@@TGA2010000 I would say no, because the RC setup is good for when the kids are under the ages of 2 or two-and-a-half. And if I’m running a RC setup with a young kid, I don’t want the car to go 7mph. I would recommend using a SLA battery over a power tool battery on a RC setup because the runtime is usually longer
Followed your video step by step and gave new life to a very old power wheel jeep. Thank you for this! Very well done. I love learning about electronics and trying new things.
Thank you so much for this video! I was so confused on the low voltage controller and why it wasn't working. But when you explained the math of it, it made sense and it worked mediontly. Thank you for saving my project!
Love your diagram and set up! Wondering if you have any ideas on adding a single touch (push button) power switch (so my kids can feel like they're "turning on the car" and connect it to a time delay relay to cut power after a few minutes if they leave the powerwheel without "tuning off the car" (pushing the power button back off.) Could the time dealy relay take the place of the relay in your diagram? Thanks for any input!!
I just did a video (link below) with an on/off switch and digital voltage meter setup. I haven’t used a time delay relay, but it might be more of a hassle than it’s worth ua-cam.com/video/5rFmsB9ozzQ/v-deo.htmlsi=wgbfT3xGarCRnIck
@@DadHacks Thanks so much for getting back to me and your insights! I tend to over-engineer and complicate my projects, so maybe the time delay relay isn't the best method. In your new video with the on/off switch if I understand correctly you're suggesting not using a low voltage cut off and instead just rely on the voltage display? If a low voltage cut off were used in this set up would the on/off switch reset the low voltage cut off, or just when the battery is removed? Thanks again!
If adding a motor voltage controller, would you add it after the line that says "to car" or before/after the fuse going into terminal 30 on the relay? Wanting to be able to control speed, or reduce voltage out to motor down to 12v instead of 20 or 18.
I have a better diagram to use with a voltage controller in this video, around the 4 minute point: ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.htmlsi=pmGHWQzlBpRoZJ8C
Awesome video! I've been running a gator and a tractor straight off M18 batteries for a couple years and I've lucked out not losing any batteries from low voltage. With this setup, do you need to enter the cutoff values each time the battery is changed or does it save that info?
Unfortunately yes, you need to ender the cut off values each time, which is why I made this digital display voltage kit, so the drive can easily monitor the voltage ua-cam.com/video/5rFmsB9ozzQ/v-deo.html
Hi @DadHacks, thank you so much for your video!!! 🤩 I'm about to start the project and was wondering if using the blue crimp with a 12awg wire is okay. I found online that the yellow crimp is more suitable for this size of wire. I have no knowledge of electricity and I don't want to compromise safety. What do you advice? Thanks a lot 💪👍
Thank you for the reply. I've another question about the fuse (from a newbie lol). Why did you place one between the terminal block and the relay and not directly on the positive wire from the battery? I thought that it would be more secure next to the battery to avoid any fire risks? Or maybe do you suggest to place two in line fuses in the system (battery and relay/lcvd?)
Followed your video step by step with a dewalt 20v battery. Hooked it up to the jeep and it works but it’s super jerky and when you left off the peddle it’s a pretty delayed abrupt stop. Also the jeep had a little radio and would do the engine start up sound but neither of those work when I switched it over
@@DadHacks used it a little bit today and those randomly started working again. Took it for a test drive and it lasted around 10 mins then it would kind of sputter on and off a lot. It was set to the 16 and 1 like you specified. There’s a high and low speed but they’re the same now to for some reason.
I purchased the exact parts from the links, hooked everything up exactly the same but when I push the accelerator on the car I get nothing but a buzz from the relay
What kind of power wheels is it and what type of battery does it use (6 volt, 12 volt or two 6 volt)? I’ve seen 4 wires on a Kid Trax motorcycles before. If you have an old battery, take a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/8dfCpXAGNVw/v-deo.html
It is a 12 volt Jeep Safari. And I sadly don’t have an old battery for it. It has black, white, blue, and yellow wires coming out of it and into the original plug.
@@annamisner7632 I’m pretty sure the 4 wires were for a two battery set up. Two 6 volt batteries, and they could switch between low (6 volts) or high (12 volts). To be honest, it’s a very difficult setup to convert to 18 volts
You confused me when you say you will not need to use 87-A on the relay but then you connect it to the + car's power input. Does using two battery have advantages? I bought parts for doing that but not sure if I need to? May do another power wheel car later, so extra parts will be okay. You video's are outstanding!
Thanks! I try to make the videos easy to understand. I neglected to explain that a 5 pin relay has an 87 pin and a 87A pin. The 87A is located in the middle and is unused. The “87” is located on the outside of the relay and is used. Thanks for asking, I’ll be sure to clarify in the future!
