I bet the rust is the only thing holding it in place.
That was neat! The closest I've come to welding was trying to silver solder a radiator leak with some success. I enjoy your videos. Even though I'm getting old, I still try to do some of my own repairs, so your tips and procedures are helpful.
thats awesome im about to do this on my ae71 but one thing i did notice that i thought id mention is the battery is still connected? i have been told to disconnect the batter as it can bugger your alternator?
Dam i never though of this, now im soo looking forward to get a welder. Brian what do you reccomend for bare minimum welding bodywork,exhuast and bolts and stuff. I dont want to spend too little or too much.thx
great video,awesome job,,,i have a broken stainles steel bolt into an aluminum peace on a boat,i have a big lincon welder,can i weld a regular steel nut to the stainless steel bolt ?
Hi Brian, very good video and saved my day with my broken stud on a exhaust flange to manifold. Question to you: what type welding did you use for the process? thanks
Is your Hobart Handy 135 set up with Flux Core welding wire electrode or solid with 75/25 Argon/Carbon Dioxide inert gas? What voltage setting and feed rate did you use? I have similar problem with broken exhaust manifold bolt, a new 110VAC Hobart Handy 140 bought for this purpose and limited welding experience. Nothing like the details to get in the way of success. I'm trying to avoid removing the head from the truck and having to use Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) to remove the broken EZ-out. Why didn't you use Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) or stick Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW)?
@NEVERENDS90 You might consider using a dremel to slot the top and use a flat screw driver to back it out. OF COURSE take precautions to prevent sparks mingling with the fuel vapors.
Pretty dang smart idea. I picked up a 90 dollar flux welder down at Harbor Frieght, maybe it will come in handy one day. Was more of an impulse buy. You're my go to guy on mechanic vids. Going to try and tackle a head gasket on a buddies Toyota soon. Sure I'll run into tons of problems with that one. Which is another reason I've been watching your vids. I dont have a clue what I'm getting in to, lol Happy New Year bro
i have a 93 pathfinder with an exhaust leak, i have the broken off piece which is a short length of thread with a nut on it and then the point where it is broken off is naked, so i'm assuming it's a stud. idk. What would be your best advice on fixing this at home?
Thanks for the tip and the encouragement to get a welder. I have been thinking about getting one for awhile. Can you maybe do a video describing the different types of welds and maybe how to weld. it would be most appreciated. Thanks and cant wait for your next video.
Amen brother! I will usually stop- oil it- send it back in clockwise in and out a few times and or heat it. Seems like the rust powder binds the bolt. If you can suspend it in oil it lubricates and can flow down the threads instead of bunching up and binding.
Great video you just gave me a great idea for what to do next time I have a broken bolt. Thank you very much for uploading this video and keep up the good work
I think the name is Torch Mate or something cheesy like Torch Tote. It's marketed for mobility for plumbing. I used to do mobile auto repair so it was handy and small enough to fit on the truck. You can find set ups like this at any commercial plumbing store or welding shop.
Nice job on getting that bolt out. Excellent video illustration. I have a 2003 Chevy Express with a broken exhaust manifold bolt which is causing that ticking sound. I wonder how much work it will be though. Brian, do you think I'll have to remove the manifold and clean it up behind there? By the way, LOVE your Ron Paul poster!!
Awesome video, man. Great advice! I had quite a few broken bolts on my cars. Fortunately, most of them were on parts that I was scrapping anyways so I let them be. I had one broken bolt on a ground wire on my Subaru van, it turned about 3-4 threads and then snapped. Drilled it out, threaded the hole, put a new one in, problem solved. Moral of the story: never undo rusty bolts when it's really really cold without heating them. No matter how much penetrating oil you use, they will break off.
Good job, Brian. I like this technique a lot, too. It might even work when the bolt is recessed, and I saw a technique using a tig welder for a broken recessed bolt in an aluminum block (weldingtipsandtricks here on youtube). People who show how to do it on youtube recommend a washer to prevent spill of the weld down onto the block. You seemed to have no trouble using a nut with a cap shoulder. Cheers, Dave
@vjanda1 It's hard to say not having seen it. Most likely you can remove the starter and get to it better. If you do a video response I may be able to help you better.
