I'm so glad I was patient and watched the entire video before posting this comment. I'm sure some other experienced reloaders were aghast when you stuck a lube covered swab in the case neck. You redeemed yourself greatly when you said you cleared that out with a dry swab. I use the dry mica lube so I don't have the extra step. I enjoy your videos greatly and keep them coming.
I've been using it for years. I've never had an issue with it. Like the wax lubes it lasts for a really long time and wipes away cleanly and easily. Midway sells a tray with multiple brushes that I mounted to a scrap piece of 2x4. I don't even clamp it down. It's cheap to boot!
My father and brother both got set up for cleaning brass with stainless steel pins in a tumbler and they love it. My dad used the walnut hulls for years and he is so glad he switched over. also the pins will clean the primer pockets for you :-)
I have used stainless steel media in a rock tumbler for 5 years now. It cleans the primer pockets well and the inside of the brass. No more dust inside the cases and a clean, shiny piece of brass at the end.
Great video. Purchased the Iron press for working up 270AR (wildcat) caliber. Your video really helps me reload my first wildcat with no case gage. I'm really liking the Iron press, especially the primer feed.
Great video, just got to Ruger Precision rifles in Creedmoor so now the work begins/pleasure! Your videos are very informative and I hope some of these guys that think you're doing things different than they will realize it's the beginning. I have shot as a master pistol competitor and I have loaded probably 200000 rounds over the last 40 years plus always with Precision in mind. They been a few times or I could not edged out a tiny bit more precision usually temperature related to the powder / primer I am sure you know how that goes. Thank you for the patience for these others one day they'll learn the more you learn the more you learn you don't know. If you stop increasing your knowledge I guess you're just satisfied. There nothing wrong with that but it's fun to max out your ability, your ammo, your weapon/gun. Who knows you might find a little wisdom. Thanks again keep up these great videos please! Have a great New Year!
When doing bulk I just take a glove and lightly lube it, then start grabbing/mixing cases in the box. The necks I lube with nylon bore brush, taking multiple rounds (preferably before lubing the outside) to my hand and using brush in and out.
Awesome - very relevant for me as I’m very interested in loading my own 6.5 Creedmoor rounds once primers become available. I’m curious about the MSRP of all the equipment featured (e.g. press, calipers, scale, powder dispenser, etc...) as I would be starting with nothing.
Just another mans system some of you might want to try. I use a home made case lube that I spray on my cases, the necks get some lube in them also for ease of sizing, you can use Hornady one shot also. I first do a quick tumble in corn cob media, then spray, let set and resize, then back in the tumbler for cleaning and lube removal or I will put them in the ultrasonic cleaner to do the same thing. Much faster with the same results. I also noticed you started single loading, no way H4350 is going to throw an accurate charge out of a progressive. Another tip is to use the progressive and throw the powder charge from the scale, this way you can speed up the process and still have exact powder weights by weighing each load. Enjoying your vids Gavin. Good to learn and share a few tips.
I liked your videos. I found it interesting, that you are loading precision rifle ammunition and you don't scrape out the crud and fouling in your primer pockets. Since I'm load both the .243 and the .308 cartridges for F-class, I personally prefer to load all of my precision rifle ammo on a single-stage RCBS Rock Chucker press, and I weigh out each charge on an electronic Chargemaster scale. We also weigh our brass and bullets too. I'll even do this with my handgun hunting reloads as well. Maybe it might be overkill but this is my method and it works very well for me. Clean your primer pockets so your primers seat flush each and every time.
I love this series and learning. I am brand new to hand loading and purchased this press and Hornady's custom dies. After lubing the cases and inside of the neck, I'm having a lot of friction during the full-length sizing process. I'm reloading for 300 Win Mag and the downstroke on the press feels smooth with the case entering the die but lifting the handle back up to withdraw the case from the die takes some effort. Am I doing something wrong here or missing something obvious with the die set up? I followed the die instructions to a T and the decapping at 3/16" works perfectly. I haven't tried any other cartridge cases to see if other dies feel the same way. I don't have anyone I can ask so thanks in advance for any guidance!
Love your videos and instruction Gavin! One question - if I already have the Hornady AP what arguments could be made to also acquire this press? Do you find the ammo from a single stage to be superior to a progressive even if you reload one stage at a time?
I have 3 calibers, bolt action rifles, that will put 5 rds in 1 hole at 100 yrds. and hit anything I point them at out to their max range. The last tricks I used to get really picky were... 1) Clean and uniform primer pocket. 2) Trim case. 3) Weigh each case into lots of ten. 4) Weigh each projectile into lots of ten. 5) Neck size only (your doing that). 6) Always seat with OJV measurement. ( start with a .003 jump to the lands and work back for best group) 7) Use lite crimp ( just enough so it doesn't creep if it were in a magazine, for semi-auto I would use a medium crimp). 8) Use mag primers when every possible. 9) Precise powder charge. (your doing that)....... Now that you have spent 16 hours loading 40 rds or so... LOL... Weigh each finished round into lots of five. I have tried annealing the necks but it really didn't do anything so I just started neck sizing... oh.. and the lube. Spray on is best. You only have to get the shoulder and neck ID. One quick pass from one side of the block and then turn the block and repeat... very lite... Great videos Thanks
for match ammo for remy 700 r5 308 i just neck size whit my redding comp die so the case is camber sized works great and neck tension i measure the neck put my caliper on 0 and than measure again when the bullet is seated sorry for the bad english
Noticed that your powder tray weight wasn't the same everytime meaning your scale isn't rezeroing after each charge. Not a big deal but your charge weights will be off +or- a .1-.2 each load
Great video as always. I'm interested in adding a new single stage press in my reloading room. For my precision ammo for benchrest and PRS. Very interested in this press but can't find any reviews after being used for awhile. What's your thoughts of this press now? I'm also interested in the mec marksman and frankford arsenal m press. In your opinion witch one produces the most precise ammo?
Like your vid's and you're spot on about Dan out at Inline Fab. What caused that small keeper to jump out of the press while seating bullets? (6:07 in on the vid).