Have everything wired just as shown with same equipment but my out side of my LVCO does both have an illuminated led light and i am getting no voltage on my multimeter, but i am not sure where the problem is coming from.
The low voltage control board can only handle 20 amps. The power wheels motor will draw more than that on grass or going up a hill, so that will fry the control board. A relay sends voltage to the board to power it without sending the full amount of amps.
Thanks for the reply! I wasn’t sure what to expect with it being an older video but i really appreciate the clarification! Sounds like not by-passing steps is the smart way to go.
I have another video with a speed controller. Skip to 2:50 on the video and then 4:20 (ignore those links as it links to the current video) for the diagram for this video ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.htmlsi=eXm_QbslqBvpxkvg
I got that to work thanks. And sorry to be a pest...I have the exact setup from the diagram you showed me with speed controller. I'm getting power to LVC and speed controller. But, no power to car. It's a Perego Gator...does it have 2 speeds plus reverse have something to do with it? No blown fuses etc.
When I attach it to the power wheel with the cut off board, the second speed (faster) for forward studders and will not actually go. When I do it without the low voltage cut off board attached, it works fine. Any ideas?
@@DadHacks what if I use one of those pwm speed controllers with the adjustable knob would input a relay in front? Is a relay like a fuse that takes the load so it doesn’t fry circuit boards?
The PWM speed controller needs the full load in its input, so you wouldn’t use a relay with the PWM. Also the PWM has a mini 30a fuse in it. I have had the mini fuse pop once or twice, but I put a 40a fuse in it and it did fine. Also note, there was a regular 30a fuse before the PWM’s fuse that didn’t pop, so that leads me to believe the mini fuse is more delicate. So I would still recommend a 30a fuse right off of the battery and then don’t rely on the internal PWM’s fuse. A fuse is a safety tool to protect the wire, the relay is a safety tool to protect a switch or board.
One thing I should clarify is that the fuse protects the wire from overheating too much. But the fuse can only work if it’s sized correctly. If the stock wires on the car are thin (16 AWG), then you should use a smaller fuse size, like a 20 amp. If you use a larger fuse, like a 30 or 40 amp fuse it will essentially be useless.
Im useing 2 / 20 volt craftsman batterys 6 ah. Can i piggy back the 2 batterys on the strip? Both positive and then both negitive together. Or would this not be correct. And is 2 fuses needed for both batterys just before the strips? Im trying to understand how low voltage relay is protected, it looks like the 1 fuse is after the relay. I would think the fuse should go on the red positive side IN of Low volt cutoff. Im most likly looking at it wrong as far as following the lines. Thanks for your professional advice, i will be doing this project soon, thankyou. Im installing a speed control unit as well, its not in your plans, im going to install it from low volt control board to speed control unit. Thanks!
I would wire the batteries in parallel before wiring them to the strip (red to red/black to black). This will give you 20v and 12Ah. You can then add the fuse before the strip. Technically, that would be the only fuse needed and would be before the relay and LVC board to protect both. One note of the Craftsman battery, it is possible that it could already have a LVC built into the battery, similar to Ridgid, Ryobi and Makita. But it never hurts to have extra protection for the battery. Lastly, I have another video that hits wiring up the speed control unit on Method 4 of this video ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.html
@@DadHacks Thankyou for reply. Can I just add 2 fuses to battery's before the strip and on the strip hook up both black and both positive wires for the 20v 12ah for this to safe guard system. This way I will have 2 20 Amp fuses protecting system. Thankyou for your time, much appreciated.
Yes. For that method you are correct to use 2 fuses. FYI, the speed control that I bought had a mini 30 amp fuse in it, and it kept popping so I had to replace it with a 40amp. Make sure you are using at least 12 gauge wire
How would you wire it if you wanted to add a PWM controller to prolong the motors? I was going to wire it the same way with the controller between the battery and terminal strip output, but i seen in the comments you said the PWM controller needs full power to work correctly?
Do you have an alternative recommendation for the 24v relays to buy? The one you link is out of stock.... I like the prewired connectors. Trying to make it as easy as possible for myself...
Here’s another link to a 24relay with a harness. (I like them prewired as well, so much easier to use) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLD857Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NHQ2HS4B8F7HGYN17N1J
Hi, i plan on running two M18 batteries in paralell. I have the LVC and a DC speed controller. Im thinking i wont use the LVC and monitor the voltage on the cars built in radio. Do you think this is acceptable? I really dont want to reset the LVC every time i change a pack. The exisiting wire in the car is 16awg its one of those chinese ride ons with the lights etc. The battery adapters come with 30A fuses. I plan to upgrade the cars control board in time. There is also a 12v breaker thing between the battery + and the board.
Yes, using the dashboard voltage is perfect. I’ve moved away from the LVC board and just use a digital voltage gauge. If the car had a control board (little black box), then it will need to be upgraded to a 24 volt Weeley RX30. Otherwise, you are all set.
