Thank you for taking the time to explain this , nice there are still master craftsmen whom have the patience to share their knowledge . Learned a lot from your videos , much appreciation .
Wish this video had been available twenty five years ago. Best overview I've ever seen. Very much agree with thinking hard about hard fitting every barrel contact surface to be a zero tolerance but no drag fit. Mr. Serva seems to be suggesting for most is a gun that will run even if every round of ammunition is less than perfect, and the pistol hasn't been cleaned for over an hour. Learned that the hard way.
Great tips for a hand fit. I'm dealing with a new A1 with a 70 series gauging that will need some adjustment, but not looking to use for match, so much as being less problematic for everyday use. A longer guide pin, better quality recoil spring, and a just few better quality magazines after noticing a little dive with the cartridges with a feed to battery. Not real happy with jams, or stove pipes, but can't tolerate a lock-up if I'm going into a defense stance. Really enjoyed your thoughts and all your observances about the likely causes of malfunctioning segments, or just plain poor fitment. Very Cool.
Thank you for your knowledge kind sir. Much appreciated for us new Gunsmiths. The 1911 platform is my all time favorite. Thanks for the recipes. Great video always.
That was great! I now know now why God made me to do what I do and you to do the magic you do. I love your videos and watch one every time I think about doing it myself. I just used this one to convince a friend he needs to send his to a pro like the men of Fusion firearms.
Thanks for all the videos showing us and clearing any misconceptions. I'm looking forward to the part of the barrel fitting hood to slide /breechface and what kind of clearance should be there
Nice video! Answered questions I didn't know I had. I was wondering if you've ever heard of the Schuemann (spelling?) Timing test and was wondering what the process of that was all about, what are they searching for in that test?
Yes, timing.... this is something that we can get into down the road. For most folks this is a non-issue. You generally have to work with what you have (Assembly wise). For most common gunsmiths and hobbyist, and using common good quality parts, timing is something that most will not have to worry about. Generally for most applications your build will fall into the tolerances for acceptable timing for 95%+ of all the shooters out there.
What Method Do You Use For Staking In The Barrel Link Pin Bob 🔫 Also The Newer Colt Series 70’s Have a Thinner Barrel Hood & Slide Dimensions So Would a Standard Match Fusion Barrel Still Work & Would I Just Need To Remove More Material on The Hood Sides Thanks In Advance Bob Love This Series Of Videos 😊
For staking I just use a prick punch and bench lock. On the Colts, Yes, I do not understand why they have changed the hood width to a non-standard width, but yes we just mill the standard hood to fit. But, that is a good point, thanks for bring that up.
Man, that was a lot of excellent information! Where did you learn all this from? It would be nice if the video was a little brighter. Especially the work area.
I have everything working as you described in the video but my slide overhangs my frame by about 3/16" when its pushed all the way forward unless I remove the barrel bushing and then the barrel tips down and the slide moves forward to match the frame. The other think I'm finding is although the the barrel does go into the locking lugs of the slide it only engages them about .020 deep which seems shallow to me. My hood does make contact with the slide so I'm wondering if I need to file that slightly to perhaps let the lugs engage deeper. ??????
Is it a Fusion barrel? If so you do not have to mess with the lug depth, they are correct. Put the barrel bushing back in and tap the back of the slide with a small dead blow hammer or Nylon tipped hammer and see if you can get the back to match-up. If it does you will know that you are close.. Then you will probably need to relieve the ID of the bushing some, Sounds like you are binding up and the barrel is "springing", which will generally means the bushing is too tight, or you have too much interference at the back of the hood. look for rub spots on the barrel. Do the "Tap with the hammer" a few cycles and then remove barrel to see if you have indication(rub marks) of a heavy interference. Then file slightly those areas. Also, I am assuming you are using a No.3 (.278") link? Also, check barrel feet with link and slide stop pin to insure you are seating nicely and not binding..... hope this helps.
