Omg it looks like actual metal. Even the scorch marks on the barrel. And oil paint is an interesting choice and you would use oil to clean and keep the weapon lubricated.
It's little tips like oil paints on unclear coated lacquer that make the world's a difference when it comes to learning. The time and money spent to learn something like that and pass on is like gold. Thanks bill
+1 on the "don't clear coat". Oil paints can be 'dry' to the touch, but still have a lot of 'drying' left to do. Since they are actually oxidizing the oil, blocking them off from air is superbad and can even cause thicker films of oil paints to slough off in big slabs because the top layer is 'dry' and the bottom is still slippy months or even years later.
Excellent, as usual. As mentioned in your last weathering video, I love those oils. Any plans to do a video just on sealing? I like to seal as much as I can and have had a lot of wins, loses and most notably learning. I recently read about using automotive clear coats to preserve and even enhance metallic paints. So, I'm looking forward to giving that a try. Sealing rub and buff was always a challenge, but learned to use different coatings to change, preserve and even enhance the beauty of that medium. Finally, have you worked with epoxy paints before? I'm interested in trying an epoxy spray on a piece I'm working on to see if it can emulate the baked-on coating commonly found on real firearms.
Also, like others I actually like the effect of your "accident" on the handle, as it looks like the finish on the metal is getting "stained" by your grimy rebel hands.
I love to see you do a weapons crate done in a sci-fi style with factory finish weapons as if you were stealing them. You could use lots of foam crafting and 3-D printing.
That is why shoe polish is always great too to weather a props. Takes longue time to dry too, and should be eventually sealed if not staying in a "hole". Regarding the handle where paint went away, I think it looks really cool with the black like that. It looks like the metal is oxidise naturally there as the fingers and their acids oxydized that spot particularly ;) Thank you for the idea of oil paint thus, I will try very soon ! :)
You can add a quick dry medium, sometimes called alkyd. Water mix able oil lines should all have some form of quick dry medium for its paints. That will shorten the drying time, still days but not weeks. That timing is for regular oil painting on canvas, which is what I do. Also depends on climate -things dry faster in Arizona or even in winter. With a non absorbent finish, it may take longer. Sometimes we put our canvases in our cars in summer out of direct sun and bam, pretty dry in a day or so. But don't let it get too hot, things might melt depending on construction materials. Oil paint dries by oxydation-exposure to air, so I am doubtful about using a heat gun, plus don't want to compromise the integrity of oil film with too much heat during drying phase. I'm kind of wondering if your paints stripped the enamels because they are water mixables, which are modified with a soap like substance to make it water mixable. Regular oils (high end, not student grade) only have a drying oil (usually linseed or walnut or safflower) and pigment. Anyway, what you are doing is working for you, but I just thought I would share the info.
Perfect timing on this. I'm working on a blaster from that 80s TV miniseries V and was a bit stymied on how to age it as it is almost all black in color. The props from the show weren't shown to be aged at all, but I think it would give some dimension to it. So, not accurate, I guess, but still cool.
Dude! My Mom is artist and she said there is stuff that you can put in oil paints so they dry fast, speed of drying depends on how much stuff you put. Google translator says it's called siccative.
Thanks! I don't usually use water, so I'm not sure. I have heard you can put a dollop of oil paint on a piece of cardboard and let it sit for an hour to leach out some of the oil to improve the drying time, but I haven't tried it myself.
i think the place on the grip where the oil stripped off the silver actually works in this case, but can definately sea why you would need to be carefull
Bill, I have to say, I heard "a week or two to dry" and then my inner child just went "sigh" and went to do something more instantly gratifying. My responsible adult heard "you have hours to work with this" and "nice and calm and slow". He stayed for the whole video. Good stuff and very subtle but effective process.
Another brilliant video Bill, a masterclass in weathering metal. I have another T shirt idea for you, see Ted's comment to find out what it is, you'll like this one!
Hey Bill, how well do these paints adhere to aluminum? I know some paints work great over a clearcoat or on plastic, but are useless on aluminum lightsaber hilts.