Interesting info love their primer dispenser. Im trying to fine tune my bench height.to cut down on back pain. Do you always stand to load? How tall are you and what is your bench height and height at the shell holder? Thanks
Just about to start reloading, I've read up and watched lots of videos on nearly all the single stage presses. Eventually I narrowed it down to this press and the Forster Coax. I saw two problems with the coax, namely removing the cartridge from the shell holder, it just didn't look slick and seemed to stick occasionally, probably a symptom of the once size fits all approach. The other issue was inserting the primer, the mechanism for doing it looks good but is looked awkward because the press handle seems to sweep right over the area that you are working in. So I've ordered the Hornady Iron Press as it seems to have most of the favourable features. I do question just using 2 bolts to attach it to the bench, in your video you can see the whole press rocking slightly. I would have thought a minimum of 3 bolts in a triangular configuration would have been more suitable. Thanks for producing this and all your videos, they have really helped me make and informed decision.
Hi Gavin, would this be as smooth and easy to load on as my lnl classic. Was looking at this and summit. Gonna use for my precision loads. Use my Dillon 550 for pistol. Thank you, you do a great job.
Great video series! I am looking at getting an Iron Press. My old RS2 press doesn't allow me to load 30-06 without feeding the bullet up into the die before setting it on the case mouth. I assume that the Iron Press has enough clearance for large case reloading. Also, I find that after sizing, I need to trim my rifle cases, at least a little anyway. You were able to just size, prime and load. I usually de-cap, clean in a wet tumbler, size, trim, then prime, all in separate processes.
What did you do with the little O-Ring on the smaller insert that holds the elliptical expander? There's a larger one that comes off easily, but a small one that is tight between the threads.
Hi Gavin, your videos are great. You mentioned that you were keen to see the accuracy difference of this system Vs the LNL AP progressive. Have you done that yet & if so, what were the results? Cheers.
+gavintube great video. What watch are you wearing? I tried pausing at a few points and couldn't get a good view of the dial. Looks like some kind of Pilot job. IWC Big Pilot perhaps?
Great series of videos. have you determine best bullet seating measurements, bullet, powder charge and type, and primer for 243 version of Ruger Precision Rifle. I am totally new to reloading and just enrolled in 600 shooting discipline. I need all the help I can get. Thank you very much.
Each rifle will have it's own "favorite recipe". The book loading data will get you in the ball park and then tweak from there. There are really 2 types of ammo. Factory and match will chamber and fire in any rifle of said caliber. Custom, more then likely, will only chamber and fire in the rifle it was loaded for. When you reload to factory specs you will get 5 to 7 loads per brass... I have gotten as much as 12 loads with an avg of 9 with my custom loads. If you are going to spray and pray, or are happy with 1" groups don't sweat it. At the start just have fun and learn the basics. As time goes on get more picky. I've been reloading ... wow.. for 50 yrs. My first press was a Lee Loader ... look it up you will be amazed... I still have one for 7.62x59 in my kit with components for 500 rds, - brass. Enjoy
would have liked to have seen the accuracy that the powder thrower would do just out of curiosity. . + or - how much from high to low thru 25 throws ..
That H4350 is great 6.5 CM powder, I don't think I'll ever use anything else. I use 42.5g for my 140 reloads although I find any load from 41.5 to 43.0 is good with my RPR.
Hi Gavin, thanks for sharing. Out of curiosity how does the auto prime system know when to prime and when not to, i.e. Only prime on sizing operation and not on seating op? Also, can you share how you load the primers into the auto prime?
Priming is done by pushing the control lever forward when the ram is down. Watch when he's resizing - you can see when he nudges the lever forward, forcing the ram to pull the cartridge down onto the primer. To not prime (i.e. during the seating process) you simple don't push the lever forward.
I am seeing very consistent .520 groups with my RPR using factory 140 EDL's. Prime 130 is giving me .7 groups. About to start loading the EDL 140's to see if I can get under .500.
I loaded 140 Grain winchester match BTHP and they take all the space in the pmag it came with maybe the metal mags will have a extra mm space inside. since they take so many mags I gotta find the one with the most space inside
It all depends on what your definition of "precision" is. I agree for benchrest, but don't perform the steps you outlined for other long-range shooting. The wind will play *much* more of a role than clean primer pockets :) My .02
Gavin, may I ask how you set up your resize die. You didn’t get into much detail in this video, hornady says insert until you feel resistance and then back off 1 full turn and adjust from there. I am not used to MG dies so I am having issues getting the casing to fall in my Lee Wilson gauge below the upper step. I have tried in every position in reverse from where i feel it have resistance when installing it. Also I am running a .288 bushing, any advice on installing the resize die to the right depth?
Really considering this press using lee breech lock but having consistency issues. The bushings would be a bunch of money to go from lee to hornady. What do you think?
You have very good, detailed videos, good job. Looking forward to more. Do you bother beburing the flash holes and primer depth in your initial brass prep?
+Hi its Me Thanks!!! No, I don't bother. Seems like you need to be deep into benchrest for that to make any difference. Just my opinion- primer pockets and flash holes are a hotly-debated topic :)
Gavin, I know you had to do some machining to be able to swap dies between your classic and ap press, have you checked to see if you can use those same dies in your iron press without having to adjust them?
I've been waiting for more info on the iron press. As far as I know, you are the only person with it on youtube....for now....can you do something a bit more in depth with this press?
Is it cheaper to load your own ammo say 9mm , And what are the advantages of loading your own as opposed to say buying online bulk ,Im retired and shoot alot and have alot of time on my hands ?
Arcturus Welding & Fabrication How much you save varies by caliber and load. Could be significant, could be nothing. Reloading let's you create ammo that's custom to your gun though, which could mean better accuracy.
Hi Gavin. I enjoy watching your videos ... very informative. I have the Gen 2 Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. Just curious on the case length. Are you trimming to the Hornady recommended length?
