Making a Speed Handle For The Milling Machine Vise
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- Опубліковано 17 чер 2024
- G'day everyone,
In this video I will be making a new handle for the milling machine vise. I have found the handle that the vide comes with to be quite awkward to use as it is quite oversized for the mill and vise size, too heavy and difficult to use to quickly move the vise jaws.
A good solution is a speed handle, of which there are many different styles. The speed handle style that I went with is a classic style 3 lever design. It is angled as to not interfere with the mill's hand wheels. I hope you enjoy the video.
#DIY #millingmachine #machining
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
0:53 - Machining the Socket
2:34 - Machining the Central Hub for a Press Fit
3:54 - Removing The Rust
4:14 - Cutting a Chamfer on to the Part
5:15 - Machining a temporary Angle Block
5:55 - Drilling the Angled Holes
7:00 - Making The Handles
8:38 - Welding...
9:28 - Turning Ball Ends for the Handles
12:39 - Testing and Final Thoughts
Mill - Sieg x2.7l
Lathe - Sieg C3 7x14 Mini Metal Lathe - Наука та технологія
Glad it is 12mm and not 10mm. Your handle would have disappeared the second you were finished with it. 😀
I have a body shop, loose them all the time. I guess they wind up in the car or under the hood.
I got 99 sockets, but a 10 mill' ain't one
It’s just not an Artisan Makes video until we see the hacksawing!
I think that I would have gone for a hexagon-socket. But other than that: nice project 👍🏼!
You upgraded my day with this upload, thank you
Good to hear it is clear of the handwheels! I have thought about this for my mill, but handwheel clearance is my main concern, as I like to leave my vice handle on. (No where handy to rest it)
Nicely done!
Good job 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. Be safe 🇨🇦
Fantastic job.
Excellent work
That ball turner tool does a great job.
Nice ball turning!👍👍👍👍
This dude is so cool!
I had 1 of those lever handles, and it drove me nuts. I made a handwheel, which I really love.
Good one mate!!!👍👍👍👍
If you feel like making the handle feel a lot more snug I'd suggest using a ball bearing detent or 2 and all of it will feel more comfortable
drill into the side of the handle
Use a ball end cutter to Partially penetrate the side wall of the socket but no go all the way through - make sure a lip is left
Find a ball bearing the same size as your ball nose cutter, this will seat against the lip we left earlier
Thread the top of the hole - create a grub screw to enter the thread
Now all you need is a spring to finish up
The grub screw will retain the spring and ball bearing under tension against the lip left by the ball nose cutter - you can tighten down the grub to adjust detent force and you now have a spring loaded detent to remove any slop in how the handle feels
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Great job mate 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
All the comments of people recommending to buy a bandsaw only shows you get a lot of new followers 🤓
Nice work :-)
Gday, nice build mate, Cheers
Good video. Thanks.
Everyone has ideas about this and having made a couple of these I will throw in my "two cents" worth, because .... UA-cam is where we learn, and hopefully you will one day get some bigger machines and do this all again. But first you really need a BANDSAW! LOL.
I chose to use a larger hub and thread the handles into it. Looks better and you can remove them if you need to do what I did: Make them long as you did, and then if you need to, cut them down. I cut mine down twice, till I got them at a length that I liked. Too long and you might over-tighten your vice. It is possible to break the import cast iron. A set screw can back up the press fit. A second one can fix it to the vice screw or use a hitch pin. Before doing that I knocked the handle off onto the floor dozens of times. You also may not need to cut down the socket if you use the large portion for the press fit. If you use a "Deep" socket, they don't usually have a reduced portion.
Regards
I'd maybe drill / tap a hole, where the socket and hub meet, then run a setscrew down it to lock it in place. Gently hammered in place press-fits, especially where one side has a hard chrome plating and mirror finish, aren't going to have a lot of friction and will spin fairly easily, but time will tell. The knobs came out great though
I wonder how much force the press fit will hold up to. Don’t you need to tighten stuff harder sometimes?
I would have made a really tight press fit and freezed that nut / heated the outer part to press it in. Or even welded it. Or do you think that would be way overengineered?