@@DadHacks awesome, my daughter is still small so i plan on keeping the pwm controller no higher than 14 or 15v. When she is bigger i plan on swapping to the 24v board and motors for more speed. I do worry about the stock wiring being able to handle the full load though.
Does it matter if the fuse is before going into the relay, or can it alternatively be on the wire going out of the relay to the car? I assume it's fine, but just wondering...
You have any issues with the low cut off board shorting out?? Both mine went out day after I installed them. Not sure if the kids let the bottom of the board touch metal and they went out or there is another issue
@@DadHacks Both the LVC boards went out on the first day. (2 power wheels) I followed your diagram exactly, yes including the relay. The red light indicator is off on both boards and when I checked with a volt meter there is no power coming out of the board.
@@DadHacks no, none of that stuff yet. I did test run night before , daughter drove both power wheels around a while. Then came home yesterday and kids told me they arent working. One of then the fuse blew (the fuse on the wire) pop the new fuse in ran for 3-4 min then died. Check it and no power coming out of the board, same as the first board. So maybe bad luck and both faulty or maybe the back of the board touch metal and shorted out?? I got 2 more on order today
To protect the Low Voltage Cutoff board, it can’t handle the full load. You could skip adding a LVC board and relay, but you would need a digital voltmeter to keep an eye on the voltage
Great comment. Yes, brands like Power Wheels and Peg Perego do not have on/off switch. It’s best practice to always disconnect the battery after use, even on 6v, 12v or 18 volts
Does this low voltage board store the settings? I have a few ride on toys that are running drill batteries, some for years without an issue, but going deeper down the rabbit hole lead me to realize how wrong I have been doing it. Right now, my kids will just hot swap the batteries when one is dead. If they pull the battery wont the board reset? I know I wouldn't have the issue if I left the battery in the toy and recharged it there (not ideal), or If I ran 2 batteries the board would have power as I swapped them one at a time.
Unfortunately, I’m pretty sure these boards do “reset” when power is disconnected, meaning it’s up to the child to reset it if they swap out batteries. I’ve switched to mainly using a digital voltage gauge on the dashboard to monitor the voltage, then swap out as needed
@@DadHacks can you link which one you are using? And by this do you mean rather having a cut-off board, you just now have a voltage reading aka A "gas" gauge and when you start to reach the safe "empty" zone, you stop and swap? I'm getting ready to do two conversions for my boys and there's no way they are going to set the cut off switch every time they ride if the voltage board doesn't retain it's settings but if I give them a digital "gas" tank with a number to not go below, I'm pretty sure they would remember it's time for a pit stop.
Yup, I use the digital voltage gauge as a “gas” tank for the battery. Funny enough, there is usually a gas tank sticker that I install the voltage meter over. Here’s the link to one I’ve used. If you have questions wiring it up, just let me know. I usually run it down to 16.0 volts, that leaves some room if we need to drive back to the garage. a.co/d/hHXyBBr
@@DadHacks thanks so much for quick reply. Yes, need help on how to wire in and where in the chain does this go? I see that it only has two connectors so how would I add this to chain? Right now my plan was not to use a terminal block - I was going to go Battery-voltage cutoff- speed control-motor. Would I need a terminal block if I went just meter reader?
You won’t need a terminal block, but you will need to split each line (positive and negative). From the battery, you could wire into this splitter (for example positive 1 wire in, 2 positive wires out). a.co/d/ismrZ8z . One of the 2 out lines would go to the volt meter and the other would run to the “in” of your speed controller. Then the “out” of the speed controller would run to the car. The wire size from the battery, to the speed controller and then to the car should be 12 AWG. You can use a 16 AWG wire for the volt meter
Will all this modification make the car faster atm the factory car max speed is 2.5km is very slow how mutch faster if you run a 24v battery and what if you run 2x 24v batteries how mutch faster will the car run? Does anyone know? Do you also have to modify other things to run 48v?
Yes, it will make it faster, 18 volts should make it go about 7mph. 18 volt or 20 volts is really the max voltage you want to push a power wheels. You may have seen some stock 24 volt cars, but the gear ratio on those don't make them any faster, they only provide more torque (to go up hills better). You can do a 24 volt setup IF you use a ESC (electronic speed controller) and a variable speed pedal, otherwise you will rip your plastic gears apart with a sudden jerky starts and stops. You can search my other videos for the ESC setup
@DadHacks I truly want to thank you for your honest opinion. If car don't get any faster using 24v is no point investing in esc and pedal. I will be using your video to install and 18v soon as some other parts arrive. Once again thank you
@albaniansuperiorshqipetari8055 Using 24 volts on a 12 stock setup will get you more speed. It’s the stock 24 volt that won’t get you more speed over a stock 12 volt setup. The stock 24 volt gives you about the same speed, but more torque
How can I get ahold of you? I got some questions on why I can’t the speed to go up after installing 3 Pcs Power Battery Adapter Converter Kit Includes Motor Speed Controller with Switch Battery Power Adapter Low Voltage Protection 40a Fuse for 18V 20V Batteries DIY Display Toys Robots Cars. Need some help.
thanks really helpful@@DadHacks . im trying to wire up a 24v, 4 motor 4x4 power wheels, with a speed controller, low voltage cut off and ryobi battery adaptor.