Hi Brian, hope your having a good day. I have to say thank you for making this video. I removed a broken bolt using your method and it worked. It didn't work on the first try but I didn't give up and it worked on the fifth. Thanks man and keep up the good work. Have a great day! Mark
Hello ur videos are full of info,n helps in many ways.I want to change the pluger inside the clutch master cylinder,brakefluid is leakin all over the carpet.Normally it is needed to unbolt the cylinder frm the firewall,to remove the plunger,but i have a big problem which is not allowing me to carry out the work.the master cylinder is fix to studs with rusted nuts which wont move an inch,and this is really annoying,i dont want to break the studs.
Hi, a bolt holding the starter motor on my mercruiser inboard boat engine snapped off. Trouble is it screws in from the bottom upwards. DO you recon it can be welded from the bottom up? Removing the whole engine is very expensive :( thx
but, what do you do when you have a cheap Grade 8 bolt that broke off when I was putting on a tow hitch. I drilled it out the 7/16" with a 1/4" drill and used a screw extractor. The screw extractor broke off inside the bolt. I don't have a welder , what other option would you use? The bolt is flush with the frame and screwed into a nut that was welded on the inside of the frame. Any suggestions? You said you liked a challenge but then again . . . you HATE broken bolts
We used to do this back in the day. FYI, heating helps because the cast iron or aluminum part expands way before the steel fastener. If you can grab the broken bolt or stud with a vise-grip, heating the area will work. If there isn't enough to grab, welding a nut on is the second choice. If it is broken too deep to weld a nut on, drill a hole into the fastener first, then heat it up and use an bolt extractor bit.
Great video! I agree - spend some time in the garage and learn how to make tools pay for themselves! I bought my first welder at a pawn shop and recovered my expense in 1 day! Now, I'm big-doggin it with a Hobart 210 and it's payin for itself as well! Keep postin vids, Bro!
I got on F-150 and I changed out the camshaft sensor on the driver side in about 5 minutes. I've now been working a day and a half on the passenger side because some idiot before me had stripped a nut! I've tried extractors, three different sets to no avail. Even though it's "horizonta"l, I'm going to try and build it out then add a nut. Oh yeah by the way, did I mention it's only an 8 mm and absolutely no room to work.🤮 I HATE BROKEN BOLTS! Thanks for the video brother!
i have a small around 6mm broken nut below the surface on my fuel tank near the pump... i dont think i wanna weld or do anything involving heat because its on top of the fuel tank... any ideas? i really need some help on this... i dont wanna change the whole tank because of this!
A good argument for anyone who does their own repairs to invest in a welder. I've had decent luck die-grinding a slot and using a flat tip or even flat tip in socket with a ratchet. If the fastener stops moving after loosening a bit go back tight and loosen again over and over using pen oil.
Good job! I've broken a bolt head off about flush so that I had nothing to grab on to. From my experience it's sometimes easier to drill and tap out a hole verses drilling a hole and attempting to use a so called Easy Out. I'm restoring a vintage Chevy Truck and rust is my enemy. I bought a torch kit for those rusted bolt heads and nuts on the frame that I have no choice but to melt off the nuts and/or bolt and drive them out with an pneumatic impact hammer.
@sjagain GREAT QUESTION!!!! You can clamp to the aluminum head and the electricity conducts fine into the broken stud. You can also grip the nut to be welded with needle nose vice grips and ground the vice grips.
Thanks for the great video. After watching this I used a similar method to remove a center bolt from a 30 year old Honda mower. I had burred the 14mm bolt head that holds the cutting disc to the drive shaft. This method worked a treat. Thank-you from Australia !
That is feckin ace. A bolt sheered off on my old Suzuki DT8 outboard, tried the usual butchery to get it out, heating with a blow torch, mole grips, cutting a notch for the impact driver, all to no avail. I'm buying a welder. Sean Connery had fallen on hard times. His agent phones one night and says "Sean, I've found a job for you. Be there for tennish in the morning." Sean says "Tennish?? But I haven't got a racket!"