Rich- What I do is take the cartridge spec, and trim when the case length exceeds that dimension (case OAL) by .002" or more. Then, I trim to the OAL spec minus .020". That gives several firings before another trim is necessary.
curious how much runout the sizing die and seating die produce. cleaning primer pockets for the sake of cleanliness is a waste. uniforming has merit if youre using mil brass
I have a few question about the 6.5 creedmoor Important to Know * Shooting 0 - 800 yard * i have 2 kids Boys 12 and 14 that want to shoot * first time shooting rifles however I am rated by NRA as a Sharpshooter for handgun 1 - which caliber do you suggest .308 or 6.5 or 243 win 2 - Do you suggest also to start reloading ammo since the cost of ammo is expensive 3 - what scope competitive priced scope do you suggest
+Marvin Stuart Marvin- sounds like FUN! I would say go 243 Win because it's super-accurate, and very light on recoil- would make a great first impression. If barrel life is important, think about 6.5 Creedmoor. Both will do great to 800 yards!
These are match dies, and there are also some other great options like FORSTER, Redding, Whidden. When you get to benchrest, you may also want to look at the L.E. Wilson chamber type seater. If using FORSTER dies, they can hone out a FL sizer for the brass and bullet you are using (for precise neck sizing).
Thanks for the vids! I'm going to get a 6.5 creedmoor this week and I want to get into reloading, so my question is what is a good start up kit ? Thanks
If it's aligned with your budget, the Lock-N-Load Iron kit is great, see: ultimatereloader.com/2016/02/07/hornady-lock-n-load-iron-press-kit-unboxing-and-overview/
Hey, I am very interested in getting this kit. Did you tumble the brass with the fired primer still in the brass? Should I deprime, size, clean then prime?
Yes to tumbling with fired primers- here's what I did here: 1. Clean brass 2. Lube cases 3. Size-de-prime, then prime 4. Charge 5. Seat. 6. Wipe off lube.
+gavintoobe, GREAT videos!!! I was wondering who makes those (aluminum?) rails on your reloading bench and where did you get them? I'm guessing you just cut the grooves with a router?
Nice...! Can't wait to see the results..! How about the .243, seems like a couple videos back you had the .243 and the 6.5... You still shooting the 243 or was that a borrowed gun.?
Well, if it's match grade it's not nonsense gavin. :) Might as well go all the way my friend. Otherwise you've kind of wasted the extra effort you've already invested. Thanks for the video. I'm looking forward to using my new Iron press. Thumbs up and good shooting!
@@zeekerekes9563 brass is just the stuff connect everything, primer powder projectile. the thing matters to accuracy is the weight of podwer and the projectile
Hi Gavin Using the same die set but without the micrometer, I found that after I adjusted the die down to the exact GBTO. The die would wander and not reliably repeat the same depth. I got variations from 0.001-0.005" in the depth. I ended up having to back the die off for each round. And gradually work downward until I got the right length. Any idea what's going on. Thanks! Gary
I have a question I'm really interested in getting into long range shooting and mid range hunting if need be. I'm am very interested in the 6.5 creedmor. I'm looking at getting the ruger American predator in 6.5 creedmor. I'm wondering about optics. I'm looking at optics under 400$ but with adjustable MOA but with good glass and great zoom look at something that zooms up to at least 24. And I'm looking for 50mm. Open to any recommendations.
The Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24x50mm would be my suggestion based on your requirements. I have it on my Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor, and it's AWESOME for the price...
check out SWFA 10x42 tactical. They are $299! I have two of them and the tracking is second to non! I have one on my 308 and one on my 6.5 Creedmoor 10BA.
Athlon argos btr there I have one on my Ruger precision rifle and it's absolutely great there videos of it being compare to vortex and people actually liking it better retail is $380
might be a stupid question but do you save that much reloading over just buying if you take into account the amount of time that is spent doing all this? There must be some benefit since it's pretty common but this seems super time consuming. Is this true?
Reloading can help you fine tune your ammunition for a particular rifle (or even pistol). The savings depends on what you're reloading. I got into reloading because 44 Magnum ammunition is super-expensive, and I like to shoot it a lot. Try this: ultimatereloader.com/tools/reloading-costs-calculator/
I think you misunderstand neck tension a bit you will be .292 no matter the bushing you use. Neck tension is set by changing the bushing size. You take your .264 bullet plus your neck thickness which is .014 which will give you your .292 that you measured. With your .288 bushing you have .004 neck tension, not .001-.002 like you stated.
gavintoobe Ok thanks that would be awesome. There are many Swiss rifle owners like myself who have K11's or K31's, and the GP11 milsurp ammo is no longer being imported due to the fact that supplies in Switzerland are in short supply and they've decided to keep the rest of it for themselves, which I don't blame them for doing. Currently the only big manufacturer of 7.5x55 is Prvi (PPU) and there's a small company Graf & Sons that reloads small batches using mostly Hornady projectiles.
+PK289 Hey PK289- yes, it really all depends on your definition of "match grade". This is certainly not benchrest ammo, but I also know PRS competitors that load all of their match ammo on progressive presses. :)
Your information on neck tension is wrong. You can't check neck tension that way. You would first have to verify that neck thickness is the same. Then you would check it before putting the bullet in. Once the bullet is in, it doesn’t matter in the tension is different, it has to get wide enough for the bullet to fit in. If the neck thickness is the same, and tension is different, once you shove the bullet in it’s going to be the same measurement. You have to measure tension BEFORE you seat a bullet.
you'll never get match grade ammo with a digital scale. saw the scale float .3 grains after your first powder measure. use a beam scale, you will get way more consistent powder measures
+0.3 grains is perhaps 10-15 fps in velocity differential on the creedmoor (double that for an absolute difference of 0.6gr, +/-). As per your comment regarding digital scales, it a matter of budget. If you can afford a "good" digital scale (a scientific scale not "branded") you will achieve much higher accuracy than a balance. On the other-hand, between the economical alternatives, the balance/beam scale likely has greater accuracy due to the analog nature of the interpretation of the reading. Certainly better than branded scales.
