Sir - I rarely comment on videos - HOWEVER today I chose to make an exception. I have watched MOST of your videos, and they rank among the best most informative learning activities I think anyone interested in electronics can choose to spend their time doing. What great work! Thank YOU!!!
Thank you. I just bought one and was getting very frustrated with its partial function. Simple things such as knowing it’s supposed to be used in a vertical orientation make a big difference! I don’t expect to fully understand the complex theoretical bits, it’s not not my day job, impressed that you do though. More impressed by your consistent ability to explain the relevant bits of complexity in order to use the product, across all of your videos. Very useful and solidly reliable, a ‘go to’ site where you’ve published for anything I’ve bought. Phil
JustGame ....Understand that I'm 65 and still in an analog world. Fortran IV is the only computer language I ever "learned." I'm am ordering an Arduino training kit when I can afford it. Digital here I come!!!
Bud Brady you will pick it up the more you watch, I know when I first started watching GS I was just getting into electronics and barely understand anything but just hearing the terms used and working on my own projects I have a much deeper understanding of these videos
usually I hate it when youtubers are sponsored, but when it's something that is related, like your electrical engineering and JLCPCB I find it very likable
Im still wondering how these people with 10 million subscribers like Unbox Therapy can get that popular with doing very simple videos (just unboxing things) and you, Scott, (only!) 800.000 Subscribers...
Because those channels focus on mass audiences who just watches videos without any indepth knowledge on anything and at best case be aware of the specs list of whatever being advertised and say it back like a parrot. They are the type of people who will tell you the ram of a phone that's 8gb is the same as a pc 8 gb because they only know that aspect but rather not know anything about bus speed etc.
Every time I see you writing, using highlighters, and rulers it reminds of school in Germany. I lived in Germany and attended school until the 5th grade. I really am amazed at how much better schools are in Germany. I was so far ahead when I started school in the US. Ahead in everything, but English that is. Anyways, sorry for the off-topic rant, keep up the great videos.
One thing to consider is that while the parallel interface requires fewer clock cycles to set the data it may actually take more clock cycles on the microcontroller because many microcontrollers offer hardware SPI, I2C, and UART modules which operate independently of the rest of the processor.
You literally read my mind. A few days back I was also thinking about a touch screen display for my arduinos and now you made a video about them. Wow amazing you are awesome.
the money shot: "How the hell can we provide a total of 1040 control lines for the Arduino?" I just love your videos. Thanks so much for enlightening me.
Although those screens are listed as 5V tolerant, they work with 3.3volts. You need to use a level converter such as BSS138 mosfet in order to use SPI interface.
FYI: The Display you tied on @5:42 is 3.3V only. Although it claims to be 5V tolerant, it is NOT. Mine was not working as well, so I used a Level-Converter and... "voila", it works perfectly. (You can also use a couple of resistors, but that turned out to be not reliable at all) You can use 3.3V Arduino boards. I use a Bluepill STM32 board now with the ADAFRUIT_GFX_AS and Adafruit_ILI9341_STM libraries and this is fast as lightning. But thanks for the great video!!!
This is just much more than great Mr Great Scott I needed such a video since so long cause I love to make everything from scratch even an LCD or anything Thank you so much for this
I also ordered 2 of those 8 bit displays and could not get it running for the life of me. Just by accident I tried the other one and it worked immediately. So it is quite possible that your serial display is broken. I completely agree with your statement about pin usage. On a nano you have 1 or 2 pins left. One other thing: better to draw complex UI on the computer and show the image on the display. This way you "only" have to implement the click map.
*Try Nextion Displays, they are more expensive but they allow for more complex GUIs since they run the GUI on their own and can communiceate with microcontrollers.*
I had no idea those exist, I am already looking into it now and it looks promising for my room (door lock/tempreture/curtain) project, instead of manually coding my display i could use this and half my workload. Thanks :)
I agree - Nextion displays are better than these. And also more expensive. The price for these are good though. I guess it depends on your project and your budget.
Nextion are better, but cost more. Maybe in the future, MCUfriends will develope an editor like Nextion, & bobs your uncle, they will be the favourites.
Hi Scott. I am sure you figured the SPI version out by now and my not even read this message but, the Arduino uses 5v IO ports and the TFT SPI uses 3.3v signals. You have to create a voltage divider for the SPI data connections. Also add the RST Pin #define if using the adafruit library.
Check that your SIGNAL lines are at 3 volt at time 5:52 , if not you will get white screen. Been there done that. You will need a voltage converter. Just subscribed :)
das hat halt immer zwei seiten, ein touchscreen lcd is natürlich super schick und für sagen wir einen 3d drucker bestimmt auch einigermaßen praktisch. aber die meisten sachen die man mit einem arduino macht sind doch eher simpel, man braucht da keine großartige GUI oder einen touchscreen. sagen wir mal, ich bau mir ein punktschweißgerät, da ist die warscheinlichkeit sehr hoch, dass ich handschuhe trage, da is ein dreh poti mit taster um einiges angenehmer zu bedienen als ein touchscreen.