SO Ted is the Bob Ross of Foam and you are the Bob Ross of Oil Paints ... but then what is Bob Ross the Bob Ross of? In any case, that blaster looks freakin awesome!!
Hey Bill, i know other people use shoe polish to do the weathering, is it a viable alternative? What are the pros and cons of using polish instead of oil paints?
Hey I wanted to know but I love your videos and once I saw this channel my inner builder started using PVC and cardboard and now I have stepped up to foam and other techniques of armor and foam weapons. I use some of your ideas and teds and together I can do some and its fun. but you like destiny I do to but I was wondering maybe can you do halo theme armor its the project I've wanted to do since I got first halo game 6 years ago I got reach and thought " I want a set of armor like that and I've tried and tried but I think you can get more attention of viewers if you incorporate halo into your sci-fi armor and weapons not saying you have to but I would love like one tutorial on halo armor. #notificationsquad
And here we'll put a happy little grease stain. And everybody needs a friend, so lets put another one right next to him. Remember, Han didn't shoot first, Greedo just had a happy little accident.
When I was visiting art school, my teacher said that water mixable oil paints combine the downsides of classic oil paints with the downsides of acrylics. Might be something only for painting, but maybe you should at least once try just classic oil colours.
Yeah oil has a LONG dry time. Here's a handy article that talks about the different drying times for different colors so you can prepare in advance: www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/tips-and-techniques/oil-colour/understanding-the-drying-times-for-oil-colour-us There may also be some useful tips there for faster drying times. (We don't always wait the full time for it to dry either)
Omg it looks like actual metal. Even the scorch marks on the barrel. And oil paint is an interesting choice and you would use oil to clean and keep the weapon lubricated.
Yes! Aging with oil paints. Thanks Bill.
An excellent video from Bill and you today Ted, so that must make it Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure in ageing, your props that is!
Agreed. I just bought some oil paints on Saturday just for weathering, so cool that this vid is here. Great timing.
It's little tips like oil paints on unclear coated lacquer that make the world's a difference when it comes to learning. The time and money spent to learn something like that and pass on is like gold. Thanks bill
You're welcome!
Hey the part that you missed with the sealer on the pistol grip on camera actually looks weathered and worn really well. I like it
Really good tutorial. You are the Bob Ross of prop building.
HA! I like that. =)
Just discovered this video. Thank you for sharing a different option than just acrylics. Love this effect AND the long work time!
Bill, I think that final wear mark on the grip -- where the clear coat wasn't applied -- actually makes it look more real.
Yeaa bob-rossin' it up! Happy little blaster..
Great tutorial Bill. I used oils on my dads car model, worked really well but yes, takes FOREVER to dry.
Splendid!
Totally doing this for my Glie-44 :) Thank you!
The Bob Ross of blasters! LOL
I'll take it!
I'm loving the effect the oil paints give! I'll have to try this when I do some Star Wars nerf gun repaints :D
That's a great idea.
Yeah, painting oil over un protected lacquer paint had the aging effect, except it aged me, not the prop.
Brilliant, thank you for these!
+1 on the "don't clear coat". Oil paints can be 'dry' to the touch, but still have a lot of 'drying' left to do. Since they are actually oxidizing the oil, blocking them off from air is superbad and can even cause thicker films of oil paints to slough off in big slabs because the top layer is 'dry' and the bottom is still slippy months or even years later.
Excellent, as usual. As mentioned in your last weathering video, I love those oils.
Any plans to do a video just on sealing? I like to seal as much as I can and have had a lot of wins, loses and most notably learning. I recently read about using automotive clear coats to preserve and even enhance metallic paints. So, I'm looking forward to giving that a try.
Sealing rub and buff was always a challenge, but learned to use different coatings to change, preserve and even enhance the beauty of that medium.
Finally, have you worked with epoxy paints before? I'm interested in trying an epoxy spray on a piece I'm working on to see if it can emulate the baked-on coating commonly found on real firearms.