Yes, you could wire the batteries in series, But when you start to push 24volts or more through a Power Wheels, you start to have more problems. Gearboxes tend to be the first thing to break, because the plastic gears can’t handle the heat. Also, the wiring might not be large enough to handle the heat
@@kirbycollins3223 the metal will definitely help. Here’s my “please subscribe” pitch; I’m working on a video on how to add a ESC (electric speed controller) and variable speed pedal. The ESC is ideal when running 24+ volts because it causes less stress on the gears and functions like a real gas pedal
Thanks for the video! Any chance you know where I can find a schematic for 2 12v batteries in series with the low voltage cut off? We have a 24v Grave Digger with Banebot motors but the batteries are shot. I brought some milwaukee battery adapters & hooked them up but smoked the low voltage cut off in a matter of seconds. Definitely need a diagram to do it correctly if you know where I can find 1.
@@ahlers1977 use the diagram at 5:22 in the video, but for the batteries, the + of one battery and the - of the other connect and then the other + and - run to the terminal strip... FYI, it’s a lot easier if you use the Sealed Lead Acid batteries, you don’t need a Low Voltage Cutoff for those and the time run is better than drill batteries
not just shorten the life of the batteries but fire risk because the chemistry becomes unstable and could start fires. some lithium chemistries can handle it better to really be safe you should go with lifepo4 witch you will simply ruin the cells and they may not last as long. i think this could one of the reasons why hoverboard batteries was catching fire besides shoddy cells, bad welds and shoddy charging systems. and now ebike batteries are catching fire it has been all over the news and youtube news.
Hello, pleas one help, i dont find some parts of gaucho superpower, the electronic card have burned but can repaired, pleas if yu can give me yur whatsapp or email i can show the picture to you, i think yu can help, thanks
![[006] Do Makita LXT batteries have low-voltage protection?](/img/n.gif)
Recommended Cut Off Voltages:
12 Volt - Set at 9.9 Volts, 1.0 Reset
18/20 Volts - Set at 16.0 Volts, 1.0 Reset
Is this setup good for your kids remote rc control mod?
@@TGA2010000 I would say no, because the RC setup is good for when the kids are under the ages of 2 or two-and-a-half. And if I’m running a RC setup with a young kid, I don’t want the car to go 7mph. I would recommend using a SLA battery over a power tool battery on a RC setup because the runtime is usually longer
@@DadHacks thank you very much for the advice...I will definitely look into sla battery setup
Followed your video step by step and gave new life to a very old power wheel jeep. Thank you for this! Very well done. I love learning about electronics and trying new things.
Great to hear!
Thank you so much for this video! I was so confused on the low voltage controller and why it wasn't working. But when you explained the math of it, it made sense and it worked mediontly. Thank you for saving my project!
Going off of your diagram if I wanted to add a motor controller where would I put it
Also great video and instructions
Love your diagram and set up! Wondering if you have any ideas on adding a single touch (push button) power switch (so my kids can feel like they're "turning on the car" and connect it to a time delay relay to cut power after a few minutes if they leave the powerwheel without "tuning off the car" (pushing the power button back off.) Could the time dealy relay take the place of the relay in your diagram? Thanks for any input!!
I just did a video (link below) with an on/off switch and digital voltage meter setup. I haven’t used a time delay relay, but it might be more of a hassle than it’s worth ua-cam.com/video/5rFmsB9ozzQ/v-deo.htmlsi=wgbfT3xGarCRnIck
@@DadHacks Thanks so much for getting back to me and your insights! I tend to over-engineer and complicate my projects, so maybe the time delay relay isn't the best method. In your new video with the on/off switch if I understand correctly you're suggesting not using a low voltage cut off and instead just rely on the voltage display? If a low voltage cut off were used in this set up would the on/off switch reset the low voltage cut off, or just when the battery is removed? Thanks again!
If you did add a LVC, the “reset” would only happen if you removed the battery
If adding a motor voltage controller, would you add it after the line that says "to car" or before/after the fuse going into terminal 30 on the relay? Wanting to be able to control speed, or reduce voltage out to motor down to 12v instead of 20 or 18.