I use one automatic scale take it off the scale and dump it on another digital scale and I've been able to achieve quarter inch MOA in six different 338 Lapua rifles. I have found that loading for temperature is one of the keys for that kind of accuracy. One person normally hunts in an environment of -5 to 25 degrees, another hunting environment when season temp is 105 to 95 degrees and the raffle is suppressed by military titanium AAC unit. I know it's the comment about lab grade scale that is the final scale digital I use and so far the automatic fill unit scale shows the same grain weight unless you have a smartphone in the room. I guess it don't have shielding we figured out he was getting text messages 8 or 10 in 20 minutes and I was going bonkers what is wrong with this scale and powder dump. I use a high boy shipping container for my reloading room three and a half inch double foil backed high-density insulation, wood studs, half inch sanded cabinet grade Birch plywood for paneling. If the doors are locked with the copper mesh seals that I put on the door it's pretty well EMP proof. I had one of the doors not shut completely and he thought he was having trouble with his phone but they was a signal even week and it affected the automatic scale and powder dump. So maybe the reason I'm getting such good results that match mylab scale is because I'm blocking the cell towers around. Yes I do keep the door shut. Just some food for thought for anyone loading just good hunting rounds on a automatic powder dump with a smartphone or two in the room beware. But I do like the redundant weight measurement and I lose very little time what I dump from one scale to the other then by the time I've dumped powder in the shell/case haha the automatic scale/powder dump has just finished. But these two guys are real shooters military equipment and friends who would really give me a hard time if I stumped my toe. For the one with the suppressor his use is way more serious so got to do my best.. a load for him three different climate/temperature groups. So far away Superior to the best they've been able to get. Says a lot how good we have it with the quality of products now. I feel like sending president Trump a thank you card now I can get my 8 pound cans of Varget, 4350, Etc. Being an old guy I miss the 20 pound cans.
Your scale is drifting around its zero. The proof is watching it go from 0.0 with an empty pan, to 140.8 after hitting 43.0gr, then to 0.0 and then to 140.7 after another 43.0gr. Typical of Hornady scales which aren't that accurate...one of the main reasons I sold my Hornady Auto Charge and upgraded to a RCBS Chargemaster
I don't Know who this guy is but his claim of loading Match grade ammo is about as far from the truth as can be. First Match ammo from a Hornady Lock-Load press and Hornady dies won't win many matches where I come from, don't believe me just as any match shooter and you'll here Foster or Redding. And I believe his statement concerning primer pockets shows how little this guy knows. As far as bushing sizing dies are a waste of money if you don't neck turn which is not mentioned. How about fire forming, annealing, neck sizing case triming, primer pocket uniforming, case mouth chamfer internal and external, bullet runout, case and bullet weigths powder lot numbers, etc. And who sits there trickler on their scale when weigthing powder charges. Maybe in ten years and a lot of study and range time will this guy know how to load Match grade ammo. Be careful there is a lot of bad info on loading out there.
Jeff- everyone has a different meaning when they use the term "match" - ultimately you have to use the tools/methods/processes that work for you based on your goals. I know a lot of "match" shooters that load all of their ammo on progressives and don't mess around with flash holes, etc. All I ask here is that you treat everyone with respect, including myself!
I am upgrading my press. I just purchased the Hornady only iron press! Keep up the great videos ! Awesome !
I'm so glad I was patient and watched the entire video before posting this comment. I'm sure some other experienced reloaders were aghast when you stuck a lube covered swab in the case neck. You redeemed yourself greatly when you said you cleared that out with a dry swab. I use the dry mica lube so I don't have the extra step. I enjoy your videos greatly and keep them coming.
+smoakngun Been wanting to try the mica lube- is it all that it's cracked up to be?
I've been using it for years. I've never had an issue with it. Like the wax lubes it lasts for a really long time and wipes away cleanly and easily. Midway sells a tray with multiple brushes that I mounted to a scrap piece of 2x4. I don't even clamp it down. It's cheap to boot!
My father and brother both got set up for cleaning brass with stainless steel pins in a tumbler and they love it. My dad used the walnut hulls for years and he is so glad he switched over. also the pins will clean the primer pockets for you :-)
+Mark Breidenbaugh I'm about to show the Frankford Arsenal we tumbling kit- stay tuned!
Great I look forward to it.
I have used stainless steel media in a rock tumbler for 5 years now. It cleans the primer pockets well and the inside of the brass. No more dust inside the cases and a clean, shiny piece of brass at the end.
Great video. Purchased the Iron press for working up 270AR (wildcat) caliber. Your video really helps me reload my first wildcat with no case gage. I'm really liking the Iron press, especially the primer feed.
Great! Congrats on taking steps into reloading Ed!
Great video, just got to Ruger Precision rifles in Creedmoor so now the work begins/pleasure! Your videos are very informative and I hope some of these guys that think you're doing things different than they will realize it's the beginning. I have shot as a master pistol competitor and I have loaded probably 200000 rounds over the last 40 years plus always with Precision in mind. They been a few times or I could not edged out a tiny bit more precision usually temperature related to the powder / primer I am sure you know how that goes. Thank you for the patience for these others one day they'll learn the more you learn the more you learn you don't know. If you stop increasing your knowledge I guess you're just satisfied. There nothing wrong with that but it's fun to max out your ability, your ammo, your weapon/gun. Who knows you might find a little wisdom. Thanks again keep up these great videos please! Have a great New Year!
I've been waiting for this video! Love the videos and setup, very helpful as a newer reloader.
+James Steinmetz Thanks James, that's what it's all about for me! (providing info to the community!)
When doing bulk I just take a glove and lightly lube it, then start grabbing/mixing cases in the box. The necks I lube with nylon bore brush, taking multiple rounds (preferably before lubing the outside) to my hand and using brush in and out.
Awesome - very relevant for me as I’m very interested in loading my own 6.5 Creedmoor rounds once primers become available. I’m curious about the MSRP of all the equipment featured (e.g. press, calipers, scale, powder dispenser, etc...) as I would be starting with nothing.
Just another mans system some of you might want to try. I use a home made case lube that I spray on my cases, the necks get some lube in them also for ease of sizing, you can use Hornady one shot also. I first do a quick tumble in corn cob media, then spray, let set and resize, then back in the tumbler for cleaning and lube removal or I will put them in the ultrasonic cleaner to do the same thing. Much faster with the same results. I also noticed you started single loading, no way H4350 is going to throw an accurate charge out of a progressive. Another tip is to use the progressive and throw the powder charge from the scale, this way you can speed up the process and still have exact powder weights by weighing each load. Enjoying your vids Gavin. Good to learn and share a few tips.