Unless mentioned before, cheapo screens like the SainSmart are likely to lose touch functionality after a year or so unless you add a protective shield (like a phone display cover) and protect the flat-cable by putting something hard on top of it, or repeated use/clicks will lead to intermittent failure due to material stress. They're cheap and good for experimenting with, but go with a tougher-quality display if it's meant to be used over a long period of time, or in rough environments such as being carried around in a pocket.
Thank you, GreatScott for this very informative and helpful video! It will definitely help me with using my LCD touch screen shields, which I bought just a few days ago. :)
Hello Scott.. thanks for the video... You have taken exact examples with the gist of the codding and basic working.. thanks a lot for presenting variety of projects..
And you only need 4 Pins (Rx, Tx, GRD, Vin) But be careful when buying, if on the back "TJC" is written, it is the Chinese version and it would NOT be running with the Nextion Editor.
I made this mistake because the article was cheaper and in ebay the title was " Nextion 3,2" ". And now I must have the chinese editor running and paralel the nextion editor so I can see which buttons are to press. very annoying :-(
Hi Scott! Nice video as always. I used these displays in the past, than I discovered nextion displays and my life changed 😂 I suggest you to try these displays... You can do amazing things with them easier 😏
Lol. *Look up the MCUfriend library for that shield based display* ...you know...the one mentioned on the silkscreen of the breakout board... That is one of the best display libraries written for Arduino and TFT displays. That library can even auto detect the hardware of the display because the MCUfriend library also specifies the shield pinout. The hardware is probed and supported using conditional if statements in the code so it can support a range of different hardware. It's an incredible example to check out. One thing I'm curious about are the memory IC's associated with a lot of these displays. Often they are unpopulated footprints on the breakout boards. I'm curious what they can be used for. Can these store backgrounds/images to lessen the load on the uC, or speed up the display in some other way? Do we need to program the memory externally or in circuit? Has anyone found a better deal on an ili9341 display than $4.23 shipped (AliEx/what I paid 10/2017[the listing has changed since]) ?
@@GRBtutorials That's about the price of 3 arduino clones if your willing to buy the all too common versions that use a ceramic resonator for the 328 like the official design specs. I have found the micro and mini clones with crystals instead of ceramic resonators for ~$2. It doesn't really matter though bc Ardy1 is all about the libraries not the hardware. If the hardware really mattered we should have been using the ATmega1284 ages ago, as it has the most features of any ATmega uC that comes in a 40 pin replaceable dip package. There is an ArdyIDE compatible version called the "Sleeping Beauty" project, but I haven't tried it myself yet. I will soon though bc I found an AliEx seller that posted ATmega644's at $0.90 each. I ordered a half dozen, and he's disabled the listing as "unavailable" ever since. Arrow also has the dip 40 version of the 644 for around $5 and with their free shipping deal, they have the best price I have found on those. I'm primarily interested in building a home etched version of the open source AVR transistor tester project version 2 from the official documentation using the 644, but I want to try the sleeping beauty hardware eventually too. That project is easy to find via google and the official page links to gerbers posted publicly on Osh Park. They can be downloaded and etched or they also work on the PCBway or JLCpcb site. I have no affiliation with either. However if anyone is interested in projects like this, I know JLCpcb hasn't stopped people from doing panelized designs. PCBway says they will not do panelized designs without a surcharge. I built a cart of items on JLCpcb awhile back. You can modify the 10 quantity for $2 first order thing to order a quality of 5, if you order multiple items. Each quantity of 5 was $2 as it showed in my cart and I took it all the way to the "input your credit card" screen. I didn't purchase it though as I was just exploring the option at the time. That said, if I understand all of these unspoken options on their site I can panelize two or more designs with multiple projects fit into multiple 100mm × 100mm double sided design/gerbers, then they are $2 each with free shipping. ...Sorry ....tangent...All that said at $4.23 for a single LCD... Even if I etch a design myself, I have already learned the hard way, never buy 1 of anything. There is no replacement for the ability to swap 2 items to determine if one is faulty. I've spent many hours trying to solve single product faults because I was dumb and ordering one of whatever thing. So at a minimum I'm looking at $8 for this LCD. If I'm going to order 5 or 10 of a PCB I need to order 6 or 11 LCD's. So that's going to be around $21 to $46 just for the LCD. However, building all of them, keeping one or two, and listing the rest on eBay should cover most of the project's costs. That's how I view these kinds of purchases. I break everything down to what the single quantity price is, but I'm usually looking for the best deal on multi-quantity listings or price breaks ;) Sorry if writing details offends anyone. I'm just sharing and like when others do the same. -Jake
Sure, I was just doing a rough estimate with "the same price". The clones I buy cost 3 € minimum. Does Arrow really have free shipping no matter the price of your order? Digi-Key and Mouser both have a 50 €/$ minimum order price for free shipping. Do they ship free to Spain as well? For prototyping and one-off projects, etching your own PCBs is the best method. It's the fastest one (you can make a PCB in 20-30 minutes at most and I don't know of any carrier shipping that fast) and most likely the cheapest one as well since you only need one. And what if you make a fatal, unfixable mistake? (like Jeremy, aka GreatScott! made in one episode of DIY or Buy that made him go for Buy. Seriously? You give up already?) Then you have 10 boards that are junk. But if you etch them, you only have one broken PCB. I agree with you on buying more than one of anything (though I sometimes break that rule if it's too expensive), but it's not that expensive unless there are really that many faulty components. Then you should buy from another source as that one is unreliable. But if all of the ones you buy work, then don't worry, you'll find some way of using them all! And making various boards and selling them sounds like a good idea, especially considering you can sell them for more than the components cost you!
