Clint, maybe you or Mark can answer this, how did you manage the iBr delete? Is it done in software, or are you just plugging in the iBr lever sensor and leaving it alone (so the ski is just always in forwards). I'm working with the same year SeaDoo setup, and haven't decided on whether or not to try to incorporate iBr or just get rid of it now. Edit: Just watched your most recent boat video, where you get the OTAS module error on the dash. I'd be interested to see your solution!
Hey man! So I did leave the IBR reverse lever plugged in behind the dash because it would be a world of work to build actuators and a new housing for the IBR module on the back of the boat. It definitely can be done but my personal preference was to have a mechanical reverse lever on the side of the boat! I was able to delete the IBR code with my Riva tuner so I didn’t run into any issue after that was done.
Realistically, what’s a rough price range of what it cost to build one of these things? I’ve been dying to own one for a few years now. I just wanna get an idea of what it’s gonna take/where money can be saved
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply! Oh k.. That's really a hard question to answer because it's really such a massive range. It really all depends on the size of the hull (the jump from a 10/12ft boat to a 14ft is fairly substantial) if you're paying someone to build it for you, if you're building it yourself, and if you are building it yourself how far you want to go as far as what you put in it as far as options/power plant. Shoot me a quick rundown of the kind of boat you were looking at and I'll gladly shoot you some info on what I think the best way to go about getting that done would be!!
@@ClintLewing I’m thinking my perfect boat would be a 12 foot 4 seater with a little swim deck and a full windshield. A jet stream buccaneer or very similar to one. Probably 200+hp. I feel like prices are all over the place from different companies and some charging $60k+ (which is ridiculous). I feel like I’d pay someone to weld the kit most likely but would consider doing it myself if price was through the roof. Just wanna hear from someone like you who’s actually gone through the process to see if it’s worth building and how much it could be done for. I don’t know maybe it would be better to buy one already done🤷♂️
Well if you check back in my other videos you'll see what can happen when you decide to go with a "boat builder" that had no idea what they were doing.. 🙄 Haha so definitely make sure you know they have a good name behind them! Honestly though, the amount of hours that go into these boats are what makes them $60K plus. Mine is coming on a year now since the build began. But with that said, I have seen 2 seater turn key boats in the US for 30-45K USD. Best place I'd start to look is "Mini JetBoat Classified's" group on Facebook. There are a ton going up for sale there all over Canada & the US. For the fully welded hull of a 12-14ft 4 seater with a double rear seat/engine cover you're still going to be looking at around 20K. The full windshield with a centre open & lexan was a $5000 option with the first builder I had who welded my hull. That's primarily why I went with the walk over windshield along with the fact that because of how it slopes backwards into the boat you actually lose a lot of standing space inside of the boat itself. BUT if you're willing to wait for one more season.. I actually have a good friend of mine (same welder who's helping me finish my boat) and he'll be selling his 12 buccaneer that he's currently building now.@@robbymaloney
@@ClintLewing I have such a hard time justifying a 12 foot boat for that price when a 20ft jet boat is the same price. But the minis are way too cool😭 but trust me I’m scouring marketplace and the Facebook groups every day😂 I’ll be getting a new job next year and hoping to be able to pull the trigger then. Reason I’m looking at the walkthrough windshield is because I’d want to use it to get to some hard to reach fishing spots. But it might be better to just step over the normal windshield rather than spending all that extra money on a walk through. Thanks for the responses man! Really hope I’ll have my own soon!
Totally feel you there@@robbymaloney One thing to consider is that you do lose a lot of space inside the hull with a high windshield. Not really able to stand up in the front seats without having to lean way back. Hull design of the JetStream gives you more space inside the hull but much less of a bow. I wanted to be able to lay out on the bow and that lengthened bow on the RSR also lends to a lot less spray coming your way which is how I got away with the short windshield. I love the boys at JetStream and they make incredible stuff, personally I just prefer the hull design of the RSR in the end.
I do have the reverse lever set up now but I’m currently still using the reverse bucket from the RXPX I got pulled the engine from. So with the reverse bucket down the water primarily shoots back against the transom so reverse is fairly slow. Wattscraft did design a reverse bucket with a better nozzle (I’ll attach the link for ya) that shoots the water below the boat so as soon as I get that one swapped out it’s going to be a world of difference for braking & reverse! minijet.ca/shop/universal-reverse-bucket/?v=3e8d115eb4b3
Clint, maybe you or Mark can answer this, how did you manage the iBr delete? Is it done in software, or are you just plugging in the iBr lever sensor and leaving it alone (so the ski is just always in forwards). I'm working with the same year SeaDoo setup, and haven't decided on whether or not to try to incorporate iBr or just get rid of it now.