A fair point but if it ever becomes a problem he has 2 easy options
1. another cheap socket sized a few thou bigger on the OD
2. A strong retaining fluid like loctite 638
3 tack it with the welder or braze it.
Good thing to point out but it won't be an issue. When I drilled the 3 holes.for the handles I drilled into the socket too, the handles once seated are locking the socket thin place. As such once it gets soldered some solder will flow down into the join at the bottom of the hole for a bit of extra strength. Cheers
@@artisanmakes nice ✌️😎
“I finished it off with the hacksaw”. Of course you did buddy.
My dude, someone should get you an angle grinder for christmas. All the things you could do with that!
He does have an angle Grinder, he just rarely uses it.
you need to make a thread cutter holder that sits in the drill holder and can be turned with a ratchet :) always centered and perfect threads. if you complete it i will buy it :D
Well done, I think one handle would have been enough maybe. 😁😁
One handle and only about 1/2 as long.
can you please make a video covering the formal engineering training you have received, what was good what was bad, etc
have you ever considered just karate chopping your stock to length like This Old Tony? Seems way faster than a hack saw.
When he was starting one of the cuts with a triangular file, I thought he was going to snap it like glass tubing, I was a bit disappointed when he switched to the hacksaw.
my lathe is doing great, with your ac motor mod. No more nest of wires and motherboards. May buy long bed from little machine shop.
Glad to hear it. Cheers
quick tip for drilling:
you should only pre drill past about 10mm drillsize and when you do use a drill that has about the same diameter as the 'soul' of the big drill( this is the inner part of the drill where there are no flutes yet). Its always tempting to predrill bigger holes but in end it will only cause the dril to chatter
Usually, but on small machinery like this you don't usually have much of a choice when it comes to drilling large holes. The machinery just isn't powerful enough sometimes to do the optimal methods, so you gotta make some concessions. And for the most part, the low rpm kept the chatter to a minimum. Cheers
yeah makes sense, love your vids!
i hope you get a drop bandsaw in the future, having to cut all the stock material with hacksaw.... oooof
Really enjoyed going through your videos this weekend... thanks for the effort. I’m looking to order some metal to make my own speed handle - already watched your clip on ‘where to by in Aus’ which was a great help. Just wondering what steel/metal I should be using for the hub & the columns? (Already decided on brass for the knobs). What kind of steel exactly did you use? I heard you mention it’s a machining, non leaded steel, but I’m new to this, not sure what that is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Nickolas
I’d just buy some 1020 bright mild steel. Weld up great and machines nicer than hot rolled steel
Artisan have a HUGES question
Does your mill have column flex when using a facemill as I get flex on my mill but is the similar to the RF45 mill but just one of those clones
And my facemill is a 3 tip brazed carbide
I enjoy your projects, but I wish you would get something better than a hacksaw to cut your parts. If I were you, that would be the number one machine on my list to buy.
I guess you are the best guy to ask, with as much as you do. What kind of hack saw blade are you using? And I like starting out the cut with a three sided file, great idea!
Maybe Lennox? We use them at work...
I use Sutton's all hard HSS 18 tpi blades. Slightly more expensive than the bi metal ones but certainly worth it. I used to use the cobalt ones but they are too brittle for general work.
Why not thread the shafts into the socket holder?
Because he didn't think of that before he bashed that socket in there.
I was wondering , since your socket was a press fit, is there a chance the socket will rotate when tightening the vise?
Good thing to point out but it won't be an issue. When I drilled the 3 holes.for the handles I drilled into the socket too, the handles once seated are locking the socket thin place. As such once it gets soldered some solder will flow down into the join at the bottom of the hole for a bit of extra strength. Cheers
If you removed that step from the back of the socket and pushed the socket all the way to the front of the 40mm block you might have got more engagement and the spin handles won't cause as much of a turning moment to pull it off the vice. My solution was to resort to a ring spanner that has served me well for the last 18months.
You can, but you would also have to make the the base hub about 4-5mm smaller as it would run into the flange at the base of the vise, its not a great angle but you can kind of see it at 3:52. Personally I like having the sort of back stop of the socket, and seems to work fine, but its always going to be up to personal preference when it comes to these little details. Cheers
I feel like you could have used a reamer for the finishing operation so you do t have to weld it so it’s a snug fit. Then you are within 1 or 2 thau
3/8" AF sockets go the way of 10mm also. It's nature's way..