@@fusionfirearms Thanks for getting back to me, appreciate the info. I went ahead and proceeded with fitting the barrel and after taking a small amount off the hood and a little off the side of the barrel at the bottom of the lug grooves I now have .038 lug engagement and the slide is just about flush with the frame when all the way forward
Hey Bob, at 24:10 in the this awesome video, you talk about the contact points. A little at the slide stop, the hood, and on the “157”. What is the “157” you’re speaking of. Really appreciate this and all your videos. And have purchased some of your 1911 parts. Keep up the good work….🇺🇸😎🙏
Sir, The .157" is from the back of the hood to the shoulder. It will be where you may pick-up barrel contact on the opposite side of the ejection port. The sidewall. The sidewall dimension developed from the breech face to that sidewall shelf.
I recently purchased one of your 9mm bull barrels. I went through the barrel fitting and tuning, How much wear on the barrel hood from the slide locking lugs is acceptable? I don't have any issues to speak of, evening is working smoothly but I do see wear on the front of the barrel hood.
Wear on the barrel hood really does not matter. Depending on how hard your lock-up is, you will generally get wear on the hood. As long as you do not have functional issues or binding you are generally OK. If you link high with a longer link size, this can also cause barrel hood wear or marks.
Thanks for the video, Bob, Here is my issue: Hello. I have a Rock Island Compact size 1911 that I am trying to fit a new barrel to. The main issue I am having is that the slide will not go all the way forward into battery. The barrel type is a non ramped, bull type barrel. any help on what to look at would appreciated. Thanks, Dan🤠
Check and see if the barrel hood is hitting on the right or left side of the breach face. You may need more clearance. There are many things that can cause this. you can email in for tech help, rserva@outlook and send pictures of what you are dealing with.
My barrel slide lock up is good. Pistol functions nicely. I built a 4 inch bull barrel on an old ,but prestine, olympic arms slide and barrel, on an 80% frame. The blend is about 16th of an inch off. Slide shorter than frame. Is this cosmetic or barrel issue?
You can, most people at home will not have gauges. You can use a new factory cartridge to check if you don't have gauges. Also, On Semi-Auto pistols, it is best to have a bit of headspace, I generally like to see +.003-.006, especially in defense pistols. This will allow for dirt, debris, high primers... etc... variables that may cause jamming.
Excellent tips. I have a 1911 series 70 and I got a new ss match barrel to change from a threaded barrel. The problem is the slide will not go completely forward. Condition is no mag, assembled. I used a hone stone to take off some sharp edges but still the slide is hung up on the last 1/8". I have not tried to fire it. Any ideas?
Have you tried to see if the sides of the top of the barrel where it locks into the breechface are rubbing hard ??? Look for the grey spot.... use a file... also, is the extractor bumping the back of the barrel???
Great video series for the 1911. I have a question that I cannot get a straight answer to. I've asked several gunsmiths at local gunshops and got a few different answers. Can you install a bull barrel on a Springfield 1911-A1 GI series slide? I've been told NO YES BUT it requires welding and machining YES, by discarding bushing, fitting a reverse recoil plug with barrel support lug on it then fit it for correct lock up. What's fact what's fiction?
Yes, you can, I would first check the Slide Bore ID and make sure it is about .700". Then fit new bull barrel and reverse plug style. Tune and test.... and off you go.... Lots of bad information out there, Always go to the Pro's at Fusion for the real answers.
Im having a problem getting my barrel to fit . The ramps are several thousands from being aligned I’m thinking I need a different link no to get the barrel To go backwards I’m using a no 4 links now.. what do you suggest ?
This is a long topic & a good question, thank you. I will get this on our list to do a video on this. It really depends on what you are starting with and there are several schools of though. We will do this vid on the next run of filming.
Where should I look to start if my barrel seems to lock in place with my slide but once I go to assemble the pistol, the muzzle of the barrel is aimed downward rubbing the slide. So much the barrel bushing won't fit around it. Thanks in advance.
The barrel will be locking up on an angle, this is normal. it is hard to tell without looking at it but it seems you have binding. 1) Look at your link size(maybe too high) and your barrel foot for excessive lock-up pressure with the slide stop pin. 2) I would look at the ID of the bushing and OD of the barrel, and you probably need ID bushing clearance added. I don't know what you are totally dealing with but I would also look at interference at the barrel bed and the clearance angle on the front of the barrel bed.
