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Sound Blaster 1.0 MCV Replica build + CPLD programming
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- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- PCB Prototype the Easy Way. Full feature custom PCB prototype service. www.pcbway.com/
Snark Barker MCA Github page: github.com/schlae/snark-barke...
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Tools I regularly use
DeoxIT D5 Contact Cleaner
Hanstar 861DW Rework Station
Pro'sKit SS-331 Desoldering Station
UNI-T UT61E Auto Ranging Multimeter
UNI-T UT890D Manual Ranging Multimeter
MESR-100 mk2 ESR meeter
PINECIL Soldering Iron
PinePowerPSU
TS-100 Soldering Iron
AMTECH NC-559-ASM Flux
Kester 951 Flux pen
MaAnt Grinding Pen
Multicore 60/40. 0.38mm and 0.5mm solder
TL866 II Plus Programmer
RIGOL DHO800 70MHz four-channel digital scope
Tektronix 2246A 100 MHz four-channel analog scope
FNIRSI DPOX180H 180MHz Handheld Digital Oscilloscope
InfiRay P2 Pro Thermal Camera
PCBs from PCBWay.com
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Join me on Twitter: / epictronics1
Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio
Your pc is like cadillac among classic cars
when drilling hardend metal, use machine oil OR water as you drill to reduce heat, drill a small pilot hole first then step up to a larger drill bit as you are removing less metal and less heat each enlargement. Also get a cheap tool called a NIBBLER. good for cutting straight edges on sheet metal even square holes to size
A nibbler would be awesome to have. I drilled in three steps but it still got too hot. I should have used oil for sure
@@Epictronics1 Oil is really messy, don't do that. He means 'machine oil'. It's water-soluable oil (coolant) that is white when mixed with water in about 10:1 ratio and is used when machining parts in engineering workshops etc. As a retired 1st Class Machinist / CNC Programmer for 30 years we used that stuff everywhere in all our machine tools. For jobs at home where you know it's going to get hot, put a block of wood in a plastic tub (do it outside) and fill with water to just submerge the wood then put the part on top of the wood and drill it while under the water.
Edit: Anyway you can fix it. Just use some 600-grit wet&dry sandpaper and polish it and it will look like new.
Its not rly hardened material, the back plates are made of some type of stainless steel.
That means when drilling you need to have extremely low speed but high pressure, and use coolant, to be successful when using HSS bits.
Otherwise just go with cobolt bits, but May be overkill for that one time use..
@@Thelemorf you don't need high pressure. All you have to do is thin out the center web on the drill. As a machinist for ~30 years I do that all the time when using a hand drill at home.... cuts like going through butter :-)
@@g4z-kb7ct would guess that most amateurs dont have the knowledge or skill to manually grind drill bits for certain applications
14:26 Pro tip: To keep it looking clean you should have plugged the JTAG cables into the connector but not soldered it in. Then hold the connector in place by pushing sideways and applying some pressure then program it. It usually only takes a few seconds to program a chip so you will only have to hold it for that amount of time. Obviously it must be held by pushing sideways at an angle so the pins contact so get the software ready, hold the connector and then click 'program' while holding it firmly. After it's programmed you just lift off the connector and it looks clean and those holes also stay clean. Something to remember for any future JTAG programming :-)
I'll give it a try, thanks!
This is what I often do with ISP headers.
I've only just started watching and I'm already getting flashbacks to my time working in a factory making boards for PCs and PS/2 systems. I mostly did testing of the final product, but I also got to apply engineering mods to certain runs of boards. In our case we used hot air blowers, both stationary and hand-held. Interestingly, the hand-held unit I remember looking a lot like a standard hair dryer, which is kinda scary, as someone could conceivably prank someone with one of those. Only it would probably burn a hole in your head before you realized what it was.
As for the technique used by the factory I worked in, I do recall having to be very careful about not keeping the PCB under the hot air for more than a couple of seconds.
