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Why we chose ARP HEAD STUDS vs HEAD BOLTS for our Land Rover Discovery 1
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2021
- We had to chose betwen arp head studs and head bolts when it came time to replace the head gaskets in our 1998 Land Rover Discovery 1. We went with the head studs because we felt they were unequivicaly the better choice, even though they were significantly more expensive. Watch the video to find out why we chose them and let us know what you think in the comments.
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Hey man! (Guy who commented on the o rings for the transmission cooler line video)
I wish you could see my truck! It’s a 99 D1 I bought a few months before you first started the discovery series. I’ve done everything you have had to do, and more. I bought it in not running condition. Since all the repairs I’ve driven it almost 10k miles, from San Francisco, all the way down Baja, into desserts, mountains, and everything in between. Even attempted the Rubicon in the snow (got stuck for HOURS). Anyway. Your videos are great. Very helpful. Wish I had used the ARP studs instead of the bolts!!! Thanks man!
Sounds like you definitely embody what this channel is all about, good for you! We’d love to see your rig! If you’re on Instagram, tag us in a post or story, @2ndHandOverland!
The problem you have with your engine is there are m&m's in your head bolt holes, whereas the original British spec calls for Smarties.
I was literally gonna write a joke about how we bought some Smarties, but I crushed them all up and snorted them before we could film... then I hit up Wikipedia and realized Smarties are another one of those chips/fries, crisps/chips kinda things where two completely different things have the same name depending which side of the pond you’re standing on! British Smarties look delicious... American Smarties... well let’s just say they weren’t the first thing I’d eat outta my trick or treating haul as a child!
Just found this channel. This is a great explanation, and gave me some information I'd never have thought of otherwise.
Also, I might have to get a Land Rover.
Thank you! I never imagined we’d have one, but I’m really glad we took the chance!
Just found this channel. Good stuff! The models you were using with the M&M’s and gummy worms were both funny, and very helpful.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching and commenting. I wasn’t sure how the props would go over, but I really wanted to try to explain this in a way a non-gear head would understand.
Excellent Explanation, subscribing.
Very interesting video on something people don't usually think about, and I loved the high-tech bolt graphics.
Wow...great video. Love the detailed explanation !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Aluminum is too soft to twist a bolt in for high torque clamping. Land Rover or not. I invested in the ARP studs, too. I like the props for explanation.
Thanks!
I did exactly that on my 4.0v8 Discovery 2 best decision ever
Agreed!
There was another good reason besides simple costs for using torque to yield bolts, and that was because it obviated the need to have the dealer re-torque the heads down at the first service (or thereabouts). Maybe with modern gasket materials it's no longer necessary, but for me when putting replacing a head with studs it used to be normal to revisit it after perhaps 500 or 1,000 miles and re-torque it to make sure.
With torque to yield bolts, there's the head tended to be held down with even tension throughout the "stretch" area.
There is no problem with applying even torque in a modern car engine factory these days. There are plenty of other places besides the heads where that's necessary and, outside those where engines are hand assembled, it's going to be done using automatic machinery that are programmed and even log the torque settings. I can't imagine that studs cost the manufacturers more than a tiny fraction of those retail prices and even fitting them would surely be pennies. What manufacturers care about is not having warranty costs.
Another thing to consider is that a torque wrench isn't actually measuring the bolt (or stud) tension. It's measuring the resistance to turning the nut (or bolt head) and that involves friction between the nut/bolt head plus in the the threads and whatever washers and lubrication that's been applied to the components.
That's not to say studs aren't better when installed with care, but they may be less suited to mass production.
(there was another potential problem with studs an alloy heads, and that was studs corroding in the heads too).
Really good info!
Thank you! We're glad you enjoyed it and thank you for taking the time to comment!
Phew! Good info!
Well you could have made this awesomely informative video 6 years ago when I did my top end... thanks.
Sorry bout that, I definitely wish I woulda started on this UA-cam thing back then too!
couldnt ask for a better explanation
Two things; great explanation and now I want to use studs going forward, and how can I learn to talk that long between breaths?
Thanks, I’m glad you found it informative. As for the talking, I watched a lot of Micro Machines commercials when I was a kid, lol. In all honesty, it’s mostly just the magic of editing.
Smart choice, and good analysis of the reasons why.
Thanks!
Hiya, agree completely about studs. I remember visiting the factory and watching the way the Rover V8 was assembled and thinking ‘wow that was quick’. As you say manufacturing is quicker with stretch bolts. Another advantage that can be had with studs (particularly for the bottom end) is that the un-machined shaft helps to locate the parts better and can stop fretting and eventual failure.
Keep up the exploring and great vids :-)
Thanks Gavin! Glad you enjoyed it and I appreciate the insight! I’ll bet that was quite the sight watching them out these things together!
@@MattKester I have a now defunct 2nd gen Range Rover (P38) which has the old TDS BMW 2.5litre 6 cyl diesel. The head has cracked and parts are really expensive. But relative to the studs vs bolts, the BMW head bolt process makes the Rover V8 seem ordinary! The BMW procedure is tighten to torque spec in certain order, then 1/4 turn, then back off and re-torque. Then you have to do a full engine heat cycle from cold to hot back to full cold (full day), another 1/4 turn, back off and retorque. Bolts are all one use only as with the newer Rover V8.
What torque setting did you use
Great video and I learnt a lot!
Are there any further engine videos coming up? One thing I’d love to see is the main bearings being changed while the engine is still in place. I believe it’s OK to do but haven’t seen a video out there for this model of engine.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. We don't have anything specific to engines in the pipeline as we don't have any current issues outside the ones we just finished tackling up. I will be troubleshooting the AC at some point really soon, and I have an accessory or two to install coming up soon. If we do end up needing to replace the main bearings, we'll definitely try to do it ourselves and in-frame, if possible. I know it's not a Land Rover, but here's a link to DeBoss Garage doing them on a John Deere Tractor while the engine is in frame. ua-cam.com/video/DSZiRBYgBNc/v-deo.html
Cheers! Handy link to the bearing video.
The only tricky things I can see with that job on our engines is the rear main cap where you have to consider the rear main seal and those crucifix oil seals and the centre bearing with the thrust washers. Thanks again 😊
Fed. Well done on the ARP head studs ! Have a look at 'Endless Air System' here Downunder which I've fitted to the Rangie to inflate tires and run air tools, etc. ? V.
Jolly good show old chap! 😁 Love your tutorial aids you made. Studs are also easier to replace if you have damaged only one, as you can just replace the damaged one.
On any motor with aluminum components you HAVE TO fun a 96% glycol anti freeze mixed to at least a 50-50% ratio and use the same mixture for top ups. Also run an extra earth strap directly from the motor to the negative side of the battery.
Great content, keep it up!!! 👆👆💪💪👍👍
Thank you! I hear you on getting that anti-freeze right! It's surprising how many people you run across that don't get that one right! I did end up running a ground lead to the battery when I put it all back together, after spending a couple hours trying to figure out where the one on the back side of the port cylinder head went to when I took it apart the first time. Been going like a champ ever since!
Is this also the same reason my Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk has lug BOLTS instead of lug nuts? Cuz ugh…
You do in fact have to torque you heads bolts/studs
Where is headband?
Dog ate it!
comment 27 showing, u sold Me, far better system to use, every aluminum block & head should go this route, but steel can stat old style.
Do you have an Instagram
Yes, it's @FrugalExplorerDad. The channel has an Instagram account as well, @2ndHandOverland