@@GRBtutorials Agreed. My biggest issue so far with etching is just getting my trace resolution low enough. I can do a perfect double sided etch with dry film at a trace resolution of 0.6mm to 0.75mm using the super cheap Chinese film and cheap copper clad. I try to keep my traces around 1mm and larger as much as possible right now. I've gone all the way down to 0.4mm using toner transfer but the traces are getting sketchy at that kind of resolution with the cheap setup I'm using. I'm collecting the stuff needed to upscale my etching setup now. I think I'll be able to improve my resolution if I stop trying to squeeze my designs onto 10cm × 15cm copper clad with ~1cm margins. I just ordered some 8in × 12in (~20cm × ~30cm) from ABCfab on eBay last night. That should maximize my potential design area close to the size of an A4 transparency. I'm going to try to panelize a few projects and make an attempt at a 10×10 LQFP-64 at 0.5mm pitch in the next few days. I also hope I can replicate my toner transfer TSSOP 0.65mm pitch/0.4mm resolution using dry film too. I've heard that I need to pick up some Dupont Resiston film to get better results but I still need to order it. I guess I need some better enchant though bc my last project iteration took 45 min etching and you just claimed you could do 2 total iterations in that timespan. It takes me about 3 days to do each revision of a design, but I'm a partially disabled gimp and very slow. Maybe when I get my setup dialed in I'll be a bit faster. I know I'd speed things up if I figured out how to add the teardrop trace plugin to KiCAD. I currently design in KiCAD then export an SVG image to GIMP. Then I finalize my design in GIMP by removing every sharp edge and angle. I've only done around a dozen etches using dry film so far, so I'm still dialing it in. In my opinion Jeremy is mostly interested in monetizing this whole YT affair. Almost everything he does is focused on advertisers and referral kickbacks. I don't hold that against him or anything. However, his best uploads IMO are the ones where he's building or doing some project he actually wants to work on like his bike project, solar roof, or RGB light-wall-thing from way back. I don't think he's got a very technical background beyond the electronics stuff. Most of the YT community is in the same situation though. We can't all be Big Clive or AKA Kasyan. I think it would prove challenging for Jeremy to develop a solid prototyping system and keep his weekly upload schedule. Plus the largest audience here on YT are the absolute beginners not the intermediate or advanced enthusiasts. Financially, he's probably right where he needs to be with content. As far as Arrow and the free shipping deal, I'm not sure about how their international business works. The deal I see is for free overnight FedEx shipping with no minimum order. I've done a few $20-$40 orders so far and it's pretty awesome. I've almost ordered from digikey a few times in the past when they were the only one that stocked a part or two, but I have always found alternatives and equivalents. Supposedly, there is a way to get free shipping (plus cost of a postage stamp) from Digikey if you send a BOM on some kind of ancient mail order form and include a check for the correct total. There's an old post on the eevblog forum that details this, and has the pdf form IIRC. That's too much hassle for me, plus Digikey already has the highest prices on every bom I've compared against mouser. I've ordered from mouser a few times but they cost me ~$4 shipping. I'm in the greater Los Angeles California area so they all have business operations in the state which means I have to pay ~10% extra in state sales tax too. Free shipping places Arrow on even footing with AliEx sellers on a lot of things especially more modern microcontrollers. The next day delivery means they are by-far the most convenient option I have available. Their website is really bad though, and the mobile version is practically useless. I think they have international operations and their FedEx deal could be int, but I don't know. Most of their shipments come to me from out of state so it's not a local kind of thing. -Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics Totally agree. On Ebay always buy at least 2 of each. Mcufriend library by David Prentice helped me getting those Mcufriend tft modules come alive. They are produced with different control chips and with no documentation or marking and they can be hard to identify. Check also this site: www.tindie.com/stores/MCUdude/. This board supports all the 40 pins ATmega's. Up to 1284. A little expensive,but good quality.
The serial one works great with the Raspberry pi, because the kernel has the needed FBTFT driver built in. There is a driver for the touch panel, too so you can use it to run the normal Xorg gui on it.
The first one did not work maybe because you used 5v IOs. You *NEED* to use 3.3v I/o, powering at 5v is fine though.. The Arduino is not powerful enough / not enough ram for those screens. Much better to use a STM32-duino. Additionnaly, in my experience if you use the same SPI but for both LCD and touchscreen , you may need to be careful about speed. The touchscreen chip is much slower than the LCD chip.
Thank you . It was complete as well as not long however I notice that you put your finger in a not exact location of the buttons which means touch screen may not work exactly. Maybe you should create a video about calibrating touch screens.
Hean Stone It’s all relative. GUIs are probably the things that least require a high frame rate out of all screen-based activities. Frame rate is surely less important for a GUI than it is a video or a game.