@epiphaknee I learned to weld from a professional welder when I worked for an Engineering firm that crashed cars to generate expert witness evidence. In trade I taught him how to do timing belts and motor swaps. I always like to learn from people who do whatever it is. I've had many teachers that failed to do well and turned to teaching. They were a waste of time! (bless their hearts) As for Loctite- it breaks down with heat and you get to pick your color of stuck.
You are 100% right. The welder method is my first stop for broken bolt extraction. Great video.
Used this tip on some broken 1/4 20's holding my vise jaws. Worked great! thank you for sharing
@CURBECK Will do. Poured a bunch of concrete today. I'm way excited to have it be done!
That's a really smart idea. Weld a nut and then use a ratchet to back it out. Incredible!
Good tips that I will use, thanks. Appreciate you sharing them.
Love the videos Brian! awesome work!
Awesome Brian! I've got lots of tools, now I need to buy myself a welder. This is the best method I have ever seen as far as removing stock bolts, brilliant man!
Great trick for removing the bolt. I once saw my brother oxidize a bolt that was snapped off below the surface using an acetylene torch. I was totally amazed. The block threads were fully intact. He said it works because the heat doesn't transfer across the threads rapidly enough to damage the threaded hole. I'm off now to return the spark plugs for my 4-runner V-6 thanks to watching your video first. They gave me the single electrode type. Wish you worked in my city. I 'd have a new mechanic.
@spelunkerd Ya the cap nut negates the need for a washer.
@ryansauto93 Bad clutch, leaking water pump, and coolant spewing from the intake manifold. I was told to replace the intake manifold gasket. (it was the worst of the three.)
Great work, Brian and thanks for sharing (some) of your life's wisdom once more.
You're welcome- thanks for watching
@eallend Likely you can drive the stud out. A torch would be a great idea to preheat it first. It's hard to say without looking at it, but I bet the rust is the only thing holding it in place.
That was neat! The closest I've come to welding was trying to silver solder a radiator leak with some success. I enjoy your videos. Even though I'm getting old, I still try to do some of my own repairs, so your tips and procedures are helpful.
Im a mechanic in school and i always wondered about the best method of removing stuck bolts thanks for this vid.
great tips brother, keep em comin!
thats awesome im about to do this on my ae71 but one thing i did notice that i thought id mention is the battery is still connected? i have been told to disconnect the batter as it can bugger your alternator?
@powerking73 GREAT QUESTION! Nope. little to no risk. Disconnect it to be safe if you want.
You have great tutorials brother, thanks alot!!! True life saver when it comes to learning about my carbed sport bike!!!!
Dam i never though of this, now im soo looking forward to get a welder. Brian what do you reccomend for bare minimum welding bodywork,exhuast and bolts and stuff. I dont want to spend too little or too much.thx
i wish more young people thought like you this would be a better country! carry on brianmobile1.
@badass98kx250 Was it you that said do it this way?
It's so meaningful and thought inspiring.....
@blackdusterv8 2Late's right. If your surfaces aren't super shiny and clean where the weld goes it won't stick.
great video,awesome job,,,i have a broken stainles steel bolt into an aluminum peace on a boat,i have a big lincon welder,can i weld a regular steel nut to the stainless steel bolt ?
Hi Brian, very good video and saved my day with my broken stud on a exhaust flange to manifold.
Question to you: what type welding did you use for the process? thanks
I sure could have used this video last week; where did you ground the welder?
Great Video man!!!! I have to keep this in mind.
Is your Hobart Handy 135 set up with Flux Core welding wire electrode or solid with 75/25 Argon/Carbon Dioxide inert gas? What voltage setting and feed rate did you use? I have similar problem with broken exhaust manifold bolt, a new 110VAC Hobart Handy 140 bought for this purpose and limited welding experience. Nothing like the details to get in the way of success. I'm trying to avoid removing the head from the truck and having to use Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) to remove the broken EZ-out.
Why didn't you use Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) or stick Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW)?
Very effective solution. Great job.
Hi Brian, What kind of welder did you use?
Done the dremmel impact driver thing on motorcycle bolts. Will have to try this next time. Thanks
Great idea thanks for sharing dude!
great tip. thank you for sharing
@NEVERENDS90 You might consider using a dremel to slot the top and use a flat screw driver to back it out. OF COURSE take precautions to prevent sparks mingling with the fuel vapors.
what specs do you recommend for a welder for stuff like this?