Also, like others I actually like the effect of your "accident" on the handle, as it looks like the finish on the metal is getting "stained" by your grimy rebel hands.
I'll think about doing a sealing video when I learn more about it myself. I have not tried epoxy paints.
Looks cool, have you done anything about the way the muzzle looks kind of heat stained? i'd love to see how to do that!
I covered that in my Star-Lord blaster repaint video: ua-cam.com/video/wj9Fie5mkIo/v-deo.html
I love to see you do a weapons crate done in a sci-fi style with factory finish weapons as if you were stealing them. You could use lots of foam crafting and 3-D printing.
That is why shoe polish is always great too to weather a props. Takes longue time to dry too, and should be eventually sealed if not staying in a "hole".
Regarding the handle where paint went away, I think it looks really cool with the black like that. It looks like the metal is oxidise naturally there as the fingers and their acids oxydized that spot particularly ;)
Thank you for the idea of oil paint thus, I will try very soon ! :)
You can add a quick dry medium, sometimes called alkyd. Water mix able oil lines should all have some form of quick dry medium for its paints. That will shorten the drying time, still days but not weeks. That timing is for regular oil painting on canvas, which is what I do. Also depends on climate -things dry faster in Arizona or even in winter. With a non absorbent finish, it may take longer. Sometimes we put our canvases in our cars in summer out of direct sun and bam, pretty dry in a day or so. But don't let it get too hot, things might melt depending on construction materials. Oil paint dries by oxydation-exposure to air, so I am doubtful about using a heat gun, plus don't want to compromise the integrity of oil film with too much heat during drying phase. I'm kind of wondering if your paints stripped the enamels because they are water mixables, which are modified with a soap like substance to make it water mixable. Regular oils (high end, not student grade) only have a drying oil (usually linseed or walnut or safflower) and pigment. Anyway, what you are doing is working for you, but I just thought I would share the info.
Thanks for sharing. =)
Looks great!
You can get oil paint mediums that will speed up the drying time, eg liquin
I did not know that, thanks!
Perfect timing on this. I'm working on a blaster from that 80s TV miniseries V and was a bit stymied on how to age it as it is almost all black in color. The props from the show weren't shown to be aged at all, but I think it would give some dimension to it. So, not accurate, I guess, but still cool.
Great thinking!
Thanks for the video Bill! Not too useful for me atm but very much appreciated for if I do
Good job
Dude! My Mom is artist and she said there is stuff that you can put in oil paints so they dry fast, speed of drying depends on how much stuff you put. Google translator says it's called siccative.
That's fantastic, thanks for sharing!
You and Evil Ted are on the same page with your videos today. I liked Ted's tip of using olive oil to thin
Well we're just a couple of clever dudes, aren't we? =D
+10 for the Emperors New Groove Reference!
BOOM BABY!
This is still one of my favorite builds!Q: Do you find the dry time shorter by using more water? Thanks!
Thanks! I don't usually use water, so I'm not sure. I have heard you can put a dollop of oil paint on a piece of cardboard and let it sit for an hour to leach out some of the oil to improve the drying time, but I haven't tried it myself.
i think the place on the grip where the oil stripped off the silver actually works in this case, but can definately sea why you would need to be carefull
Bill, I have to say, I heard "a week or two to dry" and then my inner child just went "sigh" and went to do something more instantly gratifying. My responsible adult heard "you have hours to work with this" and "nice and calm and slow". He stayed for the whole video. Good stuff and very subtle but effective process.
I've also been told that there are additives that will speed up the drying time with oil paints. Your inner child shall be appeased. =D
Another brilliant video Bill, a masterclass in weathering metal. I have another T shirt idea for you, see Ted's comment to find out what it is, you'll like this one!
Thanks Rob!
Does it take a week to dry due to the northwest fantastic weather. Look forward to Bob Rossing in the future.
HA! No, our weather has little effect on the drying time. =)
It was fortunate that you missed the spot on the handle to educate us on how that reacts. A "Happy Little Accident"
Oh yeah, how clever of me! HA! =D
The Bob Ross is strong with you on this one Bill.