5:50 6 years later, here I am with the SAME issue. Turned out I couldn't use the Adafruit library everyone else uses, had to use LCDWIKI to get it to work. Now I gotta figure out if it's a slow arduino I'm using, or if the library is poorly optimized, cause clearing the screen takes like 10 seconds! Edit: nvm, got Adafruit to work on a different UNO, and then when transitioning to a Nano it was broken... These things are wack.
Okay so, slightly off the wall here. A while ago I wrote Lua code for a Minecraft mod called ComputerCraft. And made touchscreen displays for various things inn my games. When I first started to play with the capacitive LCD's for Arduino I pretty much only slightly altered the code from Lua to work on Arduino and it looked exactly like this.. Pretty interesting how one solution can bridge not only multiple languages but also completely different implementations.
I have been able to use Arduino Uno's and Nanos with those types of screens but you have to use series resistors with all pins connected to the display simply because those displays are native 3.3 volt and don't like the 5-volt signals
Many thanks for this video, I've been trying to wrap my head around how to use tft displays for a while. I need to get one of those shields for testing now. Thanks!
An Uno will work with the 8-bit TFT and up to 5 other sensors. You can actually use a few more pins than just A5 since there are a few NC pins and the SD pins are not needed. My 3.5" TFT has the NRF24L01 to receive data from various sensors and to control other devices. This tutorial was helpful: [search Google for "Multi temperature-humidity sensing with an Arduino Nano displayed on a 3.5″ color TFT screen"; my comments with a link are being automatically deleted].
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Sir - I rarely comment on videos - HOWEVER today I chose to make an exception. I have watched MOST of your videos, and they rank among the best most informative learning activities I think anyone interested in electronics can choose to spend their time doing. What great work! Thank YOU!!!
9:37
GreatScott - *all we had to do *
My brain - *was follow the damn train cj*
Huh?
@@peterhimmelman9241 GTA San Andreas Reference
Thank you. I just bought one and was getting very frustrated with its partial function. Simple things such as knowing it’s supposed to be used in a vertical orientation make a big difference! I don’t expect to fully understand the complex theoretical bits, it’s not not my day job, impressed that you do though. More impressed by your consistent ability to explain the relevant bits of complexity in order to use the product, across all of your videos. Very useful and solidly reliable, a ‘go to’ site where you’ve published for anything I’ve bought. Phil
I understand 5% but enjoy 100%. Thanks!
JustGame ....Understand that I'm 65 and still in an analog world. Fortran IV is the only computer language I ever "learned." I'm am ordering an Arduino training kit when I can afford it. Digital here I come!!!
Bud Brady you will pick it up the more you watch, I know when I first started watching GS I was just getting into electronics and barely understand anything but just hearing the terms used and working on my own projects I have a much deeper understanding of these videos
Bud Brady That's great to know. May I ask where are you from?
Anirudh Appala northern Indiana USA
Bud Brady Okay. I'm from India. Not sure how the logistics is going to work but I'd love to sponsor a basic kit for you!
usually I hate it when youtubers are sponsored, but when it's something that is related, like your electrical engineering and JLCPCB I find it very likable
actually I hate sponserships from mobile games, website builders and audible
fuck audible
Im still wondering how these people with 10 million subscribers like Unbox Therapy can get that popular with doing very simple videos (just unboxing things) and you, Scott, (only!) 800.000 Subscribers...
Because those channels focus on mass audiences who just watches videos without any indepth knowledge on anything and at best case be aware of the specs list of whatever being advertised and say it back like a parrot. They are the type of people who will tell you the ram of a phone that's 8gb is the same as a pc 8 gb because they only know that aspect but rather not know anything about bus speed etc.
Because youtube is mostly background noise you play when you are at your computer
Every time I see you writing, using highlighters, and rulers it reminds of school in Germany. I lived in Germany and attended school until the 5th grade. I really am amazed at how much better schools are in Germany. I was so far ahead when I started school in the US. Ahead in everything, but English that is. Anyways, sorry for the off-topic rant, keep up the great videos.
88HD even schools between states in the us vary massively.
Moved a few times as a kid, pretty much did 4th grade twice.
In the Philippines, they use different colored pens to highlight.Not barging...sorry
Irony: Most parents and kids think the school system and quality in germany is bad and needs to be renewed.
Brilliant
One thing to consider is that while the parallel interface requires fewer clock cycles to set the data it may actually take more clock cycles on the microcontroller because many microcontrollers offer hardware SPI, I2C, and UART modules which operate independently of the rest of the processor.
Your 1 million subscribers coming soon
Well, it will take some time. But we will get there.
Ok
I'm your Big Fan
Clasher King Ayan very soon
GreatScott! Yes
You literally read my mind. A few days back I was also thinking about a touch screen display for my arduinos and now you made a video about them. Wow amazing you are awesome.
bro, I feel like every project I start working on, you already have a video about it! Amazign!
the money shot: "How the hell can we provide a total of 1040 control lines for the Arduino?" I just love your videos. Thanks so much for enlightening me.
I can't wait until you get 1 million subscribers. I've been watching your videos for 2.5 years now!
Highlighter used upto it's maximum capacity 😉
"But we live in 2018"
Jokes on you, greetings from 2020!
lol
Joke's on you. Greetings from 2025.
Jokes on u greeting from being locked in the fucken house
Jokes on you, greetings from hell
Considering how 2020 is going I think the jokes on you.