Pretty dang smart idea. I picked up a 90 dollar flux welder down at Harbor Frieght, maybe it will come in handy one day. Was more of an impulse buy. You're my go to guy on mechanic vids. Going to try and tackle a head gasket on a buddies Toyota soon. Sure I'll run into tons of problems with that one. Which is another reason I've been watching your vids. I dont have a clue what I'm getting in to, lol Happy New Year bro
i have a 93 pathfinder with an exhaust leak, i have the broken off piece which is a short length of thread with a nut on it and then the point where it is broken off is naked, so i'm assuming it's a stud. idk. What would be your best advice on fixing this at home?
All this and Ron Paul too? WTG brian!
I have a welder just like that, but mine is the 140. Love using it. Definitely paid for itself.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the tip and the encouragement to get a welder. I have been thinking about getting one for awhile. Can you maybe do a video describing the different types of welds and maybe how to weld. it would be most appreciated.
Thanks and cant wait for your next video.
Amen brother! I will usually stop- oil it- send it back in clockwise in and out a few times and or heat it. Seems like the rust powder binds the bolt. If you can suspend it in oil it lubricates and can flow down the threads instead of bunching up and binding.
Massive thanks for the video bro, had a snapped manifold stud on my CBR and welding a nut on it wound it right out!!!
what amperage and stick did you use ??
@merenge25 It often can work- yes
@rtzapper You're welcome!
can say I´ve learned something new today !
Great video you just gave me a great idea for what to do next time I have a broken bolt. Thank you very much for uploading this video and keep up the good work
I think the name is Torch Mate or something cheesy like Torch Tote. It's marketed for mobility for plumbing. I used to do mobile auto repair so it was handy and small enough to fit on the truck. You can find set ups like this at any commercial plumbing store or welding shop.
HEY! That's a great idea! Thanks!
Will welding on the engine cause any electrical problems with battery, sensors, alternator?
Good luck my friend. Good luck!
Hows that hobart welder compared to the miller 211
Nice job on getting that bolt out. Excellent video illustration. I have a 2003 Chevy Express with a broken exhaust manifold bolt which is causing that ticking sound. I wonder how much work it will be though. Brian, do you think I'll have to remove the manifold and clean it up behind there?
By the way, LOVE your Ron Paul poster!!
That's great! Way to go!
Thx man for this quick reply...will carry the procedures u mentioned above... keep up the good work mate :)
Awesome video, man. Great advice!
I had quite a few broken bolts on my cars. Fortunately, most of them were on parts that I was scrapping anyways so I let them be.
I had one broken bolt on a ground wire on my Subaru van, it turned about 3-4 threads and then snapped. Drilled it out, threaded the hole, put a new one in, problem solved.
Moral of the story: never undo rusty bolts when it's really really cold without heating them. No matter how much penetrating oil you use, they will break off.
how much a welder like that cost,i had a H-F 90 amp flux one but it dont have enough power
this worked on 2 broken f250 exhaust manifold studs in the aluminum head. worked awesome.
@popoqwer You're welcome- good luck!
They make my face feel warm.
Good job, Brian. I like this technique a lot, too. It might even work when the bolt is recessed, and I saw a technique using a tig welder for a broken recessed bolt in an aluminum block (weldingtipsandtricks here on youtube). People who show how to do it on youtube recommend a washer to prevent spill of the weld down onto the block. You seemed to have no trouble using a nut with a cap shoulder. Cheers,
Dave
awesome vid. Once I was trying to weld a nut to the bolt the weld didn't wnat to keep them together ;( whats the problem??
Is that a Hobart Handler 140?
@vjanda1 It's hard to say not having seen it. Most likely you can remove the starter and get to it better. If you do a video response I may be able to help you better.
@1elAguila It's bugger!
Thanks for the great video.