Cool job :) Yeah, hot air and solder paste is a great method too. On these few SMD components, I'm not sure it matters much but on larger projects, it's a better method for sure
Really nice build! Every time I see a modern MCA card, I always get a sense of awe. I never thought anyone would go through the trouble to create these.
Yeah, I hope everything learned about this odd bus is getting recorded somewhere. I'm not sure if these repros are just copies of the old EEPROMs and installation disks, or if someone has cracked the code on the card-to-bus communication and the description files, but it would be great if this opens the door for new hardware as well.
@@nickwallette6201 I think Tube Time has a pretty deep understanding of the bus. It would be awesome if we got a RAM expansion card for the MCA bus. Now that we have sound and storage, RAM is the next big issue.
It's awesome that Tube Time figured it out :)
the perfect afternoon of tv! you then adriens digital basement!! what more could you ask for pal
Thanks :)
It was a good Digital Basement episode. That old terminal stuff reminds me of past times trying to figure out the pin out for a 232 or 422 port
21:52 The minimum PCB order is usually 5 pcs so what I usually do with my nice projects is use one of the spare boards and build another one complete then put it on my display shelf. If you do that be sure to solder all the parts into the board without sockets because rarely are parts in sockets on production boards. You have the skills to remove any parts and replace but since it's only a display piece that won't need to be done. Soldering everything in will make it look even nicer.
Yeah, I think I'm gonna build another one using all the tested chips from this board
Also a display board is a good way to ‘use’ broken chips that you’ve replaced on other systems.
@@markmuir7338 I've got plenty of those :)
the quality of your videos does not equal your subscriber count! keep up the great work its amazing
Thanks!
It's is a pretty amazing feeling getting a virtual machine running on your system, but SO much better getting that CPLD flashed with the sound card information. TOTALLY worth the work, and I am SO grateful that we have this technology today. Imagine trying to do this in 1997? Windows 98 wasn't even out yet and you sure weren't running VMware on win9x!!! So awesome to have made this card, kudos to you!!
Thanks! I remember trying out Virtual PC for the first time in the early 2000s. I was pretty amazed! I used it to run DOS games on my Windows 2000 PC :)
@@Epictronics1 Yeah, VPC was really impressive when it came out, especially given the modest hardware of the day. I took a class one time on some Microsoft management whatever, and we had to run two guest OSes on top of Win 2K, on the desktop PCs in the lab. I remember wondering, how much RAM is in these things?! haha
@@nickwallette6201 I had a dual PIII 1GHz and 1Gig of PC133 RAM. Dos ran fine lol
Panavise is your friend. Panavise makes a really nice pcb holder. Used ones can be had cheaper than that PCB. New can be had cheaper than that build. The 324 is what I use. Roper Whitney No. 5 hand punch for holes and slots.
Thanks
Such beautiful work, the pcp is a thing of beauty. Really enjoyed this video. Thankyou.
Thanks!
It really does look like a vintage sound card. Colors and all are correct. Nice!
For drilling in metal I'd recommend rinsing a drill and plate with oil or water to provide some cooling, otherwise you'd get discoloration in brown or purple colour.
I definitely should have used some oil!
Aligning all the metal bands for the win.
Nice build for the build!
Thanks!
TexElec has an assembled version based on this Snark Barker, called the Resound, for about $125 USD. It even has a few minor updates.
Very cool and great video!! Thanks for sharing
Thanks Rudy!
Man, this card looks awesome 😊
I'm tempted to keep it on display :)
A good method for small smd components is to tin one pad, then put the part together with the soldering iron in this pad and position it. Afterwards, solder the other pad. Works fine, even without flux. I'm using flux only for components with multiple pins and/or hot air.
What also works good is solder paste. Just a bit on every pad, put the parts into it and let the hor air do the rest. Gives great looking solderjoints and looks just like factory.
Yeah, I need to remember to get some solder paste. Thanks for the reminder 👍
@@Epictronics1 Solder paste is really just tiny balls of solder and flux together. You really don't need it but if you are going to use it then use it as intended.... apply paste, put the parts in place and hot air it without touching it. Paste is most useful for a reflow oven where parts can't be mounted manually. For home projects it's not required especially since your manual soldering skills are excellent.