I have a better diagram to use with a voltage controller in this video, around the 4 minute point: ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.htmlsi=pmGHWQzlBpRoZJ8C
@@DadHacks hey I tried clicking on your video but it says private 😢
Sorry, try this link ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.htmlsi=pmGHWQzlBpRoZJ8C
Awesome video! I've been running a gator and a tractor straight off M18 batteries for a couple years and I've lucked out not losing any batteries from low voltage. With this setup, do you need to enter the cutoff values each time the battery is changed or does it save that info?
Unfortunately yes, you need to ender the cut off values each time, which is why I made this digital display voltage kit, so the drive can easily monitor the voltage
ua-cam.com/video/5rFmsB9ozzQ/v-deo.html
Hi @DadHacks, thank you so much for your video!!! 🤩 I'm about to start the project and was wondering if using the blue crimp with a 12awg wire is okay. I found online that the yellow crimp is more suitable for this size of wire. I have no knowledge of electricity and I don't want to compromise safety. What do you advice? Thanks a lot 💪👍
Thanks! The blue connectors will likely have a hole that’s too small to fit a 12 AWG wire. It’s better to got either the yellow
Thank you for the reply. I've another question about the fuse (from a newbie lol). Why did you place one between the terminal block and the relay and not directly on the positive wire from the battery? I thought that it would be more secure next to the battery to avoid any fire risks? Or maybe do you suggest to place two in line fuses in the system (battery and relay/lcvd?)
@cyb3rFac3z I should have placed the fuse closer to the battery. You’re learning quick
Thus, if I've understand well, it's better to move the fuse closer to the battery and I have a regular wire between the relay and the lcvd?
@@cyb3rFac3z yes, move the fuse closer to the battery, before the split to the LVC board
Followed your video step by step with a dewalt 20v battery. Hooked it up to the jeep and it works but it’s super jerky and when you left off the peddle it’s a pretty delayed abrupt stop. Also the jeep had a little radio and would do the engine start up sound but neither of those work when I switched it over
The 20 volts likely fried the radio and lights (if it had any)
@@DadHacks used it a little bit today and those randomly started working again. Took it for a test drive and it lasted around 10 mins then it would kind of sputter on and off a lot. It was set to the 16 and 1 like you specified. There’s a high and low speed but they’re the same now to for some reason.
@@Relyks583 did you ever figure out why it was surging?
I purchased the exact parts from the links, hooked everything up exactly the same but when I push the accelerator on the car I get nothing but a buzz from the relay
What car brand do you have?
How would you wire it for two batteries and two low voltage cut off switches? Would I need two relays?
The relay you have linked in the description is not available. Any other recommendations of one that would work?
I’ll update the link for this relay. The main thing is that’s it’s a 24 volt relay with a harness. Thanks for letting me know a.co/d/08wZEvO
How do you connect the two wires that go to the vehicle? Do you have any pictures of that? I have 4 wires coming out of my power wheels.
What kind of power wheels is it and what type of battery does it use (6 volt, 12 volt or two 6 volt)? I’ve seen 4 wires on a Kid Trax motorcycles before. If you have an old battery, take a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/8dfCpXAGNVw/v-deo.html
It is a 12 volt Jeep Safari. And I sadly don’t have an old battery for it. It has black, white, blue, and yellow wires coming out of it and into the original plug.
@@annamisner7632 how old do you think the car is? Like less than 10 years or more than 10 years old?
@@annamisner7632 I’m pretty sure the 4 wires were for a two battery set up. Two 6 volt batteries, and they could switch between low (6 volts) or high (12 volts). To be honest, it’s a very difficult setup to convert to 18 volts
@@DadHacks We got it from our neighbor, but I’m guessing older?
You confused me when you say you will not need to use 87-A on the relay but then you connect it to the + car's power input. Does using two battery have advantages? I bought parts for doing that but not sure if I need to? May do another power wheel car later, so extra parts will be okay. You video's are outstanding!
Thanks! I try to make the videos easy to understand. I neglected to explain that a 5 pin relay has an 87 pin and a 87A pin. The 87A is located in the middle and is unused. The “87” is located on the outside of the relay and is used. Thanks for asking, I’ll be sure to clarify in the future!
Or where can I add a step down converter
Have everything wired just as shown with same equipment but my out side of my LVCO does both have an illuminated led light and i am getting no voltage on my multimeter, but i am not sure where the problem is coming from.
Late to the upgrade party but I was watching this and I was trying to figure out, is the relay required and/or what exactly does it do?
The low voltage control board can only handle 20 amps. The power wheels motor will draw more than that on grass or going up a hill, so that will fry the control board. A relay sends voltage to the board to power it without sending the full amount of amps.
Thanks for the reply! I wasn’t sure what to expect with it being an older video but i really appreciate the clarification! Sounds like not by-passing steps is the smart way to go.
I purchased this exact set up but also bought a speed controller. How do i connect it to this setup?