Perfect video. I love your videos. Just keep like this. The world needs people like you.
Thank you very much :-)
Very nice. Like always. I like your videos. Just a small correction: it should be 0-239 and 0-319 at 7:39.
A programmer once said "We are celebrating our 0th year wedding anniversary"
Am always looking forward to your videos. they're all GREAT
Like Frosted Flakes!
ua-cam.com/video/O6EcMSWRpms/v-deo.html
*Warning*
Alot Of Highlighters Were Abused In The Video
Although those screens are listed as 5V tolerant, they work with 3.3volts. You need to use a level converter such as BSS138 mosfet in order to use SPI interface.
FYI:
The Display you tied on @5:42 is 3.3V only. Although it claims to be 5V tolerant, it is NOT.
Mine was not working as well, so I used a Level-Converter and... "voila", it works perfectly. (You can also use a couple of resistors, but that turned out to be not reliable at all)
You can use 3.3V Arduino boards.
I use a Bluepill STM32 board now with the ADAFRUIT_GFX_AS and Adafruit_ILI9341_STM libraries and this is fast as lightning.
But thanks for the great video!!!
This is just much more than great Mr Great Scott I needed such a video since so long cause I love to make everything from scratch even an LCD or anything
Thank you so much for this
You're welcome :-)
No words. Really found a better person. Well done ...
I say wow Great Scott! As a newbie in electronics I'm learning a lot watching your videos. I've started from your into to electronics. Thanks.
What I like from each of your video is how you end up your video 👍,
"stay creative" that's so GREAT
I really love how you always make projects about things what I am fancying to try :D Love you man (nohomo), keep up the good work!
You are great. I don't have words to express my gratitude. In my mother tongue " ඔයාට බොහෝමත්ම ස්තූතියි".
I also ordered 2 of those 8 bit displays and could not get it running for the life of me. Just by accident I tried the other one and it worked immediately. So it is quite possible that your serial display is broken.
I completely agree with your statement about pin usage. On a nano you have 1 or 2 pins left.
One other thing: better to draw complex UI on the computer and show the image on the display. This way you "only" have to implement the click map.
*Try Nextion Displays, they are more expensive but they allow for more complex GUIs since they run the GUI on their own and can communiceate with microcontrollers.*
It also only takes up two pins on your arduino, and there is a software to visually edit your GUI
Nextion are the best displays for arduino. You can use them also with ESP chips.
I had no idea those exist, I am already looking into it now and it looks promising for my room (door lock/tempreture/curtain) project, instead of manually coding my display i could use this and half my workload. Thanks :)
I agree - Nextion displays are better than these. And also more expensive. The price for these are good though. I guess it depends on your project and your budget.
Nextion are better, but cost more. Maybe in the future, MCUfriends will develope an editor like Nextion, & bobs your uncle, they will be the favourites.
Keep up the awesome vids. Highest quality go-to channel for any electronics project
Glad you like them :-)
Well deserved million subscribers, btw
Great video again! Is always welcome to have in-depth explanation of technologirs used.
Hi Scott. I am sure you figured the SPI version out by now and my not even read this message but, the Arduino uses 5v IO ports and the TFT SPI uses 3.3v signals. You have to create a voltage divider for the SPI data connections. Also add the RST Pin #define if using the adafruit library.
The video is very very good. I watched other videos also. Your video gives information of about 100 videos in one.
The great tutorial video that I haven't watch before. That was so explicit. Good job man
Check that your SIGNAL lines are at 3 volt at time 5:52 , if not you will get white screen. Been there done that. You will need a voltage converter. Just subscribed :)
Love your videos. However, i don't understand most of them. I find it amazing how you use all those formulas to figure out everything.
Great! Now time to apply this to my Raspberry Pi Rover so I can access controls on competition day!
As always...liked your video, detailed explanation, links to material and the last but not the least...learnt something!
das hat halt immer zwei seiten, ein touchscreen lcd is natürlich super schick und für sagen wir einen 3d drucker bestimmt auch einigermaßen praktisch.
aber die meisten sachen die man mit einem arduino macht sind doch eher simpel, man braucht da keine großartige GUI oder einen touchscreen. sagen wir mal, ich bau mir ein punktschweißgerät, da ist die warscheinlichkeit sehr hoch, dass ich handschuhe trage, da is ein dreh poti mit taster um einiges angenehmer zu bedienen als ein touchscreen.
Excuse me?
greatscott is german
Klar, jede Technologie hat ein für sich perfektes Einsatzgebiet.
Thank you for all the work you put into your videos. I learn very easily from your teaching technique. Thank you.
Unless mentioned before, cheapo screens like the SainSmart are likely to lose touch functionality after a year or so unless you add a protective shield (like a phone display cover) and protect the flat-cable by putting something hard on top of it, or repeated use/clicks will lead to intermittent failure due to material stress. They're cheap and good for experimenting with, but go with a tougher-quality display if it's meant to be used over a long period of time, or in rough environments such as being carried around in a pocket.