Does look great!
Thanks!
Really amazing 😮
Thanks!
That is IBM cards of MCA look like! Obsolete ones but are not giving up. Very good video.
Thanks!
Oh, nice. And it also has room for the SAA1099 chips. Nice! I was going to go for TexElec's card if I ever found a PS/2 but now seeing that this one also has CMS/Game Blaster support, I might opt for this one instead. Of course, obsolete parts may be an issue but well, that's a risk of our hobby in general, I guess.
I just ordered a few more of those obsolete chips for other projects. They are still available. Unfortunately, CMS functionality is not implemented at this time. Hopefully, it will be someday!
@@Epictronics1 Oh, I see. Bummer. But still nice to hear that you got the chips.
This guy needs more cowbell
I have this soundcard too. But I needed years to find it.
In my life CPLD means Chronic Polymorphic Light Dermatitis.
Greate!
Thanks!
Hot air and solder paste would save you hours.
where did you get the games for old os?
ebay
CPLD can be programmed using xc3sprog
@Epictronics1 Can you share gerber files for this card with this original like look?
The one thing I don’t like about VirtualBox is past 5.2 XP has no 3d acceleration that I can find. It’s not in the UI. Maybe it’s in vboxmanage but I couldn’t find a reference to it I think.
It really needs a bezel for the CD-ROM drive, maybe it was a 3D printer the mailman came with? :P
I wish! Although, I have a temporary solution coming up :)
New to the channel. Do I detect a hint of a Maltese accent?
No, I had to google it. I didn't know Malta had its own language. I thought they were speaking Italian. Learning something new every day!
Monkey Island 😍🥰😍🥰😍🥰😍🥰
Thanks to see and hear that.👍
Perfect match for the Sound Blaster :)
he completely assembled a sound card..next up? cpu...
That thin tip would probably not work on a thicker pcb
I think you're right
Question, wouldn't it be more practical to use hot air to solder that Xilinx chip? I mean, in the beginning the board is totally unpopulated, so the risk of melting plastics is practically zero.
It probably is. We'll compare in some future project
@@Epictronics1 No don't do it. I can tell you from 30 years of soldering experience you will never line up the chip perfectly and it will be out of position and it will annoy the hell out of you (well it annoys me to see a pin off by even 0.2mm). Soldering it by hand is the correct way to do it.
you must use really good flux, the stuff i use is a pain to clean off the board. could alsp be that im using 91% isopropyl alcohol and not a higher concentration. at any rate, good work!
Thanks! If I leave the flux on the board for long enough it will get cold and difficult to remove. If that's what's causing you trouble use a regular heat gun or your rework station to heat the flux up. When warm it's much easier to remove. I use AMTECH NC-559-ASM Flux
@@Epictronics1 Correction: You use the chinese copied AMTECH NC-559-ASM flux. The real stuff is much more expensive. Personally I use AIM NC254 flux gel (real stuff not from China)
@@g4z-kb7ct I thought it was the real stuff! How can you tell?
@@Epictronics1 there is no real stuff unless you buy it directly from the manufacturer or an officially supported supplier. check the price you paid then check the price on the manufacters site. I'm guessing you paid less than half for your stuff. If you heat it the knock off stuff disappears and dries up in a few seconds and the real stuff is active for longer. It's good enough for what you do so I wouldn't worry about it.
@@g4z-kb7ct Interesting. I'll order a tube and compare :)
You have plenty of random old PCs there so to save all the messing around it's better to use a real PC running the required OS. When I program my CPLDs I use an old laptop running Windows 7. Yes that Xilinx software is a real dog... 1GB of junk to program a CPLD lol
edit p.s. You might be able to replace the NJM3403 with a LM324. The NJM is specifcally made for audio applications but the LM324 is pin compatible and should work. If you are able to swap out the NJM for a LM324 and compare the audio I would be very interested to know if there's any audible difference :-)
edit p.p.s. You can solve the long cap issue by first bending the legs at 90 degrees before soldering so it sits flat against the board.