@@fusionfirearms after watching your videos and learning the terminology, I read the instructions again that came with the ed brown barrel. Apparently I had to file away some of the recess in the barrel locking lug. It was kinda odd because you could see where one of the recessed cuts in the lugs was not as long around the barrel on both sides like the other was. Once filed to about equal lengths and depths, it seemed to lock into battery. Thanks for the advice!
how much would it cost for you guys to fit a new barrel and slide onto a gun? also is it possible to put something like a 6" barrel and slide on a gun like a RIA Standard CS?
Hard to say without looking at it. check it for interference's, such as rubbing the ejector. is this loaded or unloaded??? extractor binding on back of barrel There are many variables, this is a good topic to do a video on. We will put it on the list.
Fitting parts without confirming function before it leaves your shop? Because tuning is a seperate job from fitting? Damn that’s extremely disappointing
Thank you for taking the time to explain this , nice there are still master craftsmen whom have the patience to share their knowledge . Learned a lot from your videos , much appreciation .
You are very welcome. thank you for joining in and for all your nice comments!!
We thank you again for imparting your knowledge for free
My pleasure! Thank you for your super comments and support
Awesome just plain awesome. Very nice job Bob. Thank you, Vern
Thanks again! Thank you for your nice comments
Wish this video had been available twenty five years ago. Best overview I've ever seen. Very much agree with thinking hard about hard fitting every barrel contact surface to be a zero tolerance but no drag fit. Mr. Serva seems to be suggesting for most is a gun that will run even if every round of ammunition is less than perfect, and the pistol hasn't been cleaned for over an hour. Learned that the hard way.
Thank you for your super comments and support!
Great tips for a hand fit. I'm dealing with a new A1 with a 70 series gauging that will need some adjustment, but not looking to use for match, so much as being less problematic for everyday use. A longer guide pin, better quality recoil spring, and a just few better quality magazines after noticing a little dive with the cartridges with a feed to battery. Not real happy with jams, or stove pipes, but can't tolerate a lock-up if I'm going into a defense stance. Really enjoyed your thoughts and all your observances about the likely causes of malfunctioning segments, or just plain poor fitment. Very Cool.
Thank you for the very nice comments and thanks for joining in.
Thank you for your knowledge kind sir. Much appreciated for us new Gunsmiths. The 1911 platform is my all time favorite. Thanks for the recipes. Great video always.
Thank you for joining in and for all the support
Older video but good info , thanks 👍
Wow excellent presentation !! God Bless FF & Bob ....🇺🇸✊
Thank you for your super comments!!
Most informative gun video I have ever watched. 👍
Thank you!
Your videos are excellent.
Glad you like them! Thank you for the super comments
That was great! I now know now why God made me to do what I do and you to do the magic you do. I love your videos and watch one every time I think about doing it myself. I just used this one to convince a friend he needs to send his to a pro like the men of Fusion firearms.
Thank you for the super nice comments and support!!... We will have more video's coming.
Thanks for good educational videos.
Our pleasure! Thank you for the super omments
Thanks for all the videos showing us and clearing any misconceptions. I'm looking forward to the part of the barrel fitting hood to slide /breechface and what kind of clearance should be there
Thank you for your nice comments
Nice video! Answered questions I didn't know I had.
I was wondering if you've ever heard of the Schuemann (spelling?) Timing test and was wondering what the process of that was all about, what are they searching for in that test?
Yes, timing.... this is something that we can get into down the road. For most folks this is a non-issue. You generally have to work with what you have (Assembly wise). For most common gunsmiths and hobbyist, and using common good quality parts, timing is something that most will not have to worry about. Generally for most applications your build will fall into the tolerances for acceptable timing for 95%+ of all the shooters out there.
What Method Do You Use For Staking In The Barrel Link Pin Bob 🔫 Also The Newer Colt Series 70’s Have a Thinner Barrel Hood & Slide Dimensions So Would a Standard Match Fusion Barrel Still Work & Would I Just Need To Remove More Material on The Hood Sides Thanks In Advance Bob Love This Series Of Videos 😊
For staking I just use a prick punch and bench lock. On the Colts, Yes, I do not understand why they have changed the hood width to a non-standard width, but yes we just mill the standard hood to fit. But, that is a good point, thanks for bring that up.