I really like those zoomed in views of the LCD, could watch that all day :O
Thank you, GreatScott for this very informative and helpful video! It will definitely help me with using my LCD touch screen shields, which I bought just a few days ago. :)
it is such a coincidence that I ordered my first a TFT colour LCD display on AliExpress on today morning : )
The issue you had with the first screen was logic level voltage. Try putting a 10k resistor on all the data lines and it will work.
Hello Scott.. thanks for the video... You have taken exact examples with the gist of the codding and basic working.. thanks a lot for presenting variety of projects..
i used to watch jefree star youtube vids and now im watching scott's! and i luv itttt
Very well detailed and instructive!!! The layout of the information and presentation are prefect. Much thanks and keep it coming.
Awesome videos man so glad you are still making more!
Hey, Scott! Do you think you can make your own Smart Glass? Like the dimmable transparent glass. Would love to see a video on it!
Try a nextion display... Its just an lcd display, but with its own microcontroller that loads the UI from built in SD card adapter..
And you only need 4 Pins (Rx, Tx, GRD, Vin)
But be careful when buying, if on the back "TJC" is written, it is the Chinese version and it would NOT be running with the Nextion Editor.
@@Tom-hg9lw Hmm, I didn't know that. Thanks for the info! Having just 4 pins(effectively 2) is also a pin saver!
I made this mistake because the article was cheaper and in ebay the title was " Nextion 3,2" ". And now I must have the chinese editor running and paralel the nextion editor so I can see which buttons are to press.
very annoying :-(
lol sorry I had to laugh @Tom, thanks for sharing though. I'll keep that in mind since I was interested in purchasing one.
definitely was searching for such vid!!!
thanks a lot scott!!!!!
You're welcome :-)
Thank you! I've been passively brainstorming how I'm going to implement my touchscreen UI for one of my projects.
I have always wanted to put one of these on my rc car but i didnt know how to implament it, Great vid scott!
GreatScott is a Great Channel..... so amazing,,so smart,, wonderfull,,
Not gonna lie just came for the intro... Haven't heard it in ages. Awesome video to though. 🙂
I have learned pretty much everything I know about electronics from you... Thank you so much!
Glad you enjoy the videos and learn something new. Thanks for watching :-)
Good tut on colour touch screens for Arduino projects - thanks! Nice handwriting btw.
First we had KipKay
Now we have Scott
Way better than a dad to teach me thing😂
Which pen you use...please tell me...i wannna buy
He is using a torx screw driver in this vid. These displays dont really need a pen to use but i recomend, to just a normal pen.
Noah Rodeghiero ...noooooo....the pen by which he is writing on paper....i find it cool...so i wanna buy
Stabilo
Xilog tysm
Hahahha nice one
Hi Scott! Nice video as always. I used these displays in the past, than I discovered nextion displays and my life changed 😂 I suggest you to try these displays... You can do amazing things with them easier 😏
You actually bringing really important and usable information to us.
Thank you very much
Really interesting video. Looking forward to 1 million video special!
Lol. *Look up the MCUfriend library for that shield based display* ...you know...the one mentioned on the silkscreen of the breakout board... That is one of the best display libraries written for Arduino and TFT displays. That library can even auto detect the hardware of the display because the MCUfriend library also specifies the shield pinout. The hardware is probed and supported using conditional if statements in the code so it can support a range of different hardware. It's an incredible example to check out.
One thing I'm curious about are the memory IC's associated with a lot of these displays. Often they are unpopulated footprints on the breakout boards. I'm curious what they can be used for. Can these store backgrounds/images to lessen the load on the uC, or speed up the display in some other way? Do we need to program the memory externally or in circuit?
Has anyone found a better deal on an ili9341 display than $4.23 shipped (AliEx/what I paid 10/2017[the listing has changed since]) ?
$4.23 is expensive? That's about the price of an Arduino clone!
@@GRBtutorials
That's about the price of 3 arduino clones if your willing to buy the all too common versions that use a ceramic resonator for the 328 like the official design specs. I have found the micro and mini clones with crystals instead of ceramic resonators for ~$2. It doesn't really matter though bc Ardy1 is all about the libraries not the hardware. If the hardware really mattered we should have been using the ATmega1284 ages ago, as it has the most features of any ATmega uC that comes in a 40 pin replaceable dip package. There is an ArdyIDE compatible version called the "Sleeping Beauty" project, but I haven't tried it myself yet. I will soon though bc I found an AliEx seller that posted ATmega644's at $0.90 each. I ordered a half dozen, and he's disabled the listing as "unavailable" ever since. Arrow also has the dip 40 version of the 644 for around $5 and with their free shipping deal, they have the best price I have found on those. I'm primarily interested in building a home etched version of the open source AVR transistor tester project version 2 from the official documentation using the 644, but I want to try the sleeping beauty hardware eventually too. That project is easy to find via google and the official page links to gerbers posted publicly on Osh Park. They can be downloaded and etched or they also work on the PCBway or JLCpcb site. I have no affiliation with either. However if anyone is interested in projects like this, I know JLCpcb hasn't stopped people from doing panelized designs. PCBway says they will not do panelized designs without a surcharge. I built a cart of items on JLCpcb awhile back. You can modify the 10 quantity for $2 first order thing to order a quality of 5, if you order multiple items. Each quantity of 5 was $2 as it showed in my cart and I took it all the way to the "input your credit card" screen. I didn't purchase it though as I was just exploring the option at the time. That said, if I understand all of these unspoken options on their site I can panelize two or more designs with multiple projects fit into multiple 100mm × 100mm double sided design/gerbers, then they are $2 each with free shipping.