I'll add an LM324 to my next order and we'll try it out. I compared the caps with my other PS/2 cards and they have the same size caps. So, that is the proper PS/2 look :)
you do realise you could use solder paste instead of flux in soldering smd component and save some time on cleaning flux or addingsolder on the iron tip?
althought it looks like you like to take it slow
also
if JRC labeled part is obsolite, there is big chance that it is still produced under the same number with NJM instead of JRC in the name
Thanks for sharing. I'll check!
Bleh I had similar issues with virtual box last time I tried to use it. I just ended up using something else.
If the drill is getting hot you're probably running it too fast: when drilling steel the drill should be run at a low speed with a lot of force -- 20kg of weight on the drill or more would not be unusual for a wide bit like that!
A drill press for metalwork will give like 4x or 10x mechanical advantage and generally run slow for exactly this reason. Drilling steel with a handheld drill is super miserable, but it's possible if you really lean into it. Getting a clean hole is another matter..
Once you've overheated the bit, it loses temper, and will get dull really fast.
My drill press only takes small drill bits. I hope to get a much larger one someday. I was pretty lucky to get this good result handheld
@@Epictronics1 You don't need to guess the speed. There is a formula... RPM = cutting speed (m/min) x 1000 divided by (Pi x drill-diameter). So for a 10mm high-speed-steel drill with standard cutting speed for steel at 30m/min, 30 x 1000 / (10 x 3.14159). RPM = 955. If the steel is hard reduce the cutting speed to a smaller number and recalculate (15 is a good start for hard steel). I'm sure there is an online calculator somewhere. Cutting speeds for various metals and other materials are available online. As a cnc machinst I usually started with a cutting speed of about 300 - 400 but that was for carbide tools :-)
I have a vid of one of my machines drilling a 60mm hole at 1000RPM using a carbide indexable tip drill (we call them U-Drills) in 4140 steel. It cuts like butter and is pure magic to watch :-)
I'm so ADHD at 41 I cannot Trust Myself still with Surface mount chips like this;
My OCD about my Bread Boarding in Highschool 20 years ago, making the Jumpers & Components lie flush & cut to length was bad enough LOL
My breadboard jumpers look perfect!😂 I wasted so much time making them😂
@@Epictronics1 My Electronics teacher was Annoyed, but I had an UnUsed Tackle Box that was clean, I would take it to school and save my used parts & Wires for ReUse.
I Looked like I was Hauling around a Compaq Portable every day to school as if it were Field Trip day to the Fishin' Hole LOL
5:15 or inhale them by mistake
lol
Have you ever tought about why are they still making resistors with such long legs?? Its just a waste, you never need them.
True. It would have been easier to install them if they had shorter legs
@@Epictronics1 Like most technology it's a remnant of past times. It's easier to poke a resistor into a hole manually if the legs are longer. It also allows variation of hole spacing. If the resistor was pre-made to fit a 0.400" hole spacing (common for 1/4W resistors) and some board had wider leg spacing the resistor would not fit. Also, if you keep those resistor legs you can re-use them to patch a trace, make a jumper or build up a circuit on a vero board :-)
Question: you’re always saying how you’re running out of time… why?
I upload weekly. The deadline is once a week
@@Epictronics1 He obviously has never made a vid. You should have mentioned that a 30 minute vid often takes several days to actually do with editing time ;-)
@@g4z-kb7ct It's a valid question. I have wondered the same thing when listening to videos or podcasts by people who seem to have no externally imposed length limitations or deadlines.
It's not "ignorance at how long it takes to produce content", it's just not understanding what's so vital about meeting expectations of viewers and The Algorithm.
@@nickwallette6201 It's actually a destructive never-ending viscious circle. Someone takes a lot of time to make content (often from hours of footage edited down to 30 minutes). We watch it then forget it 1 minute later. The person must then make more content to retain viewers. It's soul-crushing ;-)