Edit: Just watched your most recent boat video, where you get the OTAS module error on the dash. I'd be interested to see your solution!
Hey man! So I did leave the IBR reverse lever plugged in behind the dash because it would be a world of work to build actuators and a new housing for the IBR module on the back of the boat. It definitely can be done but my personal preference was to have a mechanical reverse lever on the side of the boat! I was able to delete the IBR code with my Riva tuner so I didn’t run into any issue after that was done.
OTAS sensor code lit up because there ended up being a fault in the sensor I had. Simply had to replace the sensor and problem was fixed!
Realistically, what’s a rough price range of what it cost to build one of these things? I’ve been dying to own one for a few years now. I just wanna get an idea of what it’s gonna take/where money can be saved
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply! Oh k.. That's really a hard question to answer because it's really such a massive range. It really all depends on the size of the hull (the jump from a 10/12ft boat to a 14ft is fairly substantial) if you're paying someone to build it for you, if you're building it yourself, and if you are building it yourself how far you want to go as far as what you put in it as far as options/power plant. Shoot me a quick rundown of the kind of boat you were looking at and I'll gladly shoot you some info on what I think the best way to go about getting that done would be!!
@@ClintLewing I’m thinking my perfect boat would be a 12 foot 4 seater with a little swim deck and a full windshield. A jet stream buccaneer or very similar to one. Probably 200+hp. I feel like prices are all over the place from different companies and some charging $60k+ (which is ridiculous). I feel like I’d pay someone to weld the kit most likely but would consider doing it myself if price was through the roof. Just wanna hear from someone like you who’s actually gone through the process to see if it’s worth building and how much it could be done for. I don’t know maybe it would be better to buy one already done🤷♂️
Well if you check back in my other videos you'll see what can happen when you decide to go with a "boat builder" that had no idea what they were doing.. 🙄 Haha so definitely make sure you know they have a good name behind them! Honestly though, the amount of hours that go into these boats are what makes them $60K plus. Mine is coming on a year now since the build began. But with that said, I have seen 2 seater turn key boats in the US for 30-45K USD. Best place I'd start to look is "Mini JetBoat Classified's" group on Facebook. There are a ton going up for sale there all over Canada & the US. For the fully welded hull of a 12-14ft 4 seater with a double rear seat/engine cover you're still going to be looking at around 20K. The full windshield with a centre open & lexan was a $5000 option with the first builder I had who welded my hull. That's primarily why I went with the walk over windshield along with the fact that because of how it slopes backwards into the boat you actually lose a lot of standing space inside of the boat itself. BUT if you're willing to wait for one more season.. I actually have a good friend of mine (same welder who's helping me finish my boat) and he'll be selling his 12 buccaneer that he's currently building now.@@robbymaloney
@@ClintLewing I have such a hard time justifying a 12 foot boat for that price when a 20ft jet boat is the same price. But the minis are way too cool😭 but trust me I’m scouring marketplace and the Facebook groups every day😂 I’ll be getting a new job next year and hoping to be able to pull the trigger then. Reason I’m looking at the walkthrough windshield is because I’d want to use it to get to some hard to reach fishing spots. But it might be better to just step over the normal windshield rather than spending all that extra money on a walk through. Thanks for the responses man! Really hope I’ll have my own soon!
Totally feel you there@@robbymaloney One thing to consider is that you do lose a lot of space inside the hull with a high windshield. Not really able to stand up in the front seats without having to lean way back. Hull design of the JetStream gives you more space inside the hull but much less of a bow. I wanted to be able to lay out on the bow and that lengthened bow on the RSR also lends to a lot less spray coming your way which is how I got away with the short windshield. I love the boys at JetStream and they make incredible stuff, personally I just prefer the hull design of the RSR in the end.
Does the boat go in reverse?
I do have the reverse lever set up now but I’m currently still using the reverse bucket from the RXPX I got pulled the engine from. So with the reverse bucket down the water primarily shoots back against the transom so reverse is fairly slow. Wattscraft did design a reverse bucket with a better nozzle (I’ll attach the link for ya) that shoots the water below the boat so as soon as I get that one swapped out it’s going to be a world of difference for braking & reverse!
minijet.ca/shop/universal-reverse-bucket/?v=3e8d115eb4b3