I have another video with a speed controller. Skip to 2:50 on the video and then 4:20 (ignore those links as it links to the current video) for the diagram for this video ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.htmlsi=eXm_QbslqBvpxkvg
@@DadHacks thank you!
For the low voltage board...what connectors are you using? It's such a small opening none of mine fit?
@archand1 12 AWG wire can fit well if you “open” up the connection area when you unscrew it all the way
I got that to work thanks. And sorry to be a pest...I have the exact setup from the diagram you showed me with speed controller. I'm getting power to LVC and speed controller. But, no power to car. It's a Perego Gator...does it have 2 speeds plus reverse have something to do with it? No blown fuses etc.
When I attach it to the power wheel with the cut off board, the second speed (faster) for forward studders and will not actually go. When I do it without the low voltage cut off board attached, it works fine. Any ideas?
If I don’t use that low voltage cut off module
Do I still need the relay?
Nope. The relay is only used to protect the LVC board
@@DadHacks what if I use one of those pwm speed controllers with the adjustable knob would input a relay in front? Is a relay like a fuse that takes the load so it doesn’t fry circuit boards?
The PWM speed controller needs the full load in its input, so you wouldn’t use a relay with the PWM. Also the PWM has a mini 30a fuse in it. I have had the mini fuse pop once or twice, but I put a 40a fuse in it and it did fine. Also note, there was a regular 30a fuse before the PWM’s fuse that didn’t pop, so that leads me to believe the mini fuse is more delicate. So I would still recommend a 30a fuse right off of the battery and then don’t rely on the internal PWM’s fuse. A fuse is a safety tool to protect the wire, the relay is a safety tool to protect a switch or board.
@@DadHacks awesome thanks so much !
One thing I should clarify is that the fuse protects the wire from overheating too much. But the fuse can only work if it’s sized correctly. If the stock wires on the car are thin (16 AWG), then you should use a smaller fuse size, like a 20 amp. If you use a larger fuse, like a 30 or 40 amp fuse it will essentially be useless.
Im useing 2 / 20 volt craftsman batterys 6 ah. Can i piggy back the 2 batterys on the strip? Both positive and then both negitive together. Or would this not be correct. And is 2 fuses needed for both batterys just before the strips? Im trying to understand how low voltage relay is protected, it looks like the 1 fuse is after the relay. I would think the fuse should go on the red positive side IN of Low volt cutoff. Im most likly looking at it wrong as far as following the lines. Thanks for your professional advice, i will be doing this project soon, thankyou. Im installing a speed control unit as well, its not in your plans, im going to install it from low volt control board to speed control unit. Thanks!
I would wire the batteries in parallel before wiring them to the strip (red to red/black to black). This will give you 20v and 12Ah. You can then add the fuse before the strip. Technically, that would be the only fuse needed and would be before the relay and LVC board to protect both. One note of the Craftsman battery, it is possible that it could already have a LVC built into the battery, similar to Ridgid, Ryobi and Makita. But it never hurts to have extra protection for the battery. Lastly, I have another video that hits wiring up the speed control unit on Method 4 of this video ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.html
@@DadHacks Thankyou for reply. Can I just add 2 fuses to battery's before the strip and on the strip hook up both black and both positive wires for the 20v 12ah for this to safe guard system. This way I will have 2 20 Amp fuses protecting system. Thankyou for your time, much appreciated.
Yes. For that method you are correct to use 2 fuses. FYI, the speed control that I bought had a mini 30 amp fuse in it, and it kept popping so I had to replace it with a 40amp. Make sure you are using at least 12 gauge wire
@@DadHacks Thankyou very much. I have a better understanding now. Have a great day. I'm very grateful for your help. I'm a sub to your channel!
You recommend a 5 pin relay, but wouldn’t a 4 pin make more sense?
Yes, 4 pin works
How would you wire it if you wanted to add a PWM controller to prolong the motors? I was going to wire it the same way with the controller between the battery and terminal strip output, but i seen in the comments you said the PWM controller needs full power to work correctly?
Watch this video, I have the diagram at the 4:19 minute mark. ua-cam.com/video/T9PUSDLFKAM/v-deo.html
Do you have an alternative recommendation for the 24v relays to buy? The one you link is out of stock.... I like the prewired connectors. Trying to make it as easy as possible for myself...
Here’s another link to a 24relay with a harness. (I like them prewired as well, so much easier to use) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLD857Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NHQ2HS4B8F7HGYN17N1J
hello , the 24v rele works with 15v for example if I use a 18v battery? If I have a cutoff of 14 v?. Thank you
Yes a 24v relay will work when the battery voltage drops to 15 volts. I’ve found setting the voltage cutoff at 16.0 works best for the battery
@@DadHacks tank you so much...