@@fusionfirearms didn't Colt Gold Cups always have a thinner barrel hood?
Man, that was a lot of excellent information! Where did you learn all this from?
It would be nice if the video was a little brighter. Especially the work area.
Thank you for joining in. I have been building these for 40 years all day everyday ... Almost..
I have everything working as you described in the video but my slide overhangs my frame by about 3/16" when its pushed all the way forward unless I remove the barrel bushing and then the barrel tips down and the slide moves forward to match the frame. The other think I'm finding is although the the barrel does go into the locking lugs of the slide it only engages them about .020 deep which seems shallow to me. My hood does make contact with the slide so I'm wondering if I need to file that slightly to perhaps let the lugs engage deeper. ??????
Is it a Fusion barrel? If so you do not have to mess with the lug depth, they are correct. Put the barrel bushing back in and tap the back of the slide with a small dead blow hammer or Nylon tipped hammer and see if you can get the back to match-up. If it does you will know that you are close.. Then you will probably need to relieve the ID of the bushing some, Sounds like you are binding up and the barrel is "springing", which will generally means the bushing is too tight, or you have too much interference at the back of the hood. look for rub spots on the barrel. Do the "Tap with the hammer" a few cycles and then remove barrel to see if you have indication(rub marks) of a heavy interference. Then file slightly those areas. Also, I am assuming you are using a No.3 (.278") link? Also, check barrel feet with link and slide stop pin to insure you are seating nicely and not binding..... hope this helps.
@@fusionfirearms Thanks for getting back to me, appreciate the info. I went ahead and proceeded with fitting the barrel and after taking a small amount off the hood and a little off the side of the barrel at the bottom of the lug grooves I now have .038 lug engagement and the slide is just about flush with the frame when all the way forward
Hey Bob, at 24:10 in the this awesome video, you talk about the contact points. A little at the slide stop, the hood, and on the “157”. What is the “157” you’re speaking of. Really appreciate this and all your videos. And have purchased some of your 1911 parts. Keep up the good work….🇺🇸😎🙏
Sir, The .157" is from the back of the hood to the shoulder. It will be where you may pick-up barrel contact on the opposite side of the ejection port. The sidewall. The sidewall dimension developed from the breech face to that sidewall shelf.
Roger that … Appreciate the response.
I recently purchased one of your 9mm bull barrels. I went through the barrel fitting and tuning, How much wear on the barrel hood from the slide locking lugs is acceptable?
I don't have any issues to speak of, evening is working smoothly but I do see wear on the front of the barrel hood.
Wear on the barrel hood really does not matter. Depending on how hard your lock-up is, you will generally get wear on the hood. As long as you do not have functional issues or binding you are generally OK. If you link high with a longer link size, this can also cause barrel hood wear or marks.
Great video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
I fit a bull barrel and was dismayed when the round was too large to feed. A project for another time, perhaps
Learning experience, now you can think of a new exciting project.
Thanks for the video, Bob, Here is my issue: Hello. I have a Rock Island Compact size 1911 that I am trying to fit a new barrel to. The main issue I am having is that the slide will not go all the way forward into battery. The barrel type is a non ramped, bull type barrel. any help on what to look at would appreciated. Thanks, Dan🤠
Check and see if the barrel hood is hitting on the right or left side of the breach face. You may need more clearance. There are many things that can cause this. you can email in for tech help, rserva@outlook and send pictures of what you are dealing with.
My barrel slide lock up is good. Pistol functions nicely. I built a 4 inch bull barrel on an old ,but prestine, olympic arms slide and barrel, on an 80% frame. The blend is about 16th of an inch off. Slide shorter than frame. Is this cosmetic or barrel issue?
Does the disconnector work properly when you do a disconnector test?
The disconnected works as it should, I'm not certain what you mean by disconnected test.
Hello, nice video. Is there any reson to not check the rsult by GO / NOGO gauges?
You can, most people at home will not have gauges. You can use a new factory cartridge to check if you don't have gauges. Also, On Semi-Auto pistols, it is best to have a bit of headspace, I generally like to see +.003-.006, especially in defense pistols. This will allow for dirt, debris, high primers... etc... variables that may cause jamming.