Looking at this and summit. Ideas on. Thank you Gavin
Great videos and enjoyed seeing u with 6.5 guys
Awesome, always good times with the 65 Guys!
I liked your videos. I found it interesting, that you are loading precision rifle ammunition and you don't scrape out the crud and fouling in your primer pockets. Since I'm load both the .243 and the .308 cartridges for F-class, I personally prefer to load all of my precision rifle ammo on a single-stage RCBS Rock Chucker press, and I weigh out each charge on an electronic Chargemaster scale. We also weigh our brass and bullets too. I'll even do this with my handgun hunting reloads as well. Maybe it might be overkill but this is my method and it works very well for me. Clean your primer pockets so your primers seat flush each and every time.
I love this series and learning. I am brand new to hand loading and purchased this press and Hornady's custom dies. After lubing the cases and inside of the neck, I'm having a lot of friction during the full-length sizing process. I'm reloading for 300 Win Mag and the downstroke on the press feels smooth with the case entering the die but lifting the handle back up to withdraw the case from the die takes some effort. Am I doing something wrong here or missing something obvious with the die set up? I followed the die instructions to a T and the decapping at 3/16" works perfectly. I haven't tried any other cartridge cases to see if other dies feel the same way. I don't have anyone I can ask so thanks in advance for any guidance!
Quality video again Gavin. Thanks
Love your videos and instruction Gavin! One question - if I already have the Hornady AP what arguments could be made to also acquire this press? Do you find the ammo from a single stage to be superior to a progressive even if you reload one stage at a time?
I have 3 calibers, bolt action rifles, that will put 5 rds in 1 hole at 100 yrds. and hit anything I point them at out to their max range. The last tricks I used to get really picky were... 1) Clean and uniform primer pocket. 2) Trim case. 3) Weigh each case into lots of ten. 4) Weigh each projectile into lots of ten. 5) Neck size only (your doing that). 6) Always seat with OJV measurement. ( start with a .003 jump to the lands and work back for best group) 7) Use lite crimp ( just enough so it doesn't creep if it were in a magazine, for semi-auto I would use a medium crimp). 8) Use mag primers when every possible. 9) Precise powder charge. (your doing that)....... Now that you have spent 16 hours loading 40 rds or so... LOL... Weigh each finished round into lots of five. I have tried annealing the necks but it really didn't do anything so I just started neck sizing... oh.. and the lube. Spray on is best. You only have to get the shoulder and neck ID. One quick pass from one side of the block and then turn the block and repeat... very lite... Great videos Thanks
for match ammo for remy 700 r5 308 i just neck size whit my redding comp die so the case is camber sized works great and neck tension i measure the neck put my caliper on 0 and than measure again when the bullet is seated sorry for the bad english
Noticed that your powder tray weight wasn't the same everytime meaning your scale isn't rezeroing after each charge. Not a big deal but your charge weights will be off +or- a .1-.2 each load
Great video as always. I'm interested in adding a new single stage press in my reloading room. For my precision ammo for benchrest and PRS. Very interested in this press but can't find any reviews after being used for awhile. What's your thoughts of this press now? I'm also interested in the mec marksman and frankford arsenal m press. In your opinion witch one produces the most precise ammo?
Thank you for sharing this video, but could you share more details for example how you install primers?
Thanks.
Like your vid's and you're spot on about Dan out at Inline Fab. What caused that small keeper to jump out of the press while seating bullets? (6:07 in on the vid).
love all your videos ! keep up the great work.
+N Olesen Thanks!
Interesting info love their primer dispenser. Im trying to fine tune my bench height.to cut down on back pain. Do you always stand to load? How tall are you and what is your bench height and height at the shell holder? Thanks
Enjoyed your video. When using a collar don't you have to turn the case necks to get equal pressure? Please let me know. Thanks, Hank
Just about to start reloading, I've read up and watched lots of videos on nearly all the single stage presses. Eventually I narrowed it down to this press and the Forster Coax. I saw two problems with the coax, namely removing the cartridge from the shell holder, it just didn't look slick and seemed to stick occasionally, probably a symptom of the once size fits all approach. The other issue was inserting the primer, the mechanism for doing it looks good but is looked awkward because the press handle seems to sweep right over the area that you are working in. So I've ordered the Hornady Iron Press as it seems to have most of the favourable features. I do question just using 2 bolts to attach it to the bench, in your video you can see the whole press rocking slightly. I would have thought a minimum of 3 bolts in a triangular configuration would have been more suitable. Thanks for producing this and all your videos, they have really helped me make and informed decision.
Did you ever get the Hornady Lock-N-Load Iron press? Curious if it worked out for you or not, or what you ultimately ended up going with?
Very nice video, some great info here -Joe
Hi Gavin, would this be as smooth and easy to load on as my lnl classic. Was looking at this and summit. Gonna use for my precision loads. Use my Dillon 550 for pistol. Thank you, you do a great job.
I would like to hear how the Hornady Bushing die compared to the Redding Competition S Bushing die. Enjoyed the vid.
Have you thought about using a mandrel and losing the expander ball? 6.5 guys video had it and I'm trying with star line sr brass
Great video series!
I am looking at getting an Iron Press. My old RS2 press doesn't allow me to load 30-06 without feeding the bullet up into the die before setting it on the case mouth. I assume that the Iron Press has enough clearance for large case reloading.
Also, I find that after sizing, I need to trim my rifle cases, at least a little anyway. You were able to just size, prime and load. I usually de-cap, clean in a wet tumbler, size, trim, then prime, all in separate processes.
I haven't tried 30-06 yet on it, but should be straight up with no bullet tipping needed. Yes, you always need to check for trimming after sizing.
What did you do with the little O-Ring on the smaller insert that holds the elliptical expander? There's a larger one that comes off easily, but a small one that is tight between the threads.
Hi Gavin, your videos are great. You mentioned that you were keen to see the accuracy difference of this system Vs the LNL AP progressive. Have you done that yet & if so, what were the results? Cheers.
+gavintube great video. What watch are you wearing? I tried pausing at a few points and couldn't get a good view of the dial. Looks like some kind of Pilot job. IWC Big Pilot perhaps?