Hi, i plan on running two M18 batteries in paralell. I have the LVC and a DC speed controller. Im thinking i wont use the LVC and monitor the voltage on the cars built in radio. Do you think this is acceptable? I really dont want to reset the LVC every time i change a pack. The exisiting wire in the car is 16awg its one of those chinese ride ons with the lights etc. The battery adapters come with 30A fuses. I plan to upgrade the cars control board in time. There is also a 12v breaker thing between the battery + and the board.
Yes, using the dashboard voltage is perfect. I’ve moved away from the LVC board and just use a digital voltage gauge. If the car had a control board (little black box), then it will need to be upgraded to a 24 volt Weeley RX30. Otherwise, you are all set.
@@DadHacks awesome, my daughter is still small so i plan on keeping the pwm controller no higher than 14 or 15v. When she is bigger i plan on swapping to the 24v board and motors for more speed. I do worry about the stock wiring being able to handle the full load though.
Does it matter if the fuse is before going into the relay, or can it alternatively be on the wire going out of the relay to the car? I assume it's fine, but just wondering...
Ideally you will want it before the relay. If something were to happen then you’d have to replace the relay and a fuse versus just a fuse.
You have any issues with the low cut off board shorting out?? Both mine went out day after I installed them. Not sure if the kids let the bottom of the board touch metal and they went out or there is another issue
Nope, I haven’t had any issues with the LVC board when used with a relay.
@@DadHacks Both the LVC boards went out on the first day. (2 power wheels) I followed your diagram exactly, yes including the relay. The red light indicator is off on both boards and when I checked with a volt meter there is no power coming out of the board.
@@nickm7394 hmm, any other modifications? Like different motor or bike tire wrapped around the wheels?
@@DadHacks no, none of that stuff yet. I did test run night before , daughter drove both power wheels around a while. Then came home yesterday and kids told me they arent working. One of then the fuse blew (the fuse on the wire) pop the new fuse in ran for 3-4 min then died. Check it and no power coming out of the board, same as the first board. So maybe bad luck and both faulty or maybe the back of the board touch metal and shorted out?? I got 2 more on order today
How do you add the speed selector using that set up?
Checkout this video, it uses a speed controller ua-cam.com/video/hnBAEuVzGEA/v-deo.html
What are the relays for?
To protect the Low Voltage Cutoff board, it can’t handle the full load. You could skip adding a LVC board and relay, but you would need a digital voltmeter to keep an eye on the voltage
The LED screen on the low voltage cutoff drains my battery if I forget to disconnect it from the car. SOS
Great comment. Yes, brands like Power Wheels and Peg Perego do not have on/off switch. It’s best practice to always disconnect the battery after use, even on 6v, 12v or 18 volts
Put the whole system on an ON/OFF switch.
What is the relay doing in all this?
It’s taking the load draw so that it doesn’t have to run through the LVC board
Does this low voltage board store the settings? I have a few ride on toys that are running drill batteries, some for years without an issue, but going deeper down the rabbit hole lead me to realize how wrong I have been doing it. Right now, my kids will just hot swap the batteries when one is dead. If they pull the battery wont the board reset? I know I wouldn't have the issue if I left the battery in the toy and recharged it there (not ideal), or If I ran 2 batteries the board would have power as I swapped them one at a time.
Unfortunately, I’m pretty sure these boards do “reset” when power is disconnected, meaning it’s up to the child to reset it if they swap out batteries. I’ve switched to mainly using a digital voltage gauge on the dashboard to monitor the voltage, then swap out as needed
@@DadHacks can you link which one you are using? And by this do you mean rather having a cut-off board, you just now have a voltage reading aka A "gas" gauge and when you start to reach the safe "empty" zone, you stop and swap? I'm getting ready to do two conversions for my boys and there's no way they are going to set the cut off switch every time they ride if the voltage board doesn't retain it's settings but if I give them a digital "gas" tank with a number to not go below, I'm pretty sure they would remember it's time for a pit stop.
Yup, I use the digital voltage gauge as a “gas” tank for the battery. Funny enough, there is usually a gas tank sticker that I install the voltage meter over. Here’s the link to one I’ve used. If you have questions wiring it up, just let me know. I usually run it down to 16.0 volts, that leaves some room if we need to drive back to the garage. a.co/d/hHXyBBr
@@DadHacks thanks so much for quick reply. Yes, need help on how to wire in and where in the chain does this go? I see that it only has two connectors so how would I add this to chain? Right now my plan was not to use a terminal block - I was going to go Battery-voltage cutoff- speed control-motor. Would I need a terminal block if I went just meter reader?