Just a happy little space gun.
thanks a lot, hopefully this will help with my future projects :)
Hey Bill, how well do these paints adhere to aluminum? I know some paints work great over a clearcoat or on plastic, but are useless on aluminum lightsaber hilts.
I don't think it would adhere well to metal, but for weathering that's OK. The low spots won't have your hands wearing on them.
SO Ted is the Bob Ross of Foam and you are the Bob Ross of Oil Paints ... but then what is Bob Ross the Bob Ross of? In any case, that blaster looks freakin awesome!!
Thanks so much!
Do acrylic weathering paints strip off the Alclad lacquer layer in the same way the oil paints do when there is no clear coat?
Acrylics usually don't
Hey Bill, i know other people use shoe polish to do the weathering, is it a viable alternative? What are the pros and cons of using polish instead of oil paints?
I'm not exactly sure what's in the shoe polish and I've never used it for weathering. Looks neat though!
i'll give a a try then, i'm modding a nerf hammershot :D, Thanks!
Bob Ross vibe yes I definitely get that!!
Also been enjoying these recent videos!
Thanks! =D
A little bit more of an expensive weathering? Or is it about the same as acrylics? Anyway, nice informative video!
The cost difference is negligible. The brand you buy of either will make a bigger difference in cost overall.
do you have a video on how to make Tempering of metal paint/surfaces.
I did some of that on my Star-Lord blaster: ua-cam.com/video/wj9Fie5mkIo/v-deo.html
Hey I wanted to know but I love your videos and once I saw this channel my inner builder started using PVC and cardboard and now I have stepped up to foam and other techniques of armor and foam weapons. I use some of your ideas and teds and together I can do some and its fun. but you like destiny I do to but I was wondering maybe can you do halo theme armor its the project I've wanted to do since I got first halo game 6 years ago I got reach and thought " I want a set of armor like that and I've tried and tried but I think you can get more attention of viewers if you incorporate halo into your sci-fi armor and weapons not saying you have to but I would love like one tutorial on halo armor. #notificationsquad
I love that prop! We should trade one day :) well weathered Bill!
Hey man, I'm down for a trade! =D
Did you cover the bluing of the barrel tip?
That's covered in the original Rey Blaster video.
just how many ray blasters do u have
Just the one, for now.
The next Bill'd
And here we'll put a happy little grease stain. And everybody needs a friend, so lets put another one right next to him. Remember, Han didn't shoot first, Greedo just had a happy little accident.
HAA!
i used oil paint today and didnt knew about the dry time. and i tought the paint wasnt good so i wipe it off. but luckily the finish was awesome
It looks SO good but yeah, it takes a WHILE
Where is the 250k group build?!
I'm working on it. I'll have an update soon.
hey you should do some monster hunter world props
Spread the shmoo!
When I was visiting art school, my teacher said that water mixable oil paints combine the downsides of classic oil paints with the downsides of acrylics. Might be something only for painting, but maybe you should at least once try just classic oil colours.
That's a good idea.
Tried using oil paint to make a pair of rubber boots look like leather. It worked, but took 3 weeks to dry.
Yeah oil has a LONG dry time. Here's a handy article that talks about the different drying times for different colors so you can prepare in advance: www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/tips-and-techniques/oil-colour/understanding-the-drying-times-for-oil-colour-us
There may also be some useful tips there for faster drying times. (We don't always wait the full time for it to dry either)
*Beat the devil out of it'*i
Doruk DD 😂😂😂
"Happy little blasters"
dunno, the spot where the oil paint stripped the paint almost makes it look worn in its own way
Lol's to the Bob Ross reference
Why not put it in heat ,the oven will work,just like autobody
epic paintwork as always. shame the blasters such a lazy piece of prop design imo, a broomhandle does not a starwars weapon make hmmmm..
I do not dig the "diarrhea grip" . Looks like it got into nasty places...
The galaxy can be a nasty place. =)
Full of very attractive ... black holes