Тоже не хватает жесткости токарного станка... (
Nice video!
10:48 What is the technical name of that particular/exact tool?
He made it himself
It's a ball cutter or radius cutter that he made. There is many different forms of it.
nice project, why didnt you go 120 degree to make your patern symetrical ???
I did
Holy crap, right out the gate with hardmilling that socket with a parting tool. Yeah, I too enjoy waking up and eating a heaping bowl of caltrops for breakfast. Wow.
1:48 what a cheap excuse to give us what we really need from this channel… 😅😘
why don't you weld the hanfles and prefer to braze?
Free machining steel, which I made the base from will cause issues and cracking with most welds due to the lead/sulfur content, thus brazing is a much better method, though I dont have MAPP/ oxy to braze with.
honestly what do you machine besides machine parts
Made one of these couple years ago, tapped and threaded holes in piece you welded on, just hard for us to leave something not completely done 😑
Awesome, I would have threaded too but this low. grade mild steel is.a bit weak for threading. Cheers
@@artisanmakes our material was low grade too, holes up like 4140 as far as we're concerned, just drill, tap and thread lock it and it will be good as gold!
Not a sign of a quality socket if you could finish cutting it off with the hacksaw! Probably perfect for the use you are putting it to though!
To be fair to it, it was a cobalt blade and it was quite tough to get through :)
What is the spray lube?
It's a lanolin based cutting oil
@@artisanmakes Is there a brand name and what are the advantages over other lubes? Is it specifically for certain types of metals?
Have you considered this design for a handle? On one hand you have to switch holes for speed or leverage but it takes less space. ua-cam.com/video/tUJbz9Ih13Y/v-deo.html
I tried this handle and it didnt work for me because it was hitting the handwheel for Y axis because my vice is set far back to maximize working space.
For me, nothing will work as good as original wobbly handle.
I have nearly identical mill by the way.
Sorry to hear that. My speed handle has greatly improved my time with the mill vise and is a great addition to the workshop. I do have quite a steep angle on my handles to avoid hitting the handwheels though. Cheers
i'm here
And ABSOLUTELY NOBODY cares.
A 5$ socket is amazing considering harbor freight sells sets for 8$ lol
Sets of the finest Chinesium. He's probably talking NZ dollars though, so around $3 US?
@@ferrumignis still could get you a set on sale lol
when are you going to buy a power hacksaw ?
balls of steel
That hacksawing is getting painful to watch. You need a band saw!!
no
Bandsaws are for pussies.
Why would you braise weld the handles in why would you not TIG weld them
I don't have a tig welder, and the bigger issue is that this is a free machining steel which not good for welding due the the alloying metals used.
@@artisanmakes I got you I don't need to tell you what to do but for me in that case I would have made the hub a bit larger and threaded both ends but anyway I like your videos I will continue to watch them and I've learned a lot from you thank you very much
@@ray8916 No worries, best part about DIY is you get to do it differently for what suits. This style best suits me and the vise, and the materials I have on hand. Cheers
И да, пора уже купить ленточноотрезной станок... пилить руками мучение ещё то!
Milling away the whole corner of that block... there's this thing called a hacksaw for cutting off large chunks of metal, maybe you have heard of it?
Right, this video is just a way to show you make the balls.
Welding spoiled the appearance. Enough thread lock.
Threads would be a bit weak to use on this low grade mild steel rod. It really doesn't bother me, but you can always do different if you choose to make one yourself. Cheers
EDIT: In any case, the tacks are temporary until I can get them brazed in.
In such cases, I use loctite and it does not allow the thread to unscrew
dont cut metal by hand!
Yet you type dumb comments by hand?
10 commercial breaks in a 13 minute video is a wee bit excessive, specially since many of them were over 2 minutes... is that you or UA-cam?
Yeah that certainly seems like a lot and is pretty surprising. I don't have much control over ads, that's all done by UA-cam. Cheers