Nice work mate.
I would have liked to see a measurement of the loaded cartridge to Ogive and OAL.
Great series of videos. have you determine best bullet seating measurements, bullet, powder charge and type, and primer for 243 version of Ruger Precision Rifle. I am totally new to reloading and just enrolled in 600 shooting discipline. I need all the help I can get. Thank you very much.
Each rifle will have it's own "favorite recipe". The book loading data will get you in the ball park and then tweak from there. There are really 2 types of ammo. Factory and match will chamber and fire in any rifle of said caliber. Custom, more then likely, will only chamber and fire in the rifle it was loaded for. When you reload to factory specs you will get 5 to 7 loads per brass... I have gotten as much as 12 loads with an avg of 9 with my custom loads. If you are going to spray and pray, or are happy with 1" groups don't sweat it. At the start just have fun and learn the basics. As time goes on get more picky. I've been reloading ... wow.. for 50 yrs. My first press was a Lee Loader ... look it up you will be amazed... I still have one for 7.62x59 in my kit with components for 500 rds, - brass. Enjoy
would have liked to have seen the accuracy that the powder thrower would do just out of curiosity. . + or - how much from high to low thru 25 throws ..
That H4350 is great 6.5 CM powder, I don't think I'll ever use anything else. I use 42.5g for my 140 reloads although I find any load from 41.5 to 43.0 is good with my RPR.
Hi Gavin, thanks for sharing. Out of curiosity how does the auto prime system know when to prime and when not to, i.e. Only prime on sizing operation and not on seating op? Also, can you share how you load the primers into the auto prime?
Priming is done by pushing the control lever forward when the ram is down. Watch when he's resizing - you can see when he nudges the lever forward, forcing the ram to pull the cartridge down onto the primer. To not prime (i.e. during the seating process) you simple don't push the lever forward.
Any chance you can do a video with this same press but with the lee precision 4 die set. New to reloading and its kinda confusing
you didn't have to trim the brass after sizing? How does that work if you needed to trim since you already primed them at the same time?
What was the OAL on all the ammo? How consistent was it? Was there any adjustments throughout the bullet press step?
Why aren't you shooting the 140 grain ELD? For a long range round like the 6.5 Creedmore it would seem more suitable for the 140.
Good call Vernon- I'm thinking to do more with ELD/ELD-X in this coming year!
Roger that. You will love the change for sure. Accuracy is unreal and your able to extend those shots out past a mile. Best of luck, flea
I am seeing very consistent .520 groups with my RPR using factory 140 EDL's. Prime 130 is giving me .7 groups. About to start loading the EDL 140's to see if I can get under .500.
Yes, much better choice sir, best of luck!
I loaded 140 Grain winchester match BTHP and they take all the space in the pmag it came with maybe the metal mags will have a extra mm space inside. since they take so many mags I gotta find the one with the most space inside
If you are doing precession loading. You need to clean the primer pocket true the primer pockets, and true the the flash port.
It all depends on what your definition of "precision" is. I agree for benchrest, but don't perform the steps you outlined for other long-range shooting. The wind will play *much* more of a role than clean primer pockets :) My .02
I have to ask u 120 gr GMX bullet 43.1 g. Of H4350 would that a good Amount a powder 6.5 creedmoor 24" howa Barrel HCR ?
Gavin, may I ask how you set up your resize die. You didn’t get into much detail in this video, hornady says insert until you feel resistance and then back off 1 full turn and adjust from there. I am not used to MG dies so I am having issues getting the casing to fall in my Lee Wilson gauge below the upper step. I have tried in every position in reverse from where i feel it have resistance when installing it. Also I am running a .288 bushing, any advice on installing the resize die to the right depth?
Sorry, I meant to say CBTO not GBTO.
Really considering this press using lee breech lock but having consistency issues. The bushings would be a bunch of money to go from lee to hornady. What do you think?
I would go with the Hornady system. It's worked a lot better for me.
You have very good, detailed videos, good job. Looking forward to more. Do you bother beburing the flash holes and primer depth in your initial brass prep?
+Hi its Me Thanks!!! No, I don't bother. Seems like you need to be deep into benchrest for that to make any difference. Just my opinion- primer pockets and flash holes are a hotly-debated topic :)
Gavin, I know you had to do some machining to be able to swap dies between your classic and ap press, have you checked to see if you can use those same dies in your iron press without having to adjust them?
I haven't looked at that yet- plus I currently have two LNL AP presses, need to do some measuring!
I've been waiting for more info on the iron press. As far as I know, you are the only person with it on youtube....for now....can you do something a bit more in depth with this press?
What is the effort to full length size with the Iron press vs. the classic press? Any easier with the Iron?
Is it cheaper to load your own ammo say 9mm , And what are the advantages of loading your own as opposed to say buying online bulk ,Im retired and shoot alot and have alot of time on my hands ?
Arcturus Welding & Fabrication How much you save varies by caliber and load. Could be significant, could be nothing. Reloading let's you create ammo that's custom to your gun though, which could mean better accuracy.
HuskyKMA Thanks appreciate it
Hi Gavin. I enjoy watching your videos ... very informative. I have the Gen 2 Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. Just curious on the case length. Are you trimming to the Hornady recommended length?
Rich- What I do is take the cartridge spec, and trim when the case length exceeds that dimension (case OAL) by .002" or more. Then, I trim to the OAL spec minus .020". That gives several firings before another trim is necessary.
curious how much runout the sizing die and seating die produce.
cleaning primer pockets for the sake of cleanliness is a waste. uniforming has merit if youre using mil brass
+Shooter7point62 Yes, I don't have my gage with my (it's up at the UR outpost) - will be curious to measure!
Just bought a Ruger Precision in 6.5Creedmoor..... researched scopes, I've chosen a Leupold VX-6 7x42 56mm with a 34mm tube.
WOW....I know that scope cost more then the rifle......but nice.
How was the ES and SD from the ammo? Decent even with throwing charges?