You won’t need a terminal block, but you will need to split each line (positive and negative). From the battery, you could wire into this splitter (for example positive 1 wire in, 2 positive wires out). a.co/d/ismrZ8z . One of the 2 out lines would go to the volt meter and the other would run to the “in” of your speed controller. Then the “out” of the speed controller would run to the car. The wire size from the battery, to the speed controller and then to the car should be 12 AWG. You can use a 16 AWG wire for the volt meter
Will all this modification make the car faster atm the factory car max speed is 2.5km is very slow how mutch faster if you run a 24v battery and what if you run 2x 24v batteries how mutch faster will the car run? Does anyone know? Do you also have to modify other things to run 48v?
Yes, it will make it faster, 18 volts should make it go about 7mph. 18 volt or 20 volts is really the max voltage you want to push a power wheels. You may have seen some stock 24 volt cars, but the gear ratio on those don't make them any faster, they only provide more torque (to go up hills better). You can do a 24 volt setup IF you use a ESC (electronic speed controller) and a variable speed pedal, otherwise you will rip your plastic gears apart with a sudden jerky starts and stops. You can search my other videos for the ESC setup
@DadHacks I truly want to thank you for your honest opinion. If car don't get any faster using 24v is no point investing in esc and pedal. I will be using your video to install and 18v soon as some other parts arrive. Once again thank you
@albaniansuperiorshqipetari8055 Using 24 volts on a 12 stock setup will get you more speed. It’s the stock 24 volt that won’t get you more speed over a stock 12 volt setup. The stock 24 volt gives you about the same speed, but more torque
@DadHacks perfect I will use a 24v on a 12v stock setup then. Thank you I really appreciate your advice. God Bless you and your Family
How can I get ahold of you? I got some questions on why I can’t the speed to go up after installing 3 Pcs Power Battery Adapter Converter Kit Includes Motor Speed Controller with Switch Battery Power Adapter Low Voltage Protection 40a Fuse for 18V 20V Batteries DIY Display Toys Robots Cars. Need some help.
You can email me at GoGoPoweredWheels@gmail.com , Include links to the stuff you bought and the type of car you have.
You really need to move your fuses to before the bus bar. It's not safe the way it's currently set up.
Agree. The best place for the fuse is right off the battery
I’m going to put one before the bus bar and one before the relay too
You really just need 1 before the bus bar
what relay model did you use?
You can use a 24 volt / 40 amp 4 pin relay. a.co/d/7OmMpjw
thanks really helpful@@DadHacks . im trying to wire up a 24v, 4 motor 4x4 power wheels, with a speed controller, low voltage cut off and ryobi battery adaptor.
My fuse keeps blowing. I'm running it with one battery. Any ideas?
What size wiring are you using? Ideally, you want around 12 AWG
@@DadHacks I used 12 all the way through
Is it happening on pavement or just when they drive on the grass?
@@DadHacks always
@@TRISTOM307 typically, how long does it run before the fuse blows?
How long would this run before dead?
Between 30 to 45 minutes. Some factors that effect run time are the driving surface (pavement vs grass) and the weight of the car and driver
Can this Setup Be Done in Series?
Yes, you could wire the batteries in series, But when you start to push 24volts or more through a Power Wheels, you start to have more problems. Gearboxes tend to be the first thing to break, because the plastic gears can’t handle the heat. Also, the wiring might not be large enough to handle the heat
@@DadHacks Yes I Plan to Get the 775 Gearboxes with the Metal Gear?
@@kirbycollins3223 the metal will definitely help. Here’s my “please subscribe” pitch; I’m working on a video on how to add a ESC (electric speed controller) and variable speed pedal. The ESC is ideal when running 24+ volts because it causes less stress on the gears and functions like a real gas pedal
Thanks for the video! Any chance you know where I can find a schematic for 2 12v batteries in series with the low voltage cut off? We have a 24v Grave Digger with Banebot motors but the batteries are shot. I brought some milwaukee battery adapters & hooked them up but smoked the low voltage cut off in a matter of seconds. Definitely need a diagram to do it correctly if you know where I can find 1.
@@ahlers1977 use the diagram at 5:22 in the video, but for the batteries, the + of one battery and the - of the other connect and then the other + and - run to the terminal strip...
FYI, it’s a lot easier if you use the Sealed Lead Acid batteries, you don’t need a Low Voltage Cutoff for those and the time run is better than drill batteries
Nice. Where did you get the cutoff board?
Amazon. For $3 more, you can get the 2 pack. Here’s the link: www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNXM4LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q074VT8JK6J38SD53X2H
cool!
not just shorten the life of the batteries but fire risk because the chemistry becomes unstable and could start fires.
some lithium chemistries can handle it better to really be safe you should go with lifepo4 witch you will simply ruin the cells and they may not last as long.
i think this could one of the reasons why hoverboard batteries was catching fire besides shoddy cells, bad welds and shoddy charging systems.
and now ebike batteries are catching fire it has been all over the news and youtube news.
👍🇲🇦
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