...Sorry ....tangent...All that said at $4.23 for a single LCD... Even if I etch a design myself, I have already learned the hard way, never buy 1 of anything. There is no replacement for the ability to swap 2 items to determine if one is faulty. I've spent many hours trying to solve single product faults because I was dumb and ordering one of whatever thing. So at a minimum I'm looking at $8 for this LCD. If I'm going to order 5 or 10 of a PCB I need to order 6 or 11 LCD's. So that's going to be around $21 to $46 just for the LCD. However, building all of them, keeping one or two, and listing the rest on eBay should cover most of the project's costs.
That's how I view these kinds of purchases. I break everything down to what the single quantity price is, but I'm usually looking for the best deal on multi-quantity listings or price breaks ;)
Sorry if writing details offends anyone. I'm just sharing and like when others do the same.
-Jake
Sure, I was just doing a rough estimate with "the same price". The clones I buy cost 3 € minimum. Does Arrow really have free shipping no matter the price of your order? Digi-Key and Mouser both have a 50 €/$ minimum order price for free shipping. Do they ship free to Spain as well?
For prototyping and one-off projects, etching your own PCBs is the best method. It's the fastest one (you can make a PCB in 20-30 minutes at most and I don't know of any carrier shipping that fast) and most likely the cheapest one as well since you only need one. And what if you make a fatal, unfixable mistake? (like Jeremy, aka GreatScott! made in one episode of DIY or Buy that made him go for Buy. Seriously? You give up already?) Then you have 10 boards that are junk. But if you etch them, you only have one broken PCB.
I agree with you on buying more than one of anything (though I sometimes break that rule if it's too expensive), but it's not that expensive unless there are really that many faulty components. Then you should buy from another source as that one is unreliable. But if all of the ones you buy work, then don't worry, you'll find some way of using them all! And making various boards and selling them sounds like a good idea, especially considering you can sell them for more than the components cost you!
@@GRBtutorials
Agreed. My biggest issue so far with etching is just getting my trace resolution low enough. I can do a perfect double sided etch with dry film at a trace resolution of 0.6mm to 0.75mm using the super cheap Chinese film and cheap copper clad. I try to keep my traces around 1mm and larger as much as possible right now. I've gone all the way down to 0.4mm using toner transfer but the traces are getting sketchy at that kind of resolution with the cheap setup I'm using. I'm collecting the stuff needed to upscale my etching setup now. I think I'll be able to improve my resolution if I stop trying to squeeze my designs onto 10cm × 15cm copper clad with ~1cm margins. I just ordered some 8in × 12in (~20cm × ~30cm) from ABCfab on eBay last night. That should maximize my potential design area close to the size of an A4 transparency. I'm going to try to panelize a few projects and make an attempt at a 10×10 LQFP-64 at 0.5mm pitch in the next few days. I also hope I can replicate my toner transfer TSSOP 0.65mm pitch/0.4mm resolution using dry film too. I've heard that I need to pick up some Dupont Resiston film to get better results but I still need to order it.
I guess I need some better enchant though bc my last project iteration took 45 min etching and you just claimed you could do 2 total iterations in that timespan. It takes me about 3 days to do each revision of a design, but I'm a partially disabled gimp and very slow. Maybe when I get my setup dialed in I'll be a bit faster. I know I'd speed things up if I figured out how to add the teardrop trace plugin to KiCAD. I currently design in KiCAD then export an SVG image to GIMP. Then I finalize my design in GIMP by removing every sharp edge and angle. I've only done around a dozen etches using dry film so far, so I'm still dialing it in.
In my opinion Jeremy is mostly interested in monetizing this whole YT affair. Almost everything he does is focused on advertisers and referral kickbacks. I don't hold that against him or anything. However, his best uploads IMO are the ones where he's building or doing some project he actually wants to work on like his bike project, solar roof, or RGB light-wall-thing from way back. I don't think he's got a very technical background beyond the electronics stuff. Most of the YT community is in the same situation though. We can't all be Big Clive or AKA Kasyan. I think it would prove challenging for Jeremy to develop a solid prototyping system and keep his weekly upload schedule. Plus the largest audience here on YT are the absolute beginners not the intermediate or advanced enthusiasts. Financially, he's probably right where he needs to be with content.
As far as Arrow and the free shipping deal, I'm not sure about how their international business works. The deal I see is for free overnight FedEx shipping with no minimum order. I've done a few $20-$40 orders so far and it's pretty awesome. I've almost ordered from digikey a few times in the past when they were the only one that stocked a part or two, but I have always found alternatives and equivalents. Supposedly, there is a way to get free shipping (plus cost of a postage stamp) from Digikey if you send a BOM on some kind of ancient mail order form and include a check for the correct total. There's an old post on the eevblog forum that details this, and has the pdf form IIRC. That's too much hassle for me, plus Digikey already has the highest prices on every bom I've compared against mouser. I've ordered from mouser a few times but they cost me ~$4 shipping. I'm in the greater Los Angeles California area so they all have business operations in the state which means I have to pay ~10% extra in state sales tax too. Free shipping places Arrow on even footing with AliEx sellers on a lot of things especially more modern microcontrollers. The next day delivery means they are by-far the most convenient option I have available. Their website is really bad though, and the mobile version is practically useless.