Excellent tips. I have a 1911 series 70 and I got a new ss match barrel to change from a threaded barrel. The problem is the slide will not go completely forward. Condition is no mag, assembled. I used a hone stone to take off some sharp edges but still the slide is hung up on the last 1/8". I have not tried to fire it. Any ideas?
Have you tried to see if the sides of the top of the barrel where it locks into the breechface are rubbing hard ??? Look for the grey spot.... use a file... also, is the extractor bumping the back of the barrel???
Great video series for the 1911. I have a question that I cannot get a straight answer to. I've asked several gunsmiths at local gunshops and got a few different answers.
Can you install a bull barrel on a Springfield 1911-A1 GI series slide? I've been told
NO
YES BUT it requires welding and machining
YES, by discarding bushing, fitting a reverse recoil plug with barrel support lug on it then fit it for correct lock up.
What's fact what's fiction?
Yes, you can, I would first check the Slide Bore ID and make sure it is about .700". Then fit new bull barrel and reverse plug style. Tune and test.... and off you go.... Lots of bad information out there, Always go to the Pro's at Fusion for the real answers.
@@fusionfirearms Thank you for the response and for sharing your knowledge.
Im having a problem getting my barrel to fit . The ramps are several thousands from being aligned I’m thinking I need a different link no to get the barrel To go backwards I’m using a no 4 links now.. what do you suggest ?
Watch this video first. ua-cam.com/video/CoxaLUs_28o/v-deo.html
👍 thanks for sharing
Thank you for joining in.
Does your Riptide series comes with bull barrel?
No, Bushing barrel, You can upgrade to a match bull barrel buy emailing customer services.
Just wondering because i saw some in stock at Budsgunshop(bushing not bull barrel)
How do you determine proper link length?
This is a long topic & a good question, thank you. I will get this on our list to do a video on this. It really depends on what you are starting with and there are several schools of though. We will do this vid on the next run of filming.
Where should I look to start if my barrel seems to lock in place with my slide but once I go to assemble the pistol, the muzzle of the barrel is aimed downward rubbing the slide. So much the barrel bushing won't fit around it. Thanks in advance.
The barrel will be locking up on an angle, this is normal. it is hard to tell without looking at it but it seems you have binding. 1) Look at your link size(maybe too high) and your barrel foot for excessive lock-up pressure with the slide stop pin. 2) I would look at the ID of the bushing and OD of the barrel, and you probably need ID bushing clearance added. I don't know what you are totally dealing with but I would also look at interference at the barrel bed and the clearance angle on the front of the barrel bed.
@@fusionfirearms after watching your videos and learning the terminology, I read the instructions again that came with the ed brown barrel. Apparently I had to file away some of the recess in the barrel locking lug. It was kinda odd because you could see where one of the recessed cuts in the lugs was not as long around the barrel on both sides like the other was. Once filed to about equal lengths and depths, it seemed to lock into battery. Thanks for the advice!
how much would it cost for you guys to fit a new barrel and slide onto a gun?
also is it possible to put something like a 6" barrel and slide on a gun like a RIA Standard CS?
email customer service
@@fusionfirearms thanks
Thank you
You're welcome, we try to do our best...:)
I just noticed my barrel link is cracked, any idea what could cause this?
Hard to tell without looking at it. probably heat-treatment of a misfit when setup.
Any tips for a slide being very hard to rack occasionally?
Hard to say without looking at it. check it for interference's, such as rubbing the ejector. is this loaded or unloaded??? extractor binding on back of barrel There are many variables, this is a good topic to do a video on. We will put it on the list.
@@fusionfirearms no ejector installed and unloaded
Very informative you need some lights
Yes we do, working on it
Fitting parts without confirming function before it leaves your shop? Because tuning is a seperate job from fitting? Damn that’s extremely disappointing
Don't know what you are talking about. We always test fire all full pistol assemblies before they leave the shop.
You repeat yourself a LOT.
I want to make sure you get it...
And it seems like you got it....:)
Isn't this techno vikings theme?