Hi Brian, hope your having a good day. I have to say thank you for making this video. I removed a broken bolt using your method and it worked. It didn't work on the first try but I didn't give up and it worked on the fifth. Thanks man and keep up the good work. Have a great day! Mark
Hello ur videos are full of info,n helps in many ways.I want to change the pluger inside the clutch master cylinder,brakefluid is leakin all over the carpet.Normally it is needed to unbolt the cylinder frm the firewall,to remove the plunger,but i have a big problem which is not allowing me to carry out the work.the master cylinder is fix to studs with rusted nuts which wont move an inch,and this is really annoying,i dont want to break the studs.
hi, so I was wondering, (i'm new to welding) what do you mean by fill the nut with weld? also, how did you weld the nut to the broken bolt? =)
Hi, a bolt holding the starter motor on my mercruiser inboard boat engine snapped off. Trouble is it screws in from the bottom upwards. DO you recon it can be welded from the bottom up? Removing the whole engine is very expensive :(
thx
that is a good trick.. I bought a 300.00 welder and went through 3 rolls of wire in the first week fixing everything that I had been putting off..
Sorry no jokes but loved your way of getting the broken bolts out, so flipping clever.
but, what do you do when you have a cheap Grade 8 bolt that broke off when I was putting on a tow hitch. I drilled it out the 7/16" with a 1/4" drill and used a screw extractor. The screw extractor broke off inside the bolt. I don't have a welder , what other option would you use? The bolt is flush with the frame and screwed into a nut that was welded on the inside of the frame.
Any suggestions? You said you liked a challenge but then again . . . you HATE broken bolts
We used to do this back in the day. FYI, heating helps because the cast iron or aluminum part expands way before the steel fastener. If you can grab the broken bolt or stud with a vise-grip, heating the area will work. If there isn't enough to grab, welding a nut on is the second choice. If it is broken too deep to weld a nut on, drill a hole into the fastener first, then heat it up and use an bolt extractor bit.
@briansmobile1 So I take it you were a Highway Engineer?
well said E5 i sometimes drill through the center, to the root dia, and run a tap trough it , may have to use first and finishing tap.
This tips are great thanks alot
:-)
Great video! I agree - spend some time in the garage and learn how to make tools pay for themselves! I bought my first welder at a pawn shop and recovered my expense in 1 day! Now, I'm big-doggin it with a Hobart 210 and it's payin for itself as well! Keep postin vids, Bro!
What is the technique to build the weld up?
@jfdonnald Thanks and you're welcome. You're a gentleman and a scholar. You're spelling and grammar are extraordinary! I love it!
@MrBigdrew01 You're welcome man!
thanks bro! good info.
I haven't yet. I'm doing a valve job on a Subaru STi that I'm trying to get in and out so I can get a Sequoia in for a motor swap for a friend.
I got on F-150 and I changed out the camshaft sensor on the driver side in about 5 minutes. I've now been working a day and a half on the passenger side because some idiot before me had stripped a nut! I've tried extractors, three different sets to no avail. Even though it's "horizonta"l, I'm going to try and build it out then add a nut. Oh yeah by the way, did I mention it's only an 8 mm and absolutely no room to work.🤮 I HATE BROKEN BOLTS!
Thanks for the video brother!
Yeah i guess hes not a rider, hes a pilot, but still you guys sound so much alike, its actually pretty awesome
If the bolt broke below the level of the hole what would you have done?
BTW: I like your Ron Paul poster.
We the subs should pitch in and get you a tripod for Christmas :)
i have a small around 6mm broken nut below the surface on my fuel tank near the pump... i dont think i wanna weld or do anything involving heat because its on top of the fuel tank... any ideas? i really need some help on this... i dont wanna change the whole tank because of this!
A good argument for anyone who does their own repairs to invest in a welder. I've had decent luck die-grinding a slot and using a flat tip or even flat tip in socket with a ratchet. If the fastener stops moving after loosening a bit go back tight and loosen again over and over using pen oil.
Good job! I've broken a bolt head off about flush so that I had nothing to grab on to. From my experience it's sometimes easier to drill and tap out a hole verses drilling a hole and attempting to use a so called Easy Out. I'm restoring a vintage Chevy Truck and rust is my enemy. I bought a torch kit for those rusted bolt heads and nuts on the frame that I have no choice but to melt off the nuts and/or bolt and drive them out with an pneumatic impact hammer.
what would I ground to?
I'll check it out.
so, how do you feel about broken off bolts?
@RooFx Thanks ; )