After watching the right way, I realized just how lucky I got. I'm no welder so I cut mark with sharpie, them Painters take to hold together. Had someone else weld, Didn't have the band clamps together. And it all fit Perfectly. 🤔I should about a lottery ticket that day😏
About to get my first TIG and this makes me realize I have soooooo much to learn and so many tricks and tools to acquire. The production quality on these videos is awesome too!
Keep up the great work on the square body. Mine is approaching the end of the first phase of its build and your channel has been a great source of information
Amazing how much work goes into one pipe. Would it have saved time by using pre-bent tubing instead of pies? I need to reworm my headers on my 8.1 since they hit the shackles. I'm thinking a few pies would get the flange over far enough. Never thought of them till I watched this.
Where there lots of room to work, prebent is the ticket. I can’t conceive of being able to make use of any bends on the downpipe. Also, pies have an infinitely adjustable radius, and can much tighter than standard bends. If you’re routing through tight spaces, or have a narrow opening you have to pass through, pies are the hot ticket.
@@WillometMotorFab Got it! I'm glad I watched this. Pies will be great for the next project. I want to do a 3" dual in the Suburban. Trying to snake around the ouput of the 205 is tough. These will work well for getting the fitment right.
What length springs are on the back and I know your running the boomerang shackles and that you got HD mounts. But what was your leaf setup on the front before you went link? I’m building a simple reliable setup and liked how you set yours up but can’t find a video on your old setup
Rears are 65” from ORD, and the old fronts were 48” from the same. They still have my specs in their system, so you can call and get the same spring rates for your truck.
@@WillometMotorFab is there anything you would have done differently On the front? I’m assuming having the front done with a ORD as well if anything. What spring length etc etc would you recommend on the front if I custom order one. I tried sending a email to ORD but I never got a response
@@kylewest100 stay 48” on the front, but go with their custom rates. You’ll get 12” of travel, no problem. The rear 65” are worth the work. Call those folks before you commit - lots of good advice from Stephen and his team.
The crossmember doesn’t interfere with the routing. It’s the high clearance transfer case that doesn’t leave much room, plus, 4” doesn’t really fit between the cylinder head and frame.
Absolutely. There's all kind of nasty heavy metals that come from welding anything with Chromium, Nickel, and even just plain old steel. Live to weld another day.
Excellent work.
I'll recommend to keep the typed comments on the screen a few seconds longer👍
Thank for watching and for that note. The software defaults to 5 seconds, so I’ll push it a smidge more.
After watching the right way, I realized just how lucky I got. I'm no welder so I cut mark with sharpie, them Painters take to hold together. Had someone else weld, Didn't have the band clamps together. And it all fit Perfectly. 🤔I should about a lottery ticket that day😏
Good to see Harriet on the move again!
For sure. She's healing quite nicely.
I have said it before and I’ll say it again you are an artist with that welder 👊🏻👊🏻. Awesome job as always Dave 🔥🔥
It’s coming along. I’m a few steps closer to “being one” with my TIG. Glad you enjoyed this one.
@@WillometMotorFab I enjoy them all 👍🏻
About to get my first TIG and this makes me realize I have soooooo much to learn and so many tricks and tools to acquire. The production quality on these videos is awesome too!
You can do it! It's a great adventure in skill building. Thank you for watching, and I appreciate those kind words.
Keep up the great work on the square body. Mine is approaching the end of the first phase of its build and your channel has been a great source of information
Glad this has been useful to you!
Mesmerizing to watch the welding. I need to get a welder to play along!
Once you’ve got the practice and the settings and you’re in a good position, it’s pure meditation.
High quality content - both on the truck and on the screen - as always. 😎
Thanks bud. All about the quali-tay!
I love it man! Great work!
Thanks dude. 👍
Good video. Nice welds.
Thanks dude.
Amazing work!
Thanks man. One piece at a time.
Amazing how much work goes into one pipe. Would it have saved time by using pre-bent tubing instead of pies?
I need to reworm my headers on my 8.1 since they hit the shackles. I'm thinking a few pies would get the flange over far enough. Never thought of them till I watched this.
Where there lots of room to work, prebent is the ticket. I can’t conceive of being able to make use of any bends on the downpipe. Also, pies have an infinitely adjustable radius, and can much tighter than standard bends. If you’re routing through tight spaces, or have a narrow opening you have to pass through, pies are the hot ticket.
@@WillometMotorFab Got it! I'm glad I watched this. Pies will be great for the next project. I want to do a 3" dual in the Suburban. Trying to snake around the ouput of the 205 is tough. These will work well for getting the fitment right.
@@affordabledcgenerators1607 for sure! Check out oval tubing too - handy for those tight spots
What length springs are on the back and I know your running the boomerang shackles and that you got HD mounts. But what was your leaf setup on the front before you went link? I’m building a simple reliable setup and liked how you set yours up but can’t find a video on your old setup
Rears are 65” from ORD, and the old fronts were 48” from the same. They still have my specs in their system, so you can call and get the same spring rates for your truck.
@@WillometMotorFab is there anything you would have done differently On the front? I’m assuming having the front done with a ORD as well if anything. What spring length etc etc would you recommend on the front if I custom order one. I tried sending a email to ORD but I never got a response
@@kylewest100 stay 48” on the front, but go with their custom rates. You’ll get 12” of travel, no problem. The rear 65” are worth the work. Call those folks before you commit - lots of good advice from Stephen and his team.
Great video. I suggest you start collaborating with other youtubers to spread the word.
👍 I think that's a fantastic idea.
Are you going to wrap or ceramic coat the down pipe?
I wrapped it in DEI lava wrap. Photos are on my IG.
@@WillometMotorFab used the same wrap on my exhaust in the 95 gmc 6.5 diesel, works great
You couldn't modify the trans cross member to fit 4" all the way back?
The crossmember doesn’t interfere with the routing. It’s the high clearance transfer case that doesn’t leave much room, plus, 4” doesn’t really fit between the cylinder head and frame.
@@WillometMotorFab makes sense I was thinking about the factory setup
What tig torch holder is that ?
I honestly don't remember. I use another one now, and gave that to a friend.
respirator for stailness?
Absolutely. There's all kind of nasty heavy metals that come from welding anything with Chromium, Nickel, and even just plain old steel. Live to weld another day.
you need to step up 1/2 inch with oval pipe. it chokes it with bigger HP boosted engines
That's good insight. On this low rpm engine, I'd think it's okay, but good design notes for when I build for the Charger.