I think they have international operations and their FedEx deal could be int, but I don't know. Most of their shipments come to me from out of state so it's not a local kind of thing.
-Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics Totally agree. On Ebay always buy at least 2 of each.
Mcufriend library by David Prentice helped me getting those Mcufriend tft modules come alive. They are produced with different control chips and with no documentation
or marking and they can be hard to identify.
Check also this site: www.tindie.com/stores/MCUdude/. This board supports all the 40 pins ATmega's. Up to 1284. A little expensive,but good quality.
Really enjoyed your tft lcd theory breakdown
Your tutorials is always interesting and useful. Thanks.
I would like if you make microcontrollers tutorials. Please consider that :c
I love how you explain things.❤️
The serial one works great with the Raspberry pi, because the kernel has the needed FBTFT driver built in. There is a driver for the touch panel, too so you can use it to run the normal Xorg gui on it.
Very useful video....... GreatScott! ..
Keep continuing .....
Your videos are always cool we always learn something new fro. ur videos keep uploading
The first one did not work maybe because you used 5v IOs. You *NEED* to use 3.3v I/o, powering at 5v is fine though.. The Arduino is not powerful enough / not enough ram for those screens. Much better to use a STM32-duino. Additionnaly, in my experience if you use the same SPI but for both LCD and touchscreen , you may need to be careful about speed. The touchscreen chip is much slower than the LCD chip.
Can you please do a camera stabilizer with an arduino. Thanks!
I put it on my to do list
GreatScott! Thanks man!
Joey Absi well you have to consider that his to do list may be a _little bit_ long... xD
There's smart, and then there is this fella.
I will never miss your show is the best thing to me 👍 👍 👍 👍.
Thank you :-)
K Bro no need to thank you help me to go for electronic in Nigeria 🇳🇬 that a lot keep up 👆 Bro.
Thank you . It was complete as well as not long however I notice that you put your finger in a not exact location of the buttons which means touch screen may not work exactly. Maybe you should create a video about calibrating touch screens.
you are the MKBHD of the electric world in youtube
new background music was refreshing.
This... is... exactly what i needed!!
Thx for the video!!
When it comes to GUIs framerate is very very important.
Hean Stone It’s all relative. GUIs are probably the things that least require a high frame rate out of all screen-based activities. Frame rate is surely less important for a GUI than it is a video or a game.
You are great teacher and good voice, thank you very much
5:50 6 years later, here I am with the SAME issue.
Turned out I couldn't use the Adafruit library everyone else uses, had to use LCDWIKI to get it to work.
Now I gotta figure out if it's a slow arduino I'm using, or if the library is poorly optimized, cause clearing the screen takes like 10 seconds!
Edit: nvm, got Adafruit to work on a different UNO, and then when transitioning to a Nano it was broken... These things are wack.
Thanks!
Thanks for the support :-)
More touchscreen projects, please. Love your videos.
7:38 Interesting, a 241 x 321 pixel display, are you sure?
Video: How to make a touchscreen.
Emmet Brown: Great Scott!
Marty McFly: I know. It's heavy.
What equipment and knowledge will I need to become a pro at designing display panels?
Inspiring videos! Great channel! You make the projects not scary, and that's excellent for electronic beginners! Thanks!!
Very professional!wonderful! Thanks for your sharing!
You could try with the 16 bit connection with arduino using 10k resistors in series. I don’t know why it works that way but it works.
A great creative video as always! 👌👌
Okay so, slightly off the wall here. A while ago I wrote Lua code for a Minecraft mod called ComputerCraft. And made touchscreen displays for various things inn my games. When I first started to play with the capacitive LCD's for Arduino I pretty much only slightly altered the code from Lua to work on Arduino and it looked exactly like this..
Pretty interesting how one solution can bridge not only multiple languages but also completely different implementations.
I have been able to use Arduino Uno's and Nanos with those types of screens but you have to use series resistors with all pins connected to the display simply because those displays are native 3.3 volt and don't like the 5-volt signals
HOLY GUI! YOU CAN MAKE A COMPUTER THAT CAN HACK ANYTHING BY 1 BUTTON BECAUSE YOUR SO SMART!
Many thanks for this video, I've been trying to wrap my head around how to use tft displays for a while. I need to get one of those shields for testing now. Thanks!
that looks so cool! gotta try it! btw roard to 1 million!
Sssssssssstay creative and I will see you next time! great video as always!
Very nice video. NASA level research...
You have a microscope !! Thats cool :D , what do you use it for ?
An Uno will work with the 8-bit TFT and up to 5 other sensors. You can actually use a few more pins than just A5 since there are a few NC pins and the SD pins are not needed. My 3.5" TFT has the NRF24L01 to receive data from various sensors and to control other devices. This tutorial was helpful: [search Google for "Multi temperature-humidity sensing with an Arduino Nano displayed on a 3.5″ color TFT screen"; my comments with a link are being automatically deleted].