I have a few question about the 6.5 creedmoor
Important to Know
* Shooting 0 - 800 yard
* i have 2 kids Boys 12 and 14 that want to shoot
* first time shooting rifles however I am rated by NRA as a Sharpshooter for handgun
1 - which caliber do you suggest .308 or 6.5 or 243 win
2 - Do you suggest also to start reloading ammo since the cost of ammo is expensive
3 - what scope competitive priced scope do you suggest
+Marvin Stuart Marvin- sounds like FUN! I would say go 243 Win because it's super-accurate, and very light on recoil- would make a great first impression. If barrel life is important, think about 6.5 Creedmoor. Both will do great to 800 yards!
+gavintoobe And for scopes, the Vortex Viper 6-24x50mm has been awesome and is priced in the value category.
Hi Gavin, Will these dies work for bench rest loads. Thank you for the video
These are match dies, and there are also some other great options like FORSTER, Redding, Whidden. When you get to benchrest, you may also want to look at the L.E. Wilson chamber type seater. If using FORSTER dies, they can hone out a FL sizer for the brass and bullet you are using (for precise neck sizing).
Thanks for the vids! I'm going to get a 6.5 creedmoor this week and I want to get into reloading, so my question is what is a good start up kit ? Thanks
If it's aligned with your budget, the Lock-N-Load Iron kit is great, see: ultimatereloader.com/2016/02/07/hornady-lock-n-load-iron-press-kit-unboxing-and-overview/
Great videos thx for the info and cool videos
Hey, I am very interested in getting this kit. Did you tumble the brass with the fired primer still in the brass? Should I deprime, size, clean then prime?
Yes to tumbling with fired primers- here's what I did here: 1. Clean brass 2. Lube cases 3. Size-de-prime, then prime 4. Charge 5. Seat. 6. Wipe off lube.
thanks, trying to get started in reloading and there is so much to learn.
doesn't Hornady one shot dry? you wouldn't have to q tip the case necks with it would you?
Great video as always. Are you going to compare acuracy from loading to factory size spec to fire formed and just neck sizing?
+Jordan Coward Jordan- yes, I'll be comparing accuracy, and will be neck-only sizing as well...
With the recent release of the RPR in 6mm creedmoor. What modifications if any will you need to reload 6mm with this press kit?
Nothing special for 6.5 Creedmoor :)
+gavintoobe, GREAT videos!!! I was wondering who makes those (aluminum?) rails on your reloading bench and where did you get them? I'm guessing you just cut the grooves with a router?
I got them from Peachtree Woodworking, and we used a table saw with dado blade to cut notches if memory serves me correctly! :)
+gavintoobe thanks! What are they called if I were to look it up online?
It would be something like this: www.ttrackusa.com/track_%20systems.htm
Nice...! Can't wait to see the results..! How about the .243, seems like a couple videos back you had the .243 and the 6.5... You still shooting the 243 or was that a borrowed gun.?
+Vaughn Precision Yes! Still have the 243 and plan to load on the Hornady Lock-N-Load Iron for it!
+gavintoobe looks like you are in Washington state. I'd like to contact you, if that's possible.
+Vaughn Precision Absolutely. My contact info is available on my UA-cam channel profile here: ua-cam.com/users/gavintoobeabout
Well, if it's match grade it's not nonsense gavin. :) Might as well go all the way my friend. Otherwise you've kind of wasted the extra effort you've already invested. Thanks for the video. I'm looking forward to using my new Iron press. Thumbs up and good shooting!
anyone weigh there brass and projectile and separate them by weight?
I do.
@@zeekerekes9563 brass is just the stuff connect everything, primer powder projectile. the thing matters to accuracy is the weight of podwer and the projectile
Gavin, what is the metal thing holding your powder trickler to the side of your scale, and where do I get one?
I improvised that from a large nut and bolt :) - I think it was 7/8" or something like that...
Do you need to clean case sizing lube off ?
Hi Gavin
Using the same die set but without the micrometer, I found that after I adjusted the die down to the exact GBTO. The die would wander and not reliably repeat the same depth. I got variations from 0.001-0.005" in the depth. I ended up having to back the die off for each round. And gradually work downward until I got the right length. Any idea what's going on. Thanks! Gary
Which die are you using Gary? That sounds strange... Also- what press are you using?
gavintoobe I'm using the Hornady match grade die set with Sierra 140 hpbt bullets.
You measured from the bullet tip. If you measure from the OGIVE then variations are much smaller
What is the number on the comparator your using?
Did you full length resize or just bump the shoulder?
I use about 5x as much when I’m reloading 5.7x28mm to save the lacquer coating
5x’s as much sizing wax that is
What weight bullet are you loading?
I have a question I'm really interested in getting into long range shooting and mid range hunting if need be. I'm am very interested in the 6.5 creedmor. I'm looking at getting the ruger American predator in 6.5 creedmor. I'm wondering about optics. I'm looking at optics under 400$ but with adjustable MOA but with good glass and great zoom look at something that zooms up to at least 24. And I'm looking for 50mm. Open to any recommendations.
The Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24x50mm would be my suggestion based on your requirements. I have it on my Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor, and it's AWESOME for the price...
Thanks
check out SWFA 10x42 tactical. They are $299! I have two of them and the tracking is second to non! I have one on my 308 and one on my 6.5 Creedmoor 10BA.
Athlon argos btr there I have one on my Ruger precision rifle and it's absolutely great there videos of it being compare to vortex and people actually liking it better retail is $380
At 6:07, did something felt off ??
might be a stupid question but do you save that much reloading over just buying if you take into account the amount of time that is spent doing all this? There must be some benefit since it's pretty common but this seems super time consuming. Is this true?
Reloading can help you fine tune your ammunition for a particular rifle (or even pistol). The savings depends on what you're reloading. I got into reloading because 44 Magnum ammunition is super-expensive, and I like to shoot it a lot. Try this: ultimatereloader.com/tools/reloading-costs-calculator/
gavintoobe that makes sense! Thanks!
I think you misunderstand neck tension a bit you will be .292 no matter the bushing you use. Neck tension is set by changing the bushing size. You take your .264 bullet plus your neck thickness which is .014 which will give you your .292 that you measured. With your .288 bushing you have .004 neck tension, not .001-.002 like you stated.
What power do they use with hornady 140 led match
Powder
What's the best all around reloading system?
Does the Iron Press Cam Over?
why do you use the .288 bushing. Plus I can't find it.
MIDWAY USA
Can you use this to reload 9mm?
learned a lot. also noticed your reaching to far for materials,
Gavin, Can you tell me what shell holder number is use on the iron press..
Depends on the brand of shellholder, and the cartridge you are reloading! :)
I will be reloading 6.5 CM.. What brand shell holder would you recommend. Thank you
do you have a store or a gun range that you run?
Not yet. :)
Any plans on loading 7.5x55 Swiss by any chance?
+Tommy TwoGun Not as of yet! I'll keep it in mind however!
gavintoobe
Ok thanks that would be awesome. There are many Swiss rifle owners like myself who have K11's or K31's, and the GP11 milsurp ammo is no longer being imported due to the fact that supplies in Switzerland are in short supply and they've decided to keep the rest of it for themselves, which I don't blame them for doing. Currently the only big manufacturer of 7.5x55 is Prvi (PPU) and there's a small company Graf & Sons that reloads small batches using mostly Hornady projectiles.
I'd like to reload 5.56, 7.62, 9mm, 6.5 Creedmoor, 40 S&W, 22
No groups:(
Why not use a spray lube like Hornady One Shot? Much faster.
Because one-shot has limitations for bottleneck rifle cartridges. :)
gavintoobe Could you please tell us what that limitation is. I have been using One Shot for years and see no limitations.What am I missing?
One shot is DaShit ..... I haven’t had any problems what so ever , not even with 50 bmg cases
Not sure you can call this process of reloading "match grade". This is more of the basics. Good info nonetheless,
+PK289 Hey PK289- yes, it really all depends on your definition of "match grade". This is certainly not benchrest ammo, but I also know PRS competitors that load all of their match ammo on progressive presses. :)
Your information on neck tension is wrong. You can't check neck tension that way. You would first have to verify that neck thickness is the same. Then you would check it before putting the bullet in. Once the bullet is in, it doesn’t matter in the tension is different, it has to get wide enough for the bullet to fit in. If the neck thickness is the same, and tension is different, once you shove the bullet in it’s going to be the same measurement. You have to measure tension BEFORE you seat a bullet.
i have to ask. is that a spare tire rack for a jeep you have the loader mounted to?
E1M1?
you'll never get match grade ammo with a digital scale. saw the scale float .3 grains after your first powder measure. use a beam scale, you will get way more consistent powder measures
+0.3 grains is perhaps 10-15 fps in velocity differential on the creedmoor (double that for an absolute difference of 0.6gr, +/-). As per your comment regarding digital scales, it a matter of budget. If you can afford a "good" digital scale (a scientific scale not "branded") you will achieve much higher accuracy than a balance. On the other-hand, between the economical alternatives, the balance/beam scale likely has greater accuracy due to the analog nature of the interpretation of the reading. Certainly better than branded scales.
give an example of a good beam scale
I use one automatic scale take it off the scale and dump it on another digital scale and I've been able to achieve quarter inch MOA in six different 338 Lapua rifles. I have found that loading for temperature is one of the keys for that kind of accuracy. One person normally hunts in an environment of -5 to 25 degrees, another hunting environment when season temp is 105 to 95 degrees and the raffle is suppressed by military titanium AAC unit. I know it's the comment about lab grade scale that is the final scale digital I use and so far the automatic fill unit scale shows the same grain weight unless you have a smartphone in the room. I guess it don't have shielding we figured out he was getting text messages 8 or 10 in 20 minutes and I was going bonkers what is wrong with this scale and powder dump. I use a high boy shipping container for my reloading room three and a half inch double foil backed high-density insulation, wood studs, half inch sanded cabinet grade Birch plywood for paneling. If the doors are locked with the copper mesh seals that I put on the door it's pretty well EMP proof. I had one of the doors not shut completely and he thought he was having trouble with his phone but they was a signal even week and it affected the automatic scale and powder dump. So maybe the reason I'm getting such good results that match mylab scale is because I'm blocking the cell towers around. Yes I do keep the door shut. Just some food for thought for anyone loading just good hunting rounds on a automatic powder dump with a smartphone or two in the room beware. But I do like the redundant weight measurement and I lose very little time what I dump from one scale to the other then by the time I've dumped powder in the shell/case haha the automatic scale/powder dump has just finished. But these two guys are real shooters military equipment and friends who would really give me a hard time if I stumped my toe. For the one with the suppressor his use is way more serious so got to do my best.. a load for him three different climate/temperature groups. So far away Superior to the best they've been able to get. Says a lot how good we have it with the quality of products now. I feel like sending president Trump a thank you card now I can get my 8 pound cans of Varget, 4350, Etc. Being an old guy I miss the 20 pound cans.
Your scale is drifting around its zero. The proof is watching it go from 0.0 with an empty pan, to 140.8 after hitting 43.0gr, then to 0.0 and then to 140.7 after another 43.0gr. Typical of Hornady scales which aren't that accurate...one of the main reasons I sold my Hornady Auto Charge and upgraded to a RCBS Chargemaster
I don't Know who this guy is but his claim of loading Match grade ammo is about as far from the truth as can be. First Match ammo from a Hornady Lock-Load press and Hornady dies won't win many matches where I come from, don't believe me just as any match shooter and you'll here Foster or Redding. And I believe his statement concerning primer pockets shows how little this guy knows. As far as bushing sizing dies are a waste of money if you don't neck turn which is not mentioned. How about fire forming, annealing, neck sizing case triming, primer pocket uniforming, case mouth chamfer internal and external, bullet runout, case and bullet weigths powder lot numbers, etc. And who sits there trickler on their scale when weigthing powder charges. Maybe in ten years and a lot of study and range time will this guy know how to load Match grade ammo. Be careful there is a lot of bad info on loading out there.
Jeff- everyone has a different meaning when they use the term "match" - ultimately you have to use the tools/methods/processes that work for you based on your goals. I know a lot of "match" shooters that load all of their ammo on progressives and don't mess around with flash holes, etc. All I ask here is that you treat everyone with respect, including myself!
Anyone else get annoyed with the loud nose breathing and whistling coming from this guy?